Date   

Winter berth between Livorno and Roma

Jose Alegria
 

Dear Amellians
I need advice from a marina between Livorno and Rome to leave MERIT during the winter period. Ideally a marina that has a nautical community during the winter period.

Kindest regards

José Alegria
A55#003MERIT
josealegr@...
Mobile: + 351 91 866 30 37



Re: SM 2000 head backflow and holding tank leak -second attempt

Mike Ondra
 

That should read “Diamond Hole Saw”!!!!!!

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Mike Ondra via groups.io
Sent: Friday, July 31, 2020 2:22 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] SM 2000 head backflow and holding tank leak -second attempt

 

Finally got to the aft head with the riser repair. The copper here was also corroded away with the riser pipe inside the tank completely separated. (Any leak between the tank and the head pump would drain virtually the entire contents of the holding tank.) Again replaced the piping from the head pump all the way to discharge about an inch below the top of holding tank with one piece of 1.25” Trident VAC XHD Sanitation Hose. Straightened the last 18” of the hose over heat so it would stand upright.

Boring out the 1.75” hole was made significantly easier with the implementation of the Diamond Hose Saw (from Amazon) which cut through both fiberglass and copper fairly easily (15-20 minutes). The length of the bore at this inlet is almost 3” due to the fiberglass build-up at this location. The bore is about ¼” oversize allowing a putty epoxy seal around the pipe where it enters the tank and then the gap was filled from inside the tank from above (3/4” PVC pipe with funnel) with FG resin leaving a puddle around the pipe.  So far so good.

Future replacement of the Sanitation Hose would require cutting and coupling just below the holding tank, or complete removal and replacement.

 

Mike Ondra

Aletes SM#240 Rock Hall, MD

 

 


Re: A54 holding tank drain seasock

Mark Erdos
 

Hi Soraya,

At the first sign the valve becomes sticky, we use vegetable oil to lube the
valve.

With the holding tank empty and the valve closed, remove the deck cap and
pour about a 100ml of vegetable oil into the tank. Let it sit for a little
while. Then, work the valve back and forth. This will last for a few months
before it needs to be done again.

(I am assuming the 54 has caps on the deck for pump-out like the 53)


With best regards,

Mark

Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io]
On Behalf Of Sv Garulfo
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2020 6:51 PM
To: Amel Yacht owners Group
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] A54 holding tank drain seasock

Hello,

Any routine maintenance tips for the holding tanks drain seacocks?
Ours are starting to grip.

Thanks

Soraya
Garulfo
A54-122
Tahiti


SM 2000 head backflow and holding tank leak -second attempt

Mike Ondra
 

Finally got to the aft head with the riser repair. The copper here was also corroded away with the riser pipe inside the tank completely separated. (Any leak between the tank and the head pump would drain virtually the entire contents of the holding tank.) Again replaced the piping from the head pump all the way to discharge about an inch below the top of holding tank with one piece of 1.25” Trident VAC XHD Sanitation Hose. Straightened the last 18” of the hose over heat so it would stand upright.

Boring out the 1.75” hole was made significantly easier with the implementation of the Diamond Hose Saw (from Amazon) which cut through both fiberglass and copper fairly easily (15-20 minutes). The length of the bore at this inlet is almost 3” due to the fiberglass build-up at this location. The bore is about ¼” oversize allowing a putty epoxy seal around the pipe where it enters the tank and then the gap was filled from inside the tank from above (3/4” PVC pipe with funnel) with FG resin leaving a puddle around the pipe.  So far so good.

Future replacement of the Sanitation Hose would require cutting and coupling just below the holding tank, or complete removal and replacement.

 

Mike Ondra

Aletes SM#240 Rock Hall, MD

 

 


Re: A54 holding tank drain seasock

Mark & Debbie Mueller
 

From the outside of the boat while sitting in your dinghy you may be able to use a grease gun and put grease on the exterior of the valve then operate it from the inside to provide some lubrication.  This procedure helped on the forward head of our A54.  When we bought the boat the aft head valve was hard to rotate and became more difficult over time.  I had a small socket welded to a handle that I found at a hardware store in Ft. Lauderdale, see photo.  This allowed me to get a ratchet wrench with an extension on the valve to help rotate the handle.  Eventually even this procedure no longer worked which resulted in the replacement of this valve earlier this year.  A link to the valve I used which has the proper threads and includes a grease fitting to lube the valve occasionally is listed below; 1 ¼” BSPP thread.  What I found upon removal of the valve was a sliver of wood that had wedged between the valve ball and the side of the valve.  The sliver of wood looked very similar to the wood that the tank support platform.  The bore of the valve had very little residue of any kind on it.

 

On a boat project scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the most difficult this was a 10+.  The workspace is extremely limited with 98% of the job being done with your left hand and head and left shoulder being jammed into the space behind the head as much as possible.  My wife did take some very unflattering pictures of me working on this project which I am not going to include.  I did leave the head installed so I had a place to rest my upper body while trying to work back in this incredibly cramped poorly engineered space.  If you are faced with replacing the aft holding tank valve on an A54 sail the boat to an Amel service center somewhere in the world and pay them to do it – this final statement is not meant to be humorous.  

https://www.groco.net/products/valves-seacocks/inline-valves/ibv-series-bspp-thread

 

--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54


Re: Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.

Jim Anderson
 

Eric,
Please confirm me for 1 unit, per Bill's knowledge.
Bill, thank you.
Jim
SM384 Sirena Azul
Seattle


Re: GIANNESCHI. Freshwaterpump will not stop pumping?

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hi Porter, 

We installed a Marco 12E. All functions of the system are integrated into the pump itself. 

Well built!

Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM 007, Opua, NZ


On 31/07/2020, at 9:53 AM, Porter McRoberts via groups.io <portermcroberts@...> wrote:

Arthur we have the same occurrences. I corrosion X and slightly change the cutoffs and were good for about 6 months. But I’d like to know a long term solution!

Porter A54-152. IBIS. 



Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 
Www.fouribis.net

On Jul 30, 2020, at 5:32 PM, Arthur Sundqvist <arthur@...> wrote:

We have the Idromini Acb Waterpump from Gianneschi. Sometimes it will not stop, the pump continues. We have to stop it manually on the pressure switch....
I have pumped up to 2 bar and cleaned the pressure switch. When the motor or Onan generator starts vibrating the pump works well.
What fault could it be. Is it time to change the pump?
Renovate something?
Kindest regards and FAIR WINDS
Arthur Sundqvist
SM435, VISTA


Re: GIANNESCHI. Freshwaterpump will not stop pumping?

Arthur Sundqvist
 

Thanks for answer Porter!
I corrosion X and slightly change the cutoffs?? What does it mean practically. What needs to be done?
Regards Arthur


30 juli 2020 kl. 11:53 skrev Porter McRoberts via groups.io <portermcroberts@...>:

Arthur we have the same occurrences. I corrosion X and slightly change the cutoffs and were good for about 6 months. But I’d like to know a long term solution!

Porter A54-152. IBIS. 



Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Jul 30, 2020, at 5:32 PM, Arthur Sundqvist <arthur@...> wrote:corrosion
We have the Idromini Acb Waterpump from Gianneschi. Sometimes it will not stop, the pump continues. We have to stop it manually on the pressure switch....
I have pumped up to 2 bar and cleaned the pressure switch. When the motor or Onan generator starts vibrating the pump works well.
What fault could it be. Is it time to change the pump?
Renovate something?
Kindest regards and FAIR WINDS
Arthur Sundqvist
SM435, VISTA


Re: GIANNESCHI. Freshwaterpump will not stop pumping?

 

You can buy a new Sware D Pressure switch almost anywhere in the world, but adjusting it can be a challenge. Google for instructions to adjust...there may be a few good videos.

That said, the problem can likely be solved by disassembling the pressure switch and cleaning debris that will be on the pressure diaphragm. See the photo. It took me at least a dozen cotton swabs.
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 4:53 PM Porter McRoberts via groups.io <portermcroberts=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Arthur we have the same occurrences. I corrosion X and slightly change the cutoffs and were good for about 6 months. But I’d like to know a long term solution!

Porter A54-152. IBIS. 



Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Jul 30, 2020, at 5:32 PM, Arthur Sundqvist <arthur@...> wrote:

We have the Idromini Acb Waterpump from Gianneschi. Sometimes it will not stop, the pump continues. We have to stop it manually on the pressure switch....
I have pumped up to 2 bar and cleaned the pressure switch. When the motor or Onan generator starts vibrating the pump works well.
What fault could it be. Is it time to change the pump?
Renovate something?
Kindest regards and FAIR WINDS
Arthur Sundqvist
SM435, VISTA


Re: GIANNESCHI. Freshwaterpump will not stop pumping?

Porter McRoberts
 

Arthur we have the same occurrences. I corrosion X and slightly change the cutoffs and were good for about 6 months. But I’d like to know a long term solution!

Porter A54-152. IBIS. 



Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 
Www.fouribis.net

On Jul 30, 2020, at 5:32 PM, Arthur Sundqvist <arthur@...> wrote:

We have the Idromini Acb Waterpump from Gianneschi. Sometimes it will not stop, the pump continues. We have to stop it manually on the pressure switch....
I have pumped up to 2 bar and cleaned the pressure switch. When the motor or Onan generator starts vibrating the pump works well.
What fault could it be. Is it time to change the pump?
Renovate something?
Kindest regards and FAIR WINDS
Arthur Sundqvist
SM435, VISTA


GIANNESCHI. Freshwaterpump will not stop pumping?

Arthur Sundqvist
 

We have the Idromini Acb Waterpump from Gianneschi. Sometimes it will not stop, the pump continues. We have to stop it manually on the pressure switch....
I have pumped up to 2 bar and cleaned the pressure switch. When the motor or Onan generator starts vibrating the pump works well.
What fault could it be. Is it time to change the pump?
Renovate something?
Kindest regards and FAIR WINDS
Arthur Sundqvist
SM435, VISTA


Re: Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.

 

Jim, 

If original SM 384 has normally closed, part number 309-0295-01

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

On Thu, Jul 30, 2020, 10:14 AM Jim Anderson <capt.anderson@...> wrote:

Eric,

I won’t be aboard to tell witch model I have until 04 August. If ordering before then, then please cancel my order for 1 unit. Otherwise I’ll reply further on Wednesday. Thanks for doing this for the group,

 

Jim

SM384 Sirena Azul

Seattle


Re: Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.

Jim Anderson
 

Eric,

I won’t be aboard to tell witch model I have until 04 August. If ordering before then, then please cancel my order for 1 unit. Otherwise I’ll reply further on Wednesday. Thanks for doing this for the group,

 

Jim

SM384 Sirena Azul

Seattle


Re: Breaker Panel Label Back Lights

Arno Luijten
 

Hi David,

Because of your remark I just remembered something about this. When I repopulated the PCBs with new LEDs I also replaced the resistors.
When you buy this package from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/microtivity-IL142-Diffused-Blue-Resistors/dp/B0059H5Z5O/ref=sr_1_24?dchild=1&keywords=blue+led+5mm&qid=1596107237&sr=8-24
you get the LEDs with a resistor. If I remember correctly this was the actual package I bought. You will need three packages and have a lot of spares after installation. I replaced the existing resistors with the new ones. It will increase the voltage output for the regulator compared to no resistor and make it more stable.

Apparently these LEDs take 20 mA each. So two in series for every switch is still 20 mA. Multiply this by the number of panel switches which I think are 34. So, 34 x 20 = 680 mA. So at 500 mA they will receive about 15 mA.
I don't remember exactly but I think I was happy with this from brightness point of view. So I kept it at that as this will improve the life-span of the LEDs even more.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Fuel tank vent fitting ?

Ian Park
 

On my Santorin the return fuel pipe from the injectors comes off the engine and back to the tank. On top of the tank is the air vent pipe that is visible in the passage way heading out to the scuppers where there is a vent hole in the side of the hull - to stop back pressure in the filler pipe when re-fuelling. 

Ian
Ocean Hobo SN96


On 30 Jul 2020, at 04:38, Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@...> wrote:



[Edited Message Follows]

Hi Tom and Kirstin,

I'm not on my boat so can't be sure, but is it the fuel return line from the injectors on each engine?

That was good fortune to dodge the hurricane !

Cheers

Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Breaker Panel Label Back Lights

David Crisp
 

Thanks Arno,
Excellent information and advice, makes sense to me.  I have only a very moderate knowledge of electronics and was wondering why the LEDs failed in the first place and how to prevent a re-occurrence. Judging by the colouration of one PCB it looks like the resistors had at some time got pretty hot, presumably when the voltage got high..
--
David Crisp
SV Wilna Grace
Amel 54 #58


Re: Fuel tank vent fitting ?

Alan Leslie
 
Edited

Hi Tom and Kirstin,

I'm not on my boat so can't be sure, but is it the fuel return line from the injectors on each engine?

That was good fortune to dodge the hurricane !

Cheers

Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Rub rail purchase

Patrick McAneny
 

Eric, It is made from EPDM, the same material that most all exterior products of this type is made from. I am sure that your insert is made from the same material. I will receive a 6 inch sample to confirm that the insert is an exact match of the original. Craig is going down to pick up a sample piece,as he is only an hour away. Once we determine that the insert is an exact reproduction, if you need to confirm this for yourself ,I will forward my sample on to you. Let me know if you would like to be included in the group buy.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans 


Re: Rub rail purchase

eric freedman
 

Is this a semi rigid material or a rubbery material?

Fair Winds,

Eric

On July 29, 2020 at 8:55 PM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi Craig,
I will be happy to order the rail insert once i can confirm it is the one that is on Kimberlite.
I only need a very small piece. One foot would be fine.
My email is Kimberlite@...
Fair Winds
Eric
sm 376

On July 29, 2020 at 6:23 PM "Craig & Katherine Briggs via groups.io" <sangaris@...> wrote:

Hi Eric,
Not to step on a reply from Pat, but today I visited the company, Techno Rubber to go over "our" order. I took my entire starboard side insert and they had Pat's sample. While there, we had a conference call with Pat with the sample inserts sitting in the office so we could discuss them. They have their extrusion dies made by an outside supplier, which is being done now, based on the sample Pat sent them. (These are not pre-defined "models" but custom machined steel dies.)  The die should be back next week and they will run off a few feet, sending some to Pat and I'll pick one up, too (I am close to the shop). After Pat and I check them for any needed fine tuning, we'll give the OK for full length runs.

I was very favorably impressed - this is a small but substantial and very credible family owned operation with three extrusion lines of about 100' each making all sorts of similar extruded products.

There is no question of having the "correct model" - as noted it is custom (no "model #") and Pat and I will check it out. Of course, we can send you a foot or so. If you can commit it would be great so we can share the die cost.  Let us know, please.

ANY OTHER SM OR SN OWNERS WANTING TO REPLACE THEIR (scuzzy, UV damaged, oxidized and ugly) RUB RAIL INSERTS - NOW'S THE TIME!  Let Pat (or me) know, please.

The new ones will be white, (not the original Amel baby diaper brown) - the same as the standard extruded rub rails on pilings and docks that you see everywhere.

Cheers, Craig 
SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL

 


 


 


Re: Rub rail purchase

eric freedman
 

Pat,
once i can match up the sample i will be happy to order the insert.
You can use my FedEx number to get the sample to me quickly.
Kimberlite@...
Eric

On July 29, 2020 at 7:13 PM "Patrick McAneny via groups.io" <sailw32@...> wrote:

Eric, I can’t add much to Craig’s reply, Craig and I will both trail fit a sample on our boats,to confirm the fit. The die is being made directly from a cross section that we cut from our rub rail insert.If you or any owner would like to join the group buy, please contact me so that I can add you to the list. I expect to place the order in roughly ten days.

Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans