Paul, I am assuming that you are pulling packing from a bronze stuffing box? If so, I normally use about a long #8 deck screw that will easily thread into the packing. Only run it maybe 1/2-2/3 of the

David, We cleaned the tanks in our Maramu and they were much worse than your, in fact we even had live snails living in there! There was also significant amount of sediment in the aft low end of the t

Ken, Great news! Glad to hear that your all back together and that you decided to rebed the whole chainplate. You should be leak free in that area for a couple of decades or so. Try to avoid getting o

Ken, I have worked on boats that used the butyl tape and use it myself for applications. It is good stuff overall and I always carry some on the boat. Works best it seems on mating parts that keep pre

Ken, Your plan should get you sealed back up. I didn't mention my recommendations for a sealant since I assume that you have a limited selection to pick from. The 5200 or 4200 will work for you. If yo

Ken, My boat is a 1987 Maramu so consider this information general in nature to your situation. I would suggest that you start by removing one bolt to see what kind of sealant was used originally. If

Ken, Thanks for the response. To me a good Depthsounder has always been very important and I will usually leave one on even while we are anchored as additional confirmation that all is well when doing

Ken, That is a heartstopping event to even ponder! I can see why you appreciate the Echo Sounder as much as you do. One question. Is there an alarm on this unit or do you have to be watching the scree

Ken and All, I searched for one of the Echo Pilot 2D units (part #81034 with the bronze transducer housing) from US stores and found no stock. Also a statement on one website that said that the manufa

Ken, I was originally thinking of something that would interface with my B&G display but I think that you make a really good point about having a stand alone system in this case. It helps a lot to hea

Ken, A great educated/ personal review of FLS. Your logic concerning the value and useage of FLS seems sound to me. This is timely as I am looking at adding FLS to our boat. Recognizing that this seem

Arno,. You are correct, the Divinycell won't rot if water gets in. For a boat with a teak deck that has fastener holes I would prefer the Divinycell since with that many holes water is going to get in

Bill, I am glad that you pointed out the concern of leakage into the core from cracks as this does happen. Not all cracks are the same, some are a concern and some aren’t and telling the difference is

A mid range Divinycell (H80) has a compressive strength of about 174 PSI (http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/pdf/core/hmanm.pdf) End grain balsa core has a compressive strength of around 1,837 PSI accord

Bill, Thanks so much for alerting me to this potential problem. I will remove the hatch as you suggested and will seal the core at every deck penetration. I will also use filled epoxy for this job jus

Bill and Karen, You know your stuff Bill, thanks for the alert on the exposed balsa core. When it comes to balsa core, prevention of damage is certainly far preferable to replacement! End grain balsa

Philippe, My boat is a 1987 model Maramu. Removal of the electric powered gearbox at the bottom is simple. Just remove the four lower bolts. I was unable to remove the manual gearbox on my boat after

Arlo, My apologies. After taking a closer look, I think that Craig is correct that what you have is a fuel water separator that does not have a filter inside. I was looking at the top portion of your

Arlo, This looks like the same CAV filter used on my 1987 Maramu. Here is a link showing the CAV filter for comparison to yours:https://www.parts4engines.com/perkins-4236-fuel-filter-assembly/ To chan

Nick, I would be looking at about $4,400 USD (I found a US supplier) for 300’ of the 8mm which is a little less than 2.5 times the cost of the Aqua7 grade 70 that we are using now. (We are using the g