On Jul 29, 2020, at 12:46 PM, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Hi David,

The problem is that the blue lights are switched via resistors. Blue LEDs are by their nature very sensitive to overvoltage. You should supply LEDs ideally with a current source instead of a voltage source. A current source supplies a certain current and regulates the voltage to get to that current.
Using resistors is (especially) for blue LEDs a poor choice as your supply voltage can be anything from 24 to 29 volt. For a blue LED this means that when you pick a resistor suitable for 29 Volt, the thing will hardly light up at 24 volt. Picking a resistor for 24 Volt will fry the LED at 29 volt. This is why these switch panel lights die.

What I've did is count the number of LEDs (pairs) you need, multiply this with the optimal current for each pair of LEDs. The pairs are set in series on the PCB so the optimal current for one LED is the same as for the pair. I'm not sure anymore but I think I got to 500 mA for the lot. Then I bought a converter similar to this one from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Supplies-25-2W-15-50V-500mA/dp/B00HKJAW20/ref=sr_1_63?crid=3YQWWEX2UH14&dchild=1&keywords=constant+current+led+driver&qid=1596040540&sprefix=constant+current+%2Caps%2C266&sr=8-63
This is a constant current supply to feed all the leds (in pairs). This has been working excellent for some time now. Each individual LED is fed their optimal current. I can't find the LEDs anymore that I bought from Amazon at the time, but I bought them in small bulk similar to these https://www.amazon.com/100pcs-Ultra-Bright-Emitting-Diffused/dp/B01GE4WEGI/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=blue+LED+5mm&qid=1596041080&sr=8-8

Hope this helps,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

WAIT and read this before you order!

Not all Onan Generators in all SMs and 54s are created equally. Use your ohmmeter to check for continuity between the terminals on the temperature sensor on the exhaust elbow. Some Onan models have part 309-0295-01 which is Normally Closed. Other models have part 309-0295 is Normally Open. Which sensor you have depends on your Onan Model and Serial. Check the parts manual for your model to determine how to test this sensor. Or call your Cummins/Onan dealer with your model and serial number.

Good to know: The normal temperature of the exhaust elbow is about 50C and the normal temperature of the coolant is about 80C. Were these in range? How many hours since the last impeller change? Should be less than 300hrs or 12 months. The impeller blades can look OK, but the impeller can be defective. You can have some water flow, but not enough to keep the elbow below about 70C (the approximate cut-off temp).

Also, remember there are a number of sensors in the shutdown system, and these switches will fail. I replaced the exhaust manifold temperature switch and the water-flow switch because of an accumulation of debris inside. I also had one situation with a loose connection on a switch. Did you use your laser temperature gun to measure temperature? 

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On Wed, Jul 29, 2020 at 4:02 AM Mark Pitt <mark_pitt@...> wrote:

Eric,

I will order one.  I have never had an issue with mine but you never know.  Thanks for doing this.

Best,

Mark

Sabbatical III, Sm#419, Rhode Island, USA

On Jul 29, 2020, at 1:13 AM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

 Mike,
These are simple thermal switches. They are normally closed.
If the circuit opens up the genset stops.
My problem is sometimes they burn out and other times I hit the switch and it separates.
Fair Winds,
Eric

On July 28, 2020 at 10:41 PM "Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)" <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:

Thanks Eric. Sent you a message with order details.

When these fail, go bad, or break, how do you know? Does it prevent the genset from starting/running? Or does it allow the genset to overheat if there are issues with the cooling system (broken impeller for example) and potentially damage things?

Cheers,

Mike Longcor

SV Trilogy SM23

Opua, NZ

 

Hi Soraya,

I operate them every moth or so. Not much more you can do other then spraying them with Corrosion-X. But the reality is they do get bad as these are pretty standard chromed brass seacocks. Getting proper bronze ones is close to impossible for the thread that is used on the outlet pipe. At least I was not able to source them. I can source bronze ones with tapered thread no problem, but not with a straight thread.
I had to replace the forward seacock as it was leaking via the shaft that operates the ball. It is a challenge to do. I ended up with a badly bruised upper arm for a week or so. Use Loctite 577 to seal the threads positioning the seacock in the proper rotational position. Before screwing it on with the Loctite, first do a dry-fit and count the number of rotations you need to make to fit it as far as it will go. 

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

On Jul 29, 2020, at 1:13 AM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

 Mike,
These are simple thermal switches. They are normally closed.
If the circuit opens up the genset stops.
My problem is sometimes they burn out and other times I hit the switch and it separates.
Fair Winds,
Eric

On July 28, 2020 at 10:41 PM "Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)" <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:

Thanks Eric. Sent you a message with order details.

When these fail, go bad, or break, how do you know? Does it prevent the genset from starting/running? Or does it allow the genset to overheat if there are issues with the cooling system (broken impeller for example) and potentially damage things?

Cheers,

Mike Longcor

SV Trilogy SM23

Opua, NZ

 

On 29 Jul 2020, at 05:51, Sv Garulfo <svgarulfo@...> wrote:

Hello
Our SSB Antenna comes in 2 parts.
The threading that connects them has gotten loose and we would like to find away to secure them that doesn’t impact the transmission.
Has anyone had this issue? Any recommendations on how to fix this?

Thanks

Soraya
Garulfo
A54-122
Tahiti