Date   

Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

michael winand
 

I would like to point out that the pipe is not pvc.
These are a polymer that is heat welded.  I would not recommend pvc in the engine room. It's ok for a drain. 
Regards Michael  Nebo sm251


On Sat, 29 Aug 2020 at 12:37 am, CW Bill Rouse
<brouse@...> wrote:
Porter,

This is a photo of the Amel 50 saltwater manifold. If I were you, I would do something like this in PVC:
image.png

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 3:14 AM Porter McRoberts via groups.io <portermcroberts=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Paul. 
We concerns of a plastic manifold...
Or a plastic sea chest with a fire!  
Wow. There are critical concerns with every boat for sure. Or a crack in the Seachest lid!  We have replacements. The boat did not come with one.  After sailing for a while and letting the mind wander I think of all kinds of scenarios. The sea chest lid threads get screwed up....   Extra o rings? We got some but...   One can go on and on. 
You’re line of questioning is a good one. What would Amel say?  

Lets hope we never have an ER fire!  

Porter

Porter McRoberts 
S/V IBIS 
WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206

On Aug 27, 2020, at 1:27 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:



Last paragraph Porter’s Email: attached is the part.

 

April/May 2018 it broke off completely on AMELIT; this is the replacement part I got from AMEL.

I noticed the new unit “sweating” & oxidizing rather quickly; it almost looked like 2 different metals were used. In July/August 2019, in VANUATU, checking & prepping the boat for the trip to the SOLOMONS, my local mechanic Matthieu & I decided to remove this unit completely and replace with a plastic (PVC???) self built unit which has been doing great with no “sweating” at all.

 

When I asked Thierry (AMEL SAV) this was his reply:

 

QUOTE

 

To answer your question this manifold is custom made by Amel . The welding between brass fitting and copper pipe is  carefully done and there is  no risk of leakage.

 

UNQUOTE

 

I have also been planning to redo everything along the A50/60 concept with individual shut off valves for each downstream line.

 

Best Regards Teun

SV AMELIT  A54  #128

 

I am stuck & bored and have been cruising on my motorcycle (March/April) all over BAJA CALIFORNIA 😊 😊 and since June in USA via magnificient State & National Parks on my way to ANNAPOLIS boatshow 😊

 

AMELIT is in storage on the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA and now watched by fellow AMEL owners Sue & Brian MITCHELL (SV LOLA)

August 27, 2020 16:20:07

 

USA cell: +1 832 477 8842

AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909

 

You can follow AMELIT via this link: https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Porter McRoberts via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2020 12:40
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

 

This is indeed a serious issue. 

We had the initial bronze manifold on IBIS. Looked horrible and so when we ordered our arch from Turkey had a stainless replacement manifold constructed. About 2 years ago I changed the bronze one, with significant corrosion to the stainless replacement. One year after replacement upon inspection in NZ I found a small pit and a leak. It was in NZ that I had the resources to build a new manifold out of plastic. I had reservations about the material (plastic vs metal) but recall from an A55 that I believe the stock manifold is plastic on the A55. Encouraged by the chandlery in Opua I built a plastic one. It took a couple of days, a lot of measuring and 5200. I put in isolation valves. I think it is far better than the original. I’d encourage any others who have the resources of a nearby good plumbing chandlery to think about it. One of the very cool parts of the A55 is the ability to isolate and turn of seawater to specific downstream applications. (Don’t have to turn off the refrigerator to work on the AC pump)

 

I think we’re a lot safer now. I repaired the stainless manifold and keep as a spare, but would be lothe to return to it. 

 

Keep in mind there is another smaller manifold (of which we also keep a spare) starbord of the seachest that distributes to the main engine, and then to the distribution manifold via a (formerly iffy) looking hose. That manifold could also easily fail. Amel has replacements. 

 

Porter

 

 

Porter McRoberts 

S/V IBIS A54-152

WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206



On Aug 27, 2020, at 3:38 AM, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:



Jamie,

 

I built a new one from off-the-shelf bronze fittings and a short piece of reinforced hose in the middle. Two years on and no problems, and it will be much easier to repair next time as it can be taken apart in the middle before pulling the parts out which is much easier than getting the original out.

 

I would also be interested if anyone else has adopted this solution and how long it has lasted.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Jamie Wendell
Sent: 27 August 2020 14:54
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

 

I want to report a serious issue regarding the raw-water manifold that feeds the refrigerator, anchor wash, AC, and watermaker pumps on my A54. As I was servicing the sea chest strainer and cleaning out the clogged hoses, the nipple connection feeding the refrigerator pump broke off from the manifold. It actually appears to have been cracked already and was essentially sucking in some air with the cooling water. You can tell that when you hear a slight gurgling sound at the discharge thru-hull - initially I thought it was a pump problem related to insufficient cooling water through the main system strainer. Luckily I was on board at the time - if not, seawater may have poured into the engine room relying on only the automatic bilge pump to keep the water out. If the water ingress had been more than the bilge pump could discharge, the boat might have sunk (a very scary thought!).

I removed the manifold - no easy task, as it is buried behind the hoses, wires, and the cockpit scupper. The manifold appears to be made of bronze, but there was some external corrosion evident at the joint between the refrigerator connection and the main manifold tubing. It is likely that the corrosion is far worse inside the manifold, and that is hard to see when there is a lot of muck building up in the tubing. Very probably, the other nipples have similar corrosion issues inside.

So, I am now in the process of trying to replace the seawater manifold. I have 2 options: the first is to replace in kind, either custom built in a local fab shop or ordered through Amel; the second is to build one out of bronze fittings, pipe, and hose sections. I am not sure if any local shops can work with bronze, but I am investigating that possibility first. I am certain that Amel had these things built specifically for the A54 and maybe the SM or even the A55 - I am not sure if it is common to all models, but I question whether Amel could still source a replacement. The advantage to an in-kind replacement is that it would be a drop-in and also be smaller and lighter. The advantage to a manifold built from fittings is that I can install shut-off valves for each feed circuit, allowing me to isolate if there is a problem with one of the systems and retain the other systems in operation while I service the failed system. I like that concept the best, as many times I have to work on one of the feeders, while having to shut down everything to do it via the main in-line valve. By the way, that valve also looks suspect to me and I will be replacing it.

So, I am passing on my experience to the group as a reminder to check this manifold on a periodic basis. It is hard to see internal corrosion, but it is clear that even bronze will eventually fail. Phantom is now 13 years old, so maybe I was due for replacement. Has anyone else had this failure, and if so, what was your best solution to replace? Has anyone attempted to source from Amel?

Thanks,
Jamie Wendell
Phantom, A54 #44


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

<IMG-20190520-WA0006.jpg>


Re: Mobius Strip

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Tom,

That's a boarding step - the mobius twist keeps it open for your foot. Works great in the dinghy or on the side of the boat - just tie it in place with some short stuff.

Cheers, Craig -- SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Sore head?

Thomas Peacock
 

Despite many attaching many warning labels, etc, I continued to bump my head for many years on the way down below. A friend came up with this idea. What really makes it work is that it hangs down several inches, but doesn't hurt if you hit it. 


--
Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay


Mobius Strip

Thomas Peacock
 

While going through the deep part of our cockpit locker, we found this item, left over from the previous owner. We are at a loss as to it's function. Anyone have an idea?



Thanks.
--
Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay


Re: Electric shock from the windlass

Craig Briggs
 
Edited

Hi Paolo,
I see Bill Rouse has assumed you are getting a 220v AC shock whereas I assumed it to be 24v DC. Are you running the generator (or connected to shore power) when you get this shock.
If you are running the generator and you've got 220v AC in the rigging and rails, then you might not want your crew to do the testing, but, instead, get an electrician post haste. If you are not running the generator, go back to my advice.

Added thought: If you are running the generator when this happens, try turning it off (and unplugging from shore if you are plugged in) and see if you still get the shock (a 24v shock only tickles - won't kill like 220v). That would eliminate it being a 220v failure. Odds are this is indeed a 24v fault with an easy fix of cleaning up the connectors. 

Let us know.
Craig  -  SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: Electric shock from the windlass

 

The next step is to get an electrician on the boat ASAP. Your problem is likely that some 220 volt AC device is wired wrong and is sending 220 volts through the earth/bonding system (yellow/green wire). This can be serious. If this is happening when disconnected from shore power and not running the generator, somewhere in the inverter installation is the problem.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 12:51 PM PAOLO CUNEO <pc43ge@...> wrote:

 

Hi all,
For some time now, when I operate the windlass, either from the control in the cockpit or using the switch on the windlass, I have received a significant electric shock if I touch either the shrouds or the guard rail (wet deck, bare feet). I've already called an electrician to no avail (actually for a very quick and superficial check) and I think, at this point, I need the help of the  Amel community.

Keeping in mind that I am practically illiterate in terms of electrical systems, is there anyone who can tell me, step by step, which checks I need to do and in what logical order?

Thank you all 

Paolo Cuneo 
SM 454 Whisper 
Back to Genoa after a conservative (due to COVID) summer cruise


Re: Electric shock from the windlass

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Paolo,

You've most likely got a short between the positive wire and the ground wire inside the windlass housing. Take off the rear windlass cover (where the manual button switches are) by unscrewing the two bolts holding it on. Then inspect the wires and you will probably find some corrosion on the connectors allowing the short. Remove all the wires from the connector(s), clean everything up and reassemble.

Test by having your crew go barefoot and wet and grab the shrouds so you don't get hurt.

Cheers,
Craig  -  SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: New rub rail inserts

Patrick McAneny
 

James, It is sailw32@... 


-----Original Message-----
From: James Cromie via groups.io <jamescromie@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Fri, Aug 28, 2020 12:34 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] New rub rail inserts

Hi Pat - thank you for to your efforts to find the rub rail insert.  I'd like to contact you direct to discuss ordering it - would you please repost your contact, as it didn't seem to be complete in your previous email.

Best,
James
SV Soteria
SM2K. 347
Baranof,
AK

Thanks!

On Aug 28, 2020 6:27 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Joel will not exaggerate! 

Well, Joel does get excited, in a good way, about things dear to him. And, if anyone knows Joel, Amels are very dear to him, and rightfully so! 

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Aug 27, 2020 at 2:33 PM amelforme <jfpottercys@...> wrote:
Joel would never say something so untrue. A new insert might make the boat sell quicker and for a bit more money, but not 15%.
 Craig, I have told you a billion times not to exaggerate...

JOEL F. POTTER
CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST LLC
THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
Office 954-462-5869 

On Aug 27, 2020, at 2:47 PM, Craig Briggs via groups.io <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

Just to add minor notes to Pat McAneny's post, this new insert perfectly matches my old SN insert (identical to the SM insert)  and absolutely looks far better in off-white. Being made of EPDM it will stand up to UV and will not chalk up like the originals. They're made by Techno Rubber Industries in Miami and I visited their plant for an "eyes on" - they're a family business that's the "real deal".  You can Google them for a look-see.

Installation is easily accomplished with a spray bottle of water and dish detergent plus a blunt "pusher". I used a hand held 1/4" socket driver (without a socket) as pusher. Here's a pic - the tool is lying on the deck, but anything similar will work - it does take some force to work the inside edge of the insert down against the outside of the cap rail.

It will take you 5 minutes to remove the old insert - just pry up one end and pull - and about an hour per side to install the new.  Amel carved away the bottom section of the originals in the areas of the chainplates and you'll need to copy that on this new one. 

Before installing the new insert,  I'd recommend taking the time to wash out the empty channel as it really accumulates dirt and then clean and wax the hull and rub rail, patching any gelcoat nicks you may have.

I think it will be a super improvement and Joel says to add 15% to your asking price when you sell. (Well, maybe not an exact quote, but, hey!)

Cheers, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Electric shock from the windlass

PAOLO CUNEO
 

 

Hi all,
For some time now, when I operate the windlass, either from the control in the cockpit or using the switch on the windlass, I have received a significant electric shock if I touch either the shrouds or the guard rail (wet deck, bare feet). I've already called an electrician to no avail (actually for a very quick and superficial check) and I think, at this point, I need the help of the  Amel community.

Keeping in mind that I am practically illiterate in terms of electrical systems, is there anyone who can tell me, step by step, which checks I need to do and in what logical order?

Thank you all 

Paolo Cuneo 
SM 454 Whisper 
Back to Genoa after a conservative (due to COVID) summer cruise


Re: New rub rail inserts

Craig Briggs
 

Hi James,
You can email Pat at sailw32 at aol dot com. 
He and I are coordinating on this so you could also write me at sangaris at aol dot com or just call me on 561.932.9349
Glad to answer any questions.
Craig
--
SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: New rub rail inserts

James Cromie
 

Hi Pat - thank you for to your efforts to find the rub rail insert.  I'd like to contact you direct to discuss ordering it - would you please repost your contact, as it didn't seem to be complete in your previous email.

Best,
James
SV Soteria
SM2K. 347
Baranof,
AK

Thanks!

On Aug 28, 2020 6:27 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Joel will not exaggerate! 

Well, Joel does get excited, in a good way, about things dear to him. And, if anyone knows Joel, Amels are very dear to him, and rightfully so! 

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Aug 27, 2020 at 2:33 PM amelforme <jfpottercys@...> wrote:
Joel would never say something so untrue. A new insert might make the boat sell quicker and for a bit more money, but not 15%.
 Craig, I have told you a billion times not to exaggerate...

JOEL F. POTTER
CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST LLC
THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
Office 954-462-5869 

On Aug 27, 2020, at 2:47 PM, Craig Briggs via groups.io <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

Just to add minor notes to Pat McAneny's post, this new insert perfectly matches my old SN insert (identical to the SM insert)  and absolutely looks far better in off-white. Being made of EPDM it will stand up to UV and will not chalk up like the originals. They're made by Techno Rubber Industries in Miami and I visited their plant for an "eyes on" - they're a family business that's the "real deal".  You can Google them for a look-see.

Installation is easily accomplished with a spray bottle of water and dish detergent plus a blunt "pusher". I used a hand held 1/4" socket driver (without a socket) as pusher. Here's a pic - the tool is lying on the deck, but anything similar will work - it does take some force to work the inside edge of the insert down against the outside of the cap rail.

It will take you 5 minutes to remove the old insert - just pry up one end and pull - and about an hour per side to install the new.  Amel carved away the bottom section of the originals in the areas of the chainplates and you'll need to copy that on this new one. 

Before installing the new insert,  I'd recommend taking the time to wash out the empty channel as it really accumulates dirt and then clean and wax the hull and rub rail, patching any gelcoat nicks you may have.

I think it will be a super improvement and Joel says to add 15% to your asking price when you sell. (Well, maybe not an exact quote, but, hey!)

Cheers, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL



Re: PLEASE CONFIRM FINAL Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.

eric freedman
 

Hi David,
please send me your mailing info.
Thank You,
Eric

On August 28, 2020 at 11:13 AM Alan Grayson <bazgrayson@...> wrote:

Hi Eric, I'll take 1 please
Alan Grayson
SM 406 Ora Pai

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
Sent: Thursday, 27 August 2020 10:36 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] PLEASE CONFIRM FINAL Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.
 

Hi,

I have requests for the exhaust sensors from the following people :

Mark Pitt                           1 piece

Mohammad Shirloo          3 pieces          

Jim Anderson                   1 piece       I need your mailing address

Bob Rossi                         1 piece       I need your mailing address

Vladimir Sonsev               1 piece

 

If there is anyone else who wishes this switch please let me know—I will order on Tuesday.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 


 

 


Re: PLEASE CONFIRM FINAL Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.

Alan Grayson
 

Hi Eric, I'll take 1 please
Alan Grayson
SM 406 Ora Pai


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
Sent: Thursday, 27 August 2020 10:36 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] PLEASE CONFIRM FINAL Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.
 

Hi,

I have requests for the exhaust sensors from the following people :

Mark Pitt                           1 piece

Mohammad Shirloo          3 pieces          

Jim Anderson                   1 piece       I need your mailing address

Bob Rossi                         1 piece       I need your mailing address

Vladimir Sonsev               1 piece

 

If there is anyone else who wishes this switch please let me know—I will order on Tuesday.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 


Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

 

Porter,

This is a photo of the Amel 50 saltwater manifold. If I were you, I would do something like this in PVC:
image.png

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 3:14 AM Porter McRoberts via groups.io <portermcroberts=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Paul. 
We concerns of a plastic manifold...
Or a plastic sea chest with a fire!  
Wow. There are critical concerns with every boat for sure. Or a crack in the Seachest lid!  We have replacements. The boat did not come with one.  After sailing for a while and letting the mind wander I think of all kinds of scenarios. The sea chest lid threads get screwed up....   Extra o rings? We got some but...   One can go on and on. 
You’re line of questioning is a good one. What would Amel say?  

Lets hope we never have an ER fire!  

Porter

Porter McRoberts 
S/V IBIS 
WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206

On Aug 27, 2020, at 1:27 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:



Last paragraph Porter’s Email: attached is the part.

 

April/May 2018 it broke off completely on AMELIT; this is the replacement part I got from AMEL.

I noticed the new unit “sweating” & oxidizing rather quickly; it almost looked like 2 different metals were used. In July/August 2019, in VANUATU, checking & prepping the boat for the trip to the SOLOMONS, my local mechanic Matthieu & I decided to remove this unit completely and replace with a plastic (PVC???) self built unit which has been doing great with no “sweating” at all.

 

When I asked Thierry (AMEL SAV) this was his reply:

 

QUOTE

 

To answer your question this manifold is custom made by Amel . The welding between brass fitting and copper pipe is  carefully done and there is  no risk of leakage.

 

UNQUOTE

 

I have also been planning to redo everything along the A50/60 concept with individual shut off valves for each downstream line.

 

Best Regards Teun

SV AMELIT  A54  #128

 

I am stuck & bored and have been cruising on my motorcycle (March/April) all over BAJA CALIFORNIA 😊 😊 and since June in USA via magnificient State & National Parks on my way to ANNAPOLIS boatshow 😊

 

AMELIT is in storage on the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA and now watched by fellow AMEL owners Sue & Brian MITCHELL (SV LOLA)

August 27, 2020 16:20:07

 

USA cell: +1 832 477 8842

AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909

 

You can follow AMELIT via this link: https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Porter McRoberts via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2020 12:40
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

 

This is indeed a serious issue. 

We had the initial bronze manifold on IBIS. Looked horrible and so when we ordered our arch from Turkey had a stainless replacement manifold constructed. About 2 years ago I changed the bronze one, with significant corrosion to the stainless replacement. One year after replacement upon inspection in NZ I found a small pit and a leak. It was in NZ that I had the resources to build a new manifold out of plastic. I had reservations about the material (plastic vs metal) but recall from an A55 that I believe the stock manifold is plastic on the A55. Encouraged by the chandlery in Opua I built a plastic one. It took a couple of days, a lot of measuring and 5200. I put in isolation valves. I think it is far better than the original. I’d encourage any others who have the resources of a nearby good plumbing chandlery to think about it. One of the very cool parts of the A55 is the ability to isolate and turn of seawater to specific downstream applications. (Don’t have to turn off the refrigerator to work on the AC pump)

 

I think we’re a lot safer now. I repaired the stainless manifold and keep as a spare, but would be lothe to return to it. 

 

Keep in mind there is another smaller manifold (of which we also keep a spare) starbord of the seachest that distributes to the main engine, and then to the distribution manifold via a (formerly iffy) looking hose. That manifold could also easily fail. Amel has replacements. 

 

Porter

 

 

Porter McRoberts 

S/V IBIS A54-152

WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206



On Aug 27, 2020, at 3:38 AM, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:



Jamie,

 

I built a new one from off-the-shelf bronze fittings and a short piece of reinforced hose in the middle. Two years on and no problems, and it will be much easier to repair next time as it can be taken apart in the middle before pulling the parts out which is much easier than getting the original out.

 

I would also be interested if anyone else has adopted this solution and how long it has lasted.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Jamie Wendell
Sent: 27 August 2020 14:54
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

 

I want to report a serious issue regarding the raw-water manifold that feeds the refrigerator, anchor wash, AC, and watermaker pumps on my A54. As I was servicing the sea chest strainer and cleaning out the clogged hoses, the nipple connection feeding the refrigerator pump broke off from the manifold. It actually appears to have been cracked already and was essentially sucking in some air with the cooling water. You can tell that when you hear a slight gurgling sound at the discharge thru-hull - initially I thought it was a pump problem related to insufficient cooling water through the main system strainer. Luckily I was on board at the time - if not, seawater may have poured into the engine room relying on only the automatic bilge pump to keep the water out. If the water ingress had been more than the bilge pump could discharge, the boat might have sunk (a very scary thought!).

I removed the manifold - no easy task, as it is buried behind the hoses, wires, and the cockpit scupper. The manifold appears to be made of bronze, but there was some external corrosion evident at the joint between the refrigerator connection and the main manifold tubing. It is likely that the corrosion is far worse inside the manifold, and that is hard to see when there is a lot of muck building up in the tubing. Very probably, the other nipples have similar corrosion issues inside.

So, I am now in the process of trying to replace the seawater manifold. I have 2 options: the first is to replace in kind, either custom built in a local fab shop or ordered through Amel; the second is to build one out of bronze fittings, pipe, and hose sections. I am not sure if any local shops can work with bronze, but I am investigating that possibility first. I am certain that Amel had these things built specifically for the A54 and maybe the SM or even the A55 - I am not sure if it is common to all models, but I question whether Amel could still source a replacement. The advantage to an in-kind replacement is that it would be a drop-in and also be smaller and lighter. The advantage to a manifold built from fittings is that I can install shut-off valves for each feed circuit, allowing me to isolate if there is a problem with one of the systems and retain the other systems in operation while I service the failed system. I like that concept the best, as many times I have to work on one of the feeders, while having to shut down everything to do it via the main in-line valve. By the way, that valve also looks suspect to me and I will be replacing it.

So, I am passing on my experience to the group as a reminder to check this manifold on a periodic basis. It is hard to see internal corrosion, but it is clear that even bronze will eventually fail. Phantom is now 13 years old, so maybe I was due for replacement. Has anyone else had this failure, and if so, what was your best solution to replace? Has anyone attempted to source from Amel?

Thanks,
Jamie Wendell
Phantom, A54 #44


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

<IMG-20190520-WA0006.jpg>


Re: New rub rail inserts

 

Joel will not exaggerate! 

Well, Joel does get excited, in a good way, about things dear to him. And, if anyone knows Joel, Amels are very dear to him, and rightfully so! 

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Aug 27, 2020 at 2:33 PM amelforme <jfpottercys@...> wrote:
Joel would never say something so untrue. A new insert might make the boat sell quicker and for a bit more money, but not 15%.
 Craig, I have told you a billion times not to exaggerate...

JOEL F. POTTER
CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST LLC
THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
Office 954-462-5869 

On Aug 27, 2020, at 2:47 PM, Craig Briggs via groups.io <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

Just to add minor notes to Pat McAneny's post, this new insert perfectly matches my old SN insert (identical to the SM insert)  and absolutely looks far better in off-white. Being made of EPDM it will stand up to UV and will not chalk up like the originals. They're made by Techno Rubber Industries in Miami and I visited their plant for an "eyes on" - they're a family business that's the "real deal".  You can Google them for a look-see.

Installation is easily accomplished with a spray bottle of water and dish detergent plus a blunt "pusher". I used a hand held 1/4" socket driver (without a socket) as pusher. Here's a pic - the tool is lying on the deck, but anything similar will work - it does take some force to work the inside edge of the insert down against the outside of the cap rail.

It will take you 5 minutes to remove the old insert - just pry up one end and pull - and about an hour per side to install the new.  Amel carved away the bottom section of the originals in the areas of the chainplates and you'll need to copy that on this new one. 

Before installing the new insert,  I'd recommend taking the time to wash out the empty channel as it really accumulates dirt and then clean and wax the hull and rub rail, patching any gelcoat nicks you may have.

I think it will be a super improvement and Joel says to add 15% to your asking price when you sell. (Well, maybe not an exact quote, but, hey!)

Cheers, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: Galley refrigerator not cooling

Barry Connor
 

Hi Paul, 
We are still in Le Marin. Went to the shop upstairs above Caraibe Marine and bought a new fridge door opening latch. The big French man in the shop was nice and recommended the all stainless steel latch instead of the original latch which was part plastic. (The plastic part had broken).His price was the same as advertised online from UK supplier. Easy install by me.
Is this possibly who you are referring to as we are thinking of asking him to check our fridge gas pressure? The gas pipe at the back is freezing up and dropping water on top of the water tank inspection port, then the water runs to under the stair. Mopping it up each morning. Think I have too much gas in the system. I have already Re-claged the pipe in insulation but still freezing up.
Please let me know if you think this is the same man?
We contacted Driftwood about our windscreens but can’t get to Granada, still stuck in Martinique. Thank’s for the contact.
Very Best 

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique 




On Aug 28, 2020, at 04:00, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:



Yes, that’s exactly what happened to me in Le Marin and I fell for it

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Ken Powers SV Aquarius
Sent: 28 August 2020 07:29
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Galley refrigerator not cooling

 

You need to be very careful when cleaning your fridge.  If you get the ice off the plate with something that could puncture the gas lines within the plate, this is not being very careful.  One of my fridges was not working, and actually found a honest refrigeration guy in Tahiti.  He said, yeah I could change some parts, but I don't think that's the problem.  The quick connect links (that only cost a few dollars) usually go bad, so let's change them and fill up back up and run it.  It worked!  Paid for an hour of time, little bit of gas, and two quick connect gaskets...  Still working 2.5 years later....  All for less than $100 dollar bill.  

Now, if you were in Le Marin. there's a 6' 2" French guy that will tell you you need a new refrigerator and installation which cost only $3500.

Cheers,

Ken
Aquarius SM2K #262
Still in Thailand 


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


Re: Galley refrigerator not cooling

Gerhard Mueller
 

@Denis
Correct, some knowledge is always useful. But where to start? Some people knows which way to turn a valve to close or to open, but other ones not.
There are several DIY guides available asking Google.
All refrigerators, airconditioners and other cooling device I have seen in my life have somewhere the needed information either in the manual or at a decal which kind of refrigerant and how many refrigerant (in weight) the system has. For completely refill a system the first important rule is: Refill not too much and not too less. So a professionell use a scale to weight the refrigerant bottle during the fill process.
--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece


Re: Galley refrigerator not cooling

Denis Foster
 

Hello,

Once I had to have a refill by a professional frigorist we did both the fridges and the AC.

i looked at what he was doing all the time, he was very meticulous and took his time which he told me was important to measure accurately the refrigerant filling. 

Having the right equipment is one thing having the knowledge how To do it seems not that simple.

Do you have DIY guide?

Regards 

Denis 
ex Meltem #32


Re: Galley refrigerator not cooling

Gerhard Mueller
 

I have had the same problem after a long hot weather period. My fridge has 2 compartments, one for freeze goods (-18 °C) and one normal goods (0-5 °C) but one compressor for both.
The normal cooling compartment becomes too warm (about +20°C) and the compressor was getting hot. The freeze compartment was still at -15°C. All this is a sign of too less cooling liquid (R134a).
So I ordered a refrigeration service who refilled a little bit R134a liquid and it worked again as it should.
You can do it yourself if you have the correct equipment and a bottle of R134a or other refrigerant your fridge has.
If however your cooling system might have a leak and all refrigerant is gone first the leak must repaired. There are chemicals available to detect leaks.
Then before refilling the cooling system it must be evacuated with a vaccum pump. A service kit together with a vacuum pump is not very expensive:
https://www.amazon.com/AUTOGEN-Portable-Refrigeration-Manifold-Conditioning/dp/B07XXP659P/ref=sr_1_16?crid=3D4BZWQ9XEYJ0&dchild=1&keywords=r134a+refrigerant+kit&qid=1598607191&sprefix=R134%2Caps%2C310&sr=8-16
When sailing in areas where is no service man available it is worth to buy such a kit.

--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece


Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

Porter McRoberts
 

Paul. 
We concerns of a plastic manifold...
Or a plastic sea chest with a fire!  
Wow. There are critical concerns with every boat for sure. Or a crack in the Seachest lid!  We have replacements. The boat did not come with one.  After sailing for a while and letting the mind wander I think of all kinds of scenarios. The sea chest lid threads get screwed up....   Extra o rings? We got some but...   One can go on and on. 
You’re line of questioning is a good one. What would Amel say?  

Lets hope we never have an ER fire!  

Porter

Porter McRoberts 
S/V IBIS 
WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206
Www.fouribis.net

On Aug 27, 2020, at 1:27 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:



Last paragraph Porter’s Email: attached is the part.

 

April/May 2018 it broke off completely on AMELIT; this is the replacement part I got from AMEL.

I noticed the new unit “sweating” & oxidizing rather quickly; it almost looked like 2 different metals were used. In July/August 2019, in VANUATU, checking & prepping the boat for the trip to the SOLOMONS, my local mechanic Matthieu & I decided to remove this unit completely and replace with a plastic (PVC???) self built unit which has been doing great with no “sweating” at all.

 

When I asked Thierry (AMEL SAV) this was his reply:

 

QUOTE

 

To answer your question this manifold is custom made by Amel . The welding between brass fitting and copper pipe is  carefully done and there is  no risk of leakage.

 

UNQUOTE

 

I have also been planning to redo everything along the A50/60 concept with individual shut off valves for each downstream line.

 

Best Regards Teun

SV AMELIT  A54  #128

 

I am stuck & bored and have been cruising on my motorcycle (March/April) all over BAJA CALIFORNIA 😊 😊 and since June in USA via magnificient State & National Parks on my way to ANNAPOLIS boatshow 😊

 

AMELIT is in storage on the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA and now watched by fellow AMEL owners Sue & Brian MITCHELL (SV LOLA)

August 27, 2020 16:20:07

 

USA cell: +1 832 477 8842

AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909

 

You can follow AMELIT via this link: https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Porter McRoberts via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2020 12:40
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

 

This is indeed a serious issue. 

We had the initial bronze manifold on IBIS. Looked horrible and so when we ordered our arch from Turkey had a stainless replacement manifold constructed. About 2 years ago I changed the bronze one, with significant corrosion to the stainless replacement. One year after replacement upon inspection in NZ I found a small pit and a leak. It was in NZ that I had the resources to build a new manifold out of plastic. I had reservations about the material (plastic vs metal) but recall from an A55 that I believe the stock manifold is plastic on the A55. Encouraged by the chandlery in Opua I built a plastic one. It took a couple of days, a lot of measuring and 5200. I put in isolation valves. I think it is far better than the original. I’d encourage any others who have the resources of a nearby good plumbing chandlery to think about it. One of the very cool parts of the A55 is the ability to isolate and turn of seawater to specific downstream applications. (Don’t have to turn off the refrigerator to work on the AC pump)

 

I think we’re a lot safer now. I repaired the stainless manifold and keep as a spare, but would be lothe to return to it. 

 

Keep in mind there is another smaller manifold (of which we also keep a spare) starbord of the seachest that distributes to the main engine, and then to the distribution manifold via a (formerly iffy) looking hose. That manifold could also easily fail. Amel has replacements. 

 

Porter

 

 

Porter McRoberts 

S/V IBIS A54-152

WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206



On Aug 27, 2020, at 3:38 AM, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:



Jamie,

 

I built a new one from off-the-shelf bronze fittings and a short piece of reinforced hose in the middle. Two years on and no problems, and it will be much easier to repair next time as it can be taken apart in the middle before pulling the parts out which is much easier than getting the original out.

 

I would also be interested if anyone else has adopted this solution and how long it has lasted.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Jamie Wendell
Sent: 27 August 2020 14:54
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

 

I want to report a serious issue regarding the raw-water manifold that feeds the refrigerator, anchor wash, AC, and watermaker pumps on my A54. As I was servicing the sea chest strainer and cleaning out the clogged hoses, the nipple connection feeding the refrigerator pump broke off from the manifold. It actually appears to have been cracked already and was essentially sucking in some air with the cooling water. You can tell that when you hear a slight gurgling sound at the discharge thru-hull - initially I thought it was a pump problem related to insufficient cooling water through the main system strainer. Luckily I was on board at the time - if not, seawater may have poured into the engine room relying on only the automatic bilge pump to keep the water out. If the water ingress had been more than the bilge pump could discharge, the boat might have sunk (a very scary thought!).

I removed the manifold - no easy task, as it is buried behind the hoses, wires, and the cockpit scupper. The manifold appears to be made of bronze, but there was some external corrosion evident at the joint between the refrigerator connection and the main manifold tubing. It is likely that the corrosion is far worse inside the manifold, and that is hard to see when there is a lot of muck building up in the tubing. Very probably, the other nipples have similar corrosion issues inside.

So, I am now in the process of trying to replace the seawater manifold. I have 2 options: the first is to replace in kind, either custom built in a local fab shop or ordered through Amel; the second is to build one out of bronze fittings, pipe, and hose sections. I am not sure if any local shops can work with bronze, but I am investigating that possibility first. I am certain that Amel had these things built specifically for the A54 and maybe the SM or even the A55 - I am not sure if it is common to all models, but I question whether Amel could still source a replacement. The advantage to an in-kind replacement is that it would be a drop-in and also be smaller and lighter. The advantage to a manifold built from fittings is that I can install shut-off valves for each feed circuit, allowing me to isolate if there is a problem with one of the systems and retain the other systems in operation while I service the failed system. I like that concept the best, as many times I have to work on one of the feeders, while having to shut down everything to do it via the main in-line valve. By the way, that valve also looks suspect to me and I will be replacing it.

So, I am passing on my experience to the group as a reminder to check this manifold on a periodic basis. It is hard to see internal corrosion, but it is clear that even bronze will eventually fail. Phantom is now 13 years old, so maybe I was due for replacement. Has anyone else had this failure, and if so, what was your best solution to replace? Has anyone attempted to source from Amel?

Thanks,
Jamie Wendell
Phantom, A54 #44


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

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