Hi Ian - glad it all worked out and appreciate the feedback. Craig

Hi Paul, It's been a while but as I recall you can disassemble the frame members around the "C" drive upper and then easily slip in the new mounts. The "C" drive is happy to sit by itself on its "trum

Hi Nick, That you've got a spare with you suggests you can easily do this yourself. With a couple of dock-mates you can likely do it in half a day - it is not rocket science. There are several posts o

Hi Bernd, This is one of those questions that sits on the border of engineering and philosophy, with no clear winner. Much like "What is the "best" anchor". I'd encourage you to read the many past pos

Ben, Some more info would help. When you say, "Basically only the alternators." - does that mean you have more than one engine alternator? When you say "I will change the battery ..." does that mean y

Paul, Can't give you specifics for a retrofit, but it just takes a reversing valve on your A/C to make heat (maybe some control stuff, too) - about a $150 option when first installed. Maybe reasonable

How do you spell "envious"?

So, Courtney, it's going down to 41° F / 5°C tonight in Brunswick! Brrr. Give it a try and it will: 1 - clear and burn out any dust in the burner and ducts, 2 - freshen up the diesel fuel in the pump

Hi Bill - Perhaps another advantage of the SN having the same beefy hardware as her big sister. Cheers,

Preventive maintenance is great, but this may be in the category of, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." Two cents, of course. SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL

Suggest you use six Mitsteuns. That's 402kg / 888lbs - should be fine for your 85T & accessories/frame and "C" drive partial load. Plus, I think the combination hydraulic/rubber design may be an advan

Matt & Michelle, Generally agree with your observations (terrible installer, etc.). However, when you say Beta must build and test "all options presented to potential customers" to receive a Kubota wa

Hi Ian, Interesting. We're 1992 built Hull 68 - I've assumed it was an Amel installation as the holes in the bottom of the stanchion bases and the holes where the wire exits the tubing are identical t

Hi Dave on Liesse, Frankly, your mast head lights seem an excellent (original AMEL) choice all by themselves, but if you want deck level lights too the wires of our AMEL installed lights (SN68) were r

Hi Dan, Just a word of caution about the iron backing plate. If you can't remove it completely, you may want to passivate what's left with phosphoric acid to prevent it from swelling up and distorting

Hi Volker, I totally agree with Ian's comments. That your genoa furler works well (unlike your main & outhaul) is great. My only recommendation would be to do some preventive maintenance on it and rep

Another way to skin the cat - tape plastic over the inside of a large area like windows, put in a hole and blow in air from small shop vac, Leave air running and spray diluted dish soap on outside and

Rudy and José, While one possibility is leaking around BT seals, I'd suggest also carefully checking the head/anchor wash intake manifold coming off the thru-hull valve. Mine got pinhole corrosion lea

Hi Chris, We've done this three times on our SN which has a 6kw Northern Lights genset. Very easy to do with the ship's halyards and then you can swing it over the dock with the main boom - no boatyar

Hi Pat - check out coppercoatusa.com - they list an SM as needing 18 "Kits" for $2340. Site is a "must read and study". It is a totally different animal than conventional bottom paint and requires 4 c