Date   
Re: Bow thruster oil seal leak

Peter de Groot
 

Thank you Bill and Giovanni,

Bill, RTV was used, I just did a good job wiping off the excess. The leak is between the shaft and the lip of seal not seal to housing. I agree that we need SAV at Amel.  I actually sent SAV an inquiry earlier today. I always like to be prepared with contingencies and choices.

 

Giovanni,

I agree, a little water in the oil is OK, but this leak is too much.

 

Cheers,

Peter

La Querida SM 207

Moss Landing, California

Re: Radar

Aras
 

I went with B&G 4G for just that reason.  Power.   I just got rid of my Furuno.   Wasn't worth anything
Aras 
Sharki #163 1988

On Sun, Mar 15, 2020, 2:05 PM Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...> wrote:
Hello!
Planning to install a Raymarine Quantum radar. We have an very excellent Furuno radar but it draws a lot of AMPS. I have seen that some of you have both the old and the new radar installed. My question should I keep the old radar or retire it? It is 20 years old and risk for it to break down soon?, I can use the old Radar mount and save maybe 500 € by take away the old radar and it will free space above my chart table. Any thoughts on this? you who have two radars the old and a new how often do you use the old one?
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259 

Re: Radar

Arnold Mente
 

Hello Paul,
I have both from FURUNO and I am very satisfied with it. The digital radar on both MFD12 and the old one in navigation. I use the digital at night and, if necessary, the analog for control purposes. When driving close to the coast I use the analogue so the alarm settings of the digital one do not always have to be changed. Furthermore, it is a wonderful backup should the digital fail.

Best
Arnold
SY Zephyr
SM203

Am 15.03.2020 um 19:05 schrieb Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...>:

Hello!
Planning to install a Raymarine Quantum radar. We have an very excellent Furuno radar but it draws a lot of AMPS. I have seen that some of you have both the old and the new radar installed. My question should I keep the old radar or retire it? It is 20 years old and risk for it to break down soon?, I can use the old Radar mount and save maybe 500 € by take away the old radar and it will free space above my chart table. Any thoughts on this? you who have two radars the old and a new how often do you use the old one?
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259 

Arnold Mente

Urbaniweg 12
7000 Eisenstadt 

Tel: +43 660 6699019

arnold.mente@...



--
Arnold
SY Zephyr SM203

Re: Cockpit Loud spekers

mr_hermanns
 

I just put these in my SM - THEY ARE AMAZING!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P0R6GQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Was shocked at the range, and how well it uses the cabinet behind to resonate.

--
Jeremy Hermanns - "Jer"
SVCerulean.com
Maramu #105
Marina Del Rey, CA

Radar

Paul Osterberg
 

Hello!
Planning to install a Raymarine Quantum radar. We have an very excellent Furuno radar but it draws a lot of AMPS. I have seen that some of you have both the old and the new radar installed. My question should I keep the old radar or retire it? It is 20 years old and risk for it to break down soon?, I can use the old Radar mount and save maybe 500 € by take away the old radar and it will free space above my chart table. Any thoughts on this? you who have two radars the old and a new how often do you use the old one?
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259 

Re: Bow thruster oil seal leak

Giovanni TESTA
 

HI,

This my experience with Eutikia,from 2004, sailing around the world.

When I have the boat on the hard, once a year, I always remove the bow thruster foot.

So I replace the seal and , every 2 years, the 2 outside black neoprene disks, as well.

You may have different seals but always ,sooner or later, you have water inside the box.

Any way,  I never had damages because of it. When I change the oil/water, I leave the tube inverted, up down, for a while to empty it. No problem.

Than I add the new oil , the seal and the 2 new black neoprene disks.

Only a very important suggestion: always clean and than add silicon grease inside the bottom engine body before  inserting the black column. There’s a steel circular clip very fragile ! I broke it before Panama Canale, it was a big mess!

Obviously first follow Bill suggestions.

All the best

Giovanni Test

Sv EUTIKIA SM2K n 428



Il 15/03/2020 18:08, Peter de Groot ha scritto:


Greetings all,
This is the second lip seal I've installed.  (The previous owner left a handy stash of parts on board) The first had a single lip, the second came in a bag with Paulstra brand and part number 792521 IEL 30 42 7.  I'm deducing it came from Amel.  It had two lips, a heavier one inwards to retain the oil and a lighter one outwards nearer the outside surface.
Regardless they both leaked after installing.
The surface of the shaft which is not SS (FRP maybe??) feels rough, and there was only a narrow band where it feels smoother.  
The oil that came out was cloudy green, thick like a milk shake, so I'm thinking water was entering.
The question is what to do.  I'm contemplating 3 choices:
-Purchase a new shaft from Amel, perhaps a new complete bow thruster, as the counterbore to receive the seal also has some chips.
-Find a SS speedi-sleeve to provide a smoother surface, machine existing shaft if necessary.
-Make a new shaft with a local machine shop.  In which case which material?  Acetal perhaps, I'm assuming stainless is a no-go.

I'd appreciate any advice if any of you have experienced the same problem.  

Peter de Groot
SM 207 la Querida
Moss Landing, California.

Re: Bow thruster oil seal leak

 

Peter,

You have a number of problems, some I can help you with. 

SUGGESTIONS:
  1. You should never put 100% trust in inherited parts unless you are absolutely sure of their origin. 
  2. You should always buy critical parts from Amel and Amel only.
  3. We all should support Amel SAV because we need them
  4. The Amel OEM part does not have a double lip
  5. The original Amel OEM seal was for a 30 x 42 x 8 single lip seal, but Amel changed that spec to 29 x 42 x 8 single lip seal
  6. Your seal is the wrong size
  7. I do not see any RTV sealing the seal to the seal seat. 
  8. Failure to seal the edges with RTV will likely cause a leak
  9. If the correct seal is used, it should be recessed to the casing about 2-3mm. 
  10. Failure to press the seal all the way in will likely cause a leak
It is possible that the propeller shaft is worn and needs replacing. I believe Amel has these in stock. I have seen worn shafts repaired with a stainless steel sleeve and work correctly, but I think by the time you pay to have this done, a replacement shaft is a better and cheaper solution.

It is also possible that the seal seat (the recessed area where the seal is pressed into) is damaged, or was not clean when you pressed the new seal in place..

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar
cloudHQPowered by
cloudHQ


On Sun, Mar 15, 2020 at 12:08 PM Peter de Groot <pandmdegroot@...> wrote:


Greetings all,
This is the second lip seal I've installed.  (The previous owner left a handy stash of parts on board) The first had a single lip, the second came in a bag with Paulstra brand and part number 792521 IEL 30 42 7.  I'm deducing it came from Amel.  It had two lips, a heavier one inwards to retain the oil and a lighter one outwards nearer the outside surface.
Regardless they both leaked after installing.
The surface of the shaft which is not SS (FRP maybe??) feels rough, and there was only a narrow band where it feels smoother.  
The oil that came out was cloudy green, thick like a milk shake, so I'm thinking water was entering.
The question is what to do.  I'm contemplating 3 choices:
-Purchase a new shaft from Amel, perhaps a new complete bow thruster, as the counterbore to receive the seal also has some chips.
-Find a SS speedi-sleeve to provide a smoother surface, machine existing shaft if necessary.
-Make a new shaft with a local machine shop.  In which case which material?  Acetal perhaps, I'm assuming stainless is a no-go.

I'd appreciate any advice if any of you have experienced the same problem.  

Peter de Groot
SM 207 la Querida
Moss Landing, California.

Bow thruster oil seal leak

Peter de Groot
 



Greetings all,
This is the second lip seal I've installed.  (The previous owner left a handy stash of parts on board) The first had a single lip, the second came in a bag with Paulstra brand and part number 792521 IEL 30 42 7.  I'm deducing it came from Amel.  It had two lips, a heavier one inwards to retain the oil and a lighter one outwards nearer the outside surface.
Regardless they both leaked after installing.
The surface of the shaft which is not SS (FRP maybe??) feels rough, and there was only a narrow band where it feels smoother.  
The oil that came out was cloudy green, thick like a milk shake, so I'm thinking water was entering.
The question is what to do.  I'm contemplating 3 choices:
-Purchase a new shaft from Amel, perhaps a new complete bow thruster, as the counterbore to receive the seal also has some chips.
-Find a SS speedi-sleeve to provide a smoother surface, machine existing shaft if necessary.
-Make a new shaft with a local machine shop.  In which case which material?  Acetal perhaps, I'm assuming stainless is a no-go.

I'd appreciate any advice if any of you have experienced the same problem.  

Peter de Groot
SM 207 la Querida
Moss Landing, California.

Re: Volvo warning

Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
 

Thanks, I see it now.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Gerhard Mueller via Groups.Io
Sent: 15 March 2020 10:34
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo warning

 

Was found at:
https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/files/Volvo%20Penta/volvo%20penta%20workshop%20manual%207748668_EN.pdf

--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

Re: Front furler Bamar MEJ upgrade to EJF? Is it worth it?

Scott SV Tengah
 

For the old MEJ owners, couldn't that problem be solved by just making a slightly longer power cable and create the drip loop?

That would solve the problem of water going into the deck locker from the SS pipe but doesn't fix the problem of water coming in through the top seal of the furler.

On Sun, Mar 15, 2020 at 10:04 AM Courtney Gorman via Groups.Io <Itsfun1=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Here Is the issue the old Furler was smaller and so the wires coming out of the Furrer and back through the deck did not have to loop back up as they do in this photo so the water can get stuck especially if the seals on top are not properly sealed

Cheers 
Courtney 
Trippin 54 #101
LE Marin 

On Mar 3, 2020, at 8:08 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:



I also have a problem understanding the issue on the furler drainage. The thick black (electrical) cable does go via a ss pipe (if I remember correctly) into the sail/bow locker and on AMELIT the caulking around that cable into the ss pipe was compromised and allowed water into the sail/bow locker. Once we fixed that no more water via that entry into the locker.

 

When I am back on the boat I will check if there is a drain plug on the bottom of the furler.

 

Best Regards Teun

SV AMELIT  A54  #128

 

On the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA

March 3, 2020 17:08:08

 

USA cell: +1 832 477 8842

AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909

 

You can follow AMELIT via this link: https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT

 

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Arno Luijten via Groups.Io
Sent: Tuesday, March 3, 2020 04:50
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Front furler Bamar MEJ upgrade to EJF? Is it worth it?

 

I replaced both furlers with the EJF’s. Since they use a planetary gear system instead of belts and worm-gears the torque provided by the furler is about twice as high compared to the original MEJ’s at the same power consumption. For me they are working well, When furling in strong winds I can’t hear the motor being stressed at all, it furls in quite smoothly.

I have a hard time understanding the thing Courtney mentions about the cable sleeve also used for draining any water that enters the unit. When you buy the units the sleeve is quite long and I cannot imagine some Italian designer thinks to use it as a drain pathway. It seems more that you must prevent water to enter the sleeve so it cannot reach the unit.

Do make sure you use the electronically controlled Boxtrons in conjunction with the new furlers as they also provide a soft-start to make it easier on the rig.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121 


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: Front furler Bamar MEJ upgrade to EJF? Is it worth it?

Courtney Gorman
 

Here Is the issue the old Furler was smaller and so the wires coming out of the Furrer and back through the deck did not have to loop back up as they do in this photo so the water can get stuck especially if the seals on top are not properly sealed

Cheers 
Courtney 
Trippin 54 #101
LE Marin 

On Mar 3, 2020, at 8:08 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:



I also have a problem understanding the issue on the furler drainage. The thick black (electrical) cable does go via a ss pipe (if I remember correctly) into the sail/bow locker and on AMELIT the caulking around that cable into the ss pipe was compromised and allowed water into the sail/bow locker. Once we fixed that no more water via that entry into the locker.

 

When I am back on the boat I will check if there is a drain plug on the bottom of the furler.

 

Best Regards Teun

SV AMELIT  A54  #128

 

On the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA

March 3, 2020 17:08:08

 

USA cell: +1 832 477 8842

AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909

 

You can follow AMELIT via this link: https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT

 

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Arno Luijten via Groups.Io
Sent: Tuesday, March 3, 2020 04:50
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Front furler Bamar MEJ upgrade to EJF? Is it worth it?

 

I replaced both furlers with the EJF’s. Since they use a planetary gear system instead of belts and worm-gears the torque provided by the furler is about twice as high compared to the original MEJ’s at the same power consumption. For me they are working well, When furling in strong winds I can’t hear the motor being stressed at all, it furls in quite smoothly.

I have a hard time understanding the thing Courtney mentions about the cable sleeve also used for draining any water that enters the unit. When you buy the units the sleeve is quite long and I cannot imagine some Italian designer thinks to use it as a drain pathway. It seems more that you must prevent water to enter the sleeve so it cannot reach the unit.

Do make sure you use the electronically controlled Boxtrons in conjunction with the new furlers as they also provide a soft-start to make it easier on the rig.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121 

Re: Volvo warning

Gerhard Mueller
 

Re: WiFi Extenders - best 2019-2020

martin haméline
 

Cool Aras
I’m headed to Marin Martinique Saturday and will have the wifi extender with me. 
I also like the Caribbean SIM card combined with a cell phone. 
Cheers 

Martin Hameline
SV VoileOVent 
Maramu
#129


On Mar 15, 2020, at 9:40 AM, Aras <aras.grinius@...> wrote:


I use Rogue Wave antenna mounted on mizzen.  I also use a small Netgear router / switch.  Gives access to all devices on the boat.  Range about 5 miles (line of sight).
Aras
Sharki #163 1988

Re: WiFi Extenders - best 2019-2020

Aras
 

I use Rogue Wave antenna mounted on mizzen.  I also use a small Netgear router / switch.  Gives access to all devices on the boat.  Range about 5 miles (line of sight).
Aras
Sharki #163 1988

Re: Volvo warning

Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
 

I just looked on https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/files and cannot see any Volvo folder. Was this in the original Yahoo group?

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Sv Garulfo
Sent: 14 March 2020 19:21
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo warning

 

Hi,

 

We uploaded the workshop manual with all the codes in the « volvo penta » folder of the group. 

 

 

Hope it’ll be useful

 

 

Thomas 

GARULFO 

A54-122

Tahuata, French Polynesia 

 

 

 

On Wed, 11 Mar 2020 at 05:27, Mark & Debbie Mueller <brass.ring@...> wrote:

The Volvo Service Bulletin was received from an extremely helpful dealer, Fordham Marine, Jacksonville, FL  904.743.2140.  The other information I came across was when I had the same problem as Paul.  I was trying to find a method to determine what was wrong without having to pay a mechanic 2 1/2 hours travel time to come to the boat to diagnose then make a second trip back with the parts.  It seemed very inefficient and costly.  I heard about the OEM mode wanted to learn how to access it.  Wish I had all the codes but have not found a way to get them.  They do vary slightly between different engine models.
--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

Re: WiFi Extenders - best 2019-2020

martin haméline
 

Merci Stefan,
J’aime le concept Digicel en combinaison wifi extender.  
Appreciate the information 

Martin


On Mar 14, 2020, at 6:50 PM, Stefan Schaufert <mail@...> wrote:

We also use(d) the Webcatcher (from Silentwind). 
Easy to install, works like a WLAN-Spot for all your devices.
No problems at all.

What we underestimated: 
1. You have often to many masts or other obstacles between you and the source. 
2. The costs for internet 4G etc. are - together with an impressive network coverage - mostly much lower than expected. 
E.g. for the Caribbean Islands - Digicel. One SIM-contract for nearly all Islands.
Thus it is often much more comfortable and more powerful compared to the antenna/ webcatcher and we use it not as often as we thought.

Best regards
Stefan
AMEL 54 - N°119 - Lady Charlyette, currently Guadeloupe

Re: Volvo warning

Sv Garulfo
 

Hi,

We uploaded the workshop manual with all the codes in the « volvo penta » folder of the group. 


Hope it’ll be useful


Thomas 
GARULFO 
A54-122
Tahuata, French Polynesia 



On Wed, 11 Mar 2020 at 05:27, Mark & Debbie Mueller <brass.ring@...> wrote:
The Volvo Service Bulletin was received from an extremely helpful dealer, Fordham Marine, Jacksonville, FL  904.743.2140.  The other information I came across was when I had the same problem as Paul.  I was trying to find a method to determine what was wrong without having to pay a mechanic 2 1/2 hours travel time to come to the boat to diagnose then make a second trip back with the parts.  It seemed very inefficient and costly.  I heard about the OEM mode wanted to learn how to access it.  Wish I had all the codes but have not found a way to get them.  They do vary slightly between different engine models.
--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54

Re: WiFi Extenders - best 2019-2020

Stefan Schaufert
 

We also use(d) the Webcatcher (from Silentwind). 
Easy to install, works like a WLAN-Spot for all your devices.
No problems at all.

What we underestimated: 
1. You have often to many masts or other obstacles between you and the source. 
2. The costs for internet 4G etc. are - together with an impressive network coverage - mostly much lower than expected. 
E.g. for the Caribbean Islands - Digicel. One SIM-contract for nearly all Islands.
Thus it is often much more comfortable and more powerful compared to the antenna/ webcatcher and we use it not as often as we thought.

Best regards
Stefan
AMEL 54 - N°119 - Lady Charlyette, currently Guadeloupe

Re: Hatch handle seat (corners) for Goiot tradition series

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hello Mike,

I am surprised the corner seats are failing. Eleuthera is the same vintage and corners are still in good order. 

However, from my experience, I’ve replaced some of the handles... probably due to UV damage over the years. Expect a crazy price. 

Cheers

Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM007, Opua


On 15/03/2020, at 9:01 AM, Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:


Hi Charles,

Thanks for laying out the process for me. Very cool. And I appreciate your thoroughness.

I think it's best if we get you a sample in hand. If we can't find one from another owner, perhaps I can remove one off my boat and ship it.

Does anyone reading this have a spare Goiot hatch corner seat (tradition series) that we could borrow for this project?

If there's not a big price difference between materials then the aluminum might be better. My existing ones are a type of polymer and most have not survived the test of time. That said, I'm not sure how long they've been installed (decades?) so perhaps replacement now is totally acceptable. I also don't want all of my handles to now fail if the corner seats are stronger (see attached photo).

At any rate, I'll work to get you a proper sample asap and we can go from there.

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
Opua, NZ


On Thu, Mar 12, 2020, 2:28 PM Charles Bell <shipbldr2000@...> wrote:

[Edited Message Follows]

Hello Mike,

Thank you for the kind words on the parts I made. Yes, I am in the US.

It took me 5 or 6 weeks to make the batch of parts you see in the pictures. The steps are:

  • I spent about a week measuring and drawing the parts, thinking about which measurements are critical for the part to work, and then tweaking the 3D model and cut path. On this project, I am wondering a lot about
    • The inside corner where the plate and wall meet. I am thinking about doing a rounded curve with a ball mill and need to make sure it will not interfere with the latch sweep.
    • The necessary thickness of the base plate and if we might need to make it from aluminum to survive abuse (or if the touch composite I used on the handles will do the job well)
  • After tweaking the design files, I cut samples from scrap, verified the fit on the boat, and then ordered material.
    • The black plastic you see takes me about a week to get in
    • The aluminum can sometimes be *found* in the cut-offs pile of my shop. Otherwise, it is usually 2 days to get in the stock.
  • Then I waited to get machine time to cut the parts. The machines in the shop usually run 24x7 and personal projects have to run on the weekends.
  • Once I had machine time, things happened really fast. Most of the parts you saw in my pictures were a minute or two per cycle.
  • Then the aluminum parts were anodized, about a 3 day turn around.
Assuming no surprises, this is about 4 to 6 weeks.

Without a sample of the original part in hand, there is a really high probability of surprises. 

Maybe we can find somebody in the group who has a broken one they could part with temporarily? 

Let's find a way to do this, I enjoy these sorts of challenges.


Charles

<20200315_085359.jpg>

Re: Rub Rail Rubber Inserts: Last Call

mr_hermanns
 

Ill hit you up on FB messenger!
--
Jeremy Hermanns - "Jer"
SVCerulean.com
Maramu #105
Marina Del Rey, CA