Date   

Re: Color code of hull Amel 54

Alexander Hofmann
 

Hi Brent
This 'Gold Line' has been more or less a design study applied on the A54 for the future Amel boats, that I never would have bought. I rely on the 25 years experience of Amel with Santorin to A54, inorporating tons of experiences of cruising sailors. I have been one of the last üpotential new boat buyers of A54, but the new ones came surpringly fast. So I bought a 3 year old 'gold line'.
I like the design, it is a more mordern and 'younger' touch, but it is not more indeed as a Gold/sand line instead of red and a number of design and light features inside. Nothing concerning basic principes of Amel, saftey or performance of the ship. 
I did only use the term 'fist gold line' on SY Oceanica I Amel54#156 because Carina did use it for SY Ultimo Amel54#165.
Can only encourage you, Brent, to stay with Super Maramu or A54, if you want to go round our beautiful planet in a most safe way. The Amel way. 
The newer Amel boart are good, for sure, but made for a newer clientel which is relevant today on the boat markets, and not anmore the old Amel dinosaurs ... like me. :-)
All the best
Alexander


Re: Breaker Panel Label Back Lights

Gregory Shea
 

Arno, 
Is the constant current driver you linked to at Amazon suitable for us? It’s input voltage is 90-264 AC.

Greg Shea
Sharks 133 Cap des Iles 
Preveza

On Jul 29, 2020, at 12:46 PM, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Hi David,

The problem is that the blue lights are switched via resistors. Blue LEDs are by their nature very sensitive to overvoltage. You should supply LEDs ideally with a current source instead of a voltage source. A current source supplies a certain current and regulates the voltage to get to that current.
Using resistors is (especially) for blue LEDs a poor choice as your supply voltage can be anything from 24 to 29 volt. For a blue LED this means that when you pick a resistor suitable for 29 Volt, the thing will hardly light up at 24 volt. Picking a resistor for 24 Volt will fry the LED at 29 volt. This is why these switch panel lights die.

What I've did is count the number of LEDs (pairs) you need, multiply this with the optimal current for each pair of LEDs. The pairs are set in series on the PCB so the optimal current for one LED is the same as for the pair. I'm not sure anymore but I think I got to 500 mA for the lot. Then I bought a converter similar to this one from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Supplies-25-2W-15-50V-500mA/dp/B00HKJAW20/ref=sr_1_63?crid=3YQWWEX2UH14&dchild=1&keywords=constant+current+led+driver&qid=1596040540&sprefix=constant+current+%2Caps%2C266&sr=8-63
This is a constant current supply to feed all the leds (in pairs). This has been working excellent for some time now. Each individual LED is fed their optimal current. I can't find the LEDs anymore that I bought from Amazon at the time, but I bought them in small bulk similar to these https://www.amazon.com/100pcs-Ultra-Bright-Emitting-Diffused/dp/B01GE4WEGI/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=blue+LED+5mm&qid=1596041080&sr=8-8

Hope this helps,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Main sheet boom slider broken

Paul Stascavage
 

Good day all,

We were recently in Hampton VA where we had the replacement boom blocks noted in the original post fabricated.

As I had a need for an additional block, I contacted Andre from Gilliam Welding to see if he still had any.  He did, so I purchased another to use on the mizzen boom.

When Andre came to the boat to deliver the block, he gave me all he had and asked if I could find homes for the extras.  I currently have 3 to sell on his behalf (see attached photo's).

The cost is $205.00 US plus shipping. 

If you wish to purchase one or more, you can reply to this post or email me paul dot stascavage at icloud dot com.



All the best,

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Currently Exploring City Island, NY

www.RitaKathryn.com


Re: Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.

 

It would, but earlier Onan generators use the other one. I don't know the Onan model and year changeover, but it did happen. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

On Wed, Jul 29, 2020, 12:35 PM Mark Pitt <mark_pitt@...> wrote:

My Onan MDKAV uses 309-0295-01, the part that is in Eric's photo.

   Mark Pitt

  Sabbatical III, SM#419, Rhode Island, USA

On 7/29/2020 10:05 AM, CW Bill Rouse wrote:
WAIT and read this before you order!

Not all Onan Generators in all SMs and 54s are created equally. Use your ohmmeter to check for continuity between the terminals on the temperature sensor on the exhaust elbow. Some Onan models have part 309-0295-01 which is Normally Closed. Other models have part 309-0295 is Normally Open. Which sensor you have depends on your Onan Model and Serial. Check the parts manual for your model to determine how to test this sensor. Or call your Cummins/Onan dealer with your model and serial number.

Good to know: The normal temperature of the exhaust elbow is about 50C and the normal temperature of the coolant is about 80C. Were these in range? How many hours since the last impeller change? Should be less than 300hrs or 12 months. The impeller blades can look OK, but the impeller can be defective. You can have some water flow, but not enough to keep the elbow below about 70C (the approximate cut-off temp).

Also, remember there are a number of sensors in the shutdown system, and these switches will fail. I replaced the exhaust manifold temperature switch and the water-flow switch because of an accumulation of debris inside. I also had one situation with a loose connection on a switch. Did you use your laser temperature gun to measure temperature? 

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Jul 29, 2020 at 4:02 AM Mark Pitt <mark_pitt@...> wrote:
Eric,

I will order one.  I have never had an issue with mine but you never know.  Thanks for doing this.
Best,
Mark
Sabbatical III, Sm#419, Rhode Island, USA


On Jul 29, 2020, at 1:13 AM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

 Mike,
These are simple thermal switches. They are normally closed.
If the circuit opens up the genset stops.
My problem is sometimes they burn out and other times I hit the switch and it separates.
Fair Winds,
Eric

On July 28, 2020 at 10:41 PM "Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)" <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:

Thanks Eric. Sent you a message with order details.

When these fail, go bad, or break, how do you know? Does it prevent the genset from starting/running? Or does it allow the genset to overheat if there are issues with the cooling system (broken impeller for example) and potentially damage things?

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
Opua, NZ


 


Re: Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.

Mark Pitt
 

My Onan MDKAV uses 309-0295-01, the part that is in Eric's photo.

   Mark Pitt

  Sabbatical III, SM#419, Rhode Island, USA

On 7/29/2020 10:05 AM, CW Bill Rouse wrote:
WAIT and read this before you order!

Not all Onan Generators in all SMs and 54s are created equally. Use your ohmmeter to check for continuity between the terminals on the temperature sensor on the exhaust elbow. Some Onan models have part 309-0295-01 which is Normally Closed. Other models have part 309-0295 is Normally Open. Which sensor you have depends on your Onan Model and Serial. Check the parts manual for your model to determine how to test this sensor. Or call your Cummins/Onan dealer with your model and serial number.

Good to know: The normal temperature of the exhaust elbow is about 50C and the normal temperature of the coolant is about 80C. Were these in range? How many hours since the last impeller change? Should be less than 300hrs or 12 months. The impeller blades can look OK, but the impeller can be defective. You can have some water flow, but not enough to keep the elbow below about 70C (the approximate cut-off temp).

Also, remember there are a number of sensors in the shutdown system, and these switches will fail. I replaced the exhaust manifold temperature switch and the water-flow switch because of an accumulation of debris inside. I also had one situation with a loose connection on a switch. Did you use your laser temperature gun to measure temperature? 

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Jul 29, 2020 at 4:02 AM Mark Pitt <mark_pitt@...> wrote:
Eric,

I will order one.  I have never had an issue with mine but you never know.  Thanks for doing this.
Best,
Mark
Sabbatical III, Sm#419, Rhode Island, USA


On Jul 29, 2020, at 1:13 AM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

 Mike,
These are simple thermal switches. They are normally closed.
If the circuit opens up the genset stops.
My problem is sometimes they burn out and other times I hit the switch and it separates.
Fair Winds,
Eric

On July 28, 2020 at 10:41 PM "Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)" <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:

Thanks Eric. Sent you a message with order details.

When these fail, go bad, or break, how do you know? Does it prevent the genset from starting/running? Or does it allow the genset to overheat if there are issues with the cooling system (broken impeller for example) and potentially damage things?

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
Opua, NZ


 


Re: A54 holding tank drain seasock

Teun BAAS
 

When I got on AMELIT in NOUMEA she had been sitting idle for close to 20 months and the aft bathroom valve was stuck: we planned on replacing when she came out of the water. Thanks to a very, very skinny (arms & hands) & persistent sidekick of my excellent (but high labor cost) local mechanic (Willie) he got it to work. Also the aft bathroom shower/sink valve in the engine room got stripped in the open position and this one is glassed into the watertight bulkhead. Impossible or extreme difficult to replace. So I added a PVC (??) valve at the end of the hose near the bilge. Since then I exercise (open/close 3 times) ALL 7 valves every other Saturday morning – I know is overkill but also no big deal.

 

Best Regards Teun

 

SV AMELIT  A54 #128

July 29, 2020 12:01:54

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Arno Luijten via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2020 06:03
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A54 holding tank drain seasock

 

Hi Soraya,

I operate them every moth or so. Not much more you can do other then spraying them with Corrosion-X. But the reality is they do get bad as these are pretty standard chromed brass seacocks. Getting proper bronze ones is close to impossible for the thread that is used on the outlet pipe. At least I was not able to source them. I can source bronze ones with tapered thread no problem, but not with a straight thread.
I had to replace the forward seacock as it was leaking via the shaft that operates the ball. It is a challenge to do. I ended up with a badly bruised upper arm for a week or so. Use Loctite 577 to seal the threads positioning the seacock in the proper rotational position. Before screwing it on with the Loctite, first do a dry-fit and count the number of rotations you need to make to fit it as far as it will go. 

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Breaker Panel Label Back Lights

Arno Luijten
 

Hi David,

The problem is that the blue lights are switched via resistors. Blue LEDs are by their nature very sensitive to overvoltage. You should supply LEDs ideally with a current source instead of a voltage source. A current source supplies a certain current and regulates the voltage to get to that current.
Using resistors is (especially) for blue LEDs a poor choice as your supply voltage can be anything from 24 to 29 volt. For a blue LED this means that when you pick a resistor suitable for 29 Volt, the thing will hardly light up at 24 volt. Picking a resistor for 24 Volt will fry the LED at 29 volt. This is why these switch panel lights die.

What I've did is count the number of LEDs (pairs) you need, multiply this with the optimal current for each pair of LEDs. The pairs are set in series on the PCB so the optimal current for one LED is the same as for the pair. I'm not sure anymore but I think I got to 500 mA for the lot. Then I bought a converter similar to this one from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Supplies-25-2W-15-50V-500mA/dp/B00HKJAW20/ref=sr_1_63?crid=3YQWWEX2UH14&dchild=1&keywords=constant+current+led+driver&qid=1596040540&sprefix=constant+current+%2Caps%2C266&sr=8-63
This is a constant current supply to feed all the leds (in pairs). This has been working excellent for some time now. Each individual LED is fed their optimal current. I can't find the LEDs anymore that I bought from Amazon at the time, but I bought them in small bulk similar to these https://www.amazon.com/100pcs-Ultra-Bright-Emitting-Diffused/dp/B01GE4WEGI/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=blue+LED+5mm&qid=1596041080&sr=8-8

Hope this helps,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: A54 SSB Antenna

Michael & Robyn
 

Hi Garulfo

Glomex / Shakespeare 390-1 Classic SSB mounting instructions state:
"1a. You must apply Loctite 242 thread locking compound to the Tip
Section’s ferrule threads and the Base Section’s upper ferrule
threads before assembly to ensure that the Tip Section remains
securely tightened while in service."
see here: https://shakespeare-ce.com/marine/product/390-1-ssb-antenna/

We installed ours about 3 yrs ago and no issues with loose threads.
--
Michael & Robyn

SY RIPPLE SM2K # 417
currently in CYB Cambridge MD USA


Re: Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.

 

WAIT and read this before you order!

Not all Onan Generators in all SMs and 54s are created equally. Use your ohmmeter to check for continuity between the terminals on the temperature sensor on the exhaust elbow. Some Onan models have part 309-0295-01 which is Normally Closed. Other models have part 309-0295 is Normally Open. Which sensor you have depends on your Onan Model and Serial. Check the parts manual for your model to determine how to test this sensor. Or call your Cummins/Onan dealer with your model and serial number.

Good to know: The normal temperature of the exhaust elbow is about 50C and the normal temperature of the coolant is about 80C. Were these in range? How many hours since the last impeller change? Should be less than 300hrs or 12 months. The impeller blades can look OK, but the impeller can be defective. You can have some water flow, but not enough to keep the elbow below about 70C (the approximate cut-off temp).

Also, remember there are a number of sensors in the shutdown system, and these switches will fail. I replaced the exhaust manifold temperature switch and the water-flow switch because of an accumulation of debris inside. I also had one situation with a loose connection on a switch. Did you use your laser temperature gun to measure temperature? 

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Jul 29, 2020 at 4:02 AM Mark Pitt <mark_pitt@...> wrote:
Eric,

I will order one.  I have never had an issue with mine but you never know.  Thanks for doing this.
Best,
Mark
Sabbatical III, Sm#419, Rhode Island, USA


On Jul 29, 2020, at 1:13 AM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

 Mike,
These are simple thermal switches. They are normally closed.
If the circuit opens up the genset stops.
My problem is sometimes they burn out and other times I hit the switch and it separates.
Fair Winds,
Eric

On July 28, 2020 at 10:41 PM "Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)" <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:

Thanks Eric. Sent you a message with order details.

When these fail, go bad, or break, how do you know? Does it prevent the genset from starting/running? Or does it allow the genset to overheat if there are issues with the cooling system (broken impeller for example) and potentially damage things?

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
Opua, NZ


 


Re: Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.

Michael & Robyn
 

Hi Eric,

please count me in for three of these sensors. I just replaced the rubber hose coupling between the exhaust elbow and the pipe leading outside of the onan box and could see that the sensor contacts are very corroded.
--
Michael & Robyn

SY RIPPLE SM2K # 417
currently in CYB Cambridge MD USA


Re: A54 SSB Antenna

David Kurtz
 

3M makes a product, Scotch 2200 mastic pads that is excellent for that situation.  I literally removed my two antennae from my SM two days ago when I took the masts down.  I intend to use it when I put them back up.  Scotch 2200 is a very long lasting self-sealing waterproof product that comes in either tape form or pads (roughly 3”x5”) that can be cut to size.
--
Dave Kurtz
SM2 #380
S/V Celtic Cross

Detroit, Michigan


Re: Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.

Jim Anderson
 

Hi Eric, 
Please put me down for one.
Thanks,
Jim
SM384 Sirena Azul
Seattle


Re: Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.

Craig Briggs
 
Edited

Online here for $48. or use their $13.20 one with spade connectors rather than screw. 
http://senasys.com/fan-limit-temperature-switch-generators
--
SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Breaker Panel Label Back Lights

David Crisp
 

Sharing some info' for the benefit of those folks who are wanting to fix the back lights that illuminate the breaker panel labels.  

Almost none of the LED’s back lighting the breaker panel labels on my Amel 54 were working.  I was going to buy individual LEDs and fit fresh myself but in the event Amel provided complete replacement PCBs (with LEDs mounted) – thank you Sonja.

 

What I did learn from an electrician who has fitted individual replacement LEDs is that they are ~3.2V 1.0 – 1.2 cd (depends how bright you want them) blue LEDs he thinks they each draw about 20mA.

The electrician spent a day changing all the blue LED for red at the request of an owner.

 

For each label there is a pair of LED and resistor fitted in series. This means only one LED needs to fail and a pair will stop working. 

An individual LED costs ~1Euro.  

--
David Crisp
SV Wilna Grace
Amel 54 #58


Re: A54 holding tank drain seasock

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Soraya,

I operate them every moth or so. Not much more you can do other then spraying them with Corrosion-X. But the reality is they do get bad as these are pretty standard chromed brass seacocks. Getting proper bronze ones is close to impossible for the thread that is used on the outlet pipe. At least I was not able to source them. I can source bronze ones with tapered thread no problem, but not with a straight thread.
I had to replace the forward seacock as it was leaking via the shaft that operates the ball. It is a challenge to do. I ended up with a badly bruised upper arm for a week or so. Use Loctite 577 to seal the threads positioning the seacock in the proper rotational position. Before screwing it on with the Loctite, first do a dry-fit and count the number of rotations you need to make to fit it as far as it will go. 

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.

Alan Grayson
 

Hi Eric, I'll take 2.
Regards
Alan Grayson
SM 406 Ora Pai
Lancaster Virginia


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
Sent: Wednesday, 29 July 2020 12:37 AM
To: Amel Owners <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.
 

I have broken a few of these switches over the years. I have done this by reaching over the generator to retrieve something stored behind the genset.

I received a quote from my Onan dealer and on Amazon for around $90- plus tax which is ridiculous.

I tracked down the OEM manufacturer and the cost is about $23- plus a one time set up fee of about $50- I plan on ordering 2 of these. They stated that they make this for ONAN. If anyone is interested please let me know and I can order them for you $33- each plus USPS of about $8.00.

I will order the switches within a week.

Fair Winds,

Eric

SM 376 Kimberlite 


Re: Antal Genoa Traveler Blocks for sale

Alan Grayson
 

Hi Alan, For the one I have off the springs are good and I can rotate the pin by hand. The plastic rails are a bit sloppy compared to new ones but otherwise good order. I'll have the other one off tomorrow but currently I cannot move the pin. 
Regards
Alan


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@...>
Sent: Wednesday, 29 July 2020 5:34 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Antal Genoa Traveler Blocks for sale
 
Hi Alan,

I could be interested.
Are the springs that hold the blocks up all working i.e. not broken?
Have you ever taken the long pin out ?
What's the condition of the plastic slides that bear on the track?

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437  


Re: Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.

Mark Pitt
 

Eric,

I will order one.  I have never had an issue with mine but you never know.  Thanks for doing this.
Best,
Mark
Sabbatical III, Sm#419, Rhode Island, USA


On Jul 29, 2020, at 1:13 AM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

 Mike,
These are simple thermal switches. They are normally closed.
If the circuit opens up the genset stops.
My problem is sometimes they burn out and other times I hit the switch and it separates.
Fair Winds,
Eric

On July 28, 2020 at 10:41 PM "Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)" <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:

Thanks Eric. Sent you a message with order details.

When these fail, go bad, or break, how do you know? Does it prevent the genset from starting/running? Or does it allow the genset to overheat if there are issues with the cooling system (broken impeller for example) and potentially damage things?

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
Opua, NZ


 


Re: A54 SSB Antenna

Ian Park
 

I have always used self amalgamating tape round the joint to keep moisture out. It does seem to keep the threads from slipping.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96 (currently in Wales)

On 29 Jul 2020, at 05:51, Sv Garulfo <svgarulfo@...> wrote:

Hello
Our SSB Antenna comes in 2 parts.
The threading that connects them has gotten loose and we would like to find away to secure them that doesn’t impact the transmission.
Has anyone had this issue? Any recommendations on how to fix this?

Thanks

Soraya
Garulfo
A54-122
Tahiti


Re: A54 holding tank drain seasock

Randall
 

When you say grip do you mean just get hard to turn? On my 54 I was about to remove and replace my handle. It was hard to turn and the tank would not empty, I thought it was the handle, it was sticky but it ended up being a build up of scale in the drain pipe. I put descaling liquid in (Harpic 10) that loosened the build up. In the end I got in the tender, used an old piece of 3/8 inch dowel/stick and ran it up the hole from the waterline, it broke the scaling and drained, now it turns easy and the tank drains properly. Re and re the valve could be a messy job.

Cheers,
Randall
A54#56

Virus-free. www.avg.com


On Wed, Jul 29, 2020 at 6:51 AM Sv Garulfo <svgarulfo@...> wrote:
Hello,

Any routine maintenance tips for the holding tanks drain seacocks?
Ours are starting to grip.

Thanks

Soraya
Garulfo
A54-122
Tahiti