Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Membrane replacement on bilge pump.

Craig Briggs
 

Good job, Bob.
Cheers


---In amelyachtowners@..., <renaissanceiii@...> wrote :

Craig, repaired bilge pump and used both membranes, didn’t lose anything, 



Bob Grey

On Thursday, May 17, 2018, 17:12, Peter Forbes ppsforbes@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Craig,


I have changed mine several times - use both membranes. Be very careful not to drop parts down sump - I block sump opening with a sheet in case!

Good luck

Peter
Carango
Amel 54#035
Azores

Peter Forbes

On 17 May 2018, at 02:20, Bob Grey renaissanceiii@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi craig, as a last resort, I looked in the equipment manuals supplied with the boat, and there is an exploded diagram showing the 2 diaphragms in the assembly so question answered. Use both, the one under the white paper goes on the air side.


Maude was super helpful and had the part in stock to replenish my spares cabinet. Hopefully will last another 5 years.

Bob Grey
Renaissance 3


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad

On Thursday, May 17, 2018, 08:32, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Bob,

Just one, as I recall.  It'll become clear, of course, when you open up the pump. Wear gloves - yucchy job !
Cheers,
Craig SN68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., <renaissanceiii@....> wrote :

Hi guys, I have a Reya Marine ZZ bilge pump that started leaking, caused by a torn membrane, luckily had a maintenance kit in my spares box, there were two separate membranes in the kit along with a big o ring and 2 valves.

The question I ask is do you use one or both membranes in the repair? They seem identical.

I couldn’t find any online reference guide or pump exploded view to answer what is probably an obvious answer “ use both “ but as I’m sure there are many Amel owners who have repaired their pump and know the answer.


Bob Grey
Amel 55 #25


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Membrane replacement on bilge pump.

Craig Briggs
 

Good job, Bob. 
Cheers


---In amelyachtowners@..., <renaissanceiii@...> wrote :

Craig, repaired bilge pump and used both membranes, didn’t lose anything, 



Bob Grey

On Thursday, May 17, 2018, 17:12, Peter Forbes ppsforbes@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Craig,


I have changed mine several times - use both membranes. Be very careful not to drop parts down sump - I block sump opening with a sheet in case!

Good luck

Peter
Carango
Amel 54#035
Azores

Peter Forbes

On 17 May 2018, at 02:20, Bob Grey renaissanceiii@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi craig, as a last resort, I looked in the equipment manuals supplied with the boat, and there is an exploded diagram showing the 2 diaphragms in the assembly so question answered. Use both, the one under the white paper goes on the air side.


Maude was super helpful and had the part in stock to replenish my spares cabinet. Hopefully will last another 5 years.

Bob Grey
Renaissance 3


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad

On Thursday, May 17, 2018, 08:32, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Bob,

Just one, as I recall.  It'll become clear, of course, when you open up the pump. Wear gloves - yucchy job !
Cheers,
Craig SN68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., <renaissanceiii@....> wrote :

Hi guys, I have a Reya Marine ZZ bilge pump that started leaking, caused by a torn membrane, luckily had a maintenance kit in my spares box, there were two separate membranes in the kit along with a big o ring and 2 valves.

The question I ask is do you use one or both membranes in the repair? They seem identical.

I couldn’t find any online reference guide or pump exploded view to answer what is probably an obvious answer “ use both “ but as I’m sure there are many Amel owners who have repaired their pump and know the answer.


Bob Grey
Amel 55 #25


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Membrane replacement on bilge pump.

Bob Grey
 

Craig, repaired bilge pump and used both membranes, didn’t lose anything, 



Bob Grey

On Thursday, May 17, 2018, 17:12, Peter Forbes ppsforbes@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 

Craig,


I have changed mine several times - use both membranes. Be very careful not to drop parts down sump - I block sump opening with a sheet in case!

Good luck

Peter
Carango
Amel 54#035
Azores

Peter Forbes

On 17 May 2018, at 02:20, Bob Grey renaissanceiii@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi craig, as a last resort, I looked in the equipment manuals supplied with the boat, and there is an exploded diagram showing the 2 diaphragms in the assembly so question answered. Use both, the one under the white paper goes on the air side.


Maude was super helpful and had the part in stock to replenish my spares cabinet. Hopefully will last another 5 years.

Bob Grey
Renaissance 3


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad

On Thursday, May 17, 2018, 08:32, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Bob,

Just one, as I recall.  It'll become clear, of course, when you open up the pump. Wear gloves - yucchy job !
Cheers,
Craig SN68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Hi guys, I have a Reya Marine ZZ bilge pump that started leaking, caused by a torn membrane, luckily had a maintenance kit in my spares box, there were two separate membranes in the kit along with a big o ring and 2 valves.

The question I ask is do you use one or both membranes in the repair? They seem identical.

I couldn’t find any online reference guide or pump exploded view to answer what is probably an obvious answer “ use both “ but as I’m sure there are many Amel owners who have repaired their pump and know the answer.


Bob Grey
Amel 55 #25


Re: Frigoboat Installation

John Clark
 

Hi Steve,
   Yes, Nikimat was a later hull number with a different layout under the sink in the galley.  I have a 1990, with the frig near the stove.  The compressor is mounted on the upper left rear side of the refrigerator.  There is a small hole between the undersink storage area and the coil on the compressor to help airflow.  

                    Regards,  John

John Clark
SV Annie SM 37
St John USVI


Frigoboat Installation

Steve Bode
 

Does anyone have pictures of how the original Frigoboat fridge was installed in a circa 1994 Super Maramu? The original fridge was removed from my boat before I bought it and a home fridge (220v) was inserted.  I have purchased a new Frigoboat MS160 cabinet and a Capri 50F to replace it. I thought the compressor was originally mounted beneath the fridge cabinet, something like the pictures in Alexandre’s SM2000 “Nikimat” http://nikimat.com/fridge_removal.html,  but it doesn’t look like it (see my pictures). Any help from someone’s who’s done this would be SO appreciated!

Steve Bode
SV Intention, Amel SM117
Puerto Ginesta, Spain
facebook: stevebodesanfrancisco
+1 415-710-6659



Sea water pump

Peter Forbes
 

I feel such a fool! It must be the sun that has got to me - I asked about water pumps and mistakenly in my post asked about fresh water pumps - many people including Bill replied very kindly -


What I meant was the sea water pump for the fridges which seems to draw only 1 amp the only replacements I can find draw about 3-5 amps - I have asked Maud at Amel and she has none. Any ideas the pump is 12v draws 1 amp amp pumps 6 litres of salt water per minute. Does anyone know if the associated circuitry including the frigoboat distribution box can take 3 amps - I guess not as got has a 2 amp fuse?

Peter


Peter Forbes
Amel 54#035 Carango
Azores en route to La Rochelle
00447836 209730


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Membrane replacement on bilge pump.

Peter Forbes
 

Craig,

I have changed mine several times - use both membranes. Be very careful not to drop parts down sump - I block sump opening with a sheet in case!

Good luck

Peter
Carango
Amel 54#035
Azores

Peter Forbes
00447836 209730

On 17 May 2018, at 02:20, Bob Grey renaissanceiii@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi craig, as a last resort, I looked in the equipment manuals supplied with the boat, and there is an exploded diagram showing the 2 diaphragms in the assembly so question answered. Use both, the one under the white paper goes on the air side.


Maude was super helpful and had the part in stock to replenish my spares cabinet. Hopefully will last another 5 years.

Bob Grey
Renaissance 3


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad

On Thursday, May 17, 2018, 08:32, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Bob,

Just one, as I recall.  It'll become clear, of course, when you open up the pump. Wear gloves - yucchy job !
Cheers,
Craig SN68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Hi guys, I have a Reya Marine ZZ bilge pump that started leaking, caused by a torn membrane, luckily had a maintenance kit in my spares box, there were two separate membranes in the kit along with a big o ring and 2 valves.

The question I ask is do you use one or both membranes in the repair? They seem identical.

I couldn’t find any online reference guide or pump exploded view to answer what is probably an obvious answer “ use both “ but as I’m sure there are many Amel owners who have repaired their pump and know the answer.


Bob Grey
Amel 55 #25


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Membrane replacement on bilge pump.

Bob Grey
 

Hi craig, as a last resort, I looked in the equipment manuals supplied with the boat, and there is an exploded diagram showing the 2 diaphragms in the assembly so question answered. Use both, the one under the white paper goes on the air side.

Maude was super helpful and had the part in stock to replenish my spares cabinet. Hopefully will last another 5 years.

Bob Grey

On Thursday, May 17, 2018, 08:32, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 

Hi Bob,

Just one, as I recall.  It'll become clear, of course, when you open up the pump. Wear gloves - yucchy job !
Cheers,
Craig SN68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., <renaissanceiii@...> wrote :

Hi guys, I have a Reya Marine ZZ bilge pump that started leaking, caused by a torn membrane, luckily had a maintenance kit in my spares box, there were two separate membranes in the kit along with a big o ring and 2 valves.

The question I ask is do you use one or both membranes in the repair? They seem identical.

I couldn’t find any online reference guide or pump exploded view to answer what is probably an obvious answer “ use both “ but as I’m sure there are many Amel owners who have repaired their pump and know the answer.


Bob Grey
Amel 55 #25


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Travel on the US East Coast

eric freedman
 

Hi,

If you plan on coming down Long Island sound, please drop by.

The huntington Yacht club is a very nice place with guest moorings, showers, restaurant .

It is a very sheltered harbor and has all the marine chandleries and repairmen you will need.

 

Huntington is included in the Gold Coast referred to in the Great Gatsby, we also have the second largest home in N. America..

Huntington has many restaurants of all cuisines, and is a 1 hour train ride from Manhattan.

 

If you would like to visit , just drop me a note.

Fair Winds

Eric Freedman

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2018 8:17 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Travel on the US East Coast

 

 

We are in the process of planning a trip north from Ft. Lauderdale, Florida toward Maryland and possibly New Hampshire this summer.  We would be interested in learning of your favorite anchorages, marinas, or stops along the way.  Kent on Kristy has provided some good information, anything you could provide from a tidbit of information to a trip plan would be appreciated.

 

We look forward to hearing from you and thank you for sharing your past experiences and knowledge.

 

Mark & Debbie Mueller

Brass Ring  A54-68

Ft. Lauderdale

 


Re: Membrane replacement on bilge pump.

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Bob,
Just one, as I recall.  It'll become clear, of course, when you open up the pump. Wear gloves - yucchy job !
Cheers,
Craig SN68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., <renaissanceiii@...> wrote :

Hi guys, I have a Reya Marine ZZ bilge pump that started leaking, caused by a torn membrane, luckily had a maintenance kit in my spares box, there were two separate membranes in the kit along with a big o ring and 2 valves.

The question I ask is do you use one or both membranes in the repair? They seem identical.

I couldn’t find any online reference guide or pump exploded view to answer what is probably an obvious answer “ use both “ but as I’m sure there are many Amel owners who have repaired their pump and know the answer.


Bob Grey
Amel 55 #25


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: rig tuning

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Steve,
Yep, that's the booklet. Check out the "Folding Rule Method" of tensioning.
Sounds reasonable that the existing rig is loose due to stretch. That makes it pretty easy to tension back up - just count the turns you take on starboard and do the same number on port, assuming the mast is in column to begin with.
Craig SN68 Sangaris, Ft Pierce FL


---In amelyachtowners@..., <ryan.d.meador@...> wrote :

Steve, thanks for the data, that's very helpful.

Craig, thank you also for your advice.  That's a great rule of thumb.  I have The Complete Rigger's Apprentice, which discusses rig tuning a bit, but not as much as I'd hoped before I bought it.  I will definitely read the booklet you mentioned (which is perhaps this free PDF?).

I suspect the slight looseness in my rig is because the wire has stretched over time.  It was quite tight when I bought the boat, and I think the boat hadn't been sailed much by the previous owner after he replaced the standing rigging.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Wed, May 16, 2018 at 12:40 PM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Ryan,

I'd recommend Selden Mast's booklet Hints and Advice on Rig Tuning - you can download the pdf. They give a neat "folding rule" method (pg 32) of determining tension based on the fact that 2 meters of any diameter of 1X19 wire stretches 1mm for each 5% of breaking strength applied.

So, for example, if you want to tension your 12mm cap stays to 20% (Amel tight, maybe!) just tighten them until 2 meters stretches by 4 mm. That stretch will give you about 5600 pounds of tension, as the breaking strength is about 28000.

The Loos gauge doesn't handle wire over 10mm (actually 9.5 mm as it's rated for 3/8) and only goes up to 4500 pounds. That's why the results Nance and Underwood gave Steve Morrison in his post just show "very tight" for his 12mm stays.

After you get a sense for "very tight" you'll get to trust just feeling the stays and being able to judge if they're right. And use Joel's suggestion to go out, sail upwind in a good breeze and see if your lee shrouds are at all slack. If yes, they're way too loose. Oh yeah, and recheck after a while as the wire will stretch over time.

On the headstay there is a turnbuckle screw under the furler. ACMO just calls it "special" , as it's shorter than standard ones so the furler can be closer to the deck.

Have fun tuning!
Craig Briggs SN68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com, <ryan.d.meador@...> wrote :


Hi all,

I'm about to embark upon tuning up my rig, which I feel is a little loose, but I'd love some guidance on how to do that.  I've scoured the archives of this list and found many mentions of guides from both Joel Potter and Olivier Beaute, but I haven't been able to find them.  The best guide I've found thus far is this one.   Can anyone link me to the gold standard(s)?

Also, has anyone done the tuning in a more scientific way, with a Loos Gauge?  I'm struggling to understand via qualitative descriptions just how tight is tight.  I think a quantitative measurement would be very helpful.

And finally, how does one adjust the forestay tension?  I admittedly have not studied it in depth, but I didn't see a turnbuckle or any other obvious mechanism.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA



Membrane replacement on bilge pump.

Bob Grey
 

Hi guys, I have a Reya Marine ZZ bilge pump that started leaking, caused by a torn membrane, luckily had a maintenance kit in my spares box, there were two separate membranes in the kit along with a big o ring and 2 valves.

The question I ask is do you use one or both membranes in the repair? They seem identical.

I couldn’t find any online reference guide or pump exploded view to answer what is probably an obvious answer “ use both “ but as I’m sure there are many Amel owners who have repaired their pump and know the answer.


Bob Grey
Amel 55 #25


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Replacement Head/Shower Faucets for SM

Ryan Meador
 

Hi Dan,

I have not replaced my faucets, but I did do some related plumbing when I added a drinking water filter (my one and only violation of the "wait one year" rule).  My galley faucet, and I believe all the other taps/mixers, use 3/8" BSPT threads.  I was able to source adapters to 3/8" NPT (the standard in the US) from McMaster-Carr.  I hope that's helpful.

Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Tue, May 15, 2018 at 6:05 PM, danb.taylor@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Greetings all, I am a first time poster and proud Amel Owner. 


First off, I want to thank publicly Joel Potter and Bill Rouse. They went the extra effort in answering and guiding me through the section and buying process.  


Secondly, I have contacted numerous Amel owners that Joel and Bill have introduced, the feedback and information has reinforced my decision that Amel owners take care of their own. Thank you all for your support as I become familiar with my Amel.


Finally, I would like to replace the head faucets and handles.  Has anyone performed this and if so, what make/model/size did you use?


Thanks,

Dan

SV FlyGirl 

San Diego, CA

SM 116





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: rig tuning

Ryan Meador
 

Steve, thanks for the data, that's very helpful.

Craig, thank you also for your advice.  That's a great rule of thumb.  I have The Complete Rigger's Apprentice, which discusses rig tuning a bit, but not as much as I'd hoped before I bought it.  I will definitely read the booklet you mentioned (which is perhaps this free PDF?).

I suspect the slight looseness in my rig is because the wire has stretched over time.  It was quite tight when I bought the boat, and I think the boat hadn't been sailed much by the previous owner after he replaced the standing rigging.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Wed, May 16, 2018 at 12:40 PM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Ryan,

I'd recommend Selden Mast's booklet Hints and Advice on Rig Tuning - you can download the pdf. They give a neat "folding rule" method (pg 32) of determining tension based on the fact that 2 meters of any diameter of 1X19 wire stretches 1mm for each 5% of breaking strength applied.

So, for example, if you want to tension your 12mm cap stays to 20% (Amel tight, maybe!) just tighten them until 2 meters stretches by 4 mm. That stretch will give you about 5600 pounds of tension, as the breaking strength is about 28000.

The Loos gauge doesn't handle wire over 10mm (actually 9.5 mm as it's rated for 3/8) and only goes up to 4500 pounds. That's why the results Nance and Underwood gave Steve Morrison in his post just show "very tight" for his 12mm stays.

After you get a sense for "very tight" you'll get to trust just feeling the stays and being able to judge if they're right. And use Joel's suggestion to go out, sail upwind in a good breeze and see if your lee shrouds are at all slack. If yes, they're way too loose. Oh yeah, and recheck after a while as the wire will stretch over time.

On the headstay there is a turnbuckle screw under the furler. ACMO just calls it "special" , as it's shorter than standard ones so the furler can be closer to the deck.

Have fun tuning!
Craig Briggs SN68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, wrote :


Hi all,

I'm about to embark upon tuning up my rig, which I feel is a little loose, but I'd love some guidance on how to do that.  I've scoured the archives of this list and found many mentions of guides from both Joel Potter and Olivier Beaute, but I haven't been able to find them.  The best guide I've found thus far is this one.   Can anyone link me to the gold standard(s)?

Also, has anyone done the tuning in a more scientific way, with a Loos Gauge?  I'm struggling to understand via qualitative descriptions just how tight is tight.  I think a quantitative measurement would be very helpful.

And finally, how does one adjust the forestay tension?  I admittedly have not studied it in depth, but I didn't see a turnbuckle or any other obvious mechanism.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA



Re: rig tuning

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Ryan,

I'd recommend Selden Mast's booklet Hints and Advice on Rig Tuning - you can download the pdf. They give a neat "folding rule" method (pg 32) of determining tension based on the fact that 2 meters of any diameter of 1X19 wire stretches 1mm for each 5% of breaking strength applied.

So, for example, if you want to tension your 12mm cap stays to 20% (Amel tight, maybe!) just tighten them until 2 meters stretches by 4 mm. That stretch will give you about 5600 pounds of tension, as the breaking strength is about 28000.

The Loos gauge doesn't handle wire over 10mm (actually 9.5 mm as it's rated for 3/8) and only goes up to 4500 pounds. That's why the results Nance and Underwood gave Steve Morrison in his post just show "very tight" for his 12mm stays.

After you get a sense for "very tight" you'll get to trust just feeling the stays and being able to judge if they're right. And use Joel's suggestion to go out, sail upwind in a good breeze and see if your lee shrouds are at all slack. If yes, they're way too loose. Oh yeah, and recheck after a while as the wire will stretch over time.

On the headstay there is a turnbuckle screw under the furler. ACMO just calls it "special" , as it's shorter than standard ones so the furler can be closer to the deck.

Have fun tuning!
Craig Briggs SN68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., <ryan.d.meador@...> wrote :

Hi all,

I'm about to embark upon tuning up my rig, which I feel is a little loose, but I'd love some guidance on how to do that.  I've scoured the archives of this list and found many mentions of guides from both Joel Potter and Olivier Beaute, but I haven't been able to find them.  The best guide I've found thus far is this one.   Can anyone link me to the gold standard(s)?

Also, has anyone done the tuning in a more scientific way, with a Loos Gauge?  I'm struggling to understand via qualitative descriptions just how tight is tight.  I think a quantitative measurement would be very helpful.

And finally, how does one adjust the forestay tension?  I admittedly have not studied it in depth, but I didn't see a turnbuckle or any other obvious mechanism.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


Re: Raising the waterline aft on SM

Miles
 

Hi Gary,

 

When I was at the factory, I  also asked Jean-Jacque about the water line.  As best as I can recall, he said that it looked better and that the boat would not get an ugly yellow mustache if it motored though dirty water. 

 

Regards,

Miles

s/y Ladybug, sm216. Le Marin, Martinique


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rig tuning

Stephen Morrison <steve_morrison@...>
 

I had Nance and Underwood (Ft. Lauderdale) replace my rig the winter and this is a photo of the guide they followed for tensioning my SM380



Steve Morrison
SM380 TouRai
Hilton Head, SC

On May 16, 2018, at 10:15 AM, Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi all,

I'm about to embark upon tuning up my rig, which I feel is a little loose, but I'd love some guidance on how to do that.  I've scoured the archives of this list and found many mentions of guides from both Joel Potter and Olivier Beaute, but I haven't been able to find them.  The best guide I've found thus far is this one.   Can anyone link me to the gold standard(s)?

Also, has anyone done the tuning in a more scientific way, with a Loos Gauge?  I'm struggling to understand via qualitative descriptions just how tight is tight.  I think a quantitative measurement would be very helpful.

And finally, how does one adjust the forestay tension?  I admittedly have not studied it in depth, but I didn't see a turnbuckle or any other obvious mechanism.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


rig tuning

Ryan Meador
 

Hi all,

I'm about to embark upon tuning up my rig, which I feel is a little loose, but I'd love some guidance on how to do that.  I've scoured the archives of this list and found many mentions of guides from both Joel Potter and Olivier Beaute, but I haven't been able to find them.  The best guide I've found thus far is this one.   Can anyone link me to the gold standard(s)?

Also, has anyone done the tuning in a more scientific way, with a Loos Gauge?  I'm struggling to understand via qualitative descriptions just how tight is tight.  I think a quantitative measurement would be very helpful.

And finally, how does one adjust the forestay tension?  I admittedly have not studied it in depth, but I didn't see a turnbuckle or any other obvious mechanism.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Propshaft wearing ring

Craig Briggs
 

Kent,
Yep, as I said in my post I did try the Speedi Sleeves. Wasn't happy that you have to use two to get the width you need, so you're left with bit of a burr when you remove the lip of the 2nd sleeve that seemed it could snag the lip seals as you slide them in. They did not wear out, though, like the WOB, just faint surface lines that passed the "fingernail test".
No problem with the 17-4 recommended by the SKF engineer. It's corrosion resistant and can he hardened up to Rc 40. 316 is only about 20 Rc.
Craig



---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote :

The Speedi-Sleeves, Craig.
I also wonder if the 17-4 SS would corrode over a 2-3 year time period.  

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM243

Tried which, Kent? The SpeediSleeves or the 17-4 stainless WOB?
Craig


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raising the waterline aft on SM

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Gary,


 We raised the water line significantly when we applied Coppercoat eight years ago. We took the Coppercoat to the top of the orange stripe, left an inch or so above that and then added a new stripe.

  Only if this was pointed out to you would you notice the difference. If anything, it makes the hull look sleeker.

 Never again have we had to swim around the aft section to constantly clean and it reduces the area of hull to polish.

 We have made few changes to our Amel but in our book this  ( alongside the Coppercoat) is up there with the best.


 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Piraeus


From: amelyachtowners@... on behalf of 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]
Sent: 16 May 2018 12:11:11
To: amelyachtowners@...; William Maffei
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raising the waterline aft on SM
 


Gary,

I think that you are on the "right track," although 6" seems a little much to me. 

FYI, I saw a SM currently owned by Bill Maffei when prior to his ownership, the orange stripe was raised to a point where the bottom of the stripe location was on the line where the top had been. A 25mm gelcoat white stripe was applied under the new orange stripe. Maybe Bill will comment.

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

On Wed, May 16, 2018 at 12:50 AM, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

Hello all:


As the hull repairs progress on our hull #335 SM from the Hurricane Maria/Irma damage, the idea of raising the waterline aft is being considered.  


Every Amel I have ever seen, regardless of model, does not set level on their lines ( waterline level with the water).  They  all have the waterline higher, by a significant amount, forward.  I noted this when I toured the factory when our boat was being built (looking at the waterline on the boats in the test tank at Chantiers Amel) and asked Jean-Jacque Lemonier (the CEO of Amel at the time) about it.  He replied that it was just because the rigging wasn't in place and assured me that it would be level once the rigging was in place.  Either we mis-communicated or every Amel ever built was intentionally made with the waterline higher forward.  


My aft anti-fouling isn't high enough to be effect, especially under the overhang of the transom and I am always scrubbing soft growth off that area as well as the bootstirpe for about 10 ft forward.  


Bill Rouse raised his waterline slightly along the entire length of the boat by eliminating the white stripe below the original bootstripe.  What I am proposing is leaving the bootstripe where it is forward and raising it 6 inches aft with a continuous level-line between.  It would still be higher forward than aft, but less of a gradient than the original.


I am seeking info from anyone with inside knowledge of why Amel made the boats like this and any experience with raising the waterline aft (both cosmetically and in solving the scrubbing problem). 


Thanks, 


Gary S. Silver, original an d only owner

Amel SM 2000 #335

s/v Liahona

At Island Marine, Inc. yard at Puerto Del Rey Marina, Puerto Rico






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