Date   

Re: Play in Brunson H6 prop blade

Nicolas Klene
 

Hello Mohammad 
I have just serviced my brunton H6 on the hard ,after it had given 16 years of good service ,I don’t know if the previous owner did it,I have no records. I just want to make you aware that a lot of heat was needed to remove the prop from its conical shaft , nothing else was moving it , not even the prop puller...
good luck
Nicolas
--
Nicolas Klene
DarNico
SM2K # 471
In Marseille


Re: Cook top dimensions

Peter Tiner
 

Hi

May i put some questions to you who have already installed an inductive cooker?
Re electric installation, did you get a connected load of 4.5KW or are you planning to not use full power ie several plates/oven at the same time? And one more question: did you take power from the 240VAC panel or from somewhere else?

Best regards

\Peter Tinér @ sy Maiken A54 #52


Re: Haul out Croatia

Hans Schaidinger
 

I did the same work last year in Frapa Marina, Rogoznica, all was very well done. You may check, if they have the capacity to perform the work in the next days.

 

Happy sailing too,

Hans

SM2K #411 ALADEMAR

 

Von: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Im Auftrag von Mohammad Shirloo
Gesendet: Montag, 7. Juni 2021 07:32
An: Amel group new .iso <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Betreff: [AmelYachtOwners] Haul out Croatia

 

We may need to haul out due to an issue with our Brunton prop. While hailed we will do the bottom paint and C-drive seal and oil change too. Would appreciate recommendations for good haul out locations. We are currently about 15NM north of Dubrovnik.

 

Happy sailing;;

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

Amel 54 #099

 

 

 


Members removed because their email no longer is working

 

I had to remove about 50 members this morning because their email was bouncing or not working.

If you received this email, obviously you are NOT removed.

FYI, they were all Yahoo email addresses except one.
--
 
Best,
 
CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970


Re: Play in Brunson H6 prop blade

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Thanks for the responses. I talked to Bruntons and they agree that it is either the adjustment nut or the bearings may have seated since the rebuild. We are planning on removing the prop in water, make the needed corrections on board (We have the complete rebuild kit on biard) and have the prop reinstalled in water. We have scheduled a diver recommended by a friend that has a boat in the marina nearby. Are there any issues that anyone knows that removing the propeller in water may create, other than the obvious losing of parts or prop?

We do have the original fixed prop on board, does anyone know if there are any adjustments to the drive system needed or can the original fixed prop be installed without any modification or issues?

Respectfully;


Mohammad Shirloo
+1-323-633-2222 Cell
+1-424-644-0908 Fax


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Denis Elborn via groups.io <delborn@...>
Sent: Monday, June 7, 2021 1:18:49 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Play in Brunson H6 prop blade
 
Hi Mohammad,

When you replace the bearings there is adjustment to get the correct play which is locked by a locking ring, this may have come loose, assuming you don’t have a bearing problem.

I think it will be an ‘out of the water’ repair.

Regards, Denis
Fortune A54 #159
St. Raphael 


On 7 Jun 2021, at 9:01 am, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

It sounds to me like something was done wrong, or something is wrong. I have seen the bearings. That is way too much play.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Jun 6, 2021 at 4:52 PM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:
Hi everyone;

While diving to clean the hull and the prop, I noticed that one of the blades rocks back and forth about 1/8” to 1/4”. The other two are tight. 

The blades had new bearings installed in 2018  with about 1800 hours on the engine. This is about the time Brunton recommends an overhaul. The work was done at Manoel”s in Malta by workers that seemed competent.

Has anyone run into this ? Any information on repairs ot solutions would be appreciated.



Respectfully;


Mohammad Shirloo
+1-323-633-2222 Cell
+1-424-644-0908 Fax




Re: Haul out Croatia

James Watkins
 

There is a great service.operation in Pula. Commodore and it is VAT free if.you are not EU flagged.

I had quite a bit of.work done with them and it was all well done.

Best Regards 
Jim Watkins
Act II. Maramu hull 186


On Mon, Jun 7, 2021 at 8:04 AM, Slavko Despotovic
<slavko@...> wrote:
Good morning,

Dubrovnik marina is part of ACI marinas in Croatia. They are, in Dubrovnik, very busy and one of the most expensive marinas in Croatia. I have done haul out in Marina Portoroz, Slovenia but this would be far for you I assume. Other option is Sukosan near Zadar (100 miles from your current location), They are all very busy and some advance planning is needed. Depends how urgent  is haul out, as well if you will do the work, or you will hire local workers. 
--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Portoroz


Re: Haul out Croatia

Slavko Despotovic
 

Good morning,

Dubrovnik marina is part of ACI marinas in Croatia. They are, in Dubrovnik, very busy and one of the most expensive marinas in Croatia. I have done haul out in Marina Portoroz, Slovenia but this would be far for you I assume. Other option is Sukosan near Zadar (100 miles from your current location), They are all very busy and some advance planning is needed. Depends how urgent  is haul out, as well if you will do the work, or you will hire local workers. 
--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Portoroz


Re: Haul out Croatia

Denis Elborn
 

Dubrovnik marina was pretty good sheltered and quiet.

Denis and Julie
Fortune
A54 159

On 7 Jun 2021, at 3:32 pm, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

We may need to haul out due to an issue with our Brunton prop. While hailed we will do the bottom paint and C-drive seal and oil change too. Would appreciate recommendations for good haul out locations. We are currently about 15NM north of Dubrovnik.

Happy sailing;;
Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099





Haul out Croatia

Mohammad Shirloo
 

We may need to haul out due to an issue with our Brunton prop. While hailed we will do the bottom paint and C-drive seal and oil change too. Would appreciate recommendations for good haul out locations. We are currently about 15NM north of Dubrovnik.

Happy sailing;;
Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099




Re: BT SEALS Aquarius

Ken Powers SV Aquarius <ken@...>
 

Sorry the final list is:

Lip Seals

 

Ken 2

Taun 5

Nick 2

Michelle Day 2

Ian Geoffrey Bone 2

Dominique Sery 2

Biffi Stefano 3

Eric Opdeweegh 2

Vladan Bojic 2

Ken


Re: BT SEAL INSTRUCTIONS

Ken Powers SV Aquarius <ken@...>
 

Jose,

I did try to contact you personally, but I don't think I have your correct email address (I received it from the manufacturer).  I was a bit upset, because I thought you were ignoring my email.   

Personally, I would like to get the instructions completed and be done with it.  

On page 3,  the Lip Seal is glued in place, and the Wiper is glued on TOP of it. As in your picture, I thought.  Is this the best way to install the two seals, or not? I don't want to have an Option 2 in the final draft of the instruction set.  The seals might not be drawn perfectly, but I hope you can tell the difference between them and their orientation.  I will draw them better after I receive the seals and can personally touch them.

What is your opinion on the weight necessary to set on top of the seals as the sealant cures, or none at all?

I also have had no water intrusion, with the original type seals.  That said, my bow rides higher in the water than it should.  I am in the process of moving the weight around to get my waterline correct.  This re-distribution of weight will put the hole for the bow thruster closer to the water line, and thus, the reason for my interest in your new seal design.  

I hope we can have a sundowner some evening and put this behind us! 

Ken 


Re: BT SEALS Aquarius

Ken Powers SV Aquarius <ken@...>
 

Below are the people that sent emails first to pay for the seals.  If you missed out you should get a new group of 10 owners and place a new PO.  

Ken 2

Taun 5

Nick 2

Michelle Day 2

Ian Geoffrey Bone 2

Dominique Sery 2

Biffi Stefano 3

Eric Opdeweegh 2

Total Paid  - 20

I am sorry, but I don't have the time required to ship to 40 owners.  

The instructions set has not been completed.  I know only two people that have successfully installed these seals.  One of them had to do it twice, destroying one set in the process. But, the second set has been working for 4000 miles of Ocean sailing.   Another owner said that he had a bad installation, and he removed and replaced the New Silicone seals with the standard lip seal that Amel originally installed.

All of the failed installations probably could have been avoided if a good set of instructions existed.  I will complete a set of instructions before I send out the seals to the seven owners that paid.

I hope that all of the owners with experience installing these seals will respond to the BT Seals Instructions that I have uploaded a few days ago.  Collectively, maybe we can create a good set of instructions.

Ken
Aquarius
SM2K#262



 


Re: leaking membrane cap Dessalator

Porter McRoberts
 

Oscar.  
Bula Bula
Been down this road and happy to help.  Come on over!

Porter
A-54-152

On Jun 6, 2021, at 2:31 PM, Oscar De Schaetzen <oscar.de.schaetzen@...> wrote:

Dear Amelians,

First of all : thank you Bill Rouse for adding me in this group. We've been full-time sailing for 3 years and I only knew about the FaceBook Group. There is much more information in this group!

We are currently in Fiji and we have a leak at the membrane end-cap of our Dessalator Duo 100l/h. To my knowledge, we've never changed the membranes from this watermaker. It now has 676hours. We only changed the oil of the HP pump as well as the O-rings, lip-seals nd a plunger on the HP-CAT pump (as it started leaking last year).

I noticed a small leak of saltwater at the HP tube that is going out of the watermaker after the membranes. I tought : I will undo the hose as well as the 2 screws of the stainless steel part (that is +/- a half-circle) and I put some loctite on the screws. Unfortunately, I made the leak (below the stainless steel part) more important and now it even leaks when I do a manual rincing with fresh water (using the 3-way valve). So If there would be pressure in the membranes, I would spray saltwater everywhere... and thus my watermake is currently out of service... 

My questions :
- Do I need to change the membrane cap (I don't have one in spare) or is it possible to repair the leak?
- I removed the 2 screws that hold the stainless steel part but the stainless steel part didn't come off. Does someone knows if it is possible to remove it? It might be glued / sealed. Because if the answer is yes, I can try to remove it and make it watertight again (with a sillicone gasket or something like that). Has anyone tried that? This could be a temporary solution. Has anyone pictures from the end-cap with the stainless steel part removed? So I can see how it looks inside?

I have written to Dessalator and I await their feedback as well.

I guess I am not the first one with leaking end-caps. So thank you in advance for sharing your experience!!

Kind regards,

Oscar - SV ESTRAN - A54, hull n°4 <membrane endcap.jpg>


Re: Prop Settings for older SM with Volvo/MaxProp

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

The Volvo TMD 22 as installed by Amel in the SM has a design max rpm under load of 2800. Many of us suffered untold grief trying to get more. It will rev cheerfully to 4000 no load. Ie in neutral. If you get higher revs under load it is likely the turbo wastegate is frozen. This causes the engine to get excessive turbo boost pressure which over time will do serious harm to pistons and rings. The wastegate opens progressively as rpm increases to prevent this. Carbon build up causes them to freeze (stick) and periodic maintenance is to remove the exhaust mixer elbow to access the wastegate and free it. 

Kind Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 07 June 2021 at 11:35 Germain Jean-Pierre <jp.germain45@...> wrote:

Hello 2 X Bills,

My previous boat had an identical TDM22.  It was setup to reach 4200 rpm. 

Was very noisy with lots of vibes... but the 46 footer reached 9.5 at full power. 

I’ve noted exacty the symptoms described by Bill K too but given the torque curve of the engine, I understand why Amel decided to keep the max revs down at 3000.  Though 3350 is still well into the good range. 


Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera SM007, NZ

 

On 7 Jun 2021, at 09:28, Bill Kinney <cruisingconsulting@...> wrote:

When we got our Amel (SM #160) it came with what was then the standard 22” diameter MaxProp. All of our documentation pointed to using a setting of 20 degrees (15” Pitch)  With the boat set up like this, it checked all of the standard performance boxes.  Maximum engine RPM 3000: Check. Boat speed with a clean bottom: 8.0 knots, Check.  Should be perfect...

Except... under some conditions, the boat was just not happy.  Motoring into a strong headwind, or steep chop, and the engine RPM could not QUITE climb up high enough that the turbo boost come up enough to continue up the power curve.  It would “get stuck” at 1800 RPM and the boat would really struggle. In flat water, this never happened, it worked just as expected.

This might have been due to an aging powerplant (she’s up to 8200 hours) or some other quirk unique to our boat, but just in case anybody else is left with one of these engine/propeller combinations and has had some of the same issues, here is what we did.

It seemed the engine needed to be un-loaded just a tiny bit.  The next lower setting on the MaxProp is 18 degrees with gives a 13.5” Pitch.  All other things being equal, I calculated this as bringing the engine speed at any given boat speed up by about 8%.  I knew from observations if the engine reached 2100 that was more than enough to get the boost pressure up and let it generate full power.  After consulting people who know a lot more about turbochargers than I do, we made the change.

Maximum engine RPM is now about 3350RPM (still way below the engine makers recommended maximum) Highest boat speed is still just about 8.0 knots, maybe just a hair faster.  So that was all as expected.  The performance against headwinds and seas has dramatically improved.  We haven’t yet found any conditions where the boat gets “stuck.” Unless we find something dramatic, I expect this to be a change we will stick with.

Bill Kinney
SM160,  Harmonie
Eleuthera, BS



 


 


leaking membrane cap Dessalator

Oscar De Schaetzen
 

Dear Amelians,

First of all : thank you Bill Rouse for adding me in this group. We've been full-time sailing for 3 years and I only knew about the FaceBook Group. There is much more information in this group!

We are currently in Fiji and we have a leak at the membrane end-cap of our Dessalator Duo 100l/h. To my knowledge, we've never changed the membranes from this watermaker. It now has 676hours. We only changed the oil of the HP pump as well as the O-rings, lip-seals nd a plunger on the HP-CAT pump (as it started leaking last year).

I noticed a small leak of saltwater at the HP tube that is going out of the watermaker after the membranes. I tought : I will undo the hose as well as the 2 screws of the stainless steel part (that is +/- a half-circle) and I put some loctite on the screws. Unfortunately, I made the leak (below the stainless steel part) more important and now it even leaks when I do a manual rincing with fresh water (using the 3-way valve). So If there would be pressure in the membranes, I would spray saltwater everywhere... and thus my watermake is currently out of service... 

My questions :
- Do I need to change the membrane cap (I don't have one in spare) or is it possible to repair the leak?
- I removed the 2 screws that hold the stainless steel part but the stainless steel part didn't come off. Does someone knows if it is possible to remove it? It might be glued / sealed. Because if the answer is yes, I can try to remove it and make it watertight again (with a sillicone gasket or something like that). Has anyone tried that? This could be a temporary solution. Has anyone pictures from the end-cap with the stainless steel part removed? So I can see how it looks inside?

I have written to Dessalator and I await their feedback as well.

I guess I am not the first one with leaking end-caps. So thank you in advance for sharing your experience!!

Kind regards,

Oscar - SV ESTRAN - A54, hull n°4


Re: Prop Settings for older SM with Volvo/MaxProp

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hello 2 X Bills,

My previous boat had an identical TDM22.  It was setup to reach 4200 rpm. 

Was very noisy with lots of vibes... but the 46 footer reached 9.5 at full power. 

I’ve noted exacty the symptoms described by Bill K too but given the torque curve of the engine, I understand why Amel decided to keep the max revs down at 3000.  Though 3350 is still well into the good range. 


Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera SM007, NZ


On 7 Jun 2021, at 09:28, Bill Kinney <cruisingconsulting@...> wrote:

When we got our Amel (SM #160) it came with what was then the standard 22” diameter MaxProp. All of our documentation pointed to using a setting of 20 degrees (15” Pitch)  With the boat set up like this, it checked all of the standard performance boxes.  Maximum engine RPM 3000: Check. Boat speed with a clean bottom: 8.0 knots, Check.  Should be perfect...

Except... under some conditions, the boat was just not happy.  Motoring into a strong headwind, or steep chop, and the engine RPM could not QUITE climb up high enough that the turbo boost come up enough to continue up the power curve.  It would “get stuck” at 1800 RPM and the boat would really struggle. In flat water, this never happened, it worked just as expected.

This might have been due to an aging powerplant (she’s up to 8200 hours) or some other quirk unique to our boat, but just in case anybody else is left with one of these engine/propeller combinations and has had some of the same issues, here is what we did.

It seemed the engine needed to be un-loaded just a tiny bit.  The next lower setting on the MaxProp is 18 degrees with gives a 13.5” Pitch.  All other things being equal, I calculated this as bringing the engine speed at any given boat speed up by about 8%.  I knew from observations if the engine reached 2100 that was more than enough to get the boost pressure up and let it generate full power.  After consulting people who know a lot more about turbochargers than I do, we made the change.

Maximum engine RPM is now about 3350RPM (still way below the engine makers recommended maximum) Highest boat speed is still just about 8.0 knots, maybe just a hair faster.  So that was all as expected.  The performance against headwinds and seas has dramatically improved.  We haven’t yet found any conditions where the boat gets “stuck.” Unless we find something dramatic, I expect this to be a change we will stick with.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Eleuthera, BS



Re: Play in Brunson H6 prop blade

Denis Elborn
 

Hi Mohammad,

When you replace the bearings there is adjustment to get the correct play which is locked by a locking ring, this may have come loose, assuming you don’t have a bearing problem.

I think it will be an ‘out of the water’ repair.

Regards, Denis
Fortune A54 #159
St. Raphael 


On 7 Jun 2021, at 9:01 am, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

It sounds to me like something was done wrong, or something is wrong. I have seen the bearings. That is way too much play.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Jun 6, 2021 at 4:52 PM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:
Hi everyone;

While diving to clean the hull and the prop, I noticed that one of the blades rocks back and forth about 1/8” to 1/4”. The other two are tight. 

The blades had new bearings installed in 2018  with about 1800 hours on the engine. This is about the time Brunton recommends an overhaul. The work was done at Manoel”s in Malta by workers that seemed competent.

Has anyone run into this ? Any information on repairs ot solutions would be appreciated.



Respectfully;


Mohammad Shirloo
+1-323-633-2222 Cell
+1-424-644-0908 Fax




Re: Play in Brunson H6 prop blade

 

It sounds to me like something was done wrong, or something is wrong. I have seen the bearings. That is way too much play.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Jun 6, 2021 at 4:52 PM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:
Hi everyone;

While diving to clean the hull and the prop, I noticed that one of the blades rocks back and forth about 1/8” to 1/4”. The other two are tight. 

The blades had new bearings installed in 2018  with about 1800 hours on the engine. This is about the time Brunton recommends an overhaul. The work was done at Manoel”s in Malta by workers that seemed competent.

Has anyone run into this ? Any information on repairs ot solutions would be appreciated.



Respectfully;


Mohammad Shirloo
+1-323-633-2222 Cell
+1-424-644-0908 Fax


Re: Prop Settings for older SM with Volvo/MaxProp

 

Bill,

Very interesting. You may be on to something. When I checked with MaxProp, I was told 22°

image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Jun 6, 2021 at 4:28 PM Bill Kinney <cruisingconsulting@...> wrote:
When we got our Amel (SM #160) it came with what was then the standard 22” diameter MaxProp. All of our documentation pointed to using a setting of 20 degrees (15” Pitch)  With the boat set up like this, it checked all of the standard performance boxes.  Maximum engine RPM 3000: Check. Boat speed with a clean bottom: 8.0 knots, Check.  Should be perfect...

Except... under some conditions, the boat was just not happy.  Motoring into a strong headwind, or steep chop, and the engine RPM could not QUITE climb up high enough that the turbo boost come up enough to continue up the power curve.  It would “get stuck” at 1800 RPM and the boat would really struggle. In flat water, this never happened, it worked just as expected.

This might have been due to an aging powerplant (she’s up to 8200 hours) or some other quirk unique to our boat, but just in case anybody else is left with one of these engine/propeller combinations and has had some of the same issues, here is what we did.

It seemed the engine needed to be un-loaded just a tiny bit.  The next lower setting on the MaxProp is 18 degrees with gives a 13.5” Pitch.  All other things being equal, I calculated this as bringing the engine speed at any given boat speed up by about 8%.  I knew from observations if the engine reached 2100 that was more than enough to get the boost pressure up and let it generate full power.  After consulting people who know a lot more about turbochargers than I do, we made the change.

Maximum engine RPM is now about 3350RPM (still way below the engine makers recommended maximum) Highest boat speed is still just about 8.0 knots, maybe just a hair faster.  So that was all as expected.  The performance against headwinds and seas has dramatically improved.  We haven’t yet found any conditions where the boat gets “stuck.” Unless we find something dramatic, I expect this to be a change we will stick with.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Eleuthera, BS



Re: Lofran windlass electro motor

 

The Foot Control momentary ON push-button switches are Vetus
switches and available at SAV@...

image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Jun 6, 2021 at 8:36 AM Olaf Bauer <olaf.bauer@...> wrote:

Hi Slavko,

 

Normally you can get them in (almost) every marine shop. I bought mine over there.

 

But you can also make a research on Amazon with the keywords “marine button rubber”. You will find some 😉

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Slavko Despotovic
Sent: Sonntag, 6. Juni 2021 03:21
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Lofran windlass electro motor

 

I got new motor and replacement was easy and massy. But it work now perfectly. One more question.  I would need to replace push button that is on the windlass itself. Any idea where I can order? I searched internet but no success.
Adding some photos.... 
--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Portoroz

1741 - 1760 of 60090