Date   

Re: ZF25 Transmission Dipstick / Fluid Level

Mark & Debbie Mueller
 

Dean,

 

Sorry for all your troubles but thank you for your information.  My wife had me check the dipstick this morning.  Oddly, as many things on this boat seem to be, the part number on this dipstick reads: HSW 530 A1-HS 450A2.  After running the engine for two minutes and shifting from forward to reverse several times the oil level read full on this dipstick.  Absent the part numbers you referenced I measured the oil level at approximately 100 mm from the sealing face and added oil accordingly.  The transmission model is ZF25 2.0.


Mark & Debbie Mueller

Brass Ring  A54 – 68

Groegetown, S.C.

brass.ring@...



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] ZF25 Transmission Failure

Porter McRoberts
 

And as I tell our girls when checking the fluid levels be careful on rescrewing in the dipstick. Thread mismatch and stripping has great consequences!!
A spare is a great idea. 

Porter 
154-54

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Jul 24, 2018, at 8:34 AM, 'Mohammad Shirloo' mshirloo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

It would appear that some kind of transmission pressure loss alarm would be appropriate since the results of a simple error of not tightening the filter cap (or other source of loss) would be catastrophic.

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

Amel 54 #099

 


From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2018 8:02 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] ZF25 Transmission Failure [3 Attachments]

 

 

Dean this was nearly precisely our story of failure on the way to virgins from USA. 

New tranny is an easy fix. Out and in a day. I helped the guy in st Thomas and learned a lot.  

Once a new one, bulletproof. 

 

But exactly the same symptoms. The pump looses pressure and the brake calipers close and then it’s clattering of gears and smoke dust from the pads. Luckily I (or my crew with 12 and 15year old hearing) could catch it in about 3-5seconds. I remember sitting on anchor in the middle of the intercostal for a day in Fort Lauderdale then getting my neighbors to pull us back home with their dinghies. Talk about demoralizing, all while moving onto the boat and selling the house etc. 

 

Interestingly it started after an oil filter change, (after an oil cooler change)The mechanic in Fort Lauderdale did not tighten the filter lid enough. Then the pump (suction) on the filter and dipstick side would fail and the pressure would drop and then the problem would arrive (loss of pump pressure, calipers failing and closing and then gear chattering etc).  Lots of help from Bill Rouse on getting focused on where the problem was. It was fixed (temporarily) by an astute old greyhaired navy transmission mechanic who immediately called the problem. He measured the pressure at the caliper hydraulic outlet. Upon engine start ok., but then would drop 30 seconds later, this indicated to him a seal failure.  He tightened the oil filter cap and presto problem solved. Until... 4 days of motoring out to the 65 from Fort Lauderdale and then failure. Despite tightening, and retightening and o-ring changes etc.  

 

We limped into st Thomas hoping for a few minutes of power ( as I tightened with great force on the oil filter cover) to get into a slip. Luckily we had 35 kts of wind to get us there almost too fast, but getting in a slip with that amount of wind and tranny as it was was a sphincter workout. But all ok. 

 

Interesting talking to the ZF dealer who had sent the “greyhair.”  (Now I don’t trust non-greyhairs)  They, the dealer (historically) would take all ZF25s and mill out another 1/100th of an inch on the body of the tranny where then oil filter cover would fit, to allow the filter cover to seat correctly. ZF finally recognized this and then changed it. My new tranny oil filter cover sits lower. Looking at the old and new side by side. Now: No suction. No problems. 

Not sure if that helps. We had about 1600 hours on the engine at tranny failure. 

 

The ZF trannies are common.. I bought  one from Fort Lauderdale and had it shipped from the ZF dealer. It turned out to be very inexpensive by st Thomas standards. I think around 2k for tranny and shipping. If my memory serves. 

 

I hope this helps. I, like your admiral had lost much faith, but I’ve regained it!  

Tell me if you want the ZF contact  

 

Porter, (Helen and Grace and Lilly, what amazing crew)

IBIS. 

54-152 vista mar marina panama. 

 

 

 

 

Begin forwarded message:

 

From: "trifin@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>

Date: July 24, 2018 at 5:08:54 AM EST

To: <amelyachtowners@...>

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] ZF25 Transmission Failure

Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...

 

 

Hi All,

After load testing this morning I am 99% sure my ZF25 transmission has failed.  

I know the root cause of the failure, and I will publish separately on that issue later.

 

I'm told by the ZF representatives that a new transmission will take at least 3 months to supply.  

I don't want to entertain re-conditioning of this box because I know the root cause of the problem.

 

Our sailing season is over before it started, the admiral is devastated and has lost all confidence in the boat.  We will most likely winterise the boat and go home soon. 

 

However, before I do that I'd like to convert that 99% to 100%, to be absolutely certain that the problem is the gearbox.  I'm finding it difficult to get the required level of professional support here in Kalamata, so I'm hoping for some sage guidance from the group. 

 

So, the symptoms...

 

Two weeks ago we started motoring due to no wind. Flat sea, running about 1700-1800rpm.

I started hearing some "modulation" of the engine tone, like wandering RPM. 

 

I also noticed the disappearance of a "rattle/chatter" sound which has always come from our Morse Control.  It's not a loud rattle, but is clearly transmitted from the gearbox up the gearshift cable and resonates from the hand control unit. (Is that a standard thing - or an early symptom of a gearbox problem?)

 

I thought we had something stuck on the propeller, so we stopped and I checked it. Nothing.

We started again and the boat would not run up to normal speeds for the RPM we were using.

 

We stopped again, and I checked the engine room once more. Fluids ok, no leaks, nothing looked out of the ordinary.  So  we continued and I increased the RPM to about 2000-2100, and continued on making only about 4 knots.

 

After 10 minutes or so, I opened the engine room again to check, and was met with an outburst of smoke, burning smell and everything was very hot.  After stopping and investigating further I found the cause of the overheat was that the shaft brake was stuck closed.  The ZF 25 gearbox was also very hot, and when I opened it to check the fluid again the lower part of the dipstick was melted into an elongated blob of plastic.   

There was no fluid leakage, so I assumed that the fluid  level was still ok. 

 

I found out how to undo the shaft brake, and wedged a spanner in it to make sure it stayed open. By then everything was cooled down and we proceeded to motor slowly to shore at about 1200rpm. Interestingly the "rattle" mentioned above was back.

 

We flushed and changed fluids and ran the boat gently for a day or two until we got to a marina.  

 

On testing the boat, we find that all is well until we exceed 2000rpm. Quite quickly after running at 2100rpm our little rattle stops, then the engine noise starts to waver and sounds like it it reducing in rpm, although the digital readout of rpm does not change from 2100rpm. The boat then starts to slow down from the 8.3 knots it was travelling at with 2000rpm. It drops a couple of knots.  On checking the shaft brake at this point it is still open so that is not the reason for slowing.  If I increase the engine power, we get no more thrust from the propeller.

 

After this happens, I struggle to generate thrust even at lower rpm.  Leaving everything to cool down completely appears to reset the problem. The rattle comes back, low RPM operation is ok, but when loaded up the gearbox seems to be failing.

 

The one thing which is niggling in my head is that the engine rpm sounds like it momentarily drops down when this problem occurs, although the rpm readout does not change. However, I can easily increase the engine RPM by pushing the lever, it just does not transfer to the prop, which seems to me like gearbox trouble.

 

All comments/suggestions appreciated.  We don't really want to give up on our summer cruising, and apart from that its cold back in Sydney!

 

Thanks all.

Dean

SY Stella 

Amel 54#154

 

 

 

 

   

 

 

 


On Jul 24, 2018, at 5:08 AM, trifin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi All,

After load testing this morning I am 99% sure my ZF25 transmission has failed.  

I know the root cause of the failure, and I will publish separately on that issue later.

 

I'm told by the ZF representatives that a new transmission will take at least 3 months to supply.  

I don't want to entertain re-conditioning of this box because I know the root cause of the problem.

 

Our sailing season is over before it started, the admiral is devastated and has lost all confidence in the boat.  We will most likely winterise the boat and go home soon. 

 

However, before I do that I'd like to convert that 99% to 100%, to be absolutely certain that the problem is the gearbox.  I'm finding it difficult to get the required level of professional support here in Kalamata, so I'm hoping for some sage guidance from the group. 

 

So, the symptoms...

 

Two weeks ago we started motoring due to no wind. Flat sea, running about 1700-1800rpm.

I started hearing some "modulation" of the engine tone, like wandering RPM. 

 

I also noticed the disappearance of a "rattle/chatter" sound which has always come from our Morse Control.  It's not a loud rattle, but is clearly transmitted from the gearbox up the gearshift cable and resonates from the hand control unit. (Is that a standard thing - or an early symptom of a gearbox problem?)

 

I thought we had something stuck on the propeller, so we stopped and I checked it. Nothing.

We started again and the boat would not run up to normal speeds for the RPM we were using.

 

We stopped again, and I checked the engine room once more. Fluids ok, no leaks, nothing looked out of the ordinary.  So  we continued and I increased the RPM to about 2000-2100, and continued on making only about 4 knots.

 

After 10 minutes or so, I opened the engine room again to check, and was met with an outburst of smoke, burning smell and everything was very hot.  After stopping and investigating further I found the cause of the overheat was that the shaft brake was stuck closed.  The ZF 25 gearbox was also very hot, and when I opened it to check the fluid again the lower part of the dipstick was melted into an elongated blob of plastic.   

There was no fluid leakage, so I assumed that the fluid  level was still ok. 



I found out how to undo the shaft brake, and wedged a spanner in it to make sure it stayed open. By then everything was cooled down and we proceeded to motor slowly to shore at about 1200rpm. Interestingly the "rattle" mentioned above was back.



We flushed and changed fluids and ran the boat gently for a day or two until we got to a marina.  

 

On testing the boat, we find that all is well until we exceed 2000rpm. Quite quickly after running at 2100rpm our little rattle stops, then the engine noise starts to waver and sounds like it it reducing in rpm, although the digital readout of rpm does not change from 2100rpm. The boat then starts to slow down from the 8.3 knots it was travelling at with 2000rpm. It drops a couple of knots.  On checking the shaft brake at this point it is still open so that is not the reason for slowing.  If I increase the engine power, we get no more thrust from the propeller.

 

After this happens, I struggle to generate thrust even at lower rpm.  Leaving everything to cool down completely appears to reset the problem. The rattle comes back, low RPM operation is ok, but when loaded up the gearbox seems to be failing.

 

The one thing which is niggling in my head is that the engine rpm sounds like it momentarily drops down when this problem occurs, although the rpm readout does not change. However, I can easily increase the engine RPM by pushing the lever, it just does not transfer to the prop, which seems to me like gearbox trouble.

 

All comments/suggestions appreciated.  We don't really want to give up on our summer cruising, and apart from that its cold back in Sydney!

 

Thanks all.

Dean

SY Stella 

Amel 54#154

 

 

 



   

 


Plastic caps over nuts securing windshield

Kaplan,Andre
 

I’m looking for replacements of the plastic caps which cover the nuts that secure the windshield.
Has anyone replaced these caps?
Can someone send me the email contact for the parts department at Amel? Is it “Maude??” who I should contact?
Thanks
Andre Kaplan
Mango 7188


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] ZF25 Transmission Failure [3 Attachments]

Mohammad Shirloo
 

It would appear that some kind of transmission pressure loss alarm would
be appropriate since the results of a simple error of not tightening the
filter cap (or other source of loss) would be catastrophic.



Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

Amel 54 #099



________________________________

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2018 8:02 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] ZF25 Transmission Failure [3
Attachments]





[Attachment(s) from Porter McRoberts included below]

Dean this was nearly precisely our story of failure on the way to
virgins from USA.

New tranny is an easy fix. Out and in a day. I helped the guy in st
Thomas and learned a lot.

Once a new one, bulletproof.



But exactly the same symptoms. The pump looses pressure and the brake
calipers close and then it's clattering of gears and smoke dust from the
pads. Luckily I (or my crew with 12 and 15year old hearing) could catch
it in about 3-5seconds. I remember sitting on anchor in the middle of
the intercostal for a day in Fort Lauderdale then getting my neighbors
to pull us back home with their dinghies. Talk about demoralizing, all
while moving onto the boat and selling the house etc.



Interestingly it started after an oil filter change, (after an oil
cooler change)The mechanic in Fort Lauderdale did not tighten the filter
lid enough. Then the pump (suction) on the filter and dipstick side
would fail and the pressure would drop and then the problem would arrive
(loss of pump pressure, calipers failing and closing and then gear
chattering etc). Lots of help from Bill Rouse on getting focused on
where the problem was. It was fixed (temporarily) by an astute old
greyhaired navy transmission mechanic who immediately called the
problem. He measured the pressure at the caliper hydraulic outlet. Upon
engine start ok., but then would drop 30 seconds later, this indicated
to him a seal failure. He tightened the oil filter cap and presto
problem solved. Until... 4 days of motoring out to the 65 from Fort
Lauderdale and then failure. Despite tightening, and retightening and
o-ring changes etc.



We limped into st Thomas hoping for a few minutes of power ( as I
tightened with great force on the oil filter cover) to get into a slip.
Luckily we had 35 kts of wind to get us there almost too fast, but
getting in a slip with that amount of wind and tranny as it was was a
sphincter workout. But all ok.



Interesting talking to the ZF dealer who had sent the "greyhair." (Now
I don't trust non-greyhairs) They, the dealer (historically) would take
all ZF25s and mill out another 1/100th of an inch on the body of the
tranny where then oil filter cover would fit, to allow the filter cover
to seat correctly. ZF finally recognized this and then changed it. My
new tranny oil filter cover sits lower. Looking at the old and new side
by side. Now: No suction. No problems.

Not sure if that helps. We had about 1600 hours on the engine at tranny
failure.



The ZF trannies are common.. I bought one from Fort Lauderdale and had
it shipped from the ZF dealer. It turned out to be very inexpensive by
st Thomas standards. I think around 2k for tranny and shipping. If my
memory serves.



I hope this helps. I, like your admiral had lost much faith, but I've
regained it!

Tell me if you want the ZF contact



Porter, (Helen and Grace and Lilly, what amazing crew)

IBIS.

54-152 vista mar marina panama.
Begin forwarded message:



From: "trifin@soundthinking.com.au [amelyachtowners]"
<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>

Date: July 24, 2018 at 5:08:54 AM EST

To: <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] ZF25 Transmission Failure

Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com





Hi All,

After load testing this morning I am 99% sure my ZF25 transmission has
failed.

I know the root cause of the failure, and I will publish separately on
that issue later.



I'm told by the ZF representatives that a new transmission will take at
least 3 months to supply.

I don't want to entertain re-conditioning of this box because I know the
root cause of the problem.



Our sailing season is over before it started, the admiral is devastated
and has lost all confidence in the boat. We will most likely winterise
the boat and go home soon.



However, before I do that I'd like to convert that 99% to 100%, to be
absolutely certain that the problem is the gearbox. I'm finding it
difficult to get the required level of professional support here in
Kalamata, so I'm hoping for some sage guidance from the group.



So, the symptoms...



Two weeks ago we started motoring due to no wind. Flat sea, running
about 1700-1800rpm.

I started hearing some "modulation" of the engine tone, like wandering
RPM.



I also noticed the disappearance of a "rattle/chatter" sound which has
always come from our Morse Control. It's not a loud rattle, but is
clearly transmitted from the gearbox up the gearshift cable and
resonates from the hand control unit. (Is that a standard thing - or an
early symptom of a gearbox problem?)



I thought we had something stuck on the propeller, so we stopped and I
checked it. Nothing.

We started again and the boat would not run up to normal speeds for the
RPM we were using.



We stopped again, and I checked the engine room once more. Fluids ok, no
leaks, nothing looked out of the ordinary. So we continued and I
increased the RPM to about 2000-2100, and continued on making only about
4 knots.



After 10 minutes or so, I opened the engine room again to check, and was
met with an outburst of smoke, burning smell and everything was very
hot. After stopping and investigating further I found the cause of the
overheat was that the shaft brake was stuck closed. The ZF 25 gearbox
was also very hot, and when I opened it to check the fluid again the
lower part of the dipstick was melted into an elongated blob of plastic.


There was no fluid leakage, so I assumed that the fluid level was still
ok.



I found out how to undo the shaft brake, and wedged a spanner in it to
make sure it stayed open. By then everything was cooled down and we
proceeded to motor slowly to shore at about 1200rpm. Interestingly the
"rattle" mentioned above was back.



We flushed and changed fluids and ran the boat gently for a day or two
until we got to a marina.



On testing the boat, we find that all is well until we exceed 2000rpm.
Quite quickly after running at 2100rpm our little rattle stops, then the
engine noise starts to waver and sounds like it it reducing in rpm,
although the digital readout of rpm does not change from 2100rpm. The
boat then starts to slow down from the 8.3 knots it was travelling at
with 2000rpm. It drops a couple of knots. On checking the shaft brake
at this point it is still open so that is not the reason for slowing.
If I increase the engine power, we get no more thrust from the
propeller.



After this happens, I struggle to generate thrust even at lower rpm.
Leaving everything to cool down completely appears to reset the problem.
The rattle comes back, low RPM operation is ok, but when loaded up the
gearbox seems to be failing.



The one thing which is niggling in my head is that the engine rpm sounds
like it momentarily drops down when this problem occurs, although the
rpm readout does not change. However, I can easily increase the engine
RPM by pushing the lever, it just does not transfer to the prop, which
seems to me like gearbox trouble.



All comments/suggestions appreciated. We don't really want to give up
on our summer cruising, and apart from that its cold back in Sydney!



Thanks all.

Dean

SY Stella

Amel 54#154

On Jul 24, 2018, at 5:08 AM, trifin@soundthinking.com.au
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:



Hi All,

After load testing this morning I am 99% sure my ZF25
transmission has failed.

I know the root cause of the failure, and I will publish
separately on that issue later.



I'm told by the ZF representatives that a new transmission will
take at least 3 months to supply.

I don't want to entertain re-conditioning of this box because I
know the root cause of the problem.



Our sailing season is over before it started, the admiral is
devastated and has lost all confidence in the boat. We will most likely
winterise the boat and go home soon.



However, before I do that I'd like to convert that 99% to 100%,
to be absolutely certain that the problem is the gearbox. I'm finding
it difficult to get the required level of professional support here in
Kalamata, so I'm hoping for some sage guidance from the group.



So, the symptoms...



Two weeks ago we started motoring due to no wind. Flat sea,
running about 1700-1800rpm.

I started hearing some "modulation" of the engine tone, like
wandering RPM.



I also noticed the disappearance of a "rattle/chatter" sound
which has always come from our Morse Control. It's not a loud rattle,
but is clearly transmitted from the gearbox up the gearshift cable and
resonates from the hand control unit. (Is that a standard thing - or an
early symptom of a gearbox problem?)



I thought we had something stuck on the propeller, so we stopped
and I checked it. Nothing.

We started again and the boat would not run up to normal speeds
for the RPM we were using.



We stopped again, and I checked the engine room once more.
Fluids ok, no leaks, nothing looked out of the ordinary. So we
continued and I increased the RPM to about 2000-2100, and continued on
making only about 4 knots.



After 10 minutes or so, I opened the engine room again to check,
and was met with an outburst of smoke, burning smell and everything was
very hot. After stopping and investigating further I found the cause of
the overheat was that the shaft brake was stuck closed. The ZF 25
gearbox was also very hot, and when I opened it to check the fluid again
the lower part of the dipstick was melted into an elongated blob of
plastic.

There was no fluid leakage, so I assumed that the fluid level
was still ok.





I found out how to undo the shaft brake, and wedged a spanner in
it to make sure it stayed open. By then everything was cooled down and
we proceeded to motor slowly to shore at about 1200rpm. Interestingly
the "rattle" mentioned above was back.





We flushed and changed fluids and ran the boat gently for a day
or two until we got to a marina.



On testing the boat, we find that all is well until we exceed
2000rpm. Quite quickly after running at 2100rpm our little rattle stops,
then the engine noise starts to waver and sounds like it it reducing in
rpm, although the digital readout of rpm does not change from 2100rpm.
The boat then starts to slow down from the 8.3 knots it was travelling
at with 2000rpm. It drops a couple of knots. On checking the shaft
brake at this point it is still open so that is not the reason for
slowing. If I increase the engine power, we get no more thrust from the
propeller.



After this happens, I struggle to generate thrust even at lower
rpm. Leaving everything to cool down completely appears to reset the
problem. The rattle comes back, low RPM operation is ok, but when loaded
up the gearbox seems to be failing.



The one thing which is niggling in my head is that the engine
rpm sounds like it momentarily drops down when this problem occurs,
although the rpm readout does not change. However, I can easily increase
the engine RPM by pushing the lever, it just does not transfer to the
prop, which seems to me like gearbox trouble.



All comments/suggestions appreciated. We don't really want to
give up on our summer cruising, and apart from that its cold back in
Sydney!



Thanks all.

Dean

SY Stella

Amel 54#154


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] ZF25 Transmission Dipstick / Fluid Level

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hello Dean;

 

Thank you for taking the time for posting this critical information.

 

We have dipstick part number 3311 301 003, which would be the correct dipstick according to the information you posted. Can you please let us know if you received this information directly from the manufacturer or another source?

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

Amel 54 #099

 


From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2018 6:38 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] ZF25 Transmission Dipstick / Fluid Level

 

 

IMPORTANT NOTICE

 

To all Amel Owners,

 

I have recently had a failure event with my ZF25 gearbox. You can read about it further in Topic #41215 on this forum.  In that failure event, the dipstick for my ZF25 was damaged, and so I needed some means of checking fluid level until a new dipstick was delivered.

 

I then embarked on a very confusing 2 week journey of trying to determine independently where the correct fluid level should be in a ZF25 gearbox without reference to a dipstick. The results of this are very significant for Amel owners with ZF25 gearboxes.

 

Please note the following:

 

1. ZF Marine have informed me that ALL user manuals, parts lists, service manuals, brochures, marketing specs, website data etc for the ZF25 gearbox which state that the fluid capacity of the gearbox is 2.0Litres, are all incorrect.  

 

2. The correct fluid level for the ZF25 gearbox is 3.0L, but this figure only appears in the original installation drawing of the ZF25 (in Italian), which ZF sent to me and I will post on the forum files archive.  

 

3. Some owners will already suspect that it is really a 3L box because they will add 2.0L as specified in the manual, and then wonder why they needed to add another full litre to bring it up to the top of their dipstick. These owners have a "short" dipstick and can rest easy.

 

4. However, some owners will add 2.0l and find that its already close to the full mark on their dipstick.  If you are one of those owners then this message is addressed to you.

 

5. I know that some Amel 54 models have been supplied with an incorrect dipstick.  This dipstick is too long and reads "full" when 2 litres of fluid is present in the gearbox. These boats have been operating one litre short of fluid, which equates to a fluid level which is about 20mm too low.

 

7. I do not know who made the change of dipstick in the production process of these boats, but I can guess why they made the change, that is to try and match the disptick to the 2litre capacity widely published by ZF.

 

I urge all owners to check your dipstick against the following information:

 

If you have a dipstick with part numbers

 

3312-301-028 or 3312-201-002 

 

then you have the wrong dipstick and your ZF25 is at risk of damage due to low fluid level.

 

If you have a dipstick with part numbers 

 

3311-301-003 or 3311-201-001

 

then you have the correct dipstick and you will have the correct 3.0l of fluid in your gearbox.

 

If you have already experienced the failure and have replaced your gearbox with a new one from ZF, then you will most likely have the correct dipstick. 

 

Finally, as an absolute measure, the correct fluid level is between 84.5mm and 96.5mm from the mating face of the dipstick hole. 

 

I do not know if this problem ever affected SM production, but I do know that the documentation error from ZF was present in 2002. 

 

I am collating a private list of hull numbers which have been affected by this issue, and I would really appreciate if owners would email me privately on the email below

or simply post here on the forum.

 

I'd like to know your hull number and :

1. whether you have the long (incorrect) dipstick and if you've had transmission troubles,

2. If you have the short (correct) dipstick, have you renewed your transmission (or dipstick) since the the boat was delivered new.

 

 

Thank you

Dr Dean Gillies

SY STELLA

AMEL 54 #154

+61 411 967106

trifin (at) soundthinking (dot) com (dot) au

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] ZF25 Transmission Failure

Porter McRoberts
 

Dean this was nearly precisely our story of failure on the way to virgins from USA. 

New tranny is an easy fix. Out and in a day. I helped the guy in st Thomas and learned a lot.  

Once a new one, bulletproof. 


But exactly the same symptoms. The pump looses pressure and the brake calipers close and then it’s clattering of gears and smoke dust from the pads. Luckily I (or my crew with 12 and 15year old hearing) could catch it in about 3-5seconds. I remember sitting on anchor in the middle of the intercostal for a day in Fort Lauderdale then getting my neighbors to pull us back home with their dinghies. Talk about demoralizing, all while moving onto the boat and selling the house etc. 


Interestingly it started after an oil filter change, (after an oil cooler change)The mechanic in Fort Lauderdale did not tighten the filter lid enough. Then the pump (suction) on the filter and dipstick side would fail and the pressure would drop and then the problem would arrive (loss of pump pressure, calipers failing and closing and then gear chattering etc).  Lots of help from Bill Rouse on getting focused on where the problem was. It was fixed (temporarily) by an astute old greyhaired navy transmission mechanic who immediately called the problem. He measured the pressure at the caliper hydraulic outlet. Upon engine start ok., but then would drop 30 seconds later, this indicated to him a seal failure.  He tightened the oil filter cap and presto problem solved. Until... 4 days of motoring out to the 65 from Fort Lauderdale and then failure. Despite tightening, and retightening and o-ring changes etc.  


We limped into st Thomas hoping for a few minutes of power ( as I tightened with great force on the oil filter cover) to get into a slip. Luckily we had 35 kts of wind to get us there almost too fast, but getting in a slip with that amount of wind and tranny as it was was a sphincter workout. But all ok. 


Interesting talking to the ZF dealer who had sent the “greyhair.”  (Now I don’t trust non-greyhairs)  They, the dealer (historically) would take all ZF25s and mill out another 1/100th of an inch on the body of the tranny where then oil filter cover would fit, to allow the filter cover to seat correctly. ZF finally recognized this and then changed it. My new tranny oil filter cover sits lower. Looking at the old and new side by side. Now: No suction. No problems. 

Not sure if that helps. We had about 1600 hours on the engine at tranny failure. 


The ZF trannies are common. I bought  one from Fort Lauderdale and had it shipped from the ZF dealer. It turned out to be very inexpensive by st Thomas standards. I think around 2k for tranny and shipping. If my memory serves. 


I hope this helps. I, like your admiral had lost much faith, but I’ve regained it!  

Tell me if you want the ZF contact  


Porter, (Helen and Grace and Lilly, what amazing crew)

IBIS. 

54-152 vista mar marina panama. 





Begin forwarded message:


From: "trifin@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>

Date: July 24, 2018 at 5:08:54 AM EST

To: <amelyachtowners@...>

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] ZF25 Transmission Failure

Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...



Hi All,

After load testing this morning I am 99% sure my ZF25 transmission has failed.  

I know the root cause of the failure, and I will publish separately on that issue later.


I'm told by the ZF representatives that a new transmission will take at least 3 months to supply.  

I don't want to entertain re-conditioning of this box because I know the root cause of the problem.


Our sailing season is over before it started, the admiral is devastated and has lost all confidence in the boat.  We will most likely winterise the boat and go home soon. 

 

However, before I do that I'd like to convert that 99% to 100%, to be absolutely certain that the problem is the gearbox.  I'm finding it difficult to get the required level of professional support here in Kalamata, so I'm hoping for some sage guidance from the group. 


So, the symptoms...


Two weeks ago we started motoring due to no wind. Flat sea, running about 1700-1800rpm.

I started hearing some "modulation" of the engine tone, like wandering RPM. 


I also noticed the disappearance of a "rattle/chatter" sound which has always come from our Morse Control.  It's not a loud rattle, but is clearly transmitted from the gearbox up the gearshift cable and resonates from the hand control unit. (Is that a standard thing - or an early symptom of a gearbox problem?)


I thought we had something stuck on the propeller, so we stopped and I checked it. Nothing.

We started again and the boat would not run up to normal speeds for the RPM we were using.


We stopped again, and I checked the engine room once more. Fluids ok, no leaks, nothing looked out of the ordinary.  So  we continued and I increased the RPM to about 2000-2100, and continued on making only about 4 knots.


After 10 minutes or so, I opened the engine room again to check, and was met with an outburst of smoke, burning smell and everything was very hot.  After stopping and investigating further I found the cause of the overheat was that the shaft brake was stuck closed.  The ZF 25 gearbox was also very hot, and when I opened it to check the fluid again the lower part of the dipstick was melted into an elongated blob of plastic.   

There was no fluid leakage, so I assumed that the fluid  level was still ok. 


I found out how to undo the shaft brake, and wedged a spanner in it to make sure it stayed open. By then everything was cooled down and we proceeded to motor slowly to shore at about 1200rpm. Interestingly the "rattle" mentioned above was back.


We flushed and changed fluids and ran the boat gently for a day or two until we got to a marina.  


On testing the boat, we find that all is well until we exceed 2000rpm. Quite quickly after running at 2100rpm our little rattle stops, then the engine noise starts to waver and sounds like it it reducing in rpm, although the digital readout of rpm does not change from 2100rpm. The boat then starts to slow down from the 8.3 knots it was travelling at with 2000rpm. It drops a couple of knots.  On checking the shaft brake at this point it is still open so that is not the reason for slowing.  If I increase the engine power, we get no more thrust from the propeller.


After this happens, I struggle to generate thrust even at lower rpm.  Leaving everything to cool down completely appears to reset the problem. The rattle comes back, low RPM operation is ok, but when loaded up the gearbox seems to be failing.


The one thing which is niggling in my head is that the engine rpm sounds like it momentarily drops down when this problem occurs, although the rpm readout does not change. However, I can easily increase the engine RPM by pushing the lever, it just does not transfer to the prop, which seems to me like gearbox trouble.


All comments/suggestions appreciated.  We don't really want to give up on our summer cruising, and apart from that its cold back in Sydney!


Thanks all.

Dean

SY Stella 

Amel 54#154





   

 




On Jul 24, 2018, at 5:08 AM, trifin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi All,

After load testing this morning I am 99% sure my ZF25 transmission has failed.  

I know the root cause of the failure, and I will publish separately on that issue later.


I'm told by the ZF representatives that a new transmission will take at least 3 months to supply.  

I don't want to entertain re-conditioning of this box because I know the root cause of the problem.


Our sailing season is over before it started, the admiral is devastated and has lost all confidence in the boat.  We will most likely winterise the boat and go home soon. 

 

However, before I do that I'd like to convert that 99% to 100%, to be absolutely certain that the problem is the gearbox.  I'm finding it difficult to get the required level of professional support here in Kalamata, so I'm hoping for some sage guidance from the group. 


So, the symptoms...


Two weeks ago we started motoring due to no wind. Flat sea, running about 1700-1800rpm.

I started hearing some "modulation" of the engine tone, like wandering RPM. 


I also noticed the disappearance of a "rattle/chatter" sound which has always come from our Morse Control.  It's not a loud rattle, but is clearly transmitted from the gearbox up the gearshift cable and resonates from the hand control unit. (Is that a standard thing - or an early symptom of a gearbox problem?)


I thought we had something stuck on the propeller, so we stopped and I checked it. Nothing.

We started again and the boat would not run up to normal speeds for the RPM we were using.


We stopped again, and I checked the engine room once more. Fluids ok, no leaks, nothing looked out of the ordinary.  So  we continued and I increased the RPM to about 2000-2100, and continued on making only about 4 knots.


After 10 minutes or so, I opened the engine room again to check, and was met with an outburst of smoke, burning smell and everything was very hot.  After stopping and investigating further I found the cause of the overheat was that the shaft brake was stuck closed.  The ZF 25 gearbox was also very hot, and when I opened it to check the fluid again the lower part of the dipstick was melted into an elongated blob of plastic.   

There was no fluid leakage, so I assumed that the fluid  level was still ok. 


I found out how to undo the shaft brake, and wedged a spanner in it to make sure it stayed open. By then everything was cooled down and we proceeded to motor slowly to shore at about 1200rpm. Interestingly the "rattle" mentioned above was back.


We flushed and changed fluids and ran the boat gently for a day or two until we got to a marina.  


On testing the boat, we find that all is well until we exceed 2000rpm. Quite quickly after running at 2100rpm our little rattle stops, then the engine noise starts to waver and sounds like it it reducing in rpm, although the digital readout of rpm does not change from 2100rpm. The boat then starts to slow down from the 8.3 knots it was travelling at with 2000rpm. It drops a couple of knots.  On checking the shaft brake at this point it is still open so that is not the reason for slowing.  If I increase the engine power, we get no more thrust from the propeller.


After this happens, I struggle to generate thrust even at lower rpm.  Leaving everything to cool down completely appears to reset the problem. The rattle comes back, low RPM operation is ok, but when loaded up the gearbox seems to be failing.


The one thing which is niggling in my head is that the engine rpm sounds like it momentarily drops down when this problem occurs, although the rpm readout does not change. However, I can easily increase the engine RPM by pushing the lever, it just does not transfer to the prop, which seems to me like gearbox trouble.


All comments/suggestions appreciated.  We don't really want to give up on our summer cruising, and apart from that its cold back in Sydney!


Thanks all.

Dean

SY Stella 

Amel 54#154





   

 


Re: ZF25 Transmission Failure

dr_hofschulte
 

mit freundlichen Grüßen

Dr. H.-J. Hofschulte
www.diezahnkuenstler.de


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] ZF25 Transmission Dipstick / Fluid Level

Dean Gillies
 

Hi Alexandre,

Yes its interesting.  

I dont know who changed the dipsticks. Personally I don't believe ZF shipped the wrong ones, I think they were changed by someone to try and match the ZF published capacity of 2Litres.

If you use the correct dipstick, you might wonder about the extra fluid needed, but you will always end up with 3l because you use the dipstick as the master reference.

Cheers
Dean

 


Masse Light and March Pump

Duane Siegfri
 

I replaced the freshwater pump with a Marco UP3 electronic gear pump.  It has a magnetic drive.  The old pump had a bonding wire, so I attached it to the base of the new pump.  I did not hook up the "active" red light on the 24V power panel however, since we can hear this pump operate.


Now I'm getting a warning light on the "leak detector" for the bonding system for the "Ground +".  When I shut off power to the water pump, the warning light no longer illuminates.    


Since this unit uses a magnetic drive, is that causing some voltage in the bonding wire?  Should I simply disconnect the bonding wire from the pump? 


Thanks,

Duane

Wanderer, SM#477


Re: ZF25 Transmission Failure

Dean Gillies
 

Hi Duane,
Thanks for that info.  I am planning to address the cooler replacement, at least to carry a spare.

I cannot yet say for certain that the cooler is operating at maximum efficiency, however I am sure we don't have a leak of fluid or any seawater ingress. When we reached shore after the event, I drained 2.05 litres of fluid from the transmission. It looked perfect. I have now changed the fluid about 4 times, and have not noticead any signs of seawater.
   
I'm fairly confident the biggest source of heat in the event was the brake disk (which is now beautifully polished !) which transferred to the transmission, metal to metal. Immediately after the event, the Volvo temp sensor was showing 80deg which is fairly normal for running at 2000.

Cheers
Dean



New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

amelyachtowners@...
 

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
group.

File : /ZF 25 Transmission/ZF 25_INSTALLATION DRAWING_3315600010-1.pdf
Uploaded by : mariner62@ymail.com <trifin@soundthinking.com.au>
Description : Installation drawing received from ZF showing correct fluid capacity of 3.0L

You can access this file at the URL:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/files/ZF%2025%20Transmission/ZF%2025_INSTALLATION%20DRAWING_3315600010-1.pdf

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
https://help.yahoo.com/kb/index?page=content&y=PROD_GRPS&locale=en_US&id=SLN15398

Regards,

mariner62@ymail.com <trifin@soundthinking.com.au>


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] ZF25 Transmission Dipstick / Fluid Level

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Thanks so much for the info, which is critical.

That is absolutely crazy a company such as ZF could make such mistake and not (really) address it for so many years…
All manufacturers should have been warn about that with the proper dipstick sent…

Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 7/24/18, trifin@soundthinking.com.au [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] ZF25 Transmission Dipstick / Fluid Level
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, July 24, 2018, 6:38 AM


 









IMPORTANT NOTICE
To all Amel Owners,
I have recently had a failure event with
my ZF25 gearbox. You can read about it further in Topic
#41215 on this forum.  In that failure event, the dipstick
for my ZF25 was damaged, and so I needed some means of
checking fluid level until a new dipstick was
delivered.
I then embarked on
a very confusing 2 week journey of trying to determine
independently where the correct fluid level should be in a
ZF25 gearbox without reference to a dipstick. The results of
this are very significant for Amel owners with ZF25
gearboxes.
Please note the
following:
1. ZF Marine have
informed me that ALL user manuals, parts lists, service
manuals, brochures, marketing specs, website data etc for
the ZF25 gearbox which state that the fluid capacity of the
gearbox is 2.0Litres, are all incorrect.  
2. The correct fluid level for the ZF25
gearbox is 3.0L, but this figure only appears in the
original installation drawing of the ZF25 (in Italian),
which ZF sent to me and I will post on the forum files
archive.  
3. Some owners
will already suspect that it is really a 3L box because they
will add 2.0L as specified in the manual, and then wonder
why they needed to add another full litre to bring it up to
the top of their dipstick. These owners have a
"short" dipstick and can rest easy.
4. However, some owners will add 2.0l
and find that its already close to the full mark on their
dipstick.  If you are one of those owners then this message
is addressed to you.
5. I know
that some Amel 54 models have been supplied with an
incorrect dipstick.  This dipstick is too long and reads
"full" when 2 litres of fluid is present in the
gearbox. These boats have been operating one litre short of
fluid, which equates to a fluid level which is about 20mm
too low.
7. I do not know who
made the change of dipstick in the production process of
these boats, but I can guess why they made the change, that
is to try and match the disptick to the 2litre capacity
widely published by ZF.
I urge
all owners to check your dipstick against the following
information:
If you have a
dipstick with part numbers
3312-301-028 or 3312-201-002 
then you have the wrong dipstick and
your ZF25 is at risk of damage due to low fluid
level.
If you have a dipstick
with part numbers 
3311-301-003 or 3311-201-001
then you have the correct dipstick and
you will have the correct 3.0l of fluid in your
gearbox.
If you have already
experienced the failure and have replaced your gearbox with
a new one from ZF, then you will most likely have the
correct dipstick. 
Finally,
as an absolute measure, the correct fluid level is between
84.5mm and 96.5mm from the mating face of the dipstick
hole. 
I do not know if this
problem ever affected SM production, but I do know that the
documentation error from ZF was present in 2002. 
I am collating a private list of hull
numbers which have been affected by this issue, and I would
really appreciate if owners would email me privately on the
email belowor simply post here on the
forum.
I'd like to know
your hull number and :1. whether you have the long
(incorrect) dipstick and if you've had transmission
troubles,2. If you have the short (correct) dipstick,
have you renewed your transmission (or dipstick) since the
the boat was delivered new.

Thank
youDr Dean GilliesSY STELLAAMEL 54
#154+61 411 967106trifin (at) soundthinking
(dot) com (dot) au


Re: ZF25 Transmission Failure

Duane Siegfri
 

One reason for the transmission heating up "could be" that your transmission oil cooler is compromised.  You said the dipstick was melted and since there was no leakage of fluid, you assumed that it was still full of transmission fluid.

I had a similiar problem with my Amel SM.  The cooler developed a hole in the cooler tubes that permitted the seawater and the transmission fluid to mix.  Eventually the hole in the cooler tubes was big enough, that the suction from the engine seawater pump sucked the fluid out of the transmission.  Prior to the complete failure of the transmission, the seawater mixed with the transmission fluid and rusted the inner workings of the transmission.  So, in my case, the transmission had to be replaced.

Have you ever noticed that the engine exhaust/water leaves an oil sheen on the water?

Pull some of the fluid out of the transmission and see if it looks right, or is milky or watery.

Here's the thing, if you have to replace the transmission, be sure to replace the transmission cooler.  I'm not sure of a reasonable interval to replace them, but for $200 or so, it's good insurance.  Mine failed at about 2,000 engine hours.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


ZF25 Transmission Dipstick / Fluid Level

Dean Gillies
 

IMPORTANT NOTICE


To all Amel Owners,


I have recently had a failure event with my ZF25 gearbox. You can read about it further in Topic #41215 on this forum.  In that failure event, the dipstick for my ZF25 was damaged, and so I needed some means of checking fluid level until a new dipstick was delivered.


I then embarked on a very confusing 2 week journey of trying to determine independently where the correct fluid level should be in a ZF25 gearbox without reference to a dipstick. The results of this are very significant for Amel owners with ZF25 gearboxes.


Please note the following:


1. ZF Marine have informed me that ALL user manuals, parts lists, service manuals, brochures, marketing specs, website data etc for the ZF25 gearbox which state that the fluid capacity of the gearbox is 2.0Litres, are all incorrect.  


2. The correct fluid level for the ZF25 gearbox is 3.0L, but this figure only appears in the original installation drawing of the ZF25 (in Italian), which ZF sent to me and I will post on the forum files archive.  


3. Some owners will already suspect that it is really a 3L box because they will add 2.0L as specified in the manual, and then wonder why they needed to add another full litre to bring it up to the top of their dipstick. These owners have a "short" dipstick and can rest easy.


4. However, some owners will add 2.0l and find that its already close to the full mark on their dipstick.  If you are one of those owners then this message is addressed to you.


5. I know that some Amel 54 models have been supplied with an incorrect dipstick.  This dipstick is too long and reads "full" when 2 litres of fluid is present in the gearbox. These boats have been operating one litre short of fluid, which equates to a fluid level which is about 20mm too low.


7. I do not know who made the change of dipstick in the production process of these boats, but I can guess why they made the change, that is to try and match the disptick to the 2litre capacity widely published by ZF.


I urge all owners to check your dipstick against the following information:


If you have a dipstick with part numbers


3312-301-028 or 3312-201-002 


then you have the wrong dipstick and your ZF25 is at risk of damage due to low fluid level.


If you have a dipstick with part numbers 


3311-301-003 or 3311-201-001


then you have the correct dipstick and you will have the correct 3.0l of fluid in your gearbox.


If you have already experienced the failure and have replaced your gearbox with a new one from ZF, then you will most likely have the correct dipstick. 


Finally, as an absolute measure, the correct fluid level is between 84.5mm and 96.5mm from the mating face of the dipstick hole. 


I do not know if this problem ever affected SM production, but I do know that the documentation error from ZF was present in 2002. 


I am collating a private list of hull numbers which have been affected by this issue, and I would really appreciate if owners would email me privately on the email below

or simply post here on the forum.


I'd like to know your hull number and :

1. whether you have the long (incorrect) dipstick and if you've had transmission troubles,

2. If you have the short (correct) dipstick, have you renewed your transmission (or dipstick) since the the boat was delivered new.



Thank you

Dr Dean Gillies

SY STELLA

AMEL 54 #154

+61 411 967106

trifin (at) soundthinking (dot) com (dot) au



ZF25 Transmission Failure

Dean Gillies
 

Hi All,

After load testing this morning I am 99% sure my ZF25 transmission has failed.  

I know the root cause of the failure, and I will publish separately on that issue later.


I'm told by the ZF representatives that a new transmission will take at least 3 months to supply.  

I don't want to entertain re-conditioning of this box because I know the root cause of the problem.


Our sailing season is over before it started, the admiral is devastated and has lost all confidence in the boat.  We will most likely winterise the boat and go home soon. 

 

However, before I do that I'd like to convert that 99% to 100%, to be absolutely certain that the problem is the gearbox.  I'm finding it difficult to get the required level of professional support here in Kalamata, so I'm hoping for some sage guidance from the group. 


So, the symptoms...


Two weeks ago we started motoring due to no wind. Flat sea, running about 1700-1800rpm.

I started hearing some "modulation" of the engine tone, like wandering RPM. 


I also noticed the disappearance of a "rattle/chatter" sound which has always come from our Morse Control.  It's not a loud rattle, but is clearly transmitted from the gearbox up the gearshift cable and resonates from the hand control unit. (Is that a standard thing - or an early symptom of a gearbox problem?)


I thought we had something stuck on the propeller, so we stopped and I checked it. Nothing.

We started again and the boat would not run up to normal speeds for the RPM we were using.


We stopped again, and I checked the engine room once more. Fluids ok, no leaks, nothing looked out of the ordinary.  So  we continued and I increased the RPM to about 2000-2100, and continued on making only about 4 knots.


After 10 minutes or so, I opened the engine room again to check, and was met with an outburst of smoke, burning smell and everything was very hot.  After stopping and investigating further I found the cause of the overheat was that the shaft brake was stuck closed.  The ZF 25 gearbox was also very hot, and when I opened it to check the fluid again the lower part of the dipstick was melted into an elongated blob of plastic.   

There was no fluid leakage, so I assumed that the fluid  level was still ok. 


I found out how to undo the shaft brake, and wedged a spanner in it to make sure it stayed open. By then everything was cooled down and we proceeded to motor slowly to shore at about 1200rpm. Interestingly the "rattle" mentioned above was back.


We flushed and changed fluids and ran the boat gently for a day or two until we got to a marina.  


On testing the boat, we find that all is well until we exceed 2000rpm. Quite quickly after running at 2100rpm our little rattle stops, then the engine noise starts to waver and sounds like it it reducing in rpm, although the digital readout of rpm does not change from 2100rpm. The boat then starts to slow down from the 8.3 knots it was travelling at with 2000rpm. It drops a couple of knots.  On checking the shaft brake at this point it is still open so that is not the reason for slowing.  If I increase the engine power, we get no more thrust from the propeller.


After this happens, I struggle to generate thrust even at lower rpm.  Leaving everything to cool down completely appears to reset the problem. The rattle comes back, low RPM operation is ok, but when loaded up the gearbox seems to be failing.


The one thing which is niggling in my head is that the engine rpm sounds like it momentarily drops down when this problem occurs, although the rpm readout does not change. However, I can easily increase the engine RPM by pushing the lever, it just does not transfer to the prop, which seems to me like gearbox trouble.


All comments/suggestions appreciated.  We don't really want to give up on our summer cruising, and apart from that its cold back in Sydney!


Thanks all.

Dean

SY Stella 

Amel 54#154





   

 


Re: Freshwater Pump - cycles rapidly

Dean Gillies
 

Thanks Alan
Sounds like the Marco pump is the way to go.
I will get to that - at this stage I have bigger problems on my plate ... but that's a whole other topic!
Cheers
Dean


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SVRascal

Jean-Pierre's MacBook Air <jgermain@...>
 

Hello Rick& Linda,

Hold the sale… turn her around through the Panama Canal and the Pacific.. thats where you belong :-)

But.. again its your decision to swallow the anchor.

Big hugs to both of you.


Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007

On 23 Jul 2018, at 13:54, 'Rick Grimes' rickgrimes1@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hello Amel Forum Friends,

 

We want to let you know that, in the next few weeks, Rascal is going to be listed for sale by a broker.  IN THE INTERIM, we are offering Rascal for sale for a fixed price of $289,000.  Offers less than $289,000 will not be considered.  If you know anyone who may be interested, please ask them to contact me at +1-609-932-2307 and/or visit the link below for more detail.  

Rascal is a 2003 Amel Super Maramu 2000, Hull #404 and is ready to cruise.  See this link: www.svrascal.com/rascal-listing.html

 

Rick and Linda Grimes

 

 




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SVRascal

Stephen Davis
 

Seems like a great idea to me...if your steering works, I might buy her. 

Steve

On Jul 23, 2018, at 13:54, 'Rick Grimes' rickgrimes1@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello Amel Forum Friends,

 

We want to let you know that, in the next few weeks, Rascal is going to be listed for sale by a broker.  IN THE INTERIM, we are offering Rascal for sale for a fixed price of $289,000.  Offers less than $289,000 will not be considered.  If you know anyone who may be interested, please ask them to contact me at +1-609-932-2307 and/or visit the link below for more detail. 

Rascal is a 2003 Amel Super Maramu 2000, Hull #404 and is ready to cruise.  See this link: www.svrascal.com/rascal-listing.html

 

Rick and Linda Grimes

 

 


SVRascal

Rick Grimes
 

Hello Amel Forum Friends,

 

We want to let you know that, in the next few weeks, Rascal is going to be listed for sale by a broker.  IN THE INTERIM, we are offering Rascal for sale for a fixed price of $289,000.  Offers less than $289,000 will not be considered.  If you know anyone who may be interested, please ask them to contact me at +1-609-932-2307 and/or visit the link below for more detail. 

Rascal is a 2003 Amel Super Maramu 2000, Hull #404 and is ready to cruise.  See this link: www.svrascal.com/rascal-listing.html

 

Rick and Linda Grimes

 

 


Re: Freshwater Pump - cycles rapidly

Alan Leslie
 

The bladders in those accumulators are replaceable. We carried spares and changed them twice.
Last year we replaced the original pump with a Marco UP14E which is much smaller than the original contraption and supplies constant high flow. Very happy with it. We too wash decks, dodger, covers etc with the cockpit hose fresh water.
Would definitely recommend changing to a Marco pump.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437 Yasawa-i-rara, Fiji

17661 - 17680 of 58528