Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchoring in deep water in the S Pacific.

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: 13 August 2018 at 10:08
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchoring in deep water in the S Pacific.

Hi again Kent, just be sure the amount of rope you pay out is say no more than 2/3 of the water depth so when there is no wind and the anchor chain is hanging straight down the rope is well clear of the bottom. You also have to be ware of coral heads or bommies. They come straight up from the bottom and to get rope wrapped around one of those would be fatal. If there are bommies present the rope you pay out must be shorter than the depth of the nearest bommie. In some atolls the coral sand is very soft and very bad holding, In that situation you are likely to be in relatively shallow water. That is where you would need your two anchor system

Regards

Danny

On 13 August 2018 at 09:38 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Thanks Danny, great advice!  I like attaching the line to both anchors.

I assume that with 300 ft of chain, the rope rode will be well above the bottom.  I’m calculating that in 40 meters, I’ll want a total of 42 x 3 = 126 meters or 440 ft...and that’s just 3:1 scope.  That’s a whole new universe for me!

Any reason not to connect the chain to the rode with an eye splice on a thimble and a shackle?

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM 243

On Aug 12, 2018, at 3:48 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi Kent,

I agree with Bill Rouse. In deep water your ratio can be less. One VERY important thing with chain and rode is when anchoring in coral areas your rope portion must be well clear of the bottom otherwise it will be cut by the coral. Connecting the rope to the chain is a simple splice technique. You have to share the strands through two links. They wont all fit through one. To give security make at least six tucks in the splice.. So my rode is permanently attached. Dual anchor systems. I agree with Rocna, your primary anchor should be sized to be adequate and your 40 kg is that.

However if you want two anchors down the best method is tandem. Attach 10 m of chain to the hole in the leading edge of your primary anchor and add the second anchor to that. Then take 13 metes of floating line and attach one end to each anchor. This is to facilitate retrieval. When the primary anchor is back in the roller this rope is used to pull the other in. Its floating line so it wont tangle in the chain when deployed. This tandem system is vastly superior to deploying two anchors separately. The tandem are always in line and both are always fully holding.

Kind Regards

Danny

On 12 August 2018 at 08:49 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Wow, guess I’ve got to devise a good way to add rode to my 300 ft of chain.  Is 250 ft of 1 inch rode on 300 ft of chain enough? That’s less than 6:1.  There was some discussion a while back, but still not comfortable with the transition from chain to rope.  I guess hooking with the snubber line, disconnecting the chain from the locker, pulling it up on deck and shackling it to the rope is about all one can do.  Sounds like a hassle.

Is the bottom in most places amenable to a ROCNA anchor?
I have a big Fortress and a Mantus as spare anchors, but have never used them.

Does anyone have a good way to mount a spare anchor on the rail?

Have you (or anyone else) used two anchors in tandem?  The ROCNA has a place to shackle a chain to the neck, but it would be difficult to get to, and even harder to retrieve. I guess a line with a float attached to the second anchor could be retrieved with a boat hook and hauled aboard with a halyard.  My back is already complaining about hauling it aboard by hand.

Any and all advice, experiences that taught you something, hints, etc greatly appreciated!

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

Hi Kent,

the question was not to me but I have fond memories of time there (Raiatea). I spent a lot of time anchored in 27 meters (90 ft).

Kind Rgards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchoring in deep water in the S Pacific.

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: 13 August 2018 at 13:36
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchoring in deep water in the S Pacific.

Hi Kent.

I've had the rope/ chain set up all the time we've owned her and it stows away perfectly.  We have 100m of each if my memory serves me.

Kind Regards

Danny

On 13 August 2018 at 10:25 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Oh, misunderstanding on my part.  So you leave it all connected and run the rope rode down the hawsepipe into the chain locker and drop the chain in on top of it?  ALAN said his was permanently attached, too, but I didn’t stop to think exactly what that meant.

Seems like the rode wouldn’t go in very efficiently and would fill the bottom of the chain locker. When the chain went in it wouldn’t have the divider there to encourage the chain to flake.  Sounds like a mess in the making.

I had envisioned letting all but about 5m of chain out, snubbing the chain, pulling the chain up out of the locker and attaching the rode to the end.  Reversing that on retrieval.

Either way sounds like a potential problem in the making.

I guess it will all come to be easier than it sounds, but I’ve gotta say, it makes me anxious.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM243

On Aug 12, 2018, at 6:01 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi Kent,

You can't use a thimble and shackle, they wont fit out of the hawse pipe. You have to do a splice onto a thimble anyway so splicing to the chain is no big deal.

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Parl

On 13 August 2018 at 09:38 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Thanks Danny, great advice!  I like attaching the line to both anchors.

I assume that with 300 ft of chain, the rope rode will be well above the bottom.  I’m calculating that in 40 meters, I’ll want a total of 42 x 3 = 126 meters or 440 ft...and that’s just 3:1 scope.  That’s a whole new universe for me!

Any reason not to connect the chain to the rode with an eye splice on a thimble and a shackle?

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM 243

On Aug 12, 2018, at 3:48 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi Kent,

I agree with Bill Rouse. In deep water your ratio can be less. One VERY important thing with chain and rode is when anchoring in coral areas your rope portion must be well clear of the bottom otherwise it will be cut by the coral. Connecting the rope to the chain is a simple splice technique. You have to share the strands through two links. They wont all fit through one. To give security make at least six tucks in the splice.. So my rode is permanently attached. Dual anchor systems. I agree with Rocna, your primary anchor should be sized to be adequate and your 40 kg is that.

However if you want two anchors down the best method is tandem. Attach 10 m of chain to the hole in the leading edge of your primary anchor and add the second anchor to that. Then take 13 metes of floating line and attach one end to each anchor. This is to facilitate retrieval. When the primary anchor is back in the roller this rope is used to pull the other in. Its floating line so it wont tangle in the chain when deployed. This tandem system is vastly superior to deploying two anchors separately. The tandem are always in line and both are always fully holding.

Kind Regards

Danny

On 12 August 2018 at 08:49 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Wow, guess I’ve got to devise a good way to add rode to my 300 ft of chain.  Is 250 ft of 1 inch rode on 300 ft of chain enough? That’s less than 6:1.  There was some discussion a while back, but still not comfortable with the transition from chain to rope.  I guess hooking with the snubber line, disconnecting the chain from the locker, pulling it up on deck and shackling it to the rope is about all one can do.  Sounds like a hassle.

Is the bottom in most places amenable to a ROCNA anchor?
I have a big Fortress and a Mantus as spare anchors, but have never used them.

Does anyone have a good way to mount a spare anchor on the rail?

Have you (or anyone else) used two anchors in tandem?  The ROCNA has a place to shackle a chain to the neck, but it would be difficult to get to, and even harder to retrieve. I guess a line with a float attached to the second anchor could be retrieved with a boat hook and hauled aboard with a halyard.  My back is already complaining about hauling it aboard by hand.

Any and all advice, experiences that taught you something, hints, etc greatly appreciated!

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

Hi Kent,

the question was not to me but I have fond memories of time there (Raiatea). I spent a lot of time anchored in 27 meters (90 ft).

Kind Rgards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Generator exhaust

michael winand

I have a new kubota d11 05 with a sincro sk160.
The hoses are the easy part. Not sure about the skin fittings.

On Sun, 12 Aug 2018 at 23:16, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]
wrote:

MIchael,

Are you installing a name brand generator (Onan, NorthernLights,etc) or are you putting together components yourself? If name brand the installation instructions should certainly cover this clearly and it depends on the genset size.
For example, the older NL 6/4.8kw (which has a Kubota 10hp engine) calls for 40mm throughout and the exhaust elbow is 40mm (the new 6/5kw model has 38mm). Their 12/10kw with a 20hp engine has a 51mm elbow. In general, though, you don't want to introduce a reducer.  If the exhaust elbow is 50mm, then carry that through, unless the manufacturer specifically calls for the reducer (to increase exhaust pressure - unlikely).
Craig, SN68

---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Hi, I am installing a new genset into a super maramu 2000.
The engine is a kubota with a 50mm hose going to the vetas water lock. On the outlet of the water lock the hose reduces to 40mm. This is how the original is installed. It has a reducer 50 to 40mm glued  into the water lock.

Can anyone help with the reasons why the hose is reduced in diameter?
The generator supplier  advised to have a 50mm hose going on the water lock outlet.
Thanks

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Generator exhaust

michael winand

Thanks Bill.
We are installing a sincro sk160  mated to a kubota d11.
It is a little more powerful than the original onan.
The old engine was damaged by corrosion in two cylinders.
The information from the installation people told me that they would not be happy with the way the syphon loop vented to the exhaust system and being in the horizontal plane. Could cause issues. The reduction in size through the water lock would have caused back pressure?
I think that other owners may have been in the same position.
I have a few spare parts from the Onan.

On Mon, 13 Aug 2018 at 0:37, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
wrote:

Michael,

I can not give you an authoritative insight into Amel's reasons for reducing the size of the hose, but...

The total volume of the exhaust hose is a design criteria for the water lock.  The box needs to be able to catch and hold at least one hose full of water without overflowing back to the engine.  If the hose run is long, then they might have needed to neck it down a bit to keep the volumes matched.

If the horsepower of your new genset is equal or less than the original installation, then I would match the exhaust system as originally designed.  If your new genset engine has higher horsepower rating than the original, I'd have an expert on engine installations look it over to be sure the exhaust system is sufficient.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA

---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Hi, I am installing a new genset into a super maramu 2000.
The engine is a kubota with a 50mm hose going to the vetas water lock. On the outlet of the water lock the hose reduces to 40mm. This is how the original is installed. It has a reducer 50 to 40mm glued  into the water lock.

Can anyone help with the reasons why the hose is reduced in diameter?
The generator supplier  advised to have a 50mm hose going on the water lock outlet.
Thanks

Re: main outhaul drive shaft removal

greatketch@...

We removed ours for the first time about a year after we bought the boat when we renewed the seals on the gearboxes. I do not know when the last time it had been taken apart.  The only tool I needed to removed the shaft was... my finger!  I literally just pushed it out.

It had been last assembled with a generous coating of Lanocote. When I put it back together I was not going to argue with success... so more Lanocote was used.

I do not know if there had ever been any previous mechanical modifications to the shaft, key or keyway.

Lanocote is not an especially good lubricant, but it is very good at excluding water, dirt and salt.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Info- calpeda pump for 160 LPH watermaker

greatketch@...

Eric,

When you say you have "not enough pressure" are you talking about the output from the high pressure pump?  Or the pressure between the feed pump and the high pressure pump?

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Info- calpeda pump for 160 LPH watermaker

eric freedman

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Info- calpeda pump for 160 LPH watermaker

No, all I know is what I gave you.

I don't know how you could exceed max pressure if you stay at, or under liters/hour.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Sun, Aug 12, 2018, 17:07 eric kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

HI Bill,
Do you know the the maximum output pressure?
Thanks
Eric

On Sun, Aug 12, 2018 at 05:22 PM, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

Eric,

"The specifications of the low pressure pump are : 300W 900l/h. Best regards Secretary Dessalator Rosyne Castino"

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Commander Emeritus

http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.

On Sun, Aug 12, 2018 at 3:58 PM eric kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Does anyone have the model number of the 160 lph watermaker lift pump for the watermaker.
Is there a distributor in the USA?
Also what are the specs of the pump?
Fair winds,
Eric

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchoring in deep water in the S Pacific.

karkauai

Oh, misunderstanding on my part.  So you leave it all connected and run the rope rode down the hawsepipe into the chain locker and drop the chain in on top of it?  ALAN said his was permanently attached, too, but I didn’t stop to think exactly what that meant.

Seems like the rode wouldn’t go in very efficiently and would fill the bottom of the chain locker. When the chain went in it wouldn’t have the divider there to encourage the chain to flake.  Sounds like a mess in the making.

I had envisioned letting all but about 5m of chain out, snubbing the chain, pulling the chain up out of the locker and attaching the rode to the end.  Reversing that on retrieval.

Either way sounds like a potential problem in the making.

I guess it will all come to be easier than it sounds, but I’ve gotta say, it makes me anxious.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM243

On Aug 12, 2018, at 6:01 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi Kent,

You can't use a thimble and shackle, they wont fit out of the hawse pipe. You have to do a splice onto a thimble anyway so splicing to the chain is no big deal.

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Parl

On 13 August 2018 at 09:38 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Thanks Danny, great advice!  I like attaching the line to both anchors.

I assume that with 300 ft of chain, the rope rode will be well above the bottom.  I’m calculating that in 40 meters, I’ll want a total of 42 x 3 = 126 meters or 440 ft...and that’s just 3:1 scope.  That’s a whole new universe for me!

Any reason not to connect the chain to the rode with an eye splice on a thimble and a shackle?

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM 243

On Aug 12, 2018, at 3:48 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi Kent,

I agree with Bill Rouse. In deep water your ratio can be less. One VERY important thing with chain and rode is when anchoring in coral areas your rope portion must be well clear of the bottom otherwise it will be cut by the coral. Connecting the rope to the chain is a simple splice technique. You have to share the strands through two links. They wont all fit through one. To give security make at least six tucks in the splice.. So my rode is permanently attached. Dual anchor systems. I agree with Rocna, your primary anchor should be sized to be adequate and your 40 kg is that.

However if you want two anchors down the best method is tandem. Attach 10 m of chain to the hole in the leading edge of your primary anchor and add the second anchor to that. Then take 13 metes of floating line and attach one end to each anchor. This is to facilitate retrieval. When the primary anchor is back in the roller this rope is used to pull the other in. Its floating line so it wont tangle in the chain when deployed. This tandem system is vastly superior to deploying two anchors separately. The tandem are always in line and both are always fully holding.

Kind Regards

Danny

On 12 August 2018 at 08:49 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Wow, guess I’ve got to devise a good way to add rode to my 300 ft of chain.  Is 250 ft of 1 inch rode on 300 ft of chain enough? That’s less than 6:1.  There was some discussion a while back, but still not comfortable with the transition from chain to rope.  I guess hooking with the snubber line, disconnecting the chain from the locker, pulling it up on deck and shackling it to the rope is about all one can do.  Sounds like a hassle.

Is the bottom in most places amenable to a ROCNA anchor?
I have a big Fortress and a Mantus as spare anchors, but have never used them.

Does anyone have a good way to mount a spare anchor on the rail?

Have you (or anyone else) used two anchors in tandem?  The ROCNA has a place to shackle a chain to the neck, but it would be difficult to get to, and even harder to retrieve. I guess a line with a float attached to the second anchor could be retrieved with a boat hook and hauled aboard with a halyard.  My back is already complaining about hauling it aboard by hand.

Any and all advice, experiences that taught you something, hints, etc greatly appreciated!

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

Hi Kent,

the question was not to me but I have fond memories of time there (Raiatea). I spent a lot of time anchored in 27 meters (90 ft).

Kind Rgards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Info- calpeda pump for 160 LPH watermaker

eric freedman

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchoring in deep water in the S Pacific.

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS

Hi Kent,

You can't use a thimble and shackle, they wont fit out of the hawse pipe. You have to do a splice onto a thimble anyway so splicing to the chain is no big deal.

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Parl

On 13 August 2018 at 09:38 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Thanks Danny, great advice!  I like attaching the line to both anchors.

I assume that with 300 ft of chain, the rope rode will be well above the bottom.  I’m calculating that in 40 meters, I’ll want a total of 42 x 3 = 126 meters or 440 ft...and that’s just 3:1 scope.  That’s a whole new universe for me!

Any reason not to connect the chain to the rode with an eye splice on a thimble and a shackle?

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM 243

On Aug 12, 2018, at 3:48 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi Kent,

I agree with Bill Rouse. In deep water your ratio can be less. One VERY important thing with chain and rode is when anchoring in coral areas your rope portion must be well clear of the bottom otherwise it will be cut by the coral. Connecting the rope to the chain is a simple splice technique. You have to share the strands through two links. They wont all fit through one. To give security make at least six tucks in the splice.. So my rode is permanently attached. Dual anchor systems. I agree with Rocna, your primary anchor should be sized to be adequate and your 40 kg is that.

However if you want two anchors down the best method is tandem. Attach 10 m of chain to the hole in the leading edge of your primary anchor and add the second anchor to that. Then take 13 metes of floating line and attach one end to each anchor. This is to facilitate retrieval. When the primary anchor is back in the roller this rope is used to pull the other in. Its floating line so it wont tangle in the chain when deployed. This tandem system is vastly superior to deploying two anchors separately. The tandem are always in line and both are always fully holding.

Kind Regards

Danny

On 12 August 2018 at 08:49 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Wow, guess I’ve got to devise a good way to add rode to my 300 ft of chain.  Is 250 ft of 1 inch rode on 300 ft of chain enough? That’s less than 6:1.  There was some discussion a while back, but still not comfortable with the transition from chain to rope.  I guess hooking with the snubber line, disconnecting the chain from the locker, pulling it up on deck and shackling it to the rope is about all one can do.  Sounds like a hassle.

Is the bottom in most places amenable to a ROCNA anchor?
I have a big Fortress and a Mantus as spare anchors, but have never used them.

Does anyone have a good way to mount a spare anchor on the rail?

Have you (or anyone else) used two anchors in tandem?  The ROCNA has a place to shackle a chain to the neck, but it would be difficult to get to, and even harder to retrieve. I guess a line with a float attached to the second anchor could be retrieved with a boat hook and hauled aboard with a halyard.  My back is already complaining about hauling it aboard by hand.

Any and all advice, experiences that taught you something, hints, etc greatly appreciated!

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

Hi Kent,

the question was not to me but I have fond memories of time there (Raiatea). I spent a lot of time anchored in 27 meters (90 ft).

Kind Rgards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

Free stainless steel snake

eric freedman

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchoring in deep water in the S Pacific.

karkauai

Thanks Danny, great advice!  I like attaching the line to both anchors.

I assume that with 300 ft of chain, the rope rode will be well above the bottom.  I’m calculating that in 40 meters, I’ll want a total of 42 x 3 = 126 meters or 440 ft...and that’s just 3:1 scope.  That’s a whole new universe for me!

Any reason not to connect the chain to the rode with an eye splice on a thimble and a shackle?

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM 243

On Aug 12, 2018, at 3:48 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi Kent,

I agree with Bill Rouse. In deep water your ratio can be less. One VERY important thing with chain and rode is when anchoring in coral areas your rope portion must be well clear of the bottom otherwise it will be cut by the coral. Connecting the rope to the chain is a simple splice technique. You have to share the strands through two links. They wont all fit through one. To give security make at least six tucks in the splice. So my rode is permanently attached. Dual anchor systems. I agree with Rocna, your primary anchor should be sized to be adequate and your 40 kg is that.

However if you want two anchors down the best method is tandem. Attach 10 m of chain to the hole in the leading edge of your primary anchor and add the second anchor to that. Then take 13 metes of floating line and attach one end to each anchor. This is to facilitate retrieval. When the primary anchor is back in the roller this rope is used to pull the other in. Its floating line so it wont tangle in the chain when deployed. This tandem system is vastly superior to deploying two anchors separately. The tandem are always in line and both are always fully holding.

Kind Regards

Danny

On 12 August 2018 at 08:49 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Wow, guess I’ve got to devise a good way to add rode to my 300 ft of chain.  Is 250 ft of 1 inch rode on 300 ft of chain enough? That’s less than 6:1.  There was some discussion a while back, but still not comfortable with the transition from chain to rope.  I guess hooking with the snubber line, disconnecting the chain from the locker, pulling it up on deck and shackling it to the rope is about all one can do.  Sounds like a hassle.

Is the bottom in most places amenable to a ROCNA anchor?
I have a big Fortress and a Mantus as spare anchors, but have never used them.

Does anyone have a good way to mount a spare anchor on the rail?

Have you (or anyone else) used two anchors in tandem?  The ROCNA has a place to shackle a chain to the neck, but it would be difficult to get to, and even harder to retrieve. I guess a line with a float attached to the second anchor could be retrieved with a boat hook and hauled aboard with a halyard.  My back is already complaining about hauling it aboard by hand.

Any and all advice, experiences that taught you something, hints, etc greatly appreciated!

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

Hi Kent,

the question was not to me but I have fond memories of time there (Raiatea). I spent a lot of time anchored in 27 meters (90 ft).

Kind Rgards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Info- calpeda pump for 160 LPH watermaker

Eric,

"The specifications of the low pressure pump are : 300W 900l/h. Best regards Secretary Dessalator Rosyne Castino"

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Commander Emeritus

http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.

On Sun, Aug 12, 2018 at 3:58 PM eric kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Does anyone have the model number of the 160 lph watermaker lift pump for the watermaker.
Is there a distributor in the USA?
Also what are the specs of the pump?
Fair winds,
Eric

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchoring in deep water in the S Pacific.

Alan Leslie

Before considering using two anchors, everyone should read this :

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437

Info- calpeda pump for 160 LPH watermaker

eric freedman

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] main outhaul drive shaft removal

eric freedman

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New ultrasonic DST sesnor from AIRMAR

Alan Leslie

I think its much simpler, merely a pulse train.
Its the same for the "Ultrasonic" connection.
I put in an Airmar Ultrasonic speed transducer and connected it to the "Ultrasonic" connectors on the Hydra 2000. In the setup menu there's a calibration page where you can change the no. of pulses (frequency) per knot to calibrate the sensor.
If this new one is NMEA 0183 or 2000 it won;t work with the B&G Hydra 2000. But it will work with other brands that have NMEA0183 and/or 2000 interface capability.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse Sm437

Re: Battery wires under step to mid ship cabin

Alan Leslie

Hi Eric
I don't know what the black stuff is....ours is beige !
BUT I drilled a hole throughb the wall for the voltage and temp sensor wires for the new battery chargers.
Drilling the hole and sealing it up isn;t the issue, it's finding the wires in the engine room once you've pushed them through!
I just used 5200 to seal it up
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] main outhaul drive shaft removal [1 Attachment]

Mike Ondra

Hi Eric,
Interestingly sanded and dry, our shaft is just a tiny bit loose and slides in and out quite easily. Yet lubricated and after a year, tough to remove. I think the operative directive here is removing, cleaning, and lubricating at a 6 month interval. Do you think some sort of protective covering to keep most of the water out would help?
Mike
Aletes SM#240
Rock Hall, MD

 17181 - 17200 of 58572