Thanks, John - glad I asked as I had indeed misunderstood. So it sounds like you cut out a rectangular section of the engine room ceiling that had held the seat pole base, presumably a bit bigger than

Hi John - many thanks for the info. Just to be sure I understand correctly, did you cut out a section of the pyramidal base that the pipe goes through and that is above the cockpit floor and then did

Barry & Penny, I had UK Sailmakers in Turkey make a new main for us. Can't say enough about their rep, Hulkie Oruz (spelling?). He's a seasoned sailor (international judge etc.) who really knows his s

Thanks, John, Just so I'm sure I understand, when you say you "cut access from the engine room", was that just cutting access in the "egg-crate" dimpled foam sound dampening material or did you actual

Hi Ian, Your picture of the bottom looks exactly like mine. On top, though, I have only a single pipe going straight up to the seat. It seems pretty certain that a prior owner of your boat must have c

My take is it probably does not matter which you use as the inside of the furler is not a particularly challenging environment - pretty much sealed, low rpm, heat only from sun and ambient temp. . I u

So I finally got around to trying to fix the seat wobble. Cutting through the insulation in the engine room under the seat I found two bolts going through a plate welded to the bottom of the seat pipe

Hi Berndt, I don't have that on my SN. Perhaps it's that newly discovered teredo navalis species that mutated after Chernobyl and is now infesting fiberglass boats.

Jamie, You!

Under Bills "#7 - Something else" we had a failed hose clamp where the pump output hose connected to the copper pipe that runs along the hull to serve the faucets. It was buried in the engine room ins

May just join you in St Mary's at that price - thanks for the info!

Kelly - The $4000-$4500 I quoted was "ballpark" for the two months the original post spoke about. Crackerboy's 2019 rates, for example, were $1.50 per foot per day plus a $5 per day "Utility" charge.

Kevin & Kristen, In addition to Playboy in Dania, there's also Cracker Boy in either Riviera Beach (West Palm) or in Fort Pierce. All three will be in the $4000-4500 range for two months on the hard p

Hi Ben, You can repair or replace this if you are willing to remove it. It would be best to have the tank near empty or low as you will be gushing fuel for a few seconds after you remove the "tap" and

Thanks, Michael - mine were so corroded as to be unrecognizable - I'll shop for tiny ones - I've got some on my radio controlled model sailboat so maybe a hobby shop. Brass would be best, for sure.

Greetings all, The aluminum channels for the overhead hatch curtains (that the plastic curtain slides go into) are coming down as the fasteners have corroded. At first, I thought they were wood screws

Hi Willem, An option I used was to remove the boom and take it to a machine shop with a proper press and blocking pieces. Easier and less prone to damage from pounding, etc. Plus inexpensive and not d

Roman & Ira, If you go to Photos and Search for C-Drive you will get some pictures from when I pulled mine that may be helpful. In particular, you'll see how you have to cut away the fairing to get at

Bill, David - Good points Bill. I think I may have read David's original post a bit differently - not that the engine speeds up or slows down a lot or for very long, but that it is simply "unloading"

Just a shot in the dark, but could it be an AC circuit breaker failing? Try either replacing them or, to diagnose, temporarily hard wire across them and see if it holds.