Date   
Re: B&G wind sensor

Willem Kroes
 

It is a little bit late Bill, but thanks for your reaction. I was very lucky that I found on Ebay a new older unit offered for a reasonable price and the person who sold it was living 30 km from the marina in Vilagarcia in the Rio de Aroussa. He came with the unit to the marina and it turned out he was a former B&G dealer in Vigo clearing his garage. He now is a skipper on large sailboats and he offered to replace the unit himself. Within 20 minutes he did the job and the windmeter now works fine. He told me that after quite a few years of service the PCB inside the mast top unit can fail, but it is possible to repair by replacing the PCB if you can find one.

Kind regards,

Willem Kroes
SM2k #351 "Kavanga"

Currently at dry standing in the boatyard of the Marina de Combarro (Ria de Pontevedra)

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Clorox

greatketch@...
 

Always good for a bang!

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Going North in December

Mark Erdos
 

Chuck and Kim,

 

It is not a good idea to be in the gulfstream with any aspect of a north wind. I would suggest you wait for a good window with a couple of days of easterly winds and go for it. With the gulf stream current and a 15kt E wind you should easily make 8 kts ground speed – 48hrs.

 

However, If you have time there are a couple of fun places to stop along the coast: St. Augustine, Fernandina, Cumberland Island etc.  

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2017 11:26 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Going North in December

 

 

Hi All,

I know many of you have traveled North along the Florida coast during various parts of the year. A little advice requested. I will be moving my boat from Ft. Lauderdale to Brunswick, GA. We will be moving it in early December. That brings the prospect of North winds against the Gulf Stream (December pilot charts and conventional wisdom seem to indicate this). Is there a general consensus as to a straight shot (~2.5 days). Daily hops (~5-6 days) or a combination depending on 3-5 day forecasts. Just don't want to get caught out at night in a bad blow and have to find shelter in a skinny poorly marked inlet. This stretch is unfamiliar to me. I researched acceptable inlets so there are a number to choose from. 

 

Thanks for your time.

 

Chuck & Kim

s/v Joy #388

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Copper and clorox

eric freedman
 

Thanks Joel

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2017 12:24 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Copper and clorox

 

 

Maybe it was fulminate of mercury....

 

No shit Eric, Clorox is deadly to the”brass/copper/bronze” holding tank exits. When you check them, if you have tiny ‘teardrops’ of dark brown material, that means they fail catastrophically very soon. Trust me, I have been through it 20++ times and what a horrible repair!

 

Have seen the hose problem. Also, inspect the weld on the arm holding the intercooler as they are failing with greater frequency these days. Makes for an awful fall.

 

Have fun Eric! 

JOEL F. POTTER

CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST LLC

Office 954-462-5869 


On Oct 12, 2017, at 10:09 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Hi Joel,

I believe sodium hypochlorite is Clorox,  We use it sometimes in high  alloy gold castings to create an aged finish (patina).

I use it infrequently and always flush everything with water and always offshore . The Clorox mix only stays in the piping for 12 hours and then overboard. Works for me so far but that is a survey of 1.

I like the idea of vinegar in the bilge.

 

Just as an additional thought, I found that the rubber hoses that connects the metallic pipes of the intercooler on the 4jh3hte to the Turbo and the intake manifold had split. It is very difficult to see as the cracks are small. However I saw an increase in performance immediately when the hoses were changed. They crack due to the step that is on the top of the intercooler. After many times in and out of the engine room the hose wears out.

Just my finding for the day.  Have you seen this before?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2017 1:19 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

 

 

Hi Eric. CLOROX/calcium chloride has an extremely deleterious effect on the ‘mystery metal’ which seems to be more copper than bronze, on the outlets of the holding tanks. When I get a new listing, I check to see if any toilet cleaner products are aboard with calcium chloride as an ingredient. More often than not if these are used, I can then find small pin hole leaks on the pipes exiting the holding tanks to the through hull valves. Often these pipes are in full failure. Replacement is not fun, easy or in any way pleasant and rewarding. It is, quite literally, a crappy job as those of us who have done it can attest.

 

On the initiation schooling I give to all my’ new to them’ Amel owners, I strongly suggest not to even have CLOROX aboard. It is an extreme oxidizer and chews up rubber seals and pump parts, the copper strap in the bilge sump joining the iron ballast to the zincs, and accelerates aging on almost everything it touches.

 

White vinegar is a softer solution. Not as good in some cases, but not as ugly and aggressive either.

 

Have fun with your Amel, Joel

 

Joel F. Potter/Cruising Yacht Specialist LLC

THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

954 462 5869 office

954 812 2485 cell

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2017 9:32 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

 

 

I had a similar problem when I originally received Kimberlite from Amel. It was delivered with electric toilets.

 

The solution I found was to hold down the red flush button for 10 seconds.

This puts just salt water in the hose and whatever came out of the toilet is now in the tank and

just salt water returns to the bowl. You might try pumping the toilet more to get just salt water in the hose.

I also originally had to change the toilet to tank hose every few years due to permeation of odor in the hose. Now with a 10 second flush I have not had to change the hose in over 10 years.

 

I have 2 problems with the electric toilet.

When the boats sits for a few days the salt water in the tubing has a sulfur dioxide odor for the first flush—very smelly. Possibly someone else has a better solution, for us I add Clorox to the sea chest with water and operate the toilet until I smell Clorox. I let this sit for 12 hours.  The water comes out black on the first flush and then no more smell for a while. I bought the fresh water flush valve and initially intended to use it for a fresh water flush. However I hate to waste fresh water , so I stayed with salt water.

 

The other problem is the weakness of the base of the toilet. I have had to replace the forward base twice. Probably because we make passages with three other people and it gets more use.

 

Any suggestions to solve these issues?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2017 8:28 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

 

 

I cannot address the electric head issue, as we have manual Jabsco’s. Our boat was right on the cusp of switching from manual to electric. 

That said, after having owned our fair ship for 8 years, I would like to solicit others’ experience. 

We have two standard manual Jabsco’s. Do other SM owners with manual heads also have Jabsco’s?

I ask that, because they have been such a huge problem for us. I know that heads are often at the top of the list for maintaining. 

However, ours have been particularly gruesome The positioning of the holding tanks nearly a meter above the bottom of the head means a constant battle to prevent black water (extreme euphemism) from flowing back into the bowl, at times filling it. In the dark, the ladies can be very rudely surprised. 

We have tried almost everything: changing joker (tricuspid) valves every month, purchasing the newer Jabsco “lock” handle mechanism, and finally putting an extra in-line valve between the head and the holding tank. 

It is quite a bit better, but gravity still sometimes wins. 

Are we alone? 

Appreciate any feedback from this invaluable forum (for non-native English speakers, invaluable doesn’t mean not valuable, but rather extremely valuable). Don’t ask me why, not sure. For example, inhospitable means “not hospitable”, but inflammable means “extremely flammable”. 

But I digress. Thanks again as always. 

 

Tom Peacock

SM 240Aletes

Rock Hall, Maryland

Departing for Antigua November 3

 


On Oct 11, 2017, at 7:52 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Ian and Margaret,

 

Like you, our SM has two factory installed manual heads.  We are happy with them and have no plans to change them.

 

My experience with the Jabsco electric heads is very limited, and pretty much all bad--in some cases really bad! My sample size is small, and they really can't be as bad my impressions...  but I wouldn't go that way.

 

For 15 years I lived on a boat that had a Sealand Vacuflush.  It was fantastic.  Reliable.  If flushed with a tiny, tiny bit of fresh water (really important with Amel's tiny, tiny holding tanks!) 

 

If I wanted to swap out to electric heads that would be the way I would go without a second thought.  Installation in an Amel would take a bit of thinking, but they have lots of configuration options.

 

Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Back Creek, Annapolis, MD

---In amelyachtowners@..., <smlocalola@...> wrote :

Our SM has two manual heads, both Jabsco. We are looking at Installing Jabsco Quiet Flush Electric Heads. They seem to fit the SM head floor pan cut out nicely. Any opinions on number of electric heads? Two electric or one+manual? Other things we should consider?






Ian & Margaret

SM153

Loca Lola II 

New River, Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Clorox

amelforme
 

Wish I could blame my iPhone auto correct. I meant fulminate of mercury ...

JOEL F. POTTER
CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST LLC
Office 954-462-5869 

On Oct 12, 2017, at 2:11 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Joel,


Your chemical engineer on call suggests that you might be looking for calcium hypochlorite rather than calcium chloride.

Other than that...  just like you said!

Bill Kinney
Sm160, Harmonie
Back Creek, Annapolis, MD


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Copper and clorox

amelforme
 

Maybe it was fulminate of mercury....

No shit Eric, Clorox is deadly to the”brass/copper/bronze” holding tank exits. When you check them, if you have tiny ‘teardrops’ of dark brown material, that means they fail catastrophically very soon. Trust me, I have been through it 20++ times and what a horrible repair!

Have seen the hose problem. Also, inspect the weld on the arm holding the intercooler as they are failing with greater frequency these days. Makes for an awful fall.

Have fun Eric! 

JOEL F. POTTER
CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST LLC
Office 954-462-5869 

On Oct 12, 2017, at 10:09 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Hi Joel,

I believe sodium hypochlorite is Clorox,  We use it sometimes in high  alloy gold castings to create an aged finish (patina).

I use it infrequently and always flush everything with water and always offshore . The Clorox mix only stays in the piping for 12 hours and then overboard. Works for me so far but that is a survey of 1.

I like the idea of vinegar in the bilge.

 

Just as an additional thought, I found that the rubber hoses that connects the metallic pipes of the intercooler on the 4jh3hte to the Turbo and the intake manifold had split. It is very difficult to see as the cracks are small. However I saw an increase in performance immediately when the hoses were changed. They crack due to the step that is on the top of the intercooler. After many times in and out of the engine room the hose wears out.

Just my finding for the day.  Have you seen this before?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2017 1:19 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

 

 

Hi Eric. CLOROX/calcium chloride has an extremely deleterious effect on the ‘mystery metal’ which seems to be more copper than bronze, on the outlets of the holding tanks. When I get a new listing, I check to see if any toilet cleaner products are aboard with calcium chloride as an ingredient. More often than not if these are used, I can then find small pin hole leaks on the pipes exiting the holding tanks to the through hull valves. Often these pipes are in full failure. Replacement is not fun, easy or in any way pleasant and rewarding. It is, quite literally, a crappy job as those of us who have done it can attest.

 

On the initiation schooling I give to all my’ new to them’ Amel owners, I strongly suggest not to even have CLOROX aboard. It is an extreme oxidizer and chews up rubber seals and pump parts, the copper strap in the bilge sump joining the iron ballast to the zincs, and accelerates aging on almost everything it touches.

 

White vinegar is a softer solution. Not as good in some cases, but not as ugly and aggressive either.

 

Have fun with your Amel, Joel

 

Joel F. Potter/Cruising Yacht Specialist LLC

THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

954 462 5869 office

954 812 2485 cell

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2017 9:32 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

 

 

I had a similar problem when I originally received Kimberlite from Amel. It was delivered with electric toilets.

 

The solution I found was to hold down the red flush button for 10 seconds.

This puts just salt water in the hose and whatever came out of the toilet is now in the tank and

just salt water returns to the bowl. You might try pumping the toilet more to get just salt water in the hose.

I also originally had to change the toilet to tank hose every few years due to permeation of odor in the hose. Now with a 10 second flush I have not had to change the hose in over 10 years.

 

I have 2 problems with the electric toilet.

When the boats sits for a few days the salt water in the tubing has a sulfur dioxide odor for the first flush—very smelly. Possibly someone else has a better solution, for us I add Clorox to the sea chest with water and operate the toilet until I smell Clorox. I let this sit for 12 hours.  The water comes out black on the first flush and then no more smell for a while. I bought the fresh water flush valve and initially intended to use it for a fresh water flush. However I hate to waste fresh water , so I stayed with salt water.

 

The other problem is the weakness of the base of the toilet. I have had to replace the forward base twice. Probably because we make passages with three other people and it gets more use.

 

Any suggestions to solve these issues?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2017 8:28 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

 

 

I cannot address the electric head issue, as we have manual Jabsco’s. Our boat was right on the cusp of switching from manual to electric. 

That said, after having owned our fair ship for 8 years, I would like to solicit others’ experience. 

We have two standard manual Jabsco’s. Do other SM owners with manual heads also have Jabsco’s?

I ask that, because they have been such a huge problem for us. I know that heads are often at the top of the list for maintaining. 

However, ours have been particularly gruesome The positioning of the holding tanks nearly a meter above the bottom of the head means a constant battle to prevent black water (extreme euphemism) from flowing back into the bowl, at times filling it. In the dark, the ladies can be very rudely surprised. 

We have tried almost everything: changing joker (tricuspid) valves every month, purchasing the newer Jabsco “lock” handle mechanism, and finally putting an extra in-line valve between the head and the holding tank. 

It is quite a bit better, but gravity still sometimes wins. 

Are we alone? 

Appreciate any feedback from this invaluable forum (for non-native English speakers, invaluable doesn’t mean not valuable, but rather extremely valuable). Don’t ask me why, not sure. For example, inhospitable means “not hospitable”, but inflammable means “extremely flammable”. 

But I digress. Thanks again as always. 

 

Tom Peacock

SM 240Aletes

Rock Hall, Maryland

Departing for Antigua November 3

 


On Oct 11, 2017, at 7:52 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Ian and Margaret,

 

Like you, our SM has two factory installed manual heads.  We are happy with them and have no plans to change them.

 

My experience with the Jabsco electric heads is very limited, and pretty much all bad--in some cases really bad! My sample size is small, and they really can't be as bad my impressions...  but I wouldn't go that way.

 

For 15 years I lived on a boat that had a Sealand Vacuflush.  It was fantastic.  Reliable.  If flushed with a tiny, tiny bit of fresh water (really important with Amel's tiny, tiny holding tanks!) 

 

If I wanted to swap out to electric heads that would be the way I would go without a second thought.  Installation in an Amel would take a bit of thinking, but they have lots of configuration options.

 

Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Back Creek, Annapolis, MD

---In amelyachtowners@..., <smlocalola@...> wrote :

Our SM has two manual heads, both Jabsco. We are looking at Installing Jabsco Quiet Flush Electric Heads. They seem to fit the SM head floor pan cut out nicely. Any opinions on number of electric heads? Two electric or one+manual? Other things we should consider?





Ian & Margaret

SM153

Loca Lola II 

New River, Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Going North in December

Stephen Davis
 

Hi Chuck and Kim,

This is an easy trip which I have done several times, and all it requires is a little patience. You have excellent weather forecast in your part of the world, and you only need to wait until you get a good couple day forecast with winds not out of the north. It may take a week or more that time of the year to get the right weather, so don't rush it. 

I recommend you do the trip non stop in order to use the gulf stream to your advantage. Leave Ft Lauderdale in the morning, head straight into the stream, and ride it north until about abeam St Augustine. You will be a little over 50 miles offshore at that point, and you should now set your course straight to Brunswick, which will quickly take you out of the steam. If anything, you may have to slow a bit to arrive in daylight on morning 3. Don't forget to have your fishing gear ready, as its good fishing in the stream. 

Regards,

Steve Davis
Aloha SM72
Santa Marta, Columbia

On Oct 13, 2017, at 10:25, clacey9@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi All,

I know many of you have traveled North along the Florida coast during various parts of the year. A little advice requested. I will be moving my boat from Ft. Lauderdale to Brunswick, GA. We will be moving it in early December. That brings the prospect of North winds against the Gulf Stream (December pilot charts and conventional wisdom seem to indicate this). Is there a general consensus as to a straight shot (~2.5 days). Daily hops (~5-6 days) or a combination depending on 3-5 day forecasts. Just don't want to get caught out at night in a bad blow and have to find shelter in a skinny poorly marked inlet. This stretch is unfamiliar to me. I researched acceptable inlets so there are a number to choose from. 


Thanks for your time.


Chuck & Kim

s/v Joy #388

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Electric Heads

Jean-Pierre's MacBook Air <jgermain@...>
 

Hello Gerhard,

Earlier in this this thread, I stated that RM69’s on my early SM are very reliable.  Still being offered in NL.

FWIW, I had the Jabsco on my previous boat and the RM69’s are far more reliable.  

Jean-Pierre Germain
SY Eleuthera, SM007



On 13 Oct 2017, at 10:50, Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


I think I'm going to try adding the locking Jabsco head (and maybe valve) before I resort to a big change like adding a Lavac.  If they work for a year, I'm willing to do some maintenance once a year.  Besides, that's keeping with the "don't change anything for a year" rule, right? :D

Tom, do you know the part numbers of the things you installed?

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA

On Fri, Oct 13, 2017 at 10:11 AM, carcodespam@... <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

Change for a Lavac Vaccum and you have never to think about it.

Gerhard




Going North in December

Chuck_Kim_Joy
 

Hi All,

I know many of you have traveled North along the Florida coast during various parts of the year. A little advice requested. I will be moving my boat from Ft. Lauderdale to Brunswick, GA. We will be moving it in early December. That brings the prospect of North winds against the Gulf Stream (December pilot charts and conventional wisdom seem to indicate this). Is there a general consensus as to a straight shot (~2.5 days). Daily hops (~5-6 days) or a combination depending on 3-5 day forecasts. Just don't want to get caught out at night in a bad blow and have to find shelter in a skinny poorly marked inlet. This stretch is unfamiliar to me. I researched acceptable inlets so there are a number to choose from. 


Thanks for your time.


Chuck & Kim

s/v Joy #388

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

Ryan Meador
 

I think I'm going to try adding the locking Jabsco head (and maybe valve) before I resort to a big change like adding a Lavac.  If they work for a year, I'm willing to do some maintenance once a year.  Besides, that's keeping with the "don't change anything for a year" rule, right? :D

Tom, do you know the part numbers of the things you installed?

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA

On Fri, Oct 13, 2017 at 10:11 AM, carcodespam@... <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

Change for a Lavac Vaccum and you have never to think about it.

Gerhard


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

carcodespam@icloud.com <no_reply@...>
 

Change for a Lavac Vaccum and you have never to think about it.

Gerhard

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
 

Of course, the underlying problem is that we are all violating the basic tenants of Plumbing 101, namely, hot's on the left, cold's on the right and shit don't run uphill.
Cheers,
Craig

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
 


Hi Ryan,
I switched to the pumps with the locking handle. It seemed to work better initially, but after one season it's just as bad as the original. Need to constantly replace joker & rubber locking piece. IMHO it's just a crappy product.
Craig SN#68 Sangaris

---In amelyachtowners@..., <ryan.d.meador@...> wrote :

I have Jabsco manual heads on my boat, and both of them exhibit the black water backflow problem Tom mentioned.  I was advised by the previous owner to flush extra seawater through so when (not if) they backflow, it will be "clean" water.  This works to a point.  If the holding tank is sufficiently full, it will backflow seemingly directly from the tank.  I suspect this is when the level of waste in the tank rises above the level of the discharge hose from the head, allowing it to siphon backwards until the level drops again.  I do not have a solution except to get pumped out more often.  I was considering swapping the heads for the version with the locking handle, does that really not work?  It seems like it should.  I'd love a better solution!

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration

On Thu, Oct 12, 2017 at 2:11 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Joel,


Your chemical engineer on call suggests that you might be looking for calcium hypochlorite rather than calcium chloride.

Other than that...  just like you said!

Bill Kinney
Sm160, Harmonie
Back Creek, Annapolis, MD



Which engine mount model was used on SM's with Volvo engines

Willem Kroes
 

Hi all,


The engine mounts between the steel cradle on which the engine and gearbox are mounted on my SM # 351 need te be replaced by new ones. After consulting Mr. Olivier Beaute it turned out that Amel used the older engine mounts, called 'Suspension hydro mounts for Perkins M80', also for a period of time after they changed from installing Volvo Penta  to Yanmar engines.

The importing company of Perkins in the Netherlands can't recognise these mounts from a photo that I also attach to this message.

Can anybody recognise this type of engine mount?

Thanks in advance for your reactions!

Willem Kroes

SM 2k #351 "Kavanga"




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

greatketch@...
 

While we are on the subject of manual heads, a maintenance suggestion.

You have probably been told and read to flush various kinds of vegetable oil to "lubricate" the parts and to keep the rubber bits from "drying out."  Do NOT do this.  It has been repeated so often it is accepted as "true", but that doesn't make it so.

It has no beneficial effect on the rubber parts, and is a rather poor and short lasting lubricant.  Oil can contribute to clogging up the holding tank as it saponifies into sticky gooey fatty acids.  Leave the vegetable oil in the galley where it belongs.

Instead, remove the pump plunger.  This is easily done on the toilets with the locking handle, use push down and unscrew the top of the pump.  Lift out the piston assembly.  Put a very small amount of silicon grease on the o-ring that sits on the rim of the piston, a tiny bit more on the stainless steel shaft, and one more spot on the o-ring on the fitting you unscrewed. Using more than a thin layer will work no better and last no longer. Put it all back together and be amazed at how smoothly it works!  

Repeat anytime the pump starts to feel stiff. On our boat, in daily use, we find this is about a month or so. Your o-rings will last a lot longer when they are properly lubricated.

For silicone grease, I use Dow Corning Molykote 111 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WDU1J8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B002WDU1J8&linkCode=as2&tag=fetchinketch-20&linkId=90783fa8fbc07fc736541dcb41629593

A 5 oz tube for less than $20 will last two forevers on a boat, it is good for every rubber o-ring and seal you have.  It is the same stuff you can find at plumbing suppliers and dive shops repackaged into smaller containers.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Back Creek, Annapolis, MD

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

greatketch@...
 

Eric,

Exactly.

Calcium hypochlorite is "solid chlorine."  Used in "pool chlorine" and in some powdered "beaching" cleaners. Also used in "drop in the tank" toilet cleaners.  The calcium salt has limited solubility in water.

As a 3-5% solution in water Sodium hypochlorite is "Chlorox."  I have never seen it as a solid, and if my memory serves, it not safely stable in anhydrous form.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Back Creek, Annapolis, MD


---In amelyachtowners@..., <kimberlite@...> wrote :

Isn’t calcium hypochlorite usually uses as a powder and sodium hypochlorite usually used as a liquid?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2017 2:11 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

 

 

Joel,

 

Your chemical engineer on call suggests that you might be looking for calcium hypochlorite rather than calcium chloride.

 

Other than that...  just like you said!

 

Bill Kinney

Sm160, Harmonie

Back Creek, Annapolis, MD

 

 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

eric freedman
 

Isn’t calcium hypochlorite usually uses as a powder and sodium hypochlorite usually used as a liquid?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2017 2:11 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

 

 

Joel,

 

Your chemical engineer on call suggests that you might be looking for calcium hypochlorite rather than calcium chloride.

 

Other than that...  just like you said!

 

Bill Kinney

Sm160, Harmonie

Back Creek, Annapolis, MD

 

 

Copper and clorox

eric freedman
 

 

Hi Joel,

I believe sodium hypochlorite is Clorox,  We use it sometimes in high  alloy gold castings to create an aged finish (patina).

I use it infrequently and always flush everything with water and always offshore . The Clorox mix only stays in the piping for 12 hours and then overboard. Works for me so far but that is a survey of 1.

I like the idea of vinegar in the bilge.

 

Just as an additional thought, I found that the rubber hoses that connects the metallic pipes of the intercooler on the 4jh3hte to the Turbo and the intake manifold had split. It is very difficult to see as the cracks are small. However I saw an increase in performance immediately when the hoses were changed. They crack due to the step that is on the top of the intercooler. After many times in and out of the engine room the hose wears out.

Just my finding for the day.  Have you seen this before?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2017 1:19 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

 

 

Hi Eric. CLOROX/calcium chloride has an extremely deleterious effect on the ‘mystery metal’ which seems to be more copper than bronze, on the outlets of the holding tanks. When I get a new listing, I check to see if any toilet cleaner products are aboard with calcium chloride as an ingredient. More often than not if these are used, I can then find small pin hole leaks on the pipes exiting the holding tanks to the through hull valves. Often these pipes are in full failure. Replacement is not fun, easy or in any way pleasant and rewarding. It is, quite literally, a crappy job as those of us who have done it can attest.

 

On the initiation schooling I give to all my’ new to them’ Amel owners, I strongly suggest not to even have CLOROX aboard. It is an extreme oxidizer and chews up rubber seals and pump parts, the copper strap in the bilge sump joining the iron ballast to the zincs, and accelerates aging on almost everything it touches.

 

White vinegar is a softer solution. Not as good in some cases, but not as ugly and aggressive either.

 

Have fun with your Amel, Joel

 

Joel F. Potter/Cruising Yacht Specialist LLC

THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

954 462 5869 office

954 812 2485 cell

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2017 9:32 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

 

 

I had a similar problem when I originally received Kimberlite from Amel. It was delivered with electric toilets.

 

The solution I found was to hold down the red flush button for 10 seconds.

This puts just salt water in the hose and whatever came out of the toilet is now in the tank and

just salt water returns to the bowl. You might try pumping the toilet more to get just salt water in the hose.

I also originally had to change the toilet to tank hose every few years due to permeation of odor in the hose. Now with a 10 second flush I have not had to change the hose in over 10 years.

 

I have 2 problems with the electric toilet.

When the boats sits for a few days the salt water in the tubing has a sulfur dioxide odor for the first flush—very smelly. Possibly someone else has a better solution, for us I add Clorox to the sea chest with water and operate the toilet until I smell Clorox. I let this sit for 12 hours.  The water comes out black on the first flush and then no more smell for a while. I bought the fresh water flush valve and initially intended to use it for a fresh water flush. However I hate to waste fresh water , so I stayed with salt water.

 

The other problem is the weakness of the base of the toilet. I have had to replace the forward base twice. Probably because we make passages with three other people and it gets more use.

 

Any suggestions to solve these issues?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2017 8:28 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

 

 

I cannot address the electric head issue, as we have manual Jabsco’s. Our boat was right on the cusp of switching from manual to electric. 

That said, after having owned our fair ship for 8 years, I would like to solicit others’ experience. 

We have two standard manual Jabsco’s. Do other SM owners with manual heads also have Jabsco’s?

I ask that, because they have been such a huge problem for us. I know that heads are often at the top of the list for maintaining. 

However, ours have been particularly gruesome The positioning of the holding tanks nearly a meter above the bottom of the head means a constant battle to prevent black water (extreme euphemism) from flowing back into the bowl, at times filling it. In the dark, the ladies can be very rudely surprised. 

We have tried almost everything: changing joker (tricuspid) valves every month, purchasing the newer Jabsco “lock” handle mechanism, and finally putting an extra in-line valve between the head and the holding tank. 

It is quite a bit better, but gravity still sometimes wins. 

Are we alone? 

Appreciate any feedback from this invaluable forum (for non-native English speakers, invaluable doesn’t mean not valuable, but rather extremely valuable). Don’t ask me why, not sure. For example, inhospitable means “not hospitable”, but inflammable means “extremely flammable”. 

But I digress. Thanks again as always. 

 

Tom Peacock

SM 240Aletes

Rock Hall, Maryland

Departing for Antigua November 3

 


On Oct 11, 2017, at 7:52 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Ian and Margaret,

 

Like you, our SM has two factory installed manual heads.  We are happy with them and have no plans to change them.

 

My experience with the Jabsco electric heads is very limited, and pretty much all bad--in some cases really bad! My sample size is small, and they really can't be as bad my impressions...  but I wouldn't go that way.

 

For 15 years I lived on a boat that had a Sealand Vacuflush.  It was fantastic.  Reliable.  If flushed with a tiny, tiny bit of fresh water (really important with Amel's tiny, tiny holding tanks!) 

 

If I wanted to swap out to electric heads that would be the way I would go without a second thought.  Installation in an Amel would take a bit of thinking, but they have lots of configuration options.

 

Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Back Creek, Annapolis, MD

---In amelyachtowners@..., <smlocalola@...> wrote :

Our SM has two manual heads, both Jabsco. We are looking at Installing Jabsco Quiet Flush Electric Heads. They seem to fit the SM head floor pan cut out nicely. Any opinions on number of electric heads? Two electric or one+manual? Other things we should consider?





Ian & Margaret

SM153

Loca Lola II 

New River, Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

Thomas Peacock
 

Our backflow problem has been much better the last 2 years with some modifications, but still not ideal. 

I bought the locking pump mechanism as an entire new unit. Not much more $ than a rebuild kit. There is a bayonet in the lock that puts downward pressure on the flapper valve. That helped somewhat. 
I then bought an in line valve (also a Jabsco part) that I inserted in the hose about three inches after it exits the head on its way to the tank. That helped immensely for about a year, then the backflow ensued.  I took the in line valve out and cleaned it, some sludge had accumulated. After putting it back, the head seems great again. Maybe there’s a trick in terms of flushing to prevent the sludge from accumulating. 

Bottom line, it’s worth buying the locking pump and in line valve. I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised. 

One more tip, Defender sells a much more flexible black water hose. Immensely easier to work with. It’s called Raritan Sani. I highly recommend it. 

Tom Peacock
Aletes SM 240


On Oct 12, 2017, at 2:21 PM, Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I have Jabsco manual heads on my boat, and both of them exhibit the black water backflow problem Tom mentioned.  I was advised by the previous owner to flush extra seawater through so when (not if) they backflow, it will be "clean" water.  This works to a point.  If the holding tank is sufficiently full, it will backflow seemingly directly from the tank.  I suspect this is when the level of waste in the tank rises above the level of the discharge hose from the head, allowing it to siphon backwards until the level drops again.  I do not have a solution except to get pumped out more often.  I was considering swapping the heads for the version with the locking handle, does that really not work?  It seems like it should.  I'd love a better solution!

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration

On Thu, Oct 12, 2017 at 2:11 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Joel,


Your chemical engineer on call suggests that you might be looking for calcium hypochlorite rather than calcium chloride.

Other than that...  just like you said!

Bill Kinney
Sm160, Harmonie
Back Creek, Annapolis, MD



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

Ryan Meador
 

I have Jabsco manual heads on my boat, and both of them exhibit the black water backflow problem Tom mentioned.  I was advised by the previous owner to flush extra seawater through so when (not if) they backflow, it will be "clean" water.  This works to a point.  If the holding tank is sufficiently full, it will backflow seemingly directly from the tank.  I suspect this is when the level of waste in the tank rises above the level of the discharge hose from the head, allowing it to siphon backwards until the level drops again.  I do not have a solution except to get pumped out more often.  I was considering swapping the heads for the version with the locking handle, does that really not work?  It seems like it should.  I'd love a better solution!

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration

On Thu, Oct 12, 2017 at 2:11 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Joel,


Your chemical engineer on call suggests that you might be looking for calcium hypochlorite rather than calcium chloride.

Other than that...  just like you said!

Bill Kinney
Sm160, Harmonie
Back Creek, Annapolis, MD