Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel Deck Painting

James Alton
 

Steve and Liz,

   I like the solution you chose using the Awlgrip and will eventually paint my decks with the same brand of paint since it has served me well over the years.  In sanding off the gel coat,  it is important to realize that the thickness of the gelcoat may vary a lot.  I am pretty sure that the original tan gelcoat was hand brushed into the mold on my boat.  The thick and thin areas created by brushing are obvious on my deck.  This means that if you attempt to sand off all traces of a particular colour that you will end up with a surface that is not flat.   Damaged areas can be filled/built back up as needed.  Awlgrip is much more durable than any single part paint though it is a lot more work to apply.   I would only add the caution that while the fine Awlgrip additive works pretty well, to avoid the temptation to use the medium or coarse additives.  While the decks will seem initially more nonskid with the medium or the coarse, I have found that the paint will eventually chip off of the tips of the plastic additive leaving bumps of plastic that are quite slippery when wet.  Another solution to creating nonskid in Awlgrip is to add Colodial silica and roll the coating on. This creates a mixture that cannot chip off and leave slippery bits.  The texture can be varied to suit by adjusting the amount of additive and the rolling technique,  I would suggest doing samples if this method is used.  The Colloidal will act as a flattening agent which reduces the glare and shine of the finish so if you prefer a shiny finish another additive might be better.

   I also think that the faux teak deck looks pretty good on these boats and would like to retain the effect on my boat.  Amel IMO used good judgement in not using a real teak overlay deck on these boats.

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220


On Oct 31, 2017, at 8:28 AM, flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

I'm un-hijacking a previous thread, and will talk a little about how and why we painted the decks on our 1992 SM. I agree with Bill Kinney that the SM nonskid (faux teak) is very good, and should not be changed unless you have a compelling reason to do so. I our case, we did.

The SM decks consist of 2 layers of gel coat. The 1st layer is white, and then you have the tan layer which is our non skid. At the time we painted our decks, Aloha was 24 years old, and had spent much of her life in the heat of the tropics. In some areas we had some fine cracks in the tan layer, and even worse, we had a few areas where about 1" chunks of the tan gel coat had completely separated from the white below. According to Joel Potter, this is fairly common on the older boats that have been exposed to a lot of heat and sun, and may have been due to Amel having applied the top layer of gel coat a little thicker than than recommended on the older boats. After 2 years in the Eastern Caribbean, I saw numerous older Sms with varying degrees of this same problem.

We knew the only long term fix would be painting the decks, but we wanted to retain the Amel look. I've seen a couple of other Amels with painted decks, but they had lost the faux teak look, and I didn't think it looked good. We had the work done in Trinidad, had a experienced painting contractor who was willing to work with me, and we have been extremely pleased with the end result. I have not had a single Amel owner not say the decks look better than original. The other advantage is they are a slightly lighter in color, have white stripes, and are much cooler to walk on.

What we did was very labor intensive, and the only way we could afford it was by choosing Trinidad which has a low labor cost with some very skilled workers. First, they spent days making a huge mess by sanding the entire layer of tan gel coat off. You have a lot of detail on our decks, and some ha d to be done by hand. Next they did the fine sanding, and eventually taped off everything outside the decks to prep for paint. Then the decks were sprayed with a white primer, followed by more fine detail work after the primer was dry. When that was done, the decks were sprayed with egg shell white awlgrip. Then they applied fine line masking tape to all of the stripes. Now the decks were sprayed with Castle Tan awlgrip mixed with a fine grit for non skid. After the tape was pulled, we had beautiful light tan decks with white stripes. I forgot to mention, prior to starting the painting, we removed the lid from the liferaft locker, and experimented with that to get the technique right. 

We have been happy with the outcome, and a year and a half later, it still looks as good as the day it was finished. Also, the non skid properties are better than the original decks. If anyone would like pictures, just send me your email, and I'll take some for you.

Steve and Liz Davis
Aloha SM 72
Santa Marta, Columbia for a few more days





Re: Spade Anchor

Duane Siegfri
 

We still have the original 30 kg (66lb) Bugel in Stainless for the main anchor and a 44# Brittany in the spare roller.

We've anchored a lot and have been in winds up to 40 knots and held firm.  The odd thing is the one time we dragged there was almost no wind.  We were anchored in the intercoastal waterway and overnight the tide change caused us to drag, so apparently the anchor did not reset.  We were in muddy sand with little to no grass and had been there for several days.  The anchor dragged around 150 feet then reset.  I wonder whether the boat drifted over the anchor and the chain somehow caught the stock and pulled it out.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Amel Deck Painting

Stephen Davis
 

I'm un-hijacking a previous thread, and will talk a little about how and why we painted the decks on our 1992 SM. I agree with Bill Kinney that the SM nonskid (faux teak) is very good, and should not be changed unless you have a compelling reason to do so. I our case, we did.

The SM decks consist of 2 layers of gel coat. The 1st layer is white, and then you have the tan layer which is our non skid. At the time we painted our decks, Aloha was 24 years old, and had spent much of her life in the heat of the tropics. In some areas we had some fine cracks in the tan layer, and even worse, we had a few areas where about 1" chunks of the tan gel coat had completely separated from the white below. According to Joel Potter, this is fairly common on the older boats that have been exposed to a lot of heat and sun, and may have been due to Amel having applied the top layer of gel coat a little thicker than than recommended on the older boats. After 2 years in the Eastern Caribbean, I saw numerous older Sms with varying degrees of this same problem.

We knew the only long term fix would be painting the decks, but we wanted to retain the Amel look. I've seen a couple of other Amels with painted decks, but they had lost the faux teak look, and I didn't think it looked good. We had the work done in Trinidad, had a experienced painting contractor who was willing to work with me, and we have been extremely pleased with the end result. I have not had a single Amel owner not say the decks look better than original. The other advantage is they are a slightly lighter in color, have white stripes, and are much cooler to walk on.

What we did was very labor intensive, and the only way we could afford it was by choosing Trinidad which has a low labor cost with some very skilled workers. First, they spent days making a huge mess by sanding the entire layer of tan gel coat off. You have a lot of detail on our decks, and some had to be done by hand. Next they did the fine sanding, and eventually taped off everything outside the decks to prep for paint. Then the decks were sprayed with a white primer, followed by more fine detail work after the primer was dry. When that was done, the decks were sprayed with egg shell white awlgrip. Then they applied fine line masking tape to all of the stripes. Now the decks were sprayed with Castle Tan awlgrip mixed with a fine grit for non skid. After the tape was pulled, we had beautiful light tan decks with white stripes. I forgot to mention, prior to starting the painting, we removed the lid from the liferaft locker, and experimented with that to get the technique right.

We have been happy with the outcome, and a year and a half later, it still looks as good as the day it was finished. Also, the non skid properties are better than the original decks. If anyone would like pictures, just send me your email, and I'll take some for you.

Steve and Liz Davis
Aloha SM 72
Santa Marta, Columbia for a few more days



Re: water collecting below companionway door

Duane Siegfri
 

Ryan,

I have the same issue.  I have not found a drain hole at the bottom of the companionway well, either by looking into it with a flashlight or looking for the drain from the engine compartment.  

If you have a shop vac and some small diameter hose, duct tape the latter into the shop vac hose and suction the water out.  Otherwise take a wire coat hanger and attach a rag to dip into the well, wring out the rag, and repeat.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: jib furling

Duane Siegfri
 

Dieter,

Your photos did not come through, can you post them to the photos section?

Thanks,
Duane


jib furling

INUS - BUSCH
 

I found a spare part on my Sharki, I think it is for jib furling (see 2 fotos). I am not at the boat now, but it seems to me that it belongs not to the sharki, because of the big dimensions: The maximum outer diameter is 104 mm, the length over all 195 mm, the inner diameter at the pertinax bearings is 45 mm, weight is nearly 2 kg.

The part is not new, but for me it is a pity to throw it away. If somebody is interested, you can have it for free, just pay me the delivery costs from Germany to wherever. My email is inusbusch att yahoo.de

 

Best

Dieter

Fal-lera, Sharki #135

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Perkins M 4.154 repairs

christian alby <calbyy@...>
 

Hi there Jean Pierre
I am already in contact with them; quick response, they are already checking availability.
They have all to rebuild cylinders, only the camshaft & oïl pump which seem to be hard to find.
thanks for tip
 
Christian Alby - France home fixe +33 (0)5 34 39 06 02 home Internet +33 (0)9 60 37 22 72 mobile +33 (0)6 42 69 07 80



De : "Jean-Pierre's MacBook Air jgermain@... [amelyachtowners]"
À : amelyachtowners@...
Envoyé le : Mardi 31 octobre 2017 9h46
Objet : Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Perkins M 4.154 repairs

 
Hi Christian,

I have had very good service from parts4engines.com in the UK.  

I visited their warehouse and they have an extensive supply of components for Perkins and Volvos.

Good luck.

Jean-Pierre Germain
SY Eleuthera, SM 007


On 31 Oct 2017, at 01:10, calbyy@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


I am looking for repair parts to rebuild the Perkins 60 HP diesel engine on Désirade VIII - Maramu N° 116 built 1982.
The engine gave up on me in Tenerife, went in a cloud of smoke as DO went down & mixed with lube oïl, due to faulty oïl pump (worn out - loss of oïl pressure) . 
I sourced suppliers to rebuild cylinder head & blocks, but have difficulty finding a replacement camshaft & tappets, as well as a lube oïl pump. 
I am now looking for one old Perkins M 4.154, laid up somewhere in the world (as close as possible to Europe would be best) to purchase & use for parts, then refit as spare, as I feel more confident to rebuild & run an old engine than to go for the new generation, driven by computers, to sail in out of the main sea-routes.
Interested to hear from you all who did replace your engines.
Fair winds (as I hope to return to the same)

christian Alby - Désirade VIII - Maramu # 116 - now in Marina Atlantico Santa Cruz de Tenerife.





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Furling Gearbox Differences

Jean-Pierre's MacBook Air <jgermain@...>
 

… following on the hijack below :-)

I was very impressed by the job done on ALOHA, an older SM.  Steve is a member of this parish and should see this soon.

Jean-Pierre Germain
SY Eleuthera SM007


On 31 Oct 2017, at 00:00, Jay Hosford jay.hosford@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Not to hijack,  I would be interested if anyone ever pulled up the fake teak and replaced with nonskid?


On Oct 29, 2017, at 4:36 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

For those of you who have more experiences with Amel's of different vintages... are there fitting differences between the Leroy Somer and Bonfiglioli gearboxes used on the Mainmast furling system? 


Are they interchangeable?  Interchangeable with modifications?  Or just too different to try?


Thanks!


Bill Kinney

Sm160, Harmonie

Deltaville, VA

Waiting for the last of TS Philippe to go by so we can head south.





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Perkins M 4.154 repairs

Jean-Pierre's MacBook Air <jgermain@...>
 

Hi Christian,

I have had very good service from parts4engines.com in the UK.  

I visited their warehouse and they have an extensive supply of components for Perkins and Volvos.

Good luck.

Jean-Pierre Germain
SY Eleuthera, SM 007


On 31 Oct 2017, at 01:10, calbyy@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


I am looking for repair parts to rebuild the Perkins 60 HP diesel engine on Désirade VIII - Maramu N° 116 built 1982.

The engine gave up on me in Tenerife, went in a cloud of smoke as DO went down & mixed with lube oïl, due to faulty oïl pump (worn out - loss of oïl pressure) . 

I sourced suppliers to rebuild cylinder head & blocks, but have difficulty finding a replacement camshaft & tappets, as well as a lube oïl pump. 

I am now looking for one old Perkins M 4.154, laid up somewhere in the world (as close as possible to Europe would be best) to purchase & use for parts, then refit as spare, as I feel more confident to rebuild & run an old engine than to go for the new generation, driven by computers, to sail in out of the main sea-routes.

Interested to hear from you all who did replace your engines.

Fair winds (as I hope to return to the same)


christian Alby - Désirade VIII - Maramu # 116 - now in Marina Atlantico Santa Cruz de Tenerife.




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Deck nonskid

greatketch@...
 

Jay,

It is really easy to create a new thread with a useful title to help people in the future find the information, and help people get you the information you are looking for.. There is no need to hijack totally unrelated topics with your question.

I assume you are asking about removing the nonskid surface on the deck.  It is the deck's gelcoat. It is not an applied surface and can not be “removed".  In cases where it has been abused, damaged, or severely worn, there are several option for renewal/replacement of widely varying effort, cost, functionality and esthetic value. If that is required, the options are pretty much like any other boat. It is unfortunate if that would be needed, the factory surface is an excellent nonskid surface.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Off Cape Hatteras, migrating south



---In amelyachtowners@..., <jay.hosford@...> wrote :

Not to hijack,  I would be interested if anyone ever pulled up the fake teak and replaced with nonskid?


On Oct 29, 2017, at 4:36 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

For those of you who have more experiences with Amel's of different vintages... are there fitting differences between the Leroy Somer and , damaged  gearboxes used on the Mainmast furling system? 


Are they interchangeable?  Interchangeable with modifications?  Or just too different to try?


Thanks!


Bill Kinney

Sm160, Harmonie

Deltaville, VA

Waiting for the last of TS Philippe to go by so we can head south.


Perkins M 4.154 repairs

calbyy@...
 

I am looking for repair parts to rebuild the Perkins 60 HP diesel engine on Désirade VIII - Maramu N° 116 built 1982.

The engine gave up on me in Tenerife, went in a cloud of smoke as DO went down & mixed with lube oïl, due to faulty oïl pump (worn out - loss of oïl pressure) . 

I sourced suppliers to rebuild cylinder head & blocks, but have difficulty finding a replacement camshaft & tappets, as well as a lube oïl pump. 

I am now looking for one old Perkins M 4.154, laid up somewhere in the world (as close as possible to Europe would be best) to purchase & use for parts, then refit as spare, as I feel more confident to rebuild & run an old engine than to go for the new generation, driven by computers, to sail in out of the main sea-routes.

Interested to hear from you all who did replace your engines.

Fair winds (as I hope to return to the same)


christian Alby - Désirade VIII - Maramu # 116 - now in Marina Atlantico Santa Cruz de Tenerife.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Furling Gearbox Differences

james Hosford
 

Not to hijack,  I would be interested if anyone ever pulled up the fake teak and replaced with nonskid?


On Oct 29, 2017, at 4:36 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

For those of you who have more experiences with Amel's of different vintages... are there fitting differences between the Leroy Somer and Bonfiglioli gearboxes used on the Mainmast furling system? 


Are they interchangeable?  Interchangeable with modifications?  Or just too different to try?


Thanks!


Bill Kinney

Sm160, Harmonie

Deltaville, VA

Waiting for the last of TS Philippe to go by so we can head south.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Distributed vs. Conventional Electrical Systems

James Alton
 

Gabriele,

   Many thanks for posting this information for me.  Given that our hull numbers are only 1 unit apart, it seems likely that our boats might have the same bow thruster motor.  I will confirm this the next time I am aboard.  If we assume that the main cable run is about 50’ (25’ each way), my calculator suggests that the voltage drop would be on the order of 2 1/4 volts with your estimated load of 350 amps. (I did not account for the voltage drop in the 1/0 motor wiring or in the contactor so the voltage drop could be more)  Assuming a battery voltage of 12.5, this would give us about 10.25V x 350 = 3,590 watts or a bit under 5 hp electrical.  It will be very interesting to learn what you find is the actual amperage draw and voltage.  I note that the Type TF15 motor used on the Santorin is rated 2.1KW higher,  I would be curious to know if the wire size was increased to handle the increased amperage draw.  The RPM at 12V for the TF12 and the TF15 is almost the same so this makes me wonder if the lower unit gearing could be different on the Santorin and Maramu?  It is pretty clear why Amel wanted to move to 24V with the much more powerful SM thruster.  

   This is very helpful information for my project of perhaps upgrading my bow thruster in the future, thanks again.

   I must say that I am quite impressed with the fact that my boat still has the original contactor  (relay).  Amel must have used a very high quality unit.

James

On Oct 30, 2017, at 8:46 PM, Gabriele Antolini svsunnyside@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hi James
As I told you on the prior message, last week I was in Cartagena and I took the opportunity to go on board and revise the bow thruster.
Now I can confirm what I wrote before . 
I do not know if the Santorin #96 of Ian was built in the same year of ours Maramu , but according to the increment of power and torque I suppose it is a later edition . 
My bow truster motor label shows  :
Motor Leroy-Somer , Type TF12 ,  #642249/5  ,  excitation in serie  ,  2700 rpm  ,  4.2 kW  ,  1.5mkg  ,  IP20 protection  ,  S2.20SE duty  ,  Rotor/inductor 12 V  530A  ,  F class
In my opinion  530 A is a start-up pick current .     In January , when I will be again on board, I will measure with the clamp meter the Amps absorbed at the different conditions. Also using cables 3/0 (85mm2) from the main switches to the the distribution box and 1/0 (50mm2) from there to the motor, due to the drooping voltage of the 12 V system, I think it cannot absorb more than 350 A . It will be interesting to know the size of cables used on a 24 V bowthruster.

 I noted also the following info that you may be interested to know:
 - Bearings:  power shaft side 6005 2RS 25x47x12 mm (ID- OD- W)
                   commutator side 6201 2RS 12x32x10 mm    
 - Inside the holding brush flange there is an occult connection for the opposite brush.
 - A2 feed 1st and 3rd brushes
 - A1        2nd      4th
 - D1 & D2 feed opposite sides of 4 stator windings
 - At the motor teminals posts arrive 4  #1/0 cables (50mm2) ,3 from solenoids (A1, D1, D2) and 1 direct (A2=negative).
 - Electrical measurement on the feeding cables A1, D1, D2, A2, disconnected from the motor posts shows :
1) no excitation at the solenoids -  V=0 at A1, D1, D2, but in short by them
2) switch ON , joy stick to LEFT -   12V only on D2,   short between A1, & D1 
3) switch ON , joy stick to RIGHT-  12V only on D1,   short between A1, & D2

Sorry for my English mixing Spanglish & Itañol

best regards
Gabriele 
S/V Sunny Side
Maramu #219  1987
Todomar yard Cartagena
San Blas Jan.-April




From: "James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners@... 
Sent: Thursday, 19 October 2017, 12:55
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Distributed vs. Conventional Electrical Systems

 
Ian,

   Many thanks for that bit of information.  My Maramu has a 100 amp breaker for the bow thruster and the Genoa furler.  Does the Santorin also have a breaker and if so can you tell me the amperage rating?   If not, do you know the wattage rating of the motor?   My current thruster is fantastic and I am in no rush to change anything, but if there is a simple and proven option to increase the power such as a motor changeout, I would like to make that upgrade in the future.

   I finally got to see a Santorin up close this season, two actually.  Very nice boats, congratulations.  I also appreciate the fact that my Maramu is not as complex as the SM and for the wife and I 46’ is a nice size that we can easily handle.  Both are wonderful boats I think but fewer moving parts to break means I get to spend more time outside of the bilge and the engine room.  (grin)

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
On Oct 19, 2017, at 8:49 AM, Ian parkianj@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

James
The Santorin is 12v throughout. Much easier for my simple knowledge of electrical systems! But I believe the bow thruster is the same as the SM apart from the motor. Being smaller and lighter it won’t need the higher wattage.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN 96 ashore Clarke’s Court, Grenada.







Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] water collecting below companionway door

James Alton
 

Ryan,

   This information applies to my Maramu but perhaps the sliders are similar.  On my boat I noticed a bit of water under the steps after washing the boat.  With the slider raised,  I carefully cleaned out the “pan” that the slider sits in when fully down.  After cleaning away the accumulated mud I found on  both the Port and Stb. side a small drain hole perhaps 5/16” in diameter which drain to the sump.  Before cleaning out these two holes, the aforementioned “pan” was holding water.  Once I cleared these holes the problem of water puddling under the steps after washing the boat went away.  

Best of luck,

James

Maramuu #220

On Oct 30, 2017, at 9:13 PM, Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hi all,
We had a pretty bad storm here last night and tons of rain was slamming directly into my companionway.  Today, I've noticed that about 3" (8 cm) of water in the space the vertical part of the companionway door slides into when it's in the down position.  It doesn't appear to have a way to drain, so I sucked it out with my shop vac.

Is this normal?  The weather strip on the outside appears to be in good condition, but it isn't perfect.  I doubt it's possible to achieve a perfect seal there.

Is there a better way to drain this area?

Any recommendations for getting any remaining moisture out of there?

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ONAN Generator not starting

Alex Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...>
 

Dear all,
thank you for your valuable advice. It turned out to be a corrosion problem at the starter solenoids and the genset is up and running again. I'm happy to be in this group!
Cheers, Alex
AMEL54#15
NO STRESS

On Saturday, October 28, 2017, 3:09:04 PM GMT-4, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:


 

One of my braided bonding straps is connected to an area without paint on my heat exchanger.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2017 11:44 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ONAN Generator not starting

 

 

Hi Alex,

Sounds like you have found your problem - corroded connections. Rather than spray, you'll want to disconnect all wires, clean them up mechanically (sanding, wire brushing etc.) and reattach.  Can't help with the location of the strap, but it sounds like you may not need parts after all.

Good luck with it,

Craig SN68



---In amelyachtowners@..., <alexramseyer@...> wrote :

Looking at the back of my generator, I saw a whole new world – and it was not really exciting. The contacts to the starter solenoid (I guess it is..) as well as the solenoid down at the bottom of the back of the gen are corroded. I sprayed with contact spray and a day later I hear it clicking and it started again. But only for one time and then it went back to trying to start (initiating starting mechanism for ca. half a second. So I think I have to get rid of that corrosion to get the problem solved. Any best practices from your side are appreciated.

Another disturbing factor was to see one grounding strap tied to the bonding system, but a second one hanging around with no attachment at all (see picture). Can someone tell me where that needs to be attached to?

Thanks, Alex

 


water collecting below companionway door

Ryan Meador
 

Hi all,
We had a pretty bad storm here last night and tons of rain was slamming directly into my companionway.  Today, I've noticed that about 3" (8 cm) of water in the space the vertical part of the companionway door slides into when it's in the down position.  It doesn't appear to have a way to drain, so I sucked it out with my shop vac.

Is this normal?  The weather strip on the outside appears to be in good condition, but it isn't perfect.  I doubt it's possible to achieve a perfect seal there.

Is there a better way to drain this area?

Any recommendations for getting any remaining moisture out of there?

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Distributed vs. Conventional Electrical Systems

svsunnyside
 

Hi James
As I told you on the prior message, last week I was in Cartagena and I took the opportunity to go on board and revise the bow thruster.
Now I can confirm what I wrote before . 
I do not know if the Santorin #96 of Ian was built in the same year of ours Maramu , but according to the increment of power and torque I suppose it is a later edition . 
My bow truster motor label shows  :
Motor Leroy-Somer , Type TF12 ,  #642249/5  ,  excitation in serie  ,  2700 rpm  ,  4.2 kW  ,  1.5mkg  ,  IP20 protection  ,  S2.20SE duty  ,  Rotor/inductor 12 V  530A  ,  F class
In my opinion  530 A is a start-up pick current .     In January , when I will be again on board, I will measure with the clamp meter the Amps absorbed at the different conditions. Also using cables 3/0 (85mm2) from the main switches to the the distribution box and 1/0 (50mm2) from there to the motor, due to the drooping voltage of the 12 V system, I think it cannot absorb more than 350 A . It will be interesting to know the size of cables used on a 24 V bowthruster.

 I noted also the following info that you may be interested to know:
 - Bearings:  power shaft side 6005 2RS 25x47x12 mm (ID- OD- W)
                   commutator side 6201 2RS 12x32x10 mm    
 - Inside the holding brush flange there is an occult connection for the opposite brush.
 - A2 feed 1st and 3rd brushes
 - A1        2nd      4th
 - D1 & D2 feed opposite sides of 4 stator windings
 - At the motor teminals posts arrive 4  #1/0 cables (50mm2) ,3 from solenoids (A1, D1, D2) and 1 direct (A2=negative).
 - Electrical measurement on the feeding cables A1, D1, D2, A2, disconnected from the motor posts shows :
1) no excitation at the solenoids -  V=0 at A1, D1, D2, but in short by them
2) switch ON , joy stick to LEFT -   12V only on D2,   short between A1, & D1 
3) switch ON , joy stick to RIGHT-  12V only on D1,   short between A1, & D2

Sorry for my English mixing Spanglish & Itañol

best regards
Gabriele 
S/V Sunny Side
Maramu #219  1987
Todomar yard Cartagena
San Blas Jan.-April




From: "James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Thursday, 19 October 2017, 12:55
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Distributed vs. Conventional Electrical Systems

 
Ian,

   Many thanks for that bit of information.  My Maramu has a 100 amp breaker for the bow thruster and the Genoa furler.  Does the Santorin also have a breaker and if so can you tell me the amperage rating?   If not, do you know the wattage rating of the motor?   My current thruster is fantastic and I am in no rush to change anything, but if there is a simple and proven option to increase the power such as a motor changeout, I would like to make that upgrade in the future.

   I finally got to see a Santorin up close this season, two actually.  Very nice boats, congratulations.  I also appreciate the fact that my Maramu is not as complex as the SM and for the wife and I 46’ is a nice size that we can easily handle.  Both are wonderful boats I think but fewer moving parts to break means I get to spend more time outside of the bilge and the engine room.  (grin)

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
On Oct 19, 2017, at 8:49 AM, Ian parkianj@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

James
The Santorin is 12v throughout. Much easier for my simple knowledge of electrical systems! But I believe the bow thruster is the same as the SM apart from the motor. Being smaller and lighter it won’t need the higher wattage.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN 96 ashore Clarke’s Court, Grenada.





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Battery Tester

Oliver Buhlert
 

Bill Rousse gave us the recommendation for using a digital Battery Tester to check our Batteries. Our buddy boat had a very professional and expensive tool on board and we checked the batteries before we bought them. 
A few weeks later we got our new digital Batterie tester and we tested the Batteries with our „normal“ Batterie tester and from time to time as well with the professional one of our friends. I agree, that there are differences, but they are not huge. For our purpose a „normal“ Batterie tester is good enough. 

Oliver
SV JoEmi
SM 2000 No. 397


Am 27.10.2017 um 15:22 schrieb 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:


I have one of these (recommended by Bill R.) They work well and are perfect for my limited needs. Very easy to use.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Grenada

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] 
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2017 9:11 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ONAN Generator not starting

 

  

Alex,

 

I recommend that you buy one of these or similar:  https://www.amazon.com/BA7-100-1200-Electronic-Battery-System/dp/B0015PI7A4

 

My dock neighbor is a Marine Electrician and laughed at me when I showed it to him.  However, when I tested 24 batteries (12 new, 12 old) the results this tester gave me were all within 5% of a "professional" battery load tester.  It's certainly "good enough" to let you know if you battery is good or not.

 

Mark

SM #440 Cara

Dealer, MD USA

 




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] only available until mid of Dec! >>> AMEL Rubber Rails BRAND NEW 2 x 16.0m

Olaf RENOS at Yahoo <olaf_renos@...>
 

Hello Ron,

 

Yes, and I answered on 29.08.2017 with two private messages to you directly but didn’t received any reply from you. Pls check your inbox and spam folder.

 

BR

Olaf

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: 28 October 2017 14:02
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] only available until mid of Dec! >>> AMEL Rubber Rails BRAND NEW 2 x 16.0m

 

 

I expressed interest when you first posted.  I won't be in the Caribbean until Spring.  Where are you headed?  I'm going to be in Brazil for a couple of months then work back to Florida.

 

Meltem 1976, SWAN Song #29

 

On Sat, Oct 28, 2017 at 11:15 AM, Olaf Bauer olaf_renos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

[Attachment(s) from Olaf Bauer included below]

>>> The rubber rails are only available until middle of December! <<<

 



Hello AMELians,


I posted this offer some month before. Now an update that this rails are only available until middle of December 2017. 



I sell two original and brand new AMEL Rubber rails for Super Maramu 2000 and  Santorin.

2 PC x 16meters.

Brand NEW.

AMEL Caribe sell them for 26.65 € per meter + Tax. That is € 852.8 + TAX.

 

I will sell them for € 550 all-in.


I can deliver them between Grenada and St. Martin for free.  

 

>>> The rubber rails are only available until middle of December! <<<

 

 

Fair winds


Olaf
MIA-AMARA, Santorin #135

LeMarin, Martinique



 

--

Regards,

Ron Hynes

954.319.0944


Re: Furling Gearbox Differences

alainfeuillet@...
 

Hello Bill,
on PILGRIM SM#26 1990, I have and I replaced with Bonfiglioli gearboxes. I am quite sure Leroy Sommer can be a sound replacement providing you take care of the reduction ratio, interface with the electric motor and interface with the driving pulley. If I had not found Bonfigloili this is what I would have done.
Fair winds.
Alain
from Skopelos (Greece)