Date   
Re: Rudder Anodes

calbyy@...
 

I confirm that rudder anodes are a standard fixture on Amel Maramu (at least on 1982 Maramu # 116); they are listed on Amel brochure & show on picture of Desirade VIII before refurbishing hull & rudder. 
Holes must have been plugged and will appear when rudder is sanded down to gel coat. 
I am not on boat but can give you an indication of size of anodes & bolts used on our boat later this week.
picture available too if wishing - send msge to my emaiil adress calbyy@..., I will reply.

christian alby - Désirade VIII Maramu 116 now in Canet 

Re: Rudder Anodes

sbmesasailor
 

Rick,

Always good to note the hull # and name of the vessel you are looking at.  Someone (especially Joel) may have historical information valuable to you in your decision to purchase.

Yes, the rudder should have anodes and they should be linked to your grounding system.

I'm afraid I don't have pictures of where they should be located but they should be about 4 inches in diameter and quite obvious.

If you search the Internet for boats for sale that have pictures of them hauled, I'm sure you will find pictures of where they are located.

Dennis Johns
Libertad
Maramu #121
Ensenada, MX

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Caleffi Mixing Valve

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Olivier,

Thanks for that. I was not aware that early model SMs had a foot pump. Of course a foot pump has an internal valve that would cause water to by-pass back to the tank. I thought all SMs had the hand pump. 

The SM in question is SM# 195.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550





On Sun, Jul 16, 2017 at 10:06 AM, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hello Bill(s),

I haven't followed up the post and I don't know what hull number has this problem.
However, freshwater pump cycling is sometimes due to a fake leak:
For the SMs which have a freshwater foot pump, the use of the foot pump is possible only when the valve under the galley sink is in the "foot pump position". But if this valve is slightly open (which can happen if you hit the valve's handle by mistake), the water pressure generated by the electric pump leaks through this valve back into the freshw ater tank, creating what I call a "fake leak". No puddle anywhere, the leaking water returns into the tank.
So, Bill Maffei (I guess he has the problem), check that this valve (if you have a freshwater foot pump) is closed.

Bill Kinney, with hull number 160, do you have a foot pump?

Olivier.


On Sunday, July 16, 2017 4:26 PM, "greatket ch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 
While trying to track down a problem like this, I installed a valve between the pressure gauge and the pump.  So flow is from tank, to pump, to valve, to pressure gauge, to distribution manifold.

This makes isolating the problem to the plumbing or the pump a matter of seconds: Close valve. Does pressure gauge show drop?  If yes, plumbing problem;  if no, pump problem.

If the pump is cycling frequently and is pumping a reasonable amount of water, once you have eliminated dripping taps, there are not many places it can leak in the boat you would not notice the puddle growing! (Don't forget to check the cockpit hose!)

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Boston, MA



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Batteries, combination parallel and serial

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

James,

Here are some specifics of what I would recommend:

For the house bank, I would install 12 Group 31's similar to the US-made DEKA DC31DT 12v Marine RV Group 31 Deep Cycle Battery 650CCA, 105 Amp/Hr  . This will cost you less than $2,100 and give you 630 Amp/Hrs at 24VDC. 

For comparison, 8 GP 27 AGMs will only give you about 460 Amp/Hrs, and you cannot depend on the AGMs to last much longer than a commonly available "Freedon" type Lead Acid batteries. Of course, this statement will cause someone somewhere to say, "my AGMs lasted yada, yada."

You can buy these DEKAs for about $175 and they will last you up to 3 years of regular away-from-dock use...longer with different use. DEKA also makes a high CCA (about 1,000 CCA) non-"Deep Cycle Battery" for the starter battery. DEKA is a normal mid-range battery.

I think basic is better. All SMs and the new 54s that I have seen came with the no longer available DELFI Freedom-type batteries similar to DEKA. The only new Amels that I have seen with AGMs were the 55.  I believe this was done because of the changed location to beneath the galley/salon floor. I helped an owner of a 55 change his batteries...they were 28 months old and failed.

Regarding the change of battery chargers from the original Dolphin Chargers, or any other 220VAC device that may have been added/changed, are you certain about two things:
  1. Earth and Neutral (Return) are NOT connected or bridged within the device
  2. Earth is NOT connected or bridged to the 24 Volt Negative within the device
Call me Monday.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550



Re: Caleffi Mixing Valve

william_maffei@...
 

All very good advice! Thank you so much! I think I have a D switch pressure adjustment that needs to be done as Bill R pointed out. Right now the switch goes on at 18psi and turns off at 35psi. Just to confirm what is the correct psi? 2bar translates to 29psi. Might even have the wrong D switch as the one purchased as an Amel rookie a few years back is a 30-50.

Bill maffei
SM #195
It's all Good

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Caleffi Mixing Valve

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Bill(s),

I haven't followed up the post and I don't know what hull number has this problem.
However, freshwater pump cycling is sometimes due to a fake leak:
For the SMs which have a freshwater foot pump, the use of the foot pump is possible only when the valve under the galley sink is in the "foot pump position". But if this valve is slightly open (which can happen if you hit the valve's handle by mistake), the water pressure generated by the electric pump leaks through this valve back into the freshwater tank, creating what I call a "fake leak". No puddle anywhere, the leaking water returns into the tank.
So, Bill Maffei (I guess he has the problem), check that this valve (if you have a freshwater foot pump) is closed.

Bill Kinney, with hull number 160, do you have a foot pump?

Olivier.


On Sunday, July 16, 2017 4:26 PM, "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
While trying to track down a problem like this, I installed a valve between the pressure gauge and the pump.  So flow is from tank, to pump, to valve, to pressure gauge, to distribution manifold.

This makes isolating the problem to the plumbing or the pump a matter of seconds: Close valve. Does pressure gauge show drop?  If yes, plumbing problem;  if no, pump problem.

If the pump is cycling frequently and is pumping a reasonable amount of water, once you have eliminated dripping taps, there are not many places it can leak in the boat you would not notice the puddle growing! (Don't forget to check the cockpit hose!)

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Boston, MA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wiring path Info

Ben and Gayle Super Maramu #347
 

Good going Kent.  The worse is over.  I only needed replace wire which was exposed to salt water.  If fact wire was good after I cut off about 18 inches.  All wire in lockers and to panels was good.   I would not pull new wire to panel unless cooper was corroded and brittle.

Ben Driver
S/V La Bella Vita
SM #347

On Jul 16, 2017, at 10:47 AM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks, Ben. I managed to get it done, with several hiccups along the way. In my case pulling the old wire out at the outboard end was the only way to get it out. I got in the dink and pulled with my weight. Once it started moving it wasn't too difficult, but would have been a lot easier with two people, I think.

The messenger line I had tied to the wire broke, but I was able to thread a 1/4" snake around and fish a line out through the hole in the rail.

I used the Ancor flat w 14 ga wires and it went in easily, without any lubricant, starting at the starboard light fixture and pulling through to the port bow locker.

Now the question is whether I need to replace the wire coming from the 24v panel to the bow locker. The copper wires are dis- colored, but flexible (not brittle).
Should I replace this cable too?

Kent
SM243
Kristy

Re: Batteries, combination parallel and serial

James Sterling
 

Thank you Bill and Alexandre.  Bill I will call you on Monday.

In advance of that, in answer to your question, I do not know what batteries were on the boat originally.  I don't know when Amel moved to AGM's but I thought it was in the 54' but probably wrong on that.  This boat is a 2004/ built late 2003.  This boat already had a Balmar voltage regulator on the 175 amp alternator.  It didn't work. I repaired all that, verified that the alternator was functioning properly with the regulator, added a Balmar Alternator temp sensor and plan on a Balmar battery temp sensor during the battery change.  The Balmar regulator is easy to program.  There is a Samlex charger and two Xantrex inverter/chargers that appear to have replaced the function of the Dolphins (still there).  The Xantrex are AGM capable, I don't know about the Samlex 2440 as yet.

The AGM's should be 1/2 inch wider than the current wet cells and just slightly taller, About the same length, looking at that as I decide which battery make is going in and verifying the size.  But yes Alexandre, my compartment is larger than yours, it's like Bill's, with a 12 battery rig.

James
s/v Longbow SM2K Redline #418

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wiring path Info

karkauai
 

Thanks, Ben. I managed to get it done, with several hiccups along the way. In my case pulling the old wire out at the outboard end was the only way to get it out. I got in the dink and pulled with my weight. Once it started moving it wasn't too difficult, but would have been a lot easier with two people, I think.

The messenger line I had tied to the wire broke, but I was able to thread a 1/4" snake around and fish a line out through the hole in the rail.

I used the Ancor flat w 14 ga wires and it went in easily, without any lubricant, starting at the starboard light fixture and pulling through to the port bow locker.

Now the question is whether I need to replace the wire coming from the 24v panel to the bow locker. The copper wires are dis- colored, but flexible (not brittle).
Should I replace this cable too?

Kent
SM243
Kristy

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Caleffi Mixing Valve

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Bill Kinney, Yes, but I think we are assuming that the cycling is because of a pressure drop. We should not forget the pressure switch could be the cause, though I doubt it. If the actual pressure was greater than 3 bar, the pressure switch is certainly misadjusted. It should be close to 2 bar.

Until Bill Maffei gets a good pressure valve, troubleshooting, especially remotely is fraught with error.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Sun, Jul 16, 2017 at 9:25 AM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

While trying to track down a problem like this, I installed a valve between the pressure gauge and the pump.  So flow is from tank, to pump, to valve, to pressure gauge, to distribution manifold.


This makes isolating the problem to the plumbing or the pump a matter of seconds: Close valve. Does pressure gauge show drop?  If yes, plumbing problem;  if no, pump problem.

If the pump is cycling frequently and is pumping a reasonable amount of water, once you have eliminated dripping taps, there are not many places it can leak in the boat you would not notice the puddle growing! (Don't forget to check the cockpit hose!)

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Boston, MA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Caleffi Mixing Valve

greatketch@...
 

While trying to track down a problem like this, I installed a valve between the pressure gauge and the pump.  So flow is from tank, to pump, to valve, to pressure gauge, to distribution manifold.

This makes isolating the problem to the plumbing or the pump a matter of seconds: Close valve. Does pressure gauge show drop?  If yes, plumbing problem;  if no, pump problem.

If the pump is cycling frequently and is pumping a reasonable amount of water, once you have eliminated dripping taps, there are not many places it can leak in the boat you would not notice the puddle growing! (Don't forget to check the cockpit hose!)

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Boston, MA

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wiring path Info

karkauai
 

I like that vacuum cleaner trick!

Kent 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wiring path Info

karkauai
 

Hi Eric
I managed to get it to move by getting in the dinghy and pulling from the light end.  But the 80lb test monofilament line I was pulling through got hung up and broke.  Awww Crap!!!!  Amazingly I was able to run a snake all the way around and grab the fishing line through the hole with a little hook.  I used the flat Ancor line as you suggested and it came through the pulpit easily.   I couldn't get the end to come out at the light, but starting at the light and pulling the end out through the locker was easy.

My backing plate area looks good, no swelling or rust noticeable.  I tried removing the bolts holding the stanchions  on the rail and was unable to budge them.  I can feel the bolts coming through the plates and into the locker through the glass (?or epoxy paint?)  How did you get yours to come out?

Kent
SM243
Kristy

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder Anodes

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Rick,

Let me try to help you with what I know, peppered with my opinions. 

I am 99% sure that rudder zincs we're on all Maramus. To be certain, you should ask Joel Potter jfpottercys"at"att.net.

A good condition and non-corrupted Maramu can be a great boat. However, a Maramu owned by either a non-caring owner, or an owner that was intent on changing the design of his Amel to match his previous boat, can be your worse nightmare. Almost all boats that have been "on the hard" for a year or more are neglected or abused boats. 

Trust me when I say that there are no "DIY recondition" Maramus worth buying. Try to find one that is currently being sailed regularly, owned by a caring owner, and has been kept in original condition. They are out there and they all will sell for about the average selling price for their age. Bargain hunting for an Amel will most certainly cause you grief. The same is mostly true in bargain hunting for a classic Porsche or Mercedes. 

Good luck on your search. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Jul 16, 2017 06:22, "reswinemar@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi All,

I am looking at a 1983 Amel Maramu and I don't see any rudder anodes or a place to attach them. Is this something that was not standard for early Maramus? Does anyone have any pics of where they should be located?

Thanks

Rick

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Batteries, combination parallel and serial

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning James,

To add to Bill comments (and I totally agree with the AGM comment regarding the engine alternator).

Here is a link that while help you determine is you have the setting for 8 +1 or 12 + 1 battery configuration.

I have the 8 + 1 and the dimensions are:
162 cm (or 64”) long by 39 cm (or 15.2 ) wide
http://nikimat.com/battery_compartment_space.html

If you have the 12 + 1 battery configuration, then the width should be considerably more, I estimate 60 cm (or 24”)

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Port de Plaisance de Gustavia, Saint Barthélémy, FWI



--------------------------------------------

On Sat, 7/15/17, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Batteries, combination parallel and serial
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Saturday, July 15, 2017, 7:52 PM


 









James,
Let me see if I can help
you.
Your boat
originally came with either 8 or 12 batteries which were
Group 31. Someone replaced the 31s with
27s???
Remember, 2
each 12VDC 110 amp/hour batteries connected in series,
produce 24VDC 110 amp/hour.
Whether it is 8 or 12, the battery
bank consisted of pairs which were connected in
series....Then each pair was wired parallel to the 24 Volt
Negative and Positive Busses.
If you have the original 175amp
Leece Neville Alternator, it will not charge the AGMs
correctly unless you add a smart charger to it, and this is
NOT a plug and play routine job. If you have the original
Dolphin battery chargers, I think your hull number is late
enough that your charges can be adjusted for AGM...but, if
not, this is another issue that will cause issues. You may
want to reconsider and use a battery bank that was planned
with the existing charging system.
You can call me Monday for more
information.
Best,
CW Bill RouseAdmiral,
Texas NavyCommander EmeritusAmel
School www.amelschool.com720
Winnie StGalveston Island, TX 77550instructor@... +1(832)
380-4970


On Sat, Jul 15, 2017 at
5:39 PM, jamessterling88@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:















 









I'm about to replace my group 27 wet cells with
group 31 AGM's.  My bank has 8 in parallel connected on
the negative by twos with copper plates.  Since the
AGM's are a little wider, jumpers will replace the
copper plates. There are 4 along side the front of the bank
(end to end) connected in serial.  In researching this in
the group, I see BeBe's bank which appears to have 8 in
series and 4 in parallel.  This confuses me a bit.  Can
anyone enlighten me?  I want to make sure I do this
right.

James
s/v Longbow SM2K Redline #418

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wiring path Info

Ben and Gayle Super Maramu #347
 

Kent 
I just last month did this job:  I replaced both port and starboard Agua Signal light fixtures and pulled new two conductor marine grade wire.  Pulling the wire was not easy.   To begin I intended to replace internal metal/plastic part of fixture as metal had corroded and plastic cracked. (Both lights had dead shorts). Unfortunately I  could not buy those parts.   Metal socket for bulb was available but not plastic part it attaches to.  I had to buy two new Aqua-signal light assemblies - €200.  No joy!  Installing fixtures was easy part.   

When I attempted to connect new fixtures I could see wire was corroded and not reliable.  I cut off bad ends  and peeled back insulation but could find no good cooper.  And wire end was becoming too short to reach fixture.   Time for new wire.

I pulled port side first.  I sewed a piece of small gauge rope to wire end.  This must be strong cord.  No cheap stuff.  Plus it must be sewed well and compact.  No lump that will jam in rail.  Then I took a small knife and from inside the port bow locker chipped away at fiberglass and silicone that was obstructing wire passageway.  Then I begin the push and pull.  If the wire and cord separate; that is, you pull the old wire out but no cord to pull in new wire, you can use a metal coat hanger to get the job done.  Straighten out the coat hanger and push it from top down into port locker then use hanger to pull cord you will use to pull wire.   Distance is short here so not that difficult.  

Now the fun part:  pulling starboard fixture wire.  Here it is absolutely critical you have a attached very well a strong cord to the old wire.  It must be stitched well and no lumps.  Then you go into port locker and begin pulling.  In the beginning, you will need some back and forth motion; that is, you pull a few inches into locker and then pull back out at starboard fixture.  Once it begins to move freely you can pull all the way through.  You will need pull very hard.  Hence the need for a good connection to cord.

I made it all the way to the opening in the port locker before the wire separated from the cord.  The worse part was over.  Since the cord was now in the rail above the port locker I was able to use a coat hanger with a hook to pull it all the way through.  

Also make sure the cable you pull is no larger than 16 AWG.  Round is better than flat, if you can find it.  I could not.  And make sure you get an extra long length of wire.  No joy to run out of cable when you're pulling and almost there.  I knew a guy this happened to.  And when complete you have extra cable length zip tied in port locker.  Next time outside end becomes corroded you can pull new cable out of rail pipe knowing you hav plenty.  

This job takes a lot of patience and tenacity.  Don't give up and good luck.


Ben

Ben and Gayle 
S/V La Bella Vita
SM #347

On Jul 15, 2017, at 8:53 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent,

Did you chip away the fiberglass away from under the stanchion in the locker. My backing plate  was expanded and totally rusted . It was preventing the wire from moving.

Once I removed the rusted backing plate the wire moved easily and I tied a thin piece of dyneema to the starboard cable once it was loose and was able to pull it through. Then a new wire.

My heart was in my throat as I pulled the line and then the cable through. On another boat I used a shop vac to suck a line through pulpit.

Good luck,

Eric

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2017 5:49 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wiring path Info

 

 

Hi Amelians
I hope everyone is having a good season, wherever you are.
I am replacing the bow navigation light fixtures, and need some advice. I can't budge the cable that goes from the port bow locker, up the pulpit stanchion,, around the upper pulpit tube, and down the starboard stanchion to the light. It won't move a mm from either end. To make matters more difficult, I'm single handed and can't work both ends at the same time.

When the cables are stripped back a ways, the inner wires are black, but not brittle. If I scrape them a bit with a knife, they are shiny copper under the black.

Unfortunately the two terminal wires to the fixtures were joined to the cables from forward by a non waterproof junction, and the cable from forward has the same issue. Inner wires darkened, but not brittle.

I think they should probably be replaced, but it's going to be a major project to get the starboard wire out for replacement. I've already taken Eric's advice and removed the port stanchion from the rail, still can't budge the cable.

Any advice? Either for how to remove the old wire or what the issues are for leaving the old wire in place and securing all connections in a waterproof manner.

Thanks in advance for any wisdom you can pass on.

Kent,
SM 243
Kristy
Currently St Michaels Maryland

Rudder Anodes

Rick Swinemar Jazz II Maramu #144
 

Hi All,

I am looking at a 1983 Amel Maramu and I don't see any rudder anodes or a place to attach them. Is this something that was not standard for early Maramus? Does anyone have any pics of where they should be located?

Thanks

Rick

Re: wiring path info

Gary Wells
 

I pulled a new line through last year. It took some serious digging to get all the old sealant out so that the wire would move. There was a lot of sealant both at the ends through the deck and well as where the wire emerged to the fixture.

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Caleffi Mixing Valve

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Bill,

If you have a pressure drop, you either have a water leak somewhere, or you have water bypassing the one-way valve back to the tank.

Bill Rouse

On Sat, Jul 15, 2017 at 9:22 PM, william_maffei@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

The fresh water system. One-way valve is brand new. I have traced the Caleffi valve and it goes to a manifold that leads to the expansion tank, fresh water flush (water maker) and then ultimately supplies the aft manifold leading to the hot water tank and various plumbing supply lines. There are no leaks that I can see. Also, on a side note I bypassed the reverse osmosis filtration system and there is still a pressure loss. So confused hahaha


Bill Maffei 
SM #195
It's all Good 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Caleffi Mixing Valve

william_maffei@...
 

The fresh water system. One-way valve is brand new. I have traced the Caleffi valve and it goes to a manifold that leads to the expansion tank, fresh water flush (water maker) and then ultimately supplies the aft manifold leading to the hot water tank and various plumbing supply lines. There are no leaks that I can see. Also, on a side note I bypassed the reverse osmosis filtration system and there is still a pressure loss. So confused hahaha

Bill Maffei 
SM #195
It's all Good