Alternatively.....take a short piece of webbing and make a loop, trapping the ends of the loop onto the end cap with a jubilee clip.  Sit down in the cockpit with a beer. Put the loop over a cleat on the mizzen mast and give the tube a sharp tug.  Bingo! (  only two hands needed and you don't get wet ! )

Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 Greece

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From: amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners@...> on behalf of michael winand mfw642000@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: 23 August 2018 06:21:08
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Easy and novel way to remove membrane end caps.

 

Nice method 

Michael 

Sent from Yahoo7 Mail on Android

On Thu, 23 Aug 2018 at 12:46, eric kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]

<amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Once you have the membrane assembly apart disconnect the membranes from each other. Put a 1/2 inch tubing over the hose nipple with a hose clamp. This is connected to a water supply, dock or boat water, turn on the water. Let the air escape and then put your finger over the hole where the water is escaping. 

Hold the hole closed with your finger. As the water pressurizes the vessel  the end caps will slide out due to water pressure . Just hold the loosest end cap  in place until the second one comes out.

Easiest way yet to remove the end caps. 3 hands is helpful.

Oh don't forget new O rings.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Sm 376 Kimberlite

On Wed, Aug 22, 2018 at 05:33 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... 

 

Hello!

I have installed the Raymarine ACU 400 Auto Pilot together with new Raymarine instruments, I use my old Autohelm AP electronics as back up. I kept the old drive units, so only the electronic part is new.

I did expect better performance from the new system even though I was rather happy with the old system.

The new system works OK going up wind can't say it is better than the old system.

The problem is down wind the new is inferior to the old system. I assume it is a trimming but it is rather awkward to adjust as one need waves and high wind but if you have that you can't have the AP in Auto but it must be in stand by to adjust settings that are rather fare down the menu, not very user friendly.

When going down wind the course is not very straight on the contrary one has to gard it very carefully and sometimes take over and do manual steering, which i have not needed to do with the old electronics, with the old we have sailed down wind with 40 knots apparent wind so true has been close to 48 knots and the course has been rather stable. even with rather large sea.

Now we have problem when wind approaching 20 knots and waves less than 2 meters. 

The setting we have is 

Hard over time 16,5s

Rudder damping 2

Display response 5 for speed and wind, do not now if that influence the AP performance , can't say I'm impressed of the manual who cover tree different AP .

can't say it's a big difference when using Performance, Cruising or Leisure settings for Response level 

Anyone having this system on an Super Maramu, what are your settings? How does it perform for you?

Any advice how to trim the system?

Paul on SY Kerpa AM#259

 

Pat,

The concern I’d have about sitting in a typical pedestal seat is not rough seas, but rather heeling. There are many very comfortable helm seat built for high end motor yachts, but they all assume that the boat is basically flat. I have not yet seen a pedestal seat I’d want to sit in when heeled at 15 degrees.

The other issue around a pedestal is structural. The deck in that area might need strengthening to support a single point of attachment of a pedestal. Note for example, the way the nav station seat pedestal is built into the boat.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA