Re: generator pcb board
eric freedman
I have a friend in Bogota that repairs expensive circuit boards. Mostly for mining and the oil business.
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I asked him how he gets the schematics. He replied with the cheap labor in Colombia ($1.00 an hour) he just has his technicians test every component on the board. I would love to send him a defective board and see what he can do with it. Fair Winds, Eric SM 376
On September 26, 2020 at 7:31 PM rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@...> wrote:
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Re: generator pcb board
rossirossix4
Just a related comment...seems these boards fail alot....my MDKAV has this expensive board as well. There has been at least one posting claiming that heat "melts" these boards. When I run the generator and (almost always make water at the same time) I leave the engine room open (we are always at anchor or mooring ball so the noise to others is minimal). That extractor fan is pretty feeble and I think the Dessalator motor likes to be cool as well. Might make a difference. My engine room has a 220V outlet mounted up high on the forward bulkhead and I have a 220 fan that is aimed at the Dessalator high pressure pump and in the general vacinity of the battery chargers. Since this fan works anytime we are on shorepower or when the generator is producing 220 it might help. Maybe I need to point another one at the generator control board area. These portable plastic fans are cheap and also help when you are working in the engine room--can be run off the inverter or on shore power in those situations.
To ramble on a little more....a while back I wrote Fight Systems, Inc. that makes more reasonably priced replacement control boards for Onans and asked them if they could offer a board for MDKAVs and received the following reply" Hi Bob, Thank you for reaching out to us. We consider many factors where looking at possible aftermarket replacement projects. The engineering process takes 6-8 months and costs well over $30,000, so we have to be sure a market exists that will allow for us to recover expenses in a reasonable amount of time. There are several drawbacks to designing a replacement for the 327-1533, the first is the customer case that the board rests in. That case will require an up front tooling cost of about $15,000 if we were to commission a plastic injection mold. That would be in addition to the $30,000 engineering investment. Unfortunately, at this time I am not confident we would be able to recoup our investment within a one year period based on the number of generators In the market that use this control. I wish it were as simple as snapping my fingers and having a replacement available. Regards, Anthony Misiti COO Flight SystemsMaybe we could entice them with a pre purchase of a hundred or more.....seems like carrying a spare control board is a good idea. Their boards run in the $250 to $300 range. Bob and Suzanne Rossi, KAIMI SM 429
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Re: New gearboxes - painted or bare alloy?
Ian Park
Well done Bill. Hadn’t thought of the real simple job of removing just the shaft. It’s on the schedule now. Thank you!
Feel a bit like Homer! Doooh!!
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Re: New gearboxes - painted or bare alloy?
I agree with Ian about removing the outhaul gearbox shaft regularly to keep it free. However, I recommend once a year minimum. I had to replace the outhaul gearbox after two years of ocean sailing and it was completely frozen. I hired a local Amel specialist and it took us 6 hours to get it off. We tried 3 different pullers and eventually had to use a grinder to cut the gearbox into small pieces. Not a fun project. I greased the shaft heavily. There's no need to remove the gearbox completely, just remove the shaft which is held by a single nut and regrease it. Should be 20 minute job. Regards, Bill Shaproski Former Amel Owner
On Sat, Sep 26, 2020 at 5:15 AM Ian Park <parkianj@...> wrote: Mike, --
Bill Shaproski Cell: +1-206-375-2787
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Re: New gearboxes - painted or bare alloy?
I've ordered several sets of these gearboxes from Bonfiglioli and they all were delivered with no finish. I finished them the same or similar way I would have finished an aluminum part at Boeing. That means a thorough cleaning to remove grease from surfaces, a coat of Alodine, two coats of zinc chromate primer, and two coats of enamel. Having said that the first two units external surfaces showed heavy deterioration after two years of sailing around the world in the South Pacific and Indian Oceans meaning they saw a lot of salt water spray. The other two units were just installed so have no sea time yet. On these last two units I skipped the Alodine. If the supplier is willing to finish them for you, I would recommend that you accept that as they can probably do a better job. I would also recommend that you install a cover over the units to protect them from salt water spray as suggested by another thread regarding these gearboxes. Even wrapping them in a plastic bag or shrunk wrap would be preferable to no protection in my opinion. But I'm no expert so check with the other thread on this topic. Regards Bill Shaproski Former Amel Owner
On Sat, Sep 26, 2020 at 1:10 AM Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) <svtrilogy53@...> wrote: Hello everyone, --
Bill Shaproski Cell: +1-206-375-2787
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Volvo 24v alternator exciter
24 V alternator recently requires higher RPM before producing voltage. Any suggestions about where to start troubleshooting? Exciter circuitry? Thanks!
Mike Ondra Aletes SM240
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Re: generator pcb board
Jeff, Thanks for sharing. I checked and that PCB, part number 327-1533, is also used in MDKAV, MDKAW, & MDKAZ...maybe others. Bill
On Sat, Sep 26, 2020 at 7:25 AM JEFFREY KRAUS <jmkraus@...> wrote: Good Day Amelians
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Re: converting 24v alternator to ribbed micro v (serpentine)
Hi Oliver,
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If you are talking about the small pulley on the alternator itself, it is very tight, so you may have to take the alternator off to a garage that changes car tyres and ask them to use the compressed air socket set. However I did not need to do that. The problem is how to hold the shaft of the alternator whilst undoing the nut. If you use a screw driver in the fan blades then you will damage it. If you look closely at the end of the shaft where the pulley nut is threaded you will see a hexagonal hole that will accept an allan key. You still can not use a normal socket as that would block the access to the hexagonal hole. You could use a socket with two flat sides to put a big wrench on, then undo the nut whilst holding the shaft with the allan key. When the nut is removed you may need a puller as the pulley should be a snug fit on the shaft. If you are talking about the big pulley bolted to the engine pulley. There are 4 bolts that can be removed quite easily. Then use a long bar to gently lever off the pulley. I hope that helps a photo would make it easier to explain. Nick Amelia AML 54-019 Greece
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Re: converting 24v alternator to ribbed micro v (serpentine)
Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
Hello Nick, Can you describe the process to remouve the alternator pulley wheel a bit closer. Its hard to remouve... Oliver from Vela Nautica A54#39 Martinique
On Thu, Sep 24, 2020, 08:00 ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
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Re: generator pcb board
Thomas Kleman
I know you've probably done this but I wanted to share my experience. My MDKAV gave me a "call tech/bad cpu" message once. But when I kept testing it became apparent that only the AC units caused this. I changed the capacitor in the AC pump (the only commonality) and all was OK. My MDKAV sometimes gives false error codes so a bit of deductive testing is required to prove the cpu is bad. I have a spare so of course I've never needed it (yet).
Tom and Kirstin SV L'ORIENT Oahu
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Re: converting 24v alternator to ribbed micro v (serpentine)
Hi Alan, Il 26/09/2020 00:48, Alan Leslie ha
scritto:
Hi Giovanni,
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locked
Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -
Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
Hello, Good BMS systems measure 0.001 Volt with +/- 2 exact. Balancing is over evaluated in the thread. A good batterie setup stays balanced for years after initial balancing if needed at all. You may check on it from time to time but a good system will hand a banalce Alarm anyway. Active balancing has no real advantage agains passive balancing. It only reuses a tiny bit of energy instead of dissipating it. Oliver from Vela Nautica A54#39 Martinique
On Wed, Sep 23, 2020, 18:18 Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote: Hi Scott,
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generator pcb board
JEFFREY KRAUS
Good Day Amelians
Recently, I was running system checks aboard s/v Spirit before a planned run from from Puerto Rico back up to Long Island NY. My gen set shut down upon starting and indicated an error code of 3 flashes. That code asked for a second code, which when generated translated to requesting that a a certified onan technician be called. My generator is an MDKAW circa 2005. When I ran it by my onan dealer back on LI, he indicated that it was the pcb board (the brain), or the whindings. Whindings checked out ok. I contacted Onan, they had none in stock. They ran an engine down worldwide search, and still came up with none. Making matters worse, they said the company that makes the board for them is out of business (due to covid), and they don't expect to have a new supplier of this part in place for 6 to 9 months. Fortunately, I found a parts supplier on ebay that has the part in stock. It's a few hundred dollars more then thru onan, but they have it, and it has been shipped. The fellow I spoke to told me they had 12 in stock (it's now 11 lol). My board is a pcb board part # 327-1533 The company is Arkansas Valley Diesel Service. Phone # 719 9316003 If anyone else runs into this issue, I hope this will save them some aggravation. Best Wishes to all Amelians. Jeff Spirit Amel 54 #14
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Re: New gearboxes - painted or bare alloy?
Ian Park
Mike,
You may have to grind the fins off the mainsail furling gearbox to fit in the mast profile. So you’d need to paint over anyway. I changed mine three years ago. I painted with an aluminium primer and top coated with a one pot paint that matched the mast/boom. It’s worked fine, and if it gets scruffy I can paint it again. I would say that one of the gearboxes was filled with oil, the other with grease (there was a discussion on this) The oil dripped out (in small amounts) of the seal onto the deck, so I refilled it with grease instead. Don’t know when you last removed the boom gearbox, but I take mine off every two years now to keep the outhaul shaft easy to free. Ian Ocean Hobo SN96 On passage to North Wales
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Re: New gearboxes - painted or bare alloy?
Mark McGovern
Mike,
I would choose the paint. The gearboxes are likely made from cast aluminum which tends to oxidize much faster than extruded aluminum does. It also gets that unsightly white, chalky, aluminum oxide powder on it, not a nice uniform oxide coating. If you go with the bare aluminum you will need to clean it regularly to keep it looking nice. If you go with paint, you won't need to do any real regular maintenance other than fresh water rinsing until the paint fails. At which time you can remove the paint, re-paint it and begin the cycle again or leave it as bare aluminum for awhile, see what happens, and decide what to do from there. Mark McGovern SM #440 Cara Deale, MD USA
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Re: New gearboxes - painted or bare alloy?
Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
Hi Eric, I'm ordering them new from Bonfiglioli Transmission in Auckland. They are 70:1 reduction gearboxes (VF44 P1 70:1 P63 B14). So from a cosmetic standpoint you recommend paint? Is there any other noticeable or problematic degradation? Does anyone know how long the paint lasts? Cheers, Mike Longcor SV Trilogy SM23 Opua, NZ
On Sat, Sep 26, 2020, 8:56 PM eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:
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Re: New gearboxes - painted or bare alloy?
eric freedman
Hi,
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What make gearboxes are you using and where are you getting them? If you leave the gearboxes unprotected they will look terrible in a short time. I was considering having my gearboxes sand blasted and powder coated. Any thoughts on that. Fair Winds, Eric SM 376 Kimberlite
On September 26, 2020 at 4:10 AM "Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)" <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:
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New gearboxes - painted or bare alloy?
Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
Hello everyone,
I'm ordering new gearboxes for the main furler and main outhaul. The units can be shipped with a bare alloy finish or with a 2 pot epoxy paint. I'm curious if anyone has advice one way or the other. The paint will provide protection but will undoubtly fail at some point. The aluminum alloy should self-passivate and not continually corrode/oxidize. Any advice from experience? Any issues in running with bare alloy, besides initial appearance? I suppose it will look better than flaking paint in the long run. Cheers, Mike Longcor SV Trilogy SM23 Opua, NZ
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Re: Main mast Antennas
On my boat it was Banten antennas. I think Amel use only Banten.
Arnold SV Zephyr SM 203 Am 26.09.2020 um 08:09 schrieb Slavko D. <slavko@...>: That is the one broken. Not much left to figure out the model number. I will have to climb.
-- Arnold SY Zephyr SM203
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Re: Main mast Antennas
That is the one broken. Not much left to figure out the model number. I will have to climb.
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