Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Colour code gelcoat hull SM 2K

Peter Jaeger
 

So the "white" one is Ivoire


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Am Dienstag, Januar 23, 2018, 08:46 schrieb Peter Jaeger mallamok@... [amelyachtowners] :

 

Hi Willem

I asked Maud this question last September, that was the answer

Most of the color codes for the Gelcoat of the Super do not exist as they are special and unique. 

However we have 2 RAL numbers that should be of help:

Rouge liston: RAL 3003

Ivoire: RAL 1013

You could buy both Gelcoats at Amel in La Rochelle.

Hope that helps

Peter


Wilson, SM003, La Rochelle



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Am Montag, Januar 22, 2018, 16:44 schrieb kavanga@... [amelyachtowners] :

 

Is there a SM 2K owner knowing the colour code of the standard white gelcoat used on the hull?


Willem Kroes

SM2K #351 Kavanga



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Colour code gelcoat hull SM 2K

Peter Jaeger
 

Hi Willem
I asked Maud this question last September, that was the answer

Most of the color codes for the Gelcoat of the Super do not exist as they are special and unique. 

However we have 2 RAL numbers that should be of help:

Rouge liston: RAL 3003

Ivoire: RAL 1013

You could buy both Gelcoats at Amel in La Rochelle.

Hope that helps

Peter


Wilson, SM003, La Rochelle



Gesendet von Yahoo Mail für iPad

Am Montag, Januar 22, 2018, 16:44 schrieb kavanga@... [amelyachtowners] :

 

Is there a SM 2K owner knowing the colour code of the standard white gelcoat used on the hull?


Willem Kroes

SM2K #351 Kavanga



Colour code gelcoat hull SM 2K

Willem Kroes
 

Is there a SM 2K owner knowing the colour code of the standard white gelcoat used on the hull?


Willem Kroes

SM2K #351 Kavanga



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hookah System

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Fair enough, didn't realise the hookah was so cheap.
Regards
Danny

Sent from my Vodafone Smart

On 22 Jan 2018 14:15, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Danny, I don't have a compressor to fill tanks.  The home-brewed hookah was $125 and I have an air compressor for other uses.  Taking a tank ashore to refill doesn't appeal to me.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM 243

 

Hi, I can't help but feel you guys make life difficult and expensive for yourselves. I have  40 foot hose on my dive  bottle I use for that.
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
Mangonui
New Zealand



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hookah System

karkauai
 

Hi Danny, I don't have a compressor to fill tanks.  The home-brewed hookah was $125 and I have an air compressor for other uses.  Taking a tank ashore to refill doesn't appeal to me.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM 243

 

Hi, I can't help but feel you guys make life difficult and expensive for yourselves. I have  40 foot hose on my dive  bottle I use for that.
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
Mangonui
New Zealand



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hookah System

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi, I can't help but feel you guys make life difficult and expensive for yourselves. I have  40 foot hose on my dive  bottle I use for that.
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
Mangonui
New Zealand

Sent from my Vodafone Smart

On 21 Jan 2018 12:01, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Way to go, Kent!  I trust you referred to David Lynn's (formerly s/v Nine of Cups) article in the October 2012 Ocean Navigator on doing this. Anybody interested should google that article. I'm assembling one now.


The only thing you didn't mention that David included is an air filter/water separator in the regulator supply line - trust you did put it in. 

BTW, what is the CFM rating of your compressor and how many gallons is the tank?

Cheers, Craig - SN#68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote :

I changed the Subject line...

I bought an oil-less compressor from HarborFreight (pan style, 100psi) for $60 on sale.  With a 50ft hose and used regulator for another $75, I have a hookah system for cleaning the bottom, unfouling the prop, and changing zincs, as well as compressed air for lots of other things.  I run it off of my 1800W 24-110AC inverter.

Kent
S/V Kristy


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Mast prebend Amel 54

Porter McRoberts
 

Agree with you 100% Nick
Re the slight prebend and lack of pumping both. 
Just FYI as a point of confirmation for you
I also do have the reinforced mast

Porter
Ibis
54-152

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Jan 21, 2018, at 7:22 AM, kwzy6vgkpvtfohjddjsrotobzwf2pjeafjwalhur@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello Olivier,


Thank you for that information. I will introduce a very slight prebend whilst at anchor, then go and test it as you suggest. 

Whilst on the subject of the mast and rigging. I have not been using the running backstays much as I have been reaching up and down the islands in the West Indies.

 However I will be sailing back to Europe this May and will most likely have a good thrash to windward, at least for the first few days, and will use the runners accordingly. However I feel that they are hardly necessary in all but rough conditions to windward, as the spreaders are swept aft. Thus the lower spreader and the baby stay triangulate and the upper spreader and the staysail stay also triangulate. Up to now I have seen very little or no pumping of the mast, even when sailing upwind in 15-20 knots true wind.

Would you agree with that approach?

Kind regards

Nick


Re: Re :[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Perkins M 4 .154 engine repairs, rescheduling trip

christian alby <calbyy@...>
 

Thanks for concern & assistance Bill
guess all the advice & analysis of fault helped me come to the conclusion (already uderstood & applied before) that there is no shortcut when repairing engines or sailing boats. 
Oil pump is at fault - 100% sure
camshaft is unllikely eve though showing some wear on,poppets.

I am now in Le Marin, waiting for a firm quote on one Volvo D2/55 available for fit up ... on solution even though unplanned this year;
I am also looking for one Perkins Oil pump ... could replace in situ at no great cost & would postpone replacement by new engine to 2019 
or back to Europ in April & do a change over of engines with Perkins or else ... Selling back my 'Old Faithful'

fair winds 
chrsitian alby - Désirade VIII - Maramu 116 - Le Marin Martinique



Le ‎dimanche‎ ‎31‎ ‎décembre‎ ‎2017‎ ‎12‎:‎53‎:‎11‎ ‎-04, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] a écrit :


 


Christian,

I am afraid I have no good ideas that match your symptoms!  Since you have both the gauge and alarm reporting low pressure, I have to assume it is real and not a problem with the measurement.

Sometimes low oil level can cause low pressure at high rpm as the pump sucks so much oil out of the crankcase it sucks air, but you checked that.

A stuck open pressure relief valve that resets itself when the engine shuts down could be an an issue, but that seems unlikely.

Maybe someone else has an idea or two...  in any event do let us know what the solution turns out to be!

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Key West, FL



---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Here is

Yes - oil pressure gauge and l'os pressure alarme on
When oil pressure below  1 bar, alarme nées
Oil pressure drops quickly at 2000 rpm
Oil pressure remains stable when low or normal
Oil pressure remains low when reducing speed from 2000 

No loss of oil single de started.  
Ran 1hour maneuvring in port at 1300 rpm at 2 bars, went To idle after 1 hour at 700 rpm with 1.1 bar oil pressure.
Did  not  risk acceleration. 

Thks for assiste

Christian alby - Desirade VIII - Maramu 116 - now in Mindelo Carbo Verde




Le dim., déc. 31, 2017 à 14:58, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
a écrit :
 

Losing oil pressure at high RPM and having it come back at low RPM is a bit of a puzzle to me.  There are ways it can happen, but they are a bit exotic


Do you have an oil pressure gauge AND an low oil pressure alarm?  
If so, is the gauge showing low pressure AND you get an alarm?  
Does the oil pressure drop quickly at 2000RPM or does it drift down slowly?  
Is it stable, or does it bounce around?
Does it come back quickly when you reduce the RPM, or does it stay low?




Re: Re :[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Perkins M 4 .154 engine repairs, rescheduling trip

christian alby <calbyy@...>
 

Hi there
crankshaft was checked in worrkshop & found to be within 'as new' tolérances; no wear to top part.
what was showing wear is
camshaft & poppets (heavily marked) but mounted back as the were as I could not find replacement. 
Oil pump, inner parts were severely scored; again nio replacement available so mounted old pump back on engine.

now in Le Marin; found one Volvlo D2/55 available - waiting for quote.
Searching for oïl pump for Perkins as an alternative solution ... would do replacement in situ (love oïl)
or return to Europe in April to do all teh the remaining work which was planned for next year ... before reverting on my trail to South Atlantic.

I do love this boat; will keep her in shape so as she can give back in pleasure of sailing.

Fair winds

christian alby - Désirade VIII - Maramu 116 - Le Marin Martinique




Le ‎dimanche‎ ‎31‎ ‎décembre‎ ‎2017‎ ‎14‎:‎17‎:‎48‎ ‎-04, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] a écrit :


 

I think Joel was right on with his diagnosis:

 

 

More than likely your problem is the crankshaft bearings and the connecting rod bearings clearances are too large. As the engine warms the expansion of components causes the clearances to increase even more and hence the oil pressure to go down.

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Martinique

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2017 12:53 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: Re :[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Perkins M 4 .154 engine repairs, rescheduling trip

 

 

 

Christian,

 

I am afraid I have no good ideas that match your symptoms!  Since you have both the gauge and alarm reporting low pressure, I have to assume it is real and not a problem with the measurement.

 

Sometimes low oil level can cause low pressure at high rpm as the pump sucks so much oil out of the crankcase it sucks air, but you checked that.

 

A stuck open pressure relief valve that resets itself when the engine shuts down could be an an issue, but that seems unlikely.

 

Maybe someone else has an idea or two...  in any event do let us know what the solution turns out to be!

 

Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Key West, FL

 



---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Here is

 

Yes - oil pressure gauge and l'os pressure alarme on

When oil pressure below  1 bar, alarme nées

Oil pressure drops quickly at 2000 rpm

Oil pressure remains stable when low or normal

Oil pressure remains low when reducing speed from 2000 

 

No loss of oil single de started.  

Ran 1hour maneuvring in port at 1300 rpm at 2 bars, went To idle after 1 hour at 700 rpm with 1.1 bar oil pressure.

Did  not  risk acceleration. 

 

Thks for assiste

 

Christian alby - Desirade VIII - Maramu 116 - now in Mindelo Carbo Verde

 

 

 

 

Le dim., déc. 31, 2017 à 14:58, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]

a écrit :

 

Losing oil pressure at high RPM and having it come back at low RPM is a bit of a puzzle to me.  There are ways it can happen, but they are a bit exotic

 

Do you have an oil pressure gauge AND an low oil pressure alarm?  

If so, is the gauge showing low pressure AND you get an alarm?  

Does the oil pressure drop quickly at 2000RPM or does it drift down slowly?  

Is it stable, or does it bounce around?

Does it come back quickly when you reduce the RPM, or does it stay low?

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Perkins M 4.154 engine repairs, rescheduling trip

christian alby <calbyy@...>
 

hi there james
thanks for detailed analysis - Oil pump failure is definetly the problem now;
mounted the damaged one back on engine as I could not find one before we did the rebuild;
I start searching already for a replacement whilst sailing the islands in the Caribean (could be worse).
Engine runs ok to charge batteries, maneuver in port, drop & recover Anchor & even supporting speed at low revs'.

alternatives are now to replace engine by new Volvo D2/55 available in Le Marin ... at a cost which was not planned until 2019
or finding a replacement oïl pump & opening up engine in situ & replacing by new or refurbished pump ... testing & making the most of my old M 4.154
waiting for quotes & offers ...

christian alby - Désirade VIII - maramu 116 - in Le Marin Martinique



Le ‎lundi‎ ‎1‎ ‎janvier‎ ‎2018‎ ‎10‎:‎41‎:‎09‎ ‎-04, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] a écrit :


 

Christian Alby,


   I have never seen a problem where the oil pressure on an engine would drop as engine RPM was increased.  The only explanation that I can think of is a mechanical failure of the oil pump.  As I recall from your previous posts:

1.  Your engine experienced significant dilution of the engine oil with diesel fuel followed by at least two runaways which likely exceeded the maximum RPM rating of the engine.

2.  Apparently due to the loss of lubrication, the oil pump was badly scored.

  My guess is that due to the lack of lubrication,  high engine speed (and perhaps some galling of the oil pump which lead to the  scoring the oil pump) that something in the drive for the oil pump has mostly failed.  Perhaps the gears driving the oil pump are beginning to slip at 2000 RPM now because either the gears or the bearings that should hold the correct clearances have been damaged.  In other words the gears could be only partially engaged due to wear of the gear or the bearings and as the oil pressure rises with engine speed, you reach a point where they begin to slip, causing a rapid drop in oil pressure.  Lowering the engine RPM and oil pressure might be allowing the pump to resume turning as the load on the pump drops and the gears partially reengage.  Certainly unless this problem is corrected, your new engine will not last long.   It is of course impossible to know for sure what the problem is but given that the oil pump is essentially a positive displacement pump which should pump more oil with increasing RPM,  this is the only scenario that I can think of to cause the symptoms that you described.

Best of luck and Happy New Year,

James
SV Sueño,  Maramu #220
 
On Dec 31, 2017, at 11:38 AM, christian alby calbyy@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Here is


Yes - oil pressure gauge and l'os pressure alarme on
When oil pressure below  1 bar, alarme nées
Oil pressure drops quickly at 2000 rpm
Oil pressure remains stable when low or normal
Oil pressure remains low when reducing speed from 2000 

No loss of oil single de started.  
Ran 1hour maneuvring in port at 1300 rpm at 2 bars, went To idle after 1 hour at 700 rpm with 1.1 bar oil pressure.
Did  not  risk acceleration. 

Thks for assiste

Christian alby - Desirade VIII - Maramu 116 - now in Mindelo Carbo Verde




Le dim., déc.. 31, 2017 à 14:58, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
<amelyachtowners@...> a écrit :
 

Losing oil pressure at high RPM and having it come back at low RPM is a bit of a puzzle to me.  There are ways it can happen, but they are a bit exotic


Do you have an oil pressure gauge AND an low oil pressure alarm?  
If so, is the gauge showing low pressure AND you get an alarm?  
Does the oil pressure drop quickly at 2000RPM or does it drift down slowly?  
Is it stable, or does it bounce around?
Does it come back quickly when you reduce the RPM, or does it stay low?






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Perkins M 4.154 engine repairs, rescheduling trip

christian alby <calbyy@...>
 

hi there 
absolutly right
oïl pump is gone - we found it badly scored on inner body & rotating part; as I could not find a replacement I fitted it again in 'as is' condition. 
therefore engine runs smoothly & maintains proper oïl pressure below 1500 rpm (even running for 4 hours in a row); Oil pressure drops fast when going over 1500 rpm.
We did arrive in Le marin on the 16/01 & are currently discussing with local workshop to replace engine by brand new Volvo D2/55 (no turbo).
Alternative being to go back to home port in France by early April & find a new or refurbished oïl pump & replace (easy job apparently, rigging a beam in cockpit to lift top part of engine);
Still checking whilst enjoying the sights in Martinique.
fair trade winds to you

christian alby - Désirade VIIII - Maramu 116 - in Le Marin Martinique




Le ‎lundi‎ ‎1‎ ‎janvier‎ ‎2018‎ ‎20‎:‎45‎:‎16‎ ‎-04, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] a écrit :


 

Hi,

If you are planning to cross to Martinique, I would switch to straight 40 weight oil.

When I first received Kimberlite, The factory Yanmar chief mechanic came to replace the turbo. He said to use only straight 40 weight unless you are heading to somewhere very cold.

 

I think the 40 weight might help the oil pressure a little. However , there is something going on in the bottom end of your engine, either too much tolerance in the main bearings, or a defective oil pump.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2018 9:41 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Perkins M 4.154 engine repairs, rescheduling trip

 

 

Christian Alby,

 

   I have never seen a problem where the oil pressure on an engine would drop as engine RPM was increased.  The only explanation that I can think of is a mechanical failure of the oil pump.  As I recall from your previous posts:

 

1.  Your engine experienced significant dilution of the engine oil with diesel fuel followed by at least two runaways which likely exceeded the maximum RPM rating of the engine.

 

2.  Apparently due to the loss of lubrication, the oil pump was badly scored.

 

  My guess is that due to the lack of lubrication,  high engine speed (and perhaps some galling of the oil pump which lead to the  scoring the oil pump) that something in the drive for the oil pump has mostly failed.  Perhaps the gears driving the oil pump are beginning to slip at 2000 RPM now because either the gears or the bearings that should hold the correct clearances have been damaged.  In other words the gears could be only partially engaged due to wear of the gear or the bearings and as the oil pressure rises with engine speed, you reach a point where they begin to slip, causing a rapid drop in oil pressure.  Lowering the engine RPM and oil pressure might be allowing the pump to resume turning as the load on the pump drops and the gears partially reengage.  Certainly unless this problem is corrected, your new engine will not last long.   It is of course impossible to know for sure what the problem is but given that the oil pump is essentially a positive displacement pump which should pump more oil with increasing RPM,  this is the only scenario that I can think of to cause the symptoms that you described.

 

Best of luck and Happy New Year,

 

James

SV Sueño,  Maramu #220

 

On Dec 31, 2017, at 11:38 AM, christian alby calbyy@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Here is

 

Yes - oil pressure gauge and l'os pressure alarme on

When oil pressure below  1 bar, alarme nées

Oil pressure drops quickly at 2000 rpm

Oil pressure remains stable when low or normal

Oil pressure remains low when reducing speed from 2000 

 

No loss of oil single de started.  

Ran 1hour maneuvring in port at 1300 rpm at 2 bars, went To idle after 1 hour at 700 rpm with 1.1 bar oil pressure.

Did  not  risk acceleration. 

 

Thks for assiste

 

Christian alby - Desirade VIII - Maramu 116 - now in Mindelo Carbo Verde

 

 

 

 

Le dim., déc.. 31, 2017 à 14:58, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]

<amelyachtowners@...> a écrit :

 

Losing oil pressure at high RPM and having it come back at low RPM is a bit of a puzzle to me.  There are ways it can happen, but they are a bit exotic

 

Do you have an oil pressure gauge AND an low oil pressure alarm?  

If so, is the gauge showing low pressure AND you get an alarm?  

Does the oil pressure drop quickly at 2000RPM or does it drift down slowly?  

Is it stable, or does it bounce around?

Does it come back quickly when you reduce the RPM, or does it stay low?

 

 

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Mast prebend Amel 54

kwzy6vgkpvtfohjddjsrotobzwf2pjeafjwalhur@...
 

Hello Olivier,

Thank you for that information. I will introduce a very slight prebend whilst at anchor, then go and test it as you suggest. 

Whilst on the subject of the mast and rigging. I have not been using the running backstays much as I have been reaching up and down the islands in the West Indies.

 However I will be sailing back to Europe this May and will most likely have a good thrash to windward, at least for the first few days, and will use the runners accordingly. However I feel that they are hardly necessary in all but rough conditions to windward, as the spreaders are swept aft. Thus the lower spreader and the baby stay triangulate and the upper spreader and the staysail stay also triangulate. Up to now I have seen very little or no pumping of the mast, even when sailing upwind in 15-20 knots true wind.

Would you agree with that approach?

Kind regards

Nick


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Mast prebend Amel 54

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Nick and Alan,

originally, all the AMEL SA, SM and 54 had a slight prebend.
This means that in the harbor, the main mast is slightly curved aft (mast head above mast foot, but a little "belly" at half height. This was done in order that, under sails, especially with a full genoa, close hauling, the mast head would not go forward.
So, with that little curve without sails, the mast should be straight when sailing.
This was absolutely not done for performance.
A slight curve is OK. A big curve will for sure involve mainsail furling issues.

Before changing anything, look at your mast in the harbor, and while sailing, close hauling with the full genoa and mainsail, with 18/20 knots apparent wind. If you see the mast bending forward, you need more tension on the backstay, which may get the mast to bend a little backwards.

All the AMEL 54 main masts that have now been reinforced should have this "slight curve".

I'm sorry but this will not bring much performance...for this kind of sails.

Olivier.


On Sunday, January 21, 2018 11:47 AM, "divanz620@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
I would have to say...No....
Prebending a mast which has an inmast furling system is asking for trouble.
The furling foil needs to be vertical and the boom horizontal for the sail to furl correctly.
Don't do it would be my advice
Cheers
Alan 
ELYSE SM437




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] HEADSAIL FURLING

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Vladimir, and all the SA/SM owners potentially interested in "AMEL" genoa furlers,

AMEL was the designer, but the units and parts were manufactured in Switzerland.
I recently got in touch with the manufacturer of these furlers. The company name is VIKASA ENGINEERING, located in La-Chaux-de Fonds/Switzerland. 
The email contact is: vikasa.vignando@...
The man who knows all about it is Mr. Vignando. The problem is he doesn't speak and write much english.

I asked him a parts list with prices that I hope to get soon.

However, I'm not keen on dealing parts (shipping, etc...) and I have little time for that, so maybe one of you speaking both english and french could help the owners who would like to purchase parts...?

I will revert with the parts list asap.

Olivier.


On Saturday, January 20, 2018 5:49 PM, "Vladimir Sonsev sonsev52@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Yes, I am in Le Marin.
Amel does not have gears in stock now. Lead time now for making the gears is many months. We are going to buildup gear teeth by welding. I consider this a temporary fix. 

Vladimir
202 258 1916

On Jan 20, 2018 12:14, "'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Vladimir,
 
Are you still in Le Marin? Amel can fix the motor for you.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Martinique
 
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com [mailto:amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 20, 2018 10:12 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] HEADSAIL FURLING
 
 
My headsail furling failed. Steel worm gear needs replacement.
I wonder if someone can sell me a worm gear, or worm gear with a matting brass gear, or used headsail furling unit all together.
 
Please advice where I can buy those items or good replacement for Amel furling unit.
 
VLADIMIR
SM 345 "LIFE IS GOOD"
 
 
 
 




Re: Mast prebend Amel 54

Alan Leslie
 

I would have to say...No....
Prebending a mast which has an inmast furling system is asking for trouble.
The furling foil needs to be vertical and the boom horizontal for the sail to furl correctly.
Don't do it would be my advice
Cheers
Alan 
ELYSE SM437


Mast prebend Amel 54

kwzy6vgkpvtfohjddjsrotobzwf2pjeafjwalhur@...
 

Hello fellow Amelians, 


I notice that nearly all the Amels including the 54, which I have, do not have any prebend in the main mast.

A professional rigger in Antigua, who is very well qualified and rigs huge mega yachts, thinks that the boat would benefit by some prebend. This would be done primarily by tightening the staysail stay and easing the aft lowers. It would he says improve windward performance. I have seen his work on an Amel 54 and I have to admit it looks right. I have spoken with the owner who says it has improved windward performance dramatically. 


So I am keen to try this but I do have some reservations. I am concerned that any prebend that I introduce may cause trouble with the in mast furling possibly jamming. I know for example that if the mainsail clew is lashed too low to the outhaul car then the sail is prone to jamming. I have tried this and if it is as little as 5cm lower than the tack the sail jams. So I fear that by introducing mast prebend I might have problems.


On the other hand a modest amount of prebend might indeed be fine and improve performance. 


Does anyone have any experience with this issue?


Nick S/Y Amelia 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Isolated alternators

greatketch@...
 


Thomas,

I can not tell you what was "typically" fitted on an SM because our alternator in not original.

You are correct about the function of the ground relay on the engine, hence the requirement for all the sensors to be two wire style instead of grounding to the engine block.

You are also correct, the Amel floating ground is unusual on FRP boats, but not at all unique. It has nothing to do with having both 12 and 24 volt systems onboard.  Floating grounds are standard on metal hulled boats, especially aluminum hulls, for example. 

Even very knowledgable people will have passionate arguments about the pros and cons of a floating ground. It should be obvious to anyone that either system can work well.  My old boat had it's negative and bond connected together. It had no significant issues and it was 40 years old.  

Some types of corrosion are eliminated by one system, and some types by the other.  Some types of maintenance issues show up on one, and not the other.

The KEY is to be sure that you understand which system you have, and make sure you understand what is needed to keep it as it was designed.  Mixing and matching have to potential to set up stray currents that cause serious problems.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Great Harbor Cay, Bahamas


---In amelyachtowners@..., <svgarulfo@...> wrote :

Thanks Bill, 

The original alternator and the replacement are both of the same type: case grounded. I’ll work towards isolating the alternator ext rnal case from the engine block. 

As an owner of an SM, could you indicate what type is typically fitted there?

As an aside, am I right in thinking the solenoid on the negative circuit connects the engine block to the negative terminal of the starter battery only during the start procedure and not all the time the engine is running?

Also, I’d like to understand the advantage of the floating negative in the amel design. It seems to go against the litterature I know of, that tends to indicate the bonding should be connected to the negative battery terminal (if I’m not mistaken). Is it to do with the presence of both 12V and 24V circuits?

Thanks

Thomas
GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Union Island, St Vincent & the Grenadines 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hookah System

karkauai
 

Exactly, Craig.  I got the compressor on recommendation of a diver who was cleaning a boat bottom near me a couple years ago.  The CFM rating is 1 at 40psi, which is the pressure at 60ft depth.  Seems to be plenty at 7 ft depths, not sure if I needed to go 20 ft down to unfoul an anchor.

I did NOT add the filter.  It is an oil-less compressor that sits in the cockpit while in use, and the hose is not rubber, it's a PVC hose that the diver said is safe for breathing air.  i purchased a diving hose, but finding coupling adapters has proven difficult.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy
Ft Lauderdale for a few more days, then Bahamas, T&C, and farther S.





From: "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Saturday, January 20, 2018 6:03 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hookah System

 
Way to go, Kent!  I trust you referred to David Lynn's (formerly s/v Nine of Cups) article in the October 2012 Ocean Navigator on doing this. Anybody interested should google that article. I'm assembling one now.

The only thing you didn't mention that David included is an air filter/water separator in the regulator supply line - trust you did put it in. 

BTW, what is the CFM rating of your compressor and how many gallons is the tank?

Cheers, Craig - SN#68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

I changed the Subject line...

I bought an oil-less compressor from HarborFreight (pan style, 100psi) for $60 on sale.  With a 50ft hose and used regulator for another $75, I have a hookah system for cleaning the bottom, unfouling the prop, and changing zincs, as well as compressed air for lots of other things.  I run it off of my 1800W 24-110AC inverter.

Kent
S/V Kristy



Re: Hookah System

Craig Briggs
 

Way to go, Kent!  I trust you referred to David Lynn's (formerly s/v Nine of Cups) article in the October 2012 Ocean Navigator on doing this. Anybody interested should google that article. I'm assembling one now.

The only thing you didn't mention that David included is an air filter/water separator in the regulator supply line - trust you did put it in. 

BTW, what is the CFM rating of your compressor and how many gallons is the tank?

Cheers, Craig - SN#68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote :

I changed the Subject line...

I bought an oil-less compressor from HarborFreight (pan style, 100psi) for $60 on sale.  With a 50ft hose and used regulator for another $75, I have a hookah system for cleaning the bottom, unfouling the prop, and changing zincs, as well as compressed air for lots of other things.  I run it off of my 1800W 24-110AC inverter.

Kent
S/V Kristy


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Isolated alternators

Sv Garulfo
 

Thanks Bill, 

The original alternator and the replacement are both of the same type: case grounded. I’ll work towards isolating the alternator ext rnal case from the engine block. 

As an owner of an SM, could you indicate what type is typically fitted there?

As an aside, am I right in thinking the solenoid on the negative circuit connects the engine block to the negative terminal of the starter battery only during the start procedure and not all the time the engine is running?

Also, I’d like to understand the advantage of the floating negative in the amel design. It seems to go against the litterature I know of, that tends to indicate the bonding should be connected to the negative battery terminal (if I’m not mistaken). Is it to do with the presence of both 12V and 24V circuits?

Thanks

Thomas
GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Union Island, St Vincent & the Grenadines 


On Fri, 19 Jan 2018 at 16:58, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thomas,


There are two significantly different types of alternators, depending on where the how the return circuit to the battery negative is made.
Tter
In a "case grounded" alternator there is usually an attachment on the alternator for the battery Positive wire ONLY.  The connection back to the battery Negative is through the alternator external case, and then through the engine block.  This will not work on an Amel because the engine block is not continuously connected to the battery negative. These are the common alternators used on automobiles.  

Occasionally, this type of "case grounded" alternator has a connection for a battery negative cable on it.  The way to check if your alternator is "case grounded" is to look for continuity between the Negative terminal on the alternator and the the alternator's external case. If the alternator is "case grounded" it will show near zero ohms on this path.  It is not suitable for an Amel UNLESS the case is electrically isolated from the engine block with the plastic inserts.  Putting one of these on an Amel without the isolation parts will make a continuous direct connection between the bonding system (connected to the engine) and the battery negative (connected to the alternator case).  This eliminates the "floating negative" that the Amel was designed with.  It would put all the underwater parts of the boat at risk for stray current corrosion.

The other type of alternator with an "isolated ground" has connections for both battery Positive and battery Negative on the alternator.  This is the best type of alternator, and hopefully the one you have.  On this type of alternator, if you test the resistance between the Negative terminal and the case you will see an open circuit--no connection.  If you have this type of alternator, it can be installed safely without the plastic isolation parts since it is already electrically isolated from its mount to the engine.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Great Harbor Cay, Bahamas