Date   

Guidance on replacing Engine tray mounts

James
 

Hi Amel owners!


We have just purchased SM2k #260, very glad to have joined the family!


We are trying to find out information on the motor tray mounts on SM2k (Volvo). Are these Amel items or regular vets/volvo ones? Has anyone replaced them? Our survey has shown excessive vibration pointing at worn mounts causing misalignment..


Enclosed some pics of the mounts in question. 


Thanks in advance!


James & Louise


S/V TITANIUM - Valencia, Spain

SM2k



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Original Autopilot Integration With New Chartplotter

greatketch@...
 

Mark,

The Puddle Jump is held every year.  The page referenced is a historical listing of all the articles published in the rally's sponsor magazine, Latitude 38, from 2005 through 2016.

If you scan down the list, you will find for each year there is a "Recap" article published after the rally.  Each of the "Recaps" include a table of the survey responses from the rally participants that includes passage speed information and breakdown experiences.

For anyone not familiar, Latitude 38 is the local sailing rag for the San Francisco Bay area.  One of the better local sailing magazines around.  Of course mostly dedicated to the local news, but lots of information and news of general sailing interest as well.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA



---In amelyachtowners@..., <mcerdos@...> wrote :

Which article are you referring to? There are a lot of them on this page.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Bonaire

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 12:51 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Original Autopilot Integration With New Chartplotter

 

 

An interesting source of anecdotal information on failures underway is the annual recap article from the Pacific Puddle Jump Rally published in Latitude 38.  

 

http://www.pacificpuddlejump.com/articles.html

 

It's not terribly helpful to give real rates of failure since usually only about 25% of the boats actually fill out the end of rally survey, and the information is very sketchy about why things broke, but it give you an idea none the less. 

 

It's also really interesting to see real passage time data and engine hour usage instead of the kind of bragging one normally gets around the yacht club bar.  

 

Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Annapolis, MD, USA

 

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator

Paul Osterberg
 

Alexandre
Thank you, yes assume legal protection, using the drinking water becoming more and more frequent as it has its advantages
Paul.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Paul,

If I may point out regarding the “water cooled” units.
“Chapter 3” of the Installation and Instruction Manual
http://www.coastalclimatecontrol.com/images/PDF/Refer/Frigoboat_Manual_Rev_37.pdf
it says:
NOTE: The W35F and W50F compressors are designed to work with sea water only. They are not designed to use water from other sources, i.e. water tanks, skin tanks, or coolant pumped through secondary heat exchangers. Serious health risks and/or performance issues can occur if any form of liquid coolant delivery is used other than sea water being pumped directly into the system and then expelled back overboard.
I assume this is some lawyer statement to prevent any type of potential lawsuit should the system leak into the fresh water tank.
Personally, I would not have any issue using the fresh water tank, but wanted to point out the information.

Sincerely, Alexandre.



--------------------------------------------

On Mon, 8/6/18, osterberg.paul.l@gmail.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, August 6, 2018, 8:00 AM


 









Mark! Did you consider to have a water cooled
compressor? We have changed the cooler and compressor in the
fridge box. To a water cooled, I also build a freezer where
the dishwasher was, also water cooled. Both compressors are
cooled by circulating fresh water from the drinking water
tank. Limited corrosion no growth of barnacles. No problem
to use when on the hard, and very energy efficient. No noice
from any fan. Took the water from the manual pump outlet to
the compressors.

I have thought of doing something about the fridge cabinet
as it get cool, but work most of the time and make noice
even after I changed the fan. One thought was a drawer
fridge, terribly expensive and does not match, or change
compressor and evaporator. I think I know the answer now.

Paul on SY Kerpa SM 259


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator

Mark Erdos
 

Paul,

 

I did not opt for the water cooled units. I am happy with the basic air cooled unit. If I had to do it over, I might opt for the larger box evaporator but this would mean redoing the drain tray and plumbing in the unit. I am happy with the results.

 

Also, I should note the parts come pre-charged so the installation is just connecting the quick-connect fittings. No charging or Freon necessary.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 9:01 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator

 

 

Mark! Did you consider to have a water cooled compressor? We have changed the cooler and compressor in the fridge box. To a water cooled, I also build a freezer where the dishwasher was, also water cooled. Both compressors are cooled by circulating fresh water from the drinking water tank. Limited corrosion no growth of barnacles. No problem to use when on the hard, and very energy efficient. No noice from any fan. Took the water from the manual pump outlet to the compressors.
I have thought of doing something about the fridge cabinet as it get cool, but work most of the time and make noice even after I changed the fan. One thought was a drawer fridge, terribly expensive and does not match, or change compressor and evaporator. I think I know the answer now.
Paul on SY Kerpa SM 259


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator

Paul Osterberg
 

Mark! Did you consider to have a water cooled compressor? We have changed the cooler and compressor in the fridge box. To a water cooled, I also build a freezer where the dishwasher was, also water cooled. Both compressors are cooled by circulating fresh water from the drinking water tank. Limited corrosion no growth of barnacles. No problem to use when on the hard, and very energy efficient. No noice from any fan. Took the water from the manual pump outlet to the compressors.
I have thought of doing something about the fridge cabinet as it get cool, but work most of the time and make noice even after I changed the fan. One thought was a drawer fridge, terribly expensive and does not match, or change compressor and evaporator. I think I know the answer now.
Paul on SY Kerpa SM 259


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator

James Cromie
 

This is great. Thanks for sharing Mark. 
Perhaps you’d be willing to share your private email with me- I wanted to ask some other questions.  
My email address is Jamescromie “at” yahoo dot com, and perhaps you could send me your email

Thanks. 
James


On Aug 6, 2018, at 6:45 AM, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

James,

 

I don’t use Costal Climate Control anymore after having a bad experience with them. I purchased the parts at Go2Marine (cheaper bc of free shipping). The part are the same except for the condensing unit. The old unit is no longer made. The new unit is a little smaller and much more efficient. If you have the low/high Amel set up you can bypass that as the compressor is variable speed and makes a lot less noise. Here is the list of parts I used:

 

SKU            Description  Qty.

422326       Frigoboat, 160H, Horizontal Box Evaporator, with Door

422330       Frigoboat, Mechanical Thermostat for Refrigerator

422313       Frigoboat, Capri 35F, Air Cooled Condensing Unit, with Speed Board, 12/24 volt

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Bonaire

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, August 5, 2018 11:18 PM
To: isaac_02906@... [amelyachtowners]
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator

 

 

Mark - 

Where did you source your replacement components for the refrigerator (thermostat, condenser, and compressor).  Did you use Coastal Climate Control?  What components did you use specifically (were you able to replace with exactly the same parts?).

 

Thanks,

James 

SV Soteria SM 437

On Aug 5, 2018, at 6:41 PM, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Good job, Mark. 


Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

 

On Sun, Aug 5, 2018, 15:58 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Tom,

 

We rebuilt our entire unit when last in the USA. We replace the thermostat, condenser and compressor. Like you we wanted to maintain the aesthetics of the wood. We looked at replacement units but rebuilding saved us about $1,000 and wasn’t hard to do. At the time we had the unit out, we also wrapped it with ½” foam board. We used duct tape to secure it to the unit. Since doing all of this, our unit now cools nicely and we can maintain about 38F even in the warmer climates. I’m not sure how much the foam helped but I figured it couldn’t hurt to increase the r-value where we could. The top of the unit is still without foam as we couldn’t get the unit back under the counter top with foam on it. Another thing that helps is to cover the hole in the bottom of the unit. We used tape but I guess a bung would work just as well. Since cold air sinks it seemed to me that it made sense to cover this. Lastly, we put a layer of foam board between the compressor unit under the fridge and the box. The compressor puts out quite a bit of heat and surely had to impact the temp of the box. We did this all at once so I can’t really tell you what part made the most difference or worked best. But, hopefully it’ll give you a few ideas. If I had to do this over again, I would opt for a larger evaporator. Hope this helps...

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Bonaire

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of thomas.kleman
Sent: Sunday, August 5, 2018 4:36 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator

 

  

Hello- I own SM2K #422. The galley refrigerator seems incapable of getting to 47 degrees F, even when it has been defrosted. OK I'm in Bonaire where it's hot right now but........I've done the best I can on the door seal and have insulated the evaporator connection behind the unit pretty well.

 

In the settee units, I have lined the interior of both of them with Kevothermal vacuum insulated panels (R value of this stuff is 60 for 1 inch....it comes thinner as well). This isn't practical for the galley refrigerator because the outside fits too tightly in its place and the inside has too many irregularities to build a vacuum insulated panel mosaic.

 

I don't want to replace it.........it works and having a new unit wouldn't be great aesthetically (and getting the wood panel off the old unit to remedy that looks difficult).

 

I've considered increasing the size of the evaporator........even though re-siting the evaporator drip tray and drain is likewise kind of a pain.........

 

So I'm in the "scratching my head" place right now considering solutions. I was wondering if anyone had done anything creative..

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Question about the refrigiration system on an A54

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi,
As I understand it the 12vcirculating pumps for the fridge systems are standard 12v pumps but actually get 24v as measured. They work fine at the higher voltage and pump enough sea water to cool my three fridges on Amelia. I am sure you could replace them with a 24v pump but then you would draw double the current and maybe pump more water.  As a matter of interest my three fridges worked fine in the West Indies but I noticed the flow of water out of the port through hull to be a bit feeble. So I investigated and there was a bit of crud in the pipe work so I flushed it out and now the flow is much faster though the fridges seam to be no less or indeed more happy. My conclusion is that the flow rate is not overly critical even in hot Caribbean and cool Azores.

Nick 

Amelia (Amel 54 #019) Canary Islands


On 5 Aug 2018, at 12:26, arno.luijten@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

So, for those interested:
I looked it up on the Interweb and is seems Frigoboat (actual company name is  Veco S.p.A.) has this system where they use a special developed circulation pump designedd to run 24/7. Apparently they did not want to develop a 24 volt version so they only have a 12 volt version. To accommodate a 24 volt ship's system they have some devices (like the pump switch) to lower the voltage from 24 to 12 volt. The compressor and such still runs on 24 volt as this is the standard Danfoss system that can accept both 12 and 24 volt.
So the switch (http://www.penguinfrigo.co.uk/shop/product/581/) itself converts the 24 volt into 12 volt to supply the pump.

The tricky part is that this pump has a fairly low consumption (1Amp. @ 12 Volt) and this pump should not be replaced by just any other pump, given it's duty cycle and noise level.
I'm actually wondering if this is not just a 24 volt pump set to rum at 12 volt to make it last longer and more quiet.
Amel 54's come equipped with a spare pump right next to the active one. There is a reason for this.

Arno


Re: Question about the refrigiration system on an A54

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Thomas,

Interesting information. I will check what the controller on our 54 supplies to the pump. It seems odd to supply a higher voltage to the pump that for which it has been designed. This again makes me believe the pump is actually a 24 volt model or else it would not last very long on 18 volts.
Fact is that the spare pump (ours still works) is very quiet and does not get hot. So whatever Italian magic is going on in this system it's not all bad.

I'm not so sure about the fresh water circulation. That will force you to keep a generous level of water in the tank or else the temperature will rise significantly. Polyester makes not a good heat-exchanger after all. Given the fact our watermaker is shot (and will take some time to be repaired), I see practical problems here.
My preference would be to have centrifugal pumps instead of the ones currently installed. Centrifugal pumps are much better in handling raw water (no valves).

So when are you to return to Curacao? Our 54 is actually less then 50 yards away from yours, on the same pontoon. Our hull number is 121 so I guess our boats were build more or less simultaneously.

We will go on the dry next week if all goes as planned.

Regards,

Arno


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Original Autopilot Integration With New Chartplotter

Craig Briggs
 

Yes, interesting data. 27 boats (reporting) and one autopilot failure (another with leaky hydraulics) in 2016 crossing.


---In amelyachtowners@..., <greatketch@...> wrote :

An interesting source of anecdotal information on failures underway is the annual recap article from the Pacific Puddle Jump Rally published in Latitude 38.  

http://www.pacificpuddlejump.com/articles.html

It's not terribly helpful to give real rates of failure since usually only about 25% of the boats actually fill out the end of rally survey, and the information is very sketchy about why things broke, but it give you an idea none the less. 

It's also really interesting to see real passage time data and engine hour usage instead of the kind of bragging one normally gets around the yacht club bar.  

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA





Re: Amel 54 main mast seal

Bob Hodgins <bobh@...>
 

Barry,
I had my main mast pad changed in January this year in Martinique. I watched and here is what they did.

The jack system they had was specially made for the job. It was a single hand pump for the hydraulic, it was connected to two cylinders, one for each side of the mast. They placed large hard wood blocks on deck to distribute the load, on each side of the mast. The jack cylinders went on top of these blocks, and there was a custom made wood block that fit under the main winch on each side of the mast. When they pumped the jack, each side lifted exactly the same. They lifted it only about 35 or 40 cm, cleaned out the old pad and slid in the new one.

You might not want to be putting 5200 under the mast because it will be difficult to clean out with that limited space to work under the foot. On the outside of the mast might be OK.

My original pad was completely dissolved from age. I think the mast settled down that amount, and caused the rig to be loose. After installing the new pad, they tuned the rig using a tension gauge. I think they did a very good, professional job.

Bob Hodgins
Amel 54 #31
Currently in Raiatea, French Polynesia
-


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator

Mark Erdos
 

James,

 

I don’t use Costal Climate Control anymore after having a bad experience with them. I purchased the parts at Go2Marine (cheaper bc of free shipping). The part are the same except for the condensing unit. The old unit is no longer made. The new unit is a little smaller and much more efficient. If you have the low/high Amel set up you can bypass that as the compressor is variable speed and makes a lot less noise. Here is the list of parts I used:

 

SKU            Description  Qty.

422326       Frigoboat, 160H, Horizontal Box Evaporator, with Door

422330       Frigoboat, Mechanical Thermostat for Refrigerator

422313       Frigoboat, Capri 35F, Air Cooled Condensing Unit, with Speed Board, 12/24 volt

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Bonaire

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, August 5, 2018 11:18 PM
To: isaac_02906@... [amelyachtowners]
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator

 

 

Mark - 

Where did you source your replacement components for the refrigerator (thermostat, condenser, and compressor).  Did you use Coastal Climate Control?  What components did you use specifically (were you able to replace with exactly the same parts?).

 

Thanks,

James 

SV Soteria SM 437

On Aug 5, 2018, at 6:41 PM, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Good job, Mark. 


Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

 

On Sun, Aug 5, 2018, 15:58 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Tom,

 

We rebuilt our entire unit when last in the USA. We replace the thermostat, condenser and compressor. Like you we wanted to maintain the aesthetics of the wood. We looked at replacement units but rebuilding saved us about $1,000 and wasn’t hard to do. At the time we had the unit out, we also wrapped it with ½” foam board. We used duct tape to secure it to the unit. Since doing all of this, our unit now cools nicely and we can maintain about 38F even in the warmer climates. I’m not sure how much the foam helped but I figured it couldn’t hurt to increase the r-value where we could. The top of the unit is still without foam as we couldn’t get the unit back under the counter top with foam on it. Another thing that helps is to cover the hole in the bottom of the unit. We used tape but I guess a bung would work just as well. Since cold air sinks it seemed to me that it made sense to cover this. Lastly, we put a layer of foam board between the compressor unit under the fridge and the box. The compressor puts out quite a bit of heat and surely had to impact the temp of the box. We did this all at once so I can’t really tell you what part made the most difference or worked best. But, hopefully it’ll give you a few ideas. If I had to do this over again, I would opt for a larger evaporator. Hope this helps...

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Bonaire

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of thomas.kleman
Sent: Sunday, August 5, 2018 4:36 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator

 

  

Hello- I own SM2K #422. The galley refrigerator seems incapable of getting to 47 degrees F, even when it has been defrosted. OK I'm in Bonaire where it's hot right now but........I've done the best I can on the door seal and have insulated the evaporator connection behind the unit pretty well.

 

In the settee units, I have lined the interior of both of them with Kevothermal vacuum insulated panels (R value of this stuff is 60 for 1 inch....it comes thinner as well). This isn't practical for the galley refrigerator because the outside fits too tightly in its place and the inside has too many irregularities to build a vacuum insulated panel mosaic.

 

I don't want to replace it.........it works and having a new unit wouldn't be great aesthetically (and getting the wood panel off the old unit to remedy that looks difficult).

 

I've considered increasing the size of the evaporator........even though re-siting the evaporator drip tray and drain is likewise kind of a pain.........

 

So I'm in the "scratching my head" place right now considering solutions. I was wondering if anyone had done anything creative.

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Original Autopilot Integration With New Chartplotter

Mark Erdos
 

Which article are you referring to? There are a lot of them on this page.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Bonaire

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 12:51 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Original Autopilot Integration With New Chartplotter

 

 

An interesting source of anecdotal information on failures underway is the annual recap article from the Pacific Puddle Jump Rally published in Latitude 38.  

 

http://www.pacificpuddlejump.com/articles.html

 

It's not terribly helpful to give real rates of failure since usually only about 25% of the boats actually fill out the end of rally survey, and the information is very sketchy about why things broke, but it give you an idea none the less. 

 

It's also really interesting to see real passage time data and engine hour usage instead of the kind of bragging one normally gets around the yacht club bar.  

 

Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Annapolis, MD, USA

 

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Question about the refrigiration system on an A54

Sv Garulfo
 

Arno,

Our 2 cents:

Our fridge seawater circulation pump failed last year in Las Palmas the night before we were due to set off for the Caribbean, with fridges and freezers packed full...

Investigation showed the voltage out of the control unit was ~18V for a 12V pump and a 24V system. That puzzled me for a bit but further investigation showed the actual pump was mechanically dead; it would spin but no flow. 
I switched over to the spare pump just to find that was dead too (electrically dead). Cheeky previous owner and a bad mark for me for not checking it. 

So we rushed to buy a pair of jabsco pump that were exactly the same specs, size and everything. 
No problem since. 


On a side note, I’ve heard of 54 owners who changed the fridge water circulation circuit to use the fresh water tank instead of sea water. Probably thermodynamically as efficient, for the freshwater tank is just as cool as the sea, easier on the pump and other parts of the system (no barnacles, corrosive salt, etc), ability to run fridges when on the hard, no need to shutdown fridges when working on the sea water circuit (impellers, strainer, etc). And easy enough to implement.  

I like the idea, but i follow the rule of not changing anything on the boat for at least a year of ownership. 


Fair winds and cold beers,

Thomas
away from
GARULFO 
A54-122
Curacao 



On Sun, 5 Aug 2018 at 13:27, arno.luijten@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

So, for those interested:
I looked it up on the Interweb and is seems Frigoboat (actual company name is  Veco S.p.A.) has this system where they use a special developed circulation pump designed to run 24/7. Apparently they did not want to develop a 24 volt version so they only have a 12 volt version. To accommodate a 24 volt ship's system they have some devices (like the pump switch) to lower the voltage from 24 to 12 volt. The compressor and such still runs on 24 volt as this is the standard Danfoss system that can accept both 12 and 24 volt.
So the switch (http://www.penguinfrigo.co.uk/shop/product/581/) itself converts the 24 volt into 12 volt to supply the pump.

The tricky part is that this pump has a fairly low consumption (1Amp. @ 12 Volt) and this pump should not be replaced by just any other pump, given it's duty cycle and noise level.
I'm actually wondering if this is not just a 24 volt pump set to rum at 12 volt to make it last longer and more quiet.
Amel 54's come equipped with a spare pump right next to the active one. There is a reason for this.

Arno


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Original Autopilot Integration With New Chartplotter

greatketch@...
 

An interesting source of anecdotal information on failures underway is the annual recap article from the Pacific Puddle Jump Rally published in Latitude 38.  

http://www.pacificpuddlejump.com/articles.html

It's not terribly helpful to give real rates of failure since usually only about 25% of the boats actually fill out the end of rally survey, and the information is very sketchy about why things broke, but it give you an idea none the less. 

It's also really interesting to see real passage time data and engine hour usage instead of the kind of bragging one normally gets around the yacht club bar.  

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator

James Cromie
 

Mark - 
Where did you source your replacement components for the refrigerator (thermostat, condenser, and compressor).  Did you use Coastal Climate Control?  What components did you use specifically (were you able to replace with exactly the same parts?).

Thanks,
James 
SV Soteria SM 437

On Aug 5, 2018, at 6:41 PM, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Good job, Mark. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Sun, Aug 5, 2018, 15:58 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Tom,

 

We rebuilt our entire unit when last in the USA. We replace the thermostat, condenser and compressor. Like you we wanted to maintain the aesthetics of the wood. We looked at replacement units but rebuilding saved us about $1,000 and wasn’t hard to do. At the time we had the unit out, we also wrapped it with ½” foam board. We used duct tape to secure it to the unit. Since doing all of this, our unit now cools nicely and we can maintain about 38F even in the warmer climates. I’m not sure how much the foam helped but I figured it couldn’t hurt to increase the r-value where we could. The top of the unit is still without foam as we couldn’t get the unit back under the counter top with foam on it. Another thing that helps is to cover the hole in the bottom of the unit. We used tape but I guess a bung would work just as well. Since cold air sinks it seemed to me that it made sense to cover this. Lastly, we put a layer of foam board between the compressor unit under the fridge and the box. The compressor puts out quite a bit of heat and surely had to impact the temp of the box. We did this all at once so I can’t really tell you what part made the most difference or worked best. But, hopefully it’ll give you a few ideas. If I had to do this over again, I would opt for a larger evaporator. Hope this helps...

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Bonaire

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of thomas.kleman
Sent: Sunday, August 5, 2018 4:36 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator

 

  

Hello- I own SM2K #422. The galley refrigerator seems incapable of getting to 47 degrees F, even when it has been defrosted. OK I'm in Bonaire where it's hot right now but........I've done the best I can on the door seal and have insulated the evaporator connection behind the unit pretty well.

 

In the settee units, I have lined the interior of both of them with Kevothermal vacuum insulated panels (R value of this stuff is 60 for 1 inch....it comes thinner as well). This isn't practical for the galley refrigerator because the outside fits too tightly in its place and the inside has too many irregularities to build a vacuum insulated panel mosaic.

 

I don't want to replace it.........it works and having a new unit wouldn't be great aesthetically (and getting the wood panel off the old unit to remedy that looks difficult).

 

I've considered increasing the size of the evaporator........even though re-siting the evaporator drip tray and drain is likewise kind of a pain.........

 

So I'm in the "scratching my head" place right now considering solutions. I was wondering if anyone had done anything creative.





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Original Autopilot Integration With New Chartplotter

 

I asked multiple circumnavigator, founder of the ARC and Odyssey, and  a very good friend, Jimmy Cornell, about autopilot failures. He said, that in his experience, about 10% of all autopilots will experience a critical component failure while crossing an ocean. In my comparatively limited experience, I saw about the same. I also saw far less than10% of boats crossing oceans have spares of all autopilot components. A failed rudder reference device will ruin a 3000 mile ocean crossing.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Sun, Aug 5, 2018, 12:19 greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Jams,

When it comes to spares and backups we are all informed by our experiences, prejudices and fears. It's hard to approach with total logic because we really don't have much reliable data about failure rates and causes.

One of the downsides to the NMEA2000 network is that it is all "of one piece." Although it is designed to be robust and fault tolerant, I have seen one corroded connector bring down a big piece of a boat's network.  It's probably a good idea to have a couple spare connectors, and a spare terminating resistor for a NMEA2000 network just in cast you need to bypass part of the circuit.

I do not have any bad experiences with rudder angle sensors, but all of the ones I have used were "dumb" ones hard wired to the course computer. They are simple circuits, and as long as they are kept dry, with good connections, they SHOULD work. On the other hand, without a working sensor, the AP is not usable...

Adding the complexity to have the rudder angle sensor connect through the network makes things...more complicated.  Our two independent AP computers have separate rudder angle sensors so I haven't really felt the need to think hard about backups for that part.  I do carry a complete, drop-in spare, linear drive.  So we have three drives, two computers, two rudder sensors, and two fluxgate compasses. Short of getting struck by lightening, we should be in good shape.

The only part of the system that we have deliberately kept independent of the NMEA2000 network is the backup AP.  If the network totally died, we would still have the ability to steer to a compass course with the older course computer.

We travel with enough hand held devices that include GPS receivers, and paper charts that even serious network problems would be an very annoying inconvenience, not a disaster.

I know some people love their forward scanning sonars, and for good reasons.  If I spent a lot of time cruising in rocky areas like New England I'd likely be more interested. For us, all of our "ground contact events" have been in gradual shoaling areas where we were well aware of the depth. When the forward scanning units get to the point they can help me find a 2.05 meter channel surrounded by 1.95 meter shoals I'll be all in!  

Theoretically, the forward scanning units would allow us to move through coral head infested waters without needing to be as attentive to time of day and visibility, but I am not ready to turn over that task to electronics. If we are doing the eyeball navigation thing anyway, the added value of the electronic version doesn't push it high enough on my wish list.  Don't get me wrong, these things are on my wish list, they just haven't quite gotten to the top of the priority list in the competition for available resources!

When my sailing students asked me some version of the question, "Do I need "X" on my boat to go cruising?" I asked them to do a thought experiment.  Imagine you are at anchor in the lagoon of an isolated tropical atoll.  Device "X" has just irreparably failed.  Can you get home?  If the answer is "Yes" then device "X" is a luxury.  One you might very much want to have, but in the harshest of analyses--a luxury.  If the answer is "No" and you would be stuck in this remote location until device "X" is working again, then you need two of them! 

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA

---In amelyachtowners@..., <lokiyawl2@...> wrote :

Bill,

   I like your concept of having some stand alone instruments and would like to learn of a good way to have some of the benefits of the network without being reliant too on it .  I will be buying most everything new for my boat so have lots of options so long as I don’t blow the budget. (grin)   If you have any thoughts or suggestions on achieving a good balance between the standalone and networked items please share.    I am using a Zeus 3-9 as my plotter and was thinking of adding the B&G 4G radar.  My instrumentation is the original B&G Analog style which mostly still work.  The wind was replaced by an Advansea unit that still works fine but I think is being phased out.  I really like the idea of the forward looking sonar but wonder if the range and accuracy might improve if I wait a while on that one.  I have two backup chart plotters that are standalone plus a handheld.  I only have the original rotary autopilot which works fine so far. Would you recommend carrying a spare rudder sensor?  Beginning to get the boat ready for the trip from the Med. back to Florida.

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueño
Maramu #220,  about to begin another season in the Med!



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator

 

Good job, Mark. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Sun, Aug 5, 2018, 15:58 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Tom,

 

We rebuilt our entire unit when last in the USA. We replace the thermostat, condenser and compressor. Like you we wanted to maintain the aesthetics of the wood. We looked at replacement units but rebuilding saved us about $1,000 and wasn’t hard to do. At the time we had the unit out, we also wrapped it with ½” foam board. We used duct tape to secure it to the unit. Since doing all of this, our unit now cools nicely and we can maintain about 38F even in the warmer climates. I’m not sure how much the foam helped but I figured it couldn’t hurt to increase the r-value where we could. The top of the unit is still without foam as we couldn’t get the unit back under the counter top with foam on it. Another thing that helps is to cover the hole in the bottom of the unit. We used tape but I guess a bung would work just as well. Since cold air sinks it seemed to me that it made sense to cover this. Lastly, we put a layer of foam board between the compressor unit under the fridge and the box. The compressor puts out quite a bit of heat and surely had to impact the temp of the box. We did this all at once so I can’t really tell you what part made the most difference or worked best. But, hopefully it’ll give you a few ideas. If I had to do this over again, I would opt for a larger evaporator. Hope this helps..

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Bonaire

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of thomas.kleman
Sent: Sunday, August 5, 2018 4:36 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator

 

 

Hello- I own SM2K #422. The galley refrigerator seems incapable of getting to 47 degrees F, even when it has been defrosted. OK I'm in Bonaire where it's hot right now but........I've done the best I can on the door seal and have insulated the evaporator connection behind the unit pretty well.

 

In the settee units, I have lined the interior of both of them with Kevothermal vacuum insulated panels (R value of this stuff is 60 for 1 inch....it comes thinner as well). This isn't practical for the galley refrigerator because the outside fits too tightly in its place and the inside has too many irregularities to build a vacuum insulated panel mosaic.

 

I don't want to replace it.........it works and having a new unit wouldn't be great aesthetically (and getting the wood panel off the old unit to remedy that looks difficult).

 

I've considered increasing the size of the evaporator........even though re-siting the evaporator drip tray and drain is likewise kind of a pain.........

 

So I'm in the "scratching my head" place right now considering solutions. I was wondering if anyone had done anything creative.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator

Mark Erdos
 

Tom,

 

We rebuilt our entire unit when last in the USA. We replace the thermostat, condenser and compressor. Like you we wanted to maintain the aesthetics of the wood. We looked at replacement units but rebuilding saved us about $1,000 and wasn’t hard to do. At the time we had the unit out, we also wrapped it with ½” foam board. We used duct tape to secure it to the unit. Since doing all of this, our unit now cools nicely and we can maintain about 38F even in the warmer climates. I’m not sure how much the foam helped but I figured it couldn’t hurt to increase the r-value where we could. The top of the unit is still without foam as we couldn’t get the unit back under the counter top with foam on it. Another thing that helps is to cover the hole in the bottom of the unit. We used tape but I guess a bung would work just as well. Since cold air sinks it seemed to me that it made sense to cover this. Lastly, we put a layer of foam board between the compressor unit under the fridge and the box. The compressor puts out quite a bit of heat and surely had to impact the temp of the box. We did this all at once so I can’t really tell you what part made the most difference or worked best. But, hopefully it’ll give you a few ideas. If I had to do this over again, I would opt for a larger evaporator. Hope this helps.

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Bonaire

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of thomas.kleman
Sent: Sunday, August 5, 2018 4:36 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator

 

 

Hello- I own SM2K #422. The galley refrigerator seems incapable of getting to 47 degrees F, even when it has been defrosted. OK I'm in Bonaire where it's hot right now but........I've done the best I can on the door seal and have insulated the evaporator connection behind the unit pretty well.

 

In the settee units, I have lined the interior of both of them with Kevothermal vacuum insulated panels (R value of this stuff is 60 for 1 inch....it comes thinner as well). This isn't practical for the galley refrigerator because the outside fits too tightly in its place and the inside has too many irregularities to build a vacuum insulated panel mosaic.

 

I don't want to replace it.........it works and having a new unit wouldn't be great aesthetically (and getting the wood panel off the old unit to remedy that looks difficult).

 

I've considered increasing the size of the evaporator........even though re-siting the evaporator drip tray and drain is likewise kind of a pain.........

 

So I'm in the "scratching my head" place right now considering solutions. I was wondering if anyone had done anything creative.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Original Autopilot Integration With New Chartplotter

Stephen Davis
 

Hi James,

I probably have one of the more unusual setups in that I have all of my old B&G instruments, and a modern Raymarine system as well. Maybe it is because of my airline pilot background that I like redundancy so much. We even have a 2nd raymarine wind transducer mounted on the mizzen mast. I was skeptical that the mizzen transducer would be all that accurate, but it has proven to be every bit as good as the B&G wind mounted on the main. About 2.5 weeks into our Panama-Hawaii passage, 2  VLSBs (Very Large Seabirds) managed to break the B&G transducer off the main one rough night. It was worth it's weight in gold to still have wind information while hand steering the last 1200 miles with the emergency tiller. The reason we could see the wind instruments at night while having to steer from the edge of the aft coach roof was because of the very bright and readable display on the Raymarine I70 MFD.

This is a rundown of how we upgraded the electronics our 1992 SM after we purchased her in early 2014:

  • When we purchased her she had a newer RM SPX30 autopilot, and the original autohelm rudder reference and flux gate compass. We added a new Ray EV400 autopilot, compass sensor, and a 2nd control head at the helm. We used the same A/B switch documented by Bill K on his site to switch between autopilots. The older boats do not have a linear drive, and I carry a spare rotary drive. It takes me 30 minutes to change the drive out while underway, and yes, I have done it. We will be installing a linear drive while we are in Hawaii. I'll add a 2nd A/B switch for the drives. One important note is that with a linear drive, we could have steered the boat with the autopilot after the racks froze the steering. Also, our rudder reference unit (original Autohelm) failed last week after 26 years of use, and I replaced it with the new unit which came with the EV400. I'll buy another as a spare, as neither autopilot will function without one.
  • When we hauled the boat in late 2014, I removed the small thru-hull transducer for the defunct forward looking sonar, enlarged the hole, and added a networked Ray tri data (speed, temp, and depth). At the same time, I added the 2nd wind transducer on the mizzen and a RM I70 right next to all the B&G instruments at the helm. I really like the I70, as it is configurable to display almost any data you have, and is bright and easy to see. These additions gave me redundancy in depth, wind, and speed.
  • In 2017 while in St Maarten, I brought back some new gear from the USA, and continued the upgrade. I removed the 10" Furuno chart plotter from the helm and the 7" at the nav station. I added a RM ES127 (12") at the helm, and an ES7 (7") at the nav station. They work essentially the same, and we have been very pleased. Either RM MFD can operate as an auto pilot control head, and we removed the 2nd autopilot control head and put it into spares. We bought a 2nd I70 display, and filled the hole with that. We also removed our recently failed Furuno radar, and replaced it with a RM Quantum Chirp radar. One big advantage to all these new electronics is a dramatic reduction in the amount of amps used. We used to leave the radar in standby at night, and turn it on every 15 minutes for a quick scan. We don't even bother to turn it off now, as the amp draw is minimal. All of the RM gear and our 2 Vesper Marine AIS transponders are on the Seatalk NG (NMEA 2000 with a different connector) network. All of the B&G gear is not networked, and I see no reason to change that.
  • When we purchased Aloha, she had an LCD B&G Hydra 2000 FFD at the nav station, and one at the helm. At the helm we also had analogue wind direction, wind speed, boat speed, and depth. The depth transducer failed in 2016. This transducer is a smaller diameter than what is common today, and after some research, we were able to source a replacement in the UK. The depth now works fine, and I expect that system to be reliable for many years to come. When the birds broke our wind transducer, I was able to purchase a lightly used replacement from Ebay for less than 1/2 the new price. We have recently purchased used and rebuilt and certified by B&G a spare Hydra 2000 FFD and the B&G processor that drives the system for a total of $350. My hope is that with these spares, I will have the B&G instrument functional for the time we own the boat.
  • Last but not least is the boat computer we installed in 2015. We built a small DC powered computer on an ITX chassis, and installed a 27" Samsung monitor on a swing out mount. The monitor is also directly powered from DC, so we are not draining amps going through inverters. The computer has a SSD drive, is mounted on a slide out shelf at the nav station, and the monitor is mounted on the bulkhead between the nav station and the salon. The monitor can swing far enough to watch movies in the salon, or be near the companion way to view charts. Our Vesper AIS has a USB output which goes to the computer, and we get position and all network data on Open CPN when it is running. We also make our own Google Earth charts which can be viewed on Open CPN with the big monitor. All in all, it is a slick system with low power draw.
I'm sure many of you think all this is overkill. I'm perfectly capable of sailing most anywhere without most of this gear functional, but it sure is nice to have. With careful planning, purchasing, and doing all the installs myself, I have very little money invested in everything, and really enjoy the redundancy. This is only one way to do things, but after a lot of miles covered, we are pleased with our system.

Regards,

Steve Davis
Aloha SM 72
Ko Olina, Hawaii


On Sun, Aug 5, 2018 at 1:19 PM greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Jams,

When it comes to spares and backups we are all informed by our experiences, prejudices and fears. It's hard to approach with total logic because we really don't have much reliable data about failure rates and causes.

One of the downsides to the NMEA2000 network is that it is all "of one piece." Although it is designed to be robust and fault tolerant, I have seen one corroded connector bring down a big piece of a boat's network.  It's probably a good idea to have a couple spare connectors, and a spare terminating resistor for a NMEA2000 network just in cast you need to bypass part of the circuit.

I do not have any bad experiences with rudder angle sensors, but all of the ones I have used were "dumb" ones hard wired to the course computer. They are simple circuits, and as long as they are kept dry, with good connections, they SHOULD work. On the other hand, without a working sensor, the AP is not usable...

Adding the complexity to have the rudder angle sensor connect through the network makes things...more complicated.  Our two independent AP computers have separate rudder angle sensors so I haven't really felt the need to think hard about backups for that part.  I do carry a complete, drop-in spare, linear drive.  So we have three drives, two computers, two rudder sensors, and two fluxgate compasses. Short of getting struck by lightening, we should be in good shape.

The only part of the system that we have deliberately kept independent of the NMEA2000 network is the backup AP.  If the network totally died, we would still have the ability to steer to a compass course with the older course computer.

We travel with enough hand held devices that include GPS receivers, and paper charts that even serious network problems would be an very annoying inconvenience, not a disaster.

I know some people love their forward scanning sonars, and for good reasons.  If I spent a lot of time cruising in rocky areas like New England I'd likely be more interested. For us, all of our "ground contact events" have been in gradual shoaling areas where we were well aware of the depth. When the forward scanning units get to the point they can help me find a 2.05 meter channel surrounded by 1.95 meter shoals I'll be all in!  

Theoretically, the forward scanning units would allow us to move through coral head infested waters without needing to be as attentive to time of day and visibility, but I am not ready to turn over that task to electronics. If we are doing the eyeball navigation thing anyway, the added value of the electronic version doesn't push it high enough on my wish list.  Don't get me wrong, these things are on my wish list, they just haven't quite gotten to the top of the priority list in the competition for available resources!

When my sailing students asked me some version of the question, "Do I need "X" on my boat to go cruising?" I asked them to do a thought experiment.  Imagine you are at anchor in the lagoon of an isolated tropical atoll.  Device "X" has just irreparably failed.  Can you get home?  If the answer is "Yes" then device "X" is a luxury.  One you might very much want to have, but in the harshest of analyses--a luxury.  If the answer is "No" and you would be stuck in this remote location until device "X" is working again, then you need two of them! 

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA

---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Bill,

   I like your concept of having some stand alone instruments and would like to learn of a good way to have some of the benefits of the network without being reliant too on it .  I will be buying most everything new for my boat so have lots of options so long as I don’t blow the budget. (grin)   If you have any thoughts or suggestions on achieving a good balance between the standalone and networked items please share.    I am using a Zeus 3-9 as my plotter and was thinking of adding the B&G 4G radar.  My instrumentation is the original B&G Analog style which mostly still work.  The wind was replaced by an Advansea unit that still works fine but I think is being phased out.  I really like the idea of the forward looking sonar but wonder if the range and accuracy might improve if I wait a while on that one.  I have two backup chart plotters that are standalone plus a handheld.  I only have the original rotary autopilot which works fine so far. Would you recommend carrying a spare rudder sensor?  Beginning to get the boat ready for the trip from the Med. back to Florida.

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueño
Maramu #220,  about to begin another season in the Med!


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