Date   

Re: A54 watermaker/Fresh water pump issue

Alexander Hofmann
 

Hi Chris,

 

difficult to have a clear diagnosis from remote, the system is complex. I tell you 2 experiences with the rinsing of the Watermaker (I have a 160 l/h Duo 230V / 24V) – and a similar topic.

 

  1. I had an non-stopping rinse of the watermaker 2 years ago half way from Canaries to Azores, leading to … zero litres of water in the fresh water tank. Not funny. I could resolve the problem in phone contact with Fréderic Quintard from Nautic Elec, the experienced electrician in La Rochelle. The magnetic valve for opening and closing the fresh water provisioning for the watermaker rinse process has been dirty and did not word, means stayed OPEN for an endless rinsing, until the fresh water tank was fully empty. Hopefully I have had already installed a simple hand valve in the fresh water provisioning tube before the watermaker. So I could close that, run the watermaker again, and had new fresh water. Later on I did replace the magnetic valve and cleaned the old one in an ultrasonic bath, is like new now. There is limescale deposit – and any dirt out of the freshwater system - in the valve. This may cause your problems you have described in opening and closing partly and in a not reliable and understandable way or – as in my case – stays open completely.

This is why

  • I have an extra magnetic valve on board,
  • I would recommend to any Amel owner to install such a simple hand valve in the fresh water provisioning tube before the watermaker.
  • Additionally I have a cheap ultrasonic cleaner bath now onboard, many parts can be cleaned and re-set into function.
  • When I am longer time off any marina (what I love!) and I use the watermaker daily I close this hand valve and refrain from any rinsing. I do that any 1 – 2 weeks once, or until the watermaker tells you he wants rinsing care because the pressure for switching from ‘bad’ to ‘good’ rises. Dessalator even advices to do so. Rinsing every time is definitely not needed! Dessalator watermakers love to work daily!

 

  1. The same problem with a dirty magnetic valve happened to me with the toilets heads. The valve did not close and the fresh water was flooding the toilet and the heads – in emptying the fresh water tank rapidly.

This is why

  • I would recommend to any Amel owner to install also a simple hand valve in the fresh water provisioning tube for the toilets in the heads.

 

Costs ( as my French friends say) three times nothing but prevent unpleasant situations.

 

All the best. Fairs seas and lovely tail winds!

 

Alexander

SY Oceanica I, Amel54#156

 

 


Re: A54 watermaker/Fresh water pump issue

Martin Birkhoff
 

Hi Chris,
I think youre right about the solenoid. We had the same issue a year ago. The fresh water pump did run every 15 minutes. For weeks we were looking for a leakage without any success. Finally we figured out that the solenoid didn´t close properly. Because we don´t use the watermaker currently I didn´t clean the solenoid but  added a manual valve to stop the water flow if needed. The pic shows the valve beneath the 24V cover.

Martin

Mago del Sur - 54#40


Re: Hint for automatically saving your tag line information on these forums #Wiki

Dean Gillies
 

On Fri, Apr 30, 2021 at 02:32 AM, Brent Cameron wrote:
 From there you will see all of your default tag lines for each of the Groups.IO forums
Hi Brent, I liked your suggestion, but it doesn't work for me.  I don't see any "tag lines" to edit on that Identity screen. When I go into the Amel forum "Edit" screen then there is nothing like tags there either. I saw "Bio", so tried adding it there, but that doesn't appear on a post when I create it.  Any other clues ?
Cheers
Dean, SV Stella
A54-154 


Re: A54 watermaker/Fresh water pump issue

Porter McRoberts
 

I think you’re right about the solenoid. Ours also stuck open several years ago. It has to be physically taken apart, cleaned with Emory cloth and then reassembled. That was 3 years ago for us. Been working fine since. But yes. Turn off the fresh h20 pump and do the job then re assemble. Should be fine I think. 


Some of the watermaker Jedi may have additional thoughts for you. 

Best of luck. 





Porter McRoberts 
S/V IBIS A54-152
WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206
Www.fouribis.net

On Apr 29, 2021, at 4:16 PM, Chris Likins <likinsca@...> wrote:



Hi All,

I just started having a new issue with my fresh water pump. Ill start by saying I have Amel54 #133 with 180l/h dessalator wm. I recently ran our water maker as normal. After shutdown it began to auto rinse with freshwater however, after 2 minutes I noticed that the lights on the dessalator panel had gone out but the freshwater pump was still running continuously. When the freshwater pump is manually shut off at the breaker the pressure immediately drops off just as if a tap were open. 

At first I thought it might be a leak somewhere but I found none. I now believe it has something to do with the rinsing of the water maker. As soon as I turn the watermaker on and the low pressure pump comes on, the freshwater pump immediately shuts off and behaves normally. 


For a manual rinse, we have a valve handle on the back side of the low pressure pump to open and allow fresh water through the system. When I open this valve, I can see the freshwater discharge overboard however, with this valve closed and the pump stuck on continuously there is NO discharge overboard which has me a bit confused.

My thoughts are that the auto rinse system is stuck ON via the solenoid at the pre-filters but if that were the case, I would think I would be seeing the freshwater discharging overboard. Is there a way to manually close that solenoid to test? 

 

Any other thoughts on where I should be checking?

 

Thanks in advance!

 


A54 watermaker/Fresh water pump issue

Chris Likins
 

Hi All,

I just started having a new issue with my fresh water pump. Ill start by saying I have Amel54 #133 with 180l/h dessalator wm. I recently ran our water maker as normal. After shutdown it began to auto rinse with freshwater however, after 2 minutes I noticed that the lights on the dessalator panel had gone out but the freshwater pump was still running continuously. When the freshwater pump is manually shut off at the breaker the pressure immediately drops off just as if a tap were open. 

At first I thought it might be a leak somewhere but I found none. I now believe it has something to do with the rinsing of the water maker. As soon as I turn the watermaker on and the low pressure pump comes on, the freshwater pump immediately shuts off and behaves normally. 


For a manual rinse, we have a valve handle on the back side of the low pressure pump to open and allow fresh water through the system. When I open this valve, I can see the freshwater discharge overboard however, with this valve closed and the pump stuck on continuously there is NO discharge overboard which has me a bit confused.

My thoughts are that the auto rinse system is stuck ON via the solenoid at the pre-filters but if that were the case, I would think I would be seeing the freshwater discharging overboard. Is there a way to manually close that solenoid to test? 

 

Any other thoughts on where I should be checking?

 

Thanks in advance!

 


Re: Who can guess what this is

Arthur Sundqvist
 

It is the saloon table extension!
/A

29 apr. 2021 kl. 07:35 skrev Mark Garver via groups.io <mgarver@...>:

Greetings! This has been in the front hanging locker and I only saw part of it and had thought it was the small cockpit table. Today, I pulled it out and I have no idea what this is for. The stainless “legs” do not move and look like they are meant to be inserted/installed in something, somewhere. Anyone have the answer?

<IMG_6812.jpeg>


Pipe feeding heating in main rear cabin

Nicolas Klene
 

Hi all 
After a cold winter on board ,I would like to install for the next one , heating through pulsed air in the main cabin.
For that I need to have a stainless steel pipe going through the rear head built. I have the plan from Amel but a few pictures of how it does look like would be helpful.
thank you in advance if someone can help 
fair winds 
Nicolas
--
Nicolas Klene
DarNico
SM2K # 471
In Marseille


Re: Rubber mount of C-drive with keel

Ian Park
 

Bill,
Just replacing mine (Santorin), 1" boss fits fine. Question is what length. The old one is shorter than the ! length of the sleeve, but this may be wear a d compression.
I am assuming it should be cut to the same length as the sleeve. Right of wrong?  Any advice gratefully receivec, otherwise it will be 'suck it and see'.

Thanks

Ian 'Ocean Hobo'


Hint for automatically saving your tag line information on these forums #Wiki

Brent Cameron
 

I've noticed over the years that a lot of people forget to post their boat name, model and location after their posts and this generally results in someone else asking for the same information in order to be able to help solve their issue.  This forum has a good feature in that you can save your 'tag line' information so that it automatically appends it to the end of every post no matter if you forget to append it or not.    To do this, you need to be on the web version of the forum (if you get these notices by email, simply click on one of the links (e.g. View/Reply online)), and then select your name in the top right corner, and then select "Account" from the drop down, and then "Identity" over on the panel to the left.  From there you will see all of your default tag lines for each of the Groups.IO forums that you subscribe to (e.g. AmelYachtOwners/Main, AmelYachtOwners/BoatsForSale, etc) and you can "Edit" each one of them to suit.    Best of all, it seems to go back in time and fix up all of your previous posts (without sending new emails to all of the subscribing members).  Hope this helps. 
--
Brent Cameron

Future Amel Owner & Amel Owner Registry Moderator

Oro-Medonte, Ontario, Canada


Re: Motor for raising and lowering thruster

Kaplan,Andre
 

Thank you,
 Doug
One of my problems is that my bow thruster is a 12 volt system... based on your experience I will try to have it refurbished.
Andre
Renaissance 2000
Mango 7188
Westbrook, CT 



On Apr 29, 2021, at 11:19 AM, Doug Smith via groups.io <dugsmith98@...> wrote:


*** Attention: This is an external email. Use caution responding, opening attachments or clicking on links. ***

Andre,

My bow thruster on the 54, failed on the lifting motor.  I went through an extensive search for the lifting motor for the bow thruster motor on my 54. Amel was only able to source the entire linear actuator, which was going to be about $1400 USD. I then reached out to the motor manufacturer, and was referred to the SNT group Bill is referring to and listed on the motor itself.  I emailed snt.contact@... like the motor says to get a replacement, and they referred me to larochelle@.... I was never able to get a response from them. I was able to download the actuator specs for my linear actuator, the ACLE 108.  Different from yours, but when you identify which yours is, it should be listed with the specs in the attached PDF. 

Mine showed the lifting RPMs, (3000), nominal torque, 0.22 Nm, (1.95 in-lbs); Max torque – 1.1 Nm (9.75 in-lbs). Shaft diameter is also on the drawing.  Then I went on eBay and there was an abundance of different 24 VDC motors to choose from that make that type of motor. The real challenge will be to find one with the mounting holes that are aligned similarly to your specific thruster lift cylinder.

At the end of the day, I ended up taking mine apart, cleaning the internal commutator, and brushes, and was able to get it working again.  If you haven’t tried that, it was a pretty easy disassembly.

 

 

Doug Smith

S/V Aventura, Amel 54-113

White Point, VA USA

 

From: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Reply-To: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Date: Thursday, April 29, 2021 at 10:39 AM
To: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification" <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Motor for raising and lowering thruster

 

I am not sure if the Actuator in the Mago is the same as the SM which is 24 volts, but this info may help you. The SM actuator is Model Number: ACLE105 and made by:

SNT
2 rue Marcel DASSAULT
ZI de la Croix St Nicolas
94510 La queue en brie, France
Email: snt.contact@... or
secretariat@...
https://www.snt.tm.fr/fr

<image001.png>

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

 

View My Training Calendar

 

 

On Thu, Apr 29, 2021 at 1:08 AM Kaplan,Andre <kaplan@...> wrote:

To all,

I have a 1989 Mango and the motor that raises and lowers thruster propeller appears to be dead. Does anyone know where to source such a motor?

 

Andre Kaplan 

Renaissance 2000

Mango 71 88

 

 


Begin forwarded message:

From: "Paul Stascavage via groups.io" <pstas2003=yahoo.com@groups.io>
Date: April 27, 2021 at 11:15:57 PM EDT
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Passageway berth wall fabric cleaning advice
Reply-To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io



*** Attention: This is an external email. Use caution responding, opening attachments or clicking on links. ***

Paul,

We spent much of this past winter in cold weather climates and that area was one of the first we noticed the mold stains.  We tried vinegar as well as many other products, but the only one that worked for us on that material, in a timely fashion, was Tilex (which contains a significant amount of bleach).  Spray it on with a good deal of ventilation and wait a few hours.  Dry the area with a fan to get rid of the bleach odors.  Repeat if necessary. That material is colorfast but the bleach will lighten the color a bit as it bleaches out old dirt and grime.  We had to treat the entire area to end up with a uniformly clean surface.

Something else that we found that works on fabric and carpet (but takes a good deal of time) is what piratical sailor (https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/fighting-mildew-mold-and-lichen) calls formula b:

2 tablespoons of baking soda
2 tablespoons of borax
1 tablespoon of trisodiumphosphate (TSP)

Mix in 1 quart of warm water with stirring.

What  worked for us on fabric and carpet is to spray the area with the formula b and let sit for a few days.  Come back with vinegar and a brush.  Repeat until the stains are completely gone, which could be 3 or 4 applications. 

If you spent a good deal of time under those conditions, I suggest looking around the boat for other potentially impacted areas.

Cabinets, lockers, closets, under berths, etc. Any areas close to the hull is where there would have been excessive condensation and possibly a problem.

We just completed an extensive cleaning of the boat from stem to stern.  Feel free to email me (paul dot stascavage at icloud dot com) if you find your problem is more extensive than you thought and I will share what I have learned.

All the best,

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Exploring Brunswick, GA

www.RitaKathryn.com

<ACLE à vis Trapézoïdale.pdf>
<Screen Shot 2021-04-29 at 11.10.28 AM.png>
<image001.png>


Re: Motor for raising and lowering thruster

Doug Smith
 

Andre,

My bow thruster on the 54, failed on the lifting motor.  I went through an extensive search for the lifting motor for the bow thruster motor on my 54. Amel was only able to source the entire linear actuator, which was going to be about $1400 USD. I then reached out to the motor manufacturer, and was referred to the SNT group Bill is referring to and listed on the motor itself.  I emailed snt.contact@... like the motor says to get a replacement, and they referred me to larochelle@.... I was never able to get a response from them. I was able to download the actuator specs for my linear actuator, the ACLE 108.  Different from yours, but when you identify which yours is, it should be listed with the specs in the attached PDF. 

Mine showed the lifting RPMs, (3000), nominal torque, 0.22 Nm, (1.95 in-lbs); Max torque – 1.1 Nm (9.75 in-lbs). Shaft diameter is also on the drawing.  Then I went on eBay and there was an abundance of different 24 VDC motors to choose from that make that type of motor. The real challenge will be to find one with the mounting holes that are aligned similarly to your specific thruster lift cylinder.

At the end of the day, I ended up taking mine apart, cleaning the internal commutator, and brushes, and was able to get it working again.  If you haven’t tried that, it was a pretty easy disassembly.

 

 

Doug Smith

S/V Aventura, Amel 54-113

White Point, VA USA

 

From: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Reply-To: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Date: Thursday, April 29, 2021 at 10:39 AM
To: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification" <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Motor for raising and lowering thruster

 

I am not sure if the Actuator in the Mago is the same as the SM which is 24 volts, but this info may help you. The SM actuator is Model Number: ACLE105 and made by:

SNT
2 rue Marcel DASSAULT
ZI de la Croix St Nicolas
94510 La queue en brie, France
Email: snt.contact@... or
secretariat@...
https://www.snt.tm.fr/fr
image.png

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

 

View My Training Calendar

 

 

On Thu, Apr 29, 2021 at 1:08 AM Kaplan,Andre <kaplan@...> wrote:

To all,

I have a 1989 Mango and the motor that raises and lowers thruster propeller appears to be dead. Does anyone know where to source such a motor?

 

Andre Kaplan 

Renaissance 2000

Mango 71 88

 

 


Begin forwarded message:

From: "Paul Stascavage via groups.io" <pstas2003=yahoo.com@groups.io>
Date: April 27, 2021 at 11:15:57 PM EDT
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Passageway berth wall fabric cleaning advice
Reply-To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io



*** Attention: This is an external email. Use caution responding, opening attachments or clicking on links. ***

Paul,

We spent much of this past winter in cold weather climates and that area was one of the first we noticed the mold stains.  We tried vinegar as well as many other products, but the only one that worked for us on that material, in a timely fashion, was Tilex (which contains a significant amount of bleach).  Spray it on with a good deal of ventilation and wait a few hours.  Dry the area with a fan to get rid of the bleach odors.  Repeat if necessary. That material is colorfast but the bleach will lighten the color a bit as it bleaches out old dirt and grime.  We had to treat the entire area to end up with a uniformly clean surface.

Something else that we found that works on fabric and carpet (but takes a good deal of time) is what piratical sailor (https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/fighting-mildew-mold-and-lichen) calls formula b:

2 tablespoons of baking soda
2 tablespoons of borax
1 tablespoon of trisodiumphosphate (TSP)

Mix in 1 quart of warm water with stirring.

What  worked for us on fabric and carpet is to spray the area with the formula b and let sit for a few days.  Come back with vinegar and a brush.  Repeat until the stains are completely gone, which could be 3 or 4 applications. 

If you spent a good deal of time under those conditions, I suggest looking around the boat for other potentially impacted areas.

Cabinets, lockers, closets, under berths, etc. Any areas close to the hull is where there would have been excessive condensation and possibly a problem.

We just completed an extensive cleaning of the boat from stem to stern.  Feel free to email me (paul dot stascavage at icloud dot com) if you find your problem is more extensive than you thought and I will share what I have learned.

All the best,

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Exploring Brunswick, GA

www.RitaKathryn.com


Re: Motor for raising and lowering thruster

Kaplan,Andre
 

Bill,
In fact it’s a 12 volt system. I will inquire if they make a 12 volt model
Thank you, Bill



On Apr 29, 2021, at 10:39 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


*** Attention: This is an external email. Use caution responding, opening attachments or clicking on links. ***
I am not sure if the Actuator in the Mago is the same as the SM which is 24 volts, but this info may help you. The SM actuator is Model Number: ACLE105 and made by:
SNT
2 rue Marcel DASSAULT
ZI de la Croix St Nicolas
94510 La queue en brie, France
Email: snt.contact@... or
secretariat@...
https://www.snt.tm.fr/fr
<image.png>

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Apr 29, 2021 at 1:08 AM Kaplan,Andre <kaplan@...> wrote:
To all,
I have a 1989 Mango and the motor that raises and lowers thruster propeller appears to be dead. Does anyone know where to source such a motor?

Andre Kaplan 
Renaissance 2000
Mango 71 88




Begin forwarded message:

From: "Paul Stascavage via groups.io" <pstas2003=yahoo.com@groups.io>
Date: April 27, 2021 at 11:15:57 PM EDT
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Passageway berth wall fabric cleaning advice
Reply-To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io


*** Attention: This is an external email. Use caution responding, opening attachments or clicking on links. ***
Paul,

We spent much of this past winter in cold weather climates and that area was one of the first we noticed the mold stains.  We tried vinegar as well as many other products, but the only one that worked for us on that material, in a timely fashion, was Tilex (which contains a significant amount of bleach).  Spray it on with a good deal of ventilation and wait a few hours.  Dry the area with a fan to get rid of the bleach odors.  Repeat if necessary. That material is colorfast but the bleach will lighten the color a bit as it bleaches out old dirt and grime.  We had to treat the entire area to end up with a uniformly clean surface.

Something else that we found that works on fabric and carpet (but takes a good deal of time) is what piratical sailor (https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/fighting-mildew-mold-and-lichen) calls formula b:

2 tablespoons of baking soda
2 tablespoons of borax
1 tablespoon of trisodiumphosphate (TSP)

Mix in 1 quart of warm water with stirring.

What  worked for us on fabric and carpet is to spray the area with the formula b and let sit for a few days.  Come back with vinegar and a brush.  Repeat until the stains are completely gone, which could be 3 or 4 applications. 

If you spent a good deal of time under those conditions, I suggest looking around the boat for other potentially impacted areas.

Cabinets, lockers, closets, under berths, etc. Any areas close to the hull is where there would have been excessive condensation and possibly a problem.

We just completed an extensive cleaning of the boat from stem to stern.  Feel free to email me (paul dot stascavage at icloud dot com) if you find your problem is more extensive than you thought and I will share what I have learned.

All the best,

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Exploring Brunswick, GA

www.RitaKathryn.com


Re: Insurance

Matt & Michelle Day, SM#208 SV Talia
 

Billy,

After multiple quotes and sticker shock, Bill helped me find Manifest Marine.  Elliott (540-834-8435) took the time to understand where I was planning to spend the next 12 months and quote a policy that matched my needs.  We are paying less than your original policy and are covered for the East Coast to Bermuda.  This works fine for us in the near term, and we save some bank.  Maybe worth a call to him.

Matt
SV Talia 
SM#208


Re: Cockpit cusions measurement

 

Be careful, the shape is not at 90-degree angles. 
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Apr 29, 2021 at 2:17 AM Arnold Mente via groups.io <Arnold.mente=me.com@groups.io> wrote:
Dear ALL,

I would need the measurement of the seats in the cockpit, I am not sure done it right and now fare away of may boat.
Thank you for answer!


--
Arnold
SY Zephyr SM203


Re: Motor for raising and lowering thruster

 

I am not sure if the Actuator in the Mago is the same as the SM which is 24 volts, but this info may help you. The SM actuator is Model Number: ACLE105 and made by:
SNT
2 rue Marcel DASSAULT
ZI de la Croix St Nicolas
94510 La queue en brie, France
Email: snt.contact@... or
secretariat@...
https://www.snt.tm.fr/fr
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Apr 29, 2021 at 1:08 AM Kaplan,Andre <kaplan@...> wrote:
To all,
I have a 1989 Mango and the motor that raises and lowers thruster propeller appears to be dead. Does anyone know where to source such a motor?

Andre Kaplan 
Renaissance 2000
Mango 71 88




Begin forwarded message:

From: "Paul Stascavage via groups.io" <pstas2003=yahoo.com@groups.io>
Date: April 27, 2021 at 11:15:57 PM EDT
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Passageway berth wall fabric cleaning advice
Reply-To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io


*** Attention: This is an external email. Use caution responding, opening attachments or clicking on links. ***
Paul,

We spent much of this past winter in cold weather climates and that area was one of the first we noticed the mold stains.  We tried vinegar as well as many other products, but the only one that worked for us on that material, in a timely fashion, was Tilex (which contains a significant amount of bleach).  Spray it on with a good deal of ventilation and wait a few hours.  Dry the area with a fan to get rid of the bleach odors.  Repeat if necessary. That material is colorfast but the bleach will lighten the color a bit as it bleaches out old dirt and grime.  We had to treat the entire area to end up with a uniformly clean surface.

Something else that we found that works on fabric and carpet (but takes a good deal of time) is what piratical sailor (https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/fighting-mildew-mold-and-lichen) calls formula b:

2 tablespoons of baking soda
2 tablespoons of borax
1 tablespoon of trisodiumphosphate (TSP)

Mix in 1 quart of warm water with stirring.

What  worked for us on fabric and carpet is to spray the area with the formula b and let sit for a few days.  Come back with vinegar and a brush.  Repeat until the stains are completely gone, which could be 3 or 4 applications. 

If you spent a good deal of time under those conditions, I suggest looking around the boat for other potentially impacted areas.

Cabinets, lockers, closets, under berths, etc. Any areas close to the hull is where there would have been excessive condensation and possibly a problem.

We just completed an extensive cleaning of the boat from stem to stern.  Feel free to email me (paul dot stascavage at icloud dot com) if you find your problem is more extensive than you thought and I will share what I have learned.

All the best,

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Exploring Brunswick, GA

www.RitaKathryn.com


Re: Insurance

eric freedman
 

Hi,

What model Amel do you have?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Billy Newport
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 2021 10:39 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Insurance

 

I got my surprise from Boat US today. I'm moving my Amel from NJ to NJ, literally 20 miles to a different marina and my annual premium went from 3.7K to 11.4K. No good reason for this rise, "crime", "could be more exposed to weather" etc. Shopping around now.


Re: Deck hatch dogs reinforcements

eric freedman
 

Pierre,

Thank you !

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Pierre Blouin
Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2021 2:05 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Deck hatch dogs reinforcements

 

Hi Eric,
Yes, had those made at machine shop.
Rough measurements: 2 5/16 widest; 1 1/2 height; 3/16 thickness

I asked the shop to make another sample but using SS 316, and thinner. (Thanks Bill Reynolds, good idea)
I'll share picture once I have it.
To all of those who have reached out to me with orders, thanks for your patience, I will get back to you all. I think it's worth checking out how it looks in SS.

-Pierre
SV Viva, #374
Portland, OR


Re: Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Thank you Bill

 

I have not seen something similar in the AMEL 54 Unser’s Manual not in the AMEL Owner’s Guide.

Nevertheless your information is welcomed and a good starting point, and I will take out one before ordering so I’m sure.

 

Best regards

Ruedi

 

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> im Auftrag von CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Mittwoch, 28. April 2021 um 23:48
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block

 

Ruedi,

 

The issue is that so many things changed during the production of the 54, I cannot be sure, but I know the 54 started with 6 each Vetus K50 motor mounts as shown in the Amel 54 Users Manual.

 

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

 

View My Training Calendar

 

 

On Wed, Apr 28, 2021 at 4:36 PM Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:

Dear Amelians

 

I’m in the process to change Engine Mounts and not sure what type or brand of Mounts where originally used on the A54 with the Volvo D3-110.

Somebody told me that Amel used on the Amel54 with the Volvo D3-110C the Volvo Mounts. I’m not sure and can’t identify which type and brand are installed on Wasabi.

 

Maybe somebody knows which model/type originally are installed. Otherwise I’m confident that Bill Rouse knows it. 😉

@Bill; I haven’t found any reference in your AMEL School Book.

 

Best regards

Ruedi

SY WASABI

A54 #55

 

 

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> im Auftrag von Herbert Lackner <herbert@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Sonntag, 9. Februar 2020 um 11:01
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block

 

Woody,  search for "alignment" in the forum and you will find a lot of information, also what kind of mounts you need

a summary with info from Olivier:
 

in order to re-align your engine with the C-drive, you need a fixed coupling as on the pictures and drawing.

You don't need to install the shaft alternator pulley while checking alignment. 

 

Before touching the tools, make pictures and take notes (measurements of all the fittings, position of the nuts on the rubber mounts, position of the engine on the steel cradle, position of the shaft brake disc, etc...).

Start with disconnecting the hoses that could prevent you from moving the engine backwards on its cradle.

Then undo the coupling bolts and the engine steel supports' bolts (attaching the engine on the steel cradle).

Then move the engine backwards enough to remove the coupling bolts.

 

Then comes the alignment process.

AMEL uses a tool which is a steel coupling machined so that its aft side "enters" the gear-box flange (see pictures and drawing). You can also pre-install the new coupling and adjust the position of the mounts.

First bring the engine forward and make sure the coupling is centered with the gear-box flange, and can enter the gap in the flange. 

Then move the engine a little bit backwards and check that the gap between the flange and the aft side of the coupler is even all around the circumference. To adjust this, you need "thickness wedges" (used in the automotive industry) and play with the rubber mounts nuts to make the gap even.

Then bring the engine forward and tighten the bolts on the cradle and on the mounts.

 

The advantage of using the tool AMEL uses is that it is easier to install while checking the gaps.

If you need to make one, here's a drawing of the alignment tool for a YANMAR 4JH3-HTE.

The inside diameter (C-drive input shaft) is 35 mm.

The outside diameter is 100 mm.

The diameter of the part that enters the gear-box flange cylindric gap is 62.8 mm, thickness 3 mm.

 

You should use a VETUS fixed coupling for 35mm shafts, then have it machined to make the 62.8mm "plug" and drilled for the four bolts that should match the flange holes.


The process is the same for Santorins or for Super Maramus.


more info from me: 
* Amel does not sell the alignment tool, I had it made by a machine shop from Aluminium
* I would change also the C-Drive mounts when you change the engine mounts.
* Make sure that the c-drive is "open" and "sits on his rubber sleeve" before you do the engine alignment.
* I used a tool like this to lift the engine https://www.expondo.at/steinberg-systems-kettenzug-2-000-kg-3-m-10030374?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw9i79ZrE5wIVFuDtCh07Aw33EAQYAiABEgKPs_D_BwE . the job can be done by one person

fair winds, herbert
SN120


Cockpit cusions measurement

Arnold Mente
 

Dear ALL,

I would need the measurement of the seats in the cockpit, I am not sure done it right and now fare away of may boat.
Thank you for answer!


--
Arnold
SY Zephyr SM203


Motor for raising and lowering thruster

Kaplan,Andre
 

To all,
I have a 1989 Mango and the motor that raises and lowers thruster propeller appears to be dead. Does anyone know where to source such a motor?

Andre Kaplan 
Renaissance 2000
Mango 71 88




Begin forwarded message:

From: "Paul Stascavage via groups.io" <pstas2003@...>
Date: April 27, 2021 at 11:15:57 PM EDT
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Passageway berth wall fabric cleaning advice
Reply-To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io


*** Attention: This is an external email. Use caution responding, opening attachments or clicking on links. ***
Paul,

We spent much of this past winter in cold weather climates and that area was one of the first we noticed the mold stains.  We tried vinegar as well as many other products, but the only one that worked for us on that material, in a timely fashion, was Tilex (which contains a significant amount of bleach).  Spray it on with a good deal of ventilation and wait a few hours.  Dry the area with a fan to get rid of the bleach odors.  Repeat if necessary. That material is colorfast but the bleach will lighten the color a bit as it bleaches out old dirt and grime.  We had to treat the entire area to end up with a uniformly clean surface.

Something else that we found that works on fabric and carpet (but takes a good deal of time) is what piratical sailor (https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/fighting-mildew-mold-and-lichen) calls formula b:

2 tablespoons of baking soda
2 tablespoons of borax
1 tablespoon of trisodiumphosphate (TSP)

Mix in 1 quart of warm water with stirring.

What  worked for us on fabric and carpet is to spray the area with the formula b and let sit for a few days.  Come back with vinegar and a brush.  Repeat until the stains are completely gone, which could be 3 or 4 applications. 

If you spent a good deal of time under those conditions, I suggest looking around the boat for other potentially impacted areas.

Cabinets, lockers, closets, under berths, etc. Any areas close to the hull is where there would have been excessive condensation and possibly a problem.

We just completed an extensive cleaning of the boat from stem to stern.  Feel free to email me (paul dot stascavage at icloud dot com) if you find your problem is more extensive than you thought and I will share what I have learned.

All the best,

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Exploring Brunswick, GA

www.RitaKathryn.com

1541 - 1560 of 59218