Date   
Re: Problems hooking up new Bamar EJF 1.0 to new Boxtron E14s Any help appreciated!

luvkante
 

Hi Porter,

Ask Gan Piero from Amel 54 NOW OR NEVER. He completed the job successfully.
He`s on this forum as well as on Facebook.

Martin
AMEL #149 CHIARA

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Problems hooking up new Bamar EJF 1.0 to new Boxtron E14s Any help appreciated!

Sv Garulfo
 

Hi Porter,

Not much help from us either: our genoa furler was switched to Reckmann by the previous owner and the trinquet is still on the belt driven bamar MEJ 1.02 (currently with a broken belt, waiting for a spare...). Also, the boxtron unit is an EM and it replaced an E14 one that is still there in the bow locker. When troubleshooting the failed furler motor, I found the boxtron only let out ~16V when the solenoids were energised. That didn't seem right, even though I didn't have a benchmark to compare. By chance the previous owner had left a spare EM boxtron that I installed and that let ~24V through. Still no rotation, and turned my attention to the belt, which I discovered was broken and tightly wrapped around the drive...
Anyway I don't know if or why the E14 was replaced by EM. The previous owner also left 2 spare E14S boxtron in the boat, in the packaging sent by Bamar. 

Sorry, it's a long story for not much precise information. 

It would be surprising that both motor units have the same defect but not impossible. Ideally you would bring one of them to a 54 nearby and hook it up to their boxtron box to isolate the fault. Have you tried energising the motor directly with 24V, with the expectation it should just rotate?

Our bow locker is pretty damp too, i will check those bolts. So are our other lockers when water runs on deck.  What grease do you us on the gaskets? Silicon I presume ?


Thanks 
Thomas 

Garulfo
Amel 54 #122
Graciosa, Canary Islands, Spain


On Tue, 7 Nov 2017 at 21:54, Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Excellent Ideas.  I think I am going to hangout in there during a rainstorm and see what we get. 
Thank you both!

Porter


Porter McRoberts

S/V Ibis: Amel 54-#152
Ft. Lauderdale
www.fouribis.com
portermcroberts@...


On Nov 7, 2017, at 4:57 PM, 'Mohammad Shirloo' mshirloo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hi Porter;
 
I cannot help much with the Bamar issue as we are still using the belt driven units and hoping to get a few more years out of them.
 
As far as the bow locker, ours is very dry and no sign of humidity at all. I'm always pleasantly surprised to open the bow locker and smell, what seems to be, fresh fiberglass resin smell. When we purchased her, Olivier did the survey and noticed that some moisture had previously come in from the mounting bolts of the anchor plate in the front of the locker. We did tighten these bolts and have not seen any moisture since. However, even then, we never noticed any kind of moisture or any smell of humidity.
 
I would check the anchor plate bolts in the front and possibly the windlass deck switches for any sign of moisture penetration.
 
Respectfully;
Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099


From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] 
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2017 1:43 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Problems hooking up new Bamar EJF 1.0 to new Boxtron E14s Any help appreciated!

Dear Amelians, Likely 54ians,


After the prescribed repeat frustrations with the OEM Bamar “Magic” EJFs, I finally decided to make the switch to new Bamar direct drive EJF 1.0s.

They are newly installed on the Foc and Trinquet, forestay and inner forestay.  Wires run below decks to the bow locker and to 2 new E14 Boxtrons.  

24v feed is good to both.  power from both (Foc and Trinquet) furling switches is good.

Today I worked with Nance and Underwood here in fort lauderdale as well as a stumped rigging marine electrician who hooked up the E14s as they should.  

We find the following:  with E14 and trinket furling switch a click in the furler motor housing, but no rotation.  If we hook up same wiring to an old and existing EM Boxtron, furler works!

Dispite much rewiring, no EJF rotation with the E14.  This occurs with both the new furlers.  

The electrician is stumped.  Bamar NA no return phone call.

Any thoughts?  

Very appreciated.



Second question:  is the bow locker always very humid?  I’ve re-greased the gasket and tightened the screws.  still seems very humid.  Anyone installed a ventilation fan?



Thanks again.  

Porter


Porter McRoberts
954 684 8586c
S/V Ibis: Amel 54-#152
Ft. Lauderdale
www.fouribis.com
portermcroberts@...









Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] C Drive - service kit 400EUR???

Alan Leslie
 

In October 2016, the prices were the same.
I keep a spare set always...same with the bowthruster seals.
Before I use them, I order another set.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] C Drive - service kit 400EUR???

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

The last time I purchased the C Drive parts was 23 September 2015...the part numbers and prices were:

[Amel Part 2072] BAGUE D'USURE ARBRE Ø 40 ALESAGE +0.05 (SN SMU A54 A55/Prop shaft bushing) 149,80 Euro
[Amel Part 1422] JOINT SPI 45 x 65 x 8 POUR BAGUE D'USURE (Lip seal for prop) 6,00 Euro each
The prices above do not include VAT or Shipping Costs

These parts protect your C-Drive. Amel recommends changing these and the oil every 800 hours. I believe that since a haulout is required to replace these parts and since other reasons will necessitate a 2-year interval to haulout, AND, since the actual cost of hauling out is much more significant that the individual reasons to haulout,,,doing this job every two years is best.

I believe the risk in using non-Amel parts is the cost of replacing the C-Drive, which I estimate to be 30,000 Euros. I would never risk such a large amount to save a few euros, but some people do. I have seen the problems that some people have experienced when trying to save a few euros...it is not worth it.

Seal sizes are uniform, but the material a seal is made of is NOT. I have seen seals that were supposedly the same that Amel distributes and could easily compress them with my fingers, while I could not with the seals Amel supplies.

This Prop shaft bushing and 3-lip seals are exactly the same on all Amel C-Drives for Santorin, Super Maramu, Amel 54, and Amel 55.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Furling Gearbox Differences

greatketch@...
 

My comments really only can be taken as "true" for the Leroy Sumer units used on boats before 1997.  They are the only ones I have had in hand and taken apart.  The Italian ones might be different...

That said, the top and bottom covers need to come off. The motor does not need to be removed from the gearbox, unless you have concerns about the worm shaft seal.  Since that is fully protected from the environment, I wouldn't expect it to have problems.

 Once you have the box dismounted it's a pretty easy job from there.  The covers are sealed with o-rings.  The lip seals pop out in a second with a seal puller, and new ones just just tap into place.  A good chance to check the insides and renew lubricant if it has water in it too!

Check the o-ring seats carefully.  One of mine had corrosion pits that would have prevented a good seal, so I used some RTV on that one to fill the gap.

The bit about "permanently lubricated" might be true--but only until a seal fails.

This really isn't high tech mechanical engineering.  The only high wear contact point is between the worm and the worm gear.  Other than that, it's just four lightly loaded ball bearings.

I think there are two issues with these units.  First, is the housing alloy really is marginal for salt water exposure.  Second, the top seal is exposed to the sun.  The rubber parts do NOT like the continuous UV exposure. A cover when not sailing would never hurt...

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
On the hard at LMC,
Fort Lauderdale, FL

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Furling Gearbox Differences

Alan Leslie
 

My two penny worth.....

If the gearbox is full of oil there won't be any "pooling"
The environment inside the gearbox isn't particularly hostile.
Long periods in the sun is hardly "baking" and in any event grease would fair worse than gear oil, but the temperatures are not that high compared to the ratings for the grease and oil.
I have bought gearboxes from Leroy Somer that didn't require opening up to insert shims - maybe the gearboxes on the Santorin are different. 
Drilling holes in the gearbox while still assembled is fraught with problems - hitting the gears with the drill bit, swarf from the drilling operation getting into the oil / grease...not a good idea.
Grease moving away from the gear is associated with the speed of the gears, not frequent or infrequent use. The worm gear spins quite fast.
if the oil / grease isn't required for lubrication, why is it there ?
Grease won't prevent water ingress. That's what the seals are for, and they should be replaced before they fail.
If you get salt water in the box, no matter whether you have grease or oil, you will have problems.
 
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Furling Gearbox Differences

Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
 

Hi James,
Interestingly, these reduction gears are sold as "permanently lubricated" with gear oil (close, but not generic SAE 90 - you can google the specific oil). HOWEVER, the expected applications for which they are engineered are "friendly" industrial environments, typically in interior machine rooms with the orientation of the reduction gear being vertical (the oil flows nicely over the gears) and it gets thousands of hours of virtually continuous operation and never needs lubrication.  NOT ON AN AMEL.

Our application could not be more different: it requires disassembly of the factory sealed unit (so long "permanently lubricated") to add the plastic spacers and re-drilling the mounts, plus a horizontal orientation (so oil will pool on one side) and, of course, the environment is hostile and the usage is infrequent (compared with industrial applications) with long periods of baking in the sun at high temperatures. The conditions for "permanent lubrication" have been totally voided and no longer exist. 

Now, what  Amel did is to break the factory seals to modify it for the black delrin shims and replace the factory supplied oil with grease. Owners have improved on the Captain's engineering (I can see Bill R getting excited!) by adding grease fittings so they can do preventive maintenance and keep the grease topped up. 

As for tapping the grease fitting holes, there is enough clearance inside such that you can drill and tap a hole anywhere - do be careful, of course. Better yet, since you have to open the replacement unit to add the shims, just pop off the side plate and get a visual on where to drill and tap. Watch out for getting metal chips inside.

As for grease getting thrown off the gears as they spin, remember that our application is so infrequent as compared with a continuous industrial application that it is inconsequential - keeping the housing full of grease will provide more than adequate lubrication, (which, actually, is hardly needed). More to the point, the grease is there not so much for lubrication, but to keep the housing full and prevent any water ingress, which is the culprit in corroded bearings that allow the worm gear to wobble and destroy the gear train.

So go drill and tap and it will be fine.

Cheers, Craig Briggs SN#68

---In amelyachtowners@..., <jean.boucharlat@...> wrote :

James,

 

There are entire libraries filled with heavy books, theses, knowledgeable opinions, about the respective merits of grease and oil.

You can spend the upcoming winter making up your mind if you have the courage to investigate thoroughly this particular issue.

Take the plunge, make your own decision about what fits your particular circumstances.

 

Jean Boucharlat

Formerly SM 232

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: vendredi 10 novembre 2017 05:29
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Furling Gearbox Differences

 

 

What is the consensus of others, then, regarding using gear oil versus grease for the furlor and outhaul gearboxes?

Indeed, it would seem that gear oil would be the appropriate lubrication, but I look to those smarter than me… 

 

James

On Nov 9, 2017, at 10:47 PM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

If you are going to disassemble the gearbox, why not just fill it with SAE90 oil?

That will do a much better job of keeping the gears lubricated than grease.

Grease tends to get thrown off gears as they turn and doesn't stay where the gears are meshed, which is what you really want to lubricate.

Cheers

Alan 

Elyse SM437

On the hard, raising the waterline

 

 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Furling Gearbox Differences

James Alton
 

Bill,

   Good point about the low hours accumulated on a gearbox.  Does the replacement of the shaft seals require opening the gearbox?   

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

On Nov 10, 2017, at 11:03 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

I am pretty sure it doesn't (much) matter which you use.  After all, even on a heavily sailed boat we run REALLY low duty cycles on these gear boxes. Think about it, in a really busy day of sailing, that gearbox sees maybe 15 minutes of use. If you are underway 100 days a year, that's only 25 hours of operation, and that's a very generous estimate.  I'd be surprised it in the real world we accumulated 100 hours in 10 years of full time cruising.


Far more important than grease vs oil is making sure you replace the shaft seals BEFORE they fail and let salt water in to the internals.  I have those on a two year replacement interval.  How did I chose that?  Because after two years, there was not a trace of water inside the gearbox, and I see no good reason to push it further out than that.  I also use double lip seals to help keep water and salt out.

The transmissions on my Lew mar electric winches are essentially the same as used on the furling system, and they get used a LOT more.  Yet we rarely have problems with them.  Why?  Because they are below deck and stay dry.

One possible advantage to using oil is that if the seals fail the oil leaks out and make a mess you can see which (hopefully) prompts a quick repair.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
On the hard at LMC,
Fort Lauderdale, FL




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Furling Gearbox Differences

greatketch@...
 

I am pretty sure it doesn't (much) matter which you use.  After all, even on a heavily sailed boat we run REALLY low duty cycles on these gear boxes. Think about it, in a really busy day of sailing, that gearbox sees maybe 15 minutes of use. If you are underway 100 days a year, that's only 25 hours of operation, and that's a very generous estimate.  I'd be surprised it in the real world we accumulated 100 hours in 10 years of full time cruising.

Far more important than grease vs oil is making sure you replace the shaft seals BEFORE they fail and let salt water in to the internals.  I have those on a two year replacement interval.  How did I chose that?  Because after two years, there was not a trace of water inside the gearbox, and I see no good reason to push it further out than that.  I also use double lip seals to help keep water and salt out.

The transmissions on my Lewmar electric winches are essentially the same as used on the furling system, and they get used a LOT more.  Yet we rarely have problems with them.  Why?  Because they are below deck and stay dry.

One possible advantage to using oil is that if the seals fail the oil leaks out and make a mess you can see which (hopefully) prompts a quick repair.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
On the hard at LMC,
Fort Lauderdale, FL


Re: phased electronics replacement

greatketch@...
 

The AC42 is the B&G autopilot computer, not a navigation computer.

Our primary charts are on the Zeus, where we have Navionics charts.  We do have a second set of charts as a back up--all on paper.

Bill Kinney
Sm160, Harmonie
On the hard at LMC,
Fort Lauderdale, FL



---In amelyachtowners@..., <dominique_guenot@...> wrote :

Hello Bill, 

Thank you for all these information and the schematic.

I see you have a computer AC42 at the navigation table. 
What are you using it for?  
Are you plotting your route on it or on the Zeus at the Helm or both? 
Do you have 1 set of charts or 2 different sets of charts? 

Thank you in advance

Dominique
s/v Viva currently in Fiji  

Re: Duo 60 Desallator pressure problem

greatketch@...
 

Duane,

There is a mechanical, adjustable back pressure valve on the brine output.  That is controlled by the knob on the panel.  

While the logic board does monitor the pressure, but it has no control over it.  All it does is shut down power to the pump if the pressure is too high.

The most likely causes are on the pump side with water supply, check valves, or motor speed.  A bad back pressure valve COULD cause pressure problems, but I doubt very much they would vary with time.  Those valves are very simple.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
On the hard at LMC,
Fort Lauderdale, FL

Re: C Drive - service kit 400EUR???

greatketch@...
 


LO,

Something sounds very strange...  I don't remember exactly, it's been a year since I last ordered these for our Super Maramu, but a price of less than 150 euros seems more in line with what I remember for the propshaft bushing, three lip seals and one o-ring.

The lip seals and o-ring are standard industrial parts.  The bronze wear bushing is an Amel specific part.

The specified replacement interval for the bushing and seals is 800 engine hours.  Most people replace them about every two years, at the normal haulout interval.  

I just replaced mine today, almost exactly 2 years after the last time they were changed.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
On the hard at LMC
Fort Lauderdale, FL



---In amelyachtowners@..., <santorinlo18@...> wrote :

Hi Group, trying to service the C drive while the boat is winterised now, got a price indication from Amel of around 400EUR for service kit including some o rings and seal. 

Questions are - 

Any alternative for this?

Every how long these need to be replaced?

Does this price makes sense? 

Thanks in advance for your advice.

LO

Re: C Drive - service kit 400EUR???

Ian Park
 

In short
No, you do need the wearing out bearing - it costs!
Yes you can get the seals and o ring elsewhere + they are standard sizes.
Usually every 2 years. Keep an eye on the oil header tank in the engine room. AMEL call it ‘mayonnaise’ which is the colour sea water mixed with oil goes. It also depends on miles done under engine as this creates the wear on the seals and bearing. But note that using the shaft alternator on the Santorin also creates wear!
There are very good explanations on the Yahoo site of how to do the job, and Alexandre (Nikimat) posted some excellent photos of the process.

Best advice if like me you aren’t of an engineering background is to have someone do the job who has the AMEL experience and watch and learn. i had mine done at AMEL Martinique and reckon I can do it myself now?

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96

PS
Best to sign of with name, boat name and hull number. Protocol on this user group.....

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Duo 60 Desallator pressure problem

hanspeter baettig
 

Ok Duane
I got you reply right now. As I understand you modifeyd  yourself the Dessalator System ? New Pully on the 24 V ??
If so don't ask Dessalator for help
Kr Hanspeter

Von meinem iPad gesendet

Am 10.11.2017 um 22:50 schrieb sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

It's on the 24V motor.  I had too many problems with the "bendix" bearings on the original pulleys, so I removed them from the motors.  I replaced them with one solid pulley on one motor, and I chose the 24V motor because it fit my needs better.  It also fits the 230V motor so I can switch to it if necessary (e.g., if the 24V motor dies).


I doubt very seriously it has anything to do with the motor.  The motor is single speed and runs evenly whether the pressure is being maintained or is being erratic.  The belt is not slipping during the erratic pressure episode and there is no unusual noise from the motor and high pressure pump.  You can see all of this in the video I posted the link to in the original post.

Thanks for your thoughts,
Duane

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Duo 60 Desallator pressure problem

hanspeter baettig
 

Ok DuaneI watched your video 😉
you run it on 24 V via the batteries with the Geni on or with the Geni on with 220 V ?
Drop of voltage ? if running on the batteries even with Geni on.
This is quit normal that the pressure gauge change a littel bit . I saw you operating the pressure knob quit with power. Should not be like that. Normaly you can regulate this terminal smouthly. Ask Dessalator for suggestions. This has nothing to do with the  PCB in the electronic control box in the cockpit port locker. The sound of the low pressure pump is ok.
If I use my brand new Dessalator Duo 100 I'm stand by for 1 hour on the boat. 
kr 
Hanspeter



Von meinem iPad gesendet

Am 10.11.2017 um 19:10 schrieb sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

I'm having an issue with the watermaker where the pressure becomes erratic after running normally for 15 to 90 minutes.  You could watch a video of the pressure dial here:  https://www.dropbox.com/sh/63wu632zckpu9u1/AAB2tVJwzWvCiczr2W_oWvoza?dl=0


First I'm wondering if anyone else has had this trouble?


The things I've done to try to solve the problem include: replacing the prefilter, cleaning the seachest, checking seawater supply by disconnecting the hose from the watermaker into a bucket, checking connections in case it was sucking air on the supply side.  None of these indicated a problem.


Since the pump motors are constant speed motors, the pressure must be regulated by a "dump valve" on the back of the control panel, which is what the pressure di al must be adjusting.  So the brine line is attached to the dump valve, and it regulates how much pressure is relieved to the waste line which controls the pressure in the membranes.  Has anyone had to replace this valve?  I would expect all the other Desallators operate in a similar fashion.


The other possibility that has occurred to me is there must be a logic board involved to monitor the pressure and will perform an auto shut down (opens the dump valve) if the pressure goes too high or too low.  It seems logical that the logic board could fail in a way that it sends erratic signals to the dump valve.  Anyone have trouble with that?


I don't have an idea on how to test either of these, or if my understanding of how the system operates is even true.  Any information would be appreciated.  


Does anybody have any other possibilities I could look into?  

 

Duane

Wanderer, SM#477

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: leech length on mizzen ballooner on 54

JEFFREY KRAUS
 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Duo 60 Desallator pressure problem

hanspeter baettig
 

Hello Duane
why you don't ask Dessalator in Antibes ;they have an excellen engineer who developed the  system together with the Wagner familie.
 Technical and Sales Departments,
Contact: contact@...
Tel +33 (0) 4 93 95 04 55

And yes they speaks englisch. And also the person who will mostly take you call is an expert. I 'dont understand often people ask the forum without get the right answere if even get a reply of their inquirey.
The same with Amel question. Amel has the best "After Sales Support, sav@... in the yachting business!! "  Yes , its not for free, but I like to spent some $ to get the right answer. (and only the right answer) !!
Best regards
Hanspeter
Tamango 2
SM 16
Gibraltar

Von meinem iPad gesendet

Am 10.11.2017 um 19:10 schrieb sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

I'm having an issue with the watermaker where the pressure becomes erratic after running normally for 15 to 90 minutes.  You could watch a video of the pressure dial here:  https://www.dropbox.com/sh/63wu632zckpu9u1/AAB2tVJwzWvCiczr2W_oWvoza?dl=0


First I'm wondering if anyone else has had this trouble?


The things I've done to try to solve the problem include: replacing the prefilter, cleaning the seachest, checking seawater supply by disconnecting the hose from the watermaker into a bucket, checking connections in case it was sucking air on the supply side.  None of these indicated a problem.


Since the pump motors are constant speed motors, the pressure must be regulated by a "dump valve" on the back of the control panel, which is what the pressure di al must be adjusting.  So the brine line is attached to the dump valve, and it regulates how much pressure is relieved to the waste line which controls the pressure in the membranes.  Has anyone had to replace this valve?  I would expect all the other Desallators operate in a similar fashion.


The other possibility that has occurred to me is there must be a logic board involved to monitor the pressure and will perform an auto shut down (opens the dump valve) if the pressure goes too high or too low.  It seems logical that the logic board could fail in a way that it sends erratic signals to the dump valve.  Anyone have trouble with that?


I don't have an idea on how to test either of these, or if my understanding of how the system operates is even true.  Any information would be appreciated.  


Does anybody have any other possibilities I could look into?  

 

Duane

Wanderer, SM#477

C Drive - service kit 400EUR???

Santorin LO
 

Hi Group, trying to service the C drive while the boat is winterised now, got a price indication from Amel of around 400EUR for service kit including some o rings and seal. 

Questions are - 

Any alternative for this?

Every how long these need to be replaced?

Does this price makes sense? 

Thanks in advance for your advice.

LO

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Duo 60 Desallator pressure problem

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi,

We had the same when driving with the 24 volt. Caused by the sprag bearing/clutch in the pulley that allows it to free wheel when the 220 volt motor is being used. The drive in the clutch was beginning to fail. It was associated with some abnormal noise too. This bearing is pressed into the pulley.

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 11 November 2017 at 09:02 "webercardio webercardio@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Same problem running the watermaker on 24 voltage and 220 Volt?





-------- Ursprüngliche Nachricht --------
Von: "sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Datum: 10.11.17 19:10 (GMT+01:00)
An: amelyachtowners@...
Betreff: [Amel Yacht Owners] Duo 60 Desallator pressure problem

 

 

I'm having an issue with the watermaker where the pressure becomes erratic after running normally for 15 to 90 minutes.  You could watch a video of the pressure dial here:  https://www.dropbox.com/sh/63wu632zckpu9u1/AAB2tVJwzWvCiczr2W_oWvoza?dl=0


First I'm wondering if anyone else has had this trouble?


The things I've done to try to solve the problem include: replacing the prefilter, cleaning the seachest, checking seawater supply by disconnecting the hose from the watermaker into a bucket, checking connections in case it was sucking air on the supply side.  None of these indicated a problem.


Since the pump motors are constant speed motors, the pressure must be regulated by a "dump valve" on the back of the control panel, which is what the pressure dial must be adjusting.  So the brine line is attached to the dump valve, and it regulates how much pressure is relieved to the waste line which controls the pressure in the membranes.  Has anyone had to replace this valve?  I would expect all the other Desallators operate in a similar fashion.


The other possibility that has occurred to me is there must be a logic board involved to monitor the pressure and will perform an auto shut down (opens the dump valve) if the pressure goes too high or too low.  It seems logical that the logic board could fail in a way that it sends erratic signals to the dump valve.  Anyone have trouble with that?


I don't have an idea on how to test either of these, or if my understanding of how the system operates is even true.  Any information would be appreciated.  


Does anybody have any other possibilities I could look into?  

 

Duane

Wanderer, SM#477

 

 


 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Duo 60 Desallator pressure problem

Duane Siegfri
 

It's on the 24V motor.  I had too many problems with the "bendix" bearings on the original pulleys, so I removed them from the motors.  I replaced them with one solid pulley on one motor, and I chose the 24V motor because it fit my needs better.  It also fits the 230V motor so I can switch to it if necessary (e.g., if the 24V motor dies).

I doubt very seriously it has anything to do with the motor.  The motor is single speed and runs evenly whether the pressure is being maintained or is being erratic.  The belt is not slipping during the erratic pressure episode and there is no unusual noise from the motor and high pressure pump.  You can see all of this in the video I posted the link to in the original post.

Thanks for your thoughts,
Duane