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Re: Strange 24DC leakage
Hi Thomas and Bill, I had the same problem, measured the current over the indicatorlight, disconnected all wires (negativ and positiv) of all equipment in contact with salt/waterpumps. I could not find the fault and had to leave the boat for several weeks. When I returned the test worked fine - no Indikator light. This was 18 months ago-still no problems. After this I check it daily, sign o.k.in the logbook. Minimum test before and after any work at the electric System. Once I had a light on the tester, when I made a HDMI connection between the TV and the Furuno Navnet. Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54#162
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Sealant for dodger windows?
Ryan Meador
Hi all, I'm replacing my dodger windows. I've had the acrylic fabricated, I've painted the edges, I've filled and drilled the screw holes... The only thing I'm missing is the sealant. I had intended to use butyl tape, but the stuff I got is way too stickly to work with. It's almost impossible to cut, and even if I got it in place, I'd be unable to fine tune the window position before screwing. I think the original sealant was a type of silicone. Does anyone know what it was and how it was applied? I'm scared it will squish out onto the window and I won't be able to get it off the acrylic. Thanks, Ryan SM 233 Iteration Boston, MA, USA
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Strange 24DC leakage
Interesting. This Amel-made bonding system check device is simple and masterfully accurate. The type of thing the you expect from Amel...very Amelish. I wonder if what you describe could be caused by the test circuit itself since it is the source of the power to light the bulb, while the "switch" to turn ON the bulb is any existing connection between bonding and the selected post of the 24 volt system at the moment of switch activation. What you describe is a diminishing resistance of that electrical connection, over time. I'll be interested in what people, who know more than I do, say about this. Best, CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus Amel School www.amelschool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Wed, Apr 25, 2018, 13:08 'S/V Garulfo' svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Strange 24DC leakage
Sv Garulfo
Hi everyone, Our DC leakage detector is showing a leak on the negative. I investigated any AC charger + DC USB potential issue as mentioned previously on the group and didn't find any culprit. However, it highlighted this strange fact: when I push the switch up to test for bad connection between negative and grounding, the light comes on and slowly goes off in about 3 seconds. If I test again, it doesn't come on. I need to wait for 10 , 15 minutes for it to 'recharge'. It looks like a capacitor discharging. Has anybody experienced this before? Does it give a clue to what could be the source of the leak? Otherwise I'll start the usual investigation disconnecting everything from the batteries end. Thanks in advance, Fair winds Thomas S\V GARULFO Amel 54 #122 Saint Martin, FWI
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: The mistery slick
JEFFREY KRAUS
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Antal ball bearings
ericmeury@...
Not on the boat right now. but does anyone know the size of the ball bearing size of the Antal boom car/traveler. I need to replace mine.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ballooner Halyard
Patrick McAneny
Bill, I take it from what you wrote, that a halyard with an eye spliced in can pass up the mast and over the forward sheave ,in which case I will have an eye put in on both ends of the new halyard.
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Thanks,
Pat
SM#123
-----Original Message----- From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] To: amelyachtowners Sent: Tue, Apr 24, 2018 10:59 am Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ballooner Halyard Pat,
Mine has a loop sliced on one end, and a key shackle spliced on the on the other.
The sliced loop is a bit too large to fit over the "hook" on the mouse so it has a secondary loop of small diameter spectra line that takes care of that. The key shackle is hooked to the loop to work as the downhaul once the sail is latched.
Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Rock Sound, Eleuthera, Bahamas
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ballooner Halyard
Patrick McAneny
Ian, That is a good point about adding enough length to hoist a dinghy, and it sounds like an eye in both ends would be good for the shackle. I wonder now if an eye in a 7/16 " halyard would fit through the mast and around the sheave .
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Thanks
Pat SM#123
-----Original Message----- From: Ian parkianj@... [amelyachtowners] To: amelyachtowners Sent: Tue, Apr 24, 2018 10:45 am Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ballooner Halyard Pat
I have a captive shackle on both ends. That’s how it was when I got the boat, although I have seen it in the recent pass that you only need the shackle on on end. The shackle retaining pin should fit neatly into the groove in the ballooner mouse and the other end also attaches to the same shackle, so that once the mouse clicks in (it needs a positive jerk to locate and lock it in - if you don’t the ballooner just finds its way back to the deck!) you can pull the shackle out of the groove and retrieve the halliard leaving the ballooner is free to furl if necessary. You may want to use that halliard to hoist a dinghy on to the foredeck. If so you might want to make it long enough to hook on to the dinghy, go once round the larger mast winch and tail onto the rope drum of the windlass. This lets me manhandle the dinghy while Linda operates the windlass. It’s easier than winding it in by hand with the mast winch. Ian Ocean Hobo SN 96 Jolly Harbour PS if anyone needs to know, the water is back on in the dock and the quality is fine again. Both ends though require a loop. I’ve just replaced mine and sewn and whipped a loop in each end. The halliard is not under any great stress while hoisting and retrieving the ballooner
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Re: The mistery slick
svperegrinus@yahoo.com
Hello Bill R., Jeff, Eric, Bill K.,
A mechanic came by. Without my prompting, he did the test of loosening the fuel lines to each cylinder one by one. With each one, the engine roughened up, then straightened up when tightened again. He removed the "air filter" (which was oily), cleaned it, and after a few seconds, it was oily again. He ran the engine fast (in idle) and slow. He agreed that there is too much smoke and oil in the exhaust. He removed the oil cap and put his hand on it. Did the same with the oil dipstick. Unfortunately he has zero English and my French is less than passable. I got that he can't take me on, and that he thinks a technical test of compression/pression of something is necessary. I think he was referring to the fuel pump, but he may have meant the injectors or, less likely, the cylinders. I'm also pretty sure he said this is not a minor project. Anyway, they'll call me later with a translation. By the way, the engine timing was last checked 125 hours ago. Valve clearance last checked 88 hours ago. The cylinder head valves are 125 hours new. The shaft brake was replaced by Amel two years ago and clears the disc cleanly. The propeller was thoroughly cleaned by a diver 88 hours ago (43 days). A diver is coming tomorrow. The oil on the ZF Hurth was twice flushed 383 hours ago (13 months) and it is crystal clear/no level change. The oil on the C-Drive is 289 hours old and crystal clear/no level change. I'll have someone check the transmission oil cooler. It has not been serviced. The turbo was removed, thoroughly cleaned, painted (twice) and reinstalled 125 hours ago but I am not sure it was "tested" or what the performance tests are. Thank you all for your input. If this guy won't take me, I'll probably be looking for a well respected Yanmar outfit in France or Spain and probably have to park ourselves there for two or three weeks while they drain the oil, I mean, our bank account. Any other thoughts or recommendations, please do post. Thanks again. Peregrinus Hyères
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Re: Ballooner Halyard
Ian Park
Pat
I have a captive shackle on both ends. That’s how it was when I got the boat, although I have seen it in the recent pass that you only need the shackle on on end. The shackle retaining pin should fit neatly into the groove in the ballooner mouse and the other end also attaches to the same shackle, so that once the mouse clicks in (it needs a positive jerk to locate and lock it in - if you don’t the ballooner just finds its way back to the deck!) you can pull the shackle out of the groove and retrieve the halliard leaving the ballooner is free to furl if necessary. You may want to use that halliard to hoist a dinghy on to the foredeck. If so you might want to make it long enough to hook on to the dinghy, go once round the larger mast winch and tail onto the rope drum of the windlass. This lets me manhandle the dinghy while Linda operates the windlass. It’s easier than winding it in by hand with the mast winch. Ian Ocean Hobo SN 96 Jolly Harbour PS if anyone needs to know, the water is back on in the dock and the quality is fine again. Both ends though require a loop. I’ve just replaced mine and sewn and whipped a loop in each end. The halliard is not under any great stress while hoisting and retrieving the ballooner
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Re: Ballooner Halyard
greatketch@...
Pat,
Mine has a loop sliced on one end, and a key shackle spliced on the on the other. The sliced loop is a bit too large to fit over the "hook" on the mouse so it has a secondary loop of small diameter spectra line that takes care of that. The key shackle is hooked to the loop to work as the downhaul once the sail is latched. Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Rock Sound, Eleuthera, Bahamas
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Ballooner Halyard
Patrick McAneny
The previous owner apparently did not use the ballooner much and I have not either. I would like to replace the halyard for the ballooner and was wondering if I should have a eye spliced in one end ? How do you normally make it a continuous line , connecting the ends? Do you use the pin of a shackle to slide in and out of the groove in the hooker? I have never been on another Amel to see how this is set up and executed . Thanks, Pat SM#123
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] The mistery slick
Very good point, Jeff. Best, CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus Amel School www.amelschool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Tue, Apr 24, 2018, 08:12 JEFFREY KRAUS jmkraus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: The mistery slick
Duane Siegfri
I'll second Jeffrey's suggestion. It's an inexpensive check to remove the transmission oil cooler, take it to a radiator shop and have it cleaned and pressure tested. It's a maintenance item that should be done occasionally anyway.
We had to replace a transmission for this very reason. The boat was showing oil in the water via the engine exhaust, and we were told it was probably an injector, no rush to repair. Once a small pinhole develops in a cooling tube inside the cooler, you will lose transmission oil, and seawater will mix with what is returned to the transmission. Whether your transmission oil is cloudy or not, I would have the cooler tested to eliminate it from the list of possibles. It's a pretty inexpensive test. One thing to consider, once the pinhole develops so begins corrosion in the transmission with exposure to seawater. Duane Wanderer, SM#477
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Re: The mistery slick
Duane Siegfri
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] The mistery slick
JEFFREY KRAUS
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: The mistery slick
eric freedman
I had a similar problem when I first received Kimberlite in 2002. For whatever reason Yanmar USA, tracked the problem down to a defective turbo. I have no further problems since they swapped out the turbo under warrantee, Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2018 2:02 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: The mistery slick
Thank you Ian and Bill.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: The mistery slick
Bill and Fernando, And, low compression could be caused by valves out of adjustment. Assuming the AutoProp is clean and properly working, I would adjust the valves, then perform a compression test. If compression is within specs, I would have the almost new injectors tested. Use the following guide if the above doesn't solve the issue. Reasons for fuel in the water in order of likelihood: The engine is overrevved especially under load...this is normal to see diesel in the water. The AutoProp is fouled or needs new bearings Valves need adjusting Injector nozzels need replacing Other injector problems Fuel injection pump creating too much fuel pressure Shaft brake is not working correctly Valves are worn and engine needs a topend rebuild. The C-Drive or Transmission has something creating a load on the engine. Something else is creating a load on the engine. Best, CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus Amel School www.amelschool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: The mistery slick
greatketch@...
Actually, ANY reason for low compression in one or more cylinders could be a possible cause of unburned fuel exiting with the exhaust...
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: The mistery slick
Or, maybe your cylinder head valves need adjusting. Best, CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus Amel School http://www.amelschool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Mon, Apr 23, 2018 at 4:02 PM, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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