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Re: generator pcb board

eric freedman
 

I have a friend in Bogota that repairs expensive circuit boards. Mostly for mining and the oil business.
I asked him how he gets the schematics. He replied with the cheap labor in Colombia ($1.00 an hour)
he just has his technicians test every component on the board.
I would love to send him a defective board and see what he can do with it.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376

On September 26, 2020 at 7:31 PM rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@...> wrote:

Just a related comment...seems these boards fail alot....my MDKAV has this expensive board as well.  There has been at least one posting claiming that heat "melts" these boards.  When I run the generator and (almost always make water at the same time) I leave the engine room open (we are always at anchor or mooring ball so the noise to others is minimal).  That extractor fan is pretty feeble and I think the Dessalator motor likes to be cool as well.  Might make a difference.  My engine room has a 220V outlet mounted up high on the forward bulkhead and I have a 220 fan that is aimed at the Dessalator high pressure pump and in the general vacinity of the battery chargers.  Since this fan works anytime we are on shorepower or when the generator is producing 220 it might help.  Maybe I need to point another one at the generator control board area.  These portable plastic fans are cheap and also help when you are working in the engine room--can be run off the inverter or on shore power in those situations.

To ramble on a little more....a while back I wrote Fight Systems, Inc. that makes more reasonably priced replacement control boards for Onans and asked them if they could offer a board for MDKAVs and received the following reply" 
Hi Bob, 

Thank you for reaching out to us. We consider many factors where looking at possible aftermarket replacement projects. The engineering process takes 6-8 months and costs well over $30,000, so we have to be sure a market exists that will allow for us to recover expenses in a reasonable amount of time. There are several drawbacks to designing a replacement for the 327-1533, the first is the customer case that the board rests in. That case will require an up front tooling cost of about $15,000 if we were to commission a plastic injection mold. That would be in addition to the $30,000 engineering investment. Unfortunately, at this time I am not confident we would be able to recoup our investment within a one year period based on the number of generators In the market that use this control. I wish it were as simple as snapping my fingers and having a replacement available. 

Regards,

Anthony Misiti
COO
Flight Systems
Maybe we could entice them with a pre purchase of a hundred or more.....seems like carrying a spare control board is a good idea.  Their boards run in the $250 to $300 range.

Bob and Suzanne Rossi, KAIMI SM 429

 

Re: generator pcb board

rossirossix4
 

Just a related comment...seems these boards fail alot....my MDKAV has this expensive board as well.  There has been at least one posting claiming that heat "melts" these boards.  When I run the generator and (almost always make water at the same time) I leave the engine room open (we are always at anchor or mooring ball so the noise to others is minimal).  That extractor fan is pretty feeble and I think the Dessalator motor likes to be cool as well.  Might make a difference.  My engine room has a 220V outlet mounted up high on the forward bulkhead and I have a 220 fan that is aimed at the Dessalator high pressure pump and in the general vacinity of the battery chargers.  Since this fan works anytime we are on shorepower or when the generator is producing 220 it might help.  Maybe I need to point another one at the generator control board area.  These portable plastic fans are cheap and also help when you are working in the engine room--can be run off the inverter or on shore power in those situations.

To ramble on a little more....a while back I wrote Fight Systems, Inc. that makes more reasonably priced replacement control boards for Onans and asked them if they could offer a board for MDKAVs and received the following reply"
Hi Bob, 

Thank you for reaching out to us. We consider many factors where looking at possible aftermarket replacement projects. The engineering process takes 6-8 months and costs well over $30,000, so we have to be sure a market exists that will allow for us to recover expenses in a reasonable amount of time. There are several drawbacks to designing a replacement for the 327-1533, the first is the customer case that the board rests in. That case will require an up front tooling cost of about $15,000 if we were to commission a plastic injection mold. That would be in addition to the $30,000 engineering investment. Unfortunately, at this time I am not confident we would be able to recoup our investment within a one year period based on the number of generators In the market that use this control. I wish it were as simple as snapping my fingers and having a replacement available. 

Regards,

Anthony Misiti
COO
Flight Systems
Maybe we could entice them with a pre purchase of a hundred or more.....seems like carrying a spare control board is a good idea.  Their boards run in the $250 to $300 range.

Bob and Suzanne Rossi, KAIMI SM 429
Re: New gearboxes - painted or bare alloy?

Ian Park
 

Well done Bill. Hadn’t thought of the real simple job of removing just the shaft. It’s on the schedule now. Thank you!

Feel a bit like Homer! Doooh!!
Re: New gearboxes - painted or bare alloy?

Bill Shaproski
 

I agree with Ian about removing the outhaul gearbox shaft regularly to keep it free.  However, I recommend once a year minimum.  I had to replace the outhaul gearbox after two years of ocean sailing and it was completely frozen.  I hired a local Amel specialist and it took us 6 hours to get it off.  We tried 3 different pullers and eventually had to use a grinder to cut the gearbox into small pieces.  Not a fun project.  I greased the shaft heavily.  There's no need to remove the gearbox completely, just remove the shaft which is held by a single nut and regrease it.  Should be 20 minute job.  
Regards,
Bill Shaproski
Former Amel Owner

On Sat, Sep 26, 2020 at 5:15 AM Ian Park <parkianj@...> wrote:
Mike,
You may have to grind the fins off the mainsail furling gearbox to fit in the mast profile. So you’d need to paint over anyway.
I changed mine three years ago. I painted with an aluminium primer and top coated with a one pot paint that matched the mast/boom.  It’s worked fine, and if it gets scruffy I can paint it again.
I would say that one of the gearboxes was filled with oil, the other with grease (there was a discussion on this) The oil dripped out (in small amounts) of the seal onto the deck,  so I refilled it with grease instead. Don’t know when you last removed the boom gearbox, but I take mine off every two years now to keep the outhaul shaft easy to free.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96
On passage to North Wales







--
Bill Shaproski
Cell:  +1-206-375-2787
Re: New gearboxes - painted or bare alloy?

Bill Shaproski
 

I've ordered several sets of these gearboxes from Bonfiglioli and they all were delivered with no finish.  I finished them the same or similar way I would have finished an aluminum part at Boeing.  That means a thorough cleaning to remove grease from surfaces, a coat of Alodine, two coats of zinc chromate primer, and two coats of enamel.  Having said that the first two units external surfaces showed heavy deterioration after two years of sailing around the world in the South Pacific and Indian Oceans meaning they saw a lot of salt water spray.  The other two units were just installed so have no sea time yet.  On these last two units I skipped the Alodine.  

If the supplier is willing to finish them for you, I would recommend that you accept that as they can probably do a better job.  I would also recommend that you install a cover over the units to protect them from salt water spray as suggested by another thread regarding these gearboxes.  Even wrapping them in a plastic bag or shrunk wrap would be preferable to no protection in my opinion.  But  I'm no expert so check with the other thread on this topic.  

Regards
Bill Shaproski
Former Amel Owner 

On Sat, Sep 26, 2020 at 1:10 AM Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:
Hello everyone,

I'm ordering new gearboxes for the main furler and main outhaul. The units can be shipped with a bare alloy finish or with a 2 pot epoxy paint. I'm curious if anyone has advice one way or the other. The paint will provide protection but will undoubtly fail at some point. The aluminum alloy should self-passivate and not continually corrode/oxidize.

Any advice from experience? Any issues in running with bare alloy, besides initial appearance? I suppose it will look better than flaking paint in the long run.

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
Opua, NZ



--
Bill Shaproski
Cell:  +1-206-375-2787
Volvo 24v alternator exciter

Mike Ondra
 

24 V alternator recently requires higher RPM before producing voltage. Any suggestions about where to start troubleshooting? Exciter circuitry? Thanks!
Mike Ondra
Aletes SM240
Re: generator pcb board

CW Bill Rouse
 

Jeff,

Thanks for sharing. I checked and that PCB, part number 327-1533, is also used in MDKAV, MDKAW, & MDKAZ...maybe others.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Sep 26, 2020 at 7:25 AM JEFFREY KRAUS <jmkraus@...> wrote:
Good Day Amelians
Recently, I was running system checks aboard s/v Spirit before a planned run from from Puerto Rico back up to Long Island NY.
My gen set shut down upon starting and indicated an error code of 3 flashes. That code asked for a second code, which when generated translated to requesting that a a certified onan technician be called.
My generator is an MDKAW circa 2005. 
When I ran it by my onan dealer back on LI, he indicated that it was the pcb board (the brain), or the whindings. Whindings checked out ok.
I contacted Onan, they had none in stock. They ran an engine down worldwide search, and still came up with none. Making matters worse, they said the company that makes the board for them is out of business (due to covid), and they don't expect to have a new supplier of this part in place for 6 to 9 months.
Fortunately, I found a parts supplier on ebay that has the part in stock. It's a few hundred dollars more then thru onan, but they have it, and it has been shipped.
The fellow I spoke to told me they had 12 in stock (it's now 11 lol). My board is a pcb board part # 327-1533
The company is Arkansas Valley Diesel Service. Phone # 719 9316003
If anyone else runs into this issue, I hope this will save them some aggravation.
Best Wishes to all Amelians.
Jeff Spirit Amel 54 #14 
Re: converting 24v alternator to ribbed micro v (serpentine)

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi Oliver,

If you are talking about the small pulley on the alternator itself,  it is very tight, so you may have to take the alternator off to a garage that changes car tyres and ask them to use the compressed air socket set. However I did not need to do that. 

The problem is how to hold the shaft of the alternator whilst undoing the nut. If you use a screw driver in the fan blades then you will damage it. If you look closely at the end of the shaft where the pulley nut is threaded you will see a hexagonal hole that will accept an allan key. You still can not use a  normal socket as that would block the access to the hexagonal hole. You could use a socket with two flat sides to put a big wrench on, then undo the nut whilst holding the shaft with the allan key.

When the nut is removed you may need a puller as the pulley should be a snug fit on the shaft.

If you are talking about the big pulley bolted to the engine pulley. There are 4 bolts that can be removed quite easily. Then use a long bar to gently lever off the pulley.

I hope that helps a photo would make it easier to explain.

Nick

Amelia 
AML 54-019 Greece


On 26 Sep 2020, at 16:59, Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica <oliver.henrichsen@...> wrote:

Hello Nick,

Can you describe the process to remouve the alternator pulley wheel a bit closer. Its hard to remouve... 

Oliver from Vela Nautica 
A54#39 
Martinique 

On Thu, Sep 24, 2020, 08:00 ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi fellow Amel owners.

 I have never been happy with the Leece-Neville 24v 175A alternator set up on Amelia presumably as supplied by Amel. 

Namely a double V belt pulley of 230mm diameter driving a 85mm diameter pulley on the alternator. These pulleys were supplied for B section belts, i.e. 17mm across the top. There was endless belt dust and short belt life. I checked the specs on B section belts and the minimum pulley diameter should be 112mm although it is possible to buy a cogged belt that can run on a minimum 91mm diameter pulley, however in general 112mm diameter is the smallest for B section belts. So this 85mm diameter pulley was wrong for such big belts.


I found on eBay Leece-Neville part number K176101466, priced $30. This is a K section 8 groove pulley with 63mm diameter.  The bore is 7/8 inch with keyway to fit the alternator. The pulley was new and unused.

Micro v belts can go round much smaller pulleys. I think for the K section it is a minimum of 45mm. So no problem going round a 63mm pulley.

I then took the original 230mm double groove pulley, that bolts to the Volvo crankshaft to my local machine shop in the UK who milled it down to match the Leece-Neville one I bought. He did a superb job for £60. 

Please see the photos of the big pulley that has been machined down from 230mm to 200mm.

So I calculate that I now have a pulley ratio of 3.14 whilst before it was 2.7. Thus at idle (725 rpm on the engine) the alternator now runs at 2300 rpm and will be charging nicely. Where as before in idle it was running at 1957 rpm. The alternator only kicks in at 2000 rpm. So in the boat manoeuvring situation we will now have proper charge, and we all know how much power the Bowthruster uses.

The alternator is rated for a maximum RPM of 8000. The Volvo D3 has maximum rpm of about 2700 so I calculate that the maximum engine rpm will have to be 2547.

Seeing as that is really thrashing the engine and I never run it it that level apart from the once a year blast out. I will put a small sticker at the helm saying Max RPM 2500.

Total cost in US$ including new Gates Fleetrunner belt about $125.

Obviously when I get back to the boat I will have to align the alternator, but note how now both pulley are exactly the same width. It will be much easier than before where one pulley was 47mm and the other 52mm. The machine shop supplied me with a few spacers, washers of different thickness, to help but I may well have to have a washer made  for the final alignment.

Nick (in the UK)

S/Y Amelia AML 54-019 in Leros Gr










<IMG_4059.jpeg><IMG_4061.jpeg><IMG_4060.jpeg><IMG_4059.jpeg><IMG_4059.jpeg><IMG_4059.jpeg>
Re: converting 24v alternator to ribbed micro v (serpentine)

Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
 

Hello Nick,

Can you describe the process to remouve the alternator pulley wheel a bit closer. Its hard to remouve... 

Oliver from Vela Nautica 
A54#39 
Martinique 

On Thu, Sep 24, 2020, 08:00 ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi fellow Amel owners.

 I have never been happy with the Leece-Neville 24v 175A alternator set up on Amelia presumably as supplied by Amel. 

Namely a double V belt pulley of 230mm diameter driving a 85mm diameter pulley on the alternator. These pulleys were supplied for B section belts, i.e. 17mm across the top. There was endless belt dust and short belt life. I checked the specs on B section belts and the minimum pulley diameter should be 112mm although it is possible to buy a cogged belt that can run on a minimum 91mm diameter pulley, however in general 112mm diameter is the smallest for B section belts. So this 85mm diameter pulley was wrong for such big belts.


I found on eBay Leece-Neville part number K176101466, priced $30. This is a K section 8 groove pulley with 63mm diameter.  The bore is 7/8 inch with keyway to fit the alternator. The pulley was new and unused.

Micro v belts can go round much smaller pulleys. I think for the K section it is a minimum of 45mm. So no problem going round a 63mm pulley.

I then took the original 230mm double groove pulley, that bolts to the Volvo crankshaft to my local machine shop in the UK who milled it down to match the Leece-Neville one I bought. He did a superb job for £60. 

Please see the photos of the big pulley that has been machined down from 230mm to 200mm.

So I calculate that I now have a pulley ratio of 3.14 whilst before it was 2.7. Thus at idle (725 rpm on the engine) the alternator now runs at 2300 rpm and will be charging nicely. Where as before in idle it was running at 1957 rpm. The alternator only kicks in at 2000 rpm. So in the boat manoeuvring situation we will now have proper charge, and we all know how much power the Bowthruster uses.

The alternator is rated for a maximum RPM of 8000. The Volvo D3 has maximum rpm of about 2700 so I calculate that the maximum engine rpm will have to be 2547.

Seeing as that is really thrashing the engine and I never run it it that level apart from the once a year blast out. I will put a small sticker at the helm saying Max RPM 2500.

Total cost in US$ including new Gates Fleetrunner belt about $125.

Obviously when I get back to the boat I will have to align the alternator, but note how now both pulley are exactly the same width. It will be much easier than before where one pulley was 47mm and the other 52mm. The machine shop supplied me with a few spacers, washers of different thickness, to help but I may well have to have a washer made  for the final alignment.

Nick (in the UK)

S/Y Amelia AML 54-019 in Leros Gr
Re: generator pcb board

Thomas Kleman
 

I know you've probably done this but I wanted to share my experience. My MDKAV gave me a "call tech/bad cpu" message once. But when I kept testing it became apparent that only the AC units caused this. I changed the capacitor in the AC pump (the only commonality) and all was OK. My MDKAV sometimes gives false error codes so a bit of deductive testing is required to prove the cpu is bad. I have a spare so of course I've never needed it (yet).

Tom and Kirstin
SV L'ORIENT
Oahu
Re: converting 24v alternator to ribbed micro v (serpentine)

Giovanni TESTA
 

Hi Alan,
many thanks for infos.
 My Yanmar technician suggested to follow Manual Spare Parts as in PDF_Fig.20 _ n.7
The Carlisle belts are for secure an improvement, I suppose. I ll try to find them on line.
Next future I ll post the Medicane (Med Hurricane) video from my boat on my Youtube page
 https://www.youtube.com/user/eutikia1
Buon Vento
Giovanni
sv EUTIKIA SM 428
Itaca, Porto Vathy (GR)

Il 26/09/2020 00:48, Alan Leslie ha scritto:
Hi Giovanni,

The standard belt is A46
The Carlisle Gold Ribbon raw edge cogged belt is AX46

The A section belt is 1/2" across and 13/32" deep
The AX belt is 1/2" across and 11/32" deep - helps it go around corners better.

I'm not in Facebook so I can't view your video, but I did see video of the Medicane hitting Ithaca and it wasn't good.

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437

PDF
4JH3-TE_SpareParts%201of2.pdf

locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
 

Hello,

Good BMS systems measure 0.001 Volt with +/- 2 exact. 

Balancing is over evaluated in the thread.
A good batterie setup stays balanced for years after initial balancing if needed at all. You may check on it from time to time but a good system will hand a banalce Alarm anyway.
Active balancing has no real advantage agains passive balancing. It only reuses a tiny bit of energy instead of dissipating it.

Oliver from Vela Nautica 
A54#39 
Martinique 

On Wed, Sep 23, 2020, 18:18 Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
Hi Scott,

Don't get me wrong. I'm not against Lithium. I'm just trying to bring some nuance to the many über-happy stories about Lithium. These things are bloody expensive and people should know what they are getting into.
Actually I'm really happy that you bought Lithium because that means you can tell me about how this works in the long term 😎.

In the electric car world you see similar discussions about charging speed and charging level. People are now starting to find out that these batteries are degrading much faster when you are a super-charging junkie and keep pushing it to 100% SOC
So if you buy a used Tesla from a predominately home charging person that doesn't use his car as racing vehicle you are much better off then when you buy a mostly supercharged race-car. There is a reason Tesla keeps all these metrics on their cars.
Latest EV cars are charging with more then 2C (250 kW) using water cooled charging cables. I really wonder how that will work out on the long term.

Anyway I don't want to talk anyone out of Lithium and if my use case was different I probably would have bough an all singing and dancing Lithium pack by now. But I would expect a 8-10 year lifespan of it.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

generator pcb board

JEFFREY KRAUS
 

Good Day Amelians
Recently, I was running system checks aboard s/v Spirit before a planned run from from Puerto Rico back up to Long Island NY.
My gen set shut down upon starting and indicated an error code of 3 flashes. That code asked for a second code, which when generated translated to requesting that a a certified onan technician be called.
My generator is an MDKAW circa 2005. 
When I ran it by my onan dealer back on LI, he indicated that it was the pcb board (the brain), or the whindings. Whindings checked out ok.
I contacted Onan, they had none in stock. They ran an engine down worldwide search, and still came up with none. Making matters worse, they said the company that makes the board for them is out of business (due to covid), and they don't expect to have a new supplier of this part in place for 6 to 9 months.
Fortunately, I found a parts supplier on ebay that has the part in stock. It's a few hundred dollars more then thru onan, but they have it, and it has been shipped.
The fellow I spoke to told me they had 12 in stock (it's now 11 lol). My board is a pcb board part # 327-1533
The company is Arkansas Valley Diesel Service. Phone # 719 9316003
If anyone else runs into this issue, I hope this will save them some aggravation.
Best Wishes to all Amelians.
Jeff Spirit Amel 54 #14 
Re: New gearboxes - painted or bare alloy?

Ian Park
 

Mike,
You may have to grind the fins off the mainsail furling gearbox to fit in the mast profile. So you’d need to paint over anyway.
I changed mine three years ago. I painted with an aluminium primer and top coated with a one pot paint that matched the mast/boom. It’s worked fine, and if it gets scruffy I can paint it again.
I would say that one of the gearboxes was filled with oil, the other with grease (there was a discussion on this) The oil dripped out (in small amounts) of the seal onto the deck, so I refilled it with grease instead. Don’t know when you last removed the boom gearbox, but I take mine off every two years now to keep the outhaul shaft easy to free.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96
On passage to North Wales
Re: New gearboxes - painted or bare alloy?

Mark McGovern
 

Mike,

I would choose the paint.  The gearboxes are likely made from cast aluminum which tends to oxidize much faster than extruded aluminum does.  It also gets that unsightly white, chalky, aluminum oxide powder on it, not a nice uniform oxide coating.

If you go with the bare aluminum you will need to clean it regularly to keep it looking nice.  If you go with paint, you won't need to do any real regular maintenance other than fresh water rinsing until the paint fails.  At which time you can remove the paint, re-paint it and begin the cycle again or leave it as bare aluminum for awhile, see what happens, and decide what to do from there.

Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA
Re: New gearboxes - painted or bare alloy?

Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
 

Hi Eric,

I'm ordering them new from Bonfiglioli Transmission in Auckland. They are 70:1 reduction gearboxes (VF44 P1 70:1 P63 B14).

So from a cosmetic standpoint you recommend paint? Is there any other noticeable or problematic degradation?

Does anyone know how long the paint lasts?

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
Opua, NZ


On Sat, Sep 26, 2020, 8:56 PM eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:
Hi,
What make gearboxes are you using and where are you getting them?
If you leave the gearboxes unprotected they will look terrible in a short time.
I was considering having my gearboxes sand blasted and powder coated.
Any thoughts on that.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376 Kimberlite

On September 26, 2020 at 4:10 AM "Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)" <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:

Hello everyone,

I'm ordering new gearboxes for the main furler and main outhaul. The units can be shipped with a bare alloy finish or with a 2 pot epoxy paint. I'm curious if anyone has advice one way or the other. The paint will provide protection but will undoubtly fail at some point. The aluminum alloy should self-passivate and not continually corrode/oxidize.

Any advice from experience? Any issues in running with bare alloy, besides initial appearance? I suppose it will look better than flaking paint in the long run.

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
Opua, NZ

 

Re: New gearboxes - painted or bare alloy?

eric freedman
 

Hi,
What make gearboxes are you using and where are you getting them?
If you leave the gearboxes unprotected they will look terrible in a short time.
I was considering having my gearboxes sand blasted and powder coated.
Any thoughts on that.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376 Kimberlite

On September 26, 2020 at 4:10 AM "Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)" <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:

Hello everyone,

I'm ordering new gearboxes for the main furler and main outhaul. The units can be shipped with a bare alloy finish or with a 2 pot epoxy paint. I'm curious if anyone has advice one way or the other. The paint will provide protection but will undoubtly fail at some point. The aluminum alloy should self-passivate and not continually corrode/oxidize.

Any advice from experience? Any issues in running with bare alloy, besides initial appearance? I suppose it will look better than flaking paint in the long run.

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
Opua, NZ

 

New gearboxes - painted or bare alloy?

Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
 

Hello everyone,

I'm ordering new gearboxes for the main furler and main outhaul. The units can be shipped with a bare alloy finish or with a 2 pot epoxy paint. I'm curious if anyone has advice one way or the other. The paint will provide protection but will undoubtly fail at some point. The aluminum alloy should self-passivate and not continually corrode/oxidize.

Any advice from experience? Any issues in running with bare alloy, besides initial appearance? I suppose it will look better than flaking paint in the long run.

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
Opua, NZ
Re: Main mast Antennas

Arnold Mente
 

On my boat it was Banten antennas. I think Amel use only Banten.


Arnold 
SV Zephyr
SM 203

Am 26.09.2020 um 08:09 schrieb Slavko D. <slavko@...>:

That is the one broken. Not much left to figure out the model number. I will have to climb. 



--
Arnold
SY Zephyr SM203
Re: Main mast Antennas

Slavko Despotovic
 

That is the one broken. Not much left to figure out the model number. I will have to climb. 
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