[Attachment(s) from Anna Eriksson included below]

There is something wrong in the transmissionbox. Se photo.
And the motor is vibrating more than before it happened. I am now driving on 1800... How sirious is this???
From my wifes telefon
Arthur. Sundqvist
Vista. SM 435

 

Bill,

Katherine and I have removed our engine (and generator) many times (like 6 or 8) with the boat's rigging very safely and without incident. Takes a few hours but is very straightforward. 

We start by removing the engine room hatch cover, then disconnect all engine connections, shaft coupling and engine mounts. About 3 hours to do this.

Next we put shackles on the engine's lifting tabs and tie a short stout line between them. This become a lifting "sling" for the halyards and control lines we'll use and those can be slid along the sling to balance the engine. Once the lifting halyard is tensioned it doesn't slip.

Now we rig lifting line #1 by removing the main sheet from it's tang on the mizzen and running another line from the engine sling, up to the tang, over to the genoa sheet turning block and then to the genoa winch. (We actually use the tail end of the genoa sheet for this - plenty strong.)

Now we rig lifting line #2 using the balooner halyard. Run it aft by putting it in front of the topping lift winch, or just use a snatch block made fast anywhere in front of the mast. Then create a "fair" lead to the engine by using another snatch block on the foc d'artimon halyard. You can also supplement that with a snatch block from the main boom. And, for real "belts and suspenders" we sometimes add the engine lifting halyard.

Next we rig an athwartships control line from the sling to the other genoa winch. 

Now you just orchestrate a coordinated lift - it helps to have a third person if available. Lifting lines #1 and #2 give you precise fore and aft control and the athwartships line controls right and left. You can also easily nudge the engine a bit as it comes up.  As it comes up we stop frequently and snug up the extra halyard so we've always got redundancy.

This is simply how we usually do it - as you get into it you may well need to create variations that may work better for you - there's no strict formula.  Just keep at least two lines carrying the weight of the engine. 

We usually just lower the engine onto a cockpit seat to do our repair work, but when we do remove it from the boat we like to use the main halyard over the boom end, with another safety.  That's a pain because you have to lower the sail, and you can use the balooner cleverly snatched forward to let it go aft without chafing the mast.

Enjoy - this ranks right up there with fun Amel projects and your dockmates will be green with envy ... or call the mental health professionals to intercede.

Cheers,

Craig and Katherine Briggs, SN68, Sangaris

---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Well i read the horror story of a SM owner who almost sunk his boat while lifting his engine with a stretchy line to replace the silent blocks. Was only saved by the quick reaction of the people of the marina he was in. 

In French, but worth a read, if only for the entertainment as it’s quite well written

See 1er Janvier in

http://www.partiraularge.com/carnetdebordR1.htm

Enjoy,

Thomas, 

away from

GARULFO

A54-122

Curaçao 

On Mon, 30 Jul 2018 at 01:37, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I have an Amel School Client that I would like to get some "firsthand" information for.

He is going to be repowering his 54. He is interested in discussing all of the necessary rigging that was utilized if you removed your engine with a halyard.

I apologize for being in the middle of this discussion, but my client is going to be out of reach for about two weeks.

If you have firsthand knowledge of utilizing a halyard to remove an engine, I would like to hear from you. If you prefer direct email, bill"at"amelschool.com

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be taken when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any referred to mechanical and/or electrical device or system.

 

Hi Bill,

The only issue I can see with mounting the A/C unit “backwards” is that the temperature sensor is mounted on the front of the coil. This might make the sensor think it is sensing  a different temperature than the ambient air in the head .

If I were to have designed  the thermostat setup ,in the aft cabin, I would put the thermostat in the cabin with an electronic sensor attached, and not in the head. I did this when I installed my Dometic A/C unit.

With the old unit the head was always warmer than the aft cabin. Now the aft cabin is at the correct temperature.

 

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2018 7:52 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Aft Climma AC, SM

 

 

Gary,

 

I am sure that you already solved this issue because when something is not right on your SM, you always make it right. However, I need to tell you that I remember meeting a guy who once owned a SM. In fact he was a super-duper engineer that invented the turbine propulsion that makes Navy subs run silent. He also invented the nuclear aircraft carrier turbines that cause the carrier develop unbelievable speed. I can't write that speed here because it is highly classified.

 

I think this guy told me that he mounted his aft Climma AC in a roundabout orientation to improve the Venturi effect, thus doubling fan output. Maybe he was involved somehow in your SM.😀

 

Best,

 

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

 

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be taken when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any referred to mechanical and/or electrical device or system.

 

 

On Mon, Jul 16, 2018 at 6:20 AM gary@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Well, here's a question I just need to bounce around.  I need to see if the aft air conditioner on my SM is mounted correctly, or was installed "backwards".  I talked to Bill R. about it, and I am pretty sure I have exactly the right answer, but unfortunately that answer comes with no solution.

 

I have the aft air conditioner out and sitting in the head.  The way it was installed put the air input/cooling fins outboard, kind of against the hull and it is impossible to clean them without detaching the whole unit and sliding it out for access (meaning pulling out the head). 

 

Looking over the situation, it would be pretty easy to re-plumb it and reverse the orientation so that the cooling fins were facing inboard into the head. ~but~ , the exhaust elbow for the blower fan does not appear to be in any way movable as far as I can see.  Makes me wonder if there were right-hand/left-ha nd versions of the eh-9 compact, or if others might have a similar orientation with their units..

 

I'm not sure I want to 'solve' the problem if it's normal.

 

Could someone else with a hull number close (we are 209) take a quick look see and let me know how your unit is oriented? 

 

Thanks,

 

Gary W.

SM 209, "Adagio"

Malta

 

 

I have an Amel School Client that I would like to get some "firsthand" information for.

He is going to be repowering his 54. He is interested in discussing all of the necessary rigging that was utilized if you removed your engine with a halyard.

I apologize for being in the middle of this discussion, but my client is going to be out of reach for about two weeks.

If you have firsthand knowledge of utilizing a halyard to remove an engine, I would like to hear from you. If you prefer direct email, bill"at"amelschool.com

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be taken when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any referred to mechanical and/or electrical device or system.