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Re: Exhaust Fan for Cabin - Opinions?
rossirossix4
Hi. Sorry about a late post on this. In our aft cabin we have had very good performance from a Caframo Sirocco fan. It has 3 speeds and at 24V its draw is: 0.06 amps for 90cfm, 0.11 amps for 114 cfm and 0.17 Amps for 140 cfm. It is easy to run a wire under the wood trim from the 24V supply to the rear cabin lights. The fan is quiet and fully gimbaled so it can be flipped if you want to use it to exhaust air or angled to direct air to a specific area in the rear stateroom. It is very quiet. What is most unique is that if mounted correctly (see link to photos) it can be flipped up (held by sturdy detents, not friction) to operating positions or flipped down flush with the bulkhead and completely out of the way. The fan is fairly large and can move a great deal of air but we almost always use it on the low setting. We have never had any success with the idea of pulling air through the boat and exhausting out the rear hatch, but it works very well to pull air in. It also has a timer so you can set it for 2,4,6 hours or continuous. We don't know what we would do without it. Note that one of the pictures shows a black-out curtain that we have that drops in front of the fan but does not restrict air flow. This gives you privacy at the dock even when ventilating. It also clears security bars if you have them. We also have 2 Hella fans on the rear bulkhead but do not use them. Fan: http://www.caframolifestylesolutions.com/product/marine/sirocco-ii-draft/ Pictures installed https://www.dropbox.com/sc/nb4z290lfs49h9j/AACUQn9jfeq6cl4Y9euo9Pa0a
We have awnings and not used our AC for 2 years (accept to cycle it for maintenance). Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI SM 429 Venice On an unrelated matter--if you are like us and use paper towels in the engine room for projects like oil changes, you may relate to the problem of having to grab the roll with an oily hand, struggling to tear off a sheet or having it unroll etc. Here is a low tech solution--we don't store it there, just place it for projects when you rip off a sheet the next one is there to pull https://www.dropbox.com/sc/vu5hz58q7f1meau/AADqq0XsYJORDQzxrquUVPeAa
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Roller Furling Questions
Hi Mark,
You'll have to measure the hole diameter yourself because they may have been enlarged when they were drilled out. And, since you can lift the extrusion out of the socket you can also measure the thickness (rivet length) you'll need. You may find one or more holes a bit larger than others, depending on how carefully they were drilled out. If so enlarge all the holes so you can deal with only one diameter rivet. This it not a fabrication requiring extreme precision - witness the several versions other posters have mentioned from monel rivets, to ss allen bolts, etc.- although I'd recommend Al rivets like the original. Good luck with it - a fun project! Craig, SN#68 Sangaris; Abacos, Bahamas ---In amelyachtowners@..., <mcerdos@...> wrote : Steve,
Thanks you. I suspected it there should be rivets. I have eight holes (four on each side). The holes are in the drum and the foil. They look like they align. There is nothing in these holes other than silicone. I can lift the foil up above the drum and there is no evidence of any connector ever being there. This has been the way since we purchased the boat and only now are we having issues to warrant a close inspection of the set up.
Does anyone know the size of the rivets I should use???? I am assuming pop rivets?
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff www.creampuff.us
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Exhaust water temperature sensor 7MDKAL [1 Attachment]
Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
Fernando, BeBe #387 is a 2002 MDKAV. You have a 2001 MDKAL. Possibly this is part of the reason for the difference. Best, CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus 720 Winnie Street Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Mon, Jul 3, 2017 at 7:12 AM, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Roller Furling Questions
Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
Mark, I am 99% sure that they are allen-head stainless set-screws on BeBe #387. Maybe someone will check for you, so that you will be 100% sure. I bet you are going to stop in Martinique. Why don't you ask:
His rigging shop is at the head of the marina. This is the guy Amel will refer for rigging jobs. And/or also ask:
Best, CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus 720 Winnie Street Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Sun, Jul 2, 2017 at 7:08 PM, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: Jib Furler problem with partly furled sail
Beaute Olivier
Hello Duane, bending this pin may mean that the furler has been overloaded (like trying to furl without easing enough the sheets). You should take down the motor's cover and motor in order to check that the bronze wheel has not been damaged. Don't take down the wheel, but just inspect the grease and see if you can find small bronze chips in the grease (like golden dust). Have a good day. Olivier.
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Re: Exhaust water temperature switch 7MDKAL
That's a bummer, Fernando. Obviously, you would have removed the jumper when you reset the breakers so I really don't have any suggestions. Let's see what happens with the new Exhaust water temperature switch or maybe others have ideas.
Cheers, Craig ---In amelyachtowners@..., <svperegrinus@...> wrote :Hello Craig, I jumped the cables (black and white) across the sensor and the generator turned off, as predicted. Good! However, now the generator is dead. Nothing. I've tried re-setting all the breaker associated to it. No solenoids, no cranking. Bad! Off to the store to buy the new sensor, anyway. Bestest, SM2K N. 350 (2002)
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Re: Exhaust water temperature sensor 7MDKAL
svperegrinus@yahoo.com
Hello Craig,
I jumped the cables (black and white) across the sensor and the generator turned off, as predicted. Good! However, now the generator is dead. Nothing. I've tried re-setting all the breaker associated to it. No solenoids, no cranking. Bad! Off to the store to buy the new sensor, anyway. Bestest, SM2K N. 350 (2002) ---In amelyachtowners@..., <sangaris@...> wrote : Hi Fernando and Ana, Since another post established that the Exhaust Temperature Switch (it's actually not a sensor) is normally open, your 2nd question is interesting. Your old switch probably did not fail, that is, it likely would still close with high temperature, but the picture of the old switch's broken terminal does look like you'd have to replace it to get a new terminal, rather than attempting a fix (unless you can drill the old post out). Given that, you can simply trust the new switch will close when it gets too hot, and shut down the unit. That is a highly likely outcome that I should think you can be comfortable with. In industrial settings, where all safeties had to be tested in service conditions, we used to cut off the cooling water flow and see if the engine shut down (very exciting but not my pocketbook). If you really, really want to test it you'd have to figure out how to heat it past its set point and see if it closed - maybe in your oven, rather than cutting off the cooling water. By all means, do put a jumper between the new terminals when you install the switch and it should activate the shut down relay (which won't test the switch function but will simulate it closing). Have fun. Cheers, Craig and Katherine, SN#68 Sangaris; Abacos, Bahamas ---In amelyachtowners@..., <svperegrinus@...> wrote : Hello, Our sensor, marked F230 402-370 0013, was found failed (one of the wire terminals broken off) during an Onan inspection in Italy, and the part would have taken weeks for express delivery from Onan Netherlands. Here in Marmaris, the part is available at the Onan shop for a "modest" $125. But I have two questions: 1. If I install it myself, is there a need for a thermal paste or some other exotic procedure other than just screwing the new sensor where the old one was? 2. How do you "test" such a sensor? Obviously its absence has not been detected by the genset, which runs like a champ, so after installing the shiny new part, how do I even know if the new part is doing anything other than sitting pretty? I think a functioning sensor is important as otherwise an overheating situation will not be detected and the motor will burn out and possibly cause a fire. Thoughts? Comments? Thanks in advance! Peregrinus SM2K N. 350 (2002) Marmaris, Tk
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Exhaust water temperature sensor 7MDKAL
svperegrinus@yahoo.com
Hello Bill.
Interesting. I attach a picture of my sensor. Notice on the terminal still attached to the sensor there are two white wires, joined together at the connector. Note on the broken off terminal floating in space that there are two black wires, joined together at the connector. Thanks for the follow up. P. SM2K N. 350 (2002) (Generator built 2001) Marmaris (ancient Physkos)
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Re: roller furling questions
I had the foil's rivets replaced with ss bolts in Martinique by the Amel rigger there. They installed pre-tapped ss "receivers" on the inside of the foil in order to strengthen the entire connection point. TefGel is the answer here, as well as checking the bolts every couple of months for a while until they get fully seated.
To me, this again represents Amel's ability to adapt and improve based on customer feedback and problems that crop up. It's a great fix that is holding up perfectly. Once a set of rivets begin to wear and elongate the holes, it's time to apply the stronger fix. The forestay and foil were down for this fix. Also, there is now a "crayon" to install inside the swivel. It is a piece of Teflon that fits into the slot on the foil where the swivel's locating tab fits. It prevents any side-to-side lash of the swivel in it's track. Gary W. S/V Adagio Marmaris, Turkey
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Roller Furling Questions
Hi, Mark, I used 1/4" pop rivets made of Monel. I have read in a thread several years ago that Amel used rivets as a precaution against damaging the foil. The rivets would break rather than the foil if something prevented the foil from turning. I guess if they started putting bolts instead, they decided it wasn't much of a risk. I don't see a need for bolts, and the rivets give me some sense of security, even if it is misplaced. Kent SM 243 Kristy
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Roller Furling Questions
Stephen Davis
Mark, Unfortunately, I'm not back to the boat for another week, but I do have spare rivets and the specs on the boat. I'm fairly certain you can find the rivet size on one of the forum threads. I had to drill mine out when I rebuilt my furler, and then put new ones in. They are fairly large aluminum rivets, and you will need a big rivet gun with lots of leverage to get them in. According to Olivier, they are aluminum, and intended to shear under an extreme load instead of damaging the gearbox. Keep spares, as they do occasionally shear. I bought a whole box from fastenal. Steve
On Jul 2, 2017, at 15:42, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Roller Furling Questions
greatketch@...
Mark,
Stainless screws are fine if you use something like Tefgel to isolate them. Even if you do go with aluminum screws, use Tefgel. The difference in alloys is enough to cause trouble, and the Al screws are not strong enough to remove if there is even a trace of corrosion. Talk to anybody who head had to remove the Al screws Amel used to attach the boom tracks! Bill Kinney SM160 Harmonie Boston, Mass
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Roller Furling Questions [2 Attachments]
greatketch@...
Tapping holes and installing Allen head screws worked great for me when we redid our furling drum.
Bill Kinney Sm160 Harmonie Boston, MA
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Roller Furling Questions
Hi Bill,
Thank you so much. I am amazed the rigger didn’t catch this. We went with a highly recommended premium priced company referred to us by an Amel Guru. They obviously had to detach the foil to replace the head stay. Either they did this or put it back the way they found it. But to fill the holes with silicone and not rivets is inexcusable.
I have pop rivets aboard and can make a repair here in Guadalupe that will get us to Grenada. But, I really like your idea of allen head screws and tapping the drum. Much better solution than rivets. I will make the modification this hurricane season. Now I can see why you have the Amel School.
Do you think stainless screws would be ok or should I try to find aluminum? I always worry about mixing metals.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Guadalupe www.creampuff.us
From:
amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Mark,
I should have also said that you should have rivets securing the foil to the drum, although I assume that you could tap that drum and install allen head set screws (bolts).
Best,
CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus 720 Winnie Street Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Sun, Jul 2, 2017 at 6:08 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
[Attachment(s) from Bill & Judy Rouse included below] Mark,
The first time I saw anything like that was this week on a Super Maramu with a hull number in the 50s. One of my Amel School clients was considering this SM and I was reviewing photos that he took including IMG_0589.JPG, attached. Another photo of this SM appeared that the "rigger" replaced the standing rigging with undersized wire and undersized turnbuckles. I suspect that the "rigger" popped the rivets to install new rigging wire inside that foil.
Your Amel originally had rivets and I bet you lost them when it was re-rigged. The later model SMs had stainless steel allen head bolts, like BeBe. See the attached BeBe #387 Furler.JPG...this was after I had it repainted in Trinidad.
Best,
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Exhaust water temperature sensor 7MDKAL
Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
Fernando, I found the photo that I took at the time that Exhaust Elbow Switch was by-passed. I was wrong, the wires were actually wire-tied together. See the attached. Note that there are only two wires going to the switch, one black and one white. I thought you said that there were two wires joined at each connector on each side of your switch. Either the characteristics of this switch changes with model numbers, or possibly something else is going on. Did your Onan shut down with one terminal broken? Best, CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus 720 Winnie Street Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Sun, Jul 2, 2017 at 5:28 PM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Roller Furling Questions
I have since found a picture in the Amel Manual that clearly shows there should be rivets in these holes.
Does anyone have any advice as to the type of pop rivets? I have aboard an assortment of standard aluminum pop rivets. I am assuming these will work so long as they snugly fit into the holes.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Guadalupe www.creampuff.us
From: Mark Erdos
[mailto:mcerdos@...]
Sent: Sunday, July 2, 2017 6:43 PM To: 'amelyachtowners@...' Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Roller Furling Questions
Steve,
Thanks you. I suspected it there should be rivets. I have eight holes (four on each side). The holes are in the drum and the foil. They look like they align. There is nothing in these holes other than silicone. I can lift the foil up above the drum and there is no evidence of any connector ever being there. This has been the way since we purchased the boat and only now are we having issues to warrant a close inspection of the set up.
Does anyone know the size of the rivets I should use???? I am assuming pop rivets?
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff www.creampuff.us
From:
amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Hey Mark,
I'm assuming you are referring to the rivet holes which hold the aluminum extrusion in place. You should have a total of 8 rivets around it. I can't tell from the pictures if the rivets are in the holes...are they? It is normal for them to be covered with silicone.
Steve Aloha SM72 Aruba for the summer
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Roller Furling Questions [2 Attachments]
Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
Mark, I should have also said that you should have rivets securing the foil to the drum, although I assume that you could tap that drum and install allen head set screws (bolts). Best, CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus 720 Winnie Street Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Sun, Jul 2, 2017 at 6:08 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Roller Furling Questions
Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
Mark, The first time I saw anything like that was this week on a Super Maramu with a hull number in the 50s. One of my Amel School clients was considering this SM and I was reviewing photos that he took including IMG_0589.JPG, attached. Another photo of this SM appeared that the "rigger" replaced the standing rigging with undersized wire and undersized turnbuckles. I suspect that the "rigger" popped the rivets to install new rigging wire inside that foil. Your Amel originally had rivets and I bet you lost them when it was re-rigged. The later model SMs had stainless steel allen head bolts, like BeBe. See the attached BeBe #387 Furler.JPG...this was after I had it repainted in Trinidad. Best, CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus 720 Winnie Street Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Roller Furling Questions
Steve,
Thanks you. I suspected it there should be rivets. I have eight holes (four on each side). The holes are in the drum and the foil. They look like they align. There is nothing in these holes other than silicone. I can lift the foil up above the drum and there is no evidence of any connector ever being there. This has been the way since we purchased the boat and only now are we having issues to warrant a close inspection of the set up.
Does anyone know the size of the rivets I should use???? I am assuming pop rivets?
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff www.creampuff.us
From:
amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Hey Mark,
I'm assuming you are referring to the rivet holes which hold the aluminum extrusion in place. You should have a total of 8 rivets around it. I can't tell from the pictures if the rivets are in the holes...are they? It is normal for them to be covered with silicone.
Steve Aloha SM72 Aruba for the summer
On Jul 2, 2017, at 14:54, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Roller Furling Questions
I did do a search prior to posting and couldn’t find anything specific to my question.
Should it be bolts or rivets? If so, does someone have the specs please. If it is bolts, do they pass all the way through and how is the bolt situated on the curved surface? And, how could the bolts be tightened if only one side can be accessed?
Since this goof was done by the previous owner I have no idea what the original set up was.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Guadalupe www.creampuff.us
From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, July 2, 2017 6:14 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Roller Furling Questions
Mark, there should be either bolts or rivets in those holes connecting the drum of the upper drum to the foil. There was a thread just a few days ago (search for jib furler), there were instructions on how to remove that upper drum then you can inspect the upper drum and the foil for the type of connector.
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