Erice, We replaced the delaminating wooden companionway with plexiglass - one of the best changes we've made as it adds wonderful light down below. We used a slightly tinted version that looks mirror-

Eric, Removing the dodger is difficult but certainly do-able. The trick is to absolutely NOT pry it up, as you will invariably chip the fiberglass. We applied upward pressure with a halyard while cutt

Ciao Attilio, If your B&G Sonic Speed isn't working, I'd be more suspicious of a bad electrical connection than fouling on the two sensors (and Sisila always has a clean bottom :-) As I recall, there'

Hi Kent, Sounds like it (hopefully) could be the shaft coupling, rather than an internat gear failure in the "C" drive. Fairly easy to check out if you just loosen the 4 bolts holding the coupling tog

Gary, I agree with "Bebe Bill" that it's usually the hose becoming permeated with odor. Following is from a post I made a couple of years ago - it's still odor free after 7 years! "On my Santorin I re

Hi Kent, The unit you mention with the 4 rubber sleeves on the 4 steel pins is, indeed, the flexible coupling between your transmission and the "C" drive. It's a VETUS brand Type 6 (Google it - not to

Hi Kent, From your comment in your post about the Yanmar (quoted below), it looks like you've had to go back to Amel to replace your "C" Drive input shaft, I'm sure at great expense. Just curious as t

Colin, It sounds as though you are "on-the-hard" (unless you changed the prop and oil seal underwater), hence I'd recommend you simply drop the unit, turn it over to drain the old oil, refill and rein

Hi Colin, First, to your Question #3: Yes, you definitely want the lip seal facing in. That is, the open side where you see the spring should face inwards (to retain the oil). If you've got some rough

Hey Attilio, Actually, it's just SANGARIS who's in Leros - Katherine and I are still in sunny Florida but head back June 4. Our SSB was (I believe) installed by AMEL when the boat was new and there is

Glad you got it fixed, Colin. I would posit that your leak was due to the seal being slightly cocked and by pressing it all the way in you've squared it off and the outer edge is now making full conta

Try a search on en.buscoamarre.com There are many listings from private slip owners, often with good prices. Craig Briggs SN#68 SANGARIS

We picked the Santorin back in 1999, but since both are now 20-25 years old, the Santorin being newer may be less of a factor, although the Santorin has the "modern" hull design and the "C" drive. IMO

Sorry to hear that, Jose, especially with your schedule. Per my earlier post you copied below, you'll want to contact ACMO in France, who is Amel's rigging supplier. Call Sylvie Gazzurelli there at (3

Kent - were you able to specify the 316L that ACMO uses vs. standard 316? If Jose can get ACMO to ship it express, I think it could well be as quick and cheap (how much did you pay?) plus it's by defi

Pat, Sorry I wasn't more explicit - indeed ACMO uses Marine Bronze for the turnbuckle body - it's the toggles and stud bolts that are made of 316L stainless. Craig

William - A quick Google search gave many suppliers; seems you can easily pick one near you (don't know where you are). Here's one for example: http://cpc.farnell.com/finder/65-31-8-230-0000/relay-fla

We had an excellent experience in Montflacone, Italy, at Nautec Mare. Contact Karl Keller or the office - very good price either in the water or hard standing and exceptional reasonably priced work. T

Does anyone have the dimensions of the Lip Seal for the Propellor Shaft of the Bow Thruster? Many thanks, Craig Briggs Santorin #68 - Sangaris - about to splash in Leros, GR

Hi Graham, Since Europe is OK, the best choice for you is ACMO, who made the original rigging for your boat. They have the exact specs, of course, including the special headstay turnbuckle. Make one m