Date   

Re: A question to the hive mind re Amel 54 (Sleipner side power) Bow thruster capacitor please.

Scott SV Tengah
 

Try Brad at Imtra, the distributor in the US. They've been pretty helpful and responsive.

Norwegians (Sleipner) may still be on summer holiday. :)

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Wifi extenders and the bonding system

Scott SV Tengah
 

Arno, 

I got it to work only with the help of my friend. I literally couldn't connect to the Mikrotik Wap AC to even try to set it up for a year! Having a Mac doesn't help. I believe your Badboy is the same as my old Wirie Pro - a Bullet with a custom firmware, which you access through a webpage. Same with the Mikrotik, but it's just far more complicated. 

To be clear, I've never used a Mikrotik for the WAN portion of my network. In other words, it was always for the internal wifi network. For that it's been great. My internal network is fast enough that I have one hard drive shared between multiple computers over wifi and data transfer is almost as fast as connecting the hard drive by cable directly.  

For connecting to remote access points (cafe/restaurant/marina/etc), I first used the Bullet/Wirie, which is exactly what you have. Then I used the Alfa Tube, which had a much lower noise floor. For whatever reason, I had a big problem with noise floor on the Bullet. As you probably know, it's not just signal strength, but it's signal strength relative to the noise floor, which determines how fast/responsive your internet will be.

Moreover, the results you receive are dependent on another multitude of factors, so just isolating receiver sensitivity and transmission power to compare different setups, if all else is not equal, is not very useful. If the airwaves are congested where you are, the strongest received signal, defined by signal-to-noise ratio, won't help you too much. The nature of 2.4ghz transmissions is that many of the channels OVERLAP and some routers double their radio bandwidth to 40mhz in an effort to increase throughput, but that results in a higher likelihood of overlapping. So if you have someone else on an overlapping channel, you will have slowdowns. Further, the remote access point's connection to the internet is another factor. You can have the strongest, best receiver in the world but if your marina/cafe's access point has a dial up connection, the best speed you will ever get is dial up.

Finally, be careful cranking up transmission power. First off, it only helps with uploading. Secondly, Badboy's claimed 36db must include the gain from the antenna. Otherwise, they're violating max power limits from the FCC and I believe they're based in the US. Thirdly, my networking engineer friend explained to me that many wifi routers are smart. If your boat is sending a very powerful signal out, the receiving router interprets that as you being something like a smartphone that is very close to that router. To save power for both the router and the "smartphone client", the router will then lower its own output power. Through experimenting, I find that if I encounter one of those smart routers, turning DOWN my transmission power will increase my internet speed. Finally, high transmission power will increase the likelihood for interference for other users - bad karma and also another reason why smart routers, in an attempt to be good citizens, will decrease their output power in response to a high power received signal.

This wifi stuff is almost as complicated as maintaining a boat! Almost.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: A question to the hive mind re Amel 54 (Sleipner side power) Bow thruster capacitor please.

Ryan Meador
 

Hi Porter,

The capacitor should be labeled.  On one side of the disc, I expect you'll see some tiny numbers.  If you can write them down and/or get a clear photo, that would help a lot for identifying it.  Failing that, you'll have to measure it with a meter (looks impossible due to the damage) or get the specifications from the manufacturer.

I concur with the tech -- it is a ceramic capacitor, most likely to reduce electrical/radio interference.  I'd prefer not to speculate on whether it's safe to operate the thruster without it.

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Fri, Aug 21, 2020 at 1:02 PM Porter McRoberts via groups.io <portermcroberts=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Yesterday while cleaning contactor and brushes and then reassembling the bow thruster, accidentally we tore this small wire and capacitor vs resistor which connected between the brushes Set “A” and Set “B” of the four sets A-D. It appears to be a capacitor of some kind, theorized by the guy in the electronics shop to offer some sort of harmonic filtering and reduction of radio interference, and thus non-essential to the function of the BT.   It is a Sleipner “side power” bow thruster. No response yet from Sleipner.

The electronics guy has a host of small capacitors, and it would be easy to wire one up, but which size?  Might anyone 1) know the size?, 2) be able to confirm the non-essential nature of this small device? 3) have any suggestions in the absence of intel from Sleipner?

Thank you very much!

Porter McRoberts
A54-152. Tahiti.




A question to the hive mind re Amel 54 (Sleipner side power) Bow thruster capacitor please.

Porter McRoberts
 

Yesterday while cleaning contactor and brushes and then reassembling the bow thruster, accidentally we tore this small wire and capacitor vs resistor which connected between the brushes Set “A” and Set “B” of the four sets A-D. It appears to be a capacitor of some kind, theorized by the guy in the electronics shop to offer some sort of harmonic filtering and reduction of radio interference, and thus non-essential to the function of the BT. It is a Sleipner “side power” bow thruster. No response yet from Sleipner.

The electronics guy has a host of small capacitors, and it would be easy to wire one up, but which size? Might anyone 1) know the size?, 2) be able to confirm the non-essential nature of this small device? 3) have any suggestions in the absence of intel from Sleipner?

Thank you very much!

Porter McRoberts
A54-152. Tahiti.


Re: Furling main on Amel 60

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Bill,

Not surprised about the change to ProFurl. Reckmann may be good stuff but the price is eye-watering.
If you look closely at the mainsail you will notice an block in the mainsail and a line going to the end of the boom. That seems the way most Selden masts are setup, but they use a winch for the outhaul.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Furling main on Amel 60

 

Arno,

I did not notice that but did notice the use of electric ProFurl furlers rather than Reckmann furlers on the genoa and staysail.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Aug 21, 2020 at 9:42 AM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
Dear forum,

Did anyone have a close look at the furling system on the new Amel 60 for the main sail. From what I can see they changed the way this works but the pictures are not very detailed. More specifically the way the outhaul works seems to have changed as the motor seems to have disappeared from the boom.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Ladder

james Hosford
 

Ah thanks pictures I saw I thought it was fiberglass or fiberglass encapsulated wood.   Oh well it was an idea


On Aug 21, 2020, at 9:07 AM, Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:



James,

Assuming you have the OEM Amel bumper, the bumper would likely just rip off the back of the boat if you tried that.  It's made from some sort of foam rubber and held in place by just two M8 bolts with some fender washers. The bolts are meant to hold up the weight of the bumper and keep it in place in a compression load (bumping into a dock, etc.).  They are not meant to hold the weight of a ladder and person pulling down on the bumper.


--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Furling main on Amel 60

Arno Luijten
 

Dear forum,

Did anyone have a close look at the furling system on the new Amel 60 for the main sail. From what I can see they changed the way this works but the pictures are not very detailed. More specifically the way the outhaul works seems to have changed as the motor seems to have disappeared from the boom.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Ladder

Mark McGovern
 

James,

Assuming you have the OEM Amel bumper, the bumper would likely just rip off the back of the boat if you tried that.  It's made from some sort of foam rubber and held in place by just two M8 bolts with some fender washers. The bolts are meant to hold up the weight of the bumper and keep it in place in a compression load (bumping into a dock, etc.).  They are not meant to hold the weight of a ladder and person pulling down on the bumper.


--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Cook top dimensions

Gerhard Mueller
 


Responding to Gerhard, yours seems a brilliant solution but from the photo I cannot understand if the system is gimballing or you  are using it only in the fixed position
Paolo Cuneo
SM454 Whisper
Paolo
Since I don't have 220 Volt on board I can use the cooker only in the harbor.
--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece


Re: Cook top dimensions

Bryce Procter
 

Hi Paolo,

Thanks and apologies for the slow reply. The cooktop I am looking at is the Miele KM 7200 FR with dimensions of 574mm W, 504mm D and 48mm H.
Looks like this should fit well. Not cheap but quality is remembered long after price is forgotten. If I ever get back to my boat I'll post some photos :)

Cheers

Bryce
SM #467




On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 4:58 PM +0800, "PAOLO CUNEO" <pc43ge@...> wrote:

Hi all,
I suggest to make double sure about the measurement we are referring to. On my SM, 590 mm is the space available for fitting the entire oven set. The gimballing steel frame  outer width is 570 mm and, given a 3mm steel plate thickness, the inside clearance is 570-6 equal 564 mm.
If the idea of Bryce is to place the new set on top of the existing frame, the width shouldn't be a problem. If the set is a square, the trouble is with the depth as te current ss frame is only  550mm and then, leaving some clearance for safeguarding your fingers, you run into the crash bar. This at least on my boat
Hope this helps
Best
Paolo Cuneo
SM 454 Whisper, currently in Sardinia


Ladder

james Hosford
 

Anyone modify their back step to accept the stock ladder in a down position. Send like it would be easy enough to add a socket to the bumper and make it a lot easier to get in and out with gear on.
Sent from my iPhone


Re: Bow-thruster repair at anchor

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hello Charlie,
If I’m not mistaken, the A50 has a different BT. I believe it is made by Sleipner. 

Congratulations on your 50.  

Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM007, NZ




On 21/08/2020, at 10:26 AM, Charlie Kopp <ckopp@...> wrote:

Thank you so much for this, Paul. I haven’t been very active on this group yet, but I was lucky to acquire SM#50 in the fall of 2017. I must admit the bowthruster has been quite a black box to me, and your video really helped to demystify it. That’s too bad about the new lid not matching up. Anyway, much appreciated. I hope someday I can add some useful content, too.

Charlie Kopp on SY Cloud Seven SM#50 Seattle WA USA


Re: Bow-thruster repair at anchor

Charlie Kopp
 

Thank you so much for this, Paul. I haven’t been very active on this group yet, but I was lucky to acquire SM#50 in the fall of 2017. I must admit the bowthruster has been quite a black box to me, and your video really helped to demystify it. That’s too bad about the new lid not matching up. Anyway, much appreciated. I hope someday I can add some useful content, too.

Charlie Kopp on SY Cloud Seven SM#50 Seattle WA USA


Re: Water hoses in engine room

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Vic,
You note you've got a West Marine (WM) nearby and Kevin said he used Defenders. I just did a bunch of replacements - WM was $7.29 for the Scandvik ABA 316 SS SAE10. A local FL store (Boat Owners Warehouse) has it for 3.92 and Defender is $2.99. Buying many clamps makes Defender's shipping charge minor. Scandvik ABA is excellent. WM has Scandvik add a digit to the clamp number so they can call it a private brand and refuse to price match, saying it is not identical - it is.

Double clamping has been highly recommended for thru-hulls (with long barbs). Not important for fresh water, sea water on pump discharges and engine coolant as you likely won't sink if those go.

My project was the hot water tank.  To clean just remove all the hoses and electric feed, then drain and take it out of the engine room. Pull the heating element and plumbing fittings. Then rinse thoroughly, shaking it around and upside down to slosh out any sludge. If you've got rusty sludge, rinse and slosh some more with a bunch of phosphoric acid to passivate. Reassemble with fresh teflon tape on the pipe threads and maybe put in a new heating element - every few years is good for those - and do check the wiring for any electric corrosion.  Don't forget the clamps on the copper distribution pipes along the hull - mine were buried in sound insulation and rusting badly.

Mine is a 16 year old IsoTemp that had a tiny leak at the hot outlet that dripped down and corroded the thermostats. I had patched a side wall leak with JB Weld 15 years ago and that was still good (JB Weld rocks!) but I peeled that off anyway and redid both with a new JB Weld "Marine" version for $8. Replacement generic button thermostats = $3. Replacement heating element $12. Total repair $23 vs new IsoTemp at about $700.  I did put it on the "repair-again" list for 2035. 

Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: Water hoses in engine room

James Alton
 

Vic,
   You have some good questions and it will be interesting to read the input. I can tell that for myself I try to only use the Shields exhaust hose below waterline and always double clamp those connections with the best 316 grade stainless clamps I can find. Sometimes you will have hose Barb's that are too short for the double clamps, try to change those out with longer ones if you can.  The ABA brand hose clamp has been pretty good for me.  Look for a hose clamp with a band that has the teeth for the gear rolled into in rather than being cut through it as the latter are more prone to breakage in my experience. The exhaust hose is not cheap but it's well constructed and has been very reliable.  The hose also seems to resist damage from engine oil and can handle a lot more heat than a vinyl hose.  For a hose run that is subjected to any suction or has anything more than a very gentle bend, the hose needs to a reinforcement to prevent collapse. In the case of the exhaust hose this will be a wire spiral that will require some decent side cutters to get through.  If you pull a bit on the wire when cutting the sharp end of the wire will bury itself back into the hose.  Best of luck with your project.  
James
Maramu #220

On Aug 17, 2020 1:10 PM, Vic Fryzel <vic.fryzel@...> wrote:

Hi,

For the first time, I'm looking at replacing a lot of or ~all of the hoses/valves that deliver fresh or raw water in the engine room.

Some of mine have become extremely rusted or are a bit split. A lot of the hose clamps are rusted closed. And some of the valves are barely usable because of some corrosion or rust. I'm hoping folks might be able to help me with a few questions:

1. Is there a type or class of hose I need to use? Any other hose requirements? Are transparent hoses okay?
2. Should I be double clamping each hose end?
3. Is there a valve material or SAE/metric requirement for both fresh and salt water?
4. When cutting the hoses, do I need any sort of special tool?
5. Similar questions for the bilge pump hoses specifically. Not sure if there are requirements of these?
6. Any retailers that sell this stuff that come to mind? I have a West Marine close by, but am happy to go elsewhere. For reference my boat is in San Diego right now.
7. After I replace this stuff, is there any specific type of maintenance other than visual inspection to keep things in good working order?
8. For my hot water heater, do folks have any references they could link me to on how to clean it? I don't think it's been cleaned/serviced in 6+ years.

Thanks!
-Vic "Moon Dog" SM248



Re: Dolphin power 1 battery chargers

Ross Hickey & Donna Hammond
 

Thanks Stefan,
Very helpful. I will look into Victron battery balancer.

Kind regards

On Thursday, August 20, 2020, 8:55 pm, Stefan Jeukendrup <sjeukendrup@...> wrote:

Hi Ross,

Appologies for the delay in answering, sailing to Datca now ;-)

The manual is now on the forum under Files, Search, type "Dolphin"

 

* suggest to ask D. for a manual of your 100A charger, email contact@...

* the solar MPPT settings are important as it does most of the time the final charge cutoff.

The batteries and accessoires of your 24V stack must be exactly the same:

* all battery cables must be in good condition e.g. isolation,  crimping, oxidation

* cables to the battery terminals must be of the same length and cross section.

* suggest to install one or more Victron battery balancers, if not done already

 

Hope this is helpfull,


Stefan Jeukendrup

sv Malaka Queen

SM2k #348  ~to Turkey


Re: Dolphin power 1 battery chargers

Stefan Jeukendrup
 

Hi Ross,

Appologies for the delay in answering, sailing to Datca now ;-)

The manual is now on the forum under Files, Search, type "Dolphin"

 

* suggest to ask D. for a manual of your 100A charger, email contact@...

* the solar MPPT settings are important as it does most of the time the final charge cutoff.

The batteries and accessoires of your 24V stack must be exactly the same:

* all battery cables must be in good condition e.g. isolation,  crimping, oxidation

* cables to the battery terminals must be of the same length and cross section.

* suggest to install one or more Victron battery balancers, if not done already

 

Hope this is helpfull,


Stefan Jeukendrup

sv Malaka Queen

SM2k #348  ~to Turkey


Re: Water hoses in engine room

Vic Fryzel
 

Thanks Kevin! This is extremely useful!! I'll be following all that advice.

Thanks,
- Vic


On Tue, Aug 18, 2020 at 5:09 AM Kevin Fox via groups.io <foxkm=protonmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Vic,

I'm no expert, but here are my experiences.  I've recently replaced a lot of the engine room hoses on Rascal due to rusted hose clamps, stiff hoses, and to simplify some non-Amel modifications.

1. I've been using various grades of Trident hose for fresh and sea water.  They are mostly transparent but reinforced with either fiber or a PVC helix.  It's helpful to be able to see whether liquid is inside, particularly when troubleshooting a bilge pump issue.
2. Doubling the hose clamps is dependent upon the length of the fitting that the hose slips over.  If the fitting is too short, adding a second hose clamp can do more harm than good.  If there's room, I've used two.  Be sure to look for good quality stainless steel hose clamps, preferably not the perforated type.
3. I don't know.  Rascal had a minimal number of valves in the water systems and I've kept it that way.  I added a lot of isolation valves when re-plumbing my house, and they weren't worth the trouble.  I replaced a couple leaking metallic valves on Rascal's water maker with PVC valves.  I'll be watching to see how well they hold up.  
4. A ratcheting pipe cutter or flexible tubing cutter will make your job much easier by giving fast, clean cuts:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Flexible-Tube-Cutter-97642/304217583?modalType=drawer
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-1-4-in-Ratcheting-PVC-Cutter-16PL0101-1/304217581?modalType=drawer
A heat gun is very helpful for both removal and installation of hoses.  I use a cordless one, which avoids combining AC voltages with work close to water:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-18-Volt-ONE-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Heat-Gun-Tool-Only-P3150/306925921?modalType=drawer
5. You need to use hose that is reinforced so that it doesn't collapse under the vacuum of the bilge pumps.  It will be sold as bilge hose.
6. I ordered my materials online from Defender.  I wasn't able to use a local supplier, but I'm sure there are a few in San Diego.  The reason I've been using Trident hose is simply because that's what Defender sells.
7. I don't know.  I do frequent visual checks, and my family knows to report any water where there shouldn't be water, or any pumps running at unexpected times.
8. I believe there are some topics here on cleaning water heaters.  I haven't tried it.  I just replaced ours due to a slow leak in the tank.

-- 
Kevin and Elise Fox
SM404 Rascal
Charleston, SC


Re: Dolphin power 1 battery chargers

Barry Connor
 

Hi Bill,
Totally agree with you about Varta. Bought mine in Croatia 2 years ago and they are nearly finished. Absolute rubbish.  We are full time on the boat and have been very careful with our batteries. That’s why I am now changing to Lithium.
The Zoom was interesting, thank you for organizing it. But, I want 24V 100Amh not 24V 50Amh, at least 600Amh bank. Also a single BMS not individual BMS on each battery. I will get the latest Victron Quattro 24/8000 which will run the entire electrical system once hooked up to the 230v control panel. Generator and any Shore Power hook up will just be used to charge the Lithium batteries. My 175amh engine alternator will have a controller installed to ensure it does not burn out.
Currently installed Solar Panels give up to 30 Amp, looking to increase this slightly. New Solar Panels now available for the back arch now produce from top and bottom (sun reflected off water).
Oliver on “Vela Nautica” has done his boat and has designed my system and is organizing all batteries and equipment, all items should be here in Martinique by October. I am fortunate that Oliver is at the same anchorage and stuck here with me for the next few months due to Covid-19 restrictions😎.
Once we start I will post how we get this done. 

Very Best

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique 


On Aug 20, 2020, at 09:59, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Ross and Donna,

It is hard to say for sure. I had the same "non-changeable" Dolphin chargers on 2003 BeBe SM 387. In about 2007, I wanted to replace almost 4-year-old original Delco France Freedom batteries with FullRiver AGMs. I sent the FullRiver AGM charging parameters to Dolphin and asked them if I could install them. Their response was "Yes," which was obviously what I wanted to hear. I do not think it is that simple.

I believe the more exact the charging parameters match the battery, the longer the life of the batteries. Those AGMs lasted about 4 years...not bad for the price I paid. For full-time cruising, regardless of the battery you buy (except for Lithium), my advice is hope for 3 years and if you get 4 years, consider yourself lucky. The worst set of batteries I bought was the set to replace the above AGMs. They were Varta Freedom batteries bought in Greece for 3,000 euros for 13 batteries. They began to fail in 6 months and were completely gone in 12 months. Varta did nothing! The measure of the experience was not the failure, but what Varta did. Of course, they suspected my use and chargers. That was a bad assumption on their part, even though I suspect that it is a valid assumption more times than not. The chargers were fine and I never allow the bank to go lower than 70%...you were wrong Varta and I hope many read this.

Lastly, do not forget the 24-volt alternator. It charges the battery bank more than you realize and if your SM has the original, it does not have a smart regulator. Installing a smart regulator can probably do more to extend the life of your battery bank on a SM than anything else you do.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Aug 20, 2020 at 12:01 AM Ross Hickey & Donna Hammond via groups.io <southernadventurer=yahoo.co.uk@groups.io> wrote:
Thanks for sending this through Bill, it is very helpful.

The 100amp charger that we have is the one in the first picture (JPG) that you forwarded. It does not physically have a switch. Does this mean that the charger can be used for Gel without doing anything?

The 30 amp actually has a switch which was already set to Gel.

Kind regards

Ross and Donna



Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad

On Thursday, August 20, 2020, 1:08 am, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Ross and Donna 

It depends. Dolphin changed those chargers 3 times. First was no switch, then an A/B switch, then a selector switch with 10 different settings. 
Here are a few things that may help: 




CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Aug 19, 2020 at 10:21 AM Ross Hickey & Donna Hammond via groups.io <southernadventurer=yahoo.co.uk@groups.io> wrote:
Thanks Stefan,

Can you please send the attachment.

Kind regards 
Ross


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad

On Wednesday, August 19, 2020, 2:30 pm, Stefan Jeukendrup <sjeukendrup@...> wrote:

Hi Ross,

Here is the French manual for the 30/50A  charger Dolphin/ CATS POWER DESIGN  send me.
It has a switch "Gel"or "free".


Hope this helps you,

Stefan Jeukendrup
svMalaka Queen
SM2k #348 ~ Montenegro-Turkey