Date   

Re: Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block

 

Ruedi,

The issue is that so many things changed during the production of the 54, I cannot be sure, but I know the 54 started with 6 each Vetus K50 motor mounts as shown in the Amel 54 Users Manual.

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CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Apr 28, 2021 at 4:36 PM Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:

Dear Amelians

 

I’m in the process to change Engine Mounts and not sure what type or brand of Mounts where originally used on the A54 with the Volvo D3-110.

Somebody told me that Amel used on the Amel54 with the Volvo D3-110C the Volvo Mounts. I’m not sure and can’t identify which type and brand are installed on Wasabi.

 

Maybe somebody knows which model/type originally are installed. Otherwise I’m confident that Bill Rouse knows it. 😉

@Bill; I haven’t found any reference in your AMEL School Book.

 

Best regards

Ruedi

SY WASABI

A54 #55

 

 

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> im Auftrag von Herbert Lackner <herbert@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Sonntag, 9. Februar 2020 um 11:01
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block

 

Woody,  search for "alignment" in the forum and you will find a lot of information, also what kind of mounts you need

a summary with info from Olivier:
 

in order to re-align your engine with the C-drive, you need a fixed coupling as on the pictures and drawing.

You don't need to install the shaft alternator pulley while checking alignment. 

 

Before touching the tools, make pictures and take notes (measurements of all the fittings, position of the nuts on the rubber mounts, position of the engine on the steel cradle, position of the shaft brake disc, etc...).

Start with disconnecting the hoses that could prevent you from moving the engine backwards on its cradle.

Then undo the coupling bolts and the engine steel supports' bolts (attaching the engine on the steel cradle).

Then move the engine backwards enough to remove the coupling bolts.

 

Then comes the alignment process.

AMEL uses a tool which is a steel coupling machined so that its aft side "enters" the gear-box flange (see pictures and drawing). You can also pre-install the new coupling and adjust the position of the mounts.

First bring the engine forward and make sure the coupling is centered with the gear-box flange, and can enter the gap in the flange. 

Then move the engine a little bit backwards and check that the gap between the flange and the aft side of the coupler is even all around the circumference. To adjust this, you need "thickness wedges" (used in the automotive industry) and play with the rubber mounts nuts to make the gap even.

Then bring the engine forward and tighten the bolts on the cradle and on the mounts.

 

The advantage of using the tool AMEL uses is that it is easier to install while checking the gaps.

If you need to make one, here's a drawing of the alignment tool for a YANMAR 4JH3-HTE.

The inside diameter (C-drive input shaft) is 35 mm.

The outside diameter is 100 mm.

The diameter of the part that enters the gear-box flange cylindric gap is 62.8 mm, thickness 3 mm.

 

You should use a VETUS fixed coupling for 35mm shafts, then have it machined to make the 62.8mm "plug" and drilled for the four bolts that should match the flange holes.


The process is the same for Santorins or for Super Maramus.


more info from me: 
* Amel does not sell the alignment tool, I had it made by a machine shop from Aluminium
* I would change also the C-Drive mounts when you change the engine mounts.
* Make sure that the c-drive is "open" and "sits on his rubber sleeve" before you do the engine alignment.
* I used a tool like this to lift the engine https://www.expondo.at/steinberg-systems-kettenzug-2-000-kg-3-m-10030374?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw9i79ZrE5wIVFuDtCh07Aw33EAQYAiABEgKPs_D_BwE . the job can be done by one person

fair winds, herbert
SN120



Re: Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Dear Amelians

 

I’m in the process to change Engine Mounts and not sure what type or brand of Mounts where originally used on the A54 with the Volvo D3-110.

Somebody told me that Amel used on the Amel54 with the Volvo D3-110C the Volvo Mounts. I’m not sure and can’t identify which type and brand are installed on Wasabi.

 

Maybe somebody knows which model/type originally are installed. Otherwise I’m confident that Bill Rouse knows it. 😉

@Bill; I haven’t found any reference in your AMEL School Book.

 

Best regards

Ruedi

SY WASABI

A54 #55

 

 

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> im Auftrag von Herbert Lackner <herbert@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Sonntag, 9. Februar 2020 um 11:01
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block

 

Woody,  search for "alignment" in the forum and you will find a lot of information, also what kind of mounts you need

a summary with info from Olivier:
 

in order to re-align your engine with the C-drive, you need a fixed coupling as on the pictures and drawing.

You don't need to install the shaft alternator pulley while checking alignment. 

 

Before touching the tools, make pictures and take notes (measurements of all the fittings, position of the nuts on the rubber mounts, position of the engine on the steel cradle, position of the shaft brake disc, etc...).

Start with disconnecting the hoses that could prevent you from moving the engine backwards on its cradle.

Then undo the coupling bolts and the engine steel supports' bolts (attaching the engine on the steel cradle).

Then move the engine backwards enough to remove the coupling bolts.

 

Then comes the alignment process.

AMEL uses a tool which is a steel coupling machined so that its aft side "enters" the gear-box flange (see pictures and drawing). You can also pre-install the new coupling and adjust the position of the mounts.

First bring the engine forward and make sure the coupling is centered with the gear-box flange, and can enter the gap in the flange. 

Then move the engine a little bit backwards and check that the gap between the flange and the aft side of the coupler is even all around the circumference. To adjust this, you need "thickness wedges" (used in the automotive industry) and play with the rubber mounts nuts to make the gap even.

Then bring the engine forward and tighten the bolts on the cradle and on the mounts.

 

The advantage of using the tool AMEL uses is that it is easier to install while checking the gaps.

If you need to make one, here's a drawing of the alignment tool for a YANMAR 4JH3-HTE.

The inside diameter (C-drive input shaft) is 35 mm.

The outside diameter is 100 mm.

The diameter of the part that enters the gear-box flange cylindric gap is 62.8 mm, thickness 3 mm.

 

You should use a VETUS fixed coupling for 35mm shafts, then have it machined to make the 62.8mm "plug" and drilled for the four bolts that should match the flange holes.


The process is the same for Santorins or for Super Maramus.


more info from me: 
* Amel does not sell the alignment tool, I had it made by a machine shop from Aluminium
* I would change also the C-Drive mounts when you change the engine mounts.
* Make sure that the c-drive is "open" and "sits on his rubber sleeve" before you do the engine alignment.
* I used a tool like this to lift the engine https://www.expondo.at/steinberg-systems-kettenzug-2-000-kg-3-m-10030374?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw9i79ZrE5wIVFuDtCh07Aw33EAQYAiABEgKPs_D_BwE . the job can be done by one person

fair winds, herbert
SN120



Re: Who can guess what this is

Ian Townsend
 

Main salon table extension.

Ian & Margaret
Loca Lola II
SM153

On Apr 28, 2021, at 3:35 PM, Mark Garver via groups.io <mgarver@...> wrote:

Greetings! This has been in the front hanging locker and I only saw part of it and had thought it was the small cockpit table. Today, I pulled it out and I have no idea what this is for. The stainless “legs” do not move and look like they are meant to be inserted/installed in something, somewhere. Anyone have the answer?

<IMG_6812.jpeg>


Re: Who can guess what this is

Ann-Sofie, S/Y Lady Annila
 

Here you can see it mounted.


Hälsningar
Ann-Sofie


Skickat från min iPhone

28/04/2021 kl. 21:02 skrev Ann-Sofie <ann-sofie@...>:

It is en extension to the salon table towards the small sofa. 
Under the big table there is a sort of rings mounted, where you stick the metal ”legs” into. 

regards
Ann-Sofie 
S/Y Lady Annila SM 232, 1998


Skickat från min iPhone

28/04/2021 kl. 20:39 skrev sherman.gifford via groups.io <swgifford@...>:


It's a leaf to extend the salon dining table - enjoy!! 



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "Mark Garver via groups.io" <mgarver@...>
Date: 4/28/21 3:35 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: AmelYachtOwners@groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Who can guess what this is

Greetings! This has been in the front hanging locker and I only saw part of it and had thought it was the small cockpit table. Today, I pulled it out and I have no idea what this is for. The stainless “legs” do not move and look like they are meant to be inserted/installed in something, somewhere. Anyone have the answer?

<IMG_6812.jpeg>


Re: Who can guess what this is

Ann-Sofie, S/Y Lady Annila
 

It is en extension to the salon table towards the small sofa. 
Under the big table there is a sort of rings mounted, where you stick the metal ”legs” into. 

regards
Ann-Sofie 
S/Y Lady Annila SM 232, 1998


Skickat från min iPhone

28/04/2021 kl. 20:39 skrev sherman.gifford via groups.io <swgifford@...>:


It's a leaf to extend the salon dining table - enjoy!! 



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "Mark Garver via groups.io" <mgarver@...>
Date: 4/28/21 3:35 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: AmelYachtOwners@groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Who can guess what this is

Greetings! This has been in the front hanging locker and I only saw part of it and had thought it was the small cockpit table. Today, I pulled it out and I have no idea what this is for. The stainless “legs” do not move and look like they are meant to be inserted/installed in something, somewhere. Anyone have the answer?

<IMG_6812.jpeg>


Re: Who can guess what this is

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Mark, on Ocean Pearl it is another Amel wonder of attention to detail. The grain on the table and the extension match

 Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 29 April 2021 at 07:49 "Mark Garver via groups.io" <mgarver@...> wrote:

Wow! It is! Thanks! Who knew! 

Mark Garver
S/V It’s Good
SM #105

On Apr 28, 2021, at 3:37 PM, Dan Wilcox via groups.io < dwilcox123@...> wrote:

 
I vote table extension.

Thanks, Dan
Feierabend SM#86

On Wednesday, April 28, 2021, 12:35:13 PM PDT, Mark Garver via groups.io < mgarver@...> wrote:


Greetings! This has been in the front hanging locker and I only saw part of it and had thought it was the small cockpit table. Today, I pulled it out and I have no idea what this is for. The stainless “legs” do not move and look like they are meant to be inserted/installed in something, somewhere. Anyone have the answer?

<IMG_6812.jpeg>
<IMG_6812.jpeg>


 


 


Re: Who can guess what this is

Mark Garver
 

Wow! It is! Thanks! Who knew! 

Mark Garver
S/V It’s Good
SM #105

On Apr 28, 2021, at 3:37 PM, Dan Wilcox via groups.io <dwilcox123@...> wrote:

I vote table extension.

Thanks, Dan
Feierabend SM#86

On Wednesday, April 28, 2021, 12:35:13 PM PDT, Mark Garver via groups.io <mgarver@...> wrote:


Greetings! This has been in the front hanging locker and I only saw part of it and had thought it was the small cockpit table. Today, I pulled it out and I have no idea what this is for. The stainless “legs” do not move and look like they are meant to be inserted/installed in something, somewhere. Anyone have the answer?

<IMG_6812.jpeg>
<IMG_6812.jpeg>


Re: Who can guess what this is

JB Duler
 

Main table extension. But sometimes the table has been "modified" or removed, so thank extension will not fit anymore.
What boat are you on Mark?
--
John Bernard "JB" Duler
San Francisco
Meltem # 19, Western Med


Re: Who can guess what this is

sherman.gifford
 

It's a leaf to extend the salon dining table - enjoy!! 



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "Mark Garver via groups.io" <mgarver@...>
Date: 4/28/21 3:35 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: AmelYachtOwners@groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Who can guess what this is

Greetings! This has been in the front hanging locker and I only saw part of it and had thought it was the small cockpit table. Today, I pulled it out and I have no idea what this is for. The stainless “legs” do not move and look like they are meant to be inserted/installed in something, somewhere. Anyone have the answer?


Re: Who can guess what this is

Dan Wilcox
 

I vote table extension.

Thanks, Dan
Feierabend SM#86

On Wednesday, April 28, 2021, 12:35:13 PM PDT, Mark Garver via groups.io <mgarver@...> wrote:


Greetings! This has been in the front hanging locker and I only saw part of it and had thought it was the small cockpit table. Today, I pulled it out and I have no idea what this is for. The stainless “legs” do not move and look like they are meant to be inserted/installed in something, somewhere. Anyone have the answer?


Who can guess what this is

Mark Garver
 

Greetings! This has been in the front hanging locker and I only saw part of it and had thought it was the small cockpit table. Today, I pulled it out and I have no idea what this is for. The stainless “legs” do not move and look like they are meant to be inserted/installed in something, somewhere. Anyone have the answer?


Re: High Presure Limitor for the Watermaker

heinz@quetzal.berlin
 


Does anybody no where I can find the limitor in the USA I am in the Bahamas on the Moment helping my frend  Andreas on his SM 2000, hul Nr 372. Thanks Heinz Sailing Vessel Quetzal. 

--
Hello 
Since yesterday when I tried to park in a box in a marina in Auckland my bow thruster motor failed. 
If I turn the beam to the left or right the whole power supply breaks down for a moment. After that the power is back. 
I took the rudder off and it can be turned perfectly by hand. 
But the same happens with the engine. No power for a few seconds, all instruments off, no rotation of the motor. 
Does anyone know this problem. 
Does anyone know how I can find out if it's the motor or maybe a relay that doesn't work. 
Can I test the motor without a relay, maybe on the 4 cables marked D1, D2, and A1, A2?
I am grateful for a quick answer.
Heinz SY Quetzal, SM 2000, 292


High Presure Limitor for Watertank.

heinz@quetzal.berlin
 

Dies anybody no where I can find the limitor in the USA I am in the Bahamas on the Moment gelohnt my frend  Andreas on his SM 2000, hul Nr 372. Thanks Heinz Sailing Vessel Quetzal. 

--
Hello 
Since yesterday when I tried to park in a box in a marina in Auckland my bow thruster motor failed. 
If I turn the beam to the left or right the whole power supply breaks down for a moment. After that the power is back. 
I took the rudder off and it can be turned perfectly by hand. 
But the same happens with the engine. No power for a few seconds, all instruments off, no rotation of the motor. 
Does anyone know this problem. 
Does anyone know how I can find out if it's the motor or maybe a relay that doesn't work. 
Can I test the motor without a relay, maybe on the 4 cables marked D1, D2, and A1, A2?
I am grateful for a quick answer.
Heinz SY Quetzal, SM 2000, 292


Re: Mastervolt Alpha High-Output Alternator Temperature when charging LiFePO4

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Dean,

You are right, we do have a different alternator. But this makes me wonder even more as the compact alternators have much more airgaps to let the heat out then the high output ones. The fans on these alternators are mounted internally.
I guess the build of the high output ones is more heat resistant. What I don't like about this is that most high-current devices use temperature sensors (shore chargers, solar chargers, etc). What if the airflow gets restricted (for example engine room ventilation breaks down) or a bearing runs hot?
For me it was easy as I did no have to buy any additional things to achieve temperature control on the alternator. But I still find it strange that Mastervolt claims you don't need it. In luxury cars nowadays the alternator is even water-cooled and I'm pretty sure those have less work to do then a lithium charging alternator.

But you could just stick a Amazon remote thermometer on the alternator to see what it's doing and build confidence that way.

Cheers,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Passageway berth wall fabric cleaning advice

Paul Stascavage
 

Paul,

We spent much of this past winter in cold weather climates and that area was one of the first we noticed the mold stains.  We tried vinegar as well as many other products, but the only one that worked for us on that material, in a timely fashion, was Tilex (which contains a significant amount of bleach).  Spray it on with a good deal of ventilation and wait a few hours.  Dry the area with a fan to get rid of the bleach odors.  Repeat if necessary. That material is colorfast but the bleach will lighten the color a bit as it bleaches out old dirt and grime.  We had to treat the entire area to end up with a uniformly clean surface.

Something else that we found that works on fabric and carpet (but takes a good deal of time) is what piratical sailor (https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/fighting-mildew-mold-and-lichen) calls formula b:

2 tablespoons of baking soda
2 tablespoons of borax
1 tablespoon of trisodiumphosphate (TSP)

Mix in 1 quart of warm water with stirring.

What  worked for us on fabric and carpet is to spray the area with the formula b and let sit for a few days.  Come back with vinegar and a brush.  Repeat until the stains are completely gone, which could be 3 or 4 applications. 

If you spent a good deal of time under those conditions, I suggest looking around the boat for other potentially impacted areas.

Cabinets, lockers, closets, under berths, etc. Any areas close to the hull is where there would have been excessive condensation and possibly a problem.

We just completed an extensive cleaning of the boat from stem to stern.  Feel free to email me (paul dot stascavage at icloud dot com) if you find your problem is more extensive than you thought and I will share what I have learned.

All the best,

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Exploring Brunswick, GA

www.RitaKathryn.com


Re: Mastervolt Alpha High-Output Alternator Temperature when charging LiFePO4

Dean Gillies
 

On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 08:33 PM, Scott SV Tengah wrote:
I've had it run at full output from 30% SOC, so that's around 4 hours at full "realistic" output.
Hi Scott,
That's about the highest load scenario I'm contemplating. That gives me confidence.

I hear you re managing the charging sources. My system design includes a "charge enable" signal from the BMS which is only active when the BMS is completely happy for the batteries to be charged. BMS fault conditions requiring charging to cease, including an "almost-full" battery, disable the alternator as well as managing the Smart Solar MPPT, Multi-Plus 3000 and Mastervolt 100/40 chargers. The wonders of Multi-Plus, CAN-Bus and the Victron Cerbo GX!

Best regards
Dean
SV Stella A54-154

 
    
 


Re: Mastervolt Alpha High-Output Alternator Temperature when charging LiFePO4

Dean Gillies
 

Hi Arno,
I don't believe that is my alternator that your manual is referencing. My alternator is not the "Compact" version, its the "High Output" version. 
I have attached the manual, and I have the 110A variant.

Section 4.3 discusses the temperature issue, and recommends a temperature sensor for "Non-Mastervolt Alternators", and specifically says this:  "The Mastervolt high power output alternators do not need this alternator temperature sensor since they are designed to charge cyclic used batteries".

Mastervolt seem to have confidence in these High Output Alternators... maybe I should too ??

Best regards
Dean
SV Stella A54-154


Re: Mastervolt Alpha High-Output Alternator Temperature when charging LiFePO4

Scott SV Tengah
 

Dean,

I've been running the MV 110 alternator with my 450AH Victron lifepo4 battery setup for over two years now, nearly full time live aboard. I've had it run at full output from 30% SOC, so that's around 4 hours at full "realistic" output.

I talked to a MV tech and they swore up and down that I didn't need to because their alternator can handle lithium just fine, but I still installed the included battery temp monitor onto the alternator and used the MV software to configure it to taper output if temp gets above a certain point. Can't recall that point and I'm not at the boat right now.

Note I switched out to the MV AP2 as the AP3 wasn't available in my area when I was installing.

Over the last 2+ years, the MV110 has not once suffered power taper due to overheating. It has, of course, tapered due to cell imbalance, which is why I keep harping that people need to understand how their system reacts when the inevitable high SOC, high charge rate induced cell imbalance occurs. On my system, as you know, the BMS just tells the chargers to stop charging, without any disconnect. 

Hope this gives you some comfort.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Mastervolt Alpha High-Output Alternator Temperature when charging LiFePO4

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Dean,

See page six  of the added document and the notes on page 13

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: 5 piece stuffing box

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Bill, I had the same problem and did the same. After a tightening or two in time to come I will add the third.

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 26 April 2021 at 10:23 Bill Kinney <cruisingconsulting@...> wrote:

Also with the dual caveats that this might be confusing, and that this is a report of success, NOT advice...

Like many Amel owners, when it was finally time to repack our rudder I was very frustrated with the fit of the standard packing.  No matter how hard I worked it, with all the tricks that have been discussed here--and a few more--I could not get the packing compressed enough to get enough threads on the plastic nut engaged to properly torque it down.  Applying all the torque I could without stripping threads wasn't enough: It leaked in a seaway.

With another passage coming up quickly, and fresh out of ideas and time, I was getting desperate, and desperate times call for desperate measures. Figuring that doing nothing wasn't an option, I tried the last thing I could think of:  I ripped out the top piece of packing, and tightened the nut down hard on the remaining two.  Success!  No leaks--not a drop--even in some pretty rough sailing.  Two well fit, tightly compressed rings of packing did a much better job of keeping the ocean on the outside of the boat than three lightly compressed rings.

I am not at all sure this is a satisfactory long term solution, but it got us where we needed to go and kept us dry. I have ONE more trick up my sleeve that I want to try on this.  I'll report back here if it works...

Bill Kinney
SM160,  Harmonie
Hollywood, Florida, USA

1581 - 1600 of 59233