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Deck Grooves


rossirossix4 <equinoxsolstice@...>
 

Does anyone have any good techniques for darkening the faded dark
grooves in the faux teak decks. I'm OK with the faded "teak"
boards, but want to darken the gooves which have faded and
disappeared in places.

Bob Rossi, Santorin "Hanalei"


minaxi53 <no_reply@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "rossirossix4"
<equinoxsolstice@h...> wrote:
Does anyone have any good techniques for darkening the faded dark
grooves in the faux teak decks. I'm OK with the faded "teak"
boards, but want to darken the gooves which have faded and
disappeared in places.

Bob Rossi, Santorin "Hanalei"
Bob

I have SM6 which obviously is one of the first SM's made. The whole
boat is well maintained and looks good for her age. The decks however
are totally faded. My response? Leave it alone, the longer it ages
and fades the more realistic the "Faux" looks. I have had many people
ask why my SM has real teak and others have fake. That's how real it
looks when it gets really faded. Stick with it, it will look good
later and save you a lot of money/work. That's why Henri hates wood
on deck.
Regards
Bob Linley
SM6 "Minaxi"


M. Ann Harsh <syharmonie@...>
 

Dear Bob, We have SM#160, and our stripes faded, etc. At the
suggestion of friends, Glen and Julie Bradley on SM C'est Assez, we
painted our stripes. We love it as do all who have seen it: our boat
looks new.

The job looks bigger than it is. First we tried "free hand painting
as Julie and Glen did. But we were not steady enough and were not
getting a finished result we liked. We tried taping and doing free
hand again. The deck is not smooth and taping does not stop the
bleeding into the light brown. Again the end result was not good.
Finally we found the paint striper Joel referred to via the internet
from J.C. Whitney, auto parts wholesaler. Our striper was the one
they had at 1/16 of an inch. I now know that there are other sizes
but I do not know where to get them. The 1/16 inch worked fine you
must just go back and forth several times to fill in the whole
groove. The stiper cost about $10 and about the same to mail it to
us.

Instead of the two part polyurethane paint, we used one part. In
discussions with the paint experts we expect this to last around 10
years. It is now 1 year old and looks like new. We painted our
stripes black. Talking to another SM owner who saw our decks, he has
found (or had made a dark brown). It is not a standard color that is
available in the quantity (qt) we wanted. And we think the black
truly makes our decks look like teak. We poured the paint into a
plastic squeeze bottle so I could readily refill the striper as I
painted. Paint etc. cost us about $40.

Now for the work effort. My husband, Ralph, preped sections of the
deck for my painting(about 1 hr. each day I painted). This consisted
of washing, lightly sanding the grooves (he used an edge (pink pearl
eraser) the size of the grooves and then wiping with a sovent to
again clean grooves. These instructions as per the polyurethane can.
I then painted with the striper and used the solvent on a rag around
my finger to take off any stray paint. I also used a fine brush at
times for corners, bends, etc. I was on my hands and knees while
painting and a good knee pad is essential. It took me 9 days to do
the entire deck and I worked no more than 4 hrs a day. I got better
as I went and I waited until we had reasonable weather, not too much
heat. It took another 5 or 6 days to do the cockpit. About 50 hours
in total. The end result is well worth it. By the way, you will be
amazed at the different look (lighter) of the "teak" boards with the
increased contrast.

Good striping!!

Ann and Ralph on SM#160 Harmonie



--- In amelyachtowners@..., "rossirossix4"
<equinoxsolstice@h...> wrote:
Does anyone have any good techniques for darkening the faded dark
grooves in the faux teak decks. I'm OK with the faded "teak"
boards, but want to darken the gooves which have faded and
disappeared in places.

Bob Rossi, Santorin "Hanalei"