Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] How to flush Volvo D3-110i-C

karkauai
 

I would call and ask them.
 954-987-2722
info “at” trac-online “dot” com

My understanding is that B.B. is not damaging to your engine, but there is nothing to that effect on their website.  I leave it for 6-12 hours 1-2 times a year with no discernible adverse effects after several years.  I’m guessing it will take more than one treatment.  You should flush your other seawater systems at the same time (AC, heads if they come off the sea chest manifold, water maker...don’t allow B.B. to get to the membranes).

Kent
SM 243
Kristy


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel 54 bimini and weather protection

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Porter,

We are an SM but I think our solution would work for the 54. Like you we wanted all round and over cockpit protection with the option to get lots of air when we wanted it. We put a tube across the boat behind the mizzen and above the mizzen boom. We flattened the ends of the tube and wrapped them into a u to fit around the lower side-stays which were in perfect alignment for this.(perhaps the 54 is stayed differently) We clamped them there Amel style with a small through bolt, Then we had made a cover that zipped onto the bimini and covered the full width of the cockpit and attached to our new cross tube. We then had made roll down and zip covers to zip onto each side and a split drop and zip cover for the aft of the cockpit. No attachment is needed to either the comings or the aft deck. The side and back curtains roll down and up quickly and easily. The cover over the cockpit is easily removable if you are too tired to step out of the cockpit for your sun. I was not going to ask my wife to fry in the sun for years. We seldom remove the overhead but roll the side and back curtains up and down as needed. We never get wet...ever, and get all the air we need. Access in and out of the cockpit is not inhibited. About nine years ago I posted photos on the forum. I guess they are still there. 

Hope this helps.

Kind Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 24 June 2018 at 11:55 "Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

A question to 54 owners, critics and aficionados: After + one year of ownership and about 10000 miles I love the boat. But the weather protection options in the cockpit so far are poor. I reach out to you to understand if I am an outlier in my opinion, and secondarily if others have come up with better options or have suggestions.

We have the included bimini which is fairly good for what it does but... the extension allows lots of water in, is cut too narrow over the winches and allows a lot of weather in.. rain down the back rest and water everywhere. The setup is great on a beam reach to upwind and when the sun is shining but stops there

I’d like all around weather protection for when it’s raining day 3 and the wind is up my derrière.

I have shoulders that zip into the extension made out of sunbrella that extend out to the rails. Great for low sun but water leaks through the zippers..

I have a second set of shoulders again that zip into the extension that extend down to the side just under the winches on the out side. Zippers leak horribly.

In a few months we head across the pacific. Any tips or advice for this problem?

Thanks so much

Porter McRoberts

54-152. Ibis.

Excuse the errors.
Sent from my IPhone
Www.fouribis.com


 


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Boots for spreaders

James Alton
 

Bill Kinney,

   I agree that sailing in light air offshore in flat seas should not be a threat to your sails.  Any chafe issues should be manageable.  The problem comes when the wind has been strong enough to generate a large sea (or perhaps there are large swells moving in from some storm thousands of miles away that are causing the boat to roll) and then the wind drops to a light breeze that is causing the overlapping genoa to wrap around the spreader and rigging with each roll.  This does cause significant chafe in my experience mainly along the overlapped portion of the genoa but especially at the spreader tips. The solutions that I have found are to:

1. Roll in enough of the genoa that the sail is no longer overlapping the rig.  The sheet still suffers but at least the sail does not come in contact with the rig.

2. If the wind is far enough off the nose, add some thrust from the engine to increase the flow over the keel to dampen the rolling and increase the apparent wind to help keep the genoa drawing which also helps to dampen the rolling.

3.  Just take in the genoa completely and wait for better conditions.

If you have found any better ideas, I would be interested in hearing them.

Best,

James
SV Sueño
Maramu #220



On Jun 23, 2018, at 6:52 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Everybody makes their own "rules" for their cruising.  Everybody's rules are right for somebody, but nobody's rules are right for everybody.  


It is important to remember, there is no reason that a well cared for sail should ever chafe itself to death--even if you have no engine at all. If your sails are "tearing up", it is the equivalent of your engine dying from not changing your engine oil.

Even the best dacron sails are NOT maintenance free.  They are really expensive, and deserve to be taken good care of.

They need to be taken down at least every 70 to 100 sailing days--and very carefully inspected.  Every seam  Every inch of luff and leach.  Every place where a seam shows thread wear needs to be resewn, and maybe taped over.  Every place the cloth shows chafe, needs to have a sacrificial patch installed. If you can't do that yourself, then a good sailmaker needs to do it. If that is done properly and regularly, your sails will live a normal life.  They will not die because you sailed in light winds.

If you do not maintain your sails, then be sure you only use them in winds of between 8 and 20 knots. Motor in all other conditions to save money.

Sails should only die for one of two reasons: 

Sun exposure.  Nothing can be done about it, unless you just decide to motor all the time.  There is nothing wrong with that, if that is what you want to. You'll save lots of money on sails.  Based on my experience in charter fleets where boats were used every single day, sun rot kills dacron sailcoth in 400 to 800 days of sailing.  A little slower in temperate latitudes, a bit faster in the tropics.  If a sail is sun rotten, it will tear at the slightest provocation, and really isn't worth fixing.

Sails can also die when they stretch out of shape to the point they really don't work well any more.  That is a huge function of conditions you sail in.  Light winds stretch sails very little, strong winds stretch more. This is an insidious problem.  Because it happens so slowly, you don't notice the change over time.  When you do finally get new sails, you feel like the whole boat is new it sails so much better!

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

James,

Motor or motor-sail when you need it to exceed 4kts is my rule. And, never tear up sails for the sake of "purity." A motor rebuild because of high hours is much cheaper than a set of sails. And, today, with the state of modern diesel fuel, burn that fuel in your tank in 6 months or less.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970






On Fri, Jun 22, 2018 at 7:52 PM James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill,


   You don’t miss much.  (grin)   I wonder sometimes when I am slatting in light winds if the engine would cost less to cover the same number of miles as the wear and tear on the sails, blocks etc.  I find sailing to be much more enjoyable than motoring so unless there is a good reason to rush I am usually willing to pay the possible extra cost per mile for the peace and quiet.  

   May I ask what your experienced thoughts are on when to motor or not on a long passage?

Thanks,

James Alton
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Jun 20, 2018, at 8:48 AM, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


James,

Exactly. I didn't want to be the one to say it. I have a friend that goes through sails in 5 years, but puts almost zero hours on his engine.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel 54 bimini and weather protection

Sv Garulfo
 

Hi Porter,

No direct solution to offer but I agree with your findings. The extension cut allows to get in and out of the cockpit easily but the drawback is the lack of protection against rain flowing down the side onto the backrest of the cockpit benches. We sewed some small lines about ten inches from the side and one centered to elevate three points and help create 2 channels to guide the water towards the back. Not great but better than a sudden soaking down the back of your shirt. 

We don't have issues (yet) with the zippers of the shoulders but they are detrimental to movement on the boat so we only ever put one out (sunset side) and get out of the cockpit the other side. 

The other solution is the full winter enclosure. We loved it for weather protection... in the (Mediterranean) winter. A light fleece was enough for a downwind passage to Corsica in a January mistral gale. For tropical weather, we find it a bit OTT and enclosing/greenhouse (we experienced it aboard a friend's 54 in Martinique). One would need to be able to roll up the back panels easily, at least. 


We'd be happy to see solutions to that puzzle !


Best,

Thomas 
GARULFO 
A54-122
Curaçao 



On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 at 20:03, Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

A question to 54 owners, critics and aficionados: After + one year of ownership and about 10000 miles I love the boat. But the weather protection options in the cockpit so far are poor. I reach out to you to understand if I am an outlier in my opinion, and secondarily if others have come up with better options or have suggestions.

We have the included bimini which is fairly good for what it does but... the extension allows lots of water in, is cut too narrow over the winches and allows a lot of weather in.. rain down the back rest and water everywhere. The setup is great on a beam reach to upwind and when the sun is shining but stops there

I’d like all around weather protection for when it’s raining day 3 and the wind is up my derrière.

I have shoulders that zip into the extension made out of sunbrella that extend out to the rails. Great for low sun but water leaks through the zippers..

I have a second set of shoulders again that zip into the extension that extend down to the side just under the winches on the out side. Zippers leak horribly.

In a few months we head across the pacific. Any tips or advice for this problem?

Thanks so much

Porter McRoberts

54-152. Ibis.

Excuse the errors.
Sent from my IPhone
Www.fouribis.com


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] How to flush Volvo D3-110i-C

ya_fohi
 

Mark,

I have decided to at least try BB first rather than spend $$$ straight away. One question: how long should BB be allowed to sit in the system? I don't want to risk any damage it may cause if left too long.

Cheers,
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


Amel 54 bimini and weather protection

Porter McRoberts
 

A question to 54 owners, critics and aficionados: After + one year of ownership and about 10000 miles I love the boat. But the weather protection options in the cockpit so far are poor. I reach out to you to understand if I am an outlier in my opinion, and secondarily if others have come up with better options or have suggestions.

We have the included bimini which is fairly good for what it does but... the extension allows lots of water in, is cut too narrow over the winches and allows a lot of weather in.. rain down the back rest and water everywhere. The setup is great on a beam reach to upwind and when the sun is shining but stops there

I’d like all around weather protection for when it’s raining day 3 and the wind is up my derrière.

I have shoulders that zip into the extension made out of sunbrella that extend out to the rails. Great for low sun but water leaks through the zippers.

I have a second set of shoulders again that zip into the extension that extend down to the side just under the winches on the out side. Zippers leak horribly.

In a few months we head across the pacific. Any tips or advice for this problem?

Thanks so much


Porter McRoberts

54-152. Ibis.


Excuse the errors.
Sent from my IPhone
Www.fouribis.com


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Boots for spreaders

James Alton
 

Bill Rouse,

   Thanks for sharing some of the rules that you use when deciding when to sail, motor sail or just motor that I assume were developed over many years of sailing your Amel.  

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Jun 23, 2018, at 6:52 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Boots for spreaders

greatketch@...
 

Everybody makes their own "rules" for their cruising.  Everybody's rules are right for somebody, but nobody's rules are right for everybody.  

It is important to remember, there is no reason that a well cared for sail should ever chafe itself to death--even if you have no engine at all. If your sails are "tearing up", it is the equivalent of your engine dying from not changing your engine oil.

Even the best dacron sails are NOT maintenance free.  They are really expensive, and deserve to be taken good care of.

They need to be taken down at least every 70 to 100 sailing days--and very carefully inspected.  Every seam  Every inch of luff and leach.  Every place where a seam shows thread wear needs to be resewn, and maybe taped over.  Every place the cloth shows chafe, needs to have a sacrificial patch installed. If you can't do that yourself, then a good sailmaker needs to do it. If that is done properly and regularly, your sails will live a normal life.  They will not die because you sailed in light winds.

If you do not maintain your sails, then be sure you only use them in winds of between 8 and 20 knots. Motor in all other conditions to save money.

Sails should only die for one of two reasons: 

Sun exposure.  Nothing can be done about it, unless you just decide to motor all the time.  There is nothing wrong with that, if that is what you want to. You'll save lots of money on sails.  Based on my experience in charter fleets where boats were used every single day, sun rot kills dacron sailcoth in 400 to 800 days of sailing.  A little slower in temperate latitudes, a bit faster in the tropics.  If a sail is sun rotten, it will tear at the slightest provocation, and really isn't worth fixing.

Sails can also die when they stretch out of shape to the point they really don't work well any more.  That is a huge function of conditions you sail in.  Light winds stretch sails very little, strong winds stretch more. This is an insidious problem.  Because it happens so slowly, you don't notice the change over time.  When you do finally get new sails, you feel like the whole boat is new it sails so much better!

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


---In amelyachtowners@..., <brouse@...> wrote :

James,

Motor or motor-sail when you need it to exceed 4kts is my rule. And, never tear up sails for the sake of "purity." A motor rebuild because of high hours is much cheaper than a set of sails. And, today, with the state of modern diesel fuel, burn that fuel in your tank in 6 months or less.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970






On Fri, Jun 22, 2018 at 7:52 PM James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill,


   You don’t miss much.  (grin)   I wonder sometimes when I am slatting in light winds if the engine would cost less to cover the same number of miles as the wear and tear on the sails, blocks etc.  I find sailing to be much more enjoyable than motoring so unless there is a good reason to rush I am usually willing to pay the possible extra cost per mile for the peace and quiet.  

   May I ask what your experienced thoughts are on when to motor or not on a long passage?

Thanks,

James Alton
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Jun 20, 2018, at 8:48 AM, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


James,

Exactly. I didn't want to be the one to say it. I have a friend that goes through sails in 5 years, but puts almost zero hours on his engine.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Electrolux oven door

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi, I'm not familiar with that entrance but I have seen some dramatic seas in entrances with a brisk wind against the tide. If the wind blows the same way as the tide its OK but have it against the tide and you would not want to be there. Having been caught once I now wait for the correct tide.

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 24 June 2018 at 07:29 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I passed on going into that inlet this winter.  8-10 ft swells breaking close on both sides with a 20+ kt East wind blowing us onto the rocks to leeward of the channel.  We sailed on to Eleuthera overnight.


Glad you didn’t have any worse damage than you did.

Kent
 Kristy
SM243
 

 


 


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Electrolux oven door

karkauai
 

I passed on going into that inlet this winter.  8-10 ft swells breaking close on both sides with a 20+ kt East wind blowing us onto the rocks to leeward of the channel.  We sailed on to Eleuthera overnight.

Glad you didn’t have any worse damage than you did.

Kent
 Kristy
SM243


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Boots for spreaders

 

James,

Motor or motor-sail when you need it to exceed 4kts is my rule. And, never tear up sails for the sake of "purity." A motor rebuild because of high hours is much cheaper than a set of sails. And, today, with the state of modern diesel fuel, burn that fuel in your tank in 6 months or less.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970






On Fri, Jun 22, 2018 at 7:52 PM James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill,


   You don’t miss much.  (grin)   I wonder sometimes when I am slatting in light winds if the engine would cost less to cover the same number of miles as the wear and tear on the sails, blocks etc.  I find sailing to be much more enjoyable than motoring so unless there is a good reason to rush I am usually willing to pay the possible extra cost per mile for the peace and quiet.  

   May I ask what your experienced thoughts are on when to motor or not on a long passage?

Thanks,

James Alton
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Jun 20, 2018, at 8:48 AM, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


James,

Exactly. I didn't want to be the one to say it. I have a friend that goes through sails in 5 years, but puts almost zero hours on his engine.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Tue, Jun 19, 2018, 19:44 James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I think that most of the wear on a Genoa from the spreader tips occurs when the winds are light and there is a beam sea running making the boat roll.  Under those conditions the Genoa can rub the spreader tip even with the sheet well eased.  Patches on the Genoa certainly help but a well rounded roller on the spreader tip I think helps even more.  

Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Jun 19, 2018 5:34 PM, "arthur saftlas art@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

A properly trimmed genoa should not touch a spreader.


"The cure for anything is salt water; sweat, tears, or the sea." - Karen Blixen








Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Electrolux oven door

John Clark
 

Hi Kent,
   we were entering the Sea of Abaco at Little Harbor Inlet.  Sails furled, with the wind and 6-7 ft swells at our back.   The swells were rolling under us nicely when a big breaker came out of nowhere landing on the stbd quarter.  When I heard the sound change and turned to look there was white water breaking just above the solar panels.  Luckily we had companionway shut as the wave swamped the cockpit and dragged us over to port..  One drawer in the nav station unlatched dropping stationary supplies  and the machete came out of the pocket under the nav station stool.  Other than the oven glass it wasn't too bad.  

That inlet can generate good sized swells.  Another 50ft ketch went out the next morning and had a bear of a time pushing through them.  


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: tap valve cartridges for Maramu 46 galley taps

Gregory Shea
 

Christian,
I found some tetes universelles on Amazon.fr but first I have to get the old ones apart. After 32 years the little screw in the centre is reluctant to move. Did you have difficulty getting yours out? Heat?

Greg Shea
Sharki 133
Cap des iles


From: amelyachtowners@... on behalf of calbyy@... [amelyachtowners]
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2018 5:25:22 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: tap valve cartridges for Maramu 46 galley taps
 
 

hello
replaced all 3 in Canet at 'Plomberie du Littoral (small retailer)
brought part & checked in Template they use for identification of threads
part called 'tête universelle de robinet 18;150'
unit price 4.64 euros (total 3 pces 16.70 including VAT)
 
try Amazone for supply
otherwise a quick trip to France or french islands in Caribeans; go to to small retailers for plumbers & bring one sample Cartridge with you to check & confirm threads with replacement.

would gladly buy & send to you but check cost of freight by UPS or equivalent before ...

good Hunting

christian alby - Désirade VIII Maramu 116 - now in Canet en Roussillon 




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Electrolux oven door

Alan Leslie
 

Moral : don't store machetes in the nav station !!


Re: For Sale, Super Maramu # 180

tango708@...
 

Hello Amel Owners and those who want to be,
Anni Bea True is available for sale and is now in the Annapolis area and available for viewing.  Interested parties may contact me via phone 206.841.9556 or by email at wtstout at mac dot com.

Will Stout
Anni Bea True, SM 180


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Electrolux oven door

karkauai
 

Wow!  Where were you John?  Other conditions? Wind? Wave height and period? Overpowered?

Glad you and yours and Annie are okay.  Must’ve been quite a scare!

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM 243


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Boots for spreaders

James Alton
 

Bill,

   You don’t miss much.  (grin)   I wonder sometimes when I am slatting in light winds if the engine would cost less to cover the same number of miles as the wear and tear on the sails, blocks etc.  I find sailing to be much more enjoyable than motoring so unless there is a good reason to rush I am usually willing to pay the possible extra cost per mile for the peace and quiet.  

   May I ask what your experienced thoughts are on when to motor or not on a long passage?

Thanks,

James Alton
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Jun 20, 2018, at 8:48 AM, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


James,

Exactly. I didn't want to be the one to say it. I have a friend that goes through sails in 5 years, but puts almost zero hours on his engine.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Tue, Jun 19, 2018, 19:44 James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I think that most of the wear on a Genoa from the spreader tips occurs when the winds are light and there is a beam sea running making the boat roll.  Under those conditions the Genoa can rub the spreader tip even with the sheet well eased.  Patches on the Genoa certainly help but a well rounded roller on the spreader tip I think helps even more.  

Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Jun 19, 2018 5:34 PM, "arthur saftlas art@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

A properly trimmed genoa should not touch a spreader.


"The cure for anything is salt water; sweat, tears, or the sea." - Karen Blixen








Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Older Maramu steering system pics [3 Attachments]

James Alton
 

Miles,

   Sorry that I did not comment on these excellent photos earlier, we have been doing the 70-80 hour work week thing lately so a few things have had to slide a bit.  (grin)  The center photo of the rack is interesting to me since it appears that there is very little wear!  It is very helpful to see how some of these bits come apart since I have not taken the steering system on Sueño apart yet so thanks for sharing.

    Can you tell me if the cables are adjusted at the quadrant end or at the other end?  

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Jun 16, 2018, at 12:12 PM, smiles bernard smilesbernard@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

[Attachment(s) from smiles bernard included below]

Hey folks 

I thought these might be of interest for those with older Maramus with the morse red cables and the Morse 401 commander steering system.  

I know it would have helped me to have had these so hope they are helpful for any future service plans

All the best
Miles 


















Electrolux oven door

John Clark
 

Hi All,

   Last March we took a wave and rolled almost 90 degrees to port.  A machete took the opportunity to fly out from under the nav station into the oven door shattering the tempered glass.  If anyone has an unwanted or  old Electrolux marine stove, or if you run across one,  please let me know.   


                 Regards John


John Clark

SV Annie SM 37

 Rodney Bay, St. Lucia


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RUDDER ZINC SACRIFICE ANODES - QUESTION

James Alton
 

Miles,

   Both of the rudder zincs on my Maramu thread into the stainless plates.  I would think that having the bolt threaded into the plate would be required to insure that you have a good electrical contact. When you tighten a bolt threaded into a plate, the threads are brought into metal to metal contact due to the tension, with just the bolt in a hole, maybe you have a connection and maybe not since nothing is really pressing the two bits of metal together.   Perhaps the threads stripped out on your rudder and someone in the past thought that they had fixed the problem by drilling through the plates and adding the bolt?  You could check for continuity between the zincs and the internal bonding system to see if you have a good electrical contact.  When I checked my zincs the OHM’s reading was 0.   I am thinking that you would be better off taping the holes for the next size up bolt.  You might in the future need to drill out your zincs to accommodate the larger bolt but it would not be a big job.  

All the best to you,

James Alton 
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Jun 22, 2018, at 4:45 PM, 'smilesbernard@...' smilesbernard@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hi there
My anodes are both held on by one single bolt that passes right through the rudder
I was a bit confused as to how the anodes were actually connected to any metalwork but the bot does go through one of the 5  stainless plates mentioned.
Does anyone else have this setup?
Not that convinced that the bolt passing through the stainless plate has sufficient contact area. Infact the yard took this off and i'm now wondering if the bolt threads into the plate at all or just pushes through a hole. Hopefully the former!

All the best
Miles 
Older Maramu 162


On Saturday, June 9, 2018, 10:46:48 PM GMT+1, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 

Hello Alex, Kent and Dennis,

the zincs are bolted into a stainless steel plate that is welded to the rudder shaft. There are 5 of them inside the rudder.
Alex, you need to drill the rudder with a 2 mm drill, on the other side of where your single zinc is attached, just to "feel" the stainless steel plate. Once you feel it, drill with an 8.5 mm and tap at 10mm. You will then put a new stainless steel screw into the new hole.
You could also try to find the next stainless steel plate above the one where you have your zinc, but this is more difficult, unless you have an accurate metal detector.

Bon courage.

Olivier

On Friday, June 8, 2018, 2:54:53 PM GMT+2, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:


 

The bolt on the other side will be the same thread.  If the threads are stripped you may be able to rethread with the same size.  If you need to go larger, I’d rethread the other side the same so you don’t need two size wrenches.  With bigger bolts you may need to drill the zincs out to accommodate a larger bolt (I have to do that on all my zincs, they drill easily.)



Kent
S/V Kristy
SM243

On Jun 7, 2018, at 5:36 PM, alex.paquin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

As part of the project to apply the new gelcoat on the hull, we were in the process of replacing the zinc anodes on the rudder (the older Maramu has 2). We noticed that one of the anodes was missing when Simpatico went on the hard. Further investigation revealed that the bolt or element on which the anode is screwed (inside the spade) onto is also missing, so we are unable to screw the second anode in place. Any thoughts of how we should proceed in this case. As far as we know, the inside of the rudder spade is not serviceable.


Alex Paquin

s/v SIMPATICO

Hull # 94




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