Duane, Generally, temp sensors work off of resistance with high resistance when cold and much lower resistance as the medium gets hotter. You can use a cup of room temperature water and boiling water

Brian, Your are just a bit too late as everyone is departing this week for points East and South. We keep our SM in the Middle Chesapeake but that's a four hour drive north. The Chesapeake Bay really

Craig, I'm 99% sure it's M20 x 2.5 thread pitch.

Mark, The first picture is correct. The second is not. Olivier Beaute chimed in on this topic towards the end this thread: https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/topic/33139860#47902

Paul, People use the term "Pulley Puller" and "Bearing Puller" interchangeably. They are similar tools and sometimes either one can be used to do the same job but in this case you really need a Bearin

Paul, I used a bearing puller:

Matt, Thanks. I found another good article on changing the filter here: http://www.marshmarine.net/index_14.htm

Mark, I should have asked this question in my first post but what model Yanmar engine is it? If its newer one with electronically controlled fuel injection via an Electronic Control Unit (ECU) than my

Jose, Welcome to the group. Check out this manual (from the files section of this forum): https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/files/Amel%20Super%20Maramu%20Manuals%20English/Amel%20Super%20Maramu

You could have some water in the diesel tank. The fact that the boat has been sitting idle for a few months has given plenty of time for condensation to form inside the tank and settle to the bottom o

Mark, Older diesel engines need three things to keep on running: 1. Fuel 2. Air 3. Compression The overwhelming majority of the time an issue like you describe will be fuelling related. Have you check

I found a good article on how Racor fuel filters work and thought I would share it here since many of us have these on our boats: https://www.racornews.com/single-post/2016/1/25/Mythbusters-Fuel-Filte

Karen, That sure is much different than the elbow on my Onan MDKAV 7kW. Mine looks much more like the one from Nikimat's MDKAL. If you do end up replacing yours with a new one, let me know. I will hap

Karen, I stand corrected! It looks like that there is a small water jacket in the Onan Exhaust elbow after all. Here is a picture that I found looking down the the back side of one on Alex from Nikima

Paul, Lot's of good information on the main furler in this thread: https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/topic/29770769#43884 and in this Photo Album: https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/album

Karen, Are you talking about the Onan Exhaust Elbow or the Onan Exhaust Manifold? See the picture below: The Exhaust Elbow looks like a fabricated part that does NOT have a water jacket. The Exhaust M

Orion, The exhaust elbow is a relatively complex geometry that also fits into a fairly tight space. While I am sure replicating it from measurements and sketches alone could be done, the chances of ge

Karen, I just looked up the price for a replacement for this part. US$2,269 is absolutely insane! I could make them out of 316 Stainless Steel for way less than that. I have to remove mine this winter

Paul, The track is Lewmar Size 1. It would appear that Bill used: 1 x Size 1 End Stop With Single CL Sheave (Lewmar Part # 29471031BK): https://www.lewmar.com/node/13230?v=26088 1 x Size 1 End Stop Wi

Paul, Bill Kinney did a blog post about how he did it on SM Harmonie: https://fetchinketch.net/boat-projects/mizzen-traveler/