Date   

Re: Repower questions

Miles
 

Hi Bill,

 

I repowered with the Volvo D2-75 about a year ago.  I am very pleased with the engine.  It has the same horse power but more torque, and uses the same transmission and prop.

 

Regards,

 

Miles

s/y Ladybug, les Saintes,

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Heat Exchanger [2 Attachments]

John Clark
 

Hi Pat,    yes we were repowered in 2002.  


Re: Bow Thruster Rusted Shut

Steven Bode - SV Intention 1994-SM#117
 

SUCCESS!! THANKS FOR ALL THE GREAT COMMENTS, THOUGHTS, AND ENCOURAGEMENT!!
Chris n Jaygo, you were right. I had a tool made base on the picture Mark Erdos shared the link for. Still it took over five hours of work to get that out after days for soaking. Unfortunately, I could not find the penetrating fluid mentioned by Ryan Meador or Dennis Johns, but it soaked in WD-40 for days. This is my second successful use of WD-40 as a penetrating fluid. Anyway, it was super hard, time consuming and frustrating! Had to keep wiping the tube down with Acetone to clean the lube off before fitting the collar, otherwise, it would just slip down the tube. In the end, it was the hammering on the collar once attached that got it going. 

Folks that have not serviced their bow thruster by removing the tube from the motor and think that it may be rusted up: word up -- it could be in there solid and it's going to be a big job getting it out.

1. Have someone make this tool. Make sure that the fit is precise (60mm) because you are going to end up banging on that collar with some force and if the tool does not fit perfectly, you might crack the tube. I emailed Amel and they said that they do NOT have this tool.
2. Go get yourself the best penetrating penetrating known to man.
3. Plan on several days to more than a week of soaking with penetrating fluid. 
4. Get a good hammer and a huge punch. I used the socket on a long extension and put it on the bolt of the collar and wailed away. I think that was what ultimately broke it free initially. Lateral force. Then banging down on the collar.
5. Once you get some movement, add more penetrating fluid and give it another couple of days.

I'll put this all together in a video once I'm finished with this project on https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC46jj7mfMh767QkQiNV0LIw

Steve Bode
SV Intention
Port Ginesta, Spain
Facebook.com/svintention


Re: Bow Thruster Rusted Shut

Steven Bode - SV Intention 1994-SM#117
 

Well Bill, we used all the first three and then went to #4 -- brute force. That did the trick. BAH -- Big Ass Hammer! It was okay, because the collar that I had made was a perfect fit. Anything else and one would likely destroy that tube. 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Heat Exchanger [2 Attachments]

Patrick McAneny
 

John, I have the one to the right, looks to be an older version. If you have the newer version ,then you are probably wondering what I was referring to about rubber caps . Looks like a better design than what I have. Was your engine replaced , because my boat is newer and yet has what looks to be an older designed engine.
Thanks,
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sat, Jun 2, 2018 11:56 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Heat Exchanger [2 Attachments]

 
[Attachment(s) from john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] included below]
Hi Pat, I just saw a picture of a different version of the TAMD22, is this the setup you have?  My engine is the other photo.  

    John
SV Annie SM37
USVI


Re: Volvo D3-110 won't start - instruments won't even light up?

ESTELLER
 

Hi Bill AND SCOTT. I do not know how to use the site amelyachtowners@...
that's why I'm sending you this message regarding SCOTT's problem
1- At CORFU GOUVIA there is an excellent VOLVO agent who is very competent and very reasonably priced. I make him do my big services on my D3 110 when I go to Gouvia
2-Two years ago my engine stopped in the open Ionian Sea, and he could not restart it. A few hours before I had a warning message: "fuel service needed" on the EVC, but I did not do anything.
I changed the fuel filter and the engine restarted, while like that of SCOTT he did not want to restart (the starter was not running either)
Maybe what I tell you might be useful to SCOTT
Regards José AMEL 54 ORION


Re: Heat Exchanger

John Clark
 

Hi Pat, I just saw a picture of a different version of the TAMD22, is this the setup you have?  My engine is the other photo.  

    John
SV Annie SM37
USVI


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Pump out of black water

VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

Kent,

The simplest way I just open pumpout cove and look.

Vladimir
SM 345 LIFE IS GOOD


On Tue, Jan 23, 2018, 08:50 karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi all,
I'm also looking for a way to monitor holding tank levels. There are several monitors that use capacitance sensors that connect to the outside of the tank. Here's an example:

https://tankedge.com/products.html

Has anyone tried these?

Does anyone know the thickness of the tank walls?
Are they solid fiberglass?

Here's another suggestion that involves screws through the walls:
"I put small stainless steel self-tappers through the side at strategic levels and then used the conductivity of the contents to feed a small amount of current to transistors which in turn switched on LEDs."

Any other ideas?

Thanks for any ideas.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy
Ft Lauderdale, FL USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger

Patrick McAneny
 

John, I was just on the boat and forgot to look at the manual, I  got involved trying to get the thermostat off , nuts frozen ,Corrosion X on the job. Your attachment did not come through. I think the end caps are original , the question is how do they seal , only with the pressure of the SS. clamps . Orings were mentioned, I don't have any, and don't know where they would be placed if I had them. Fortunately, its only a five minute commute from my house to my boat, I will run back out and have a look at the manual ,although it is a very poor manual,little detail. Thanks for confirming it is a Perkins 4-108 
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sat, Jun 2, 2018 10:19 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger

 
Hi Pat,
  check the service manual attached below.  It has a blowup diagram of the cooling system for the various versions of the Volvo "####22#".  

 My understanding is that the "22" is based on the Perkins 4-108.  

My 1990 SM was repowered in 2002 with a Volvo TAMD22a and other than the water hoses, the heat exchanger housing is all metal.  

If you have eliminated the usual suspects: impeller, sea strainer, leaky hoses and check valves then perhaps the end caps, if they are not standard, could be the culprit.  It certainly sounds wrong that the silicone covers water passages, and that a rubber boot separates coolant and sea water.

Can you send a photo?  

                                Regards,  John



---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

John, I have no Orings , the rubber end caps have two different diameters ,the larger dia. clamps around the H/E housing and the smaller dia. part clamps around the insert. May be that I am missing parts and this is what the previous owner came up with. I have been looking online for a blown up diagram. Is the TMD22A a Perkins 4-108 ? I can find new end boots for it . The temperature increases with the rpm , at 2500 it got up to 215F, slow down and it decreases to 190 or so.
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sat, Jun 2, 2018 8:27 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger [1 Attachment]

 
[Attachment(s) from john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] included below]
Hi Pat,
    I attached the TAMD22 service manual, the cooling system starts on page 93.  I can tell you if you are blocking holes it will significantly reduce the heat removal ability of the HX.  I see in the manual that there appears to be o rings on the metal end caps.  This is how I would expect it to be.  

What kind of over heating issue do you experience?  It could be something unrelated to the HX like drawing air from a cracked SW hose(happened to me) or leaking anti siphon, leaking backflow preventer....

                                          Regards,  John

John Clark
SV Annie SM 37 
USVI

---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Mark, Reading your reply, I realized that I left out an important fact ,that my engine is a Volvo TMD22a . So my exchanger may be different from yours. I suspect it is, I see no where ,where a O ring would reside.All my small tubes were clear , what was partially block were two of the four larger holes in the bronze housing where antifreeze passes through.On my H/E there is two rubber boots on either end where the water enters and leaves from and they are secured with s.s.clamps. If they should leak ,and they are under pressure raw water could mix with the antifreeze.So if anyone with a TMD22a could tell me if there is Orings or silicone ,I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
Pat
SM3123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Jun 1, 2018 5:13 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger

 
Hi Pat,
 
It sounds as though you are on the right track.
 
The ends should be sealed with a rubber o-ring. Depending on the engine type there are sometimes 2 o-rings. There should not be silicone. You should be able to look through the tubes and see nothing but air. Any obstruction is going to cause you grief especially near the ends as this is where the sea-water changes direction. If you look at the design of the HE, you will see the how the seawater changes direction two times before moving on.
 
While you are in there, also check the after-cooler, if you have a turbo charger. This can be another are where the copper tubes become blocked and foul the flow of sea-water.
 
The anti freeze is moved along the outside of the tubes by the engine’s fresh water pump. The sea water is moved by the sea-water pump impeller on the inside of the tubes. The anti-freeze is cooled as it makes contact with the other side of the copper tube.
 
Hope this helps you.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 1, 2018 1:23 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger
 
 
I have had my heat exchanger off several times over the years ,and reinstalled it as the previous owner had and not questioned it ,until now. I have had an overheating issue for years and am resolved to solve it . The previous owner applied silicone on the end caps to seal them. Is this normally done? When I just removed the H/E I found that as I pushed the cap on the last time ,the silicone was pushed back and covered better than 50% of one of the four holes and about 25%of another. Which brings me to another question. Is the antifreeze forced through the holes or does it just come into contact with the tubes as it moves along with the flow,I assume the later.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans #123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger [1 Attachment]

John Clark
 

Hi Pat,
  check the service manual attached below.  It has a blowup diagram of the cooling system for the various versions of the Volvo "####22#".  

 My understanding is that the "22" is based on the Perkins 4-108.  

My 1990 SM was repowered in 2002 with a Volvo TAMD22a and other than the water hoses, the heat exchanger housing is all metal.  

If you have eliminated the usual suspects: impeller, sea strainer, leaky hoses and check valves then perhaps the end caps, if they are not standard, could be the culprit.  It certainly sounds wrong that the silicone covers water passages, and that a rubber boot separates coolant and sea water.

Can you send a photo?  

                                Regards,  John



---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

John, I have no Orings , the rubber end caps have two different diameters ,the larger dia. clamps around the H/E housing and the smaller dia. part clamps around the insert. May be that I am missing parts and this is what the previous owner came up with. I have been looking online for a blown up diagram. Is the TMD22A a Perkins 4-108 ? I can find new end boots for it . The temperature increases with the rpm , at 2500 it got up to 215F, slow down and it decreases to 190 or so.
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sat, Jun 2, 2018 8:27 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger [1 Attachment]

 
[Attachment(s) from john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] included below]
Hi Pat,
    I attached the TAMD22 service manual, the cooling system starts on page 93.  I can tell you if you are blocking holes it will significantly reduce the heat removal ability of the HX.  I see in the manual that there appears to be o rings on the metal end caps.  This is how I would expect it to be.  

What kind of over heating issue do you experience?  It could be something unrelated to the HX like drawing air from a cracked SW hose(happened to me) or leaking anti siphon, leaking backflow preventer....

                                          Regards,  John

John Clark
SV Annie SM 37 
USVI

---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

Mark, Reading your reply, I realized that I left out an important fact ,that my engine is a Volvo TMD22a . So my exchanger may be different from yours. I suspect it is, I see no where ,where a O ring would reside.All my small tubes were clear , what was partially block were two of the four larger holes in the bronze housing where antifreeze passes through.On my H/E there is two rubber boots on either end where the water enters and leaves from and they are secured with s.s.clamps. If they should leak ,and they are under pressure raw water could mix with the antifreeze.So if anyone with a TMD22a could tell me if there is Orings or silicone ,I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
Pat
SM3123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Jun 1, 2018 5:13 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger

 
Hi Pat,
 
It sounds as though you are on the right track.
 
The ends should be sealed with a rubber o-ring. Depending on the engine type there are sometimes 2 o-rings. There should not be silicone. You should be able to look through the tubes and see nothing but air. Any obstruction is going to cause you grief especially near the ends as this is where the sea-water changes direction. If you look at the design of the HE, you will see the how the seawater changes direction two times before moving on.
 
While you are in there, also check the after-cooler, if you have a turbo charger. This can be another are where the copper tubes become blocked and foul the flow of sea-water.
 
The anti freeze is moved along the outside of the tubes by the engine’s fresh water pump. The sea water is moved by the sea-water pump impeller on the inside of the tubes. The anti-freeze is cooled as it makes contact with the other side of the copper tube.
 
Hope this helps you.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 1, 2018 1:23 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger
 
 
I have had my heat exchanger off several times over the years ,and reinstalled it as the previous owner had and not questioned it ,until now. I have had an overheating issue for years and am resolved to solve it . The previous owner applied silicone on the end caps to seal them. Is this normally done? When I just removed the H/E I found that as I pushed the cap on the last time ,the silicone was pushed back and covered better than 50% of one of the four holes and about 25%of another. Which brings me to another question. Is the antifreeze forced through the holes or does it just come into contact with the tubes as it moves along with the flow,I assume the later.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans #123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower questions

greatketch@...
 

Thanks to all who answered!

We are not in dire need of engine replacement, but after two circumnavigation and just over 8000 hours we are entering that range where she might last many more years, but if she died in 6 months nobody would think it premature either.  

Bill Kinney
SM 160, Harmonie
Solomon’s Is, MD, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger [1 Attachment]

Patrick McAneny
 

John, I have no Orings , the rubber end caps have two different diameters ,the larger dia. clamps around the H/E housing and the smaller dia. part clamps around the insert. May be that I am missing parts and this is what the previous owner came up with. I have been looking online for a blown up diagram. Is the TMD22A a Perkins 4-108 ? I can find new end boots for it . The temperature increases with the rpm , at 2500 it got up to 215F, slow down and it decreases to 190 or so.
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sat, Jun 2, 2018 8:27 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger [1 Attachment]

 
[Attachment(s) from john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] included below]
Hi Pat,
    I attached the TAMD22 service manual, the cooling system starts on page 93.  I can tell you if you are blocking holes it will significantly reduce the heat removal ability of the HX.  I see in the manual that there appears to be o rings on the metal end caps.  This is how I would expect it to be.  

What kind of over heating issue do you experience?  It could be something unrelated to the HX like drawing air from a cracked SW hose(happened to me) or leaking anti siphon, leaking backflow preventer....

                                          Regards,  John

John Clark
SV Annie SM 37 
USVI

---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Mark, Reading your reply, I realized that I left out an important fact ,that my engine is a Volvo TMD22a . So my exchanger may be different from yours. I suspect it is, I see no where ,where a O ring would reside.All my small tubes were clear , what was partially block were two of the four larger holes in the bronze housing where antifreeze passes through.On my H/E there is two rubber boots on either end where the water enters and leaves from and they are secured with s.s.clamps. If they should leak ,and they are under pressure raw water could mix with the antifreeze.So if anyone with a TMD22a could tell me if there is Orings or silicone ,I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
Pat
SM3123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Jun 1, 2018 5:13 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger

 
Hi Pat,
 
It sounds as though you are on the right track.
 
The ends should be sealed with a rubber o-ring. Depending on the engine type there are sometimes 2 o-rings. There should not be silicone. You should be able to look through the tubes and see nothing but air. Any obstruction is going to cause you grief especially near the ends as this is where the sea-water changes direction. If you look at the design of the HE, you will see the how the seawater changes direction two times before moving on.
 
While you are in there, also check the after-cooler, if you have a turbo charger. This can be another are where the copper tubes become blocked and foul the flow of sea-water.
 
The anti freeze is moved along the outside of the tubes by the engine’s fresh water pump. The sea water is moved by the sea-water pump impeller on the inside of the tubes. The anti-freeze is cooled as it makes contact with the other side of the copper tube.
 
Hope this helps you.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 1, 2018 1:23 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger
 
 
I have had my heat exchanger off several times over the years ,and reinstalled it as the previous owner had and not questioned it ,until now. I have had an overheating issue for years and am resolved to solve it . The previous owner applied silicone on the end caps to seal them. Is this normally done? When I just removed the H/E I found that as I pushed the cap on the last time ,the silicone was pushed back and covered better than 50% of one of the four holes and about 25%of another. Which brings me to another question. Is the antifreeze forced through the holes or does it just come into contact with the tubes as it moves along with the flow,I assume the later.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans #123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger

John Clark
 

Hi Pat,
    I attached the TAMD22 service manual, the cooling system starts on page 93.  I can tell you if you are blocking holes it will significantly reduce the heat removal ability of the HX.  I see in the manual that there appears to be o rings on the metal end caps.  This is how I would expect it to be.  

What kind of over heating issue do you experience?  It could be something unrelated to the HX like drawing air from a cracked SW hose(happened to me) or leaking anti siphon, leaking backflow preventer....

                                          Regards,  John

John Clark
SV Annie SM 37 
USVI

---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

Mark, Reading your reply, I realized that I left out an important fact ,that my engine is a Volvo TMD22a . So my exchanger may be different from yours. I suspect it is, I see no where ,where a O ring would reside.All my small tubes were clear , what was partially block were two of the four larger holes in the bronze housing where antifreeze passes through.On my H/E there is two rubber boots on either end where the water enters and leaves from and they are secured with s.s.clamps. If they should leak ,and they are under pressure raw water could mix with the antifreeze.So if anyone with a TMD22a could tell me if there is Orings or silicone ,I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
Pat
SM3123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Jun 1, 2018 5:13 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger

 
Hi Pat,
 
It sounds as though you are on the right track.
 
The ends should be sealed with a rubber o-ring. Depending on the engine type there are sometimes 2 o-rings. There should not be silicone. You should be able to look through the tubes and see nothing but air. Any obstruction is going to cause you grief especially near the ends as this is where the sea-water changes direction. If you look at the design of the HE, you will see the how the seawater changes direction two times before moving on.
 
While you are in there, also check the after-cooler, if you have a turbo charger. This can be another are where the copper tubes become blocked and foul the flow of sea-water.
 
The anti freeze is moved along the outside of the tubes by the engine’s fresh water pump. The sea water is moved by the sea-water pump impeller on the inside of the tubes. The anti-freeze is cooled as it makes contact with the other side of the copper tube.
 
Hope this helps you.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 1, 2018 1:23 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger
 
 
I have had my heat exchanger off several times over the years ,and reinstalled it as the previous owner had and not questioned it ,until now. I have had an overheating issue for years and am resolved to solve it . The previous owner applied silicone on the end caps to seal them. Is this normally done? When I just removed the H/E I found that as I pushed the cap on the last time ,the silicone was pushed back and covered better than 50% of one of the four holes and about 25%of another. Which brings me to another question. Is the antifreeze forced through the holes or does it just come into contact with the tubes as it moves along with the flow,I assume the later.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans #123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Repower questions

karkauai
 

I’ll put it on my list Bob.  Prolly won’t happen for a couple months unless someone needs them right away.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM 243

On Jun 2, 2018, at 1:43 AM, rossidesigngroup@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent,


It would be good to get those part numbers and sources posted.  I've wondered about them in case we need to replace a temp or oil pressure sensor.

Bob, KAIMI SM 429
Monastir, Tunisia


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas shut off [1 Attachment]

Alan Leslie
 

At 1/4" NPT and BSP threads are only 1 TPI (threads per inch) different so its very difficult to tell what you have unless you have an accurate thread gauge. 
The angles of the threads are also different, one is 55 and the other 60 degrees 
Also both NPT and BSP come in straight and tapered threads and the tapers are not the same.
With some force you can make a BSP male fit an NPT female, but how can you ensure it will be gas tight?
NPT is only really common in the US.
BSP is common in France and the UK...despite France being metric ... French plumbing is mysterious !
It is more than likely that the connectors on the boat are BSP.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Repower questions

Alan Leslie
 

I would appreciate the information also Kent, as I am sure everyone would.
Look forward to your post !
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Repower questions

rossirossix4
 

Hi Kent,

It would be good to get those part numbers and sources posted.  I've wondered about them in case we need to replace a temp or oil pressure sensor.

Bob, KAIMI SM 429
Monastir, Tunisia


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas shut off

eric freedman
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas shut off

 

Mark,

You are correct, I  wss wrong. I should have looked at my book. It is 1/4" pipe. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Fri, Jun 1, 2018, 17:48 mfmcgovern@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Pat/Bill,


FYI, the Burkert gas solenoid on my SM has G1/4 threads.  The best I can tell, G1/4 is the same as 1/4 British Standard Pipe (1/4 BSP).  It appears that Burkert solenoids sold in the US market come standard with NPT threads and those sold in the rest of the world have G (BSP) threads.  

Since it appears that your gas solenoid was added by an owner and not by Amel, it really could be anything.  If there is a part number on the solenoid you might be able to Google it and find out.  In any case, if possible you probably should physically check it yourself to see what the threads are if you want to buy a "drop-in" replacement solenoid. 

Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas shut off [1 Attachment]

mfmcgovern@...
 

Pat/Bill,

FYI, the Burkert gas solenoid on my SM has G1/4 threads.  The best I can tell, G1/4 is the same as 1/4 British Standard Pipe (1/4 BSP).  It appears that Burkert solenoids sold in the US market come standard with NPT threads and those sold in the rest of the world have G (BSP) threads.  

Since it appears that your gas solenoid was added by an owner and not by Amel, it really could be anything.  If there is a part number on the solenoid you might be able to Google it and find out.  In any case, if possible you probably should physically check it yourself to see what the threads are if you want to buy a "drop-in" replacement solenoid. 

Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

 

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