Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Goit Deck Hatch Lens Reseal

Alan Leslie
 

I think maybe you're referring to Plexiglas rather than plexiglass .......


Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
Bonne Anse


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] overheated batteries + email client for Irridium ?

karkauai
 

I think you have to use the iridium mail server.  I use kar at iridium dot net.  It works with the iScribe software.  I use Iridium AxcessPoint get on the internet for other web use.
I got my iridium email address from my iridium provider.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy



From: "Oscar de schaetzen sv.estran@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: "amelyachtowners@..."
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2018 3:48 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] overheated batteries + email client for Irridium ?

 
Hello,
We're currently near Gibraltar to replace our 12 batteries that overheated last week. I assume one battery failed causing the voltage to remain low. When motorsailing during part of the trip from Ibiza to Melilla the alternator kept 'loading' the batteries while they probably were already fully loaded. What alarmed us was the very bad smell. When I opened the battery compartment I saw smoke and it was very hot. There was also 2-3cm acid in the bottom and all the pods were completely corroded. We're now replacing our batteries at Alcaidesa Marina just next to Gibraltar. It was the only place where I could find batteries in a reasonable timeframe and price.
We think that some deep discharges caused one (or more) batteries to fail. We had starting truck batteries (lead-acid / maintenance free but not sealed). We now change to sealed VETUS 105 Ah batteries that can be used both for starting and service according to the Internet Site of the vendor.
Unfortunately, the batteries that were delivered today, don't fit. We'll have to cut +/-1cm of the wood structure that held the previous batteries tight to one another and make it ‘waterproof’ before we can install the new batteries. I still have to check but I’m pretty sure the dimensions given by the shipchandler were not correct.
I share this experience as it might be a good lesson to others as well. As from now I will carefully check / monitor my batteries and have a look in the compartment from time to time!
Since I'm stuck here for several days, I cease this opportunity to activate our Irridium 9555 phone as we’ll be sailing to the Canaries followed by Dakar / Cape Verde and then the Atlantic.
My question: do you use a special email client that compresses your emails or can I simply use Outlook?
My aim is to use the Irridium mainly for downloading GRIB files. I ordered a SIM prepaid card of 500min at Satphonestore.com.
Thanks in advance for your advice.
Kind regards,
Oscar
AMEL 54 n°4 – ESTRAN 




overheated batteries + email client for Irridium ?

Oscar de schaetzen <sv.estran@...>
 

Hello,

We're currently near Gibraltar to replace our 12 batteries that overheated last week. I assume one battery failed causing the voltage to remain low. When motorsailing during part of the trip from Ibiza to Melilla the alternator kept 'loading' the batteries while they probably were already fully loaded. What alarmed us was the very bad smell. When I opened the battery compartment I saw smoke and it was very hot. There was also 2-3cm acid in the bottom and all the pods were completely corroded. We're now replacing our batteries at Alcaidesa Marina just next to Gibraltar. It was the only place where I could find batteries in a reasonable timeframe and price.

We think that some deep discharges caused one (or more) batteries to fail. We had starting truck batteries (lead-acid / maintenance free but not sealed). We now change to sealed VETUS 105 Ah batteries that can be used both for starting and service according to the Internet Site of the vendor.

Unfortunately, the batteries that were delivered today, don't fit. We'll have to cut +/-1cm of the wood structure that held the previous batteries tight to one another and make it ‘waterproof’ before we can install the new batteries. I still have to check but I’m pretty sure the dimensions given by the shipchandler were not correct.

I share this experience as it might be a good lesson to others as well. As from now I will carefully check / monitor my batteries and have a look in the compartment from time to time!

Since I'm stuck here for several days, I cease this opportunity to activate our Irridium 9555 phone as we’ll be sailing to the Canaries followed by Dakar / Cape Verde and then the Atlantic.

My question: do you use a special email client that compresses your emails or can I simply use Outlook?

My aim is to use the Irridium mainly for downloading GRIB files. I ordered a SIM prepaid card of 500min at Satphonestore.com.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Kind regards,

Oscar

AMEL 54 n°4 – ESTRAN 



Re: Volvo air filters / diesel filters

Alex Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...>
 

..so then the next question is, are there VOLVO compatible quality items available at market prices? Does anyone have experience and / or recommondatios?
thanks,
Alex
SY NO STRESS
AMEL54-15

On Thursday, September 20, 2018, 12:05:57 PM GMT-4, Alex Ramseyer wrote:


HI Bob, thanks for the info and link!
Alex

On Monday, September 17, 2018, 8:29:18 AM GMT-4, Bob Hodgins wrote:


Alex,
The prices you mentioned are in line. Volvo is just crazy with their parts prices.

I purchase my Volvo parts from: http://www.marinepartsexpress.com
They have great schematics of your engine online. You can download and print them if you want.

Their prices for my engine:
air filter - $105.41
fuel filter - $51.11

That fuel filter is about a $10.00 item from any filter manufacturer, but with the Volvo name on it it is $51. Crazy!

Cheers,
Bob
Gallivant
--


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Goit Deck Hatch Lens Reseal

karkauai
 

Hmm, thanks, Gabriele,  I didn't realize that.  When I ordered the new lens, I was told I could either have acrylic or plexiglass.  Acrylic being stronger, but Plexiglass being more resistant to scratches.

Here's a blurb I just found: Although Plexiglass is a form of acrylic plastic, there are subtle differences between the two types. Plexiglass has the distinction of being harder than normal acrylic which makes it easier to drill and cut without breakage. Additionally, Plexiglass is more chemical resistant than traditional acrylic.

I looked it up on Dow's info page.  Scuffing the acrylic with 80 grit sandpaper, then cleaning with alcohol is recommended with DowCorning's 795.

I'll let everyone know how it turns out.  I'm using DC795 grey color.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy




From: "Gabriele Antolini svsunnyside@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]"
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2018 11:32 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Goit Deck Hatch Lens Reseal

 
Hi Kent
Acrilic and Plexiglas are the same.
Plexiglas is the trade name given  by the inventor Roehm & Haas ..
Regards

Gabriele
Sunny Side
Maramu #219

On Wednesday, 26 September 2018, 12:33:06 GMT-4, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:


 
I’m just about to do one on Kristy, Bill.  It had cracked last year and I had it done professionally by a company in Ft Lauderdale.  They used a clear silicone caulk which leaked a couple months later.

From what I’ve been reading, a glazing sealant by Dow (DC795) is what many professionals use, and what I’m going to use.  My hatch lenses are plexiglass, not acrylic.  I don’t know if DC795 works on acrylic or not.

For what it’s worth, there’s another product called DeBond that was designed to release 3M’s 5200 sealant.  I used it to get the hatch frame off of the deck and it made that job, and cleaning the old sealant off of the frame MUCH easier.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM 243
 
There is a specific silicone for bonding acrylic to aluminum. I forgot which one it was. Last time I called GE silicone division and they gave me the number it is not your regular silicone. Also when I rebuilt my last boat I spoke to the people at Atkins Hoyle. They recommend to prime the edge of the Plexiglas and the frame with toluene . It made the surfaces very sticky and the hatches never leaked. I also used under the genoa cars and the silicone stuck like crazy to it...  Be careful as it is very toxic.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376

On Tue, Sep 25, 2018 at 12:02 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 
Has anyone else had the need to re-seal the lens into one of the Goit deck hatches?  I just had one pop loose.

I've reset the lenses of other brands before, bedding them down in silicone, but just wondering if anyone knows of anything "unusual" about the Goit hatches?

Thanks!

Bill Kinney
Sm160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Goit Deck Hatch Lens Reseal

svsunnyside
 

Hi Kent
Acrilic and Plexiglas are the same.
Plexiglas is the trade name given  by the inventor Roehm & Haas .
Regards

Gabriele
Sunny Side
Maramu #219

On Wednesday, 26 September 2018, 12:33:06 GMT-4, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:


 

I’m just about to do one on Kristy, Bill.  It had cracked last year and I had it done professionally by a company in Ft Lauderdale.  They used a clear silicone caulk which leaked a couple months later.

From what I’ve been reading, a glazing sealant by Dow (DC795) is what many professionals use, and what I’m going to use.  My hatch lenses are plexiglass, not acrylic.  I don’t know if DC795 works on acrylic or not.

For what it’s worth, there’s another product called DeBond that was designed to release 3M’s 5200 sealant.  I used it to get the hatch frame off of the deck and it made that job, and cleaning the old sealant off of the frame MUCH easier.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM 243
 

There is a specific silicone for bonding acrylic to aluminum. I forgot which one it was. Last time I called GE silicone division and they gave me the number it is not your regular silicone. Also when I rebuilt my last boat I spoke to the people at Atkins Hoyle. They recommend to prime the edge of the Plexiglas and the frame with toluene . It made the surfaces very sticky and the hatches never leaked. I also used under the genoa cars and the silicone stuck like crazy to it..  Be careful as it is very toxic.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376

On Tue, Sep 25, 2018 at 12:02 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 

Has anyone else had the need to re-seal the lens into one of the Goit deck hatches?  I just had one pop loose.


I've reset the lenses of other brands before, bedding them down in silicone, but just wondering if anyone knows of anything "unusual" about the Goit hatches?


Thanks!


Bill Kinney

Sm160, Harmonie

Annapolis, MD, USA


Vetus Coupling

 

Ian,

Did you see the PDF I sent you? It clearly shows the machining that Amel normally does to the Vetus coupling before installation. Amel does this to expedite the installation. Was your coupling machined as pictured in the PDF? The reason I am asking is that I think we all want to know, if when ordering the Vetus coupling from Amel, do we need to specify this Amel-Modification in order to have a smooth installation????



Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Vetus Coupling Failure

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Ian. It's a bit late now but if you had cut the heads off the bolts and replaced them with bolts threaded each end you could have easily done the job in place. It means you don't have the neat system of the pin locating the head but that has not been an issue. Just use a spanner each end. I did the repair anout 7 years ago and no problems since. Periodic checks are in order.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 28 September 2018 at 00:23 "Ian Shepherd sv_freespirit@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Whilst on passage from Naxos Greece to Didim Turkey, the following wind
died to such a level that I had to start my Yanmar engine. I smoothly
set 1700 rpm which is my normal maximum other than when doing the
monthly turbo clean as recommended by Amel. About half an hour later
there was a thumping sound  which at first I thought was a rope getting
wrapped around the prop. But the engine did not stall, so unlikely. I
dived over the side and had a look. No rope, net etc and no marks on the
blades.

The Vetus coupling on my boat is somewhat obscured by by the wooden
plinth that sits on the top of the C-Drive support frame. The plinth
supports the water tank that feeds fresh water to my toilets. Looking at
the coupling closely, it was apparent that all four bolts that hold the
two halves of the casing together and to the drive flange on the output
of the gearbox, had sheared. The thumping sound was the rubber blocks
jumping out of their recesses in the casing. On the Yanmar installation
these bolts cannot be replaced without moving the entire engine aft and
sliding the coupling away from the C-Drive, so an at sea repair was out
of the question. I am told that the Volvo installation is easier, but I
never had to do this on my previous boat so I don't know for sure.
Fortunately the wind freshened late in the day and I diverted to Leros
and managed to sail into the anchorage during the night. Two days later
I was towed into Leros marina, where I still am eleven days later.

Not having good enough tools or manpower to move the engine myself, I
made use of the marina mechanics. At the same time I read with concern
the dreadful experiences of Craig and Eric when they tried to remove the
coupling from the C-Drive input shaft. My mechanics experience was no
better. After working on the problem for two days they had succeeded in
moving the shafts apart by no more than 5mm. They said that they would
now have to remove the entire engine to gain enough access to get a
strong enough puller on the job to free the Vetus from the C-Drive. All
this at €50/hour for the labour and €60 per day for the marina. I
suggested they might remove the gearbox from the engine to create enough
space, which they did. Using a heavy duty puller and a 4 foot lever arm
on the compression bolt spanner, the 'Bloody Vetus as Eric named it'
finally came off.

Examining the coupling, the casings looked OK and the rubber blocks were
in not bad shape for an age of 15 years according to the mechanics. The
bolts did not all fail at once, and probably failed due to working loose
or stretching over time. Despite the fact that maybe three bolts were
broken before the final breakdown, there was no noticeable additional
vibration in the transmission even at 3000 rpm that I had used when
clearing the turbo two weeks earlier. Clearly these bolts need to be
examined and checked for tightness on a regular basis.

As the cost of a new coupling was only €297 plus tax and shipping from
Amel, I decided to replace the entire unit for peace of mind. We would
also not have to modify the shaft ourselves to fit the C-Drive. Maud did
a super job with FedEx as far as Athens, but the local courier took far
too long to get the part to Leros. Unfortunately Maud forgot to include
the 4 bolts and nuts, and these are now on the way courtesy of Amel. The
Vetus agent in Greece has no stock! Maybe we could find similar bolts in
a garage for example, but the quality would be uncertain and this is too
crucial an item to risk your boat for.

So why is the coupling to difficult to remove? Like Eric found, the
modified shaft is simply machined to too tight a fit. There is no way
the new coupling will slide on the C-Drive shaft as it comes even though
the C-Drive shaft is in good condition. It would need a press to install
it. It's a keyed fitting and not an interference fit so it should be a
push fit. Like Eric, I have spent considerable time reducing the C-Drive
shaft diameter with wet and dry until the new coupling is a snug hand
fit. Assembled with Corrosion Block grease, next time it should be easy
to remove.

It's the same story with the outhaul capstan drive shaft. It's made too
tight. If you rub it down till it slides in easily, you will not end up
breaking your gearbox trying to remove it. The same again for my
bowthruster tube to drive motor housing. It used to be a devil to
separate. Having opened up the motor recess slightly with a Dremel and
an abrasive wheel, it is no longer a problem. Whilst I have every
confidence in Amel's sub contractors following Amel's design exactly,
the fact is in the corrosive real world we operate in, the tolerances
need to be made greater if we are to avoid going through nightmare
maintenance issues such as these.

Finally, I should point out that unbelievably when you buy a Vetus
coupling from Vetus, the bolts that hold the dammed thing together are
NOT included! You will need to order a SET64 kit separately if you have
a 4" gearbox flange. A SET65 if you have a 5" one. Amel, being a good
company DO include these bolts when you buy from them, but it may be
worthwhile reminding them at order time to make sure they include them
in the box.

To anyone contemplating removing their Vetus coupling from the C-Drive,
be prepared for a difficult time.

Regards and good luck.

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader Leros Greece


 


 


Re: Vetus Coupling Failure

Duane Siegfri
 

Bill,

Could you post those images in the Photos section?  I can't seem to access them from your post.

Thanks,
Duane


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Vetus Coupling Failure

 

Ian,

Did you see the PDF I sent you? It clearly shows the machining that Amel normally does to the Vetus coupling before installation. Amel does this to expedite the installation. Was your coupling machined as pictured in the PDF? The reason I am asking is that I think we all want to know, if when ordering the Vetus coupling from Amel, do we need to specify this Amel-Modification in order to have a smooth installation????




Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Thu, Sep 27, 2018 at 8:15 AM Ian Shepherd sv_freespirit@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Whilst on passage from Naxos Greece to Didim Turkey, the following wind
died to such a level that I had to start my Yanmar engine. I smoothly
set 1700 rpm which is my normal maximum other than when doing the
monthly turbo clean as recommended by Amel. About half an hour later
there was a thumping sound  which at first I thought was a rope getting
wrapped around the prop. But the engine did not stall, so unlikely. I
dived over the side and had a look. No rope, net etc and no marks on the
blades.

The Vetus coupling on my boat is somewhat obscured by by the wooden
plinth that sits on the top of the C-Drive support frame. The plinth
supports the water tank that feeds fresh water to my toilets. Looking at
the coupling closely, it was apparent that all four bolts that hold the
two halves of the casing together and to the drive flange on the output
of the gearbox, had sheared. The thumping sound was the rubber blocks
jumping out of their recesses in the casing. On the Yanmar installation
these bolts cannot be replaced without moving the entire engine aft and
sliding the coupling away from the C-Drive, so an at sea repair was out
of the question. I am told that the Volvo installation is easier, but I
never had to do this on my previous boat so I don't know for sure.
Fortunately the wind freshened late in the day and I diverted to Leros
and managed to sail into the anchorage during the night. Two days later
I was towed into Leros marina, where I still am eleven days later.

Not having good enough tools or manpower to move the engine myself, I
made use of the marina mechanics. At the same time I read with concern
the dreadful experiences of Craig and Eric when they tried to remove the
coupling from the C-Drive input shaft. My mechanics experience was no
better. After working on the problem for two days they had succeeded in
moving the shafts apart by no more than 5mm. They said that they would
now have to remove the entire engine to gain enough access to get a
strong enough puller on the job to free the Vetus from the C-Drive. All
this at €50/hour for the labour and €60 per day for the marina. I
suggested they might remove the gearbox from the engine to create enough
space, which they did. Using a heavy duty puller and a 4 foot lever arm
on the compression bolt spanner, the 'Bloody Vetus as Eric named it'
finally came off.

Examining the coupling, the casings looked OK and the rubber blocks were
in not bad shape for an age of 15 years according to the mechanics. The
bolts did not all fail at once, and probably failed due to working loose
or stretching over time. Despite the fact that maybe three bolts were
broken before the final breakdown, there was no noticeable additional
vibration in the transmission even at 3000 rpm that I had used when
clearing the turbo two weeks earlier. Clearly these bolts need to be
examined and checked for tightness on a regular basis.

As the cost of a new coupling was only €297 plus tax and shipping from
Amel, I decided to replace the entire unit for peace of mind. We would
also not have to modify the shaft ourselves to fit the C-Drive. Maud did
a super job with FedEx as far as Athens, but the local courier took far
too long to get the part to Leros. Unfortunately Maud forgot to include
the 4 bolts and nuts, and these are now on the way courtesy of Amel. The
Vetus agent in Greece has no stock! Maybe we could find similar bolts in
a garage for example, but the quality would be uncertain and this is too
crucial an item to risk your boat for.

So why is the coupling to difficult to remove? Like Eric found, the
modified shaft is simply machined to too tight a fit. There is no way
the new coupling will slide on the C-Drive shaft as it comes even though
the C-Drive shaft is in good condition. It would need a press to install
it. It's a keyed fitting and not an interference fit so it should be a
push fit. Like Eric, I have spent considerable time reducing the C-Drive
shaft diameter with wet and dry until the new coupling is a snug hand
fit. Assembled with Corrosion Block grease, next time it should be easy
to remove.

It's the same story with the outhaul capstan drive shaft. It's made too
tight. If you rub it down till it slides in easily, you will not end up
breaking your gearbox trying to remove it. The same again for my
bowthruster tube to drive motor housing. It used to be a devil to
separate. Having opened up the motor recess slightly with a Dremel and
an abrasive wheel, it is no longer a problem. Whilst I have every
confidence in Amel's sub contractors following Amel's design exactly,
the fact is in the corrosive real world we operate in, the tolerances
need to be made greater if we are to avoid going through nightmare
maintenance issues such as these.

Finally, I should point out that unbelievably when you buy a Vetus
coupling from Vetus, the bolts that hold the dammed thing together are
NOT included! You will need to order a SET64 kit separately if you have
a 4" gearbox flange. A SET65 if you have a 5" one. Amel, being a good
company DO include these bolts when you buy from them, but it may be
worthwhile reminding them at order time to make sure they include them
in the box.

To anyone contemplating removing their Vetus coupling from the C-Drive,
be prepared for a difficult time.

Regards and good luck.

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader Leros Greece


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Mechanics in Leros, Greece

Mark Pitt
 

Hi Bill.
  
  I did not see an attachment to your email about the Vetus coupling.
 
   Regards,
   
   Mark Pitt
   Sabbatical III, SM#419


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Vetus Coupling Failure

Porter McRoberts
 

Ian. I am sorry for your troubles. 
Thank you for your detailed explanation!  
Going through a very similar experience here in Panama. 
Very Best of luck as we work together on this issue yet a half world away!

Porter
A54-152

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Sep 27, 2018, at 7:23 AM, Ian Shepherd sv_freespirit@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Whilst on passage from Naxos Greece to Didim Turkey, the following wind
died to such a level that I had to start my Yanmar engine. I smoothly
set 1700 rpm which is my normal maximum other than when doing the
monthly turbo clean as recommended by Amel. About half an hour later
there was a thumping sound  which at first I thought was a rope getting
wrapped around the prop. But the engine did not stall, so unlikely. I
dived over the side and had a look. No rope, net etc and no marks on the
blades.

The Vetus coupling on my boat is somewhat obscured by by the wooden
plinth that sits on the top of the C-Drive support frame. The plinth
supports the water tank that feeds fresh water to my toilets. Looking at
the coupling closely, it was apparent that all four bolts that hold the
two halves of the casing together and to the drive flange on the output
of the gearbox, had sheared. The thumping sound was the rubber blocks
jumping out of their recesses in the casing. On the Yanmar installation
these bolts cannot be replaced without moving the entire engine aft and
sliding the coupling away from the C-Drive, so an at sea repair was out
of the question. I am told that the Volvo installation is easier, but I
never had to do this on my previous boat so I don't know for sure.
Fortunately the wind freshened late in the day and I diverted to Leros
and managed to sail into the anchorage during the night. Two days later
I was towed into Leros marina, where I still am eleven days later.

Not having good enough tools or manpower to move the engine myself, I
made use of the marina mechanics. At the same time I read with concern
the dreadful experiences of Craig and Eric when they tried to remove the
coupling from the C-Drive input shaft. My mechanics experience was no
better. After working on the problem for two days they had succeeded in
moving the shafts apart by no more than 5mm. They said that they would
now have to remove the entire engine to gain enough access to get a
strong enough puller on the job to free the Vetus from the C-Drive. All
this at €50/hour for the labour and €60 per day for the marina. I
suggested they might remove the gearbox from the engine to create enough
space, which they did. Using a heavy duty puller and a 4 foot lever arm
on the compression bolt spanner, the 'Bloody Vetus as Eric named it'
finally came off.

Examining the coupling, the casings looked OK and the rubber blocks were
in not bad shape for an age of 15 years according to the mechanics. The
bolts did not all fail at once, and probably failed due to working loose
or stretching over time. Despite the fact that maybe three bolts were
broken before the final breakdown, there was no noticeable additional
vibration in the transmission even at 3000 rpm that I had used when
clearing the turbo two weeks earlier. Clearly these bolts need to be
examined and checked for tightness on a regular basis.

As the cost of a new coupling was only €297 plus tax and shipping from
Amel, I decided to replace the entire unit for peace of mind. We would
also not have to modify the shaft ourselves to fit the C-Drive. Maud did
a super job with FedEx as far as Athens, but the local courier took far
too long to get the part to Leros. Unfortunately Maud forgot to include
the 4 bolts and nuts, and these are now on the way courtesy of Amel. The
Vetus agent in Greece has no stock! Maybe we could find similar bolts in
a garage for example, but the quality would be uncertain and this is too
crucial an item to risk your boat for.

So why is the coupling to difficult to remove? Like Eric found, the
modified shaft is simply machined to too tight a fit. There is no way
the new coupling will slide on the C-Drive shaft as it comes even though
the C-Drive shaft is in good condition. It would need a press to install
it. It's a keyed fitting and not an interference fit so it should be a
push fit. Like Eric, I have spent considerable time reducing the C-Drive
shaft diameter with wet and dry until the new coupling is a snug hand
fit. Assembled with Corrosion Block grease, next time it should be easy
to remove.

It's the same story with the outhaul capstan drive shaft. It's made too
tight. If you rub it down till it slides in easily, you will not end up
breaking your gearbox trying to remove it. The same again for my
bowthruster tube to drive motor housing. It used to be a devil to
separate. Having opened up the motor recess slightly with a Dremel and
an abrasive wheel, it is no longer a problem. Whilst I have every
confidence in Amel's sub contractors following Amel's design exactly,
the fact is in the corrosive real world we operate in, the tolerances
need to be made greater if we are to avoid going through nightmare
maintenance issues such as these.

Finally, I should point out that unbelievably when you buy a Vetus
coupling from Vetus, the bolts that hold the dammed thing together are
NOT included! You will need to order a SET64 kit separately if you have
a 4" gearbox flange. A SET65 if you have a 5" one. Amel, being a good
company DO include these bolts when you buy from them, but it may be
worthwhile reminding them at order time to make sure they include them
in the box.

To anyone contemplating removing their Vetus coupling from the C-Drive,
be prepared for a difficult time.

Regards and good luck.

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader Leros Greece


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] model number of CAT pump on watermaker.

Ian Shepherd
 

Bill,

I don't think it was the vibration that broke the bolts. It will of course have caused the ultimate failure, but the fundamental cause was crevice corrosion of the two lower bolts, probably caused by some seepage of seawater from the high pressure seals. I can send you a photo showing the corrosion if you like?

Regards

Ian SM 414 Crusader Leros


On 21/09/2018 21:56, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
 
Ian and everyone with a CAT pump,

There is a lot of vibration on this pump. Those bolts will become loose because of the vibration from the pump...if they get loose, they will shear.  

Check those bolts periodically...I m not sure how often. Both the Inlet Manifold (2) and the Discharge Manifold (4)
It is a M10 allen head bolt that takes a M8 Allen wrench. They should be torqued to 18 foot lbs. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Fri, Sep 21, 2018 at 1:22 PM Ian Shepherd sv_freespirit@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Eric,

it is indeed a model 277. Here is the Dessalator reference, but I know it will me much cheaper in the US.  Complete pump head TET_POMPCAT277_COMP
1 Piece 1 290,65 1 290,65 20,0

I just had mine fail when the heads of two of the four bolts that hold the pump head to the body sheared off. That's stainless for you. When I queried Dessalator about it they blamed it on the vibration of the ship!! My unit had 903 hours on it.

I would strongly advise that these bolts are changed every 700 hours to avoid the expense of a pump rebuild or replacement.

There is a number on the pump body that I can get you tomorrow if you wish.

Cheers

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader Leros Greece


On 21/09/2018 05:58, eric kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
 



Does anyone know the model number of the Cat pump on the 160 lph watermaker?
It was suggested it is model 277.
Fair Winds,
eric
SM 376 Kimberlite



Vetus Coupling Failure

Ian Shepherd
 

Whilst on passage from Naxos Greece to Didim Turkey, the following wind died to such a level that I had to start my Yanmar engine. I smoothly set 1700 rpm which is my normal maximum other than when doing the monthly turbo clean as recommended by Amel. About half an hour later there was a thumping sound  which at first I thought was a rope getting wrapped around the prop. But the engine did not stall, so unlikely. I dived over the side and had a look. No rope, net etc and no marks on the blades.

The Vetus coupling on my boat is somewhat obscured by by the wooden plinth that sits on the top of the C-Drive support frame. The plinth supports the water tank that feeds fresh water to my toilets. Looking at the coupling closely, it was apparent that all four bolts that hold the two halves of the casing together and to the drive flange on the output of the gearbox, had sheared. The thumping sound was the rubber blocks jumping out of their recesses in the casing. On the Yanmar installation these bolts cannot be replaced without moving the entire engine aft and sliding the coupling away from the C-Drive, so an at sea repair was out of the question. I am told that the Volvo installation is easier, but I never had to do this on my previous boat so I don't know for sure. Fortunately the wind freshened late in the day and I diverted to Leros and managed to sail into the anchorage during the night. Two days later I was towed into Leros marina, where I still am eleven days later.

Not having good enough tools or manpower to move the engine myself, I made use of the marina mechanics. At the same time I read with concern the dreadful experiences of Craig and Eric when they tried to remove the coupling from the C-Drive input shaft. My mechanics experience was no better. After working on the problem for two days they had succeeded in moving the shafts apart by no more than 5mm. They said that they would now have to remove the entire engine to gain enough access to get a strong enough puller on the job to free the Vetus from the C-Drive. All this at €50/hour for the labour and €60 per day for the marina. I suggested they might remove the gearbox from the engine to create enough space, which they did. Using a heavy duty puller and a 4 foot lever arm on the compression bolt spanner, the 'Bloody Vetus as Eric named it' finally came off.

Examining the coupling, the casings looked OK and the rubber blocks were in not bad shape for an age of 15 years according to the mechanics. The bolts did not all fail at once, and probably failed due to working loose or stretching over time. Despite the fact that maybe three bolts were broken before the final breakdown, there was no noticeable additional vibration in the transmission even at 3000 rpm that I had used when clearing the turbo two weeks earlier. Clearly these bolts need to be examined and checked for tightness on a regular basis.

As the cost of a new coupling was only €297 plus tax and shipping from Amel, I decided to replace the entire unit for peace of mind. We would also not have to modify the shaft ourselves to fit the C-Drive. Maud did a super job with FedEx as far as Athens, but the local courier took far too long to get the part to Leros. Unfortunately Maud forgot to include the 4 bolts and nuts, and these are now on the way courtesy of Amel. The Vetus agent in Greece has no stock! Maybe we could find similar bolts in a garage for example, but the quality would be uncertain and this is too crucial an item to risk your boat for.

So why is the coupling to difficult to remove? Like Eric found, the modified shaft is simply machined to too tight a fit. There is no way the new coupling will slide on the C-Drive shaft as it comes even though the C-Drive shaft is in good condition. It would need a press to install it. It's a keyed fitting and not an interference fit so it should be a push fit. Like Eric, I have spent considerable time reducing the C-Drive shaft diameter with wet and dry until the new coupling is a snug hand fit. Assembled with Corrosion Block grease, next time it should be easy to remove.

It's the same story with the outhaul capstan drive shaft. It's made too tight. If you rub it down till it slides in easily, you will not end up breaking your gearbox trying to remove it. The same again for my bowthruster tube to drive motor housing. It used to be a devil to separate. Having opened up the motor recess slightly with a Dremel and an abrasive wheel, it is no longer a problem. Whilst I have every confidence in Amel's sub contractors following Amel's design exactly, the fact is in the corrosive real world we operate in, the tolerances need to be made greater if we are to avoid going through nightmare maintenance issues such as these.

Finally, I should point out that unbelievably when you buy a Vetus coupling from Vetus, the bolts that hold the dammed thing together are NOT included! You will need to order a SET64 kit separately if you have a 4" gearbox flange. A SET65 if you have a 5" one. Amel, being a good company DO include these bolts when you buy from them, but it may be worthwhile reminding them at order time to make sure they include them in the box.

To anyone contemplating removing their Vetus coupling from the C-Drive, be prepared for a difficult time.

Regards and good luck.

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader Leros Greece


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Unexplained Explosion On Board

Ian Shepherd
 

Thanks to everyone who replied to my post. I have had a good look around this morning and have inspected the salon a/c unit and the washing machine. No signs of arcing or blown capacitors. The washing machine filter had a small piece of flint stone in it. Everything seems to be working normally now, so I guess there may have been a momentary polarity reversal. At the time I recall that the two marina staff that came to restore the supply box breakers were crouched over the open panel. Maybe they did something simultaneously with the supply that caused a surge or reversal.

If something recurs I will let you know.

Ian SM2K 414 Crusader Leros Greece


On 26/09/2018 17:41, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
 

Hello Ian,
I once had a Capacitor exploding (on the dishwasher).
In my cause it was due to excessive voltage (from my Onan).
Sincerely, Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Wed, 9/26/18, Ian Shepherd sv_freespirit@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Unexplained Explosion On Board
To: "amelyachtowners@..."
Date: Wednesday, September 26, 2018, 8:59 AM


 









Whilst connected to shore power I ran the washing
machine including a

drying cycle. During the drying phase, both the shore power
and the 220V

breaker above the galley tripped. The washing machine had a
filter

warning showing.



Having reset the shore power breaker I then reset the 220V
breaker above

the galley. There was quite a loud explosion that seemed to
come from

the forward port side of the salon and the galley breaker
tripped again.

Trouble shooting has drawn a blank. All a/c units are
working as are the

two under seat freezers, though being 24V they would have
not been the

cause. Having tripped the washing machine breaker the 220V
galley

breaker stayed set, and the washing machine now works again
normally.



I cannot think of any AC equipment in that area of the salon
other than

the a/c unit, but anyway it was switched off at the breaker
at the time.

It is a worry to have not identified the cause of the
problem. I will of

course clean the washing machine filter.



Has anyone else had a similar problem or a suggestion as to
what caused

this explosion?



Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader Leros Greece







Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Unexplained Explosion On Board

Ian Shepherd
 

Bill K,

I think single pole as far as I can tell without taking the 220V panel out. At the time of the bang, two of the marina staff were crouching over the supply box. All seems to be well now.

Regards

Ian SM2K 414 Crusader Leros Greece


On 26/09/2018 17:17, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
 

Ian,


Are the breakers on your 220V panel double pole breakers?  or single pole?

Is it possible that the shore power polarity was reversed? 

Did anyone else on the dock have a problem?

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Mechanics in Leros, Greece

Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Steve,

good to hear from you. I am at Leros marina Lakki on B16 berth. I don't have transport and with a Husky in tow I don't think I can take the bus up to you. It looks like I will be stuck here another week, so if you are down this way, do come over for a drink on board.

Regards

Ian

Crusader


On 26/09/2018 17:09, steve@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
 

Hello, Ian!

I am on "Intention" in the Partheni Yard right next to the office and would love to meet you. I will be hauled out here for the winter doing many repairs including full Bow Thruster overhaul, C-Drive bearing replacements, installing Keel Cooler, painting masts, topsides and hull. 
Steve Bode



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Goit Deck Hatch Lens Reseal

karkauai
 

I’m just about to do one on Kristy, Bill.  It had cracked last year and I had it done professionally by a company in Ft Lauderdale.  They used a clear silicone caulk which leaked a couple months later.

From what I’ve been reading, a glazing sealant by Dow (DC795) is what many professionals use, and what I’m going to use.  My hatch lenses are plexiglass, not acrylic.  I don’t know if DC795 works on acrylic or not.

For what it’s worth, there’s another product called DeBond that was designed to release 3M’s 5200 sealant.  I used it to get the hatch frame off of the deck and it made that job, and cleaning the old sealant off of the frame MUCH easier.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM 243
 

There is a specific silicone for bonding acrylic to aluminum. I forgot which one it was. Last time I called GE silicone division and they gave me the number it is not your regular silicone. Also when I rebuilt my last boat I spoke to the people at Atkins Hoyle. They recommend to prime the edge of the Plexiglas and the frame with toluene . It made the surfaces very sticky and the hatches never leaked. I also used under the genoa cars and the silicone stuck like crazy to it.  Be careful as it is very toxic.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376


On Tue, Sep 25, 2018 at 12:02 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 

Has anyone else had the need to re-seal the lens into one of the Goit deck hatches?  I just had one pop loose.


I've reset the lenses of other brands before, bedding them down in silicone, but just wondering if anyone knows of anything "unusual" about the Goit hatches?


Thanks!


Bill Kinney

Sm160, Harmonie

Annapolis, MD, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Unexplained Explosion On Board

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Hello Ian,
I once had a Capacitor exploding (on the dishwasher).
In my cause it was due to excessive voltage (from my Onan).
Sincerely, Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 9/26/18, Ian Shepherd sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Unexplained Explosion On Board
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 26, 2018, 8:59 AM


 









Whilst connected to shore power I ran the washing
machine including a

drying cycle. During the drying phase, both the shore power
and the 220V

breaker above the galley tripped. The washing machine had a
filter

warning showing.



Having reset the shore power breaker I then reset the 220V
breaker above

the galley. There was quite a loud explosion that seemed to
come from

the forward port side of the salon and the galley breaker
tripped again.

Trouble shooting has drawn a blank. All a/c units are
working as are the

two under seat freezers, though being 24V they would have
not been the

cause. Having tripped the washing machine breaker the 220V
galley

breaker stayed set, and the washing machine now works again
normally.



I cannot think of any AC equipment in that area of the salon
other than

the a/c unit, but anyway it was switched off at the breaker
at the time.

It is a worry to have not identified the cause of the
problem. I will of

course clean the washing machine filter.



Has anyone else had a similar problem or a suggestion as to
what caused

this explosion?



Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader Leros Greece


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Mechanics in Leros, Greece

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Thanks, Ian,

I look forward to reading your account as we will probably renew our coupling in due course. 
Pen Azen is ashore in Kiladha. We should be afloat but this comes to you from Paraguay, not known for its coastline !  Afloat again next April and thinking of hauling in Leros for July and August and maybe for the winter of 19-20 as well, so would be very interested to hear of your experiences there. Pen Azen is in good shape after a refit so we should not need any work done which we can't do ourselves ( famous last words...) 

Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Greece


On 26 Sep 2018, at 09:32, Ian Shepherd sv_freespirit@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi Ian & Judy,

I will write it up very shortly including a recommendation when ordering a new coupling from Amel. I am just waiting for a response from Maud before doing so.

Where are you in Greece?

Regards

Ian Crusader SM2K 414 Leros Greece


On 25/09/2018 23:09, Ian & Judy ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
 

Hi Ian , 


Can you explain the issue with your Vetus coupling ? 

Ian and Judy , Pen Azen , SM 302 Greece 


On 25 Sep 2018, at 08:23, Ian Shepherd sv_freespirit@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hajo,

good to meet you on the dock this morning! Welcome to Leros marina. For the benefit of others who might be considering coming here, I have asked around about the Amel knowledge within the mechanics group. I am told that Panayiotis is very knowledgeable. He is primarily an electrician, but he is also capable of dealing with most things Amel, including rigging. He was previously at Agmar Marine. My mechanic is Manolis who is winning the battle against the Vetus coupling! He seems to be very competent and thorough.

With your arrival, there are now 7 Amels in the marina and another 54 at anchor outside.

Regards

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader


On 25/09/2018 09:57, Amw amw08@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
 
Hi to all supporters,

Thanks a lot to all of you for the valuable informations.
So I am not really at the right spot to let the planned work to be done.

Yes, Bill, I had one of the best teachers 😃 to do the Bowthruster service and I will do it by myself. Best wishes to Judy.

To Ian, maybe we 'll meet here in Leros Marina.

Best regards

Hajo 
SM 150 Serafine
Leros


Von meinem iPad gesendet

Am 23.09.2018 um 18:01 schrieb Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 
Hajo,

Hello to you and Julia!

I do not have anyone to recommend unless Malta is in your plans.

I know that you understand you will be required haul out of the water for C-Drive service. Ans, I know that you know the bow thruster service can be done while in the water.😀

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970


On Sun, Sep 23, 2018 at 9:44 AM Amw amw08@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hello Amelians,

we reserved a winter berth in Leros Marina and next year we have to do some work at the underwater ship ( Antifouling, Prop shaft seals replacement, Bowthruster, possible Volvo TMD 22 check, etc. )

I guess that some of you had been in Leros. So it would be great if someone can give me an advice which mechanics are experienced in Amel yachts here in Leros.

Thank you very much in advance.

Hajo
SM 150 Serafine

Von meinem iPad gesendet

Von meinem iPad gesendet




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