Date   
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Boom Boat Name Lettering Height?

VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

Hi Denise, Mark,

Congratulations!

Welcome to Amelet Owners Group.
We hope to see you on the Bay soon. Please contact me or Marina if you need any help.
Have a good sail home.

Vladimir 
SM #345
LIFE IS GOOD.
202 258 1916

On Jun 22, 2017 16:31, "Mcgovern.denise@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Hello,


This is my first post.  Mark and I have purchased SM #440 and are excited to make her our own.  Does anyone have the boom lettering height?  I would like to bring the name lettering with me to get her ready for her trip north.


Thanks,

Denise and Mark McGovern

S/V Cara

Martinique  (Soon to be Deale, MD)


Re: Super Maramu Hull #440 New Owners Introduction

rcavie <no_reply@...>
 

Mark and Denise. Congratulations!! I also share your opinions of Oliver and Bill.
I am a "newer" too, learning about my boat. I am very happy of the existence and help that means the Amel Owner Group. Extraordinary people who love the Amel sailboats and love to help other Amel owners.!  
I hope to meet you in Caribbean waters.
Buenos vientos!
Rafael & Taty
SM 2K246
Agapanthe
St Martin

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Super Maramu Hull #440 New Owners Introduction

Dan Carlson
 

Congratulations Mark and Denise,

Great endorsement.

Wish you all the best.

Dan and Lori Carlson
Sm387, sv BeBe



On Fri, Jun 23, 2017 at 8:39 AM, mfmcgovern@... [amelyachtowners]
 

Hello all,


My name is Mark McGovern and I would like to introduce myself as one of the new owners of Amel Super Maramu Hull #440.  My wife Denise McGovern is the co-owner.  The boat's current name is Tobago Cays III but she will soon be re-named Cara.  She is now in Le Marin, Martinique but I will be sailing her up to our home port in Deale, Maryland, USA early next month.


I would like to thank all of you for sharing your love, knowledge, and passion for these boats on this forum.  Both my wife and I have "lurked" here for several years and we can definitely say that having an active, sharing, online community was one of the many reasons we chose to buy an Amel.  That, and the blue floors, of course! ;-)


I would like to take this opportunity to give a special thanks to two active contributors to this community:  Bill Rouse and Olivier Beaute.  Without their assistance and guidance, it is highly unlikely that we would now be owners of this fantastic Super Maramu.


Anyone who has read these forums at all knows Bill Rouse.  This forum would not be nearly as useful to us all without his frequent and detailed input.  When my wife and I decided to get serious about purchasing our Amel earlier this year it was right after Bill posted on the SV Bebe blog that he was starting his Amel School (amelschool.com).  Denise immediately called Bill and signed us up for pre-purchase consulting as well as his 3 Day Course.  I can not say enough about the value of the services that we have received from Bill.  We have been paid back many times over and we've only just purchased our Super Maramu last week.  If you are in the process of looking for an Amel or have just purchased one, I strongly recommend that you call Bill.  

NOTE:  Bill is NOT a broker nor is he a surveyor.  You will still need to find one of each of those to help you find the Amel for you. 


That leaves Olivier Beaute of Atlantic Yacht Survey (atlanticyachtsurvey.com).  I have employed Olivier on two separate occasions to survey two different Super Maramu's. The first resulted in walking away from a purchase and the second in a purchase.  I am thrilled with both outcomes!  Olivier worked for Amel for ~19 years doing the customer handover and first year support of about 75% of the Super Maramu's made from Hull #70-ish right up until the last one Hull #479. If he surveys your Amel, chances are it is not the first time he has been on it!  And you don't just get a thorough, detailed inspection, and well written report with pictures with Olivier's survey services.  If you attend the survey (and I strongly advise that you do), you will get an education on the boat and it's systems from an outstanding teacher.  For my English speaking friends concerned about communication using a French speaking surveyor, you do not need to be at all concerned.  Olivier's English is excellent. Hire Olivier and you will not be disappointed regardless of the outcome of the survey.


So now thanks in large part to Bill and Olivier, my wife and I own an excellent Super Maramu.  We have a short punch list of mostly minor items to address from Olivier and we have the know-how, detailed instructions, and ongoing support from Bill on how to properly address them.  We could not be happier or feel more prepared!


Thanks again to all of you who contribute to this forum.  As my knowledge of my SM grows, I look forward to becoming a contributor to this great resource and not just a beneficiary of it.

Mark McGovern

SM #440 Tobago Cays III (soon to be SV Cara)

Currently in Le Marin, Martinique (soon to be Herrington Harbor North, Deale, MD)


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Forward water tank access

James Alton
 

Jean-Pierre Germain,

   I was actually amazed how easy the tank access is on my Maramu Sueno.  A few screws removed from the floor around the big table and it was moved in one pc.  Then just a few screws in the cabinet under the sink to remove a divider added by the previous owner and I had access to all of the tank ports.  The tank ports were easy to open.  On the advice of my broker, I cleaned, pumped out and fully dried the inside of the tank with towels before leaving the boat to eliminate new mildew growth in the clean tank.  I found quite a few flakes of gel coat that had come loose and settled to the bottom of the tank along with 29 years of gunk, but no blistering or anything scary.  What impressed me the most was the size of the tank..it’s huge!

   I hope that you are doing well and having a great time with 007.

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

On Jun 23, 2017, at 10:11 AM, Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Good write up. I was told by Olivier Beauté that the task takes a full day.  I'll have to do this in about 2 weeks

Arrgghhh 


On 23 Jun 2017, at 07:55, pwschofield@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 


The past two days we have had the joy of cleaning our water tank including the forward portion.  Gaining access to the forward port had its' challenges.  I know that Bill has a write up on how to removed the aft freezer however, our boat being a bit older was a little different.  These are the steps I took to remove the freezer.

 


1.  Remove all floor storage access/floor panels below the dinette.  This is to access the screws at the bottom of the kick plate

2.  Removed the freezer lid.  This just made it lighter to move, not sure if necessary. This also made it easier to remove the screws along the top of the freezer that attach it to the back of the cabinets

3.  Removed the lower bottle holder/panel in the liquor cabinet.  

4.  Removed two screws at the lower right corner as you are looking into the liquor cabinet.  These screws penetrate the back of the cabinet into the freezer box framework.

5.  Removed the 5 screws along the top of the fiberglass freezer box that attach it to the cabinet.

6.  Removed the 5 screws along the bottom of the kick plate on the fwd side of the freezer.  One of mine was hard to see as it was right in the corner next to the floor boards.  

7.  Remove the 3 screws that connect the AC kick panel to the freezer kick panel right where they meet.  These screws are accessed from the AC side and can be hard to get to.  I had to move the AC unit in order to gain access to them.  Also the bottom screw was covered over with fiberglass tabbing so I'm sure my forward portion of the tank has never been cleaned. 

8.  At this point, you can lift the freezer 8-10" and slide it forward enough to gain access to the water tank.  

 


Note, I didn't have to disconnect any electrical or hoses.  The whole freezer moved as a unit.  Also note that you do not need to remove any of the top screws that attach the kick plate to the freezer

 


I have added photos to the photo albums labeled "Trillium Aft Freezer Removal" for reference.  

 


Now I'm not going to go into detail as to how I cleaned the tanks as I could write a whole book on that.  

 


Anyway, good luck if you attempt it.  I know it can be a daunting task.  

 


Paul Schofield

SV Trillium

SM 215






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan Zinc and Outdated Marine Electronics Repairs

Mark Erdos
 

Hi Paul,

 

Thanks for sharing the Raymarine contact information. It’s always nice to have a list of good repair guys.

 

Regarding the Onan. It sounds as though the zinc separated from the brass bolt. If the zinc is just floating about inside the heat exchanger, then it is not doing much good in the way of preventing corrosion. Also, it could impair the flow of sea water and cause the genset to run hot. I would remove it.

 

There are removable caps on the ends of the heat exchanger. You should buy new seals for these ends if you plan to remove them. Once, the end caps are removed, you should be able to remove the zinc. You will probably have to remove the heat exchanger to work on the port side end. This is not very difficult to do. And, this would be a good time to properly clean out the heat exchanger at a local radiator shop.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising – St Croix, USVI

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of pstas2003
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2017 4:36 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan Zinc and Outdated Marine Electronics Repairs

 

 

Hello to all.

Recently, I went to change the zinc on the Onan Generator, and when I unbolted the plug, I found the old zinc corroded in place.  At first I thought I would drill it out and replace it with a new one. Then the thought occurred to me, “why not just wait until it dissolves on its own”?
Any thoughts or recommendations would be appreciated.

I also wanted to pass along some information.  

Recently I began to have trouble with an old Raymarine RL80C Chart Plotter.  I contacted Dan Gerhardt who had been recommended on this forum, but he doesn’t repair chart plotters.  He recommended I call Steve Senft at Jaytron in Florida (steve at marineelectronics dot com - 941-748-1941). After trouble shooting things on the phone with him, I ended up sending the unit to him.  Unfortunately, after spending a number of hours on it, it was determined it was too far gone.  However, he sold me a used unit he had in house for about the same cost as the repair would have been.  

Based on my experience, I can highly recommend him for those of you who have some old equipment that you may not be ready to replace just yet, and need repair assistance.  He spent a good deal of time with me on the phone and via email, and helped me get what I needed for a very fair price.  He also moved me up in line so I would have a unit back in my hands, in time to travel back to the boat this weekend.

I hope someone will find this information useful and thank you in advance for any responses regarding the Onan Zinc.

All the best,

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Saint Lucia

RitaKathryn.com

 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Head Issue on SM

Denis Elborn
 

Just checked and it is a Burkert part

Denis and Julie
Aventura
Amel 54 113


On 22 Jun 2017, at 4:52 pm, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I have a different probem with my aft head on Kristy. When at sea, the fill pump takes forever to start putting water into the bowl.  This is not a problem when at anchor, and it doesn't matter which tack I'm on when at sea.  There is a strainer with very fine mesh in the intake line that looks like an orange mushroom.  The stainless mesh is damaged and needs to be replaced, but it's acting like there is a one-way valve in the intake line that has failed.  Is there such a valve?  if so, where?  Any other ideas?

Does anyone know the manufacturer of the "orange mushroom" strainer in the intake line?  A source for the stainless strainer mesh?

I should say that on Kristy, (SM 243) there are separate thru-hulls for the seawater fill pumps located in the little "hallway" just inboard of the heads.  She does NOT have the long hoses from the sea chest/manifold in the engine room.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Currently St. Michaels, MD , USA for the hurricane season.




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Head Issue on SM

Denis Elborn
 

Hi all,

I checked the part on my boat and it has the same number on it 125657 but I can't see the manufacturer

Denis Aventura
54 113


On 22 Jun 2017, at 4:52 pm, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I have a different probem with my aft head on Kristy. When at sea, the fill pump takes forever to start putting water into the bowl.  This is not a problem when at anchor, and it doesn't matter which tack I'm on when at sea.  There is a strainer with very fine mesh in the intake line that looks like an orange mushroom.  The stainless mesh is damaged and needs to be replaced, but it's acting like there is a one-way valve in the intake line that has failed.  Is there such a valve?  if so, where?  Any other ideas?

Does anyone know the manufacturer of the "orange mushroom" strainer in the intake line?  A source for the stainless strainer mesh?

I should say that on Kristy, (SM 243) there are separate thru-hulls for the seawater fill pumps located in the little "hallway" just inboard of the heads.  She does NOT have the long hoses from the sea chest/manifold in the engine room.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Currently St. Michaels, MD , USA for the hurricane season.




Onan 11 kW mdkbn amel 54

Wolfgang Weber
 

Does the onan 11 kW splash water in the exhaust that you can see it from the hull outside.
Everything is working fine, temperatures are good.
No need to worry  ?
Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54 #162  Porto Komfort Greece





Re: Super Maramu Hull #440 New Owners Introduction

mfmcgovern@...
 

Thanks, Kent!  We will take you up on your offer once we have her up in the Chesapeake.  We have actually met Vladimir Sonsev and Marina of SM Life is Good.  They had her up on the hard at HHN where we keep our Bristol.  

Mark McGovern

SM #440 Tobago Cays III (soon to be SV Cara)

Currently in Le Marin, Martinique (soon to be Herrington Harbor North, Deale, MD)


Re: Onan Zinc and Outdated Marine Electronics Repairs

pstas2003 <no_reply@...>
 

Bill,

Thank you very much for your input and advice.  We are relatively new to this boat and I am trying to get all the routine maintenance boxes checked.  I’m not sure the last time this was replaced but I’ll get my drill out and take care of it.

Thank you again for taking the time to educate me.

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Saint Lucia

RitaKathryn.com

Re: Can 24V circuit be available during batteries replacement?

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

The Mastervolt manual for the 24v/100A Chargemaster does not specifically state that the chargers must be used with batteries always.  However, this is strongliy implied, as it reads that batteries should be connected "under normal circumstances."  You are correct that Mastervolt customer service needs to be consulted and a clarification must be obtained.

Where the UK guy went wrong is that he said there is no need to setup the charger for this mode.  Via DIP switches, the charger can be set to constant voltage instead of 3/step.  In this case, voltage will be a constant 26.5V.  I do not recommend using the DIP switches on a Mastervolt charger.

The better solution is to use your PC and the MasterAdjust software (supplied free by Mastervolt) to set the chargers to constant voltage instead of 3/step, and to adjust the voltage to, for example, 25 volts, constant.  This way you do not have the charger switching from Float to Abs to Bulk as you turn on or add or drop loads from the system.

You can also use a Mastervolt EasyView display to do the same adjustments described above.  Much better than using DIP switches.

Cheerio,


Peregrinus
SM2K Nr. 350 (2002)
High and dry, Marmaris, Turkey



---In amelyachtowners@..., <svgarulfo@...> wrote :


Thanks Bill,

So I asked MasterVolt about using my ChargeMaster chargers as power supply only and I various answers:

In France, the guy said no. He said the chargers would suffer from being used that way and that the batteries act as a buffer for current picks and troughs. He does not recommend it. He said the charging cycle wouldn't be suitable for loads either. 

Next, in the UK, the guy said yes, but do not exceed 70% of the charger current capacity. No need to setup the charger in a specific mode (re: Alexander's reply with respect to his own system). Without batteries, the charging cycle will play in 17mins and stabilise the voltage after that. 

My conclusions are:
I'll follow Bill's recommendation as it is the safe way in the absence of a definitive answer.

I don't think MasterVolt's answers are completely contradictory. I would probably be happy to do it to run lights, pumps and a fridge fir a limited period of time, but not the bow thruster!

I wish MasterVolt had a clear power supply mode like Alexander's system. 


Thanks

Fair winds



On Thu, 22 Jun 2017 at 14:40, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

The answer depends on the batteries and your charger. 

And if I were you, I would leave one pair of batteries connected while you change the remainder, then change that one pair last. 


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

   


On Jun 22, 2017 03:37, "svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi all,


Can the 24V circuit be available if the chargers are on, when batteries have been removed -for example to be replaced and things get delayed...?


Thanks

BR

Thomas


-- 

GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Cap d'Agde, France


--
GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Cap d'Agde, France

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Forward water tank access

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Thanks for the information Paul,

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Port de Gustavia, Saint Barthélémy, FWI



--------------------------------------------

On Fri, 6/23/17, pwschofield@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Forward water tank access
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Friday, June 23, 2017, 6:55 AM


 











The past two days we have had the
joy of cleaning our water
tank including the forward portion.  Gaining access to the
forward port
had its' challenges.  I know that Bill has a write up
on how to removed
the aft freezer however, our boat being a bit older was a
little
different.  These are the steps I took to remove the
freezer.

 

1.  Remove all floor storage
access/floor panels below the dinette.  This is to access
the screws
at the bottom of the kick plate

2.  Removed the freezer lid. 
This just made it lighter to move, not sure if
necessary. This also made
it easier to remove the screws along the top of the freezer
that attach it to
the back of the cabinets

3.  Removed the lower bottle
holder/panel in the liquor cabinet. 

4.  Removed two screws at the lower
right corner as you are looking into the liquor cabinet. 
These screws
penetrate the back of the cabinet into the freezer box
framework.

5.  Removed the 5 screws along the
top of the fiberglass freezer box that attach it to the
cabinet.

6.  Removed the 5 screws along the
bottom of the kick plate on the fwd side of the freezer. 
One of mine was
hard to see as it was right in the corner next to the floor
boards. 

7.  Remove the 3 screws that
connect
the AC kick panel to the freezer kick panel right where they
meet.  These
screws are accessed from the AC side and can be hard to get
to.  I had to
move the AC unit in order to gain access to them.  Also the
bottom screw
was covered over with fiberglass tabbing so I'm sure my
forward portion of the
tank has never been cleaned. 

8.  At this point, you can lift the
freezer 8-10" and slide it forward enough to gain
access to the water
tank. 

 

Note, I didn't have to
disconnect any
electrical or hoses.  The whole freezer moved as a unit. 
Also note
that you do not need to remove any of the top screws that
attach the kick plate
to the freezer

 

I have added photos to the photo
albums
labeled "Trillium Aft Freezer Removal" for
reference. 

 

Now I'm not going to go into
detail as to
how I cleaned the tanks as I could write a whole book on
that. 

 

Anyway, good luck if you attempt
it.  I know it can be a daunting task. 


 

Paul Schofield

SV Trillium

SM 215

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: unending flow

greatketch@...
 

Thanks for being polite... I'll be more straightforward, my first answer was just plain wrong... if I had read your post all the way to the end instead of jumping to a conclusion I (might) not have been so wrong!  But I think my theme was in the right direction...

On the aft head intake there is nothing else connected to the thru-hull hose, so a check valve isolating another water user isn't the issue.  The hose still gets air in there when you are sailing.  We have manual heads on our boat, and I notice the extra pumping to clear air when we are sailing.  Since this is a new experience for you, and you know your boat, I'll suggest that the pump is worn and having trouble priming itself when it starts with air.

I don't have enough experience with those electric toilet pumps to give you an idea what might be wrong. Hopefully somebody else here can...

Bill



---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote :

Hi Bill.  I don't think that's the issue.  I've had the boat 9 years and it's only been doing this the last month.  Also, as I said in my first post, there is a separate thru-hull for the intake just inboard of the head...no sea chest.

Kent

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
Panama cell: +507-61171896
USA cell: 828-234-6819


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Super Maramu Hull #440 New Owners Introduction

karkauai
 

Congratulations on your new to you Amel, Mark &Denise!  Welcome to the Group!  With Bill and Olivier as your mentors, you are well along the curve of learning your boat.
I am in St Michaels, MD upfitting for a Pacific cruise in a year or so.  Please contact me when you arrive in the Chesapeake.  We'll hoist a beer/wine/rum or two.
There are several other Amel's on the Chesapeake, most owners will be happy to help in any way we can.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM243
karkauai "at" yahoo "dot" com
828-234-6819

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: unending flow

karkauai
 

Hi Bill.  I don't think that's the issue.  I've had the boat 9 years and it's only been doing this the last month.  Also, as I said in my first post, there is a separate thru-hull for the intake just inboard of the head...no sea chest.

Kent

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
Panama cell: +507-61171896
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On Jun 22, 2017, at 7:29 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,


Your problem is not from a check valve, but from air that is entrained under the boat filling the seachest.

Like every design decision on a boat, the seachest has its good points--and its problems.  One of the issues is that when sailing, it fills with air. If you have ever put a video camera under your boat when sailing, you've seen a steady stream of bubbles flowing from bow to stern even at relatively modest speeds.  Every one of those bubbles that manages to go under the main intake thru-hull rises up and displaces water from the seachest.  After a fairly short time, the seachest is full of air.  

This means that any pump drawing out of the seachest, needs to clear a fairly significant volume of air before it can pump water.  I suspect this dry run time on every startup underway is part of the reason so many people have had such troublesomely short lifespans from impellers on their gensets.

Of course, this happens with every thru-hull, no matter if there is a seachest or not.  The issue with the seachest is that it can hold a LOT more air than a simple hose connection.

The previous owner of Harmonie installed a very small pump plumbed from the seachest manifold to to the cockpit scupper that can be used to clear this air before running either of the engines.

I think with the toilet flush pump, you'll just have to live with the delay, unless somebody has a solution I haven't thought of yet!

Bill Kinney
SM160 Harmonie
Highlands, NJ



---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

I have a different probem with my aft head on Kristy. When at sea, the fill pump takes forever to start putting water into the bowl.  This is not a problem when at anchor, and it doesn't matter which tack I'm on when at sea.  There is a strainer with very fine mesh in the intake line that looks like an orange mushroom.  The stainless mesh is damaged and needs to be replaced, but it's acting like there is a one-way valve in the intake line that has failed.  Is there such a valve?  if so, where?  Any other ideas?

Does anyone know the manufacturer of the "orange mushroom" strainer in the intake line?  A source for the stainless strainer mesh?

I should say that on Kristy, (SM 243) there are separate thru-hulls for the seawater fill pumps located in the little "hallway" just inboard of the heads.  She does NOT have the long hoses from the sea chest/manifold in the engine room.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Currently St. Michaels, MD, USA for the hurricane season.




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Forward water tank access

Jean-Pierre Germain <jgermain@...>
 

Good write up. I was told by Olivier Beauté that the task takes a full day.  I'll have to do this in about 2 weeks

Arrgghhh 


On 23 Jun 2017, at 07:55, pwschofield@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

The past two days we have had the joy of cleaning our water tank including the forward portion.  Gaining access to the forward port had its' challenges.  I know that Bill has a write up on how to removed the aft freezer however, our boat being a bit older was a little different.  These are the steps I took to remove the freezer.

 

1.  Remove all floor storage access/floor panels below the dinette.  This is to access the screws at the bottom of the kick plate

2.  Removed the freezer lid.  This just made it lighter to move, not sure if necessary. This also made it easier to remove the screws along the top of the freezer that attach it to the back of the cabinets

3.  Removed the lower bottle holder/panel in the liquor cabinet. 

4.  Removed two screws at the lower right corner as you are looking into the liquor cabinet.  These screws penetrate the back of the cabinet into the freezer box framework.

5.  Removed the 5 screws along the top of the fiberglass freezer box that attach it to the cabinet.

6.  Removed the 5 screws along the bottom of the kick plate on the fwd side of the freezer.  One of mine was hard to see as it was right in the corner next to the floor boards. 

7.  Remove the 3 screws that connect the AC kick panel to the freezer kick panel right where they meet.  These screws are accessed from the AC side and can be hard to get to.  I had to move the AC unit in order to gain access to them.  Also the bottom screw was covered over with fiberglass tabbing so I'm sure my forward portion of the tank has never been cleaned. 

8.  At this point, you can lift the freezer 8-10" and slide it forward enough to gain access to the water tank. 

 

Note, I didn't have to disconnect any electrical or hoses.  The whole freezer moved as a unit.  Also note that you do not need to remove any of the top screws that attach the kick plate to the freezer

 

I have added photos to the photo albums labeled "Trillium Aft Freezer Removal" for reference. 

 

Now I'm not going to go into detail as to how I cleaned the tanks as I could write a whole book on that. 

 

Anyway, good luck if you attempt it.  I know it can be a daunting task. 

 

Paul Schofield

SV Trillium

SM 215



Super Maramu Hull #440 New Owners Introduction

mfmcgovern@...
 

Hello all,


My name is Mark McGovern and I would like to introduce myself as one of the new owners of Amel Super Maramu Hull #440.  My wife Denise McGovern is the co-owner.  The boat's current name is Tobago Cays III but she will soon be re-named Cara.  She is now in Le Marin, Martinique but I will be sailing her up to our home port in Deale, Maryland, USA early next month.


I would like to thank all of you for sharing your love, knowledge, and passion for these boats on this forum.  Both my wife and I have "lurked" here for several years and we can definitely say that having an active, sharing, online community was one of the many reasons we chose to buy an Amel.  That, and the blue floors, of course! ;-)


I would like to take this opportunity to give a special thanks to two active contributors to this community:  Bill Rouse and Olivier Beaute.  Without their assistance and guidance, it is highly unlikely that we would now be owners of this fantastic Super Maramu.


Anyone who has read these forums at all knows Bill Rouse.  This forum would not be nearly as useful to us all without his frequent and detailed input.  When my wife and I decided to get serious about purchasing our Amel earlier this year it was right after Bill posted on the SV Bebe blog that he was starting his Amel School (amelschool.com).  Denise immediately called Bill and signed us up for pre-purchase consulting as well as his 3 Day Course.  I can not say enough about the value of the services that we have received from Bill.  We have been paid back many times over and we've only just purchased our Super Maramu last week.  If you are in the process of looking for an Amel or have just purchased one, I strongly recommend that you call Bill.  

NOTE:  Bill is NOT a broker nor is he a surveyor.  You will still need to find one of each of those to help you find the Amel for you. 


That leaves Olivier Beaute of Atlantic Yacht Survey (atlanticyachtsurvey.com).  I have employed Olivier on two separate occasions to survey two different Super Maramu's. The first resulted in walking away from a purchase and the second in a purchase.  I am thrilled with both outcomes!  Olivier worked for Amel for ~19 years doing the customer handover and first year support of about 75% of the Super Maramu's made from Hull #70-ish right up until the last one Hull #479. If he surveys your Amel, chances are it is not the first time he has been on it!  And you don't just get a thorough, detailed inspection, and well written report with pictures with Olivier's survey services.  If you attend the survey (and I strongly advise that you do), you will get an education on the boat and it's systems from an outstanding teacher.  For my English speaking friends concerned about communication using a French speaking surveyor, you do not need to be at all concerned.  Olivier's English is excellent. Hire Olivier and you will not be disappointed regardless of the outcome of the survey.


So now thanks in large part to Bill and Olivier, my wife and I own an excellent Super Maramu.  We have a short punch list of mostly minor items to address from Olivier and we have the know-how, detailed instructions, and ongoing support from Bill on how to properly address them.  We could not be happier or feel more prepared!


Thanks again to all of you who contribute to this forum.  As my knowledge of my SM grows, I look forward to becoming a contributor to this great resource and not just a beneficiary of it.

Mark McGovern

SM #440 Tobago Cays III (soon to be SV Cara)

Currently in Le Marin, Martinique (soon to be Herrington Harbor North, Deale, MD)


Re: Onan Zinc and Outdated Marine Electronics Repairs

greatketch@...
 

Paul,

Waiting for the zinc to fully dissolve has two problems.  

First, as the zinc becomes smaller and smaller it will protect the other metal parts of the system less and less--including the brass plug which will dissolve very quickly once the zinc is gone. When that happens it breaks off when you try to remove it, and you have a mess to clean up.

Second, it will not actually all dissolve.  That white crud you see in the plug is no longer zinc, but various insoluble zinc salts.

Anyplace that sells the zincs will also sell the plugs, they are not hard to find.

Finally, if the zinc is that far dissolved, you are waiting MUCH too long to change it.  Shorten up the maintenance schedule for it.  You should be changing it when the zinc rod has lost 1/3 to 1/2 of its original size.

Bill Kinney
SM160 Harmonie
Highlands, NJ



---In amelyachtowners@..., <no_reply@...> wrote :

Hello to all.

Recently, I went to change the zinc on the Onan Generator, and when I unbolted the plug, I found the old zinc corroded in place.  At first I thought I would drill it out and replace it with a new one. Then the thought occurred to me, “why not just wait until it dissolves on its own”?  

Any thoughts or recommendations would be appreciated.

I also wanted to pass along some information.  

Recently I began to have trouble with an old Raymarine RL80C Chart Plotter.  I contacted Dan Gerhardt who had been recommended on this forum, but he doesn’t repair chart plotters.  He recommended I call Steve Senft at Jaytron in Florida (steve at marineelectronics dot com - 941-748-1941). After trouble shooting things on the phone with him, I ended up sending the unit to him.  Unfortunately, after spending a number of hours on it, it was determined it was too far gone.  However, he sold me a used unit he had in house for about the same cost as the repair would have been.  

Based on my experience, I can highly recommend him for those of you who have some old equipment that you may not be ready to replace just yet, and need repair assistance.  He spent a good deal of time with me on the phone and via email, and helped me get what I needed for a very fair price.  He also moved me up in line so I would have a unit back in my hands, in time to travel back to the boat this weekend.

I hope someone will find this information useful and thank you in advance for any responses regarding the Onan Zinc.

All the best,

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Saint Lucia

RitaKathryn.com


Forward water tank access

pwschofield@...
 

The past two days we have had the joy of cleaning our water tank including the forward portion.  Gaining access to the forward port had its' challenges.  I know that Bill has a write up on how to removed the aft freezer however, our boat being a bit older was a little different.  These are the steps I took to remove the freezer.

 

1.  Remove all floor storage access/floor panels below the dinette.  This is to access the screws at the bottom of the kick plate

2.  Removed the freezer lid.  This just made it lighter to move, not sure if necessary. This also made it easier to remove the screws along the top of the freezer that attach it to the back of the cabinets

3.  Removed the lower bottle holder/panel in the liquor cabinet. 

4.  Removed two screws at the lower right corner as you are looking into the liquor cabinet.  These screws penetrate the back of the cabinet into the freezer box framework.

5.  Removed the 5 screws along the top of the fiberglass freezer box that attach it to the cabinet.

6.  Removed the 5 screws along the bottom of the kick plate on the fwd side of the freezer.  One of mine was hard to see as it was right in the corner next to the floor boards. 

7.  Remove the 3 screws that connect the AC kick panel to the freezer kick panel right where they meet.  These screws are accessed from the AC side and can be hard to get to.  I had to move the AC unit in order to gain access to them.  Also the bottom screw was covered over with fiberglass tabbing so I'm sure my forward portion of the tank has never been cleaned. 

8.  At this point, you can lift the freezer 8-10" and slide it forward enough to gain access to the water tank. 

 

Note, I didn't have to disconnect any electrical or hoses.  The whole freezer moved as a unit.  Also note that you do not need to remove any of the top screws that attach the kick plate to the freezer

 

I have added photos to the photo albums labeled "Trillium Aft Freezer Removal" for reference. 

 

Now I'm not going to go into detail as to how I cleaned the tanks as I could write a whole book on that. 

 

Anyway, good luck if you attempt it.  I know it can be a daunting task. 

 

Paul Schofield

SV Trillium

SM 215



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Can 24V circuit be available during batteries replacement?

Sv Garulfo
 


Thanks Bill,

So I asked MasterVolt about using my ChargeMaster chargers as power supply only and I various answers:

In France, the guy said no. He said the chargers would suffer from being used that way and that the batteries act as a buffer for current picks and troughs. He does not recommend it. He said the charging cycle wouldn't be suitable for loads either. 

Next, in the UK, the guy said yes, but do not exceed 70% of the charger current capacity. No need to setup the charger in a specific mode (re: Alexander's reply with respect to his own system). Without batteries, the charging cycle will play in 17mins and stabilise the voltage after that. 

My conclusions are:
I'll follow Bill's recommendation as it is the safe way in the absence of a definitive answer.

I don't think MasterVolt's answers are completely contradictory. I would probably be happy to do it to run lights, pumps and a fridge fir a limited period of time, but not the bow thruster!

I wish MasterVolt had a clear power supply mode like Alexander's system. 


Thanks

Fair winds



On Thu, 22 Jun 2017 at 14:40, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

The answer depends on the batteries and your charger. 

And if I were you, I would leave one pair of batteries connected while you change the remainder, then change that one pair last. 


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

   


On Jun 22, 2017 03:37, "svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi all,


Can the 24V circuit be available if the chargers are on, when batteries have been removed -for example to be replaced and things get delayed...?


Thanks

BR

Thomas


-- 

GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Cap d'Agde, France


--
GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Cap d'Agde, France