Date   
Re: Solar and shade

Scott SV Tengah
 

Another photo. Note the vertical near the stern light. Initially the boatyard continued the diagonal near the upper right of the photo all the way to the stern. As should be obvious, that interferes with lifting a dinghy tight against the davits.

"It's fine having the dinghy at 45 degrees, people do it all the time!", they said.

I kicked and screamed until they changed it.
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: Solar and shade

Scott SV Tengah
 

Dean - Great idea with using it as a drone landing pad!

Paul - my arch is not low visual impact, but I am pretty confident it can handle anything we throw at it. See attached - please ignore the clothes lines / mess. :) I paid around 2000euros in Spain for it. 

With my controller near the battery compartment, I ran a pair of 13mm2 wires from the arch to the MPPT. Not sure if there's enough space for 3 pairs. But your solution with the 3 controllers is the. best with respect to minimizing the impact of shading on power production. Also the most expensive!


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: Bamar MEJ1.02

ngtnewington Newington
 

Wow that was a comprehensive answer. Thanks Arno. Not sure yet what I will do as I am in the UK for another couple of weeks before gong back to the boat.
Nick
Amelia 
AML54-019


On 28 Sep 2019, at 19:43, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Yes, the grey ones are the thermal sensor. The idea is to put it in the 24 Volt feed line of the switch that operates the furler so when it becomes too hot the furler will cease operation untill it has cooled down. The problem will be that the feed line of the switch is in the cockpit and does not go anywhere near the Boxtron controller. Only the two wires "behind" the switch are led to the Boxtron. The simplest way to way around this is is to assume that overheating will most likely take place during furling the sail (as opposed to unfurling). In that case you can put the sensor in series with the wire from the cockpit switch that makes the Boxtron activate the counter-clockwise (furling) motion.
Alternative you can run two additional cables between the switch and the Boxtron but that will be a pig to put in.
My solution when I was faced wit this problem was to include an interface box to handle the issue (see: https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/message/44275?p=,,,20,0,0,0::relevance,,bamar,20,2,0,29771214,d=5&d=5)
You could also ignore the cable and simply not connect it and make sure you do not overstress the furlers.

Regards,
Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

Re: Solar and shade

SY STELLA
 

Paul, 
i mounted three panels on Stella using a SS structure integrated to the Davits.  Very happy with the low visual impact and functionality.
The panels also make a great drone landing pad!
Pic attached.

Re: Bamar MEJ1.02

Arno Luijten
 

Yes, the grey ones are the thermal sensor. The idea is to put it in the 24 Volt feed line of the switch that operates the furler so when it becomes too hot the furler will cease operation untill it has cooled down. The problem will be that the feed line of the switch is in the cockpit and does not go anywhere near the Boxtron controller. Only the two wires "behind" the switch are led to the Boxtron. The simplest way to way around this is is to assume that overheating will most likely take place during furling the sail (as opposed to unfurling). In that case you can put the sensor in series with the wire from the cockpit switch that makes the Boxtron activate the counter-clockwise (furling) motion.
Alternative you can run two additional cables between the switch and the Boxtron but that will be a pig to put in.
My solution when I was faced wit this problem was to include an interface box to handle the issue (see: https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/message/44275?p=,,,20,0,0,0::relevance,,bamar,20,2,0,29771214,d=5&d=5)
You could also ignore the cable and simply not connect it and make sure you do not overstress the furlers.

Regards,
Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

Re: Chain and Anchor

Paul Brown
 

I also have a Waelder chain and for the last two years it has shown no issues around the Med, but I was anchored in Villefranche for a couple of weeks last month and noticed that it had some stains that appeared to be rust when I retrieved it, however it doesn’t appear to be permanent and perhaps only from the local weed or something on the bottom. I have not had any other issues with it and I anchor the majority of the time. 

Has or will the surface rust disappear or was it just from the local area?

Regards, Paul - Fortuna II 55/17

On 28 Sep 2019, at 20:14, Alexander Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...> wrote:

I bought the best available Waelder chain 1,5 years ago. Up here at the U.S. east coast she stays nice but in the Caribbean it instantly showed surface rust. Didn't like to see that and was constantly cleaning. A friend on another boat in the Caribbean had his Waelder showing serious pitting after only 4 years. So it really depends where you are using your chain, but Waelder is definitely overselling the quality of their product in warm/salty  waters. I won't buy it again.
Alex 
NO STRESS 
Amel54#15

Re: Chain and Anchor

Alexander Ramseyer
 

I bought the best available Waelder chain 1,5 years ago. Up here at the U.S. east coast she stays nice but in the Caribbean it instantly showed surface rust. Didn't like to see that and was constantly cleaning. A friend on another boat in the Caribbean had his Waelder showing serious pitting after only 4 years. So it really depends where you are using your chain, but Waelder is definitely overselling the quality of their product in warm/salty  waters. I won't buy it again.
Alex 
NO STRESS 
Amel54#15

Antal 120 X 18 block for Genoa

Alexander Ramseyer
 

My 2005 built 54 runs with the original Antal 120 X 18 genoa sheet blocks from the same year. What are the recommondations of this group regarding aging blocks replacements? The blocks still run fine, but I just read about a terrible accident where a breaking block hit a sailor (not on an AMEL) really hard.
Thanks, Alex
NO STRESS 
Amel54#15

Re: Solar and shade

Paul Brown
 

Hi Scott,

thank you for the information, it would be great assistance if you could send some photos, I like your idea of combining the arch with the davits, it would maintain the SWL of the davit system I expect well.

I’m intending to run a set of wires for each panel from the panels to the controller in the event that perhaps  individual controllers are the answer down the track. I know a catamaran owner that has I think around ten panels and each has its own controller, he said this system works great reducing the shading effect.

Thank you again for your assistance.

Kind regards, Paul Fortuna II 55/17

On 28 Sep 2019, at 19:02, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:

I have an A54, but I installed three 320W LG Neon2 panels in parallel on an arch that while it can probably stand on its own, is also attached to the top of the Simpson Davits. I called Simpson and they stated that they can't openly recommend doing what I did because it might deform the tubing on the Davits, making sliding in and out difficult, but off the record it'd probably be OK.

I would not suggest putting the weight of all the panels on the davits alone without additional connections to the stern.

If you'd like, I can take some photos of my setup. It's held in 70 knot winds, so the strength seems sufficient.

Separate controllers would help reduce the effects of shading, for sure. We just went parallel instead. FYI I went for the Victron 150v/35amp model because the literature suggested that the MPPT is good for 1000w systems and mine is rated for 960w. I can attest that my LG panels have hit the 35amp limit on sunny days, so if I'd do it again, I'd upsize the MPPT.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: Parts4Engines - Vendor Experience

Gary Wells
 

I had a similarly favorable experience with them. 
Although it was just for a spare starter motor  that has  yet to be installed. 
Still, fast service and good pricing vs. oem. 

Gary W.
SM209, "Adagio"
Maryland, USA

Re: Solar and shade

Scott SV Tengah
 

I have an A54, but I installed three 320W LG Neon2 panels in parallel on an arch that while it can probably stand on its own, is also attached to the top of the Simpson Davits. I called Simpson and they stated that they can't openly recommend doing what I did because it might deform the tubing on the Davits, making sliding in and out difficult, but off the record it'd probably be OK.

I would not suggest putting the weight of all the panels on the davits alone without additional connections to the stern.

If you'd like, I can take some photos of my setup. It's held in 70 knot winds, so the strength seems sufficient.

Separate controllers would help reduce the effects of shading, for sure. We just went parallel instead. FYI I went for the Victron 150v/35amp model because the literature suggested that the MPPT is good for 1000w systems and mine is rated for 960w. I can attest that my LG panels have hit the 35amp limit on sunny days, so if I'd do it again, I'd upsize the MPPT.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Bamar MEJ1.02

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hello fellow owners’

I have bought a new motor for my staysail furling from the Bamar distributor in the UK, at about £750, it had better last! The old motor had only two cables; the red and black 24v power supply. The new motor has an extra grey cable that comprises two smaller wires. I am not sure what they are for and where to connect them within the Buxton box. Maybe some kind of thermal sensor??

Does anyone know?

Kind regards

Nick

Amelia

AML 54-019 Kefalonia

Re: Headsail furler issues

 

I believe that you probably need to inspect the brushes on the motor. Might just need cleaning, but that age SM, they likely need to be replaced. 

Most SM first owners bought spare brushes. Search your boat. Those Valeo solenoids are probably the best to use with a likely 20 year life. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Yacht Owners School - www.AmelYachtOwnersSchool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Sat, Sep 28, 2019, 4:00 AM Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:

Hi, almost certainly carbon brushes, either stuck or worn

 Not hard to fix

 Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 28 September 2019 at 17:00 Adam Body <adamgcbody@...> wrote:

Our headsail furler has developed a problem. Our boat is a 1994 Super Maramu, previously named Amelie IV and renamed Flora. Located in Greenwell Point, NSW, Australia. The solenoids are both working (ie clicking). The furler rotates one direction but not the other direction. Each solenoid clicks when activated by the switch in the cockpit.  There is no noise or action in the furler motor or mechanism whne we attempt to rotate the furler in the direction it does not work. Does anyone have suggestions as to the best palce to start to investiage the problem? 
Thanks and regards Adam
1994 Super Maramu "Flora"  SM No. 128 1994 

Re: Parts4Engines - Vendor Experience

jlm@jlmertz.fr
 

Hello Ian

I bought for CottonBay a new turbo on www.turbolader.net

I pay 540 euros + 20 euros for shipping to France

Nice service

JLMERTZ




Le 28/09/2019 à 05:18, Ian Townsend a écrit :
The turbocharger on our Volvo TMD22 needed replacing in a hurry. After consulting with Bill Rouse and online searcing for a source in the USA, we found an OEM Perkins-Garrett replacement for $850 USD at "parts4engines.com". They are based in the UK. Volvo wanted $4,000 USD for the exact same part. Parts4engines.com delivered it in 48 hours from the UK to Maryland. Great service. Jeremy is the guy to deal with. Thought this might be helpful to some AMEL owners. 

Ian
Loca Lola II
SM153
Herrington Harbour, MD

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com

Re: Headsail furler issues

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi, almost certainly carbon brushes, either stuck or worn

 Not hard to fix

 Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 28 September 2019 at 17:00 Adam Body <adamgcbody@...> wrote:

Our headsail furler has developed a problem. Our boat is a 1994 Super Maramu, previously named Amelie IV and renamed Flora. Located in Greenwell Point, NSW, Australia. The solenoids are both working (ie clicking). The furler rotates one direction but not the other direction. Each solenoid clicks when activated by the switch in the cockpit.  There is no noise or action in the furler motor or mechanism whne we attempt to rotate the furler in the direction it does not work. Does anyone have suggestions as to the best palce to start to investiage the problem? 
Thanks and regards Adam
1994 Super Maramu "Flora"  SM No. 128 1994 

Re: Solar and shade

Paul Brown
 

Hi Joerg,

I have two large panels over the dingy davits and fixed to the Simpson Davis and are wired in parallel which works if one panel is shaded... I’m working with a stainless steel designer to manufacture a platform that will house 4 large panels providing max power 1320w/24v which realistically should produce around Max 32A continuous under normal operating solar conditions e.g. full direct sun and raise the panels to around mizzen  boom height to reduce shading issues and allow ample head room when disembarking via the passerella 

Also mounting all 4 panels above the davits allow simple wiring through the davits and the lazarette and simple to wire 2x2 in parallel to reduce assist the shading effects

I hope to a achieve an aesthetic structure and stable for high winds with the Simpson Davits not being over loaded while gaining more rigidity into the Davit structure, I saw similar structures recently on many catamarans at the Cannes boat show

I considered mounting the two additional panels above the wheel house but I figure so many issues with shading and increased wiring and additional holes, also it may restrict the use of the sliding roof

If there is a more practical and better way to gain this level of generation and maximise its production with reduced shading effect by positioning then any assistant or comments would be greatly appreciated 

Kind regards Paul - Fortuna II 55/17






On 28 Sep 2019, at 8:41 am, Joerg Esdorn via Groups.Io <jhe1313@...> wrote:

I’m thinking about where to add more solar to my boat and the wheel house of the A55 is an obvious place.  Problem is that the space is often shaded by the boom, particularly at anchor.  Would it help to use two panels - one on starboard and one on port - with separate controllers?  

Joerg Esdorn 
A55 Kincsem
Currently in Cascais 

Solar and shade

Joerg Esdorn
 

I’m thinking about where to add more solar to my boat and the wheel house of the A55 is an obvious place.  Problem is that the space is often shaded by the boom, particularly at anchor.  Would it help to use two panels - one on starboard and one on port - with separate controllers?  

Joerg Esdorn 
A55 Kincsem
Currently in Cascais 

Headsail furler issues

Adam Body
 

I have run through the search function on this site and located some very useful posts on solenoids. The rotation that is failing is the "in" direction. I have pushed the button on the bottom of the "in" solenoid and the furler works---sometimes. So it does seem to be the solenoid. The four solenoids for the windlass and headsail are all the same: Valeo 24 V K93's.  I think they are original! So my next question is: what is the best up-to- date solenoid to replace these??
Adam Body "Flora"  (previously Ammelie IV) SM 0030017SM 128 Annee 1994

Headsail furler issues

Adam Body
 

Our headsail furler has developed a problem. Our boat is a 1994 Super Maramu, previously named Amelie IV and renamed Flora. Located in Greenwell Point, NSW, Australia. The solenoids are both working (ie clicking). The furler rotates one direction but not the other direction. Each solenoid clicks when activated by the switch in the cockpit.  There is no noise or action in the furler motor or mechanism whne we attempt to rotate the furler in the direction it does not work. Does anyone have suggestions as to the best palce to start to investiage the problem? 
Thanks and regards Adam
1994 Super Maramu "Flora"  SM No. 128 1994 

Parts4Engines - Vendor Experience

Ian Townsend
 

The turbocharger on our Volvo TMD22 needed replacing in a hurry. After consulting with Bill Rouse and online searcing for a source in the USA, we found an OEM Perkins-Garrett replacement for $850 USD at "parts4engines.com". They are based in the UK. Volvo wanted $4,000 USD for the exact same part. Parts4engines.com delivered it in 48 hours from the UK to Maryland. Great service. Jeremy is the guy to deal with. Thought this might be helpful to some AMEL owners. 

Ian
Loca Lola II
SM153
Herrington Harbour, MD