Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Alternator and Masse leak detector

Patrick McAneny
 

Since several boats are the same , in that they need to rev up to charge, maybe someone could chime in and say if this normal or not.
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Mon, Jun 18, 2018 4:20 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Alternator and Masse leak detector

 
Was the same on NIKIMAT SM2K #289 (and on a 1976 Aston Martin I owned).

Sincerely, Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Mon, 6/18/18, John Clark john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Alternator and Masse leak detector
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Monday, June 18, 2018, 11:30 AM


 









My SM#37,  with Volvo TMD22 requires a
rev for tach and 12v alternator to fire off.  Not sure if
it is right but it has been stable for last year.
John Clark SV Annie 
SM37enroute to St. Lucia.
On Mon, Jun
18, 2018, 9:46 AM greatketch@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:















 










Nick,
There
are no "partial failures" of diodes.  As solid
state devices they either work--or not.  When they fail
they fail "open" and block current flow in both
directions.
It
is possible, I guess, you could have a short circuit inside
the alternator somewhere, but the chances of it working at
all would then be pretty close to zero.
Bill
KinneySM160,
HarmonieAnnapolis,
MD, USA

---In amelyachtowners@...,
wrote
:

Hello
fellow Amelians,
I have had a great passage
to the Azores from Antigua (14.5
days). 
Some months ago I asked
 the forum about exciting the 24v alternator and was
advised by Bill to check the relay and excitation circuit
 which I did. However I still have the same problem that
the alternator needs 1500 rpm to "kick in". Once
kicked in I can throttle back idle and still
charge.
No big deal right.....well
yes and no I am beginning to think that maybe one of the
diodes is defective and that I might have a small current
drain through the alternator. Does anyone know if a diode
failure is compatible with the general history I have
described?
Why am I thinking along
these lines? I had to return to the UK for two weeks, so
when I left the boat last week I  checked the
"Masse" leak indicator that came up with a leak on
the -ve side. Unfortunately I had to catch my plane so I
only turned off the master red handles for the batteries.
Thinking that the batteries would be
isolated.
Now back in the UK, unable
to check the boat I am worrying. If I am correct, the red
handles do not isolate the chargers or the 24v alternator
from the battery bank. Thus if there is a diode failure on
the 24v alternator the batteries could be leaking despite
the red handles being turned off. This could be bad for my
anodes and prop for example not to mention the battery bank.
Does anyone know if the red handles isolate the 24v
Alternator or not. I can not remember 100% but I believe not
as when I was working on the engine one time I turned off
the handles only to discover the cables to all be still
live. 
To summarise what my
questions are:1. Is the excitation
history, i.e. reving to 1500 etc on the 24v alternator
compatible with partial diode failure?2.
Do the red handles shut off
everything? 3. Could a -ve leak as
detected by the masse be compatible with diode
failure?
NickAmelia
(amel 54 hull 019)








Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Alternator and Masse leak detector

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Was the same on NIKIMAT SM2K #289 (and on a 1976 Aston Martin I owned).

Sincerely, Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Mon, 6/18/18, John Clark john.biohead@gmail.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Alternator and Masse leak detector
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, June 18, 2018, 11:30 AM


 









My SM#37,  with Volvo TMD22 requires a
rev for tach and 12v alternator to fire off.  Not sure if
it is right but it has been stable for last year.
John Clark SV Annie 
SM37enroute to St. Lucia.
On Mon, Jun
18, 2018, 9:46 AM greatketch@yahoo.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:















 










Nick,
There
are no "partial failures" of diodes.  As solid
state devices they either work--or not.  When they fail
they fail "open" and block current flow in both
directions.
It
is possible, I guess, you could have a short circuit inside
the alternator somewhere, but the chances of it working at
all would then be pretty close to zero.
Bill
KinneySM160,
HarmonieAnnapolis,
MD, USA

---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com,
<kwzy6vgkpvtfohjddjsrotobzwf2pjeafjwalhur@...> wrote
:

Hello
fellow Amelians,
I have had a great passage
to the Azores from Antigua (14.5
days). 
Some months ago I asked
 the forum about exciting the 24v alternator and was
advised by Bill to check the relay and excitation circuit
 which I did. However I still have the same problem that
the alternator needs 1500 rpm to "kick in". Once
kicked in I can throttle back idle and still
charge.
No big deal right.....well
yes and no I am beginning to think that maybe one of the
diodes is defective and that I might have a small current
drain through the alternator. Does anyone know if a diode
failure is compatible with the general history I have
described?
Why am I thinking along
these lines? I had to return to the UK for two weeks, so
when I left the boat last week I  checked the
"Masse" leak indicator that came up with a leak on
the -ve side. Unfortunately I had to catch my plane so I
only turned off the master red handles for the batteries.
Thinking that the batteries would be
isolated.
Now back in the UK, unable
to check the boat I am worrying. If I am correct, the red
handles do not isolate the chargers or the 24v alternator
from the battery bank. Thus if there is a diode failure on
the 24v alternator the batteries could be leaking despite
the red handles being turned off. This could be bad for my
anodes and prop for example not to mention the battery bank.
Does anyone know if the red handles isolate the 24v
Alternator or not. I can not remember 100% but I believe not
as when I was working on the engine one time I turned off
the handles only to discover the cables to all be still
live. 
To summarise what my
questions are:1. Is the excitation
history, i.e. reving to 1500 etc on the 24v alternator
compatible with partial diode failure?2.
Do the red handles shut off
everything? 3. Could a -ve leak as
detected by the masse be compatible with diode
failure?
NickAmelia
(amel 54 hull 019)


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Alternator and Masse leak detector

Alan Leslie
 

Hi Nick,

Another possibility (and I completely forgot about this until I was reminded by a friend) is the little red light at the bottom left of the 24VDC panel.
If your 24VDC alternator has the standard automotive type internal regulator then this lamp is what provides the excitation current.
If everything is working normally, when you turn the key on, this lamp should light. When you start the engine and the alternator is spinning, this lamp should go out.
Have someone watch this lamp when you turn the key on and then start the engine. If the lamp doesn't light at startup this could be your problem...blown lamp or bad connection somewhere.

BTW the reason I forgot about it is that our little red lamp is disconnected as we have an external 3 stage regulator connected to the 175A Leece Neville 24VDC alternator (the internal regulator is disconnected) in order to charge (and more importantly not overcharge) the house batteries in a proper manner.

Good Luck
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Alternator and Masse leak detector

Patrick McAneny
 

I also have to rev it up to get it generating on my Volvo TMD22a , not sure if that is normal or not .
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: John Clark john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Mon, Jun 18, 2018 12:54 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Alternator and Masse leak detector

 
My SM#37,  with Volvo TMD22 requires a rev for tach and 12v alternator to fire off.  Not sure if it is right but it has been stable for last year.

John Clark 
SV Annie  SM37
enroute to St. Lucia.

On Mon, Jun 18, 2018, 9:46 AM greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Nick,

There are no "partial failures" of diodes.  As solid state devices they either work--or not.  When they fail they fail "open" and block current flow in both directions.

It is possible, I guess, you could have a short circuit inside the alternator somewhere, but the chances of it working at all would then be pretty close to zero.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Hello fellow Amelians,

I have had a great passage to the Azores from Antigua (14.5 days). 

Some months ago I asked  the forum about exciting the 24v alternator and was advised by Bill to check the relay and excitation circuit  which I did. However I still have the same problem that the alternator needs 1500 rpm to "kick in". Once kicked in I can throttle back idle and still charge.

No big deal right.....well yes and no I am beginning to think that maybe one of the diodes is defective and that I might have a small current drain through the alternator. Does anyone know if a diode failure is compatible with the general history I have described?

Why am I thinking along these lines? I had to return to the UK for two weeks, so when I left the boat last week I  checked the "Masse" leak indicator that came up with a leak on the -ve side. Unfortunately I had to catch my plane so I only turned off the master red handles for the batteries. Thinking that the batteries would be isolated.

Now back in the UK, unable to check the boat I am worrying. If I am correct, the red handles do not isolate the chargers or the 24v alternator from the battery bank. Thus if there is a diode failure on the 24v alternator the batteries could be leaking despite the red handles being turned off. This could be bad for my anodes and prop for example not to mention the battery bank. Does anyone know if the red handles isolate the 24v Alternator or not. I can not remember 100% but I believe not as when I was working on the engine one time I turned off the handles only to discover the cables to all be still live. 

To summarise what my questions are:
1. Is the excitation history, i.e. reving to 1500 etc on the 24v alternator compatible with partial diode failure?
2. Do the red handles shut off everything? 
3. Could a -ve leak as detected by the masse be compatible with diode failure?

Nick
Amelia (amel 54 hull 019)




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Capacitors for 160 AC Dessalator

Mohammad Shirloo
 

When we first got on board that is what we did. We dialed back the pressure to remain at 150l/hr or less. However, when we had to replace the black box controller on the HP pump, I had several in depth discussions with Martin at Dessalator to better understand the process and the systems. Martin stated that it is perfectly safe to run the HP pump on the high side of the green of the HP pressure gauge just shy of the redline. He said you could run the system in this configuration 24x7x365 without any issues or harm to the system.
 
So we have been doing this for the past 2 years. The output of the water maker will depend, to a large extent, on the water temperature. The higher the temperature the higher the output. Ours ranges between 145 to 175 l/hr. Martin mentioned that the rating of 150l/hr was placed on the system to make sure that it would produce that amount in the most adverse conditions.
 
Most of my information is from Martin and have not done much research on the matter. However, I have found Martin to be very knowledgeable.
 
Respectfully;
Mohammad Shirloo
323-633-2222 Cell
310-644-0908 Fax
 



From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2018 11:32 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Capacitors for 160 AC Dessalator

 

Gary & Mohammad,

The Dessalator D150, later named the D160 went through lots of changes, with the membranes being about the only part that remainded the about the same in all models. I said about the same because when Dessalator made the D150, each of the two 25x40 membranes was rated at 75 liters per hour at pressure. Filmtech changed manufacturing of this membrane, increasing output to 80 liters and Dessalator renamed the D150 to D160. 

BTW, some owners produce more than the rated numbers. You should not. Dial back the pressure knob so that output is correct for your membranes. Too much output and/or too much pressure will shorten membrane life. 


Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Sun, Jun 17, 2018, 23:39 amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

Mohammad & Aty:  


I don't know if we have the same motor for the HP Pump on the 160 l/hr Dessalator pump but I have noted your two different capacitors as opposed to the two 30 uf capacitors on mine.  Two 30 uf capacitors wired in PARALLEL yield a total capacitance of 60 uf.  

A 70 uf and a 180 uf capacitor wired in SERIES yields a capacitance of 50.4 uf, whereas if they were wired in PARALLEL that would yield a capacitance of 250 uf.  I am guessing yours are wired in series.

I am wondering if perhaps the manufacturer changed how these are wired (economics of capacitors supply or they were changed as a repair along the way or perhaps some more obscure reason??).  The run capacitor sizing is a matter of trial and error in most cases to yield the greatest efficiency of the motor (i.e. the lowest running temperature).  If you have nothing better to do, I would be intereste d if you could verify how yours are wired.

All the best, 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
Puerto Rico



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Capacitors for 160 AC Dessalator

 

Gary & Mohammad,

The Dessalator D150, later named the D160 went through lots of changes, with the membranes being about the only part that remainded the about the same in all models. I said about the same because when Dessalator made the D150, each of the two 25x40 membranes was rated at 75 liters per hour at pressure. Filmtech changed manufacturing of this membrane, increasing output to 80 liters and Dessalator renamed the D150 to D160. 

BTW, some owners produce more than the rated numbers. You should not. Dial back the pressure knob so that output is correct for your membranes. Too much output and/or too much pressure will shorten membrane life. 


Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Sun, Jun 17, 2018, 23:39 amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

Mohammad & Aty:  


I don't know if we have the same motor for the HP Pump on the 160 l/hr Dessalator pump but I have noted your two different capacitors as opposed to the two 30 uf capacitors on mine.  Two 30 uf capacitors wired in PARALLEL yield a total capacitance of 60 uf.  

A 70 uf and a 180 uf capacitor wired in SERIES yields a capacitance of 50.4 uf, whereas if they were wired in PARALLEL that would yield a capacitance of 250 uf.  I am guessing yours are wired in series.

I am wondering if perhaps the manufacturer changed how these are wired (economics of capacitors supply or they were changed as a repair along the way or perhaps some more obscure reason??).  The run capacitor sizing is a matter of trial and error in most cases to yield the greatest efficiency of the motor (i.e. the lowest running temperature).  If you have nothing better to do, I would be intereste d if you could verify how yours are wired.

All the best, 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
Puerto Rico



How to flush Volvo D3-110i-C

ya_fohi
 

Hi,

I'm looking for some advice on how to flush the raw water system on my Volvo D3-110i-C. I know it has debris/salt etc. build up because I can feel it crunching in the rubber hose when I squeeze it, and also the engine which normally runs a 78°C at 1250rpm is now running at 83°C or higher.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Cheers,
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amrl 54 #98



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Alternator and Masse leak detector

John Clark
 

My SM#37,  with Volvo TMD22 requires a rev for tach and 12v alternator to fire off.  Not sure if it is right but it has been stable for last year.

John Clark 
SV Annie  SM37
enroute to St. Lucia.

On Mon, Jun 18, 2018, 9:46 AM greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 


Nick,

There are no "partial failures" of diodes.  As solid state devices they either work--or not.  When they fail they fail "open" and block current flow in both directions.

It is possible, I guess, you could have a short circuit inside the alternator somewhere, but the chances of it working at all would then be pretty close to zero.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


---In amelyachtowners@..., <kwzy6vgkpvtfohjddjsrotobzwf2pjeafjwalhur@...> wrote :

Hello fellow Amelians,


I have had a great passage to the Azores from Antigua (14.5 days). 


Some months ago I asked  the forum about exciting the 24v alternator and was advised by Bill to check the relay and excitation circuit  which I did. However I still have the same problem that the alternator needs 1500 rpm to "kick in". Once kicked in I can throttle back idle and still charge.


No big deal right.....well yes and no I am beginning to think that maybe one of the diodes is defective and that I might have a small current drain through the alternator. Does anyone know if a diode failure is compatible with the general history I have described?


Why am I thinking along these lines? I had to return to the UK for two weeks, so when I left the boat last week I  checked the "Masse" leak indicator that came up with a leak on the -ve side. Unfortunately I had to catch my plane so I only turned off the master red handles for the batteries. Thinking that the batteries would be isolated.


Now back in the UK, unable to check the boat I am worrying. If I am correct, the red handles do not isolate the chargers or the 24v alternator from the battery bank. Thus if there is a diode failure on the 24v alternator the batteries could be leaking despite the red handles being turned off. This could be bad for my anodes and prop for example not to mention the battery bank. Does anyone know if the red handles isolate the 24v Alternator or not. I can not remember 100% but I believe not as when I was working on the engine one time I turned off the handles only to discover the cables to all be still live. 


To summarise what my questions are:

1. Is the excitation history, i.e. reving to 1500 etc on the 24v alternator compatible with partial diode failure?

2. Do the red handles shut off everything? 

3. Could a -ve leak as detected by the masse be compatible with diode failure?


Nick

Amelia (amel 54 hull 019)





Shore Side Circuit Breaker Tripping When Plugging in Boat

pacificcool@...
 

I have a 220 volt Super Maramu from 1995 (#141) which is currently in Fort Lauderdale waiting to be sold.  I moved to a new dock yesterday and when I plugged into the 50 Amp shore power outlet, the circuit breaker in the house tripped.  At the previous dock (where i had stayed only two days), there was only 115volts with a 15 Amp circuit breaker.  Before plugging in to the first house, I turned off all 220 volt circuit breakers in the boat except the battery charger which can accept any voltage per the manual (it's a Victron 80 Amp charger).  The GFI tripped and would not reset.  I suspect  something happened there that affected my boat.  Maybe a fuse blew or a hidden breaker tripped, but I cannot find it.  


Does anyone know if there is a fuse or hidden breaker that could be tripped?  Or can anyone suggest a fix?


Best Regards

Bill Shaproski

S/V Pacific Cool


Re: Alternator and Masse leak detector

greatketch@...
 


Nick,

There are no "partial failures" of diodes.  As solid state devices they either work--or not.  When they fail they fail "open" and block current flow in both directions.

It is possible, I guess, you could have a short circuit inside the alternator somewhere, but the chances of it working at all would then be pretty close to zero.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


---In amelyachtowners@..., <kwzy6vgkpvtfohjddjsrotobzwf2pjeafjwalhur@...> wrote :

Hello fellow Amelians,


I have had a great passage to the Azores from Antigua (14.5 days). 


Some months ago I asked  the forum about exciting the 24v alternator and was advised by Bill to check the relay and excitation circuit  which I did. However I still have the same problem that the alternator needs 1500 rpm to "kick in". Once kicked in I can throttle back idle and still charge.


No big deal right.....well yes and no I am beginning to think that maybe one of the diodes is defective and that I might have a small current drain through the alternator. Does anyone know if a diode failure is compatible with the general history I have described?


Why am I thinking along these lines? I had to return to the UK for two weeks, so when I left the boat last week I  checked the "Masse" leak indicator that came up with a leak on the -ve side. Unfortunately I had to catch my plane so I only turned off the master red handles for the batteries. Thinking that the batteries would be isolated.


Now back in the UK, unable to check the boat I am worrying. If I am correct, the red handles do not isolate the chargers or the 24v alternator from the battery bank. Thus if there is a diode failure on the 24v alternator the batteries could be leaking despite the red handles being turned off. This could be bad for my anodes and prop for example not to mention the battery bank. Does anyone know if the red handles isolate the 24v Alternator or not. I can not remember 100% but I believe not as when I was working on the engine one time I turned off the handles only to discover the cables to all be still live. 


To summarise what my questions are:

1. Is the excitation history, i.e. reving to 1500 etc on the 24v alternator compatible with partial diode failure?

2. Do the red handles shut off everything? 

3. Could a -ve leak as detected by the masse be compatible with diode failure?


Nick

Amelia (amel 54 hull 019)





Re: Capacitors for 160 AC Dessalator

rossirossix4
 

For the record the electric motor for our pump (2004 SM #429) is a Leroy Somer LS100L P T  No 509059 P J004 2.20kW 0.94COS 15.00A   
Bob


Re: Alternator and Masse leak detector

Alan Leslie
 

Hi Nick,
Have you checked the alternator belt tension? If the belts aren't tight enough they could slip at low revs and therefore the alt won't charge.
It could also be a blown rectifier in the alternator...you need an auto electrician to check that.
The red handles only disconnect the batteries from the users on the boat. The alternator output is wired directly to the batteries.
If you have a rectifier failure in the alternator it is very unlikely that would lead to the Masse -ve light being activated. 
Diodes generally fail open circuit not short circuit.
The -ve masse light indicates that you have a connection somewhere between house bank -ve and the bonding system (ground). The most likely cause of that is something that is 24VDC powered and also has metal parts in touch with saltwater. The macerator pumps in the heads are the usual culprit, but beware of AC devices such as laptop chargers which may internally have -ve connected to ground and that will feed back through the system if you have the original Calpeda A/C pump...that is where the AC ground is connected to the bonding system.
In summary i don't think your alternator issues are associated with your -ve masse issue.
Good luck
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437,  the Blue Lagoon, Fiji


Alternator and Masse leak detector

kwzy6vgkpvtfohjddjsrotobzwf2pjeafjwalhur@...
 

Hello fellow Amelians,


I have had a great passage to the Azores from Antigua (14.5 days). 


Some months ago I asked  the forum about exciting the 24v alternator and was advised by Bill to check the relay and excitation circuit  which I did. However I still have the same problem that the alternator needs 1500 rpm to "kick in". Once kicked in I can throttle back idle and still charge.


No big deal right.....well yes and no I am beginning to think that maybe one of the diodes is defective and that I might have a small current drain through the alternator. Does anyone know if a diode failure is compatible with the general history I have described?


Why am I thinking along these lines? I had to return to the UK for two weeks, so when I left the boat last week I  checked the "Masse" leak indicator that came up with a leak on the -ve side. Unfortunately I had to catch my plane so I only turned off the master red handles for the batteries. Thinking that the batteries would be isolated.


Now back in the UK, unable to check the boat I am worrying. If I am correct, the red handles do not isolate the chargers or the 24v alternator from the battery bank. Thus if there is a diode failure on the 24v alternator the batteries could be leaking despite the red handles being turned off. This could be bad for my anodes and prop for example not to mention the battery bank. Does anyone know if the red handles isolate the 24v Alternator or not. I can not remember 100% but I believe not as when I was working on the engine one time I turned off the handles only to discover the cables to all be still live. 


To summarise what my questions are:

1. Is the excitation history, i.e. reving to 1500 etc on the 24v alternator compatible with partial diode failure?

2. Do the red handles shut off everything? 

3. Could a -ve leak as detected by the masse be compatible with diode failure?


Nick

Amelia (amel 54 hull 019)





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Capacitors for 160 AC Dessalator

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi Gary;
 
I do not believe that the reason for the two capacitors is to achieve a different capacitance level by wiring in series or parallel. I believe they serve different functions. One is a start capacitor which provides the initial large instantaneous current required to start the motor and the other is a run capacitor which dictates the direction of rotation.
 
If any one goes out, the motor will not function correctly. The capacitors on our HP pump are connected to a black box controller by Lafert. My information comes directly from the main technical support person at Dessalator Martin Dee Jong. He is extremely knowledgeable with Dessalator products and am sure can help you further if you need it. His number is             +33 607346511. He is typically in France and is very good at responding to calls.
 
Respectfully;
Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099
 


From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2018 9:39 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Capacitors for 160 AC Dessalator

 

Mohammad & Aty:  


I don't know if we have the same motor for the HP Pump on the 160 l/hr Dessalator pump but I have noted your two different capacitors as opposed to the two 30 uf capacitors on mine.  Two 30 uf capacitors wired in PARALLEL yield a total capacitance of 60 uf.  

A 70 uf and a 180 uf capacitor wired in SERIES yields a capacitance of 50.4 uf, whereas if they were wired in PARALLEL that would yield a capacitance of 250 uf.  I am guessing yours are wired in series.

I am wondering if perhaps the manufacturer changed how these are wired (economics of capacitors supply or they were changed as a repair along the way or perhaps some more obscure reason??).  The run capacitor sizing is a matter of trial and error in most cases to yield the greatest efficiency of the motor (i.e. the lowest running temperature).  If you have nothing better to do, I would be interested if you could verify how yours are wired.

All the best, 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
Puerto Rico



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Capacitors for 160 AC Dessalator

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Mohammad & Aty:  

I don't know if we have the same motor for the HP Pump on the 160 l/hr Dessalator pump but I have noted your two different capacitors as opposed to the two 30 uf capacitors on mine.  Two 30 uf capacitors wired in PARALLEL yield a total capacitance of 60 uf.  

A 70 uf and a 180 uf capacitor wired in SERIES yields a capacitance of 50.4 uf, whereas if they were wired in PARALLEL that would yield a capacitance of 250 uf.  I am guessing yours are wired in series.

I am wondering if perhaps the manufacturer changed how these are wired (economics of capacitors supply or they were changed as a repair along the way or perhaps some more obscure reason??).  The run capacitor sizing is a matter of trial and error in most cases to yield the greatest efficiency of the motor (i.e. the lowest running temperature).  If you have nothing better to do, I would be interested if you could verify how yours are wired.

All the best, 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
Puerto Rico



Re: Capacitors for 160 AC Dessalator

rossirossix4
 

Thanks Gary!  Great source for the part.  After posting I had done a bit of examination to see that the stud was just for mounting.  This may explain why our Dessalator seems to still be working OK. I don't have an IR gun but it is high on my list!  If we can, we will make the temp measurements.
Bob and Suzanne, SM429 KAIMI


Re: Older Maramu steering system pics

Steve Leeds
 

Are you just servicing the steering rack or replacing the cables?

Steve
Yacht MACCABEE
1985 Sharki 121


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Old B&G electronics for sale

Paul Cooper <paul.cooper74@...>
 

Thanks for your reply, Paul, and sorry for my delay in responding but I have been travelling.

Just one question.  I heard that the Raymarine instruments and the B & G instruments need different diameter holes.  Did you need to install a board of some kind to mount the new instruments at the helm?

On Sunday, June 10, 2018, 11:57:39 AM MDT, osterberg.paul.l@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:


 

Paul

The depth and speed transducer was installed by the yard, but I have done it before with a high quality hole saw it should be no problem. The mast was down so easy to pull out the old unit and at the same time pull a mono filament line all the way to pull the new cable. we then pulled all the three transducer cables to the instruments above the pentry space, but if I did it again I would probably buy an ITC5 box and connect all transducers at the base of the mast and only pull a NMEA backbone cable to the instruments, one cable instead of three. The it was very easy install and connect the instruments. >>The new electronics for the Autopilot needs the new rudder indicator transducer, I kept the old one for the old system and installed the new one it was a little bit tricky, I can send you a picture if you want se how I did it.
Else it was rather easy installation after ripping out and rearrange most cables in the space were the rotary drive is. >>I had problem to find space for both the old and the new electronics for the autopilot.
the EV1 unit we placed in the cupboard beside the starboard sofa.

The cost for the Instrument with thre displays was ca 1300 USD at Annapolis boat show last Oktober. we bought from THE GPS store and we did not need to pay any tax.

We the added three more instruments. close hauled, and two I 70 displays one in the cockpit for navigation data to be able to utilize the full screen for charts on the chart plotter and one i 70 display at the nav table.
the instruments are just  north of 400  each, the close hauled we found a good price at Defender.com.
the full cost including the new AP electronics was ca 5000$

PAUL on sykerpa.com SM#259


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Capacitors for 160 AC Dessalator

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hello Bob;
 
We have the 150 l/h dessalator. The HP pump motor is the LAFERT AMME 100L BA4 50HZ 230V 3.0HP 220-240V.
 
The two capacitors are:
 
  1. 70 microF +/-5%, AC 400V AC 450V 50-60 Hz. Ours is made by ICAR Italy
  2. 180 microF -0+20% 220 Vac 40-60 HZ made by FACON Italy.
If you have the same motor, this information may be of use. Of course the brand of the capacitor would be irrelevant. One important item to keep in mind, is the resistor that connects the two poles of the capacitor, I believe for discharge after power down. When we changed ours, we unsoldered the resistor from the existing capacitor and re-soldered to the new.
 
Hope this helps. Let me know if you need any additional information. We are not on board but have detailed pictures to reference.
 
Respectfully;
Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099
 


From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2018 11:36 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Capacitors for 160 AC Dessalator

 

Does anyone have a part number or source for the 2 large black capacitors on the high pressure pump for the Dessalator 160?  They both have a stud for a nut on one end to fasten (and provide electrical contact) to the pump bracket. Ours still work but are falling apart physically-- I've got them held together with cable ties and need to replace them at some point.


We've searched the site, but couldn't really find the answer.


Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI SM 429

Cagliari, Sardenga 


Re: 2001 Amel SM (Norfolk) HIN 1045353

Brent Cameron
 

This is going back a bit but I've been looking at all of the old posts trying to gather information on the SM's to help with my search and help me narrow down what I actually want.  From what I've been able to tell Bill, the Amel 12 Letter serial number system for the Super Maramu's works like this:

First three letters are the company (AML)
Letters 4&5 are the Model (SM for Super Maramu)
Letters 6,7 & 8 are the Hull Number (387 in your case)
Letter 9 is the Month as you say (where A=January, B=February.... L=December)
Letter 10 is the last digit of the year it was built (in your case 2002)
and then the last two letters (are the model year - in your case 2003)

I've looked at dozens of SM's and they all fit that pattern excepting two very early ones (a 1992 and a 1990 Annie) where the patterns make no sense at all (and aren't 12 digits) which make me think that there might be a transcription error like the HIN above in this post which doesn't make sense either as you suggest.  Those boats are early enough that it is possible they didn't use this scheme (I don't have an earlier data point that would suggest they didn't) but in 2001, the scheme you pointed out was definitely in effect. 

I've also noticed that the point the model year jumps ahead of the build year is somewhere between April and September (with September  being the most prevalent but a few examples of July/April thrown in to confuse things).  Anyway, the more I dig, the more I discover that they are all great boats (with a few notorious examples) and it's just a bit of trivia that maybe Olivier can explain to us.  

Brent Cameron
Future Super Maramu Owner

19001 - 19020 of 59197