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Re: Turbo question
Rob,
The most concerning part of this picture is the fan. The fan should be clean and you should be able to flick it with your fingertip and watch it spin. If it doesn’t spin freely, the problem with your lack of getting RPM is indeed the turbo. You are probably also blowing out smoke as you increase the RPM with a damaged turbo.
You have just found out how expensive turbos are for a marine engine. Save your old one and hunt for an automotive turbo repair shop during your travels. They are common. The chances are it can easily be rebuilt for not much money (under $200).
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia www.creampuff.us
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
[mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Rob Hughes via
groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2020 12:10 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Turbo question
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Looking for late model SM 2000
My wife and I are former SM owners who miss the life and our Amel. We have been shopping for 50 foot plus boat for several months and nothing comes close to our Amel. We're interested in late model SM 2000.
Ben and Gayle Driver formerly SM 2000 #347
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Re: servicing mainsail fuller and outhaul
Scott SV Tengah
My "middle aged" A54 has the front cover that you guys reference.
I drilled a few additional holes in the bottom of the rest of the cover. The original Amel setup has one small hole and when I opened up all of the covers to service the outhaul motor/gearbox, there was some water pooling. I do believe that water can readily enter from the top near the shaft. Specifically if it runs down the outhaul rope track. When we give the boat a good freshwater wash, water definitely streams out of the holes I drilled. -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Re: Amel 54 alternator belts
HI Barry,
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The trick is to buy an off the shelf small pulley. I think that Leece-Neville only do the one I bought, because I looked at the Pulley options on their website. The shaft on the 175 A alternator is imperial 7/8 inch so you cannot just buy any old pulley, and they have a funny keyway. Anyhow they are easy to buy on eBay USA. The small pulley nut can be undone with a ring spanner and an 8mm alan key that slots into the alternator shaft end. I cut off a section of alan key and slotted it into a ratchet handle as it requires considerable force to remove. Like 100 ft lbs! The big pulley is easy to take off, just undo the four bolts and gently prise it off. It has a male flange/hub that sets into the crank pulley about 3mm. If you actually have the small pulley to give to the machine shop it sure makes it easy to explain what you want. If you are going Lithium, you will clearly need a special regulator for the alternator with a heat sensor so it does not overheat, and you should maybe think about ducting cooling air directly at the alternator. I wish I could go back to the boat and fit it all and make sure it all works well. My original set up had two idler pulleys one top and one bottom. This improves the wrap, however the belt has a slack side and a tight side, and I was always told to only add the idler to the slack side, if possible. So I experimented with the old set up removing the idler on the tight side ( bottom one), to no real improvement. My current view is that without any idler the wrap is 160 degrees, and with the top idler only, which is the slack side, it will be a bit better at say 170 degrees. These are both very good wraps. How to decide on the pulley you need I went about it by seeing what pulley Leece-Neville could supply. This pretty much nailed it as the biggest they had was the K section 8 rib one. Then I looked at various websites that sell high output alternator kits and conversions and cribbed the Micro v belts that were used, and looked at the size of drive pulleys they used. Many of these alternators are running very small pulleys like 50mm, the drive pulleys are typically 150mm. So they get the 3:1ratio from 150mm drive pulley and 50mm alt pulley. We are much better off as the 230mm pulley machines down to 200mm, and we need 3:1 so 67mm would do it. The one I bought is 69mm max diameter but 63.5mm across the grooves. If making from new one could have 230mm drive pulley and a 75mm alt pulley. But that would be expensive and frankly unnecessary. There are two forces to consider; We are think the small pulley as there is never a problem with the big one. 1. Belt wrap, i.e. friction. This is how much belt is in contact with the pulley. So the circumference of the pulley x the proportion of the pulley wrap. So 160 degrees wrap is 160/360 x 2 x 3.14 x radius 2. then there is the lever effect which is also the radius. Imagine the belt being your arm and the radius being the length of the wrench, a short wrench needs a stronger arm. 3. then there is the width of the belt, i.e. number of ribs. 6,8, 10 or even 12. Clearly by going for smaller pulleys you add load on the belt. Not only from less surface area in contact with the pulley but also the shorter turning moment. Looking at these web sites they all use serpentine (micro v belts) and either 6, 8 or 10 ribbed belts. Having decided that we are in the right ball park, and seeing as Leece-Neville sell that pulley a their top one I was happy with the engineering choice. Then I thought it would be interesting to calculate how many KW such a belt would support; Now I am not 100% sure, so any engineer who knows better please correct me but by the tables I think that the 8 rib belt should be able to run 8 X 0.41KW assuming 120 degree wrap and a belt tension of 10kg per rib on a 45mm pulley. That is 3280 Watts with a belt tension of 80Kg. However we have better wrap so could add 40% = 4592 watts. This is 170A at 27v for a 45mm pulley, but we are running a 63.5mm pulley so the radius is increased from 22.5 to 31.5 which is another 40%. Which works out to 238A at 27v. So in conclusion we could reduce the belt tension slightly by experiment. You want it so that it does not slip at maximum output. I intend to watch the belt, run the engine at say 1500 rpm and engage the bow thruster. If it does not slip then, reduce the tension slightly until you get slip then tighten it a bit. I have a Kriket tension gauge. I reckon it will be at about 75kg. Which is pretty tight, but the belt gates specs about 100kg. It has been a fun project. Nick (in the UK) Amelia AML 54-019 in Leros.
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Amel 54 alternator belts
Begin forwarded message:
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Re: converting 24v alternator to ribbed micro v (serpentine)
Thank you Nick,
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This is excellent information. Early 2019 I had my engine serviced at Marina de Ragusa in Sicily, the technicians told me the pulleys were wrong. I didn’t want to try and replace the pulleys with no engineering knowledge. You have just solved the problem for all early 54 owners. Thank you again. Very Best Barry and Penny “SV Lady Penelope II” Amel 54. #17 Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique
On Sep 24, 2020, at 08:00, ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:
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converting 24v alternator to ribbed micro v (serpentine)
Hi fellow Amel owners. I have never been happy with the Leece-Neville 24v 175A alternator set up on Amelia presumably as supplied by Amel. Namely a double V belt pulley of 230mm diameter driving a 85mm diameter pulley on the alternator. These pulleys were supplied for B section belts, i.e. 17mm across the top. There was endless belt dust and short belt life. I checked the specs on B section belts and the minimum pulley diameter should be 112mm although it is possible to buy a cogged belt that can run on a minimum 91mm diameter pulley, however in general 112mm diameter is the smallest for B section belts. So this 85mm diameter pulley was wrong for such big belts. I found on eBay Leece-Neville part number K176101466, priced $30. This is a K section 8 groove pulley with 63mm diameter. The bore is 7/8 inch with keyway to fit the alternator. The pulley was new and unused. Micro v belts can go round much smaller pulleys. I think for the K section it is a minimum of 45mm. So no problem going round a 63mm pulley. I then took the original 230mm double groove pulley, that bolts to the Volvo crankshaft to my local machine shop in the UK who milled it down to match the Leece-Neville one I bought. He did a superb job for £60. Please see the photos of the big pulley that has been machined down from 230mm to 200mm. So I calculate that I now have a pulley ratio of 3.14 whilst before it was 2.7. Thus at idle (725 rpm on the engine) the alternator now runs at 2300 rpm and will be charging nicely. Where as before in idle it was running at 1957 rpm. The alternator only kicks in at 2000 rpm. So in the boat manoeuvring situation we will now have proper charge, and we all know how much power the Bowthruster uses. The alternator is rated for a maximum RPM of 8000. The Volvo D3 has maximum rpm of about 2700 so I calculate that the maximum engine rpm will have to be 2547. Seeing as that is really thrashing the engine and I never run it it that level apart from the once a year blast out. I will put a small sticker at the helm saying Max RPM 2500. Total cost in US$ including new Gates Fleetrunner belt about $125. Obviously when I get back to the boat I will have to align the alternator, but note how now both pulley are exactly the same width. It will be much easier than before where one pulley was 47mm and the other 52mm. The machine shop supplied me with a few spacers, washers of different thickness, to help but I may well have to have a washer made for the final alignment. Nick (in the UK) S/Y Amelia AML 54-019 in Leros Gr
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Re: Pasarelle / swim ladder SM
Mark Barter
The previous owner of Nunky replaced the boards with Flexi Teak and it looks great. I am back at the boat next week so I will take some photos of what he did. I will also measure it.
-- Mark & Nicky Barter S/V Nunky SM 110
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Re: Fuel Line
Mark Barter
Hi Mark,
It is the fuel line that runs from the fuel shut off valve along the side of the fuel tank to the first filter. Thanks -- Mark & Nicky Barter S/V Nunky SM 110
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Re: Turbo question
No i clean the Turbo make nwe seals and it works perfekt
Elja SM Balu 222 Von meinem iPhone gesendet
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Re: Turbo question
This is how mine is, just some corrosion at the valve, have decided to put it back and ser if it works now after cleaning, else buy a new one.
Paul on sykerpa SM 259
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Re: Pasarelle / swim ladder SM
Hi Alan,
Here are a couple of pictures of ours, if it can help. The wheels were changed by me and are not original (couldn’t find them). Not on the boat at the moment, so cannot take dimensions. Guillaume Carpathia III - SM2K #293 Now in Athens
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Re: Pasarelle / swim ladder SM
Thanks Dave,
That would be great ! No rush, I'm not going anywhere for a while ! Look forward to the photos and drawing. Cheers Alan ELYSE SM437
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Re: Pasarelle / swim ladder SM
Thanks Danny,
I'll let you know. Alan
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Re: After market engine mounts ?
#replacement
The Amel "C" drive design presents a novel marine engine mount configuration, namely, there is absolutely no thrust component and the mounts are not fastened to the engine!
Conventional "factory spec" mounts for marine (propulsion) engines are designed to handle three components; vibration dampening, torsional resistance and mostly, a huge thrust resistance. Without the requirement for withstanding a thrust component, I would posit that "factory supplied" mounts are over specified for an Amel ("C" drive). In fact, the "Amel way" (on "C" drive boats) does not even attach any "engine mounts" to the engine! Instead the the engine is "hard bolted" to the frame carrying both the engine and "C" drive and the entire frame is connected to the hull with "engine mounts" (the "C" drive has it's own "engine mounts" to the frame). These "engine mounts" might more appropriately be called "vibration dampeners". So, for example, Yanmar "factory spec" "engine mounts" are designed for four independent attachment points to the engine stringers to resist the full HP thrust of the propeller and handle torsion and vibration. On the Amel "C" drive, there are six "engine mounts" - four attachment points that are not independent with respect to the engine and two more for the "C" drive. Clearly a different engineering situation. Just food for thought. Cheers, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Re: Turbo question
yes i have the tamd pb
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Re: Turbo question
Alain Blanchard
Hello Rob
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I remember this video about turbo. It might Help ... There are 4 videos on the subject.
Alain
Envoyé de mon iPhone
Le 24 sept. 2020 à 02:59, Germain Jean-Pierre <jp.germain45@...> a écrit :
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Re: After market engine mounts ?
#replacement
Hi Paul,
I believe the 200 refers to a capacity of 200 kg. When Didier, an experienced Amel mechanic in Le Marin replaced our original mounts for our 2004 Yanmar 4JH3-HTE engine he suggested increasing the capacity of original Vetus mounts to the 300 kg model, Yanmar part number 120149-08441 -- https://photos.app.goo.gl/sZ5QSSX4HzJTtexh9 . He told me that he felt it was a better match for the engine, especially with the extra weight of our heavier Leece-Neville alternators and double v-belt assemblies. Didier told us that it was possible that more vibration would be transmitted by these mounts but I did not detect any increase and he agreed when we sea-trialed the new mounts and (more importantly) his engine alignment. The new mounts looked much the same as the original Vetus mounts except they were a bit "beefier". Didier can be reached at vaguesca@... (best to use French). Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI SM429
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Re: Pasarelle / swim ladder SM
I have mine set up now and I’ll be on my SM2 on Friday. I’ll send photos. I am also going to make a new plank for the passerelle because mine is coming apart. I’ll send along a dimensioned drawing. (Might be a week or two.)
-- Dave Kurtz SM2 #380 S/V Celtic Cross Detroit, Michigan
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Re: Turbo question
Germain Jean-Pierre
Question??? Are you sure of the engine desig? TMD22 is the usual engine , not the TAMD...
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, OPUA,NZ
On 24/09/2020, at 10:10 AM, Rob Hughes via groups.io <svluna01@...> wrote:
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