Date   

Re: Galley refrigerator not cooling

Denis Foster
 

Hello,

Once I had to have a refill by a professional frigorist we did both the fridges and the AC.

i looked at what he was doing all the time, he was very meticulous and took his time which he told me was important to measure accurately the refrigerant filling. 

Having the right equipment is one thing having the knowledge how To do it seems not that simple.

Do you have DIY guide?

Regards 

Denis 
ex Meltem #32


Re: Galley refrigerator not cooling

Gerhard Mueller
 

I have had the same problem after a long hot weather period. My fridge has 2 compartments, one for freeze goods (-18 °C) and one normal goods (0-5 °C) but one compressor for both.
The normal cooling compartment becomes too warm (about +20°C) and the compressor was getting hot. The freeze compartment was still at -15°C. All this is a sign of too less cooling liquid (R134a).
So I ordered a refrigeration service who refilled a little bit R134a liquid and it worked again as it should.
You can do it yourself if you have the correct equipment and a bottle of R134a or other refrigerant your fridge has.
If however your cooling system might have a leak and all refrigerant is gone first the leak must repaired. There are chemicals available to detect leaks.
Then before refilling the cooling system it must be evacuated with a vaccum pump. A service kit together with a vacuum pump is not very expensive:
https://www.amazon.com/AUTOGEN-Portable-Refrigeration-Manifold-Conditioning/dp/B07XXP659P/ref=sr_1_16?crid=3D4BZWQ9XEYJ0&dchild=1&keywords=r134a+refrigerant+kit&qid=1598607191&sprefix=R134%2Caps%2C310&sr=8-16
When sailing in areas where is no service man available it is worth to buy such a kit.

--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece


Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

Porter McRoberts
 

Paul. 
We concerns of a plastic manifold...
Or a plastic sea chest with a fire!  
Wow. There are critical concerns with every boat for sure. Or a crack in the Seachest lid!  We have replacements. The boat did not come with one.  After sailing for a while and letting the mind wander I think of all kinds of scenarios. The sea chest lid threads get screwed up....   Extra o rings? We got some but...   One can go on and on. 
You’re line of questioning is a good one. What would Amel say?  

Lets hope we never have an ER fire!  

Porter

Porter McRoberts 
S/V IBIS 
WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206
Www.fouribis.net

On Aug 27, 2020, at 1:27 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:



Last paragraph Porter’s Email: attached is the part.

 

April/May 2018 it broke off completely on AMELIT; this is the replacement part I got from AMEL.

I noticed the new unit “sweating” & oxidizing rather quickly; it almost looked like 2 different metals were used. In July/August 2019, in VANUATU, checking & prepping the boat for the trip to the SOLOMONS, my local mechanic Matthieu & I decided to remove this unit completely and replace with a plastic (PVC???) self built unit which has been doing great with no “sweating” at all.

 

When I asked Thierry (AMEL SAV) this was his reply:

 

QUOTE

 

To answer your question this manifold is custom made by Amel . The welding between brass fitting and copper pipe is  carefully done and there is  no risk of leakage.

 

UNQUOTE

 

I have also been planning to redo everything along the A50/60 concept with individual shut off valves for each downstream line.

 

Best Regards Teun

SV AMELIT  A54  #128

 

I am stuck & bored and have been cruising on my motorcycle (March/April) all over BAJA CALIFORNIA 😊 😊 and since June in USA via magnificient State & National Parks on my way to ANNAPOLIS boatshow 😊

 

AMELIT is in storage on the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA and now watched by fellow AMEL owners Sue & Brian MITCHELL (SV LOLA)

August 27, 2020 16:20:07

 

USA cell: +1 832 477 8842

AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909

 

You can follow AMELIT via this link: https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Porter McRoberts via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2020 12:40
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

 

This is indeed a serious issue. 

We had the initial bronze manifold on IBIS. Looked horrible and so when we ordered our arch from Turkey had a stainless replacement manifold constructed. About 2 years ago I changed the bronze one, with significant corrosion to the stainless replacement. One year after replacement upon inspection in NZ I found a small pit and a leak. It was in NZ that I had the resources to build a new manifold out of plastic. I had reservations about the material (plastic vs metal) but recall from an A55 that I believe the stock manifold is plastic on the A55. Encouraged by the chandlery in Opua I built a plastic one. It took a couple of days, a lot of measuring and 5200. I put in isolation valves. I think it is far better than the original. I’d encourage any others who have the resources of a nearby good plumbing chandlery to think about it. One of the very cool parts of the A55 is the ability to isolate and turn of seawater to specific downstream applications. (Don’t have to turn off the refrigerator to work on the AC pump)

 

I think we’re a lot safer now. I repaired the stainless manifold and keep as a spare, but would be lothe to return to it. 

 

Keep in mind there is another smaller manifold (of which we also keep a spare) starbord of the seachest that distributes to the main engine, and then to the distribution manifold via a (formerly iffy) looking hose. That manifold could also easily fail. Amel has replacements. 

 

Porter

 

 

Porter McRoberts 

S/V IBIS A54-152

WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206



On Aug 27, 2020, at 3:38 AM, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:



Jamie,

 

I built a new one from off-the-shelf bronze fittings and a short piece of reinforced hose in the middle. Two years on and no problems, and it will be much easier to repair next time as it can be taken apart in the middle before pulling the parts out which is much easier than getting the original out.

 

I would also be interested if anyone else has adopted this solution and how long it has lasted.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Jamie Wendell
Sent: 27 August 2020 14:54
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

 

I want to report a serious issue regarding the raw-water manifold that feeds the refrigerator, anchor wash, AC, and watermaker pumps on my A54. As I was servicing the sea chest strainer and cleaning out the clogged hoses, the nipple connection feeding the refrigerator pump broke off from the manifold. It actually appears to have been cracked already and was essentially sucking in some air with the cooling water. You can tell that when you hear a slight gurgling sound at the discharge thru-hull - initially I thought it was a pump problem related to insufficient cooling water through the main system strainer. Luckily I was on board at the time - if not, seawater may have poured into the engine room relying on only the automatic bilge pump to keep the water out. If the water ingress had been more than the bilge pump could discharge, the boat might have sunk (a very scary thought!).

I removed the manifold - no easy task, as it is buried behind the hoses, wires, and the cockpit scupper. The manifold appears to be made of bronze, but there was some external corrosion evident at the joint between the refrigerator connection and the main manifold tubing. It is likely that the corrosion is far worse inside the manifold, and that is hard to see when there is a lot of muck building up in the tubing. Very probably, the other nipples have similar corrosion issues inside.

So, I am now in the process of trying to replace the seawater manifold. I have 2 options: the first is to replace in kind, either custom built in a local fab shop or ordered through Amel; the second is to build one out of bronze fittings, pipe, and hose sections. I am not sure if any local shops can work with bronze, but I am investigating that possibility first. I am certain that Amel had these things built specifically for the A54 and maybe the SM or even the A55 - I am not sure if it is common to all models, but I question whether Amel could still source a replacement. The advantage to an in-kind replacement is that it would be a drop-in and also be smaller and lighter. The advantage to a manifold built from fittings is that I can install shut-off valves for each feed circuit, allowing me to isolate if there is a problem with one of the systems and retain the other systems in operation while I service the failed system. I like that concept the best, as many times I have to work on one of the feeders, while having to shut down everything to do it via the main in-line valve. By the way, that valve also looks suspect to me and I will be replacing it.

So, I am passing on my experience to the group as a reminder to check this manifold on a periodic basis. It is hard to see internal corrosion, but it is clear that even bronze will eventually fail. Phantom is now 13 years old, so maybe I was due for replacement. Has anyone else had this failure, and if so, what was your best solution to replace? Has anyone attempted to source from Amel?

Thanks,
Jamie Wendell
Phantom, A54 #44


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

<IMG-20190520-WA0006.jpg>


Re: Galley refrigerator not cooling

Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
 

Yes, that’s exactly what happened to me in Le Marin and I fell for it

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Ken Powers SV Aquarius
Sent: 28 August 2020 07:29
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Galley refrigerator not cooling

 

You need to be very careful when cleaning your fridge.  If you get the ice off the plate with something that could puncture the gas lines within the plate, this is not being very careful.  One of my fridges was not working, and actually found a honest refrigeration guy in Tahiti.  He said, yeah I could change some parts, but I don't think that's the problem.  The quick connect links (that only cost a few dollars) usually go bad, so let's change them and fill up back up and run it.  It worked!  Paid for an hour of time, little bit of gas, and two quick connect gaskets...  Still working 2.5 years later....  All for less than $100 dollar bill.  

Now, if you were in Le Marin. there's a 6' 2" French guy that will tell you you need a new refrigerator and installation which cost only $3500.

Cheers,

Ken
Aquarius SM2K #262
Still in Thailand 


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


Re: Galley refrigerator not cooling

Ken Powers SV Aquarius
 

You need to be very careful when cleaning your fridge.  If you get the ice off the plate with something that could puncture the gas lines within the plate, this is not being very careful.  One of my fridges was not working, and actually found a honest refrigeration guy in Tahiti.  He said, yeah I could change some parts, but I don't think that's the problem.  The quick connect links (that only cost a few dollars) usually go bad, so let's change them and fill up back up and run it.  It worked!  Paid for an hour of time, little bit of gas, and two quick connect gaskets...  Still working 2.5 years later....  All for less than $100 dollar bill.  

Now, if you were in Le Marin. there's a 6' 2" French guy that will tell you you need a new refrigerator and installation which cost only $3500.

Cheers,

Ken
Aquarius SM2K #262
Still in Thailand 


Re: Running back stays on A54

Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
 

Hello,

It is to be prefered to fix the backstays like David shows on his picture at the cleat or just at the same piont like the gib. 
As we already got a backstay we are staticaly better up when the backstay attaches as far latteral as possible. 
The backstay is supposed to compensate latteral forces of the staysail. 

Oliver from Vela Nautica 
A54#39 
Martinique 

On Wed, Aug 26, 2020, 17:10 Sv Garulfo <svgarulfo@...> wrote:
On Garulfo, we have a variation of Arno’s solution with a knot instead of the hook and a small block to lead the tie (black and white in the pic) back to a cleat near the cockpit.



Thomas
GARULFO 
A54-122
Raiatea, French Polynesia 

On Wed, 26 Aug 2020 at 09:51, Laurens Vos <laurensrineke@...> wrote:

Hi Arno,

Thanks for sharing your solution regarding the backstays.
Will try it out. But even with this solution one need to still go out the cockpit to unhook the hanging hook. 

Bill’s solution could be also working well but I’m afraid there will be too much stretch to give the mast a good support. 


Regards 
Laurens Vos 
Fun@Sea A54-92


Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

Teun BAAS
 

Last paragraph Porter’s Email: attached is the part.

 

April/May 2018 it broke off completely on AMELIT; this is the replacement part I got from AMEL.

I noticed the new unit “sweating” & oxidizing rather quickly; it almost looked like 2 different metals were used. In July/August 2019, in VANUATU, checking & prepping the boat for the trip to the SOLOMONS, my local mechanic Matthieu & I decided to remove this unit completely and replace with a plastic (PVC???) self built unit which has been doing great with no “sweating” at all.

 

When I asked Thierry (AMEL SAV) this was his reply:

 

QUOTE

 

To answer your question this manifold is custom made by Amel . The welding between brass fitting and copper pipe is  carefully done and there is  no risk of leakage.

 

UNQUOTE

 

I have also been planning to redo everything along the A50/60 concept with individual shut off valves for each downstream line.

 

Best Regards Teun

SV AMELIT  A54  #128

 

I am stuck & bored and have been cruising on my motorcycle (March/April) all over BAJA CALIFORNIA 😊 😊 and since June in USA via magnificient State & National Parks on my way to ANNAPOLIS boatshow 😊

 

AMELIT is in storage on the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA and now watched by fellow AMEL owners Sue & Brian MITCHELL (SV LOLA)

August 27, 2020 16:20:07

 

USA cell: +1 832 477 8842

AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909

 

You can follow AMELIT via this link: https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Porter McRoberts via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2020 12:40
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

 

This is indeed a serious issue. 

We had the initial bronze manifold on IBIS. Looked horrible and so when we ordered our arch from Turkey had a stainless replacement manifold constructed. About 2 years ago I changed the bronze one, with significant corrosion to the stainless replacement. One year after replacement upon inspection in NZ I found a small pit and a leak. It was in NZ that I had the resources to build a new manifold out of plastic. I had reservations about the material (plastic vs metal) but recall from an A55 that I believe the stock manifold is plastic on the A55. Encouraged by the chandlery in Opua I built a plastic one. It took a couple of days, a lot of measuring and 5200. I put in isolation valves. I think it is far better than the original. I’d encourage any others who have the resources of a nearby good plumbing chandlery to think about it. One of the very cool parts of the A55 is the ability to isolate and turn of seawater to specific downstream applications. (Don’t have to turn off the refrigerator to work on the AC pump)

 

I think we’re a lot safer now. I repaired the stainless manifold and keep as a spare, but would be lothe to return to it. 

 

Keep in mind there is another smaller manifold (of which we also keep a spare) starbord of the seachest that distributes to the main engine, and then to the distribution manifold via a (formerly iffy) looking hose. That manifold could also easily fail. Amel has replacements. 

 

Porter

 

 

Porter McRoberts 

S/V IBIS A54-152

WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206



On Aug 27, 2020, at 3:38 AM, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:



Jamie,

 

I built a new one from off-the-shelf bronze fittings and a short piece of reinforced hose in the middle. Two years on and no problems, and it will be much easier to repair next time as it can be taken apart in the middle before pulling the parts out which is much easier than getting the original out.

 

I would also be interested if anyone else has adopted this solution and how long it has lasted.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Jamie Wendell
Sent: 27 August 2020 14:54
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

 

I want to report a serious issue regarding the raw-water manifold that feeds the refrigerator, anchor wash, AC, and watermaker pumps on my A54. As I was servicing the sea chest strainer and cleaning out the clogged hoses, the nipple connection feeding the refrigerator pump broke off from the manifold. It actually appears to have been cracked already and was essentially sucking in some air with the cooling water. You can tell that when you hear a slight gurgling sound at the discharge thru-hull - initially I thought it was a pump problem related to insufficient cooling water through the main system strainer. Luckily I was on board at the time - if not, seawater may have poured into the engine room relying on only the automatic bilge pump to keep the water out. If the water ingress had been more than the bilge pump could discharge, the boat might have sunk (a very scary thought!).

I removed the manifold - no easy task, as it is buried behind the hoses, wires, and the cockpit scupper. The manifold appears to be made of bronze, but there was some external corrosion evident at the joint between the refrigerator connection and the main manifold tubing. It is likely that the corrosion is far worse inside the manifold, and that is hard to see when there is a lot of muck building up in the tubing. Very probably, the other nipples have similar corrosion issues inside.

So, I am now in the process of trying to replace the seawater manifold. I have 2 options: the first is to replace in kind, either custom built in a local fab shop or ordered through Amel; the second is to build one out of bronze fittings, pipe, and hose sections. I am not sure if any local shops can work with bronze, but I am investigating that possibility first. I am certain that Amel had these things built specifically for the A54 and maybe the SM or even the A55 - I am not sure if it is common to all models, but I question whether Amel could still source a replacement. The advantage to an in-kind replacement is that it would be a drop-in and also be smaller and lighter. The advantage to a manifold built from fittings is that I can install shut-off valves for each feed circuit, allowing me to isolate if there is a problem with one of the systems and retain the other systems in operation while I service the failed system. I like that concept the best, as many times I have to work on one of the feeders, while having to shut down everything to do it via the main in-line valve. By the way, that valve also looks suspect to me and I will be replacing it.

So, I am passing on my experience to the group as a reminder to check this manifold on a periodic basis. It is hard to see internal corrosion, but it is clear that even bronze will eventually fail. Phantom is now 13 years old, so maybe I was due for replacement. Has anyone else had this failure, and if so, what was your best solution to replace? Has anyone attempted to source from Amel?

Thanks,
Jamie Wendell
Phantom, A54 #44


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


PLEASE CONFIRM FINAL Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.

eric freedman
 

Hi,

I have requests for the exhaust sensors from the following people :

Mark Pitt                           1 piece

Mohammad Shirloo          3 pieces          

Jim Anderson                   1 piece       I need your mailing address

Bob Rossi                         1 piece       I need your mailing address

Vladimir Sonsev               1 piece

 

If there is anyone else who wishes this switch please let me know—I will order on Tuesday.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 


Re: Mainsail outhaul on 54

Stefan Schaufert
 

Sorry Nick,

I understood your question wrong.
I thought you want to do it without the outhaul motor - so by hand.

Best regards
Stefan
A 54 #119 Lady Charlyette, Aruba


Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

Craig Briggs
 

In an engine room fire the plastic manifold would probably hold up as well as the two large diameter plastic pipes draining the cockpit that have no seacocks. Maybe better as the manifold is full of water.
As long as the fire doesn't burn your insurance agent's business card with his telephone number, you're likely ok.
Cheers


Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
 

This makes me wonder how plastic in such a critical place would hold up to an engine room fire?

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Porter McRoberts via groups.io
Sent: 27 August 2020 21:40
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

 

This is indeed a serious issue. 

We had the initial bronze manifold on IBIS. Looked horrible and so when we ordered our arch from Turkey had a stainless replacement manifold constructed. About 2 years ago I changed the bronze one, with significant corrosion to the stainless replacement. One year after replacement upon inspection in NZ I found a small pit and a leak. It was in NZ that I had the resources to build a new manifold out of plastic. I had reservations about the material (plastic vs metal) but recall from an A55 that I believe the stock manifold is plastic on the A55. Encouraged by the chandlery in Opua I built a plastic one. It took a couple of days, a lot of measuring and 5200. I put in isolation valves. I think it is far better than the original. I’d encourage any others who have the resources of a nearby good plumbing chandlery to think about it. One of the very cool parts of the A55 is the ability to isolate and turn of seawater to specific downstream applications. (Don’t have to turn off the refrigerator to work on the AC pump)

 

I think we’re a lot safer now. I repaired the stainless manifold and keep as a spare, but would be lothe to return to it. 

 

Keep in mind there is another smaller manifold (of which we also keep a spare) starbord of the seachest that distributes to the main engine, and then to the distribution manifold via a (formerly iffy) looking hose. That manifold could also easily fail. Amel has replacements. 

 

Porter

 

 

Porter McRoberts 

S/V IBIS A54-152

WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206



On Aug 27, 2020, at 3:38 AM, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:



Jamie,

 

I built a new one from off-the-shelf bronze fittings and a short piece of reinforced hose in the middle. Two years on and no problems, and it will be much easier to repair next time as it can be taken apart in the middle before pulling the parts out which is much easier than getting the original out.

 

I would also be interested if anyone else has adopted this solution and how long it has lasted.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Jamie Wendell
Sent: 27 August 2020 14:54
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

 

I want to report a serious issue regarding the raw-water manifold that feeds the refrigerator, anchor wash, AC, and watermaker pumps on my A54. As I was servicing the sea chest strainer and cleaning out the clogged hoses, the nipple connection feeding the refrigerator pump broke off from the manifold. It actually appears to have been cracked already and was essentially sucking in some air with the cooling water. You can tell that when you hear a slight gurgling sound at the discharge thru-hull - initially I thought it was a pump problem related to insufficient cooling water through the main system strainer. Luckily I was on board at the time - if not, seawater may have poured into the engine room relying on only the automatic bilge pump to keep the water out. If the water ingress had been more than the bilge pump could discharge, the boat might have sunk (a very scary thought!).

I removed the manifold - no easy task, as it is buried behind the hoses, wires, and the cockpit scupper. The manifold appears to be made of bronze, but there was some external corrosion evident at the joint between the refrigerator connection and the main manifold tubing. It is likely that the corrosion is far worse inside the manifold, and that is hard to see when there is a lot of muck building up in the tubing. Very probably, the other nipples have similar corrosion issues inside.

So, I am now in the process of trying to replace the seawater manifold. I have 2 options: the first is to replace in kind, either custom built in a local fab shop or ordered through Amel; the second is to build one out of bronze fittings, pipe, and hose sections. I am not sure if any local shops can work with bronze, but I am investigating that possibility first. I am certain that Amel had these things built specifically for the A54 and maybe the SM or even the A55 - I am not sure if it is common to all models, but I question whether Amel could still source a replacement. The advantage to an in-kind replacement is that it would be a drop-in and also be smaller and lighter. The advantage to a manifold built from fittings is that I can install shut-off valves for each feed circuit, allowing me to isolate if there is a problem with one of the systems and retain the other systems in operation while I service the failed system. I like that concept the best, as many times I have to work on one of the feeders, while having to shut down everything to do it via the main in-line valve. By the way, that valve also looks suspect to me and I will be replacing it.

So, I am passing on my experience to the group as a reminder to check this manifold on a periodic basis. It is hard to see internal corrosion, but it is clear that even bronze will eventually fail. Phantom is now 13 years old, so maybe I was due for replacement. Has anyone else had this failure, and if so, what was your best solution to replace? Has anyone attempted to source from Amel?

Thanks,
Jamie Wendell
Phantom, A54 #44


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


Re: Galley refrigerator not cooling

Slavko Despotovic
 

Yes, we have recharged the system and all works good. If that happens again we will take it out and will be checked in the service shop. Regarding thermostat as all have been working, compressor and ventilator, so it was sending a signal  to both parts of the system. Previous owner said that refrigerator was never refilled and is the service confirmed that was never recharged. So, we will see. 

Thank you for the answer.


Re: Galley refrigerator not cooling

Thomas Kleman
 

If the compressor runs and it doesn't cool it's unlikely to be the thermostat. You may have a leak and have lost your refrigerant. Finding a pin hole in the system is very difficult (ask me how I know). You might try recharging the system with refrigerant and watching to see if a leak emerges. While you are taking the system apart, changing the manual thermostat dial to a digital readout can also be super helpful in diagnosing these types of problems as you can see when it cycles and what the exact temp is inside. My bet is the evaporator plate has a small leak.

Tom and Kirstin
SV L'ORIENT
SM2K 422
Hanalei Bay, Kauia


Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

Porter McRoberts
 

This is indeed a serious issue. 
We had the initial bronze manifold on IBIS. Looked horrible and so when we ordered our arch from Turkey had a stainless replacement manifold constructed. About 2 years ago I changed the bronze one, with significant corrosion to the stainless replacement. One year after replacement upon inspection in NZ I found a small pit and a leak. It was in NZ that I had the resources to build a new manifold out of plastic. I had reservations about the material (plastic vs metal) but recall from an A55 that I believe the stock manifold is plastic on the A55. Encouraged by the chandlery in Opua I built a plastic one. It took a couple of days, a lot of measuring and 5200. I put in isolation valves. I think it is far better than the original. I’d encourage any others who have the resources of a nearby good plumbing chandlery to think about it. One of the very cool parts of the A55 is the ability to isolate and turn of seawater to specific downstream applications. (Don’t have to turn off the refrigerator to work on the AC pump)

I think we’re a lot safer now. I repaired the stainless manifold and keep as a spare, but would be lothe to return to it. 

Keep in mind there is another smaller manifold (of which we also keep a spare) starbord of the seachest that distributes to the main engine, and then to the distribution manifold via a (formerly iffy) looking hose. That manifold could also easily fail. Amel has replacements. 

Porter


Porter McRoberts 
S/V IBIS A54-152
WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206
Www.fouribis.net

On Aug 27, 2020, at 3:38 AM, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:



Jamie,

 

I built a new one from off-the-shelf bronze fittings and a short piece of reinforced hose in the middle. Two years on and no problems, and it will be much easier to repair next time as it can be taken apart in the middle before pulling the parts out which is much easier than getting the original out.

 

I would also be interested if anyone else has adopted this solution and how long it has lasted.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Jamie Wendell
Sent: 27 August 2020 14:54
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

 

I want to report a serious issue regarding the raw-water manifold that feeds the refrigerator, anchor wash, AC, and watermaker pumps on my A54. As I was servicing the sea chest strainer and cleaning out the clogged hoses, the nipple connection feeding the refrigerator pump broke off from the manifold. It actually appears to have been cracked already and was essentially sucking in some air with the cooling water. You can tell that when you hear a slight gurgling sound at the discharge thru-hull - initially I thought it was a pump problem related to insufficient cooling water through the main system strainer. Luckily I was on board at the time - if not, seawater may have poured into the engine room relying on only the automatic bilge pump to keep the water out. If the water ingress had been more than the bilge pump could discharge, the boat might have sunk (a very scary thought!).

I removed the manifold - no easy task, as it is buried behind the hoses, wires, and the cockpit scupper. The manifold appears to be made of bronze, but there was some external corrosion evident at the joint between the refrigerator connection and the main manifold tubing. It is likely that the corrosion is far worse inside the manifold, and that is hard to see when there is a lot of muck building up in the tubing. Very probably, the other nipples have similar corrosion issues inside.

So, I am now in the process of trying to replace the seawater manifold. I have 2 options: the first is to replace in kind, either custom built in a local fab shop or ordered through Amel; the second is to build one out of bronze fittings, pipe, and hose sections. I am not sure if any local shops can work with bronze, but I am investigating that possibility first. I am certain that Amel had these things built specifically for the A54 and maybe the SM or even the A55 - I am not sure if it is common to all models, but I question whether Amel could still source a replacement. The advantage to an in-kind replacement is that it would be a drop-in and also be smaller and lighter. The advantage to a manifold built from fittings is that I can install shut-off valves for each feed circuit, allowing me to isolate if there is a problem with one of the systems and retain the other systems in operation while I service the failed system. I like that concept the best, as many times I have to work on one of the feeders, while having to shut down everything to do it via the main in-line valve. By the way, that valve also looks suspect to me and I will be replacing it.

So, I am passing on my experience to the group as a reminder to check this manifold on a periodic basis. It is hard to see internal corrosion, but it is clear that even bronze will eventually fail. Phantom is now 13 years old, so maybe I was due for replacement. Has anyone else had this failure, and if so, what was your best solution to replace? Has anyone attempted to source from Amel?

Thanks,
Jamie Wendell
Phantom, A54 #44


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


Re: New rub rail inserts

amelforme
 

Joel would never say something so untrue. A new insert might make the boat sell quicker and for a bit more money, but not 15%.
 Craig, I have told you a billion times not to exaggerate...

JOEL F. POTTER
CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST LLC
THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
Office 954-462-5869 

On Aug 27, 2020, at 2:47 PM, Craig Briggs via groups.io <sangaris@...> wrote:

Just to add minor notes to Pat McAneny's post, this new insert perfectly matches my old SN insert (identical to the SM insert)  and absolutely looks far better in off-white. Being made of EPDM it will stand up to UV and will not chalk up like the originals. They're made by Techno Rubber Industries in Miami and I visited their plant for an "eyes on" - they're a family business that's the "real deal".  You can Google them for a look-see.

Installation is easily accomplished with a spray bottle of water and dish detergent plus a blunt "pusher". I used a hand held 1/4" socket driver (without a socket) as pusher. Here's a pic - the tool is lying on the deck, but anything similar will work - it does take some force to work the inside edge of the insert down against the outside of the cap rail.

It will take you 5 minutes to remove the old insert - just pry up one end and pull - and about an hour per side to install the new.  Amel carved away the bottom section of the originals in the areas of the chainplates and you'll need to copy that on this new one. 

Before installing the new insert,  I'd recommend taking the time to wash out the empty channel as it really accumulates dirt and then clean and wax the hull and rub rail, patching any gelcoat nicks you may have.

I think it will be a super improvement and Joel says to add 15% to your asking price when you sell. (Well, maybe not an exact quote, but, hey!)

Cheers, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

Craig Briggs
 

Coincidentally, SAIL Magazine just posted an article on this exact subject with Tom Cunliffe's solution that I've copied below:

manifoldTip02
 

When I bought my boat it had 18 through-hull fittings. To reduce the number of holes in the hull (I ultimately cut them by half), I first re-plumbed the drain hoses from my sinks, scuppers, bilge pumps and shower sump so that they could share many fewer outlets. I then removed the remaining unused fittings, feathered back the holes inside and out with an angle grinder, and filled them by layering on a succession of round fiberglass patches of increasing diameter.

I also reduced the number of intake seacocks to just two—one for the engine’s raw-water intake and one that I plumbed to a manifold that services every other appliance that uses seawater. On my boat this includes the galley sink foot pump, the toilet intake, the watermaker, the deck wash-down pump and a short bilge sump wash-down hose. I made my manifold from off-the-shelf PVC tubes and valves and installed a sea strainer between the seacock and the manifold. It has functioned perfectly for six years now.

Note that if you install a simple manifold, as opposed to a sea chest, to service multiple systems, the through-hull must be large enough to meet the likely maximum demand. A sea chest, which has a tank (capacity is typically a gallon or more), can more easily accommodate surge loads when more than one system is drawing water at the same time. —Tom Cunliffe

--
SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: New rub rail inserts

Craig Briggs
 

Just to add minor notes to Pat McAneny's post, this new insert perfectly matches my old SN insert (identical to the SM insert)  and absolutely looks far better in off-white. Being made of EPDM it will stand up to UV and will not chalk up like the originals. They're made by Techno Rubber Industries in Miami and I visited their plant for an "eyes on" - they're a family business that's the "real deal".  You can Google them for a look-see.

Installation is easily accomplished with a spray bottle of water and dish detergent plus a blunt "pusher". I used a hand held 1/4" socket driver (without a socket) as pusher. Here's a pic - the tool is lying on the deck, but anything similar will work - it does take some force to work the inside edge of the insert down against the outside of the cap rail.

It will take you 5 minutes to remove the old insert - just pry up one end and pull - and about an hour per side to install the new.  Amel carved away the bottom section of the originals in the areas of the chainplates and you'll need to copy that on this new one. 

Before installing the new insert,  I'd recommend taking the time to wash out the empty channel as it really accumulates dirt and then clean and wax the hull and rub rail, patching any gelcoat nicks you may have.

I think it will be a super improvement and Joel says to add 15% to your asking price when you sell. (Well, maybe not an exact quote, but, hey!)

Cheers, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

Jamie Wendell
 

Just an update. The original manifold on my A54 was actually copper and not bronze as I had originally thought. That explains the corrosion, since copper is lower on the galvanic scale than bronze, which is the more noble.

I am having a fabricator make up a new heavy-gauge 316 SS assembly with individual shut-off valves and a clean-out connection at the end to allow snaking in the future. Stainless may not be as good as bronze in an anaerobic environment, but I will probably be long gone before it fails I am sure. I thought about the fitting approach which would have allowed disassembly, but the original concept manifold is not that difficult to remove - if I ever have to again. I understand that stainless will likely be a bit heavier than copper, but I can deal with that.

I think others have provided good photos of the manifold, but I will be happy to send out pictures of my final installation if there is any interest in my approach.
Thanks,
Jamie
Phantom, A54 #44


Re: Mainsail outhaul on 54

Stefan Schaufert
 

Hi Nick,

yes we did this for some weeks. This is my emergency scenario if the outhaul doesn't work.
It works well (stronger then the electric motor), but it is not that comfortable (extra sheet, occupied winsch ...).
I recommend to disconnect the outhaul when you use the sheet.

Best regards
Stefan
A 54 #119 Lady Charlyette, Aruba


Re: Mainsail outhaul on 54

Arno Luijten
 

Hi,

I'm not sure how that would work. You would need to put the purchase on both sides of the outhaul to keep keep the line speed the same on both sides of he outhaul. That would give you even more problems putting enough tension on the line to prevent it from slipping the line tender. Apart from not having enough space on the boom to do this I think.

Regards,

Arno Luijten,
SV Luna,
A54-121