Date   

Re: In Mast Furling

Martin Birkhoff
 

Hi,
here a pic I made today. It shows the fourth of five battens of the main. I furled it to a position to demonstrate the slant of the batten. The top of the batten pocket has disapeared in the mast, only the last stitching is visible. At the lower end the batten pocket is 2 cm out of the mast. The longer the batten (first, second and third batten) the bigger this effect.
Hope this pic is helpful.

Regards

Martin

Mago del Sur - 54#40
La Línea, Spain


Re: #newboat #newboat

Peter Attinge
 

Thanks for the superfast response!!
@ Ann-Sofie right now she's located in Gävle Sweden

Kind Regards

Peter Attinge


Den ons 21 juli 2021 kl 18:12 skrev Ann-Sofie, S/Y Lady Annila <ann-sofie@...>:

Hej Pete
Välkomnen till Amel familjen ◡̈ 
 (Hi Peter, welcome to the Amel family)

Take a better picture if the broken part and send it to Maude at sav@... and ask if they have it as a spare part. Don’t forget to mention model, year and hull no.

To fix the gear box, you have to dismount the whole unit and then take it to a machine shop. They can probably help you.

Where are you located? 

Regards
Ann-Sofie & Jonas Svanberg
S/Y Lady Annila, SM 232, 1998
Present close to Benidorm, Spain


Skickat från min iPhone

21/07/2021 kl. 17:45 skrev CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>:


Email vikasa.vignando@... or phone Pierangelo Vignando +41 79 447 21 42 (French ONLY). Tell him that Bill Rouse gave you the contact info.

He owned the company that made these for Amel. He has only 2 complete gearboxes with motors around 5k-6k euro. He also has some parts. None of what he has will last long.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 10:40 AM Peter Attinge <elifaab@...> wrote:
Hello al Amel friends!

i have just payd the first 10% for a SM2K 2005. Son named S/Y TINTIN

The gearbox for the jib is broken. the owner is willing to reduce the price for a repare and leave me to solve the problem.
I thing thets not a problem while thet.

 What will it cost to let a company repare it, approxely?

As u can see at the picture they have apply silicone to seal it, and the ring for rope looks like it's broken and need to replace?!

i hope you can manage to understand my spelling :-) 

Kind Regards 

Peter Attinge  Sweden


Re: #newboat #newboat

Ann-Sofie, S/Y Lady Annila
 

Hej Pete
Välkomnen till Amel familjen ◡̈ 
 (Hi Peter, welcome to the Amel family)

Take a better picture if the broken part and send it to Maude at sav@... and ask if they have it as a spare part. Don’t forget to mention model, year and hull no.

To fix the gear box, you have to dismount the whole unit and then take it to a machine shop. They can probably help you.

Where are you located? 

Regards
Ann-Sofie & Jonas Svanberg
S/Y Lady Annila, SM 232, 1998
Present close to Benidorm, Spain
Www.sailinglife.se


Skickat från min iPhone

21/07/2021 kl. 17:45 skrev CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>:


Email vikasa.vignando@... or phone Pierangelo Vignando +41 79 447 21 42 (French ONLY). Tell him that Bill Rouse gave you the contact info.

He owned the company that made these for Amel. He has only 2 complete gearboxes with motors around 5k-6k euro. He also has some parts. None of what he has will last long.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 10:40 AM Peter Attinge <elifaab@...> wrote:
Hello al Amel friends!

i have just payd the first 10% for a SM2K 2005. Son named S/Y TINTIN

The gearbox for the jib is broken. the owner is willing to reduce the price for a repare and leave me to solve the problem.
I thing thets not a problem while thet.

 What will it cost to let a company repare it, approxely?

As u can see at the picture they have apply silicone to seal it, and the ring for rope looks like it's broken and need to replace?!

i hope you can manage to understand my spelling :-) 

Kind Regards 

Peter Attinge  Sweden


Re: Super Maramu No 29 of 1990 brand new drive unit

Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi
 

Many thanks Bill!!!

Helen 


On 21 Jul 2021, at 6:40 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Helen,

You may not need the "threaded rods" that Kent mentioned. Here is a translation:

This, except use Nyloc nuts:
<image.png>

Nyloc Nuts:
<image.png>


Instead of these 4 bolts and nuts:
<image.png>

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 10:31 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:
Hi Kent and Iris,

Thank you very much!!

Bill just sent me a file which has a plan for the alignment tool so we will definitely get one made. We had asked Maud for one but they no longer stock them.

I’m not sure what you mean about the threaded rod though….like a bolt but longer?

Best regards,
Helen and Kosta 


On 21 Jul 2021, at 4:50 PM, karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:


Hi Helen and Kosta,
I replaced Kristy's drive several years ago. It was straightforward.  If you don't have the alignment "tool" for aligning the engine with the drive, you should really have that.  It is basically a solid block (I had mine made of aluminum by a local machinist) the same thickness as the coupling with holes drilled as on the coupling.  You will also need high strength threaded rod with nuts on both ends to make the connection of coupling to drive and transmission.  Bolts were supplied by Amel...nearly impossible to install.

I'm working from memories several years old and my mind is no longer the steel trap it used to be, but I don't remember any other issues.

If you run into problems, please contact me directly at karkauai "at" yahoo "dot" com.  Maybe your question will jog a buried memory.

Good luck.

Kent & Iris
SM 243
Kristy
Currently cruising Maine

--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


Re: #newboat #newboat

 

Email vikasa.vignando@... or phone Pierangelo Vignando +41 79 447 21 42 (French ONLY). Tell him that Bill Rouse gave you the contact info.

He owned the company that made these for Amel. He has only 2 complete gearboxes with motors around 5k-6k euro. He also has some parts. None of what he has will last long.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 10:40 AM Peter Attinge <elifaab@...> wrote:
Hello al Amel friends!

i have just payd the first 10% for a SM2K 2005. Son named S/Y TINTIN

The gearbox for the jib is broken. the owner is willing to reduce the price for a repare and leave me to solve the problem.
I thing thets not a problem while thet.

 What will it cost to let a company repare it, approxely?

As u can see at the picture they have apply silicone to seal it, and the ring for rope looks like it's broken and need to replace?!

i hope you can manage to understand my spelling :-) 

Kind Regards 

Peter Attinge  Sweden


Re: Super Maramu No 29 of 1990 brand new drive unit

 

Helen,

You may not need the "threaded rods" that Kent mentioned. Here is a translation:

This, except use Nyloc nuts:
image.png
Nyloc Nuts:
image.png

Instead of these 4 bolts and nuts:
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 10:31 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:
Hi Kent and Iris,

Thank you very much!!

Bill just sent me a file which has a plan for the alignment tool so we will definitely get one made. We had asked Maud for one but they no longer stock them.

I’m not sure what you mean about the threaded rod though….like a bolt but longer?

Best regards,
Helen and Kosta 


On 21 Jul 2021, at 4:50 PM, karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:


Hi Helen and Kosta,
I replaced Kristy's drive several years ago. It was straightforward.  If you don't have the alignment "tool" for aligning the engine with the drive, you should really have that.  It is basically a solid block (I had mine made of aluminum by a local machinist) the same thickness as the coupling with holes drilled as on the coupling.  You will also need high strength threaded rod with nuts on both ends to make the connection of coupling to drive and transmission.  Bolts were supplied by Amel...nearly impossible to install.

I'm working from memories several years old and my mind is no longer the steel trap it used to be, but I don't remember any other issues.

If you run into problems, please contact me directly at karkauai "at" yahoo "dot" com.  Maybe your question will jog a buried memory.

Good luck.

Kent & Iris
SM 243
Kristy
Currently cruising Maine

--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


#newboat #newboat

Peter Attinge
 

Hello al Amel friends!

i have just payd the first 10% for a SM2K 2005. Son named S/Y TINTIN

The gearbox for the jib is broken. the owner is willing to reduce the price for a repare and leave me to solve the problem.
I thing thets not a problem while thet.

 What will it cost to let a company repare it, approxely?

As u can see at the picture they have apply silicone to seal it, and the ring for rope looks like it's broken and need to replace?!

i hope you can manage to understand my spelling :-) 

Kind Regards 

Peter Attinge  Sweden


Re: Super Maramu No 29 of 1990 brand new drive unit

Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi
 

Hi Kent and Iris,

Thank you very much!!

Bill just sent me a file which has a plan for the alignment tool so we will definitely get one made. We had asked Maud for one but they no longer stock them.

I’m not sure what you mean about the threaded rod though….like a bolt but longer?

Best regards,
Helen and Kosta 


On 21 Jul 2021, at 4:50 PM, karkauai via groups.io <karkauai@...> wrote:


Hi Helen and Kosta,
I replaced Kristy's drive several years ago. It was straightforward.  If you don't have the alignment "tool" for aligning the engine with the drive, you should really have that.  It is basically a solid block (I had mine made of aluminum by a local machinist) the same thickness as the coupling with holes drilled as on the coupling.  You will also need high strength threaded rod with nuts on both ends to make the connection of coupling to drive and transmission.  Bolts were supplied by Amel...nearly impossible to install.

I'm working from memories several years old and my mind is no longer the steel trap it used to be, but I don't remember any other issues.

If you run into problems, please contact me directly at karkauai "at" yahoo "dot" com.  Maybe your question will jog a buried memory.

Good luck.

Kent & Iris
SM 243
Kristy
Currently cruising Maine

--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


Re: Super Maramu No 29 of 1990 brand new drive unit

karkauai
 

Hi Helen and Kosta,
I replaced Kristy's drive several years ago. It was straightforward.  If you don't have the alignment "tool" for aligning the engine with the drive, you should really have that.  It is basically a solid block (I had mine made of aluminum by a local machinist) the same thickness as the coupling with holes drilled as on the coupling.  You will also need high strength threaded rod with nuts on both ends to make the connection of coupling to drive and transmission.  Bolts were supplied by Amel...nearly impossible to install.

I'm working from memories several years old and my mind is no longer the steel trap it used to be, but I don't remember any other issues.

If you run into problems, please contact me directly at karkauai "at" yahoo "dot" com.  Maybe your question will jog a buried memory.

Good luck.

Kent & Iris
SM 243
Kristy
Currently cruising Maine

--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


Re: chain counter

 

Press and hold the Reset (or older model "Z")  button on the chain counter to turn it off, or to turn off power to the chain counter turn off the toggle switch on the 24-12-volt converter marked permanent.

Momentarily pressing the reset button will zero out the counter.

image.png

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Tue, Jul 20, 2021 at 6:01 PM william reynolds <sail23692@...> wrote:
Does anyone have a good wiring schematic for the original Pochon Chain counter. I have the factory drawings which are not decipherable even if you read French.
I have 3 cables coming to the panel instrument and 2 of these go to a box above the sink labeled "Chain counter". .In this box is a terminal strip which connects the two cables from the panel and also there are 3 smaller cables with 3 wires each.  which connect in some form to the larger cables. One of these smaller cables comes from the constant power supply and one from the counter on the windless.  I can ring out the windless sensor and power supply but what the other cables are is a mystery.
The chain counter is hot all the time when then the power supply is on. This is a bad idea. Having a hot wire in the windless when you are underway and salt spray is flying is inviting corrosion. Needs a dedicated  off/of switch. 
Bill R
Cloudstreet SM2K 331


Super Maramu No 29 of 1990 brand new drive unit

Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi
 


Dear all,

We just received our brand new drive unit from Amel and are wondering if anyone else has replaced theirs and has any advice for us. We have a mechanical engineer to do the job but it would be really helpful if anybody has any advice for us. We had the old original drive unit which gave us various problems for many years until we decided that enough was enough and it was time for an upgrade.

We received all the hoses etc to mount it plus the new mounts and frame for both the engine and the drive unit as we need to raise the engine in order to mount the new drive unit.
I am attaching photos of the parts we received plus the plan for mounting the drive unit to the keel.
As Maud told me we will need to drill a hole in the drive unit so the we can pass the bolt though to affix it to the keel.
We are in touch with Amel but any advice and do or don’ts would be helpful.

Best regards,
Helen and Kosta SY Meditation SM No 29 of 1990
Based in Aegina, Greece



Sent from my iPhone


Galley stove replacement

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Helllo Richard,

Our Unold induction cook plate has suction cups and is very secure on our Corian counter top during very heavy weather. Otherwise, it resides on top of the gas burners and stays well in position. 

Used extensively since 2015 as we live aboard… never a problem. Highly recommended given it’s €70 purchase price. 

Kind regards,

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, Opua NZ




Begin forwarded message:

From: jp.germain45@...
Date: 21 July 2021 at 14:59:32 GMT+12
To: Germain Jean-Pierre <jp.germain45@...>















chain counter

william reynolds
 

Does anyone have a good wiring schematic for the original Pochon Chain counter. I have the factory drawings which are not decipherable even if you read French.
I have 3 cables coming to the panel instrument and 2 of these go to a box above the sink labeled "Chain counter". .In this box is a terminal strip which connects the two cables from the panel and also there are 3 smaller cables with 3 wires each.  which connect in some form to the larger cables. One of these smaller cables comes from the constant power supply and one from the counter on the windless.  I can ring out the windless sensor and power supply but what the other cables are is a mystery.
The chain counter is hot all the time when then the power supply is on. This is a bad idea. Having a hot wire in the windless when you are underway and salt spray is flying is inviting corrosion. Needs a dedicated  off/of switch. 
Bill R
Cloudstreet SM2K 331


Osmosis Treatment - 1986 Mango

Ellen Cahill
 

We are contemplating osmosis treatment for our Mango. Unfortunately our boat seems to be a victim of the 'bad' resin catalyst used in the mid 80's. We have lots of large blisters (up to 40mm in diameter). Bobato in La Rochelle inspected a number of the blisters a few years ago and recommended treatment.

- Has anyone here treated (or decided not to treat) osmosis on an older Amel? Why?
- What drying method did you use (natural, hotVAC, etc.)
- Are you satisfied?

Thanks!
Ellen
Saol Nua, Mango #45



Re: #attackedbywhales #newboat WE SOLD THE BOAT! Now what??? Sailing Ocean F... #attackedbywhales #newboat

Martin Birkhoff
 

Hi All,

yesterday we had some interaction with Orcas some 5-7 miles west of Tarifa, Spain.

Some informations:

- in our opinion they were a female adult and a juvenile. 
- The animals did not appear aggressive. They did not undertake any activities directed against the hull. Some bumps against the hull were rather unintentional. All their attention was focused on the rudder.
- The adult seemed to introduce the juvenile to an exciting game: "push the rudder"
- One catamaran two miles off was affected some 45 to 50 minutes without interruption first. A motor vessel came to help and made circles around the catamaran to attract or disturb the animals. After this the animals visited our boat to continue their game. The interaction lasted more or less the 45-50 minutes in total too with two breaks of 10 minutes each.

Damage
- Lever arm of rudder sensor was twisted (we could fix it correctly without any problems.)
- Rudder stuffing box leaking; it leaked surprisingly badly. (Could be tightened on site). 
- no damage at the rudder (we checked it today)

Remarks concerning our own behaviour
- The fact whether our echo sounder was active or not did not seem to have any influence on the animals. 
- Running the engine clearly attracted the animals.
- Whether the animals could perceive us or not did not seem to have any influence on their behaviour.
- The strategy of shutting down all systems and the engine and playing "dead" did not convince us.
- The strategy of an catamara close too us to quickly follow the planned course under engine seems to be more successful. It had by far the shortest Orca contact by the same animals, maybe 3-5 minutes. We don't know whether the crew was going under autopilot or steering manually during the contact. From our own experience, we can say that hand steering would have been possible with proper caution. The rudder pressure exerted by the Orcas was not extremely strong.
 
Regards

Martin
Mago del Sur - 54#40
La Línea, Spain
 
 


Re: In Mast Furling

Martin Birkhoff
 

Hi Randall,
here some pics.
The mizzen (2 pics) is unfurled completely. You can see the first batten is in a closer distance to the mast, the space between the next battens is larger. Its not to see that the battens are slightly slanted, but they are. The mizzen is trimmed to go as close to the wind as possible with quite some knots of wind. Otherwise we would release the outhawl of course. 
The main is in its "first" reef meaning the first batten is furled in.  

Regards

Martin
Mago del Sur - 54#40
La Linea, Spain


Re: Furuno MFDBB black box does not boot anymore - upgrade to new TZT2 black box and TZT3

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Ralph,

I replaced the Navnet 3D BB system with the latest Furuno gizmos.
The good news is you don’t need a TZT3 plotter for in the cockpit. The TZ2BB can control 2 displays independently. So I replaced the MFD in the cockpit with a touchscreen monitor and a Furuno control pad in case you don't want to use the touchscreen. This saves power. This was for me the main reason to replace the Navnet3D. The latter is very power hungry.
What I also did is replace the two NAvPilot computers with the 700 series. For this you need to by the computer and the operating console only, the rest can be re-used. The 700-series is compatible with the TZ2 using NEMA-2000.
I also decided to replace the 4 B&G instruments with Furuno FI70s giving you much more options on displayed data (like tue wind information). I kept the B&G CPU and graphic displays. They still provide the speed/depth/wind data.

In short what you need is:
- TZ2 Black Box
- Radar power supply
- Shipmodul programmable NMEA converter
- Conversion set for the inside Furuno control console
- Conversion set for inside display to make it touchscreen
- Active HDMI extension cables and active USB extension cables
- NMEA 2000 cables and joints

There is more but let me know if you need the details as it is quite an extensive conversion.

In the end you may want to consider to move to another brand altogether. But because of the Radardome and the AIS transceiver that may give you a comparable price tag in the end. I know of one A54 that did a full B&G conversion and he spend about 20k$ on it. My conversion was much less but I saved a lot on using a few secondhand parts. Occasionally Ebay can offer nice deals on parts that were taken off boats from people that have more money then brains and always want the very latest.

Kind regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Holes in the watertight bulkhead

Jim Anderson
 

I recall there was a discussion of this on the old Yahoo group a decade or so ago. On SM384 in the forward head, looking in the bottom, aft opening and facing aft, outboard, there is an opening through the watertight bulkhead which, if I remember correctly, is for the A/C seawater pipe, (flowing forward). There is some space around this pipe that water could pass through if not caulked. It may be necessary to remove an access plate to see this. Also if memory serves, I believe the gentleman broker in Fort Lauderdale who has forgotten more about Amels than I'll ever know, may have indicated on that thread that this was the case in a fair number of SM's, and should be checked. But I could be wrong about that part, as the ol' synapses ain't always what they used to be.
Jim 
SM384
Sirena Azul 
Seattle


Re: Holes in the watertight bulkhead

eric freedman
 

Mike,

The wire conduit on the starboard side under the pull-out bunk runs very low along the hull and runs through the bulkhead. It raises up about an inch just aft of the bulkhead making pulling a wire a pain. It is under a flap of carpet and is about 1 inch and a half in diameter. As you mentioned the aft bulkhead has wires running through it in the engine room high on the port side for the AC wiring.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 9:40 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Holes in the watertight bulkhead

 

Our vessel, a 1990 SM#23, has domestic water lines running through the bulkhead where Eric describes (outboard, portside, along the hull, near the waterline). They look original and are glassed in, which means they should be sealed. Makes me wonder what headaches will come when they fail and need replacing. Same story going aft - domestic water lines penetrate the bulkhead to supply the aft head. Air conditioning circulation hose goes back that way as well. But other than that, wire conduits are higher up, basically just below the deck.

 

Cheers,

Mike Longcor

SV Trilogy SM23

NZ

 

On Tue, Jul 20, 2021, 12:30 PM Bill Kinney <cruisingconsulting@...> wrote:

Eric,

If I understand you correctly, your bulkheads were never actually water tight as delivered by Amel with open conduit going through? That seems... odd?  But boats are odd things...

The water lines do (of course) need to go through the bulkhead to the head sink, and the position of those varies through the production run, but all the ones I have seen were well sealed, and none (of the ones I have seen)  were at the outboard edge near the hull.

I haven't seen a majority of SM's by any means, but I have seen a fair number, and that this be a new one for me...

Live and learn...

I'd love to see pictures.

Bill


Re: Holes in the watertight bulkhead

Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
 

Our vessel, a 1990 SM#23, has domestic water lines running through the bulkhead where Eric describes (outboard, portside, along the hull, near the waterline). They look original and are glassed in, which means they should be sealed. Makes me wonder what headaches will come when they fail and need replacing. Same story going aft - domestic water lines penetrate the bulkhead to supply the aft head. Air conditioning circulation hose goes back that way as well. But other than that, wire conduits are higher up, basically just below the deck.

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
NZ

On Tue, Jul 20, 2021, 12:30 PM Bill Kinney <cruisingconsulting@...> wrote:
Eric,

If I understand you correctly, your bulkheads were never actually water tight as delivered by Amel with open conduit going through? That seems... odd?  But boats are odd things...

The water lines do (of course) need to go through the bulkhead to the head sink, and the position of those varies through the production run, but all the ones I have seen were well sealed, and none (of the ones I have seen)  were at the outboard edge near the hull.

I haven't seen a majority of SM's by any means, but I have seen a fair number, and that this be a new one for me...

Live and learn...

I'd love to see pictures.

Bill

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