Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Power draw at anchor

Mark Erdos
 

Jim,

 

The math is not quite correct. If you have 8 batteries, that is 4 sets of two batteries. When you connect 2 batteries to get 24v this doesn’t increase the Ah. Hence, you have 440 total Ah and at 40% usage this equates to 176 usable Ah.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2018 1:14 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Power draw at anchor

 

 

If my math is right and if your SM is equipped with 8  110Ah batteries and you are drawing 0.1 Amps continuously then theoretically it would take 146 days,16 hours to run your batteries down to 60% charged.

 

If you were drawing 0.2A then it would be half of that, 73 days, 8 hours.

 

For the 12 battery  "comfort pak" model it would be 220 days and 110 days, respectively.

 

8 X 110 = 880 Total Ah

880 X 40% = 352 Usable Ah

352/0.1 = 3,520 hours available at 0.1A draw

3520/24 = 146.66 Days

 

Hope that helps, or is at least mildly interesting trivia,

 

Jim

SM384 Sirena Azul


Power Draw at anchor-redux

Thomas Peacock
 

Thanks to all for your thoughts. I'll briefly summarize what I have found.


I suspect that for most of you, it's not a big concern. You are either living aboard, in a slip with 220 volts, have at least a small solar panel, or are not as obsessive/compulsive as I am. Our situation is one of leaving the boat in a very secure mooring ball field in St Augustine. In the past, after six weeks of not being there, the house batteries used to be down to about 30% of normal. Not a huge concern, certainly deep cycle batteries can handle that. However, I always found it unsettling that I did not know what the unknown draw was. I do not recall what the Mastervolt showed at that time.

I had in the past ascribed the battery loss to the "permanent" 24 v -> 12 v Sailor transformer. However, I have bypassed and defused that particular device (ours do not have on/off switches as pictured in the SM manual). I was then down to 0.2 amp draw by the Mastervolt, but that it still 200 amp-hours in six weeks. Where was it going?

The fuel gauge was a very silent partner in that phenomenon. I consider myself lucky that I discovered that it was drawing power, it isn't something that comes to mind easily. Again, it is a mystery to me how it is wired. The wires seemingly go into the engine room, but are not visible there; I suspect they are under the foam sound insulation. I can find no breaker that will de-power the gauge; I can find no fuse near the batteries that would be intended for it. Throwing the large battery switches will de-power it, and also take the amp draw down to 0.0.

Undoing the wires to the gauge drops the amp draw from 0.2 to 0.1. Bill Rouse suggests that may be "margin of error" by the Mastervolt, which may be the case, although it seems to be a very solidly engineered device. My sense is that there is still some device on board that is "parasitizing" the electrical system. 


For now, she is on the mooring ball, drawing 0.1 amps. The large battery switches are on, as turning them off will also de-power the bilge pump. I will see what the total draw is in 6 weeks,


Still a nagging question for me is the wiring for the fuel gauge. We have a LaRochelle electrical diagram on board, but it does not include the gauge. Just for my own curiosity, would appreciate any insights on that topic. 


Thanks as always

Tom Peacock

Aletes SM 240 St Augustine Florida



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Resealing fixed portlights

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Scott,
Brother Joel Potter provided this answer a few years ago with respect to the off-white edges of the dodger windows. Undoubtedly it's the same for your black. The secret? It's not paint - Amel simply used gelcoat on the acrylic. Much more durable than any paint. Let it cure and then do your silicon (or whatever) bonding. 
Cheers, Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris, Ft Pierce FL USA


---In amelyachtowners@..., <brouse@...> wrote :

No, I don't have a direct answer to your question, but I know that the black paint was applied so that you didn't see the glue and fiberglass when looking down (inward) at the edges of the installed Portlight.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse

On Wed, Nov 14, 2018 at 10:25 AM cpp_berkeley <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

Hi all,


One of our fixed portlights was leaking a bit and we decided to tackle the job ourselves as the boatyard called it "a labor of love" of which they were not interested in doing. Possibly a blessing in disguise!


Removing it wasn't too difficult but now we need to prepare to re-install it. :) Has anyone done this before and can give us some tips?


Our intent is to abrade the old silicon off with a knife / chisel. The problem is that we're starting to remove the black paint underneath. Any idea what's the best replacement for this black paint on the acrylic?


We intend to clean the acrylic with isopropyl alcohol and then the fiberglass flange with acetone to try to remove all traces of the old silicone.


Our intent is to get it as clean as possible and then re-seal with silicone. The original installation had quite a thin layer of silicone, so I am thinking silicone was simply applied to the acrylic and then the panel screwed onto the flange pretty soon after that.


Would it be better to allow it to cure a bit before screwing it down completely? 


Thanks in advance for any tips and anything we didn't think of.


Scott

Amel 54 #69 "Tengah"


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Power draw at anchor

Mark Erdos
 

Tom,

 

I thought the same thing but refrained about asking how the bilge pump would help without a method of charging the batteries. In the case of water intrusion it will only run for so long and then the inevitable happens once the batteries are dead. So why not just disconnect the battery bank to remove any drain or add a solar charger if this is not ideal.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Aruba

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 3:05 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Power draw at anchor

 

 

Tom,

 

If your bilge pump does kick on for any reason, what do you have to recharge your batteries?  If you don't have solar panels, you might want to consider installing one to provide a daily trickle charge, then you don't have to worry too much about a zero drain.

 

Dennis Johns

Libertad

Maramu 121


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Resealing fixed portlights

 

No, I don't have a direct answer to your question, but I know that the black paint was applied so that you didn't see the glue and fiberglass when looking down (inward) at the edges of the installed Portlight.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Nov 14, 2018 at 10:25 AM cpp_berkeley <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

Hi all,


One of our fixed portlights was leaking a bit and we decided to tackle the job ourselves as the boatyard called it "a labor of love" of which they were not interested in doing. Possibly a blessing in disguise!


Removing it wasn't too difficult but now we need to prepare to re-install it. :) Has anyone done this before and can give us some tips?


Our intent is to abrade the old silicon off with a knife / chisel. The problem is that we're starting to remove the black paint underneath. Any idea what's the best replacement for this black paint on the acrylic?


We intend to clean the acrylic with isopropyl alcohol and then the fiberglass flange with acetone to try to remove all traces of the old silicone.


Our intent is to get it as clean as possible and then re-seal with silicone. The original installation had quite a thin layer of silicone, so I am thinking silicone was simply applied to the acrylic and then the panel screwed onto the flange pretty soon after that.


Would it be better to allow it to cure a bit before screwing it down completely? 


Thanks in advance for any tips and anything we didn't think of.


Scott

Amel 54 #69 "Tengah"


Re: Power draw at anchor

sbmesasailor
 

Tom,

If your bilge pump does kick on for any reason, what do you have to recharge your batteries?  If you don't have solar panels, you might want to consider installing one to provide a daily trickle charge, then you don't have to worry too much about a zero drain.

Dennis Johns
Libertad
Maramu 121


Resealing fixed portlights

cpp_berkeley <no_reply@...>
 

Hi all,


One of our fixed portlights was leaking a bit and we decided to tackle the job ourselves as the boatyard called it "a labor of love" of which they were not interested in doing. Possibly a blessing in disguise!


Removing it wasn't too difficult but now we need to prepare to re-install it. :) Has anyone done this before and can give us some tips?


Our intent is to abrade the old silicon off with a knife / chisel. The problem is that we're starting to remove the black paint underneath. Any idea what's the best replacement for this black paint on the acrylic?


We intend to clean the acrylic with isopropyl alcohol and then the fiberglass flange with acetone to try to remove all traces of the old silicone.


Our intent is to get it as clean as possible and then re-seal with silicone. The original installation had quite a thin layer of silicone, so I am thinking silicone was simply applied to the acrylic and then the panel screwed onto the flange pretty soon after that.


Would it be better to allow it to cure a bit before screwing it down completely? 


Thanks in advance for any tips and anything we didn't think of.


Scott

Amel 54 #69 "Tengah"


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Power draw at anchor

Porter McRoberts
 

Throw the breakers and check. Quite likely the bilge is still hot. 

Porter

54-152

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Nov 13, 2018, at 7:30 PM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

So, I guess that means the SM's don't have a fuel dip stick like the SN's? We SN's don't even sip electricity for reading the fuel level and it ALWAYS works !! 

Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

We are leaving St Augustine for a month, and I am trying to get my electric usage to near zero......

 I then noticed that the fuel gauge still works.........

Any idea where the fuel gauge gets its power from?.................

Thanks as always to all in this group.

Tom Peacock
Aletes SM 240
St Augustine Florida


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Power draw at anchor

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

SM have the fuel stick.
But in addition they have a fuel gage.

Sincerely, Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 11/13/18, sangaris@aol.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Power draw at anchor
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, November 13, 2018, 6:30 PM


 









So, I guess that means the SM's don't have
a fuel dip stick like the SN's? We SN's don't
even sip electricity for reading the fuel level and it
ALWAYS works !! Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com,
<peacock8491@...> wrote :

We
are leaving St Augustine for a month, and I am trying to get
my electric usage to near zero......
 I then noticed that
the fuel gauge still works.........

Any idea where the fuel gauge gets its power
from?.................


Thanks as always to all in this group.



Tom Peacock

Aletes SM 240

St Augustine Florida


Re: Volvo D2-75 for a SuperMaramu

Graham Boyd
 

Danny,

You are now a further year in with your Volvo D2-75. How is it going?

I would love to do a rebuild of the TMD22 but it's not vaguely economical here in Hong Kong.

After everything Ive read on the Amel forum I was more of less convinced that the D2-75 was the engine for me too. As such have been googling this engine for reliability and the reading is not good concerning the mechanical data interface unit, some of which it appears Volvo have just recalled. They are now onto their 6th version of the MDI. Have you had any trouble with this item. Although this engine claims to be "electronics free" it's actually not.

Yanmar are quite hard to deal with when it comes to the isolated negative earth with huge lead times, which has got me running back to Beta ....which is where I actually started.

The Beta man looked at the SM and the power curves for the TMD22A. None of us have ever got that engine above 2800 rpm which is actually at best 60HP! 78 HP doesn't occur until 4500rpm. We have all been sailing round the world quite happily with that out put for many years. He suggested to me the BETA 60 was the the ideal replacement as it almost exactly replicates that part of the TMD22A power curve that we've only ever been able to use but at a higher torque. These days every one seems determined to put bigger and bigger engines in their boats, but I'm not convinced!

If you've time I'd love to hear how your D2-75 is going?

Graham
SM140 Sula
Hong Kong


Re: Power draw at anchor

Craig Briggs
 

So, I guess that means the SM's don't have a fuel dip stick like the SN's? We SN's don't even sip electricity for reading the fuel level and it ALWAYS works !! 
Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <peacock8491@...> wrote :

We are leaving St Augustine for a month, and I am trying to get my electric usage to near zero......

 I then noticed that the fuel gauge still works.........

Any idea where the fuel gauge gets its power from?.................

Thanks as always to all in this group.

Tom Peacock
Aletes SM 240
St Augustine Florida


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Power draw at anchor

amelforme
 

If you still have the original 24 to 12 volt transformers, the one marked “ PERMANENT” is hard wired to the batteries and draws power 24/7 unless you turn it off. Its purpose is to preserve volatile memory in devices like the stereo radio station memory function.

 

          JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.

                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2018 1:25 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Power draw at anchor

 

 

Tom,

 

I don't think you have a "Voltmaster/Batman," rather you may have a Mastervolt Battman😁. Your boat originally came with a Xantrex Link 10.

 

I think you can get it to read amps alternating between zero and 0.1. As you know the battery monitor will use a minute amount. Also, it is possible that your monitor is not totally accurate. And, remember the shunt on your monitor is not totally accurate to zero. It will have a small resolution. I don't know about the Battman, but the OEM SM Xantrex Link 10 has a 0.1 amp resolution. 

 

So, if you are using the battery monitor to determine the point that you have zero amps, you're probably using the wrong thing. In fact, with the permanent OFF and a monitor reading between 0 and 0.2, you are probably there.

 

I hope this helps you. 


Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

 

On Tue, Nov 13, 2018, 11:57 peacock8491@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@... wrote:

 

We are leaving St Augustine for a month, and I am trying to get my electric usage to near zero. I could only get it down to 0.2 amps (as measured by the Voltmaster/Batman). All breakers are off (at least the ones I am aware of). I have taken the “permanent” Sailor 24>12 volt transformer out entirely, fuse removed. I then noticed that the fuel gauge still works. I could not trace the wires. There seems to be 19 volts at the gauge, but one of the hot wires comes into a resistor. If I disconnect the feed, the boat power usage does go down to 0.1 alternating with 0.2.
Two questions:
Any idea where the fuel gauge gets its power from?
Any idea how to get the amps down to zero?
Thanks as always to all in this group.

Tom Peacock
Aletes SM 240
St Augustine Florida


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Power draw at anchor

Thomas Peacock
 

Thanks as always for insights.
Yes, Bill, I have Mastervolt, not Voltmaster. The Xantrex looks awfully similar, different name for same product?
I don’t want to disconnect my batteries, nor do I want to throw the battery breakers. The bilge pump won’t run then.
Maybe 0.1 is all i can get. The Mastervolt draws only 7 milleamps.

Still unresolved electrical properties of the fuel gauge. It does not work when the battery breakers are thrown. However, I cannot find an appropriate breaker to disengage it. I do not see a fused line that might be the power either. I find that a little disconcerting. Would appreciate any thoughts on that.

Thanks,
Tom Peacock
Aletes SM 240
St Augustine, Florida


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Power draw at anchor

Mark Erdos
 

Tom,

 

Why don’t you disconnect the battery cables from the batteries if you are trying to isolate them from any drain? I am assuming this is what you are trying to accomplish.

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Aruba

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2018 1:14 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Power draw at anchor

 

 

We are leaving St Augustine for a month, and I am trying to get my electric usage to near zero. I could only get it down to 0.2 amps (as measured by the Voltmaster/Batman). All breakers are off (at least the ones I am aware of). I have taken the “permanent” Sailor 24>12 volt transformer out entirely, fuse removed. I then noticed that the fuel gauge still works. I could not trace the wires. There seems to be 19 volts at the gauge, but one of the hot wires comes into a resistor. If I disconnect the feed, the boat power usage does go down to 0.1 alternating with 0.2.
Two questions:
Any idea where the fuel gauge gets its power from?
Any idea how to get the amps down to zero?
Thanks as always to all in this group.

Tom Peacock
Aletes SM 240
St Augustine Florida


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Power draw at anchor

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Isn't the 0.2 amps from the Link 10 (or equivalent)?
You could switch off the 2 red battery switch going to the house batteries.

Sincerely, Alexandre


--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 11/13/18, peacock8491@gmail.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Power draw at anchor
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, November 13, 2018, 11:14 AM


 









We are leaving St Augustine for a month, and I am
trying to get my electric usage to near zero. I could only
get it down to 0.2 amps (as measured by the
Voltmaster/Batman). All breakers are off (at least the ones
I am aware of). I have taken the “permanent” Sailor
24>12 volt transformer out entirely, fuse removed. I then
noticed that the fuel gauge still works. I could not trace
the wires. There seems to be 19 volts at the gauge, but one
of the hot wires comes into a resistor. If I disconnect the
feed, the boat power usage does go down to 0.1 alternating
with 0.2.

Two questions:

Any idea where the fuel gauge gets its power from?

Any idea how to get the amps down to zero?

Thanks as always to all in this group.



Tom Peacock

Aletes SM 240

St Augustine Florida


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Power draw at anchor

 

Tom,

I don't think you have a "Voltmaster/Batman," rather you may have a Mastervolt Battman😁. Your boat originally came with a Xantrex Link 10.

I think you can get it to read amps alternating between zero and 0.1. As you know the battery monitor will use a minute amount. Also, it is possible that your monitor is not totally accurate. And, remember the shunt on your monitor is not totally accurate to zero. It will have a small resolution. I don't know about the Battman, but the OEM SM Xantrex Link 10 has a 0.1 amp resolution. 

So, if you are using the battery monitor to determine the point that you have zero amps, you're probably using the wrong thing. In fact, with the permanent OFF and a monitor reading between 0 and 0.2, you are probably there.

I hope this helps you. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Tue, Nov 13, 2018, 11:57 peacock8491@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@... wrote:
 

We are leaving St Augustine for a month, and I am trying to get my electric usage to near zero. I could only get it down to 0.2 amps (as measured by the Voltmaster/Batman). All breakers are off (at least the ones I am aware of). I have taken the “permanent” Sailor 24>12 volt transformer out entirely, fuse removed. I then noticed that the fuel gauge still works. I could not trace the wires. There seems to be 19 volts at the gauge, but one of the hot wires comes into a resistor. If I disconnect the feed, the boat power usage does go down to 0.1 alternating with 0.2.
Two questions:
Any idea where the fuel gauge gets its power from?
Any idea how to get the amps down to zero?
Thanks as always to all in this group.

Tom Peacock
Aletes SM 240
St Augustine Florida


Power draw at anchor

Thomas Peacock
 

We are leaving St Augustine for a month, and I am trying to get my electric usage to near zero. I could only get it down to 0.2 amps (as measured by the Voltmaster/Batman). All breakers are off (at least the ones I am aware of). I have taken the “permanent” Sailor 24>12 volt transformer out entirely, fuse removed. I then noticed that the fuel gauge still works. I could not trace the wires. There seems to be 19 volts at the gauge, but one of the hot wires comes into a resistor. If I disconnect the feed, the boat power usage does go down to 0.1 alternating with 0.2.
Two questions:
Any idea where the fuel gauge gets its power from?
Any idea how to get the amps down to zero?
Thanks as always to all in this group.

Tom Peacock
Aletes SM 240
St Augustine Florida


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Reefing schedule

Porter McRoberts
 

The solution to pollution is dilution!
We fill the bowl with fresh after any use and put that through. Thanks Bill R. 

Porter
54-152

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Nov 13, 2018, at 12:34 AM, Alin Misescu alin1923@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thank you very much Bill. Awesome, I think that should do it. 

All the best. 
Alin Misescu 
SM2k Wanderer #283



On Tue, 13 Nov 2018 at 16:31, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
 

Alin,


I assume by "reefing schedule" you mean how much you plan to shorten sail at various wind strengths.

When sailing monohulls I have never reefed "by the numbers", but rather used boat speed, heel, and helm balance to tell me I needed to shorten things down. Wind strength, sea state, and point of sail all make it really hard to reduce it to a single simple rule.

But, assuming further, that this is a regulatory requirement for you, I'll give it a go to write down a simple series of rules. These are very approximate, and are assuming you are close hauled, with sails that have good shape and are properly trimmed.  All wind speeds are apparent wind, and are approximate. Reefing percentages are area reduction in the indicated sail from its full size. The sequence is also a bit flexible in practice.  For example, sometimes, rather than take the second reef in the genoa, I'll just put the main away.  

0 to 18 knots  All plain sail.
18  knots Genoa reefed 15%
20  knots  Main reefed 20%
23  knots Genoa reefed 25%
25 knots  Main furled away.
30 knots  Mizzen reefed 20%
35 knots  Genoa reefed 50%

Of course when sailing off the wind, more sail can be carried at any given true wind speed.  My sails have stripes on them giving me an indication of these area reductions so I can repeatably set things like the position of the jib sheet cars.  My genoa has a padded luff so it gives respectable sail shape to about 25% reef.  Reduce it to 50%, and it does start to bag up a bit, and pointing ability starts to fall off.

I am guessing that such a table as above will give the surveyor what he needs to see.

Bill Kinney
Sm160, Harmonie
On the hard, Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA


Fiberglass repair

caliber33verizon.net@...
 

Autoprop through a blade!! Any suggestion on type of fiberglass to use to repair small dent on hull. Is West System ok?


    Steve


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ballooner Not Locking

Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Annsofie,

I have at last been able to drop my swivel and find out why the ballooner refused to lock in the up position. Danny was spot on in suggesting that the tongue of the locking piece had worn away. If anyone is ordering this part from Amel, be aware that there are at least two different sizes of the tongue assembly with different screw hole spacing.

Alas, I am also concerned that the swivel itself seems rather wobbly, so I might be in for a ball bearing change as well. I looked in the files section but cannot find the file that you suggest. If you still have a copy, can you please send it to me at crusader53@...?

Many thanks

Ian SM2K 414 Crusader Cyprus


On 23/10/2018 21:34, Ann-Sofie Svanberg kanalmamman@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
 

Take a look at the file "Changing ball bearings ...". We had the same problem on Lady Annila a few years ago. The file I reffer to shows all parts and what was wrong with ours. Maybe it could help you.

Regards
Annsofie at S/Y Lady Annila, SM232, 1998

Skickat från min iPad

> 19 okt. 2018 kl. 00:18 skrev Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] :
>
>
>
> Hi. I attach a photo of the swivel with the tongue beside it. Second try.
>
> Regards
>
> Danny
>
> SM 299
>
> Ocean Pearl
>
> On 19 October 2018 at 07:02 "Danny Simms sailorman.ds@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi Bill,
> further to my last. The reason it won't be over the slot is because the tongue I described being worn off. I struggled with the same problem before it was pointed out to me by another amelian.
> Regards
> Danny
> SM 299
> Ocean Pearl
>
> On Fri, 19 Oct 2018 at 04:37, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
>
>
> Ian,
>
> I have found one issue you might have a look at. I am sure there are others that people with more Amel time than I have come across.
>
> I haven't noticed it being sensitive to the exact height on the foil, although I haven't tested it much in that regard.
>
> If latch actually works with all the parts in hand, it might be an alignment issue. Keep the lashing line from the head of the genoa very short, and be sure that the head swivel is rotating smoothly. You want to be sure that the latch stays directly over the proper slot in the foil. If it rotates off center a bit it doesn't latch.
>
> Bill Kinney
> Sm160, Harmonie
> Annapolis, MD, USA
>
>
>
>
> ---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :
>
> The last few times I have used my ballooner it has failed to lock into
> the swivel. The halyard run looks normal and I have tried various
> rotational positions other than the recommended one of the slot facing
> dead aft. It still refuses to lock. I am wondering if the swivel should
> be lower to offset the rearwards departure of the halyard as the hook
> nears the top? I could only lower the genoa by a few inches before it
> touches the pulpit rails. I have tried both my nylon and aluminium hooks
> with and without the sail attached. The mousetrap on the swivel looks
> and functions normally, or did a few weeks ago when I had the genoa down
> after the problem first appeared.
>
> Any thoughts please? I love using this sail.
>
> Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader (2003)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> <20181019_072909.jpg>


15421 - 15440 of 58444