main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

Patrick McAneny

#40197

Mark, Now that I know I can use it on the fresh water side, is this how I would proceed. I would drain all the antifreeze and refill with a 4 to 1 ratio mixture of B/B run the engine until it warms up , shut it down and let it sit for maybe three hours, then flush with water a couple of times. Does that sound about right.

Thanks,

Pat

SM Shenanigans

Show quoted text

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Thu, Jun 14, 2018 7:16 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

Hi Pat,

Yes. Use it on both sides. I have use BB on multiple surfaces without issue. However, keep it away from fiberglass – be sure not to spill any.

When done, I make up a baking soda solution and dunk the exchanger in it to neutralize any acid. Probably not necessary but I figure it couldn’t hurt.

With best regards,

Mark

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

www.creampuff.us ;

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 7:23 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

Mark, Its not bad ,all the holes are clear, but thought it might clean out stuff from between the tubes. So 4 hrs. and then flush with water to rid the acid. Do you know if it can be used on the fresh water side to clean out rust and small deposits.

Thanks,

Pat

SM#123

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wed, Jun 13, 2018 8:58 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

Hi Pat,

BB will take at least four hours on a mild job. If your heat exchanger is blocked and has a lot of growth, I would suggest taking it to a radiator shop. They will do it for the price of a gal of BB. It should be clean throughout and shiny before you put it back on.

With best regards,

Mark

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

www.creampuff.us

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2018 8:32 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

I have never used anything like Barnacle Buster and have a question. I took out my heat exchanger and I understand that I can soak it to clean it , but how long? Another question is that the interior surfaces of the fresh water side looks pretty bad . Can I run B/B through my fresh water side to clean it out , if not is there something else to clean out the fresh water side.

Thanks,

Pat

SM#123

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

Mark Erdos

#40196

Hi Pat,

Yes. Use it on both sides. I have use BB on multiple surfaces without issue. However, keep it away from fiberglass – be sure not to spill any.

When done, I make up a baking soda solution and dunk the exchanger in it to neutralize any acid. Probably not necessary but I figure it couldn’t hurt.

With best regards,

Mark

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

www.creampuff.us

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 7:23 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

Mark, Its not bad ,all the holes are clear, but thought it might clean out stuff from between the tubes. So 4 hrs. and then flush with water to rid the acid. Do you know if it can be used on the fresh water side to clean out rust and small deposits.

Thanks,

Pat

SM#123

Show quoted text

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Wed, Jun 13, 2018 8:58 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

Hi Pat,

BB will take at least four hours on a mild job. If your heat exchanger is blocked and has a lot of growth, I would suggest taking it to a radiator shop. They will do it for the price of a gal of BB. It should be clean throughout and shiny before you put it back on.

With best regards,

Mark

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

www.creampuff.us

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2018 8:32 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

I have never used anything like Barnacle Buster and have a question. I took out my heat exchanger and I understand that I can soak it to clean it , but how long? Another question is that the interior surfaces of the fresh water side looks pretty bad . Can I run B/B through my fresh water side to clean it out , if not is there something else to clean out the fresh water side.

Thanks,

Pat

SM#123

Re: Amel SM 2000 stability data

nz free

#40195

Hello Alin

Congratulations on purchasing Wanderer. She is a wonderful boat and provided my family and I many years of adventure and security. Some of the great memories of my life have been aboard her.

I am not technically the first owner of the boat. But I am the fist owner of the boat. I had her for 10 years, sailed her From Mystic Connecticut to as far west as Sydney Australia and ended up in New Zealand.

Although I am not happy that she is going to become a day charter boat. She is an ocean thoroughbred she belongs on the high seas. I would be glad to provide you with any help or information that I can.

Where will you be keeping her?

I don't often check this group. You can contact me at vitoc@...

Thanks

Vito Ciaravino

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

Patrick McAneny

#40194

Mark, Its not bad ,all the holes are clear, but thought it might clean out stuff from between the tubes. So 4 hrs. and then flush with water to rid the acid. Do you know if it can be used on the fresh water side to clean out rust and small deposits.

Thanks,

Pat

SM#123

Show quoted text

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Wed, Jun 13, 2018 8:58 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

Hi Pat,

BB will take at least four hours on a mild job. If your heat exchanger is blocked and has a lot of growth, I would suggest taking it to a radiator shop. They will do it for the price of a gal of BB. It should be clean throughout and shiny before you put it back on.

With best regards,

Mark

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

www.creampuff.us

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2018 8:32 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

I have never used anything like Barnacle Buster and have a question. I took out my heat exchanger and I understand that I can soak it to clean it , but how long? Another question is that the interior surfaces of the fresh water side looks pretty bad . Can I run B/B through my fresh water side to clean it out , if not is there something else to clean out the fresh water side.

Thanks,

Pat

SM#123

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

Mark Erdos

#40193

Hi Pat,

BB will take at least four hours on a mild job. If your heat exchanger is blocked and has a lot of growth, I would suggest taking it to a radiator shop. They will do it for the price of a gal of BB. It should be clean throughout and shiny before you put it back on.

With best regards,

Mark

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

www.creampuff.us

Show quoted text

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2018 8:32 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

I have never used anything like Barnacle Buster and have a question. I took out my heat exchanger and I understand that I can soak it to clean it , but how long? Another question is that the interior surfaces of the fresh water side looks pretty bad . Can I run B/B through my fresh water side to clean it out , if not is there something else to clean out the fresh water side.

Thanks,

Pat

SM#123

Barnacle Buster

Patrick McAneny

#40192

I have never used anything like Barnacle Buster and have a question. I took out my heat exchanger and I understand that I can soak it to clean it , but how long? Another question is that the interior surfaces of the fresh water side looks pretty bad . Can I run B/B through my fresh water side to clean it out , if not is there something else to clean out the fresh water side.

Thanks,

Pat

SM#123

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Zincs for 1994 SM (#117)

CW Bill Rouse

#40191

Good eye! Yes, there are blisters on the cast iron ballast, probably caused by the the cast iron ballast being separated from the bonding system with the most likely cause being the bonding strap in the Gray Water Bilge.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

Show quoted text

On Wed, Jun 13, 2018 at 6:34 PM 'hanspeter.baettig@...' hanspeter.baettig@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

hello Bode
your zink anode on the propeller looks good
but whats about the bubbels on your keel/ ballst
looks not good
Hanspeter
Tamango 2
SM16

Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Am 13.06.2018 um 06:39 schrieb steve@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

This is the zinc that was on there. Anyone know what the replacement is?
-Bode

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Zincs for 1994 SM (#117) [1 Attachment]

hanspeter baettig

#40190

hello Bode

your zink anode on the propeller looks good

but whats about the bubbels on your keel/ ballst

looks not good

Hanspeter

Tamango 2

SM16

Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Am 13.06.2018 um 06:39 schrieb steve@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

Show quoted text

This is the zinc that was on there. Anyone know what the replacement is?
-Bode

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Zincs for 1994 SM (#117)

karkauai

#40189

The prop zinc for a MaxProp has very narrow bridges of zinc around the bolts. When they go the rest of the zinc will fall off. I paint those bridges with an enamel paint and they last five times as long. The original zincs on my rudder were 5 inches in diameter, I am now using 7 inch diameter zincs from Camp. My hull potential is better, and they last much longer.

A diver turned me onto Camp zincs when I had the problem with electrolysis of my prop shaft. You may have noticed that the Martyr zincs from West Marine erode unevenly, with big pits in some places and little eroded in others. Apparently this is due to inadequate mixing of the alloy. Camp sinks erode much more evenly.

Kent Robertson

S/V Kristy

SM243

Show quoted text

On Jun 13, 2018, at 2:17 AM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi ASteve,

Looks like you have a 3 blade maxprop...

This link should help you decide what you think you need...and you can probably get it cheaper from somewhere else.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/max-prop--max-prop-zinc-kit--P004_122_001_511

I'm confused by what you mean by the "plate" zinc....are you talking about the rectangular plate on the side of the rudder?..if so that's not a zinc, its the ground plate for the SSB radio.

If your rudder zincs are fine, but the prop zinc isn't you may have a bonding issue...the rudder zincs should be decaying....in fact you shouldn't need the prop zinc if your bonding system is all good.

Cheers

Alan

Elyse SM437 Musket Cove, Fiji

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lifeline Stanchion Removal

Craig Briggs

#40188

James,

If some bolts won't come out and have never been removed before it seems likely there has not been water ingress - they're just being uncooperative and can wait for you to get back to your shop for better tools. If you're concerned, I'd treat them with Captain Tolley's (Amazing) Creeping Crack Cure - great product.

I had the embedded plate of the port side aft-most stanchion get wet after the original GPS antenna cable was removed along with the silicon Amel had sealed it with. After many years the rusting plate swelled up and cracked the toe rail open. A few years ago I cut out the old plate, replaced it and re-glassed the toe rail, which now looks like new. This can also be an issue if you rewire the bow lights.

Others have reported swelling in the SM engine-room hatch cover supports (I think BebeBill was the first to post about it). Don't recall any issues reported about the genoa track rail bolts, which I believe you're working on.

Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris

---In amelyachtowners@..., <lokiyawl2@...> wrote :

Craig,

Thanks for the advice and information on how you dealt with the bolts on your boat that are tapped into the embedded plates, that was very helpful to me!

I will definitely take Joel’s advice on sealing and using new bolts. I have read about the problems that can occur if water gets to the backing plates and I certainly want to avoid that if at all possible. My thoughts are to remove any of the rail bolts that I can get out easily and replace/reseal those as soon as I can. The remainder that are difficult to remove will have to wait until I get Sueño back to my shop in Florida. I am wondering if there are any options to help prevent water ingress on the fasteners that I cannot easily remove?

Best of luck to you and your project.

James Alton

SV Sueño

Maramu #220

Show quoted text

On Jun 12, 2018, at 8:51 PM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

My experience was some bolts were easily removed, others really stubborn. After trying BIG screwdriver with square shaft and a wrench on that to add to torque, the ultimate solution for the ones that got "buggered" was to weld a short hex head bolt onto the flat slotted head of the stanchion bolt and put a socket wrench on that - easy peasy removal.
Do take Joel's advice to heart to be SURE you seal the new/replaced bolts totally. This forum has many reports of the embedded carbon steel backing plates corroding and some bursting open - believe me, it's a BIG fiberglass repair job to cut out the old plates and rebuild the fiberglass and gel coat.
Good luck with it!
Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris.

---In amelyachtowners@..., <lokiyawl2@...> wrote :

Gary,

Thanks for the information. I am curious about what percentage of the bolts you were able to extract from the embedded bar stock? Also what technique for removal of the fasteners seemed to work the best for you?

Best of luck with the rest of your hurricane repairs.

James Alton
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Jun 12, 2018, at 1:54 AM, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

Hi Bill

I echo what Joel and others have said but with a few caveats. I just had about 10 of my stanchions off for repairs following hurricane damage. Most are attached with the threaded-into-embedded-bar stock method but those in the immediate vicinity of the aft "garage" lazarette had washers and nuts on the back side of the vertical face of the toe-rail and the top horizontal face of the toe-rail. This included the three most aft stanchions on the starboard stern area. I didn't have damage on the port side in that area and so I can't speak to that (plus the propane locker is in that area so you'll have to inspect in that area for nuts if that is where your damage is).

I had always assumed that the stanchion that has the outboard rail board on it was welded at the top rail and the block was fabricate in-situ but not so. That stanchion is about 1.5 inches sh ort of going to the top rail and inserts in a hole that is about 75% of the depth of the the wooden block.

Sincerely,

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
currently completing hurricane repairs at Island Marine, Inc, Puerto Del Rey, Puerto Rico

PS I have a son who is a certified welder so I have been taught a lot about quality welding by him. The guys that did my stainless repairs were highly skilled and true professionals. Besides fabricating and installing a 10 ft section of rail and stanchions (done off the boat after tack welding everything on the boat, they weld repaired some broken bales on the underside of the stanchions that retain the jib-sheet-car traveler line. They did this by removing the stanchion base screws, flexing the lifeline about an inch away from the toe-rail, putting protective metal plating between the fibergla ss and the work piece and TIG welding the bale-to-base, upside down, in close quarters while laying on the deck. Amazing work. I can't believe the results of all their work. Perfect in every way.

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Dessalator Duo 160 - AC Motor for High Pressure Pump

Heinz Stutenbaeumer

#40187

Hello

The engine of my water maker Desselator Duo 160 l is defective.

I wrote to the manufacturer and they really want 1350,00 Euro + 750,00 Euro for the transport to Pannama.

I think that's an outrage.

Can someone tell me what I need for an engine, so I can get a similar one. Unfortunately, no type designation can be recognized on my motor.

Thanks in advance

Fair winds

Heinz Stutenbāumer

Quetzal, SM2000,292

Am 06.06.2018 um 07:33 schrieb pstas2003 <no_reply@...>:

Show quoted text

Heinz,

Thank you very much for sharing that information. It is most helpful,

All the best,

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Fort Louis Marina - Saint Martin

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lifeline Stanchion Removal

James Alton

#40186

Craig,

Thanks for the advice and information on how you dealt with the bolts on your boat that are tapped into the embedded plates, that was very helpful to me!

I will definitely take Joel’s advice on sealing and using new bolts. I have read about the problems that can occur if water gets to the backing plates and I certainly want to avoid that if at all possible. My thoughts are to remove any of the rail bolts that I can get out easily and replace/reseal those as soon as I can. The remainder that are difficult to remove will have to wait until I get Sueño back to my shop in Florida. I am wondering if there are any options to help prevent water ingress on the fasteners that I cannot easily remove?

Best of luck to you and your project.

James Alton

SV Sueño

Maramu #220

Show quoted text

On Jun 12, 2018, at 8:51 PM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

My experience was some bolts were easily removed, others really stubborn. After trying BIG screwdriver with square shaft and a wrench on that to add to torque, the ultimate solution for the ones that got "buggered" was to weld a short hex head bolt onto the flat slotted head of the stanchion bolt and put a socket wrench on that - easy peasy removal.
Do take Joel's advice to heart to be SURE you seal the new/replaced bolts totally. This forum has many reports of the embedded carbon steel backing plates corroding and some bursting open - believe me, it's a BIG fiberglass repair job to cut out the old plates and rebuild the fiberglass and gel coat.
Good luck with it!
Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris.

---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Gary,

Thanks for the information. I am curious about what percentage of the bolts you were able to extract from the embedded bar stock? Also what technique for removal of the fasteners seemed to work the best for you?

Best of luck with the rest of your hurricane repairs.

James Alton
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Jun 12, 2018, at 1:54 AM, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

Hi Bill

I echo what Joel and others have said but with a few caveats. I just had about 10 of my stanchions off for repairs following hurricane damage. Most are attached with the threaded-into-embedded-bar stock method but those in the immediate vicinity of the aft "garage" lazarette had washers and nuts on the back side of the vertical face of the toe-rail and the top horizontal face of the toe-rail. This included the three most aft stanchions on the starboard stern area. I didn't have damage on the port side in that area and so I can't speak to that (plus the propane locker is in that area so you'll have to inspect in that area for nuts if that is where your damage is).

I had always assumed that the stanchion that has the outboard rail board on it was welded at the top rail and the block was fabricate in-situ but not so. That stanchion is about 1.5 inches sh ort of going to the top rail and inserts in a hole that is about 75% of the depth of the the wooden block.

Sincerely,

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
currently completing hurricane repairs at Island Marine, Inc, Puerto Del Rey, Puerto Rico

PS I have a son who is a certified welder so I have been taught a lot about quality welding by him. The guys that did my stainless repairs were highly skilled and true professionals. Besides fabricating and installing a 10 ft section of rail and stanchions (done off the boat after tack welding everything on the boat, they weld repaired some broken bales on the underside of the stanchions that retain the jib-sheet-car traveler line. They did this by removing the stanchion base screws, flexing the lifeline about an inch away from the toe-rail, putting protective metal plating between the fibergla ss and the work piece and TIG welding the bale-to-base, upside down, in close quarters while laying on the deck. Amazing work. I can't believe the results of all their work. Perfect in every way.

Re: Zincs for 1994 SM (#117)

Alan Leslie

#40185

Hi ASteve,

Looks like you have a 3 blade maxprop...

This link should help you decide what you think you need...and you can probably get it cheaper from somewhere else.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/max-prop--max-prop-zinc-kit--P004_122_001_511

I'm confused by what you mean by the "plate" zinc....are you talking about the rectangular plate on the side of the rudder?..if so that's not a zinc, its the ground plate for the SSB radio.

If your rudder zincs are fine, but the prop zinc isn't you may have a bonding issue...the rudder zincs should be decaying....in fact you shouldn't need the prop zinc if your bonding system is all good.

Cheers

Alan

Elyse SM437 Musket Cove, Fiji

Re: Zincs for 1994 SM (#117)

Steven Bode - SV Intention 1994-SM#117

#40184

This is the zinc that was on there. Anyone know what the replacement is?

-Bode

Zincs for 1994 SM (#117)

Steven Bode - SV Intention 1994-SM#117

#40183

Who knows the specs of the zincs for the 1994 SM? Intention has no prop or plate zinc left. Curiously, the rudder zinc looks fine. I'm leaving to go to sea for two days and need to procure these in Palermo, Italy and don't know where to look up which ones to buy. Happy to hire a diver to install them, but need the zincs in hand I believe.

Steve Bode

Sailing Vessel Intention

Amel Super Maramu 1994 #117

svIntention.com

Facebook.com/svIntention

+1 415-710-6659

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lifeline Stanchion Removal

Craig Briggs

#40182

My experience was some bolts were easily removed, others really stubborn. After trying BIG screwdriver with square shaft and a wrench on that to add to torque, the ultimate solution for the ones that got "buggered" was to weld a short hex head bolt onto the flat slotted head of the stanchion bolt and put a socket wrench on that - easy peasy removal.

Do take Joel's advice to heart to be SURE you seal the new/replaced bolts totally. This forum has many reports of the embedded carbon steel backing plates corroding and some bursting open - believe me, it's a BIG fiberglass repair job to cut out the old plates and rebuild the fiberglass and gel coat.

Good luck with it!

Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris.

---In amelyachtowners@..., <lokiyawl2@...> wrote :

Gary,

Thanks for the information. I am curious about what percentage of the bolts you were able to extract from the embedded bar stock? Also what technique for removal of the fasteners seemed to work the best for you?

Best of luck with the rest of your hurricane repairs.

James Alton

SV Sueño

Maramu #220

Show quoted text

On Jun 12, 2018, at 1:54 AM, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

Hi Bill

I echo what Joel and others have said but with a few caveats. I just had about 10 of my stanchions off for repairs following hurricane damage. Most are attached with the threaded-into-embedded-bar stock method but those in the immediate vicinity of the aft "garage" lazarette had washers and nuts on the back side of the vertical face of the toe-rail and the top horizontal face of the toe-rail. This included the three most aft stanchions on the starboard stern area. I didn't have damage on the port side in that area and so I can't speak to that (plus the propane locker is in that area so you'll have to inspect in that area for nuts if that is where your damage is).

I had always assumed that the stanchion that has the outboard rail board on it was welded at the top rail and the block was fabricate in-situ but not so. That stanchion is about 1.5 inches sh ort of going to the top rail and inserts in a hole that is about 75% of the depth of the the wooden block.

Sincerely,

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
currently completing hurricane repairs at Island Marine, Inc, Puerto Del Rey, Puerto Rico

PS I have a son who is a certified welder so I have been taught a lot about quality welding by him. The guys that did my stainless repairs were highly skilled and true professionals. Besides fabricating and installing a 10 ft section of rail and stanchions (done off the boat after tack welding everything on the boat, they weld repaired some broken bales on the underside of the stanchions that retain the jib-sheet-car traveler line. They did this by removing the stanchion base screws, flexing the lifeline about an inch away from the toe-rail, putting protective metal plating between the fibergla ss and the work piece and TIG welding the bale-to-base, upside down, in close quarters while laying on the deck. Amazing work. I can't believe the results of all their work. Perfect in every way.

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lifeline Stanchion Removal

Mike Ondra

#40181

Trying again

Show quoted text

From: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2018 5:39 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lifeline Stanchion Removal [1 Attachment]

[Attachment(s) from Mike Ondra included below]

Attached is a sketch that came with Aletes showing the toe rail cross section and bolt-backplate configuration.

Mike Ondra

Aletes SM#240

Rock Hall, MD

From: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2018 8:38 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lifeline Stanchion Removal

Gary,

Thanks for the information. I am curious about what percentage of the bolts you were able to extract from the embedded bar stock? Also what technique for removal of the fasteners seemed to work the best for you?

Best of luck with the rest of your hurricane repairs.

James Alton

SV Sueño

Maramu #220

On Jun 12, 2018, at 1:54 AM, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

Hi Bill

I echo what Joel and others have said but with a few caveats. I just had about 10 of my stanchions off for repairs following hurricane damage. Most are attached with the threaded-into-embedded-bar stock method but those in the immediate vicinity of the aft "garage" lazarette had washers and nuts on the back side of the vertical face of the toe-rail and the top horizontal face of the toe-rail. This included the three most aft stanchions on the starboard stern area. I didn't have damage on the port side in that area and so I can't speak to that (plus the propane locker is in that area so you'll have to inspect in that area for nuts if that is where your damage is).

I had always assumed that the stanchion that has the outboard rail board on it was welded at the top rail and the block was fabricate in-situ but not so. That stanchion is about 1.5 inches sh ort of going to the top rail and inserts in a hole that is about 75% of the depth of the the wooden block.

Sincerely,

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
currently completing hurricane repairs at Island Marine, Inc, Puerto Del Rey, Puerto Rico

PS I have a son who is a certified welder so I have been taught a lot about quality welding by him. The guys that did my stainless repairs were highly skilled and true professionals. Besides fabricating and installing a 10 ft section of rail and stanchions (done off the boat after tack welding everything on the boat, they weld repaired some broken bales on the underside of the stanchions that retain the jib-sheet-car traveler line. They did this by removing the stanchion base screws, flexing the lifeline about an inch away from the toe-rail, putting protective metal plating between the fibergla ss and the work piece and TIG welding the bale-to-base, upside down, in close quarters while laying on the deck. Amazing work. I can't believe the results of all their work. Perfect in every way.

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lifeline Stanchion Removal

Mike Ondra

#40180

Attached is a sketch that came with Aletes showing the toe rail cross section and bolt-backplate configuration.

Mike Ondra

Aletes SM#240

Rock Hall, MD

Show quoted text

From: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2018 8:38 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lifeline Stanchion Removal

Gary,

Thanks for the information. I am curious about what percentage of the bolts you were able to extract from the embedded bar stock? Also what technique for removal of the fasteners seemed to work the best for you?

Best of luck with the rest of your hurricane repairs.

James Alton

SV Sueño

Maramu #220

On Jun 12, 2018, at 1:54 AM, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

Hi Bill

I echo what Joel and others have said but with a few caveats. I just had about 10 of my stanchions off for repairs following hurricane damage. Most are attached with the threaded-into-embedded-bar stock method but those in the immediate vicinity of the aft "garage" lazarette had washers and nuts on the back side of the vertical face of the toe-rail and the top horizontal face of the toe-rail. This included the three most aft stanchions on the starboard stern area. I didn't have damage on the port side in that area and so I can't speak to that (plus the propane locker is in that area so you'll have to inspect in that area for nuts if that is where your damage is).

I had always assumed that the stanchion that has the outboard rail board on it was welded at the top rail and the block was fabricate in-situ but not so. That stanchion is about 1.5 inches sh ort of going to the top rail and inserts in a hole that is about 75% of the depth of the the wooden block.

Sincerely,

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
currently completing hurricane repairs at Island Marine, Inc, Puerto Del Rey, Puerto Rico

PS I have a son who is a certified welder so I have been taught a lot about quality welding by him. The guys that did my stainless repairs were highly skilled and true professionals. Besides fabricating and installing a 10 ft section of rail and stanchions (done off the boat after tack welding everything on the boat, they weld repaired some broken bales on the underside of the stanchions that retain the jib-sheet-car traveler line. They did this by removing the stanchion base screws, flexing the lifeline about an inch away from the toe-rail, putting protective metal plating between the fibergla ss and the work piece and TIG welding the bale-to-base, upside down, in close quarters while laying on the deck. Amazing work. I can't believe the results of all their work. Perfect in every way.

Re: FW: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lifeline Stanchion Removal

pacificcool@...

#40179

Thanks much for the info!

Bill Shaproski

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lifeline Stanchion Removal

James Alton

#40178

Gary,

Thanks for the information. I am curious about what percentage of the bolts you were able to extract from the embedded bar stock? Also what technique for removal of the fasteners seemed to work the best for you?

Best of luck with the rest of your hurricane repairs.

James Alton

SV Sueño

Maramu #220

Show quoted text

On Jun 12, 2018, at 1:54 AM, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

Hi Bill

I echo what Joel and others have said but with a few caveats. I just had about 10 of my stanchions off for repairs following hurricane damage. Most are attached with the threaded-into-embedded-bar stock method but those in the immediate vicinity of the aft "garage" lazarette had washers and nuts on the back side of the vertical face of the toe-rail and the top horizontal face of the toe-rail. This included the three most aft stanchions on the starboard stern area. I didn't have damage on the port side in that area and so I can't speak to that (plus the propane locker is in that area so you'll have to inspect in that area for nuts if that is where your damage is).

I had always assumed that the stanchion that has the outboard rail board on it was welded at the top rail and the block was fabricate in-situ but not so. That stanchion is about 1.5 inches sh ort of going to the top rail and inserts in a hole that is about 75% of the depth of the the wooden block.

Sincerely,

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
currently completing hurricane repairs at Island Marine, Inc, Puerto Del Rey, Puerto Rico

PS I have a son who is a certified welder so I have been taught a lot about quality welding by him. The guys that did my stainless repairs were highly skilled and true professionals. Besides fabricating and installing a 10 ft section of rail and stanchions (done off the boat after tack welding everything on the boat, they weld repaired some broken bales on the underside of the stanchions that retain the jib-sheet-car traveler line. They did this by removing the stanchion base screws, flexing the lifeline about an inch away from the toe-rail, putting protective metal plating between the fibergla ss and the work piece and TIG welding the bale-to-base, upside down, in close quarters while laying on the deck. Amazing work. I can't believe the results of all their work. Perfect in every way.