Date   
Re: Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

Ken Powers SV Aquarius
 

The Hot Water Heater also is a Cold Water Heater, and maybe just a Water Heater.  But after the Hot Water Heater heats up the Cold Water,  the Hot Water Heater keeps the Hot Water Hot.  Thus, the term "Hot Water Heater".  :). You see, most of the time, if left on, the unit will be heating Hot Water (this also implies that there is a Thermostat involved).  Only when first powered up will it heat Cold Water.  

Just another point of view......

Ken Powers
SM2K 262

Re: Whole Boat Permanent Inverter for 220VAC 50Hz

Ken Powers SV Aquarius
 

Gary,

The conversion between DC to AC the loss, depending on your inverter, could be as much as 10% to 30%.   Also, if you only have 100amp battery charger, then you are only supplying 2.5KW into your batteries, but with your proposed 4KW inverter you could pull out 1.5KW above the potential charging input while charging your batteries (That is -62Amps).  I would consider that completely unacceptable!  Running your AC units would not be possible more that a few hours, they would just draw down your batteries and you might not be able to keep up the charge.  And another thing, your Genset should be run at full power, which would be at least 6.5 KW.  But giving your 4KW inverter you would only be able to pull 4KW from your Genset.

This might be a better way to go.

When we bought Aquarius she was set up as follows:
1500 watt inverter
Plugs throughout the boat - Supplied by either - Inverter, Shore Power, or Genset
Washer - Shore Power or Inverter
Dishwasher - Shore Power or Inverter
3 Aircon - Shore Power or Inverter or Genset
Microwave - Inverter, Shore Power, or Genset

Since then we have upgraded to a 2.5KW inverter, but we have made no changes to the distribution panel.... YET.  We are just about ready to get LiFePO4 batteries, and we may make the following changes.  

So, if I were you, this is what I would do:

2.5KW - 4KW Inverter (some electronics have large inrush current when starting, 4KW might help them start up without the use of expensive soft start options)

If Genset is running, or we are on Shore Power, the Inverter is turned off.

Plugs throughout the boat - Supplied by either - Inverter, Shore Power, or Genset.
Washer -  You may want to make this Inverter only because the water pumps like 50HZ only. 
Dishwasher -  You may want to make this Inverter only because the water pumps like 50HZ only. 
3 Aircon - Shore Power or Inverter of Genset
Microwave - Inverter, Shore Power, or Genset

Your Washer or Dishwasher only runs for a short amount of time, and can be easily run off your Inverter only.  But supplying your entire boat off the inverter would not be the best way to go.

If you are somewhere that has bad shore power, don't connect your AMEL!

Ken Powers
Currently on Lock Down in Thailand
But today - We can get a foot massage!
SM2K #262











Re: Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

Craig & Katherine Briggs
 

Spot on, Eric! Perhaps not Oxymoronic but at least redundant. However, the adverts do indeed say "Hot Water Heaters" !
Cheers, Craig

Re: Volvo oil pressure - single wire non-isolated switch

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi Ruedi;

 

In order for the sensor to be isolated ground, it needs to have 2 wires, since it cannot use the engine block as ground. If you use the serial number of the engine to order the part, a single wire non-isolated ground sensor will be sent. My understanding, in talking to Amel, is that Volvo ships the standard engine to Volvo France. Volvo France then does the required mods to Amel Specs, one of them being isolated ground. To my surprise, Volvo does not update this information in their data base to match the serial number.

 

Here's the contact information, provided by Amel, and part number that was correct for our engine:

GWEN MARINE Mr Gwenael Rambaud :   gwen@...

Part Number: 863169 Description: CAPTEUR PRESSION

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Rudolf Waldispuehl via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2020 10:20 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo oil pressure - single wire non-isolated switch

 

Hi Mohammad  


I try to understand the issue with the single wire non-isolated pressure switch. I'm interested to buy one of these pressure switches for spare but don’t exactly know how to order. I can find in Internet on official VolvoPenta.com, Marinepartseurope.com or other sites the pressure switch, but I’m not sure I will receive a single wire non-isolated pressure switch.

Can you ore someone from the group please enlighten me on this topic? 


Thanks and best regards

Ruedi 

WASABI A54#55

Re: Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

eric freedman
 

This is one of my favorite expressions—hot water heater---- why would you heat hot water?

It’s a water heater.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2020 7:25 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

 

Hi Steve,
Ah, the classic split and expanded heating element on the old orange isotemp !  I've got the same unit and I think I'm on my 4th occurrence of that problem. Once I struggled to fish out broken heating elements but some stayed inside and corroded pinholes in the tank. I finally extracted them and then sealed the the pinholes with JB Weld - I'm thinking that was about 12 years ago and it's still going strong! My thermostats also failed and I got replacements for cheap - they are really a commodity item. 

Amazing, but it's still going strong. Mine is 110v (on my SN) and Isotemp has long abandoned the product, but I can still google a heating element (it's 1100w versus the original 750W, but no problemo). Will be installing a new one this week, as a matter of fact. I'm now moving the preventive maintenance interval up to about 3 years - just throw out the old element even though it's working.

I'll admit this really qualifies me as a CARB (Cheap Ass Rag Bagger) but I'll be dammed if I'll pay stupid expensive for the new unit if I can nurse the old one along with minor effort every few years!

Cheers, Craig

Re: Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

Craig & Katherine Briggs
 

Hi Steve,
Ah, the classic split and expanded heating element on the old orange isotemp !  I've got the same unit and I think I'm on my 4th occurrence of that problem. Once I struggled to fish out broken heating elements but some stayed inside and corroded pinholes in the tank. I finally extracted them and then sealed the the pinholes with JB Weld - I'm thinking that was about 12 years ago and it's still going strong! My thermostats also failed and I got replacements for cheap - they are really a commodity item. 

Amazing, but it's still going strong. Mine is 110v (on my SN) and Isotemp has long abandoned the product, but I can still google a heating element (it's 1100w versus the original 750W, but no problemo). Will be installing a new one this week, as a matter of fact. I'm now moving the preventive maintenance interval up to about 3 years - just throw out the old element even though it's working.

I'll admit this really qualifies me as a CARB (Cheap Ass Rag Bagger) but I'll be dammed if I'll pay stupid expensive for the new unit if I can nurse the old one along with minor effort every few years!

Cheers, Craig

Re: Whole Boat Permanent Inverter for 220VAC 50Hz

michael winand
 

Gary, we also have the same system as Scott  describes, but are using firefly oases battery. 
Victron also make a isolation transformer that can have duel voltage  input and will adjust the htz .
We really like the Quattro, on the hard now with a 10 amp 240v , I have adjusted the imput current to max 8 amps and the inverter assistance to allow us to run what we need. 
Regards Michael winand  Nebo sm 251


On Sun, 17 May 2020 at 5:29 am, Scott SV Tengah
<Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
Gary,

We faced the same issue you did. I want to make sure we have 220/50 at all times because while I'm very careful and am very unlikely to accidentally run the washing machine/dishwasher/microwave on 60hz shore power, I can't rely on new crew always remembering.

Here's my system, as you may know: Victron Quattro 5000w/24v/120amp charger/inverter, 450AH lithium, Victron Skylla-i 80amp second charger.

Right now, if I find myself with 250v/60hz power, I will plug in, if necessary, to charge the lithiums and then completely unplug. This rarely takes more than 2 hours. My current system is wired so shore power goes to the Quattro first (which replaces the Amel transfer switch, too) and while it charges using the 120amp Quattro charger, it will also passthrough the 60hz power to the boat. That is obviously not ideal. I have confirmed with Victron that there is no way to disable this passthrough when shorepower is detected.

My Skylla-i is wired on the second AC output on the Quattro to avoid running the Skylla charger when the Quattro is acting as an inverter. I did this because 99.99% of the time I'm not in a marina, so I would like to be able to charge using both the Quattro and Skylla (200 amps total) while on genset.

This works great for me as we can run everything on the inverter/batteries. The aft AC will easily run all night on battery. If it's 40c and we need to run multiple AC units, that might be different.

A possible improvement would be to wire a switch somehow so that it's wired as a described above normally but you can flip the switch and have the 60hz shorepower only go to the Skylla when plugged into 60hz shorepower. That way, the skylla feeds 80amps DC to the batteries and the Quattro, not seeing shorepower, would act as an inverter and supply 230/50hz to the boat. 

Note that the Skylla-i will take 60hz, but it must be above 185v. I'm sure you could find a "world capable" 100-250v/50-60hz charger, but we couldn't find one that had high output and was compatible with the BMS, which is absolutely necessary when charging lithiums.

If you don't want to add the second charger and you have a solar MPPT and you won't find yourselves with the 60hz problem often, you could simply get a DC power supply and feed the DC output into your solar MPPT. A 30amp DC power supply can be had for less than $100. Not ideal but works well enough for occasional use. It's also a lot simpler and cheaper.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Zoom Meeting Presentation of the Amel 50 from La Rochelle #ZOOM

David Kurtz
 

Matt & Cindy, thank you for a great meeting.  I happen to think this is an excellent way to stay in touch with the Amel community (I'm a new member as well).  My goal one of these days is to sail into La Rochelle on my Amel after crossing The Atlantic.  And perhaps as a future meeting, a tour of the Amel ship building facility would be really interesting.  And thanks also to Bill and Tilo for putting this together.

Regards,
Dave
--
Dave Kurtz
SM2 #380
S/V Celtic Cross

Detroit, Michigan

Re: Zink Anode for SPURS Line Cutter

Scott SV Tengah
 

Our rudder zincs wear as they should and the spurs zinc wears also.

Given the cost of that Spurs and the minimal cost to buy the additional zinc, I opt to be conservative on this one and keep the line cutter zinc'd.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Upcoming Event: Zoom Meeting Presentation of the Amel 50 from La Rochelle - Sat, 05/16/2020 20:00-21:00, Please RSVP #cal-reminder

main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Calendar <main@...>
 

Reminder: Zoom Meeting Presentation of the Amel 50 from La Rochelle

When: Saturday, 16 May 2020, 20:00 to 21:00, (GMT+00:00) UTC

Where:From La Rochelle, France aboard Amel 50 SPEED OF LIFE

An RSVP is requested. Click here to RSVP

Description:

Group members Matt & Cindy Salatino will present their brand new Amel 50 #27 "Speed of Life" from the Amel pontoon in La Rochelle. Matt and Cindy will give us a virtual tour during this presentation and answer your questions at the end of the presentation. Tilo Peters will administer the ZOOM meeting and I suspect that things will run smoothly and be enjoyed by all attending. If you cannot use ZOOM (highly recommended that you try), Tilo set up a YouTube Live stream: https://youtu.be/Ffks9eEkGG4The YouTube Live stream will likely be a bit off, as it seems to show my control view and not the speaker view that is normally transmitted via Zoom. Tilo will also record our meeting on YouTube which will be available 48-72 hours after the meeting. He will notify you when it is available.
 
   Direct link to Join the 16 May at 20:00 UTC - ZOOM Meeting https://epfl.zoom.us/j/98523568530
   Meeting ID: 985 2356 8530
   Join by SIP 98523568530@...

If you missed our first ZOOM meeting, you can view it on YouTube: https://youtu.be/7Mm1bbL-PaA. The first meeting was a test to understand the process. We did not have an expert guest speaker but we plan to have an expert guest speaker for most future meetings. I am currently working to line up experts for:
   Standing Rigging
   Sails 
   Refrigeration
   And more

Times for participation around the world.

       
Country GMT +/- Scheduled Time Scheduled Date
(GMT) 0 2000 5/16/2020
UK Summer Time 100 2100 5/16/2020
NZ 1200 800 5/17/2020
AU Queensland 1000 600 5/17/2020
Tahiti -1000 1000 5/16/2020
USA West DST -700 1300 5/16/2020
USA East DST -400 1600 5/16/2020
USA Central DST -500 1500 5/16/2020
Martinique -400 1600 5/16/2020
Germany 200 2200 5/16/2020
Central EU Summer Time 200 2200 5/16/2020
Note: The above was checked with: https://greenwichmeantime.com/time-gadgets/time-zone-converter/

Re: Whole Boat Permanent Inverter for 220VAC 50Hz

Scott SV Tengah
 

Gary,

We faced the same issue you did. I want to make sure we have 220/50 at all times because while I'm very careful and am very unlikely to accidentally run the washing machine/dishwasher/microwave on 60hz shore power, I can't rely on new crew always remembering.

Here's my system, as you may know: Victron Quattro 5000w/24v/120amp charger/inverter, 450AH lithium, Victron Skylla-i 80amp second charger.

Right now, if I find myself with 250v/60hz power, I will plug in, if necessary, to charge the lithiums and then completely unplug. This rarely takes more than 2 hours. My current system is wired so shore power goes to the Quattro first (which replaces the Amel transfer switch, too) and while it charges using the 120amp Quattro charger, it will also passthrough the 60hz power to the boat. That is obviously not ideal. I have confirmed with Victron that there is no way to disable this passthrough when shorepower is detected.

My Skylla-i is wired on the second AC output on the Quattro to avoid running the Skylla charger when the Quattro is acting as an inverter. I did this because 99.99% of the time I'm not in a marina, so I would like to be able to charge using both the Quattro and Skylla (200 amps total) while on genset.

This works great for me as we can run everything on the inverter/batteries. The aft AC will easily run all night on battery. If it's 40c and we need to run multiple AC units, that might be different.

A possible improvement would be to wire a switch somehow so that it's wired as a described above normally but you can flip the switch and have the 60hz shorepower only go to the Skylla when plugged into 60hz shorepower. That way, the skylla feeds 80amps DC to the batteries and the Quattro, not seeing shorepower, would act as an inverter and supply 230/50hz to the boat. 

Note that the Skylla-i will take 60hz, but it must be above 185v. I'm sure you could find a "world capable" 100-250v/50-60hz charger, but we couldn't find one that had high output and was compatible with the BMS, which is absolutely necessary when charging lithiums.

If you don't want to add the second charger and you have a solar MPPT and you won't find yourselves with the 60hz problem often, you could simply get a DC power supply and feed the DC output into your solar MPPT. A 30amp DC power supply can be had for less than $100. Not ideal but works well enough for occasional use. It's also a lot simpler and cheaper.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

Stephen Davis
 

Hi Gary,

I tackled the hot water heater project yesterday, and replaced the heating element. The last time I did this job was mid 2014, and that time, the breaker would trip when turned on. I’ll attach a picture of what’s left of the element I removed yesterday. The copper tubing had split and expanded, and it was difficult to remove once it was unscrewed, as it didn’t want to fit through the hole. I ended up breaking off the the threaded end, and then using vise grips on the remaining part to eventually work it out. I was worried it would fall into the tank, but got lucky on that count. FYI...I still have the original hot Isotemp hot water heater with the orange insulation on it. It my be a worlds record for longevity. I suspect the new ones are not as well made as my old dinosaur. Also, I still had my 1 5/8” socket which fits fine on the element. 


I installed my Blue Sea AC multimeter over 5 years ago, and find it to be an invaluable way to find little glitches like this. The heater had a continuous .75 amp draw, and that has gone away with installation of the new element. In the future, I will plan to replace the element at 4 year intervals, which should avoid the mess I had this time. Of course, I’m assuming my original heater will survive that long. I must have confidence in it, as I already ordered a spare element!

Aloha,
Steve
Aloha SM 72
Hawaii, and preparing for Alaska in June

Re: Onan ballbearing check and valves values

Craig & Katherine Briggs
 

Hi Gary,
It's been awhile, but I replaced the rotor bearing on my Northern Lights 6kw genset in situ with little difficulty. The rotor remains bolted to the flywheel as you remove the end with the bearing - no external support needed. I recall I did the old put-it-in-the-freezer trick to shrink the bearing and it slid in with no press needed.  That was at about 3000 hours; now I'm at 7500 and am overdue, so will tackle again soon. (I'm getting a very slight vibration with heavy loads.)
If you want to remove the rotor, as I did because it needed rewinding from salt water corrosion shorting the wires ($176 in La Paz VZ), it's heavy but quite manageable by hand. However it doesn't sound like you'd need to remove it for the 2500 hr. (if I recall correctly) bearing replacement..
Cheers, Craig

Re: SM2K Genoa Jib Cart ANTAL 624.492/C Order pending in the US #replacement #spares #order

Alan Grayson
 

Hi Michael, I would like to get 1 for a spare as well. Please add me to your order. We can work out payment and if we could have you ship it to Texas that would be great.
Regards
Alan Grayson
SM 406 Ora Pai
St Lucia


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Ryan Meador <ryan.d.meador@...>
Sent: Friday, 15 May 2020 9:26 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] SM2K Genoa Jib Cart ANTAL 624.492/C Order pending in the US #replacement #spares #order
 
The "other amel owner" is likely us.  We ordered them from Euro Marine Trading about 2 weeks ago and delivery is expected in another week or so.  That's the same price we were quoted.  We're getting new genoa blocks as well (part 01201, $399/ea).

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Fri, May 15, 2020 at 5:19 PM Michael & Robyn <SY_RIPPLE@...> wrote:
Greetings!
We are about to order spare ANTAL Genoa Jib Cart 624.492/C
it is a custom build version of http://www.antal.it/eng/624-492_en
We hear another AMEL owner is having an order pending too and we will get a good price approx. $360 per cart.
Anybody else interested to join the order?
--
Michael & Robyn

SY RIPPLE SM2K # 417
still in Brunswick, GA

Re: Volvo oil pressure - single wire non-isolated switch

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Hi Mohammad  


I try to understand the issue with the single wire non-isolated pressure switch. I'm interested to buy one of these pressure switches for spare but don’t exactly know how to order. I can find in Internet on official VolvoPenta.com, Marinepartseurope.com or other sites the pressure switch, but I’m not sure I will receive a single wire non-isolated pressure switch.

Can you ore someone from the group please enlighten me on this topic? 


Thanks and best regards

Ruedi 

WASABI A54#55

Re: Whole Boat Permanent Inverter for 220VAC 50Hz

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hello Gary;

 

We are looking into supplying the entire 220V panel from the battery bank by inverters, so we can run all boat systems from the battery bank. With new inverter/chargers there is the ability to feed both shore power and generator power directly, thus elimination the over decade old original switch that came with the boat. This has been a source of thought from time to time, as some apparently have had fires due to the failure of this switch.

 

I won’t go into the details of our developing design concept, since it does not answer your question. However, in our design concept, your idea of providing a separate charger that runs on 110/60Hz, would be sufficient to address the frequency difference. So, in all cases, in the absence of 220/50Hz shore power or generator, the batteries would be supplying the inverter that is supplying the entire 220V panel on board. The 110/60Hz charger just supplies the 24V needed for the inverters. This would be completely isolated from all other systems and would simply be a 110/60Hz shore power connection and two wires to the battery bank, thus keeping the two systems isolated.

 

Just another though.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Gary Wells via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2020 6:25 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Whole Boat Permanent Inverter for 220VAC 50Hz

 

[Edited Message Follows]

There have been a couple of recent discussions about getting 220V aboard while plugged in to U.S. (North American) shore power and some of the considerations between the 50Hz/60Hz difference. While we've enjoyed Adagio's collection of adapters which allow easy connection to shore power pretty much anywhere, the 50Hz/60Hz  consideration has been on my "list" for some time now. 

It is certainly not "critical" that we have 50Hz aboard all the the time as most of the appliances (most importantly the Air Conditioners!) tolerate the disparity without complaint.  However, I feel the microwave and the washing machine both are sensitive enough to warrant proper Hz. We do have a small inverter already (about 800w) and if we want (need) to do a small load of laundry in cold water we can indeed use the washer by stretching an extension cord from the inverter to the washer.

 

I  have been thinking over providing inverter power to the whole boat on a permanent basis and was wondering if anyone else has done this or considered it.  It would mean installation of a large inverter (perhaps 4,000 watts, pure sine wave) and using that output exclusively to the boat's power input switchover box (where the shore power comes in now).  The shore power would come aboard and run to the batter charger and nothing else.  (The Genset and "magic switch" cutover would be the same).

 

So, then we would have 220VAC at 50Hz regardless of the situation of the shore power .. it would be a kind of power conditioner as well, smoothing the voltage and frequency if the shore power is shaky.  I do see an advantage to this, as the battery charger can accept a wider range of voltage/Hz variance than the appliances.

 

The obvious downside is that the whole boat would be essentially powered by the battery bank. Shore power would come only to the battery charger, then get converted to 24VDC and then get inverted back to house power at 220VAC 50Hz.  This is obviously less efficient and presents a potential additional battery drain should the Inverter be left on while underway .. although .. with wind and solar providing some power, the use of a 220VAC 50Hz appliance without the need to run the Generator could be a good advantage..

 

Oh, my ..  it's quite a dilemma :)

 

Any thoughts on the idea? 

 

Thanks kindly,

Gary W.
SM209, Adagio
Georgia, USA

Re: Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

Gary Wells
 

Hi Stephen,

 

I have not had that problem (yet) but I am curious about it causing a draw vs. tripping the breaker. 

I ~have~ had a fault to ground due to condensation from a tiny leak in the heating element (or maybe just condensastion under the plastic cover) and I can attest that the breaker will trip at almost nil fault current (like 35milliamps).  I would replace the thermostat first (cheap) and the heating element second (maybe $80 U.S).  The hard part about those Quick brand boilers is that the heating element almost requires a 55mm socket to break them loose.  Luckily, a Toyota wheel bearing socket is exactly right.

AnchorExpress.com has the heating elements and Thermostats although their delivery time is long.  I got my new thermostat from eBay, actually but the heating element (plus a spare) is on the way.

 

Funny to me is that the original Stainless boiler gave zero trouble until it just died, but the new and improved all plastic one seems more prone to faults.

 

Ah, it's the sailing life for me :)

Gary W.
SM209, Adagio
-Waiting for Arthur to pass-

Re: Onan ballbearing check and valves values

Gary Silver
 

Hi Oliver:

I have been concerned about the generator rotor ball bearings for the last 15 years.  As I recall the manual indicates this should be replace every 5?? of years or ?? hours of run time.  In 2006 I purchased the parts and engaged a "Onan Certified" technician in St. Thomas to do that change.  He took the end cover off the generator, looked at the bearing, became completely intimidated with the task and decline to do it, even though I had the new parts available.  I have since had discussion with the technicians at Cummings Diesel (Salt Lake City), the local Onan dealer and where I source my Onan parts.  They don't have any direct experience but did produce for me several pages from their service manual for this model that very vaguely discuss it.  Those instructions don't give a detailed process and seem to imply that the procedure is so rudimentary that one shouldn't need to have to inquire how it is done.  I have tried to puzzle out the process from these resources but have concluded that it would be impractical for me to tackle the job while the unit is "below decks".  As I understand it, the rotor is supported, by a means not specified, while the generator end housing is removed, the bearing extracted from its counter-bore, and a new bearing is pressed into place.   Perhaps there is some sort of tool/support for doing that.  I am guessing the rotor with its windings is very heavy.  I wonder if Bill Rouse might have any sway to get a procedure for this from Onan.

Gary Silver 
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 # 335
currently at home in Utah while my boat languishes in Puerto Rico

Re: Whole Boat Permanent Inverter for 220VAC 50Hz

Mark Erdos
 

Gary,

 

Do you also plan to run the air-conditioning from the inverter?

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Gary Wells
Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2020 3:25 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Whole Boat Permanent Inverter for 220VAC 50Hz

 

[Edited Message Follows]

There have been a couple of recent discussions about getting 220V aboard while plugged in to U.S. (North American) shore power and some of the considerations between the 50Hz/60Hz difference. While we've enjoyed Adagio's collection of adapters which allow easy connection to shore power pretty much anywhere, the 50Hz/60Hz  consideration has been on my "list" for some time now. 

It is certainly not "critical" that we have 50Hz aboard all the the time as most of the appliances (most importantly the Air Conditioners!) tolerate the disparity without complaint.  However, I feel the microwave and the washing machine both are sensitive enough to warrant proper Hz. We do have a small inverter already (about 800w) and if we want (need) to do a small load of laundry in cold water we can indeed use the washer by stretching an extension cord from the inverter to the washer.

 

I  have been thinking over providing inverter power to the whole boat on a permanent basis and was wondering if anyone else has done this or considered it.  It would mean installation of a large inverter (perhaps 4,000 watts, pure sine wave) and using that output exclusively to the boat's power input switchover box (where the shore power comes in now).  The shore power would come aboard and run to the batter charger and nothing else.  (The Genset and "magic switch" cutover would be the same).

 

So, then we would have 220VAC at 50Hz regardless of the situation of the shore power .. it would be a kind of power conditioner as well, smoothing the voltage and frequency if the shore power is shaky.  I do see an advantage to this, as the battery charger can accept a wider range of voltage/Hz variance than the appliances.

 

The obvious downside is that the whole boat would be essentially powered by the battery bank. Shore power would come only to the battery charger, then get converted to 24VDC and then get inverted back to house power at 220VAC 50Hz.  This is obviously less efficient and presents a potential additional battery drain should the Inverter be left on while underway .. although .. with wind and solar providing some power, the use of a 220VAC 50Hz appliance without the need to run the Generator could be a good advantage..

 

Oh, my ..  it's quite a dilemma :)

 

Any thoughts on the idea? 

 

Thanks kindly,

Gary W.
SM209, Adagio
Georgia, USA

Onan ballbearing check and valves values

Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
 

Hello,

1.
My ONAN manual indicates that the ballbearings need to be checked for their tollerance. In regular maintenance schedule. 

Does anybody hold an instruction how to do that?

2.
What are the valve values for the exhaust valves? 
Onan MDKBM-5754457

Oliver from Vela Nautica Amel54 #39 
Martinique