Just guessing, but have you tried totally disconnecting the cable from the transmission shift lever and shifting it by hand, thus absolutely eliminating adjustment as even a remote possibility? Also,

Hi Arlo, My two cents. If I recall correctly, your original post said you were simply wanting to do routine maintenance of changing the fuel filter and you wondered if the water separator was another

Love my Mantus and would never switch (unless a new new thing comes out), but one time it was so solidly set that the shank bent about 30° while retrieving it in the morning after an overnight current

Hi James & Arlo, It's not an issue as I don't think Arlo is looking for a replacement, but the CAV unit James linked is quite different and doesn't have the "sedimenter sensor" as the Perkins version

Hi Arlo, That looks like a filter but it is actually a Perkins pre-filter water separator (no filter inside). It has two wires coming out the bottom from a "fuel sedimenter sensor" that activates your

Hi Pat, If you run 800 psi in fresh water you will definitely damage your membrane. You want to limit the product water flow to that rated for the membrane in terms of LPH or GPH, definitely not the 8

HI Tom, I think I'm the guy whose name escaped you. No problem - it's not the first time ;-) I posted a while ago that the belief you cannot run in brackish water is a long standing "old wives tale" a

Not sure what your "green zone" translates to in bars as I have a gauge with numbers and 60 bars +/- is where these operate (actually I usually get good tds at 850 psi / 58 bars). These pumps typicall

Hi José, Next time just remove the thermostat (don't put in the spare). It is not too important anyway as it simply allows the engine to come up to temperature more quickly by restricting the cooling

Since you are starting to distort the nut, you might try a "vice grip" locking pliers adjusted very tight. Plus some PB blaster as Justin suggested.

Hi James, This is clearly not a standard part that can be sourced in the US, but just take your lowering mouse to any machine shop and have them make an identical one out of delrin, but with a notch t

Hi Paul, It may give you more choices in yards not to limit it to soda blasting as conventional sand blasting is fine on the keel, masking off adjacent fiberglass, Enjoy City Island - we sailed out of

Hi again, Dave. When you say you've had a couple of cracks in your rub rail inserts, it sounds like you've got a rigid plastic insert. Eric mentioned that's what he had too. These new inserts are EPDM

Hi Dave, It sure quacks like the balooner halyard not being removed. Although you've not had the balooner up yourself, my guess is it was done by a prior owner and those were bent when you got the boa

Hi Paolo, Now that you confirm there's no 240v involved, it is dollars to donuts just some corrosion in the windlass feed wires inside its housing. And you're right, the windlass, rails and rigging ar

Hi Dave, While it could be a jammed swivel, it is absolutely the classic pretzel you get by furling the genoa without removing the balooner halyard and its releasing "mouse" from the furling extrusion

Hi Michael, Olivier Beaute had a fun quiz on this DB a while ago and asked what the main PVC pipe was on the boat - it was the cockpit drains! They are not GRP fiberglass covered except where they are

Hi Michael, I'm not sure I understand the difference between using PVC in the engine room for a drain, as Amel does for the large diameter cockpit drains which have no water in them above the water li

Hi Tom, That's a boarding step - the mobius twist keeps it open for your foot. Works great in the dinghy or on the side of the boat - just tie it in place with some short stuff. Cheers, Craig -- SN68

Hi Paolo, I see Bill Rouse has assumed you are getting a 220v AC shock whereas I assumed it to be 24v DC. Are you running the generator (or connected to shore power) when you get this shock. If you ar