Date   

Re: Wet Cell Batteries

Ian Park
 

My battery knowledge is limited also. Personally I think it would be better to remove the weak battery rather than replace it. I only have 4 house batteries on my Santorin, but I had one poor one in Mindelo prior to crossing the Atlantic. I removed it ( to a grateful fisherman) and crossed with just 3. The although the notional capacity was less they charged up fully (and more quickly less amp hours). I bought 4 new ones in Martinique. Your bank will only charge up to the acceptance level of the weakest battery.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96


Re: Wet Cell Batteries

greatketch@...
 

Duane,

You didn't mention how old your batteries are, or who made them.  With any voltage setting questions I always go to the manufacturer's literature as the primary source since different batteries are... well... different.  Not all flooded batteries are exactly the same.  A half gallon of water into 12 batteries over a month doesn't sound very excessive to me.  that's less than 30 ml/cell/month.

Equalization is an important part of getting certain types of batteries (especially flooded cell batteries) to live out their full life span. This is sometimes called "desulfateing."  It can be tough to get a good equalization charge using a solar system, but it can be done by bring them up to full before the brightest part of the day with the genset.  Again, your battery maker is a good source for what an equalization charge should look like and how to know how much is enough.  If one hour is not sufficient, you can just start another cycle right away.

Some battery makers recommend monitoring SG as a way of determining when the equalization charge is complete rather than using a time based recipe.

It is generally accepted that replacing one battery out of a set is bad practice.  Having batteries of significantly different ages means they are being charged very differently, and that it bad for the whole string.  Sometimes it can't be avoided, but in general it is a bad idea.

Check the connections, make sure they are all clean and tight.  Then do a full equalization charge, as per the makers recommendation, and see if those SG values come closer together. Then think about running an equalization as part of your standard maintenance program. 

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Little Harbor, Abaco, Bahamas

---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailor63109@...> wrote :

I'm trying to understand the condition of our house battery bank.  I'm definitely not a battery expert.  We have the original Dolphin Battery Chargers (100A and 30A).  We use the 30A at the dock and the 100A with the generator.  We also have a Victron Blue Solar 100/30 with 630 watts of solar panels.  The installer set it at 28.8V Absorption and 27.6V Float (Position 2).


First:  The 12 Group 31 house batteries use about 0.5 gallons/month...is that excessive?  I'm wondering if the MPPT controller is overcharging the batteries.


Second:  How close to replacement are we?

I checked the specific gravity of all cells recently (see the attached spreadsheet).  I read that a new, fully charged cell should be at 1.265, and is discharged at a SG of 1.120.  The best cell tested at 1.265 and the weakest cell at 1.145 (corrected for temperature).  The average SG of all cells was 1.226.  This SG corresponds to 75% state of charge from what I read.  At SG of 1.190 the battery is at 50% SOC and battery #3 has three cells in that range.


Third:  Should I just replace Battery #3?


Fourth:  I've read that when the difference between cells in a battery is greater than 0.03,0 the batteries would benefit from equalization.  My Dolphin chargers are not adjustable (at least as far as I can tell).  The MPPT has an equalization function that will run for an hour.  Will that be sufficient?


Thanks for your input,

Duane 

Wanderer, SM#477


Re: Wet Cell Batteries

greatketch@...
 




---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailor63109@...> wrote :

I'm trying to understand the condition of our house battery bank.  I'm definitely not a battery expert.  We have the original Dolphin Battery Chargers (100A and 30A).  We use the 30A at the dock and the 100A with the generator.  We also have a Victron Blue Solar 100/30 with 630 watts of solar panels.  The installer set it at 28.8V Absorption and 27.6V Float (Position 2).


First:  The 12 Group 31 house batteries use about 0.5 gallons/month...is that excessive?  I'm wondering if the MPPT controller is overcharging the batteries.


Second:  How close to replacement are we?

I checked the specific gravity of all cells recently (see the attached spreadsheet).  I read that a new, fully charged cell should be at 1.265, and is discharged at a SG of 1.120.  The best cell tested at 1.265 and the weakest cell at 1.145 (corrected for temperature).  The average SG of all cells was 1.226.  This SG corresponds to 75% state of charge from what I read.  At SG of 1.190 the battery is at 50% SOC and battery #3 has three cells in that range.


Third:  Should I just replace Battery #3?


Fourth:  I've read that when the difference between cells in a battery is greater than 0.03,0 the batteries would benefit from equalization.  My Dolphin chargers are not adjustable (at least as far as I can tell).  The MPPT has an equalization function that will run for an hour.  Will that be sufficient?


Thanks for your input,

Duane 

Wanderer, SM#477


Wet Cell Batteries

Duane Siegfri
 

I'm trying to understand the condition of our house battery bank.  I'm definitely not a battery expert.  We have the original Dolphin Battery Chargers (100A and 30A).  We use the 30A at the dock and the 100A with the generator.  We also have a Victron Blue Solar 100/30 with 630 watts of solar panels.  The installer set it at 28.8V Absorption and 27.6V Float (Position 2).


First:  The 12 Group 31 house batteries use about 0.5 gallons/month...is that excessive?  I'm wondering if the MPPT controller is overcharging the batteries.


Second:  How close to replacement are we?

I checked the specific gravity of all cells recently (see the attached spreadsheet).  I read that a new, fully charged cell should be at 1.265, and is discharged at a SG of 1.120.  The best cell tested at 1.265 and the weakest cell at 1.145 (corrected for temperature).  The average SG of all cells was 1.226.  This SG corresponds to 75% state of charge from what I read.  At SG of 1.190 the battery is at 50% SOC and battery #3 has three cells in that range.


Third:  Should I just replace Battery #3?


Fourth:  I've read that when the difference between cells in a battery is greater than 0.03,0 the batteries would benefit from equalization.  My Dolphin chargers are not adjustable (at least as far as I can tell).  The MPPT has an equalization function that will run for an hour.  Will that be sufficient?


Thanks for your input,

Duane 

Wanderer, SM#477


Re: Oh no...MOLD

Duane Siegfri
 

Thanks Gary.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Wanted: Amel sharki

Hajé Weisfelt
 

Dear Marnne,

We own a Sharki in Holland. Currently lying in Port Zélande for the winter races. As of march in Kortgene (province Zeeland) and summer in Friesland. In between a couple of times towards UK. 
If you're interested you can hop on for a trip Holland UK or vv. 

Please contact me at Hajukas on Gmail. hajukas@...

Cheers, Hajé Weisfelt, Charmed II, Sharki 104.

Op 25 jan. 2018 10:47 p.m. schreef "marnnebeech@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Hi everyone,

I'm looking to buy a Sharki and wondered if anyone knew of any for sale.

I am based in London and the only one I can find in Europe currently is in Greece, so quite the sail back home.

Also any info on major things to look out for when buying a Sharki would be very much appreciated.

Cheers,

Marnne


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: How to remove freezer compressor [1 Attachment]

ya_fohi
 

Nelson,

We are in Martinique. Do yuu have any advice on the problem?

Cheers,
Paul


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Diameter Reling

Peter Jaeger
 

Thank you Bill


Gesendet von Yahoo Mail für iPad

Am Samstag, Januar 27, 2018, 21:27 schrieb greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] :

 

25mm


Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Sandy Point, Great Abaco, Bahamas


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main furler gearbox

Patrick McAneny
 

Duanne, Its not hard to find ways of spending money on a boat ,is it. I hope I can salvage and work with what I have . Mine will probably be as bad as yours as my boat is a 94 , probably older than yours. The bearings have to be bad , the gearbox would not turn even with a winch handle , until I worked it back and forth for a couple of minutes and finally got it moving.
Thanks Again,
Pat SM #123

-----Original Message-----
From: sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Mon, Jan 29, 2018 2:40 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main furler gearbox

 
Pat,

I didn't replace any parts, I ended up ordering a new one (almost $1,000).  The drive shaft was so badly pitted at the upper seal and the upper bearing that the Machine Shop advised turning it down to smooth it out wouldn't be a good idea.  Also, the housing surface the upper bearing race seated against was badly pitted.  

You'll get the black piece out, just a matter of time.  Easy for me to say!  <;-)

You might try to apply some heat to the aluminum (wasn't the black piece plastic?).

Duane






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main furler gearbox

Duane Siegfri
 

Pat,

I didn't replace any parts, I ended up ordering a new one (almost $1,000).  The drive shaft was so badly pitted at the upper seal and the upper bearing that the Machine Shop advised turning it down to smooth it out wouldn't be a good idea.  Also, the housing surface the upper bearing race seated against was badly pitted.  

You'll get the black piece out, just a matter of time.  Easy for me to say!  <;-)

You might try to apply some heat to the aluminum (wasn't the black piece plastic?).

Duane






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main furler gearbox

Patrick McAneny
 

Duane, I followed what you said in the photo section and tapped the hell out of it. I used a regular hammer and left dings in the aluminum housing , I was afraid to hit the black piece too hard . I will try it with a rubber mallet and put it in a vice again and hit it . I will soak it in some PB Blaster first. Thanks for the suggestions. I had trouble finding the seals etc. on Motion Industries website , I spoke with them in Baltimore and they said I could  ship the parts to them to match , but I was wondering if you had to part #s to what you bought. 
Thanks Again,
Pat SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Mon, Jan 29, 2018 12:03 pm
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main furler gearbox

 
Pat,

I replied earlier but don't see it now, so excuse me if both show up.

I got mine out by tapping with a rubber mallet around the perimeter of the black piece with the body of the furler in a vise.  After it was "broken free" of the accumulated salt and crud it came out easily.  You might try a solvent like PB Blaster, or just soak it in freshwater to dissolve the salt first.  A combination of tapping and twisting (with a strap wrench) might be successful.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: Main furler gearbox

Duane Siegfri
 

Pat,

I replied earlier but don't see it now, so excuse me if both show up.

I got mine out by tapping with a rubber mallet around the perimeter of the black piece with the body of the furler in a vise.  After it was "broken free" of the accumulated salt and crud it came out easily.  You might try a solvent like PB Blaster, or just soak it in freshwater to dissolve the salt first.  A combination of tapping and twisting (with a strap wrench) might be successful.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: How to remove freezer compressor [1 Attachment]

circumnavigators2 <circumnavigators2@...>
 

Good morning Sharon where are you located? We specialize on Amel sailboats in Fort Lauderdale, FL area. Feel free to contact us.

Thanks.

Nelson Rodriguez 

Circumnavigators II Yacht Services, LLC
Email: circumnavigators2@... 
Cell: 954.610.0009



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

-------- Original message --------
From: "sharongbrown@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: 1/29/18 09:03 (GMT-05:00)
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: How to remove freezer compressor [1 Attachment]

 

The image I pasted into the first post does not appear! I have attached it.


Re: How to remove freezer compressor

ya_fohi
 

The image I pasted into the first post does not appear! I have attached it.


How to remove freezer compressor

ya_fohi
 

Hello,
I need to remove the freezer compressor from the freezer in the galley of an Amel 54. The compressor is underneath the unit and access is very limited and there is no obvious way to open it up. Please could somebody advise? See image below:







Thanks,
Paul
Ya Fohi, Amel 54 #98


Re: SM2K

Philippe Morel
 

Hi Steve , we are the happy owner of BELAVITA , SM 2000 hull number n° 238 . We are in the Caribbean Sea , currently in Colombia , sailing North ( Caymans ) and we are looking to sell our boat by end of this year . 
BELAVITA , is an iconic boat as she have been the very last boat owned by mister Amel founders of the shipyard , use as commercial show boat from launching in 1999 to 2005 , she is the very first SM 2 K full specs launched . Lightly used from 2005 to 2010 , we owned her and sail from La Rochelle to Greece , and finally to Caraibes . 
Well maintened , and equipped , it could be a very good opportunity for somebody who want an SM fitted to his dream . 
Our mail : belavitasm2000@...

Regards
Philippe  


Re: Main furler gearbox

Duane Siegfri
 

I was able to get it out by tapping around the exterior of the black winch socket with a rubber mallet (you may have to tap pretty agressively).  The idea being to "tip" it progressively.  It took a while.  If it seems really stuck try some PB Blaster to dissolve any corrosion.  

I'm surprised you couldn't twist the black piece when you had it in a vice.  Did you try a pipe wrench, or a strap wrench?  You might try a combination of PB Blaster the night before, then tapping to break it free of some of the corrosion and twisting with a strap wrench.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Perkins M 4 .154 engine repairs, rescheduling trip

James Alton
 

Christian Alby,

I am glad to hear that old faithful is still running and that you appear to have found a replacement oil pump.

According to the serial number of my engine, (GA 10002 J 002298 N) it was produced in Japan. The “J” at the center of my S/N designates the engine as having been produced in Japan and a “U” would indicate UK) Was your engine also produced in Japan? Apparently most of the Perkins 4.154’s were built in Japan and the rest were built in the UK. I found one statement that the parts for the Japan and the UK version were not interchangeable which appears to make replacement parts more difficult to source so I am still trying to get to the bottom of this. The part number that you have for the replacement oil pump begins with “NA” which apparently refers to a Perkins meeting some North American standards relating to noise and emissions. I am working on trying to get a list of part numbers from Perkins for my engine based on the serial number.

In my research I also noted that while the full throttle oil pressure specification is 30 to 60 PSI or about 2-4 bar, that the pressure relief valve is apparently supposed to open at 43 psi or about 3 bar. So it would seem that 3 bar or 43 psi would be considered the normal high pressure.

Best of luck and let me know if the oil pump that you located works out for you. I have not received any response from Prevalent on the two pumps that I added to my cart and went through the checkout process.

James
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Jan 28, 2018, at 7:36 AM, christian alby calbyy@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi there James

The P/N shown on the perkins parts catalog is NA900087.
The pump itself did not have legible markings, described as
Rotor pump (inner 4 rotors, outer 5 rotors)
Pressure 2.1 to 4.2 kgf/cm2
Shaft OD 15.82 mm
No other information

I seem to have completed one purchase order via ezone-saint lucia. Waiting for confirmationI am now running engine charging batteries, after oil change & additive mixed, & results are identical to previous.
Runs at 1200 rpm at 1,8 bars
Idle at 700 at 1,2 bars
This is after 4 hours running non stop (water temp 70°)
No Volvo for me yet, will go back sailing & keep on runing old faithful.

Fair wind
Christian alby - Desirade VIII - Maramu 116 -le Marin Martinique



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Le jeu., janv. 25, 2018 à 22:24, James Alton lokiyawl2@... <mailto:lokiyawl2@...> [amelyachtowners]
<amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners@...>> a écrit :

Christian Alby,


Do you know the exact P/N for the original oil pump in your Perkins engine?

Ebay shows that the pump listed by tacomadiesel 1969 was sold Jan. 24th at 10:41 AM for $60 USD.

James

SV Sueño
Maramu #220



On Jan 25, 2018, at 11:53 AM, christian alby calbyy@... <mailto:calbyy@...> [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners@...>> wrote:

Hi there James,

Pump shown on ebay from tacomadiesel 1969 is similar to previous pumps P/N 41314114.
Worth a try if not sold already.
I am still trying the Prevalent supply via www.getezone-saint lucia; new to the game there I am still chasing them to know if transaction is valid or missing some hidden step.
Will let you know
Fair winds
Christian alby - Desirade VIII - Maramu 116 - le Marin Martinique

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Le jeu., janv.. 25, 2018 à 12:53, James Alton lokiyawl2@... <mailto:lokiyawl2@...> [amelyachtowners]
<amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners@...>> a écrit :

Christian Alby,


This link should show you the details and a photo of the oil pump that sold yesterday on Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Perkins-Oil-Pump-/162047206348?epid=1666806067&hash=item25bac423cc%3Ag%3AERQAAOSwPc9W1hX7&nma=true&si=W3eCbTcEMLa7SbrtDwkjy5OzDVc%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 If this link does not work let me know. Please let me know if the photo looks like the correct pump to you. The seller had a 100% rating so I believe that this was a valid transaction and a lucky find, sorry that we missed it.

I have not heard anything back from Prevalent from my email inquiries and my attempt to purchase the two pumps. Checking into the website, though the company checks out through Google transparency, I think that it is very unlikely that they have any actual pumps in stock ever. If I hear back otherwise I will attempt to complete the purchase for two pumps. I will set up an alert on Ebay in case any additional used or new pumps show up. It would be helpful if you can help insure that the part #41314114 is indeed the correct pump if at all possible.

Best,

James
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Jan 24, 2018, at 12:59 PM, James Alton lokiyawl2@... <mailto:lokiyawl2@...> [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners@...>> wrote:

Christian Alby,


I just saw your email. The pump on Ebay has been sold, bad timing there. I have placed an order for two pumps thru Prevalent but have not yet received a confirmation either in my browser or via email so not sure yet of what is wrong. No need to pay for my pump, but thank you for that. I just hope that this company actually has stock and that these are the correct pumps for our engines. I will update you when I have more information.

Best,

James
Maramu #220

On Jan 24, 2018, at 11:30 AM, christian alby calbyy@... <mailto:calbyy@...> [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners@...>> wrote:


hi there James

tried the eBay code but Zero results reply .... lost
tried purchase from Prévalent-first but cannot complete registration ...
tried to purchase via getezone site ... no reply yet

As I do not want to lose one of those pumps I would ask you to purchase both & sell back one to me, I will pay for both - bank transfer to your account - and arrange with you for shipment of one to me in Martinique. Soon as mounted I will confirm if OK & then you can reimburse the one you chose.

Your help is really appreciated there

fair winds

christian alby - Désirade VIII - Maramu 116 - now in Le Marin Martinique



‎23‎ ‎janvier‎ ‎2018‎ ‎17‎:‎00‎:‎25‎ ‎-04, James Alton lokiyawl2@... <mailto:lokiyawl2@...> [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners@...>> a écrit :



Christian Alby,


Can you verify if the correct Perkins part number for the oil pump you need is #41314114? If so then I may have found two sources for new surplus oil pumps. One is located on the website at: https://www.prevalent-first.top/perkins-4-154-oil-pump-41314114-cf-bedford-marine-engine-p-5822.html. I am thinking ordering one for myself as a spare if this information looks correct to you..

The other pump is located on Ebay, item #162047206348. The Ebay ad shows part #41314114 and says that this pump fits the 4.154.

Fingers crossed that this helps.. I also have some inquiries in for a used pump.

Best,

James
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

162047206348

On Jan 23, 2018, at 3:06 PM, christian alby calbyy@... <mailto:calbyy@...> [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners@...>> wrote:

James

Thanks for assistance
I do not remember the way the gear is fixed but will try to see from pictures taken.
The non-marine version -perkins made, not the kubota look alike - has the same oil pump.
Fair wind
Christian alby - Desirade VIII - Maramu 116 - now in le Marin Martinique


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Le mar., janv. 23, 2018 à 15:33, James Alton lokiyawl2@... <mailto:lokiyawl2@...> [amelyachtowners]
<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups..com <mailto:amelyachtowners@...>> a écrit :

Christian Alby,


I have been keeping my eye out for a replacement pump for you but so far no luck.. I think that you are correct that the worn pump is at least part of what is causing the lower than normal oil pressure.. The sudden drop of oil pressure to 0 when you reach 2000 RPM is very strange and I have been pondering a possible cause. It makes me think that somehow the pump gear has sopped stopped turning. Did you notice if any of the gears on your oil pump are pinned to the shaft? I have seen some oil pumps secured with pins but am not sure about the Perkins 4..154, hence this is just an educated guess. If one of these pins were to shear from the engine runaway and lack of lubrication which you said occurred when the engine failed, you might still have enough friction present to drive the pump gear at low engine speeds but it could then begin to slip. Replacement of that pin (if it exists) might solve the problem with the sudden loss of oil pressure. Please let me know if you someday figure out what is the actual cause of this sudden loss of oil pressure. I will post here if I am able to find another pump. Can you tell me from your research if the non-marine version of the 4-154 has the same oil pump as your engine?

James
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Jan 23, 2018, at 8:15 AM, christian alby calbyy@... <mailto:calbyy@...> [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners@...>> wrote:

Miles,

The voice of Volvo D2/55 la 3 fold
Available immediatly in Martinique.
Do not want a turbo on my marine engine, useless & more prone to failures.
Recent model , widely spread, will find parts for a while.

Against volvo
Tied up with agents for service & parts.
Price ...

I still might give up on replacement here in martinique & keep on looking for an oil pump to do repairs, then sail to better deal location.

Note : old faithful M 4.154 is still reliable & so easy to run & maintain. Regrets

Christian alby - Desirade VIII - Maramu 116 - now in le Marin Martinique.





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Le mar., janv. 23, 2018 à 8:37, smiles bernard smilesbernard@... <mailto:smilesbernard@...> [amelyachtowners]
<amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners@...>> a écrit :

Hi there Christian

As a fellow maramu owner with an older engine I’d be interested in your thoughts about the Volvo D2/55 as a replacement vs other alternatives..

Size, simplicity, cost etc? What led you to choose the Volvo?

Many thanks and best wishes

Miles

Sent from my iPhone

On 21 Jan 2018, at 14:29, christian alby calbyy@... <mailto:calbyy@...> [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners@...>> wrote:



Thanks for concern & assistance Bill
guess all the advice & analysis of fault helped me come to the conclusion (already uderstood & applied before) that there is no shortcut when repairing engines or sailing boats.
Oil pump is at fault - 100% sure
camshaft is unllikely eve though showing some wear on,poppets.

I am now in Le Marin, waiting for a firm quote on one Volvo D2/55 available for fit up ... on solution even though unplanned this year;
I am also looking for one Perkins Oil pump ..... could replace in situ at no great cost & would postpone replacement by new engine to 2019
or back to Europ in April & do a change over of engines with Perkins or else .... Selling back my 'Old Faithful'

fair winds
chrsitian alby - Désirade VIII - Maramu 116 - Le Marin Martinique



Le ‎dimanche‎ ‎31‎ ‎décembre‎ ‎2017‎ ‎12‎:‎53‎:‎11‎ ‎-04, greatketch@... <mailto:greatketch@...> [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups..com <mailto:amelyachtowners@...>> a écrit :





Christian,

I am afraid I have no good ideas that match your symptoms! Since you have both the gauge and alarm reporting low pressure, I have to assume it is real and not a problem with the measurement.

Sometimes low oil level can cause low pressure at high rpm as the pump sucks so much oil out of the crankcase it sucks air, but you checked that.

A stuck open pressure relief valve that resets itself when the engine shuts down could be an an issue, but that seems unlikely.

Maybe someone else has an idea or two... in any event do let us know what the solution turns out to be!

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Key West, FL



---In amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners@...>, <calbyy@....> wrote :

Here is

Yes - oil pressure gauge and l'os pressure alarme on
When oil pressure below 1 bar, alarme nées
Oil pressure drops quickly at 2000 rpm
Oil pressure remains stable when low or normal
Oil pressure remains low when reducing speed from 2000

No loss of oil single de started.
Ran 1hour maneuvring in port at 1300 rpm at 2 bars, went To idle after 1 hour at 700 rpm with 1.1 bar oil pressure.
Did not risk acceleration.

Thks for assiste

Christian alby - Desirade VIII - Maramu 116 - now in Mindelo Carbo Verde



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Le dim., déc. 31, 2017 à 14:58, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups..com <mailto:amelyachtowners@...>> a écrit :

Losing oil pressure at high RPM and having it come back at low RPM is a bit of a puzzle to me. There are ways it can happen, but they are a bit exotic


Do you have an oil pressure gauge AND an low oil pressure alarm?
If so, is the gauge showing low pressure AND you get an alarm?
Does the oil pressure drop quickly at 2000RPM or does it drift down slowly?
Is it stable, or does it bounce around?
Does it come back quickly when you reduce the RPM, or does it stay low?





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Inability To Remove Port Genoa Winch Due Winch Drawing 150 Amps

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Steve,

on my 2000 SM the winch does not need to be removed from the deck and I would be startled if that was the case. I have serviced winches on much older boats in the same manner.

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

Mangonui New Zealand 

On 29 January 2018 at 11:34 "steve_bode@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Hi, Bill.


I removed the drive unit used on my lewmar 58s from underside of the deck. On my project, the drive unit had been properly lubricated when originally assembled and no corrosion had formed on the drive shaft. Therefrore, the drive unit dropped off the shaft fairly easily.


I have Lewmar 58's on my '94 SM. I decided to service them as part of servicing all 11 winches on my newly purchased (Dec, '17) Amel. I had serious problems getting the winces off, but most of that was due to a difference between the Lewmar guide (Lewmar OCEAN & EVO® Electric/Hydraulic Winches B2303 Issue 9) and what I found to be the case for my winches. To be specific, the manual states that the Drive base should be mounted to the deck with 5 bolts and that the winch center stem should be bolted to the BASE and not the deck. To service the winch, I should have been able to remove the center stem without removing the drive base. That was not the case. On my winches, there were five bolts that ran through both the center core AND straight through the base. Therefore, the only way to service the winch was to remove them from the deck. To do so, I had to (1) remove the nuts from the mounting bolts from underneath the deck, (2) remove the bolts that hold the drive unit to the drive base flange. (3) Then the drive unit could be removed from the drive shaft. (4) five allen bolts needed to be removed from the drive base flange so that the drive base could be pried from the deck. Finally the center stem must be pried apart from the Drive base, which, after 20 years it was bonded to by the corrosion of the dissimilar metals of the center stem (bronze) and the drive base (aluminum).


Anyone planning to service their Lewmar 58 mains should be aware that they will need to remove the winches from the deck in order to do so. This is a big project. I don't know when Lewmar changed the design to separate and offset the bolt holes that bolt the base to the deck from the bolt holes that bolt the center stem to the drive base, but on my '94 they were not. Does any one out there know when the design was changed?


See photos I uploaded to album "Lewmar 58ST electric winch service"


Kind Regards,

Steve Bode

SV Intention

Almerimar, Spain


 


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Quick question on desalator membrane replacement

Porter McRoberts
 

Thanks Thomas. Appreciated. 
Porter


On Jan 28, 2018, at 11:14 AM, SV Garulfo svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Porter,

As far as I can see from the pictures we took last year during the membrane replacement, the VShaped o-ring on the membrane is located on the red end of the sleeve (as you have it in the video).
Hope that helps,

Thomas
GARULFO,
Amel 54 #122
st Anne, Martinique 



On Sat, 27 Jan 2018 at 17:29, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Porter,

 

Oops.. I forgot this part but it look like you already have the ends off.

 

Disconnect the high pressure hoses and separate the 2 pressure vessels. Be very careful not to damage - twist, or enlarge the holes for the interconnector between the 2 pressure vessels ( at the end opposite the HP hoses). Use water from the pressure water system - a 1/2 hose will clamp over the SS flare fitting. Cover the hole in the end plug with a thumb - turn on the water - once the air is out, the end plugs will come out easily - apply a little resistance to balance the 2 ends so that both ends get started out.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Martinique

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2018 4:37 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Quick question on desalator membrane replacement

 

 

If someone who has any experience changing membranes could watch this video and give me any quick advice I would be hugely appreciative



The question surrounds which end of the membrane (ie the O ring end on the membrane) corresponds to regarding the fitting end in the Kevlar sleeve and especially to the tube fitting end. The hydrolic end or the Bobbin end?
Very much appreciated!!!!

Porter McRoberts
Ibis 
Amel 54-152

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2OJEI0Z__bc


Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 
Www.fouribis.com

Excuse the errors.  

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