Date   
Re: WOB Corrosion

karkauai
 


Thanks for your replies.
Eric, I am able to turn it on the shaft with rotational  pressure using a screw driver, but I can’t get any purchase on the WOB, as it crumbles when any aftward pressure is applied. I may have to grind it out but will need to get a flexible shaft for my Dremel.  

Danny, I didn’t replace the prop zincs about a month ago when it disappeared, as I knew I was going to haul out and was going on the assumption that I really didn’t need it anyway.

Paul, as Eric said, if you varnish or paint with enamel (fingernail polish works, too) around the holes, they last twice as long.  You said you had plastic bolts holding your prop zinc on.  It should have three hex head stainless steel bolts which would help make contact with the prop.

Gary, the set screws are gone, their holes were so brittle that with  just a little pressure they crumbled.

I will check continuity between the prop shaft and zincs.  If I find no continuity, that would explain the problem.  If there is good continuity, does anyone have an explanation why the rudder zincs are wearing normally but I have this problem with the WOB?


Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM 243

On Mar 28, 2020, at 4:30 PM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:



Hi Kent,

Wow,

That looks like a delicate job. Good luck with the work.

 

Looking at the picture again, had to tried to put a screwdriver or small chisel in the place where the set screw was and try to rotate the bearing, If you can get it to rotate. Possibly you can get some purchase on the lip of the bearing and pry it out. If I see the photo correctly, a pair of channel lock pliers might allow rotation and removal.

 

If that doesn’t work and  you have a flex shaft attachment for a dremel tool that would make the work a lot easier. As a jeweler that is the way I would VERY carefully grind out the remains of the bearing.

Another possibility is to drill and tap it in a few places and try  to pull it out with the screws installed in the tapped holes. Use brass screws I case they break off.

 

 

If you cover the bolts on the prop shaft zincs with varnish or nail polish, the area around the screws last a lot longer.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via Groups.Io
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2020 3:32 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] WOB Corrosion

 

Hi All,

I’m hauled out for bottom paint and servicing the Amel-supplied WOB and bow thruster seals.  It has been 4.3 years as I have had Island 44 on the bottom, and it lasts that long.  No water ingress and no oil loss.”, so I haven’t done the service until now.  Please see the pic of the WOB.  It is crumbling apart as if it were damaged by corrosion/electrolysis.  The hull potential has been perfect at -980mv every time I’ve checked it, and the rudder zincs have lasted almost a year with normal erosion.  I have used prop zincs on it since I had the prop shaft electrolysis a few years ago.  They have disappeared after a few months, mostly because they erode at the bolt hole edges and fall off, rather than completely erode away.

It’s going to be a bitch to get out, but bigger question is why did it corrode?  Any thoughts?  

Thanks in advance,
Kent
SM 243
Kristy

<image001.jpg>

Re: WOB Corrosion

Gary Wells
 

Hi Kent,

Boy, I sure don't know why it would go all zombie like that really.
Nonetheless, a few days' soaking with PB Blaster or (preferably) AeroKroil penetrant is a start.
There's a hex jet set screw holding that bushing in place too, if you get it unscrewed about halfway and exposes you can use it for leverage to try and pry the bushing free.  

Best!

Gary W.
SM 209, Adagio
Georgia,USA  

Re: WOB Corrosion

Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
 

I think Kent may be referring to the prop zinc, not the prop shaft. I have one on my autoprop attached with three plastic bolts, and as Kent says, it always corrodes around the three bolts and can then fall off well before its useful life. I would also like to hear a solution to this.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Sent: 29 March 2020 03:23
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] WOB Corrosion

 

Hi Kent, looks ugly. When your prop shaft zinks fell off did you replacen immediately. Also, the fact they just coroded around the stainless bolts could sugest limited contact with the prop. I have used cone prop zincs in the past and they corroded all over, certainly faster around the bolts. However for some years I have used shaft zincs betwen the prop and the c drive housing(i dont have line cutters) They have corroded relatively evenly.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl 

On 29 March 2020 at 08:32 "karkauai via Groups.Io" <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi All,

I’m hauled out for bottom paint and servicing the Amel-supplied WOB and bow thruster seals.  It has been 4.3 years as I have had Island 44 on the bottom, and it lasts that long.  No water ingress and no oil loss.”, so I haven’t done the service until now.  Please see the pic of the WOB.  It is crumbling apart as if it were damaged by corrosion/electrolysis.  The hull potential has been perfect at -980mv every time I’ve checked it, and the rudder zincs have lasted almost a year with normal erosion.  I have used prop zincs on it since I had the prop shaft electrolysis a few years ago.  They have disappeared after a few months, mostly because they erode at the bolt hole edges and fall off, rather than completely erode away.

It’s going to be a bitch to get out, but bigger question is why did it corrode?  Any thoughts?  

Thanks in advance,
Kent
SM 243
Kristy


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

Re: WOB Corrosion

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Kent, looks ugly. When your prop shaft zinks fell off did you replacen immediately. Also, the fact they just coroded around the stainless bolts could sugest limited contact with the prop. I have used cone prop zincs in the past and they corroded all over, certainly faster around the bolts. However for some years I have used shaft zincs betwen the prop and the c drive housing(i dont have line cutters) They have corroded relatively evenly.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl 

On 29 March 2020 at 08:32 "karkauai via Groups.Io" <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi All,

I’m hauled out for bottom paint and servicing the Amel-supplied WOB and bow thruster seals.  It has been 4.3 years as I have had Island 44 on the bottom, and it lasts that long.  No water ingress and no oil loss.”, so I haven’t done the service until now.  Please see the pic of the WOB.  It is crumbling apart as if it were damaged by corrosion/electrolysis.  The hull potential has been perfect at -980mv every time I’ve checked it, and the rudder zincs have lasted almost a year with normal erosion.  I have used prop zincs on it since I had the prop shaft electrolysis a few years ago.  They have disappeared after a few months, mostly because they erode at the bolt hole edges and fall off, rather than completely erode away.

It’s going to be a bitch to get out, but bigger question is why did it corrode?  Any thoughts?  

Thanks in advance,
Kent
SM 243
Kristy

Re: WOB Corrosion

eric freedman
 

Hi Kent,

Wow,

That looks like a delicate job. Good luck with the work.

 

Looking at the picture again, had to tried to put a screwdriver or small chisel in the place where the set screw was and try to rotate the bearing, If you can get it to rotate. Possibly you can get some purchase on the lip of the bearing and pry it out. If I see the photo correctly, a pair of channel lock pliers might allow rotation and removal.

 

If that doesn’t work and  you have a flex shaft attachment for a dremel tool that would make the work a lot easier. As a jeweler that is the way I would VERY carefully grind out the remains of the bearing.

Another possibility is to drill and tap it in a few places and try  to pull it out with the screws installed in the tapped holes. Use brass screws I case they break off.

 

 

If you cover the bolts on the prop shaft zincs with varnish or nail polish, the area around the screws last a lot longer.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via Groups.Io
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2020 3:32 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] WOB Corrosion

 

Hi All,

I’m hauled out for bottom paint and servicing the Amel-supplied WOB and bow thruster seals.  It has been 4.3 years as I have had Island 44 on the bottom, and it lasts that long.  No water ingress and no oil loss.”, so I haven’t done the service until now.  Please see the pic of the WOB.  It is crumbling apart as if it were damaged by corrosion/electrolysis.  The hull potential has been perfect at -980mv every time I’ve checked it, and the rudder zincs have lasted almost a year with normal erosion.  I have used prop zincs on it since I had the prop shaft electrolysis a few years ago.  They have disappeared after a few months, mostly because they erode at the bolt hole edges and fall off, rather than completely erode away.

It’s going to be a bitch to get out, but bigger question is why did it corrode?  Any thoughts?  

Thanks in advance,
Kent
SM 243
Kristy

WOB Corrosion

karkauai
 

Hi All,

I’m hauled out for bottom paint and servicing the Amel-supplied WOB and bow thruster seals.  It has been 4.3 years as I have had Island 44 on the bottom, and it lasts that long.  No water ingress and no oil loss.”, so I haven’t done the service until now.  Please see the pic of the WOB.  It is crumbling apart as if it were damaged by corrosion/electrolysis.  The hull potential has been perfect at -980mv every time I’ve checked it, and the rudder zincs have lasted almost a year with normal erosion.  I have used prop zincs on it since I had the prop shaft electrolysis a few years ago.  They have disappeared after a few months, mostly because they erode at the bolt hole edges and fall off, rather than completely erode away.

It’s going to be a bitch to get out, but bigger question is why did it corrode?  Any thoughts?  

Thanks in advance,
Kent
SM 243
Kristy

Re: Where to put the life raft

eric freedman
 

As I mentioned Winslow has at least 5 different hard cases that you can select . What attracted me to that raft was the boarding platform, . If you ever tried to get into a dinghy from the water you will know what I am talking about. In addition how many stories have you heard of a raft flipping and the occupants lost all their supplies. The Winslow has closable pockets.

 

With respect to a ditch bag. You should have one that floats. Mine will float with 40 pounds  of gear.

It has a waterproof zipper. I attached a strong lanyard and a snap shackle to it. It has my water maker, Epirb,

GPs, VHF, Emergency rations and many aerial flares. My second ditch bag has many more things including a board to cut fish on.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2020 7:29 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Where to put the life raft

 

Right you are, Eric, the WInslow would be a super choice and I was close to buying that. It's an exceptionally designed life raft.  As I recall the soft pack would fit nicely in my SN port cockpit lazarette locker, along with a proper ditch kit.
I've got a DBC hard pack that's a monster. 
Cheers, Craig

Re: Where to put the life raft

Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
 

Right you are, Eric, the WInslow would be a super choice and I was close to buying that. It's an exceptionally designed life raft.  As I recall the soft pack would fit nicely in my SN port cockpit lazarette locker, along with a proper ditch kit.
I've got a DBC hard pack that's a monster. 
Cheers, Craig

Re: Where to put the life raft

eric freedman
 

If you ever get around to getting a new raft, Winslow has at least 5 different containers to pack a raft. It is also serviced every 3 years.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2020 9:15 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Where to put the life raft

 

[Edited Message Follows]

Hi Eric,
Yes, I did consider putting the life raft in the cockpit port locker, but found that space more valuable for frequently used things. Dinghy stuff, fishing tackle box, maintenance stuff and like that. Plus, we're not currently in the mode of extended off-shore passage making, like you. 
Cheers, Craig
Oops, forgot the #1 reason; the SN cockpit locker is smaller than the SM and the raft doesn't fit!

Re: Gas springs on the aft Lasarett

Paul Osterberg
 

I see the need for gas struts due to the risk of the hatch falling down and you have your toes between, One friend of mine lost her big toe in such accident, it could be put in place again, a very painful experience one could live without. With gas struts the consequence would be much less.
Paul on SY KerpaSM#259

Re: Gas springs on the aft Lasarett

Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
 

Hi Alan,
Yes, I do just open the lazarette and lean it back. But, with the life raft on top it is pretty heavy to lift it the first 45 degrees or so, so gas struts would be nice. The life raft is, I think, about 100 pounds. The Admiral struggles a bit with it. (I, of course, would never admit to that!)
Cheers

Re: Where to put the life raft

Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
 
Edited

Hi Eric,
Yes, I did consider putting the life raft in the cockpit port locker, but found that space more valuable for frequently used things. Dinghy stuff, fishing tackle box, maintenance stuff and like that. Plus, we're not currently in the mode of extended off-shore passage making, like you. 
Cheers, Craig
Oops, forgot the #1 reason; the SN cockpit locker is smaller than the SM and the raft doesn't fit!

Re: Gas springs on the aft Lasarett

Alan Leslie
 

Hi Craig,
Don't you just open the lazarette hatch and lean it back against the sloping aft cabin hatch ?
That gives complete and unparalleled access to the lazarette for any shape or size of "stuff"
IMO gas struts would just add an unnecessary complication and get in the way.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437

Where to put the life raft

eric freedman
 

Hi Craig,

Had you thought of putting your life raft in the cockpit port locker?

It is very easy to get out from there. In addition, in horrific conditions, you really don’t want to be at the stern.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL via Groups.Io
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2020 6:10 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Gas springs on the aft Lasarett

 

Hi Paul and Lady Annita,

I have also been toying with adding gas struts to my aft locker because that is where I have my life raft and it is pretty heavy to lift up (more so every year :-)  Some thoughts I have considered are that tail gates on automobiles do open more than 90 degrees, so that should not be a problem. However, you really do not need the hatch to automatically open and close to its full swing. A manual operation where it simply gives an assist on opening would be fine (like the SM cockpit/engine room hatch).  if it opened more than 90 degrees, no problem, you could just start the closing by hand and the piston would provide the dampening to give a soft close.
I haven't engineered a specific solution yet, but it seems totally feasible. Any further thoughts/ideas or specific gas strut recommendations would be welcome.

Cheers, Craig

Re: Gas springs on the aft Lasarett

Gary Wells
 

That seems interesting to me.  My first concern is that when open, the struts would provide a small but possibly problematic interference for setting/sliding things onto the decks (I mostly just push things forward when I'm down in there hauling stuff out). I was thinking having that strut/bar in the way might be a small inconvenience.  
On the other hand, it might be a small but useful grab bar as long as you didn't bend it :)

Gary W.
SM 209 Adagio
Brunswick, GA

Re: Gas springs on the aft Lasarett

Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
 

Hi Paul and Lady Annita,

I have also been toying with adding gas struts to my aft locker because that is where I have my life raft and it is pretty heavy to lift up (more so every year :-)  Some thoughts I have considered are that tail gates on automobiles do open more than 90 degrees, so that should not be a problem. However, you really do not need the hatch to automatically open and close to its full swing. A manual operation where it simply gives an assist on opening would be fine (like the SM cockpit/engine room hatch).  if it opened more than 90 degrees, no problem, you could just start the closing by hand and the piston would provide the dampening to give a soft close.
I haven't engineered a specific solution yet, but it seems totally feasible. Any further thoughts/ideas or specific gas strut recommendations would be welcome.

Cheers, Craig

Re: Gas springs on the aft Lasarett

Annsofie & Jonas Svanberg
 

Hi Paul
I don’t think it will work with a gas strut/spring on that hatch, because you open the hatch more than 90 degrees and when the hatch is resting towards the aftcabin roof it is beyond the critical angel where it can close it self.

/Annsofie, 
S/Y Lady Annila SM232, 1998


Skickat från min iPhone

25 mars 2020 kl. 17:48 skrev Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...>:

I would like to have gas springs on the aft lasarett on my SM. Is there anyone who have installed that? in that case what size and "strength" did you use? any picture would be appreciated.
I'm afraid the hatch might be to short to have any real use for gas springs, but I might be wrong (not unusual) 
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259 Lagos, Portugal
  

Re: Water Detection - Cleaning the fuel tank

Mark & Debbie Mueller
 

I did use Kolor Kut as a check but found no indication of water.  I routinely use a biocide plus Sea Foam when fueling.
--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54

Gas springs on the aft Lasarett

Paul Osterberg
 

I would like to have gas springs on the aft lasarett on my SM. Is there anyone who have installed that? in that case what size and "strength" did you use? any picture would be appreciated.
I'm afraid the hatch might be to short to have any real use for gas springs, but I might be wrong (not unusual) 
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259 Lagos, Portugal
  

Re: Water Detection - Cleaning the fuel tank

Laurens Vos
 

Hi Mark 

Thanks for this suggestion.
Looks to me it could work well 
Did you find water this way ?

Regards
Laurens