Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Jib car removal

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Bill:  

Yes I considered amputating the track but there are two anchor screws in the track aft of the bolt and I would have been left with discolored gelcoat and screw holes where the amputated track was. Additionally, I wondered if Amel knew something that I didn’t regarding structural strength so I chose to be minimally invasive.  Still it was an emotional challenge to cut into my boat like this.
I am thinking of trying to use some clear Alodine treatment on the raw edges of the aluminum for corrosion control.

Gary




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Jib car removal

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Pat  I had the same thought as you, i.e. remove only one side.  Didn’t work, the “grip” of the car is so close tolerance that it can’t be rotated enough to slide off laterally from the remaining side of the “T”.  I incrementally whittled away at the sides of the “T” and found that only about 1/32 to 1/16th inch of the “T” top could be left in place on each side of the vertical web portion of the track.  

Don’t forget to protect the gel coat & metal parts from slips of the grinder.  I used an angle grinder for bulk work & Dremmel tool cut off wheels & grinding bits for closer tolerance work, finishing off with hand files. 

All the best,
Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
 AMEL SM 2000 # 335


Re: Steering stiffness (but not from rudder) ?

greatketch@...
 

Miles,

We haven't had any problem with the steering, but Harmonie's previous owners did.  You might find their blog post about the issue and the pictures helpful...


[Just noticed the blog posting address number after pasting it here...  I hope it isn't an omen for you!]

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Eleuthera, Bahamas


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: The mistery slick

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Thank you James of Sueño.

Will try disconnecting that tube as well.

Best,

Peregrinus
SM2K N. 350 (2002)
Hyères


Steering stiffness (but not from rudder) ?

smiles bernard
 

Hello there group

I’ve been wondering about the source of the stiffness of my steering`

Following good advice from this forum I removed the Morse steering cables from the rudder quadrant

Once disconnected the rudder turned really freely so the stiffness must be in the morse steering cables or in the rack and pinion/steering wheel assembly itself

Rather hopefully I added some grease via the grease nipples on the rack/pinion. Sadly this did not help reduce the stiffness 

I’d be interested to hear if anyone on the forum who has experience of somehow reducing friction in the steering cables and/or taking apart the rack and pinion for service. 

Or has any thoughts about the likely stiffness and any things i could try

I assume the next step is to unbolt the rack n pinion and take it apart but I’m a little concerned about how easy it’ll be to put back together again!

I’ve attached a pic of the rack/pinion assembly on my boat in case its the same as others on the forum...I’m not sure if this system is also used on the super maramus?

Any thoughts or advice very much appreciated

Does anyone have any experience of replacing the steering cables? If so i'd be really interested in how this was carried out and where the cables were sourced from 

Many thanks in advance

Miles
1985 Older Maramu



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Low Revs.........

Dan Carlson
 

Hello Thomas,  

Lori and I expect to be arriving in Martinique next Tues or Wed, 2 or 3 May.   We will also be heading to Bonaire.

I hope we can connect more next week.

Dan and Lori Carlson, an #387, sv BeBe




On Thu, Apr 26, 2018 at 12:45 PM, thomas. kleman
wrote:
 

Hello Amelians- Would love to get advice, so please indulge me. Situation: I'm in Martinique, three weeks from heading to Bonaire for hurricane season.........then Aruba, Columbia, Panama, and through the canal......i.e. about to head away from the island chain and abundant technical support.


Through owning L'ORIENT (SM2K #422) for 8 years (and being cheap), I've become fairly technically competent with the boat and haven't paid for a technician in years.........and owe a lot to the posts I've read here for that. While not every repair has been smooth I've found the answer is always in this site. In maintaining the boat, I try to balance opposing cliches......."don't fix it if it isn't broken"........and "you can't be afraid of your boat".


So, the other day I decide to test the engine and attempt to get the revs up while motoring...........can't get above 1900 RPM. No big deal........it must be a dirty prop, like always..........so I dive on the prop and find some peach fuzz and a few smalll barnacles but not enough (in my estimation) to cause the loss of revs (this has happened to me before quite often when I lived at Miami Beach Marina for 2 years).


So after cleaning the prop I test the boat again and am able to achieve 2800 RPMs without vibration or problem (a bit of additional exhaust smell maybe but I think that was wind direction). This still leaves me uncomfortable since I feel like there should have been more fouling on the prop.


I have in my spares 4 new fuel injectors, guides, fuel line, etc........everything I need to change the injectors; however this is a project I've never done before. I'm normally decisive in this situation but don't really have a direction figured out yet. So, what now ?


1) do nothing......engine has only 2600 hours and things seem OK now. Also, it might not even be the injectors !!!

2) pay a guy to change the injectors and test the engine (hate this option)

3) change the injectors myself (my uncle, the former chief mechanic for a major US city thinks I'm a wimp to even consider paying someone else.........says he could do this in an hour while drinking 3 Buds).


My hesistancy to reflexively go to the "do nothing" option is that if the problem re-emerges in someplace less saturated with potential help I will wish I had dealt with it now.


Thoughts ?




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raymarine AIS not working on Furuno Chart Plotter?

greatketch@...
 

I can not comment on Furuno comparability specifically, but our Raymarine AIS works just fine with our B&G instruments. It did require a special cable adapter to connect the proprietary “Seatalk” connectors into standard NMEA2k system.

AIS data transmitted on the NMEA bus protocol should be completely comparable across manufacturers, especially since the unit sold by Raymarine is an industry standard AIS with Raymarine labels and connectors.

The Raymarine AIS unit on our boat was installed by the previous owner, and he had only interfaced it via 0183 to his laptop. When we bought Harmonie she had no NMEA2k network. Other than the cable adapter, the AIS was very much plug n’ play.

One of the reasons I have avoided Raymarine in general is their attempts to close off their system as much as they can. The whole point of a NMEA2k system is so different manufacturer’s equipment can play well together.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Eleuthera, Bahamas


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Jib car removal

Patrick McAneny
 

Gary, I also need to remove my cars and I guess this is the solution , I can now stop scratching my head , I was going bald. Do you think the car could be remove if I only removed only one side of the rail ? I was wondering if you could pick up one side and then slide it over and out. It may be too tight of a fit to allow it to be angled up. I guess I can answer this for myself when I do the job . Thanks for the source of the bearings. 
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: amelliahona To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Fri, Apr 27, 2018 2:35 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Jib car removal

 
Hi Chris:

I just undertook removal of my jib sheet cars on my SM 2000 #335 for two reasons.  1. one of the plastic sliders was broken on the port side and 2. there was hurricane damage to the toe-rail on the starboard side.  In my opinion, Amel made an error in extending the track too far aft.  You never need the car back that far and even if you are able to remove the "stopper" bolt that is about 6 inches from the end of the track, the car will not come off the track as it hits the chainplate/lifting ring.   I was able to remove both of the bolts on my tracks, but then was still unable to remove the cars due to that interference.  So, I used an angle grinder and very carefully cut the top of the "T"  of the track on both sides of the vertical member for a distance of the length of the jib sheet car.  I radiuses the forward ends of the cut and dressed and filed the track for a finished look.. & nbsp;Now removal of the car is accomplished by removing the "stopper" bolt then sliding the car to the narrowed area of track and lifting upward.  I hope that makes sense.  It was a tedious project and I recommend placing protection of the fiberglass and areas of track you don't want to damage as slips with the angle grinder are bound to happen. 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
In repairs at Island Marine, Puerto Del Rey, Puerto Rico


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Jib car removal

 

Gary,

That is a perfect solution. Did you consider cutting the bitter end of the track completely off at a point just beyond the bolt?

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Low Revs.........

 

Don't underestimate the power of a single barnacle. A single barnacle located in just the right spot on a single prop blade on an AutoProp can cause that single blade to bight the water at a deeper angle, causing vibration and a loss of RPM.

AutoProp is the best all-round propeller for your SM, but does require meticulous cleaning for optimum efficiency of operation.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvos.......

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Thanks, Bill,


 Alas....in neutral the revs do what they oughta do.


I will have to risk  trying the local Volvo agent.


Incidentally, to anyone who has had Volvo work done near Athens, does Mantalas Kyriakos have a decent reputation ?      Anyone else ?


Ian


Pen Azen, SM 302, Athens, Greece


From: amelyachtowners@... on behalf of greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
Sent: 26 April 2018 19:52:36
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvos.......
 


Ian,

Will the engine run at 2800 rpm unloaded (in netural)?

If NOT, the answer is not fuel starvation (because that would take very little fuel) but a possible problem with the injection pump or speed governor.

If YES, then...  I am not sure...

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Somewhere around Eleuthera, Bahamas



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Strange 24DC leakage

 

Thomas,

Good Job!

I don't have an answer to your question, but the 54 bow thruster (as well as the SM) receives 24VDC from 2 sources:
  1. The control 24VDC source which originates at the helm
  2. The "run" 24VDC source which is direct to the bank
I believe there is a "resting" connection at relay #4 on the 54 between the "run" 24VDC source and the control 24VDC source. By "resting," I mean without any activation of any control switch.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970





On Thu, Apr 26, 2018 at 9:31 PM, 'S/V Garulfo' svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 


Hi everyone,

So we traced the leak back to the bow thruster.   Not sure yet what is wong with it. Chances are some carbon dust from the brushes creates the negative-grounding connection. 

We built another leak detector with a LED bulb and 2 wires to second the amel detector. We plug one end on the grounding and the other end to the positive of the 24V battery bank. A leak on the negative circuit would light the bulb. We found it's more sensitive than our amel built detector and would show a dim light even when the amel detector wouldn't light (to the naked eye). That may show our amel detector isn't 100% working order. I'll troubleshoot that next. 

One aspect of the issue we are still a bit confused about: 
Despite disconnecting the big cable that connects the battery bank to the front locker where the bow thruster (and others components like the windlass, etc) are, we would still see a strong leak. We had to disconnect another cable that goes in the engine room to remove the leak altogether. There we thought we had 2 sources of strong leaks.... 
We failed to trace the ER leak (while forelocker cable disconnected from the battery bank's end), so we concentrated on the forelocker one (while ER cable disconnected). When we eventually disconnected the bow thruster from its end and reconnected everything else from their end in the forelocker, we could see only a very dim leak (and undetected by the amel detector). We then reconnected the ER cable, expecting to see and diagnose the second strong leak, but it was gone... 

So is it possible that the ER cable was showing the bow thruster leak despite the main forelocker cable being disconnected? 

If yes (and it seems to be the case) then the methodology of disconnecting all-but-one cable from the batteries is somewhat flawed... The ER cable lead was a going roundabout.  

On a positive note, we now have a better handle on the cable soup (tidy, but opaque) in the ER. Bring on the labelling machine!

TBC


Fair winds,

Thomas 
GARULFO 
Amel 54 #122
Saint Martin, FWI


On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 at 14:24, rossidesigngroup@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

We  had the same.  Comes and goes.  Eventually we discovered it was dependent on another boat near us--  it would happen when the other boat docked andhooked up to shore power, then disappear when it left.  Months later, in another location it happened again.  I have had the feeling we were ending up detecting a leak in a nearby boat (boats at most marinas share the same ground, even use your zincs if they don't have them).  I have no idea how this is possible, maybe some of you with more electrical knowlege do!  We also have a galvanic isolator with detection as well and no correlation with its indicators.  The only time our galvanic isolator showed a leak was in a questionable marina in Greece.  Tests with a volt meter showed the galvanic isolator was solving the problem even though indicating a fault.  The Amel indicator showed no fault. BTW the addition of a galvanic isolator slowed our rudder zinc loss to near zero.  


Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI SM 429 In the water in Malta

PS Adm Bill--should I post my Amel WOB results?



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raymarine AIS not working on Furuno Chart Plotter?

Barry Connor
 

Hi Ruedi,

I have just completed the update from the originally fitted Furuno NMEA-0183 to NMEA-2000.
I did this in 2 stages. 
I stayed with mostly Furuno as I discovered that trying to mix created problems that bits were not talking to each other.
The AIS was supplied from Digital Yacht on recommendation from Furuno with the 12” Furuno EZ Touch display at the helm. The original depth and wind was converted from 0183 to 2000 by using an Actisense converter as the Furuno converter would not talk to the B&G Hydra. 2 new Furuno displays in place of the B&G displays on the dash panel.
I stayed was using the old Furuno Chart Plotter display for radar only.
I just completed the change over to the new Furuno digital radar and new depth and wind for NMEA 2000.
I now have complete digital and full NMEA-2000.
I took out all of the originally fitted B&G and Furuno and sold it to the owner of an ex charter boat, who did not want to over capitalize his boat investment. He took all of the wiring and cabling. I sold the Actisense converter on Ebay for £45.
I had a little bit of trial and error, Furuno and their seller (Cactus) were very helpful with advise on connecting and exchanging bits. B&G also helped with phone advise during the change over. 
What I found out was that you must be carful when mixing manufacturers bits.
I did all the change over myself with phone help from tech people at Furuno, B&G, Digital Yacht and Cactus.
I also installed a Digital Yacht PC with TV monitor at the chart table connected to the EZ Touch via HDMI cable.
I never felt that I was a bother to any of these suppliers even though I was phoning them a lot.
I did speak to Raymarine before I started this project but decided to stay with Furuno and who they recommended. Raymarine did not instill confidence in me to go with them, Furuno did.
Hope this is of some help and good luck with you upgrade.
I am very happy with my new system.

Best Regards

Barry and Penny
“Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Soon to depart:’
 Marina di Ragusa.  Sicily


On Apr 25, 2018, at 21:38, Rudolf@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello everyone in the Group


I have a Furuno AIS Receiver (passive) and I'd like to upgrade to a Transceiver (active). Now since I plan to go to Raymarine Electronics sometimes in the Future (Radar/Chartplotter etc.), I asked Reymarine for such a new active AIS box (I would have one part Raymarine already by then).

 

Now the Raymarine engineer came on board and said that the Raymarine AIS will not be compatible with my Furuno Chart plotter even if both are talking NMEA2000. I was surprised about this comment and I'm confused now weather this guy will only sell other new Raymarine components or is it real!?


When I insisted he said; YES that Raymarine AIS also talks NMEA2000 but still then it will not work correctly. His English was not perfect like mine, but I understood that this is Reymarine politics (they just don't want to have this configuration running). I have Furuno NAVnet vx2 on my AMEL-54 (2007).


Who else in the group experienced the same or does know if this is correct or wrong statement from Reymarine. If this is product politics I'm rather not going to Reymarine in the future.... ;-) 


Thanks for advice

Ruedi 

SY WASABI A54 #55




Re: Jib car removal

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Chris:  

My original reply didn't post for some reason.  I recently did the modification to the rail (as show in the photo in my other post).  

Amel clearly made an error in extending this track too far aft as there is no way to remove the car without modifying the track.  There is never any reason to run the car that far aft.

Even when the "stopper" bolt is removed the car runs into the chainplate/lifting ring, preventing it's removal.  The only way to remove the car is to cut the track with an angle grinder (at least that is how I did it), then radius and dress a section of the track that is the length of the car so that once the "stopper" bolt is removed the car can be slid aft and lifted from the track. 

When grinding make sure to protect the toe-rail and areas of the track you don't desire to cut as slips with an angle grinder are in inevitable.  
 
The plastic slides are available from Euro Marine Trading (USA), G30.40A PVC inserts 160 mm long  $18.25 set of 2 ea,  plus shipping 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
Currently Puerto Del Rey, Puerto Rico
 


---In amelyachtowners@..., <rettirc@...> wrote :

Greetings Amelians,


I have searched old messages and cannot find how to remove the jib cars.  I need to replace the plastic sliders. 


Car forward, runs into the lifeline upright and aft it runs into the chain plate where jib sheet block is located.  


I am having trouble undoing screws holding down track.  I am thinking of getting an impact screw driver.  


Thanks in advance. 


Chris Shiels


"Jaygo". SM224


Re: Jib car removal

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Chris:  I posted a picture here  https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/photos/albums/1845658937/lightbox/1742109589?orderBy=mtime&sortOrder=desc&photoFilter=ALL#zax/1742109589
Showing the modification I made to the jib sheet car track to allow removal of the car. 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona


Re: Jib car removal

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Chris:

I just undertook removal of my jib sheet cars on my SM 2000 #335 for two reasons.  1. one of the plastic sliders was broken on the port side and 2. there was hurricane damage to the toe-rail on the starboard side.  In my opinion, Amel made an error in extending the track too far aft.  You never need the car back that far and even if you are able to remove the "stopper" bolt that is about 6 inches from the end of the track, the car will not come off the track as it hits the chainplate/lifting ring.   I was able to remove both of the bolts on my tracks, but then was still unable to remove the cars due to that interference.  So, I used an angle grinder and very carefully cut the top of the "T"  of the track on both sides of the vertical member for a distance of the length of the jib sheet car.  I radiuses the forward ends of the cut and dressed and filed the track for a finished look..  Now removal of the car is accomplished by removing the "stopper" bolt then sliding the car to the narrowed area of track and lifting upward.  I hope that makes sense.  It was a tedious project and I recommend placing protection of the fiberglass and areas of track you don't want to damage as slips with the angle grinder are bound to happen. 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
In repairs at Island Marine, Puerto Del Rey, Puerto Rico


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Victron Auto Isolation Transformer

islandpearl2_sm2k332
 

Bill

I have one of these on board, the 3600w Victron Islolation transformer version on your data sheet, but the version with physical jumpers to move internally to select between 110v/220v input.

To be honest, it has been on board for over a year and I have yet to install it, as we have been at anchor mostly and it will really become most usefull to me when we reach the east coast of USA where I may leave the boat in a marina for a few months.

The 3600w version is pretty heavy and I've been trying to find a suitable position for it. My current plan is to bolt it on the shelf up behind the Onan generator, bolted through the fwd wall of the life raft (200L spare diesel in my case  in jerry cans) locker as that is close to the shore power input cable box. My only issue is that I already have so much weight on that side as I often have the spare fuel full at present crossing so many oceans.

Also, I have not yet worked out how to best connect it into that special Amel shore power junction box........waiting for someone smarter with electronics (like you!) to do it first so I can copy you. I never just let any marine electrician loose on Island Pearl until I am sure that the Amel Guru's on this site have already pioneered connections in the correct "AMEL" way.

After seeing my unit (and trying to purchase it off me...which I refused) a good cruising friend in Malaysia purchased and installed the exact same unit on his boat. He has been extremely satisfied with it since.

Very keen to follow this thread and see where and how you connect it Bill. These are the most solid and robust isolation transformers you can purchase with the added advantage of a very heavy duty 110/220v transformer you can trust, however from what I have been advised, it is better to go with the 3600w instead of the 2000w

Best regards

Colin Streeter
SV Island Pearl II, Amel 53 #332
Gan, Addu Atoll, Maldives
(leaving for Chagos this next week)

On Thu, Apr 26, 2018 at 11:03 PM, john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Porter. (and Bill)  forgive me if I am jumping in at the wrong point.  


Porter the transformer is for regulating shore power onto the boat.  It gives one the option to use different voltage inputs on the SP cable and get 220/230v supplied to the boat's AC distribution panel. Charging the battery is a different matter.

 Porter, I installed the MagnaSine  4124 inverter-charger over Christmas (2017) and have had good experience with it so far.  I corresponded a lot with Bill Kinney during the installation trying to make sure I did not foul up the Amel bonding set up.  I think we worked through it OK.  The unit is wired between the auto transfer switch (the one that selects the generator or shore power for AC) and acts as a charger if AC is present upstream (from SP or the genset,) or as an inverter if there is no other source of AC.  I set it up to be the "whole house" inverter so it supplies the main AC distribution panel.   We routinely run the microwave, vacuum, food processor...etc from the battery.    I paid about $1900 USD  for the unit plus the remote control unit, which you will need.

As a charger it supplies 63 amps to the battery at the start and ramps down as the battery voltage comes up.  It is programmable so you can set it to which ever battery type you have.   We have AGMs and it does the absorb phase at 28.6V then floats at 26.5V  We run in it in parallel with a 40A charger to speed things along at the start. 

I installed the unit in the engine room forward port side.  It has internal cooling fans, and internal temperature sensors to shut it down if it gets too hot. It seems to be happy there so far.  

If you have a charger that is becoming unreliable  I definitely recommend getting a new charger  while you are near good shipping points.  We now have three chargers, in addition to the solar, engine alternator, and shaft alternator.  Can't have too much.

   See you soon,  John and Colleen

SV Annie  SM 37
St Thomas, USVI





--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445


Jib car removal

rettirc@...
 

Greetings Amelians,


I have searched old messages and cannot find how to remove the jib cars.  I need to replace the plastic sliders. 


Car forward, runs into the lifeline upright and aft it runs into the chain plate where jib sheet block is located.  


I am having trouble undoing screws holding down track.  I am thinking of getting an impact screw driver.  


Thanks in advance. 


Chris Shiels


"Jaygo". SM224


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: The mistery slick

James Alton
 

Hyères,

   The quickly oil resoaked air filter is also making me think that engine oil could be causing the oil spots on the water.  A simple test to check to see if the engine oil is coming up from the tube that vents the crankcase is to  decouple the tube from the intake, place it in a bucket and run the engine briefly and see if you have oil spatters in the bucket.  If you have a lot of blow by from the crankcase you will also see what looks like exhaust coming from the tube,  which hopefully will not be the case since that may mean that you have more serious problems.  I am not familiar with the exact crankcase ventilation system on your engine but most systems also incorporate a drain back systemso that much of the oil blown into the engine intake from the crankcase ventilation system can drain back to the crankcase.  If the drain back system is not not functioning properly, oil can pool in the intake system and be drawn into the engine.

   It sounds like you have been pretty meticulous with your engine maintenance so hopefully this turns out to be something simple.  

Best of luck,

James
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Apr 26, 2018, at 1:41 PM, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Thank you Jeff.

Will have the transmission cooler tested.

Regards,

Peregrinus
SM2K N. 350 (2002)
Hyères



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Strange 24DC leakage

Sv Garulfo
 


Hi everyone,

So we traced the leak back to the bow thruster.   Not sure yet what is wong with it. Chances are some carbon dust from the brushes creates the negative-grounding connection. 

We built another leak detector with a LED bulb and 2 wires to second the amel detector. We plug one end on the grounding and the other end to the positive of the 24V battery bank. A leak on the negative circuit would light the bulb. We found it's more sensitive than our amel built detector and would show a dim light even when the amel detector wouldn't light (to the naked eye). That may show our amel detector isn't 100% working order. I'll troubleshoot that next. 

One aspect of the issue we are still a bit confused about: 
Despite disconnecting the big cable that connects the battery bank to the front locker where the bow thruster (and others components like the windlass, etc) are, we would still see a strong leak. We had to disconnect another cable that goes in the engine room to remove the leak altogether. There we thought we had 2 sources of strong leaks.... 
We failed to trace the ER leak (while forelocker cable disconnected from the battery bank's end), so we concentrated on the forelocker one (while ER cable disconnected). When we eventually disconnected the bow thruster from its end and reconnected everything else from their end in the forelocker, we could see only a very dim leak (and undetected by the amel detector). We then reconnected the ER cable, expecting to see and diagnose the second strong leak, but it was gone... 

So is it possible that the ER cable was showing the bow thruster leak despite the main forelocker cable being disconnected? 

If yes (and it seems to be the case) then the methodology of disconnecting all-but-one cable from the batteries is somewhat flawed... The ER cable lead was a going roundabout.  

On a positive note, we now have a better handle on the cable soup (tidy, but opaque) in the ER. Bring on the labelling machine!

TBC


Fair winds,

Thomas 
GARULFO 
Amel 54 #122
Saint Martin, FWI


On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 at 14:24, rossidesigngroup@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

We  had the same.  Comes and goes.  Eventually we discovered it was dependent on another boat near us--  it would happen when the other boat docked andhooked up to shore power, then disappear when it left.  Months later, in another location it happened again.  I have had the feeling we were ending up detecting a leak in a nearby boat (boats at most marinas share the same ground, even use your zincs if they don't have them).  I have no idea how this is possible, maybe some of you with more electrical knowlege do!  We also have a galvanic isolator with detection as well and no correlation with its indicators.  The only time our galvanic isolator showed a leak was in a questionable marina in Greece.  Tests with a volt meter showed the galvanic isolator was solving the problem even though indicating a fault.  The Amel indicator showed no fault. BTW the addition of a galvanic isolator slowed our rudder zinc loss to near zero.  


Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI SM 429 In the water in Malta

PS Adm Bill--should I post my Amel WOB results?