Dean, I've winterized my SM for the last two years. For the watermaker I did as Mark from Balcen (Dessalator USA distributor) suggested and used marine/rv anti-freeze and it seems to have worked fine

Dean, I used Starbrite pink antifreeze the last two winters here in the Chesapeake and it has worked well. I used it for all systems including: air conditioning, heads, anchor wash, watermaker, freshw

Dean, No problem. You should be able to clean up your flowmeter glass as it all comes apart pretty easily. On the SM Amel wired it with plenty of slack so I could drop it on the galley counter and wor

Eamonn, I am by no means an expert on this but I'm pretty sure that the rubber sleeve's purpose is to keep seawater out not to keep oil in so tightening those hose clamps should not stop an oil leak.

Here's a link to a copy of an MT3 Manual circa 1990: https://www.freewebs.com/svkarenm/MORSE_engine_control_mt-3.pdf For future reference, it helps other members help you if you add your model and hul

Paul, Keep in mind that Bill started his trip in 2006 and ended in 2016. BEFORE Hurricane Irma and Maria.

Dominique, I agree with what most of the others have said here. It is highly unlikely that the cable itself is the problem. It is way more likely to be a loose, corroded, or damaged termination on eit

I just replaced my engine mounts and the goddamn pain-in-the-ass bloody Vetus coupling a few weeks ago so I have some recent experience with this topic. I considered using the cockpit coamings as the

Paul, Cara is a 2004 Super Maramu with 1885 hours on the engine. The rubber on the rear mounts were completely shot.

Mike, I did my first bowthruster service this past winter and used a 29x42x8 seal. It was a tight fit but it works. The seal I replaced was also a 29mm ID seal. There was no oil leaking from the seal

Mike, No problem. JL Mertz's Speedi-Sleeve idea is a good one too as the surface finish on the shaft is really not good enough to ensure a good seal with the oil seal. Regarding the Annapolis Boat Sho

We had it done to our Super Maramu last winter. It was done by a very experienced contractor 20 miles south of Annapolis who has over 25 years of experience with soda blasting boat hulls. I made it cl

Just a friendly reminder to my fellow Amel owners to do a regular check on the shaft seal that sits over the main furler cylinder. It's the one circled in RED in the picture below: I would advise you

Bill, I think some of the confusion has actually come from Amel. Alan Grayson of Ora Pai (SM #406) recently rebuilt his Main Furler Assembly with parts from Amel. They sent him a parts list that showe

Gary, Perfect timing! This is next on my To Do list after rebuilding the Main Furler. Thank you!

Bob, I'm pretty sure Danny is referring to the 60mm x 80mm x 12mm lip seal for the Bowthruster tube, not the one for the Bowthruster propeller. This one:

Tom, You are not alone in your trepidation as to when to pull the trigger on LiFePO4. I am right there with you. I have read the posts from Scott (Tengah), Paul (Fortuna II), Thomas (Garulfo) and Pere

Thanks for the information, Olivier. Much appreciated! As promised, here is the complete list of parts that I used to overhaul the Manual Mainsail Furler assembly on Super Maramu Cara Hull #440: Beari

Scott, I agree 100% that if possible, disassembling the part that you are rebuilding first and checking what is already installed before ordering replacement parts is the best course of action to take

Paul, In the Super Maramu there is a large nut at the top of the post. You tighten it by turning it clockwise looking at it from above. The general recommendation is to turn it 1/6 of a turn at a time