Date   
new anchor chain

Alex Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...>
 

Dear Amelians, my original stainless steel anchor chain that came with the boat in 2005 doesn't look good anymore. I want to replace it. Given the position of the anchor chain locker and the inability to access it immediately in case something is stuck, I believe it's a good idea to to buy a stainless steel chain again, given it's characteristic to drop nicely without building up piles.

However, some sailors tell my stainless is a waste of money (because the maybe only real good stainless chain is from Walder in Germany and is VERY expensive and others aren't worth the investiment due to bad quality) and galvanized is the way to go. Can you share your experience?

Also, does any of you know which company was the AMEL OEM for stainless steel chains in 2005?
Thanks as always for your valuable input,
Alex
SY NO STRESS
AMEL54 #15

Icom ps-66 DC-DC converter.

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

I seem to remember at least one owner looking for the Icom 24VDC to 12VDC converter for an SSB...here you are for $250


Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Re: Photos Section Problems - Yahoo Nov 2017

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Mark:  I received the PDFs via email, thank you,  Gerhard and Duane, thanks for your reply.  Trying the photos section again this morning I am having the same problem.  Running a speed test on my internet connection is showing 150 GB per second download speed and I am not having problems with any other applications.  When I look at the photos thumbnails there are random blank areas and if I try to open a thumbnail it goes to a low resolution picture and the download circling "wait" icon just runs and the photo will never open.  The files section seems to be ok on my end.  I can't find our moderator information anymore to attempt to have him/her contact Yahoo to see if there is an issue. Thanks for the thoughts. 

Sincerely, 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM #335

garysilver at mac dot com

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Photos Section Problems - Yahoo Nov 2017

Andy Buxford
 

Do you have a Yahoo account?

I do not, and am only able to access attachments from the link in the
original message, not from the other messages in the thread (where it
says "Check out the automatic photo album with 1 photo(s) from this
topic.").

EG. in the thread "Sea cock & thru hulls", (S)Miles Bernard attaches
an image in his message sent 6 Nov 2017 20:15 PST - there are two
attachment links in that, only one of them works for me, the other
shows me a Yahoo login (and I have no Yahoo account).

I can also see the attachment sent by Heinz Stutenbäumer at 9 Nov 2017
09:57 in the thread "phased electronics replacement" - that is
actually in the body of the message, and I don't even have to click a
link, Much better!

I think maybe one of these posters posts via email, the other via Yahoo Groups.

I would much prefer a plain text mailing list.

Andy.

On Sun, Nov 12, 2017 at 5:59 AM, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:


Is anybody else having trouble accessing the photos section? I have used a
couple of different computers and a couple of different browsers and I am
getting limited and spotty viewing of photos.

Re: Rub Rail Hull/Deck Joint Drawings

Duane Siegfri
 

I foud your email and sent the rub rail pdf.

Re: Photos Section Problems - Yahoo Nov 2017

mfmcgovern@...
 

Gary,

I'm having similar issues and can't access any Photos. I also checked the Files section and I can't download any Files. I get a message stating "Yahoo - 400 Bad Request" when I try to download a File. Definitely not good!

Mark
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

Re: Photos Section Problems - Yahoo Nov 2017

carcodespam@icloud.com <no_reply@...>
 

No problems here. Perhaps you have a poor internet connection?
Images are usually something greater than plain text files.

Gerhard

Re: Rub Rail Hull/Deck Joint Drawings

Duane Siegfri
 

Gary, I embeded it in this message.  Your email address was cut off.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477

Rub Rail Hull/Deck Joint Drawings

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi All:


I know there are pictures of the hull deck joint/rub-rail structure in the photos section but I can't get that section to work at the moment.  Does someone have a PDF or photo of the Amel structural drawings of the  rub-rail and hull/deck joint area that could forward it to me at AgCEagle@....



Thanks, 


Gary S. Silver 

s/v Liahona

Amel SM #335

Photos Section Problems - Yahoo Nov 2017

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Is anybody else having trouble accessing the photos section?   I have used a couple of different computers and a couple of different browsers and I am getting limited and spotty viewing of photos.


Wondering if our moderator might check this out and see if there is a problem on the Yahoo side of things. 


Gary S. Silver

s/v Liahona

Amel SM #335

Puerto Del Rey Marina  - Puerto Rico

Re: phased electronics replacement

Dominique Guenot
 

Thanks Bill K


Dominique Guenot
+679 935 2976

You'll need Skype CreditFree via Skype
You'll need Skype CreditFree via Skype
You'll need Skype CreditFree via Skype

Re: Duo 60 Desallator pressure problem

Duane Siegfri
 

Thanks Bill.  It's a very curious problem.

Duane

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Furling Gearbox Differences

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi,

Being the originator of the grease nipple addition I offer the following. My furler was very noisy. When I dis-assembled it I found the grease caked in the housing and not at all in contact with the gears. I cleaned it out and added the grease nipple. I did the other gear box in situ. Put grease on the drill and on the tap to collect the filings so they don't fall into the interior. I put a length of wine cork on the drill leaving just enough drill protruding to get through the housing. Stops the drill making contact with the gears on breakthrough.

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 11 November 2017 at 16:15 "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Hi James,
Interestingly, these reduction gears are sold as "permanently lubricated" with gear oil (close, but not generic SAE 90 - you can google the specific oil). HOWEVER, the expected applications for which they are engineered are "friendly" industrial environments, typically in interior machine rooms with the orientation of the reduction gear being vertical (the oil flows nicely over the gears) and it gets thousands of hours of virtually continuous operation and never needs lubrication.  NOT ON AN AMEL.

Our application could not be more different: it requires disassembly of the factory sealed unit (so long "permanently lubricated") to add the plastic spacers and re-drilling the mounts, plus a horizontal orientation (so oil will pool on one side) and, of course, the environment is hostile and the usage is infrequent (compared with industrial applications) with long periods of baking in the sun at high temperatures. The conditions for "permanent lubrication" have been totally voided and no longer exist. 

Now, what  Amel did is to break the factory seals to modify it for the black delrin shims and replace the factory supplied oil with grease. Owners have improved on the Captain's engineering (I can see Bill R getting excited!) by adding grease fittings so they can do preventive maintenance and keep the grease topped up. 

As for tapping the grease fitting holes, there is enough clearance inside such that you can drill and tap a hole anywhere - do be careful, of course. Better yet, since you have to open the replacement unit to add the shims, just pop off the side plate and get a visual on where to drill and tap. Watch out for getting metal chips inside.

As for grease getting thrown off the gears as they spin, remember that our application is so infrequent as compared with a continuous industrial application that it is inconsequential - keeping the housing full of grease will provide more than adequate lubrication, (which, actually, is hardly needed). More to the point, the grease is there not so much for lubrication, but to keep the housing full and prevent any water ingress, which is the culprit in corroded bearings that allow the worm gear to wobble and destroy the gear train.

So go drill and tap and it will be fine.

Cheers, Craig Briggs SN#68

---In amelyachtowners@..., <jean.boucharlat@...> wrote :

James,

 

There are entire libraries filled with heavy books, theses, knowledgeable opinions, about the respective merits of grease and oil.

You can spend the upcoming winter making up your mind if you have the courage to investigate thoroughly this particular issue.

Take the plunge, make your own decision about what fits your particular circumstances.

 

Jean Boucharlat

Formerly SM 232

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: vendredi 10 novembre 2017 05:29
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Furling Gearbox Differences

 

 

What is the consensus of others, then, regarding using gear oil versus grease for the furlor and outhaul gearboxes?

Indeed, it would seem that gear oil would be the appropriate lubrication, but I look to those smarter than me… 

 

James

On Nov 9, 2017, at 10:47 PM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

If you are going to disassemble the gearbox, why not just fill it with SAE90 oil?

That will do a much better job of keeping the gears lubricated than grease.

Grease tends to get thrown off gears as they turn and doesn't stay where the gears are meshed, which is what you really want to lubricate.

Cheers

Alan 

Elyse SM437

On the hard, raising the waterline

 

 

 

 


 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Problems hooking up new Bamar EJF 1.0 to new Boxtron E14s Any help appreciated!

Porter McRoberts
 

Thomas and Martin et al.
We did ultimately get the situation sorted out it was a 24 V means wiring issue on the trinket and then simply wiring is the thermal sensor on the Genoa. 

The process does leave me two working belt driven furlers and 3 extra New belts for each furler
They could easily be used for spare parts if anyone is interested. 

Perhaps I pulled the trigger too soon, after I serviced the brushes and mechanically drive he furlers the hesitation went completely away. 

Nevertheless were trying to get out for a long saI’ll and I figured reliability trumped finances. 


Thank you all for your help!


Porter






On Nov 11, 2017, at 7:59 AM, luvkante@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Porter,


Ask Gan Piero from Amel 54 NOW OR NEVER. He completed the job successfully.
He`s on this forum as well as on Facebook.

Martin
AMEL #149 CHIARA

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] C Drive - service kit 400EUR???

hanspeter baettig
 

To SM Owner with hull number 1-60 or so.
The Bague d'usure is 35 mm diametre and not 40 mm. Maybe you check with Amel. SAV has both size on stock. SAV should know die size of your shaft. The seals, Joint Spi are exactly the same dimensions as for the 40 mm bague d'usure arbe. I paid exactly the same price last week as Bill mentioned.

regards
Hanspeter
SM 16, Tamango 2
Gibraltar, sailing tomorrow to Lanzarote, Canarien
 

----Ursprüngliche Nachricht----
Von : amelyachtowners@...
Datum : 11/11/2017 - 07:47 (MZ)
An : amelyachtowners@...
Betreff : Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] C Drive - service kit 400EUR???

 

The last time I purchased the C Drive parts was 23 September 2015...the part numbers and prices were:

[Amel Part 2072] BAGUE D'USURE ARBRE Ø 40 ALESAGE +0.05 (SN SMU A54 A55/Prop shaft bushing) 149,80 Euro
[Amel Part 1422] JOINT SPI 45 x 65 x 8 POUR BAGUE D'USURE (Lip seal for prop) 6,00 Euro each
The prices above do not include VAT or Shipping Costs

These parts protect your C-Drive. Amel recommends changing these and the oil every 800 hours. I believe that since a haulout is required to replace these parts and since other reasons will necessitate a 2-year interval to haulout, AND, since the actual cost of hauling out is much more significant that the individual reasons to haulout,,,doing this job every two years is best.

I believe the risk in using non-Amel parts is the cost of replacing the C-Drive, which I estimate to be 30,000 Euros. I would never risk such a large amount to save a few euros, but some people do. I have seen the problems that some people have experienced when trying to save a few euros...it is not worth it.

Seal sizes are uniform, but the material a seal is made of is NOT. I have seen seals that were supposedly the same that Amel distributes and could easily compress them with my fingers, while I could not with the seals Amel supplies.

This Prop shaft bushing and 3-lip seals are exactly the same on all Amel C-Drives for Santorin, Super Maramu, Amel 54, and Amel 55.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970



Re: Problems hooking up new Bamar EJF 1.0 to new Boxtron E14s Any help appreciated!

luvkante
 

Hi Porter,

Ask Gan Piero from Amel 54 NOW OR NEVER. He completed the job successfully.
He`s on this forum as well as on Facebook.

Martin
AMEL #149 CHIARA

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Problems hooking up new Bamar EJF 1.0 to new Boxtron E14s Any help appreciated!

Sv Garulfo
 

Hi Porter,

Not much help from us either: our genoa furler was switched to Reckmann by the previous owner and the trinquet is still on the belt driven bamar MEJ 1.02 (currently with a broken belt, waiting for a spare...). Also, the boxtron unit is an EM and it replaced an E14 one that is still there in the bow locker. When troubleshooting the failed furler motor, I found the boxtron only let out ~16V when the solenoids were energised. That didn't seem right, even though I didn't have a benchmark to compare. By chance the previous owner had left a spare EM boxtron that I installed and that let ~24V through. Still no rotation, and turned my attention to the belt, which I discovered was broken and tightly wrapped around the drive...
Anyway I don't know if or why the E14 was replaced by EM. The previous owner also left 2 spare E14S boxtron in the boat, in the packaging sent by Bamar. 

Sorry, it's a long story for not much precise information. 

It would be surprising that both motor units have the same defect but not impossible. Ideally you would bring one of them to a 54 nearby and hook it up to their boxtron box to isolate the fault. Have you tried energising the motor directly with 24V, with the expectation it should just rotate?

Our bow locker is pretty damp too, i will check those bolts. So are our other lockers when water runs on deck.  What grease do you us on the gaskets? Silicon I presume ?


Thanks 
Thomas 

Garulfo
Amel 54 #122
Graciosa, Canary Islands, Spain


On Tue, 7 Nov 2017 at 21:54, Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Excellent Ideas.  I think I am going to hangout in there during a rainstorm and see what we get. 
Thank you both!

Porter


Porter McRoberts

S/V Ibis: Amel 54-#152
Ft. Lauderdale
www.fouribis.com
portermcroberts@...


On Nov 7, 2017, at 4:57 PM, 'Mohammad Shirloo' mshirloo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hi Porter;
 
I cannot help much with the Bamar issue as we are still using the belt driven units and hoping to get a few more years out of them.
 
As far as the bow locker, ours is very dry and no sign of humidity at all. I'm always pleasantly surprised to open the bow locker and smell, what seems to be, fresh fiberglass resin smell. When we purchased her, Olivier did the survey and noticed that some moisture had previously come in from the mounting bolts of the anchor plate in the front of the locker. We did tighten these bolts and have not seen any moisture since. However, even then, we never noticed any kind of moisture or any smell of humidity.
 
I would check the anchor plate bolts in the front and possibly the windlass deck switches for any sign of moisture penetration.
 
Respectfully;
Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099


From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] 
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2017 1:43 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Problems hooking up new Bamar EJF 1.0 to new Boxtron E14s Any help appreciated!

Dear Amelians, Likely 54ians,


After the prescribed repeat frustrations with the OEM Bamar “Magic” EJFs, I finally decided to make the switch to new Bamar direct drive EJF 1.0s.

They are newly installed on the Foc and Trinquet, forestay and inner forestay.  Wires run below decks to the bow locker and to 2 new E14 Boxtrons.  

24v feed is good to both.  power from both (Foc and Trinquet) furling switches is good.

Today I worked with Nance and Underwood here in fort lauderdale as well as a stumped rigging marine electrician who hooked up the E14s as they should.  

We find the following:  with E14 and trinket furling switch a click in the furler motor housing, but no rotation.  If we hook up same wiring to an old and existing EM Boxtron, furler works!

Dispite much rewiring, no EJF rotation with the E14.  This occurs with both the new furlers.  

The electrician is stumped.  Bamar NA no return phone call.

Any thoughts?  

Very appreciated.



Second question:  is the bow locker always very humid?  I’ve re-greased the gasket and tightened the screws.  still seems very humid.  Anyone installed a ventilation fan?



Thanks again.  

Porter


Porter McRoberts
954 684 8586c
S/V Ibis: Amel 54-#152
Ft. Lauderdale
www.fouribis.com
portermcroberts@...









Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] C Drive - service kit 400EUR???

Alan Leslie
 

In October 2016, the prices were the same.
I keep a spare set always...same with the bowthruster seals.
Before I use them, I order another set.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] C Drive - service kit 400EUR???

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

The last time I purchased the C Drive parts was 23 September 2015...the part numbers and prices were:

[Amel Part 2072] BAGUE D'USURE ARBRE Ø 40 ALESAGE +0.05 (SN SMU A54 A55/Prop shaft bushing) 149,80 Euro
[Amel Part 1422] JOINT SPI 45 x 65 x 8 POUR BAGUE D'USURE (Lip seal for prop) 6,00 Euro each
The prices above do not include VAT or Shipping Costs

These parts protect your C-Drive. Amel recommends changing these and the oil every 800 hours. I believe that since a haulout is required to replace these parts and since other reasons will necessitate a 2-year interval to haulout, AND, since the actual cost of hauling out is much more significant that the individual reasons to haulout,,,doing this job every two years is best.

I believe the risk in using non-Amel parts is the cost of replacing the C-Drive, which I estimate to be 30,000 Euros. I would never risk such a large amount to save a few euros, but some people do. I have seen the problems that some people have experienced when trying to save a few euros...it is not worth it.

Seal sizes are uniform, but the material a seal is made of is NOT. I have seen seals that were supposedly the same that Amel distributes and could easily compress them with my fingers, while I could not with the seals Amel supplies.

This Prop shaft bushing and 3-lip seals are exactly the same on all Amel C-Drives for Santorin, Super Maramu, Amel 54, and Amel 55.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Furling Gearbox Differences

greatketch@...
 

My comments really only can be taken as "true" for the Leroy Sumer units used on boats before 1997.  They are the only ones I have had in hand and taken apart.  The Italian ones might be different...

That said, the top and bottom covers need to come off. The motor does not need to be removed from the gearbox, unless you have concerns about the worm shaft seal.  Since that is fully protected from the environment, I wouldn't expect it to have problems.

 Once you have the box dismounted it's a pretty easy job from there.  The covers are sealed with o-rings.  The lip seals pop out in a second with a seal puller, and new ones just just tap into place.  A good chance to check the insides and renew lubricant if it has water in it too!

Check the o-ring seats carefully.  One of mine had corrosion pits that would have prevented a good seal, so I used some RTV on that one to fill the gap.

The bit about "permanently lubricated" might be true--but only until a seal fails.

This really isn't high tech mechanical engineering.  The only high wear contact point is between the worm and the worm gear.  Other than that, it's just four lightly loaded ball bearings.

I think there are two issues with these units.  First, is the housing alloy really is marginal for salt water exposure.  Second, the top seal is exposed to the sun.  The rubber parts do NOT like the continuous UV exposure. A cover when not sailing would never hurt...

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
On the hard at LMC,
Fort Lauderdale, FL