Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger [1 Attachment]

John Clark
 

Hi Pat,
  check the service manual attached below.  It has a blowup diagram of the cooling system for the various versions of the Volvo "####22#".  

 My understanding is that the "22" is based on the Perkins 4-108.  

My 1990 SM was repowered in 2002 with a Volvo TAMD22a and other than the water hoses, the heat exchanger housing is all metal.  

If you have eliminated the usual suspects: impeller, sea strainer, leaky hoses and check valves then perhaps the end caps, if they are not standard, could be the culprit.  It certainly sounds wrong that the silicone covers water passages, and that a rubber boot separates coolant and sea water.

Can you send a photo?  

                                Regards,  John



---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

John, I have no Orings , the rubber end caps have two different diameters ,the larger dia. clamps around the H/E housing and the smaller dia. part clamps around the insert. May be that I am missing parts and this is what the previous owner came up with. I have been looking online for a blown up diagram. Is the TMD22A a Perkins 4-108 ? I can find new end boots for it . The temperature increases with the rpm , at 2500 it got up to 215F, slow down and it decreases to 190 or so.
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sat, Jun 2, 2018 8:27 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger [1 Attachment]

 
[Attachment(s) from john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] included below]
Hi Pat,
    I attached the TAMD22 service manual, the cooling system starts on page 93.  I can tell you if you are blocking holes it will significantly reduce the heat removal ability of the HX.  I see in the manual that there appears to be o rings on the metal end caps.  This is how I would expect it to be.  

What kind of over heating issue do you experience?  It could be something unrelated to the HX like drawing air from a cracked SW hose(happened to me) or leaking anti siphon, leaking backflow preventer....

                                          Regards,  John

John Clark
SV Annie SM 37 
USVI

---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

Mark, Reading your reply, I realized that I left out an important fact ,that my engine is a Volvo TMD22a . So my exchanger may be different from yours. I suspect it is, I see no where ,where a O ring would reside.All my small tubes were clear , what was partially block were two of the four larger holes in the bronze housing where antifreeze passes through.On my H/E there is two rubber boots on either end where the water enters and leaves from and they are secured with s.s.clamps. If they should leak ,and they are under pressure raw water could mix with the antifreeze.So if anyone with a TMD22a could tell me if there is Orings or silicone ,I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
Pat
SM3123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Jun 1, 2018 5:13 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger

 
Hi Pat,
 
It sounds as though you are on the right track.
 
The ends should be sealed with a rubber o-ring. Depending on the engine type there are sometimes 2 o-rings. There should not be silicone. You should be able to look through the tubes and see nothing but air. Any obstruction is going to cause you grief especially near the ends as this is where the sea-water changes direction. If you look at the design of the HE, you will see the how the seawater changes direction two times before moving on.
 
While you are in there, also check the after-cooler, if you have a turbo charger. This can be another are where the copper tubes become blocked and foul the flow of sea-water.
 
The anti freeze is moved along the outside of the tubes by the engine’s fresh water pump. The sea water is moved by the sea-water pump impeller on the inside of the tubes. The anti-freeze is cooled as it makes contact with the other side of the copper tube.
 
Hope this helps you.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 1, 2018 1:23 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger
 
 
I have had my heat exchanger off several times over the years ,and reinstalled it as the previous owner had and not questioned it ,until now. I have had an overheating issue for years and am resolved to solve it . The previous owner applied silicone on the end caps to seal them. Is this normally done? When I just removed the H/E I found that as I pushed the cap on the last time ,the silicone was pushed back and covered better than 50% of one of the four holes and about 25%of another. Which brings me to another question. Is the antifreeze forced through the holes or does it just come into contact with the tubes as it moves along with the flow,I assume the later.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans #123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower questions

greatketch@...
 

Thanks to all who answered!

We are not in dire need of engine replacement, but after two circumnavigation and just over 8000 hours we are entering that range where she might last many more years, but if she died in 6 months nobody would think it premature either.  

Bill Kinney
SM 160, Harmonie
Solomon’s Is, MD, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger [1 Attachment]

Patrick McAneny
 

John, I have no Orings , the rubber end caps have two different diameters ,the larger dia. clamps around the H/E housing and the smaller dia. part clamps around the insert. May be that I am missing parts and this is what the previous owner came up with. I have been looking online for a blown up diagram. Is the TMD22A a Perkins 4-108 ? I can find new end boots for it . The temperature increases with the rpm , at 2500 it got up to 215F, slow down and it decreases to 190 or so.
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sat, Jun 2, 2018 8:27 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger [1 Attachment]

 
[Attachment(s) from john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] included below]
Hi Pat,
    I attached the TAMD22 service manual, the cooling system starts on page 93.  I can tell you if you are blocking holes it will significantly reduce the heat removal ability of the HX.  I see in the manual that there appears to be o rings on the metal end caps.  This is how I would expect it to be.  

What kind of over heating issue do you experience?  It could be something unrelated to the HX like drawing air from a cracked SW hose(happened to me) or leaking anti siphon, leaking backflow preventer....

                                          Regards,  John

John Clark
SV Annie SM 37 
USVI

---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Mark, Reading your reply, I realized that I left out an important fact ,that my engine is a Volvo TMD22a . So my exchanger may be different from yours. I suspect it is, I see no where ,where a O ring would reside.All my small tubes were clear , what was partially block were two of the four larger holes in the bronze housing where antifreeze passes through.On my H/E there is two rubber boots on either end where the water enters and leaves from and they are secured with s.s.clamps. If they should leak ,and they are under pressure raw water could mix with the antifreeze.So if anyone with a TMD22a could tell me if there is Orings or silicone ,I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
Pat
SM3123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Jun 1, 2018 5:13 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger

 
Hi Pat,
 
It sounds as though you are on the right track.
 
The ends should be sealed with a rubber o-ring. Depending on the engine type there are sometimes 2 o-rings. There should not be silicone. You should be able to look through the tubes and see nothing but air. Any obstruction is going to cause you grief especially near the ends as this is where the sea-water changes direction. If you look at the design of the HE, you will see the how the seawater changes direction two times before moving on.
 
While you are in there, also check the after-cooler, if you have a turbo charger. This can be another are where the copper tubes become blocked and foul the flow of sea-water.
 
The anti freeze is moved along the outside of the tubes by the engine’s fresh water pump. The sea water is moved by the sea-water pump impeller on the inside of the tubes. The anti-freeze is cooled as it makes contact with the other side of the copper tube.
 
Hope this helps you.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 1, 2018 1:23 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger
 
 
I have had my heat exchanger off several times over the years ,and reinstalled it as the previous owner had and not questioned it ,until now. I have had an overheating issue for years and am resolved to solve it . The previous owner applied silicone on the end caps to seal them. Is this normally done? When I just removed the H/E I found that as I pushed the cap on the last time ,the silicone was pushed back and covered better than 50% of one of the four holes and about 25%of another. Which brings me to another question. Is the antifreeze forced through the holes or does it just come into contact with the tubes as it moves along with the flow,I assume the later.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans #123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger

John Clark
 

Hi Pat,
    I attached the TAMD22 service manual, the cooling system starts on page 93.  I can tell you if you are blocking holes it will significantly reduce the heat removal ability of the HX.  I see in the manual that there appears to be o rings on the metal end caps.  This is how I would expect it to be.  

What kind of over heating issue do you experience?  It could be something unrelated to the HX like drawing air from a cracked SW hose(happened to me) or leaking anti siphon, leaking backflow preventer....

                                          Regards,  John

John Clark
SV Annie SM 37 
USVI

---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

Mark, Reading your reply, I realized that I left out an important fact ,that my engine is a Volvo TMD22a . So my exchanger may be different from yours. I suspect it is, I see no where ,where a O ring would reside.All my small tubes were clear , what was partially block were two of the four larger holes in the bronze housing where antifreeze passes through.On my H/E there is two rubber boots on either end where the water enters and leaves from and they are secured with s.s.clamps. If they should leak ,and they are under pressure raw water could mix with the antifreeze.So if anyone with a TMD22a could tell me if there is Orings or silicone ,I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
Pat
SM3123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Jun 1, 2018 5:13 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger

 
Hi Pat,
 
It sounds as though you are on the right track.
 
The ends should be sealed with a rubber o-ring. Depending on the engine type there are sometimes 2 o-rings. There should not be silicone. You should be able to look through the tubes and see nothing but air. Any obstruction is going to cause you grief especially near the ends as this is where the sea-water changes direction. If you look at the design of the HE, you will see the how the seawater changes direction two times before moving on.
 
While you are in there, also check the after-cooler, if you have a turbo charger. This can be another are where the copper tubes become blocked and foul the flow of sea-water.
 
The anti freeze is moved along the outside of the tubes by the engine’s fresh water pump. The sea water is moved by the sea-water pump impeller on the inside of the tubes. The anti-freeze is cooled as it makes contact with the other side of the copper tube.
 
Hope this helps you.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 1, 2018 1:23 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger
 
 
I have had my heat exchanger off several times over the years ,and reinstalled it as the previous owner had and not questioned it ,until now. I have had an overheating issue for years and am resolved to solve it . The previous owner applied silicone on the end caps to seal them. Is this normally done? When I just removed the H/E I found that as I pushed the cap on the last time ,the silicone was pushed back and covered better than 50% of one of the four holes and about 25%of another. Which brings me to another question. Is the antifreeze forced through the holes or does it just come into contact with the tubes as it moves along with the flow,I assume the later.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans #123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Repower questions

karkauai
 

I’ll put it on my list Bob.  Prolly won’t happen for a couple months unless someone needs them right away.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM 243

On Jun 2, 2018, at 1:43 AM, rossidesigngroup@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent,


It would be good to get those part numbers and sources posted.  I've wondered about them in case we need to replace a temp or oil pressure sensor.

Bob, KAIMI SM 429
Monastir, Tunisia


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas shut off [1 Attachment]

Alan Leslie
 

At 1/4" NPT and BSP threads are only 1 TPI (threads per inch) different so its very difficult to tell what you have unless you have an accurate thread gauge. 
The angles of the threads are also different, one is 55 and the other 60 degrees 
Also both NPT and BSP come in straight and tapered threads and the tapers are not the same.
With some force you can make a BSP male fit an NPT female, but how can you ensure it will be gas tight?
NPT is only really common in the US.
BSP is common in France and the UK...despite France being metric ... French plumbing is mysterious !
It is more than likely that the connectors on the boat are BSP.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Repower questions

Alan Leslie
 

I would appreciate the information also Kent, as I am sure everyone would.
Look forward to your post !
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Repower questions

rossirossix4
 

Hi Kent,

It would be good to get those part numbers and sources posted.  I've wondered about them in case we need to replace a temp or oil pressure sensor.

Bob, KAIMI SM 429
Monastir, Tunisia


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas shut off

eric freedman
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas shut off

 

Mark,

You are correct, I  wss wrong. I should have looked at my book. It is 1/4" pipe. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Fri, Jun 1, 2018, 17:48 mfmcgovern@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Pat/Bill,


FYI, the Burkert gas solenoid on my SM has G1/4 threads.  The best I can tell, G1/4 is the same as 1/4 British Standard Pipe (1/4 BSP).  It appears that Burkert solenoids sold in the US market come standard with NPT threads and those sold in the rest of the world have G (BSP) threads.  

Since it appears that your gas solenoid was added by an owner and not by Amel, it really could be anything.  If there is a part number on the solenoid you might be able to Google it and find out.  In any case, if possible you probably should physically check it yourself to see what the threads are if you want to buy a "drop-in" replacement solenoid. 

Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas shut off [1 Attachment]

mfmcgovern@...
 

Pat/Bill,

FYI, the Burkert gas solenoid on my SM has G1/4 threads.  The best I can tell, G1/4 is the same as 1/4 British Standard Pipe (1/4 BSP).  It appears that Burkert solenoids sold in the US market come standard with NPT threads and those sold in the rest of the world have G (BSP) threads.  

Since it appears that your gas solenoid was added by an owner and not by Amel, it really could be anything.  If there is a part number on the solenoid you might be able to Google it and find out.  In any case, if possible you probably should physically check it yourself to see what the threads are if you want to buy a "drop-in" replacement solenoid. 

Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower questions

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi again Bill,

two more things. I contacted Amel for advice and they told me not to go for the higher hp 110 hp motor as the c drive was not designed for that power and it would fail. Later models had a beefed up c drive that could handle the extra power and since at 160 you are earlier than our 299 I would expect the same to apply to you. I made the fit of the new engine to the existing Hurth gearbox a condition of the purchase, ie if it didn't fit they supplied the new gearbox to me at no cost. That made them sweat, a bit different from an off hand "oh yes it should fit". In the event it was no issue, a perfect fit. And yes, there is no smoke.

Regards

Danny

SM 299 

Ocean Pearl

On 02 June 2018 at 03:57 "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

A few questions for those of you who have repowered a Super Maramu—especially those who swapped out a Volvo TMD22.

What new engine did you use?
Did you use the same Hurth 250 transmission?
Are you happy with the new installation?
Where there any serious issues or complications?
Approximate cost?

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Central Chesapeake Bay, USA


 


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo D3-110 won't start - instruments won't even light up?

 

Scott,

Unfortunately, you will need a Volvo certified mechanic with the latest Volvo software on his laptop.

Hopefully it is not a dead Volvo computer, or two.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Fri, Jun 1, 2018 at 12:36 PM, cpp_berkeley <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

After a nice short day sail today, we were approaching Katakolo, Greece and I started the Volvo D3-110 (rev c) on my A54 and after a few minutes at idle, engaged into forward gear and about 30 seconds later, the motor died.


I tried to start it again but neither the EVC System Tachometer nor the Alarm Display lit up. So effectively the motor is not responding at all to the ignition key. Both of the 20 amp fuses on the motor are intact.


The starting battery is showing 12.9v and the genset, which I believe uses the same battery, started fine. 


Any ideas how I can start diagnosing this? 


Scott

SV Tengah

A54 #69

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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower questions

amelforme
 

Hello Everyone. No one asked me but that never seems to stop me...

A. Dry major consideration when repowering is to be sure and get a diesel that has an isolated negative electrical system. Also called a full floating or a full earth return electrical system, it is essential to not to change to a power plant with a conventional grounding systems. Some companies have a “kit” they supply to convert the grounding to an isolated negative, while others supply new diesels with the isolated negative system built in.
If you put a conventional grounded diesel, you will corrupt the electrical system and suffer the attendant problems this will cause.

JOEL F. POTTER
CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST LLC
THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
Office 954-462-5869 

On Jun 1, 2018, at 2:17 PM, Ian & Judy ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Bill,


I can answer all your questions in about two weeks time.  I am now 71 ( Judy is of course much younger) and hope to have at least ten more years afloat. You will have seen from past posts that we had an unhappy experience at the hands of the Volvo agent in Hyeres, leaving us with a large bill and an unhappy engine. We could persevere with our TMD but we want to go sailing rather than spending  time in marinas and money on mechanics so we have taken the plunge and as I write a new Volvo D2-75 is being installed in Piraeus by a guy whom I trust. He was originally trained by the Englishman who designed the TMD and when Volvo acquired the selling rights from Perkins he was sent to Sweden to show them how it worked.

 He was shocked by the work and cost carried out in Hyeres and encouraged me to complain to Volvo central from whom I hope to get some satisfaction.


The new engine is marginally smaller in size but with a 2.2 litre capacity ( 2 litre for the TMD) and 75hp at lower revs so NO SMOKE ! ( I am promised !). The exhaust is on the starboard side but the filters, to port , are more accessible. Rather than a marinised car engine ( TMD) it was built as a marine engine. Meets EU pollution regs.


 It does have a turbo, alas, but not the electronics that its bigger sister has, so you don't have to reach for a computer to fix it.  It comes with a choice of three gearboxes--I think the straight shaft exit one has been chosen.  The guy checked with Autoprop in the UK who  confirmed that it's a match. He has worked on Amels and I think he will do a good job.


 The engine comes with a standard instrument panel which is probably adequate, but as I like to have instruments showing engine temperature and 12v output I may fit the de luxe panel which has both of those plus oil pressure at an extra 300 euros or so. The total costs will be approaching 20,000 Euros.


It should do the trick. We will know in a couple of weeks time.


 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 Piraeus

 


From: amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners@...> on behalf of greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: 01 June 2018 15:57:26
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower questions
 
A few questions for those of you who have repowered a Super Maramu—especially those who swapped out a Volvo TMD22.

What new engine did you use?
Did you use the same Hurth 250 transmission?
Are you happy with the new installation?
Where there any serious issues or complications?
Approximate cost?

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Central Chesapeake Bay, USA

------------------------------------
Posted by: greatketch@...
------------------------------------


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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger

Patrick McAneny
 

Mark, Reading your reply, I realized that I left out an important fact ,that my engine is a Volvo TMD22a . So my exchanger may be different from yours. I suspect it is, I see no where ,where a O ring would reside.All my small tubes were clear , what was partially block were two of the four larger holes in the bronze housing where antifreeze passes through.On my H/E there is two rubber boots on either end where the water enters and leaves from and they are secured with s.s.clamps. If they should leak ,and they are under pressure raw water could mix with the antifreeze.So if anyone with a TMD22a could tell me if there is Orings or silicone ,I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
Pat
SM3123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Fri, Jun 1, 2018 5:13 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger

 
Hi Pat,
 
It sounds as though you are on the right track.
 
The ends should be sealed with a rubber o-ring. Depending on the engine type there are sometimes 2 o-rings. There should not be silicone. You should be able to look through the tubes and see nothing but air. Any obstruction is going to cause you grief especially near the ends as this is where the sea-water changes direction. If you look at the design of the HE, you will see the how the seawater changes direction two times before moving on.
 
While you are in there, also check the after-cooler, if you have a turbo charger. This can be another are where the copper tubes become blocked and foul the flow of sea-water.
 
The anti freeze is moved along the outside of the tubes by the engine’s fresh water pump. The sea water is moved by the sea-water pump impeller on the inside of the tubes. The anti-freeze is cooled as it makes contact with the other side of the copper tube.
 
Hope this helps you.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 1, 2018 1:23 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger
 
 
I have had my heat exchanger off several times over the years ,and reinstalled it as the previous owner had and not questioned it ,until now. I have had an overheating issue for years and am resolved to solve it . The previous owner applied silicone on the end caps to seal them. Is this normally done? When I just removed the H/E I found that as I pushed the cap on the last time ,the silicone was pushed back and covered better than 50% of one of the four holes and about 25%of another. Which brings me to another question. Is the antifreeze forced through the holes or does it just come into contact with the tubes as it moves along with the flow,I assume the later.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans #123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger

Mark Erdos
 

Hi Pat,

 

It sounds as though you are on the right track.

 

The ends should be sealed with a rubber o-ring. Depending on the engine type there are sometimes 2 o-rings. There should not be silicone. You should be able to look through the tubes and see nothing but air. Any obstruction is going to cause you grief especially near the ends as this is where the sea-water changes direction. If you look at the design of the HE, you will see the how the seawater changes direction two times before moving on.

 

While you are in there, also check the after-cooler, if you have a turbo charger. This can be another are where the copper tubes become blocked and foul the flow of sea-water.

 

The anti freeze is moved along the outside of the tubes by the engine’s fresh water pump. The sea water is moved by the sea-water pump impeller on the inside of the tubes. The anti-freeze is cooled as it makes contact with the other side of the copper tube.

 

Hope this helps you.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 1, 2018 1:23 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger

 

 

I have had my heat exchanger off several times over the years ,and reinstalled it as the previous owner had and not questioned it ,until now. I have had an overheating issue for years and am resolved to solve it . The previous owner applied silicone on the end caps to seal them. Is this normally done? When I just removed the H/E I found that as I pushed the cap on the last time ,the silicone was pushed back and covered better than 50% of one of the four holes and about 25%of another. Which brings me to another question. Is the antifreeze forced through the holes or does it just come into contact with the tubes as it moves along with the flow,I assume the later.

Thanks,

Pat

SM Shenanigans #123


Re: Two questions

Thomas Peacock
 

We have also put some Raymarine instruments in the past 2 or 3 years. You only asked two questions, but I may drone on and give you more answers; I can only hope that at least two of them are correct.

We first replaced the original RM autohelm electronics with RM ACU-400, but left both mechanical drives in place. I used the Raymarine suggestion of hooking up the new fluxgate (also has an inertial system) and the main computer box using their proprietary SeaTalk-NG network. My understanding is that STNG uses the same communication protocols as NMEA 2000, just different connectors and cables. There is nothing to suggest that STNG needs to be grounded. I did not replace the rudder sensor that resides in the aft berth, it looked identical to the one that shipped with the new unit. Everything went fine for a year; I then updated the software, and the autohelm began to continuously turn the boat in circles. Changing the “A” and “B” power connections in the ACU-400 seemed to fix the problem (we were in blue water at the time). Later, the problem came back, I then disconnected the rudder sensor from the ACU-400, and things have been fine since then. I hope to get around to putting the new rudder sensor on, hopefully that will work, perhaps the old one was not compatible with the software update. However, the system functions quite well without the sensor.

The clutches are indeed 12V; the ACU-400 has a switch that allows you to choose. The computer can be powered by either 12V or 24 V. It also feeds 12V to the STNG.

We then installed a RM chart plotter, eS series, which works both by knobs and well as pinch-screen (like a smart phone). Very happy with it. 

Shortly before departing to the Caribbean, the original B&G instruments were fried (long story). I would have gone with RM instruments, but was concerned about the depth sensor fitting exactly into the through-hull for the old unit. Hence, I went with new B&G instruments. The B&G uses NMEA-2000; Raymarine sells an adapter so that STNG and NMEA-2000 can co-exist on one network. The NMEA-2000 is powered by the STNG, which gets its power from the ACU-400. All instruments play together very well, and display each other’s data. All power for the B&G instruments comes from the network alone.

We then added a RM AIS transceiver, using the “Marocain” labeled VHF antenna inside the mizzen mast. No problems. 

Finally, the original Furuno radar died three months ago at the age of 18 years. The new Raymarine CHIRP unit, which is all solid state, no warm-up needed, with some modifications of the original Furuno brackets, fit on the mizzen. It feeds right into the RM chart plotter, so there is no radar display down by the nav station.

Hope some of this is of use.

Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Rock Hall, MD  USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower questions

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Bill,

we replaced the TMD 22 with the Volvo D2 75. We retained the same Hurth (ZF)  gearbox and it was a perfect fit. The engine mounts were in exactly the same place so bolted to the Amel rail without re-drilling. We had to slightly modify the packers for height for bolting to the rail but it was no issue. We didn't touch the mounts for the c drive and when the motor was installed it just slid into the gearbox with no alignment issues at all. The exhaust is on the opposite side and my installers brought the exhaust across the engine and entered it to the existing muffler and exhaust. It would have been possible to route it up the other side of the engine by moving the muffler to the other side. That was my choice but the installers disagreed. There was no room to mount the 24 volt alternator where it was on the TMD 22 so the installer built a bracket for it on the  front of the engine. We used the same alternator. New wiring looms and instrument panel were part of the motor package. It is a push rod engine not overhead camshaft The motor is rated for max 3000 rpm and unlike the TMD that is the max under load or no load while the TMD used to rev to over 4000 no load. Another interesting rpm issue is that it will cheerfully pull 3000 rpm with the auto prop covered in barnacles. .

Cost. I will have to check that but I saved a lot by disassembling the old motor and doing as much of the install as possible myself leaving the technical and electronic to the installers. I was told by someone with a lot of experience that usually you should budget the installed cost to be double the on the floor motor cost. My cost was nothing like that so my efforts paid. The install was done by Ovlov marine in Auckland New Zealand.

Negatives. The heat exchanger is much harder to access for servicing. The waste gate on the turbo is harder to access for checking freedom of movement. The turbo began leaking oil within the warranty period and was replaced. Volvo offer an extended warranty period for a fee. Probably a good idea to take that. Remember any warranty relies on full proper and officially recorded maintenance.

We are happy with the motor after 800 hours.

I would suggest you talk to an engine re-conditioner and compare the cost a full top to bottom overhaul of the TMD. By the time we got to the replacement we had already done overhaul on all the external ancillary equipment, injectors injector pump turbo etc so the overhaul may have been a good option..

Hope this helps

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 02 June 2018 at 03:57 "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

A few questions for those of you who have repowered a Super Maramu—especially those who swapped out a Volvo TMD22.

What new engine did you use?
Did you use the same Hurth 250 transmission?
Are you happy with the new installation?
Where there any serious issues or complications?
Approximate cost?

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Central Chesapeake Bay, USA


 


 


Re: Repower questions

karkauai
 

One more thing about the Yanmar 4JH4HTE...
When talking to Yanmar in Ft Lauderdale, and New Jersey(?) I couldn’t find anyone who had a clue about a “floating” ground like Amel uses. Temp and oil pressure sensors and senders were difficult to find. If you decide on a 4JH4HTE, I can get those part numbers for you. The alternator has a ground wire that was connected to the block. It was rerouted to the battery negative and now there is no ground connection between the alternator and the block.I did post a drawing from Amel showing how the engine isolation is done.

Kent
SM243
Kristy
St Michaels MD


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas shut off [1 Attachment]

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill , I assumed the thread would be metric,Thanks for the info. 
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners ; Pat and Diane S/V Shenanigans
Sent: Fri, Jun 1, 2018 3:18 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas shut off [1 Attachment]

 
[Attachment(s) from Bill Rouse included below]
Pat,

I believe  that all electro-solenoid gas installations on SMs and 54s that I have seen are 3/8" pipe thread with a Burkert 6013 series solenoid valve.

See the attached.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970





On Fri, Jun 1, 2018 at 12:02 PM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Bill, I have been trying to see a photo of the galley area on another SM of my vintage,no luck. I think cannot find the power source and think I will just replace the switch and solenoid with 24v . Getting the right thread size may be a problem.
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Fri, Jun 1, 2018 12:02 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas shut off

 
Pat,

I believe your SM was modified. Other SMs the same vintage that I have seen had a manual valve. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Fri, Jun 1, 2018, 08:01 Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 
Kent, The solenoid is stamped 12v, originally I assumed it was 24v. I bought a more expensive tracer , but I can not get it to beep running the sensor all around the wires coming up into the compartment above the galley. I really wish all the wiring had been labeled. Is there a central point where 12v equipment is powered, like a buss bar somewhere. 
Thanks,
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Fri, Jun 1, 2018 8:13 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas shut off

 
Do you have power at the breaker on the 24v panel?  On Kristy the solenoid is 24v.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On May 31, 2018, at 8:18 AM, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 
I am not getting any power to my propane switch. I bought a wire tracer and cannot trace the wire. The solenoid is 12v . Does anyone know where the 12v power source would originate? I could not find a 12v buss bar ... The solenoid works , I jumped it across the starter battery , with a meter I cannot find any voltage at the switch. It could be as simple as a blown fuse.
Thanks,
Pat SM#123