Date   

Re: RUDDER ZINC SACRIFICE ANODES - QUESTION

sbmesasailor
 

Hi Alex,

On Libertad (Maramu #121) the zincs are attached with bolts that screw into a threaded sleeve in the rudder.  If the zinc is gone it makes sense that the bolt would be gone too.  Is there a hole that can be detected where the zinc should be mounted?  If so, it probably needs to be cleaned out to reveal the threaded sleeve.  If the threaded sleeve is gone, it shouldn't be too hard to glass in a new SS threaded sleeve to receive the proper size SS bolt.

Good luck

Dennis Johns
Libertad
Maramu #121 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Can 220 Voltage Boat Plug Into a 115 Volt 30 Amp Shore Power

Ryan Meador
 

If you really want to solve the frequency issue, there is a device known as a "frequency converter" that can do it.  They're specialty items, usually only used by larger yachts and ships.  They're expensive and inefficient.  But they might be smaller and/or lighter than a transformer, and some of them can do a voltage change, too, so it might solve all your problems.  Essentially, it's a battery charger and an inverter in a single box, one feeding the other directly.

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA



On Fri, Jun 8, 2018 at 10:46 AM, pacificcool@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thanks much to all who commented on my question regarding plugging into 115 Volts with 60 Hz on a 220 volt boat with 50 Hz.  I checked my battery charger and it can accept any voltage and any frequency.  I'll check with Amel or Joel Potter and see how much it costs to install transformer.  I realize this won't solve the 60 Hz issue, but under the 80-20 rule it may be the best solution.


Thanks again.  

Bill Shaproski
V Pacific Cool



Re: Can 220 Voltage Boat Plug Into a 115 Volt 30 Amp Shore Power

pacificcool@...
 

Thanks much to all who commented on my question regarding plugging into 115 Volts with 60 Hz on a 220 volt boat with 50 Hz.  I checked my battery charger and it can accept any voltage and any frequency.  I'll check with Amel or Joel Potter and see how much it costs to install transformer.  I realize this won't solve the 60 Hz issue, but under the 80-20 rule it may be the best solution.

Thanks again.  

Bill Shaproski
V Pacific Cool


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RUDDER ZINC SACRIFICE ANODES - QUESTION

karkauai
 

The bolt on the other side will be the same thread.  If the threads are stripped you may be able to rethread with the same size.  If you need to go larger, I’d rethread the other side the same so you don’t need two size wrenches.  With bigger bolts you may need to drill the zincs out to accommodate a larger bolt (I have to do that on all my zincs, they drill easily.)


Kent
S/V Kristy
SM243

On Jun 7, 2018, at 5:36 PM, alex.paquin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

As part of the project to apply the new gelcoat on the hull, we were in the process of replacing the zinc anodes on the rudder (the older Maramu has 2). We noticed that one of the anodes was missing when Simpatico went on the hard. Further investigation revealed that the bolt or element on which the anode is screwed (inside the spade) onto is also missing, so we are unable to screw the second anode in place. Any thoughts of how we should proceed in this case. As far as we know, the inside of the rudder spade is not serviceable.


Alex Paquin

s/v SIMPATICO

Hull # 94


RUDDER ZINC SACRIFICE ANODES - QUESTION

Alejandro Paquin
 

As part of the project to apply the new gelcoat on the hull, we were in the process of replacing the zinc anodes on the rudder (the older Maramu has 2). We noticed that one of the anodes was missing when Simpatico went on the hard. Further investigation revealed that the bolt or element on which the anode is screwed (inside the spade) onto is also missing, so we are unable to screw the second anode in place. Any thoughts of how we should proceed in this case. As far as we know, the inside of the rudder spade is not serviceable.


Alex Paquin

s/v SIMPATICO

Hull # 94


Throttle cables

thomas.kleman <no_reply@...>
 

Does anyone know the length of the throttle cables on a super maramu ? Its not the easiest thing to measure (without removing them). My guess is the throttle to trans cable is 12 ft and the throttle to engine cable is 15 ft (morse throttle).

Thanks

Thomas Kleman
SV L’ORIENT
SM2K 422, Bonaire


Davits Installation in Hyeres/France

Wolfgang Weber
 

Hello ,

I would like to make the installation of davits on our Amel 54. After a visit on the boatshow I found the Cooney Oval 15zero Davit a good choice. The problem is, that Amel in Hyeres have no time to do the installation due to lot of work-delivery of new boats.Anyone in the group, who knowes someone in Hyeres or near who could do the job ?

Thank you , safe sailing.   Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54 #162




Re: Can 220 Voltage Boat Plug Into a 115 Volt 30 Amp Shore Power

greatketch@...
 

Alan

Sounds like we are actually on the same page with what works and not.

We have the 24V only water maker,
No dive compressor,
And no dishwasher



Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, Md, USA


Re: Yanmar Mixing Elbow

rossirossix4
 

Just curious regarding the Yanmar cast exhaust elbow....some of us have been using it now for 4 years.  Has anyone yet had a failure?  I have some external discoloration but am guessing it is cosmetic.

Bob, KAIMI SM 429 Monastir Tunisia


holding tank copper pipe

Mike Ondra
 

We are about to tackle that wonderful project of replacing the copper riser and drain pipes for the holding tanks.  Most likely with PVC.

I have reviewed the BB for others experience and suggestions. Has anyone seen a cross section diagram showing the configuration of piping in the tank and associated connections?

Such would be helpful in deciding our solution.

Thanks,

Mike Ondra

S/V ALETES SM#240

Rock Hall, MD


Any Amel Boats in San Diego Yacht club

Bob Grey
 

Hi Amel captains, I’m in San Diego this weekend on business staying near SDYC and was hoping to meet up with another Amel 54/55 owner for a coffee and chat (about Amel boats of course).

My boat is based in Melbourne Australia.

Bob Grey
Renaissance 3


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: A54 Sleipner bowthruster uneven brush wear

 

Thanks for the details.


Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Wed, Jun 6, 2018, 12:54 'S/V Garulfo' svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Bill and 54 owners,

The issue with the Port-only-thrusting was resolved by removing and dismantling the double-solenoid power relay. After cleaning the contacts with sandpaper and corrosionX-ing the springs, it functioned correctly again. The issue was confusing because each relay would behave correctly independently (connecting the top posts and disconnecting the bottom ones) but activating the starboard one would cause the other one to loose its bottom (idle) connection(!). 

Some more info I gathered in the meantime:

* The front relay (red and blue wires) is activated for starboard operation. The back relay (red and grey wires) for port. 
* Power cables are marked A1, A2, D1, D2. A1 and A2 are the stator posts, D1 and D2 are the rotor bobin posts.
* the rotor and stator circuits are in series. The voltage of the rotor is reversed depending on direction. 
* A1 is permanently connected to batteries Neg. A2, D1 and D2 are controlled by the relays. 
* on idle, A2, D1 and D2 are connected together. 
* on Starboard, the front relay connects D2 to batteries Pos (top posts). A2 and D1 are still connected by the bottom posts of the back relay. Circuit is: Pos=D2-rotor-D1=A2-stator-A1=Neg
* on Port, the back relay connects D1 to batteries Pos (top posts). A2 and D2 are still connected by the bottom posts of the front relay. Circuit is: Pos=D1-rotor-D2=A2-stator-A1=Neg

Hope that will help,

Fair winds and happy thrusting

(Oh, and the ground circuit leak got resolved too in the operation. Not sure exactly how, but it did)

Thomas
GARULFO
AMEL 54 #122
Bonaire 


On Mon, 28 May 2018 at 21:43, S/V Garulfo <svgarulfo@...> wrote:
Hi Bill,

I agree the motor is probably fine, as it can run in one direction. 
I can hear the big Albright double-solenoid motor-reversing contactor click for both starboard and port operation. So joystick is innocent.

I think i know what 4 relays you mean (in the plastic junction box) but didn't foresee they played a part in the thrusting operation. I assumed it was only the raising/lowering of the thruster, and that my problem was closer to the Side-Power unit. 

I measured voltage on the Albright contactor posts in port/starboard/idle operation to see if I can reverse engineer what is supposed to happen to the 4 power cables going into the motor.. Need to look at the results with a fresh pair of eyes in the morning. And maybe I'm barking up the wrong tree.


Thanks as always,


Thomas 
GARULFO
AMEL 54 #122
Bonaire 

On Mon, 28 May 2018 at 21:02, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thomas,

It is probably not the motor and is either the joystick or one of the 4 relays. 

Eliminate the joystick first.. 

It is unlikely that your relays are numbered because out of about 10 54s, I have only seen 1 with numbered relays, but they are all the same relay. If all 54s are wired the same, I think it will be relay #2, but, if you have a spare relay, it is easy enough to replace them one at a time until you find the culprit. Of course the problem can be corrosion between the relay terminals and the female spade connectors.

If I owned a 54, I would have 4 spare relays.

Good Luck!

On Mon, May 28, 2018 at 4:22 PM, 'S/V Garulfo' svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi Scott,

Talking of the devil...

I haven't looked into the carbon dust and brushes yet, cause I reconnected the thruster for a quick stop in a marina and after the initial 'all-good' tests, it decided to only thrust to port and not starboard....
So I've got a second issue to troubleshoot. If anyone has experienced it and has clues, it's very welcome. 

I'll check the state of the brushes for uneven wear too, to give you another data point. 
Note that i don't have an oil reservoir in my unit.


Fair winds to all,

Thomas
GARULFO
AMEL 54 #122
Bonaire 

On Mon, 28 May 2018 at 05:54, cpp_berkeley <no_reply@...> wrote:

Craig,


Answers to your questions below:

1) After we let it cool down (~30 minutes) it ran fine. Perhaps a bit weaker but that's probably to be expected considering that some of the brushes have worn down considerably and actually even cracked, exposing just bare conductors. My fear is that going forward, it will continue to overheat prematurely and leave us without a bow thruster when we most need it.

2) The sidepower bowthruster has a drain plug underwater between the two props and a fill reservoir in the bow locker. Obviously oil is changed on the hard. My understanding is that the way to change the oil is to open the plug and continue filling the reservoir until the oil coming out of the plug looks clean. That way, you don't get air into the system.

The mechanic drained all of the oil and he put the plug back and filled the reservoir. The next day, the oil level had dropped, indicating that the air migrated upwards (and/or the thick oil slowly migrated downwards). This drop in oil level continued for a few days. It seems reasonably stable now, but I'm unsure whether some air was still stuck in the gearleg and never made its way out..


Also, we now have a strong "Mass -" leak. Thomas of S/V Garulfo posted that he had a bow thruster leak, possibly from carbon dust. I'll go check that now and report back.

But in general, any idea why the carbon brushes would be wearing so unevenly?


Scott

A54 #69 

S/V Tengah 




---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :


Hi Scott,

Your post raises a couple of questions. 
1. You say the unit had a thermal shutdown - did it work after it cooled  down?  Any problems?
2. In what way did the mechanic have trouble getting air out of the system? On the SN and SM one simply turns the bottom section upside down to drain and then pours in new oil. No issue with air. Perhaps the 54 is a different design that I'm not familiar with.

Craig



Hi all,


I was coming into the quay at Zante yesterday in our A54 with about 10-15 knots on the beam and used the sidepower bow thruster in 10-15 second bursts and all of the sudden, thermal shutdown!


After executing an exciting no thruster stern-to med mooring into a tight spot (with expectant spectators!) I opened up the bow thruster compartment to see a lot of carbon dust. I took the motor cover off and inspected the brushes and found that for each of the pairs (4 pairs, 8 total brushes), one was worn MUCH more than the other one. On some pairs, it's the top one that was worn more, on some, it was the bottom one. Some brushes were down to loose wire.


On the attached photo, you can see the extent of the uneven wear for one pair.


We recently had the boatyard change the bowthruster oil and they drained it all before adding new oil, which resulted in challenges getting all the air out of the system. We then completed a 1350 mile passage. These probably have nothing to do with it, but maybe I'm wrong.


Before I go out and spend money to replace the brushes and possibly experience similar uneven wear, anyone have any ideas as to why this happened and how to rectify it?


Thanks!


Scott

A54 #69 

S/V Tengah 



 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Chesapeake Bay Rendezvous

Patrick McAneny
 

David, You are now on the list. Email me direct in the future, so we don't clog up the Amel site. That make 15 boats, good its a big anchorage.
Thanks.

See Ya There,
Pat SM#123

-----Original Message-----
From: davidlambertsen
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Wed, Jun 6, 2018 4:21 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Chesapeake Bay Rendezvous

 
Pat,
Please add me to the boat list for the rendezvous.  I live near St. Michaels and should be around. Last time, my boat was on the hard and I came out in my yellow center console.  Iris and Kent know how to party, we should take them up on that, for sure. 
David Lambertsen
s/v Have Fun!
1989 Maramu 258


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Chesapeake Bay Rendezvous

davidlambertsen <no_reply@...>
 

Pat,

Please add me to the boat list for the rendezvous.  I live near St. Michaels and should be around. Last time, my boat was on the hard and I came out in my yellow center console.  Iris and Kent know how to party, we should take them up on that, for sure. 

David Lambertsen

s/v Have Fun!

1989 Maramu 258


Re: Can 220 Voltage Boat Plug Into a 115 Volt 30 Amp Shore Power

Alan Leslie
 

Thanks Bill,

Definitely on our boat, the water maker, the dive compressor, the clothes washer, the dishwasher and the microwave won't work on 60Hz...they have labels on them to that effect.

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Cover for mechanical rudder indicator on Steering wheel hub

amel46met
 

If anyone finds a source I could use one Cover  also as well as the red indicator as Emerik Marine smashed mine. Tom S/Y Aphrodite 


On Jun 5, 2018, at 3:01 PM, yachtmaccabee@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

3-D printing seems like a very good idea, but I haven't found anyone to do it locally.


Steve
Yacht MACCABEE
Sharki #121


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Tmd22a is what Perkins

Patrick McAneny
 

Hanspeter, Thank You , Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'hanspeter.baettig@...' hanspeter.baettig@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Wed, Jun 6, 2018 10:58 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Tmd22a is what Perkins

 
Hello Pat
Your Volvo TMD22A ist most similar with the Perkins Prima M80T
Hope this help you
Hanspeter
SM16

Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Am 06.06.2018 um 12:53 schrieb sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 
I have spent many hours trying to find the end caps for the heat exchanger on the internet and a equal time trying to determine this question. My 1994 Volvo TMD22A is which Perkins engine. Does someone know ? The parts for a Perkins is easier to find and cheaper. I see end caps for a Perkins for $38 /pair , my local Volvo dealer quoted me $188/each. Is it a Perkins 4-108 , M50 ,M80 or something else? Presently my engine  cannot be ran and as I am on a mooring,I am uncomfortable with that and need to obtain these new caps asap.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: A54 Sleipner bowthruster uneven brush wear

Sv Garulfo
 

Hi Bill and 54 owners,

The issue with the Port-only-thrusting was resolved by removing and dismantling the double-solenoid power relay. After cleaning the contacts with sandpaper and corrosionX-ing the springs, it functioned correctly again. The issue was confusing because each relay would behave correctly independently (connecting the top posts and disconnecting the bottom ones) but activating the starboard one would cause the other one to loose its bottom (idle) connection(!). 

Some more info I gathered in the meantime:

* The front relay (red and blue wires) is activated for starboard operation. The back relay (red and grey wires) for port. 
* Power cables are marked A1, A2, D1, D2. A1 and A2 are the stator posts, D1 and D2 are the rotor bobin posts.
* the rotor and stator circuits are in series. The voltage of the rotor is reversed depending on direction. 
* A1 is permanently connected to batteries Neg. A2, D1 and D2 are controlled by the relays. 
* on idle, A2, D1 and D2 are connected together. 
* on Starboard, the front relay connects D2 to batteries Pos (top posts). A2 and D1 are still connected by the bottom posts of the back relay. Circuit is: Pos=D2-rotor-D1=A2-stator-A1=Neg
* on Port, the back relay connects D1 to batteries Pos (top posts). A2 and D2 are still connected by the bottom posts of the front relay. Circuit is: Pos=D1-rotor-D2=A2-stator-A1=Neg

Hope that will help,

Fair winds and happy thrusting

(Oh, and the ground circuit leak got resolved too in the operation. Not sure exactly how, but it did)

Thomas
GARULFO
AMEL 54 #122
Bonaire 


On Mon, 28 May 2018 at 21:43, S/V Garulfo <svgarulfo@...> wrote:
Hi Bill,

I agree the motor is probably fine, as it can run in one direction. 
I can hear the big Albright double-solenoid motor-reversing contactor click for both starboard and port operation. So joystick is innocent.

I think i know what 4 relays you mean (in the plastic junction box) but didn't foresee they played a part in the thrusting operation. I assumed it was only the raising/lowering of the thruster, and that my problem was closer to the Side-Power unit. 

I measured voltage on the Albright contactor posts in port/starboard/idle operation to see if I can reverse engineer what is supposed to happen to the 4 power cables going into the motor. Need to look at the results with a fresh pair of eyes in the morning. And maybe I'm barking up the wrong tree.


Thanks as always,


Thomas 
GARULFO
AMEL 54 #122
Bonaire 

On Mon, 28 May 2018 at 21:02, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thomas,

It is probably not the motor and is either the joystick or one of the 4 relays. 

Eliminate the joystick first. 

It is unlikely that your relays are numbered because out of about 10 54s, I have only seen 1 with numbered relays, but they are all the same relay. If all 54s are wired the same, I think it will be relay #2, but, if you have a spare relay, it is easy enough to replace them one at a time until you find the culprit. Of course the problem can be corrosion between the relay terminals and the female spade connectors.

If I owned a 54, I would have 4 spare relays.

Good Luck!

On Mon, May 28, 2018 at 4:22 PM, 'S/V Garulfo' svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi Scott,

Talking of the devil...

I haven't looked into the carbon dust and brushes yet, cause I reconnected the thruster for a quick stop in a marina and after the initial 'all-good' tests, it decided to only thrust to port and not starboard....
So I've got a second issue to troubleshoot. If anyone has experienced it and has clues, it's very welcome. 

I'll check the state of the brushes for uneven wear too, to give you another data point. 
Note that i don't have an oil reservoir in my unit.


Fair winds to all,

Thomas
GARULFO
AMEL 54 #122
Bonaire 

On Mon, 28 May 2018 at 05:54, cpp_berkeley <no_reply@...> wrote:

Craig,


Answers to your questions below:

1) After we let it cool down (~30 minutes) it ran fine. Perhaps a bit weaker but that's probably to be expected considering that some of the brushes have worn down considerably and actually even cracked, exposing just bare conductors. My fear is that going forward, it will continue to overheat prematurely and leave us without a bow thruster when we most need it.

2) The sidepower bowthruster has a drain plug underwater between the two props and a fill reservoir in the bow locker. Obviously oil is changed on the hard. My understanding is that the way to change the oil is to open the plug and continue filling the reservoir until the oil coming out of the plug looks clean. That way, you don't get air into the system.

The mechanic drained all of the oil and he put the plug back and filled the reservoir. The next day, the oil level had dropped, indicating that the air migrated upwards (and/or the thick oil slowly migrated downwards). This drop in oil level continued for a few days. It seems reasonably stable now, but I'm unsure whether some air was still stuck in the gearleg and never made its way out..


Also, we now have a strong "Mass -" leak. Thomas of S/V Garulfo posted that he had a bow thruster leak, possibly from carbon dust. I'll go check that now and report back.

But in general, any idea why the carbon brushes would be wearing so unevenly?


Scott

A54 #69 

S/V Tengah 




---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :


Hi Scott,

Your post raises a couple of questions. 
1. You say the unit had a thermal shutdown - did it work after it cooled  down?  Any problems?
2. In what way did the mechanic have trouble getting air out of the system? On the SN and SM one simply turns the bottom section upside down to drain and then pours in new oil. No issue with air. Perhaps the 54 is a different design that I'm not familiar with.

Craig



Hi all,


I was coming into the quay at Zante yesterday in our A54 with about 10-15 knots on the beam and used the sidepower bow thruster in 10-15 second bursts and all of the sudden, thermal shutdown!


After executing an exciting no thruster stern-to med mooring into a tight spot (with expectant spectators!) I opened up the bow thruster compartment to see a lot of carbon dust. I took the motor cover off and inspected the brushes and found that for each of the pairs (4 pairs, 8 total brushes), one was worn MUCH more than the other one. On some pairs, it's the top one that was worn more, on some, it was the bottom one. Some brushes were down to loose wire.


On the attached photo, you can see the extent of the uneven wear for one pair.


We recently had the boatyard change the bowthruster oil and they drained it all before adding new oil, which resulted in challenges getting all the air out of the system. We then completed a 1350 mile passage. These probably have nothing to do with it, but maybe I'm wrong.


Before I go out and spend money to replace the brushes and possibly experience similar uneven wear, anyone have any ideas as to why this happened and how to rectify it?


Thanks!


Scott

A54 #69 

S/V Tengah 



 



Re: Can 220 Voltage Boat Plug Into a 115 Volt 30 Amp Shore Power

greatketch@...
 

Bill,

If you are in Fort Lauderdale and need help adapting a SM to USA shore power, you should call Joel Potter.  He is local to you, and has more experience with more Super Maramus than anyone not living in La Rochelle.  As Amel's rep in the USA for decades, he knows this issue cold.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Tmd22a is what Perkins

hanspeter baettig
 

Hello Pat
Your Volvo TMD22A ist most similar with the Perkins Prima M80T
Hope this help you
Hanspeter
SM16

Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Am 06.06.2018 um 12:53 schrieb sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

I have spent many hours trying to find the end caps for the heat exchanger on the internet and a equal time trying to determine this question. My 1994 Volvo TMD22A is which Perkins engine. Does someone know ? The parts for a Perkins is easier to find and cheaper. I see end caps for a Perkins for $38 /pair , my local Volvo dealer quoted me $188/each. Is it a Perkins 4-108 , M50 ,M80 or something else? Presently my engine  cannot be ran and as I am on a mooring,I am uncomfortable with that and need to obtain these new caps asap.

Thanks,

Pat

SM Shenanigans