Paul, The track is Lewmar Size 1. It would appear that Bill used: 1 x Size 1 End Stop With Single CL Sheave (Lewmar Part # 29471031BK): https://www.lewmar.com/node/13230?v=26088 1 x Size 1 End Stop Wi

Paul, Bill Kinney did a blog post about how he did it on SM Harmonie: https://fetchinketch.net/boat-projects/mizzen-traveler/

Tom, Looks great! I might have to give that a try. I did find something called Polytrol on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Owatrol-Polytrol-Color-Restorer-500ml/dp/B008F7W6M0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_to

Does the PCB in the control box look like the one in the picture below:

Paul, In the Super Maramu there is a large nut at the top of the post. You tighten it by turning it clockwise looking at it from above. The general recommendation is to turn it 1/6 of a turn at a time

Scott, I agree 100% that if possible, disassembling the part that you are rebuilding first and checking what is already installed before ordering replacement parts is the best course of action to take

Thanks for the information, Olivier. Much appreciated! As promised, here is the complete list of parts that I used to overhaul the Manual Mainsail Furler assembly on Super Maramu Cara Hull #440: Beari

Tom, You are not alone in your trepidation as to when to pull the trigger on LiFePO4. I am right there with you. I have read the posts from Scott (Tengah), Paul (Fortuna II), Thomas (Garulfo) and Pere

Bob, I'm pretty sure Danny is referring to the 60mm x 80mm x 12mm lip seal for the Bowthruster tube, not the one for the Bowthruster propeller. This one:

Gary, Perfect timing! This is next on my To Do list after rebuilding the Main Furler. Thank you!

Bill, I think some of the confusion has actually come from Amel. Alan Grayson of Ora Pai (SM #406) recently rebuilt his Main Furler Assembly with parts from Amel. They sent him a parts list that showe

Just a friendly reminder to my fellow Amel owners to do a regular check on the shaft seal that sits over the main furler cylinder. It's the one circled in RED in the picture below: I would advise you

We had it done to our Super Maramu last winter. It was done by a very experienced contractor 20 miles south of Annapolis who has over 25 years of experience with soda blasting boat hulls. I made it cl

Mike, No problem. JL Mertz's Speedi-Sleeve idea is a good one too as the surface finish on the shaft is really not good enough to ensure a good seal with the oil seal. Regarding the Annapolis Boat Sho

Mike, I did my first bowthruster service this past winter and used a 29x42x8 seal. It was a tight fit but it works. The seal I replaced was also a 29mm ID seal. There was no oil leaking from the seal

Paul, Cara is a 2004 Super Maramu with 1885 hours on the engine. The rubber on the rear mounts were completely shot.

I just replaced my engine mounts and the goddamn pain-in-the-ass bloody Vetus coupling a few weeks ago so I have some recent experience with this topic. I considered using the cockpit coamings as the

Dominique, I agree with what most of the others have said here. It is highly unlikely that the cable itself is the problem. It is way more likely to be a loose, corroded, or damaged termination on eit

Paul, Keep in mind that Bill started his trip in 2006 and ended in 2016. BEFORE Hurricane Irma and Maria.

Here's a link to a copy of an MT3 Manual circa 1990: https://www.freewebs.com/svkarenm/MORSE_engine_control_mt-3.pdf For future reference, it helps other members help you if you add your model and hul