[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: 220Volt Power


kimberlite <kimberlt@...>
 

Gary,
That is correct.
That is the way I wired Kimberlite.
Please note that he USA white and green are at the same potential. If
you happen to check the voltage (when plugged into a 220 volt USA
configuration) the voltage between the green and either hot leg you will
find 110 volts.
Just to prevent plugging into some weird power pedestals I installed a
power monitor.
It consists of an ammeter, a voltmeter, a frequency meter, and a circuit
breaker.
I measure what is coming into the boat and if it is satisfactory, I flip
the breaker and let the current run into the Amel ac panel.

Fair Winds,
Eric
S/m 376

-----Original Message-----
From: amelliahona [mailto:no_reply@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2003 10:27 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: 220Volt Power

RE the color codes wires posting earlier:
I have been watching these postings and studying the differences
between USA and European power for some time. I had some questions
about this posting and would like to state my understanding and have
those in the know do a reality check for me. ( NOTE that this
discussion doesn't consider the difference in frequency of the
two
types of power, i.e. 60 Hertz in the USA and 50 Hertz for European
power or the differences in European grounding practices as compared
to the USA. )

Lets start with what I have. The 220 Volt AC cord that comes from
my Amel SM 2000 (Hull # 335) has three wires in it. Alivier
Beauteau told me that it was rated at 30 Amperes at 220 Volts AC.
The color coding is based on the latest European color code and is
as follows:

1. Brown = European Hot
2. Blue = European Neutral
3. Green with Yellow Stripe = European Grounding (or
Safety Ground)

USA 220 Volt AC typically has 4 wires with color codes as follows:

1. Red = USA Hot
2. Black = USA Hot
3. White = USA Neutral for 110 volt
circuits only
4. Green = USA Grounding (of Safety
Ground)

NOW, as you measure Voltage AC (RMS = root mean square voltage,
which is what your digital volt meter more or less shows you)
between the following points you will get the following readings:

EUROPEAN: Between the Brown and Blue Reads 220 Volts AC
Between the Blue and the Green with Yellow Stripe
Reads Zero Volts AC
Between the Brown and the Green with Yellow Stripe
Reads 220 Volts AC


USA: Between the Red and Black Reads 220 Volts AC
Between the Red and White Reads 110 Volts AC
Between the Black and White Reads 110 Volts AC
Between the White and Green Reads Zero Volts AC

When wiring the Amel 220 Volt AC cable from the boat to USA
power the following should be done:

a. The Amel Brown Wire (European Hot) should go to either the
USA Red or Black wire
b. The Amel Blue Wire (European Neutral) should go to the USA
Red or Black wire (whichever the Amel Brown wire isn't connected
to. My understanding, and please somebody correct me if I am wrong,
is that the polarity of these two connections (red and/or black to
blue and/or brown makes no difference).
Finally the Amel Green with Yellow Stripe wire should go to the USA
Green wire.
The USA white wire has nothing connected to it from the European
cable.

The given appliance or load doesn't care about polarity since it
is
alternating current (AC). All the load cares about is that there is
an EMF (ElectroMotive Force) of 220 Volts pushing the electrons back
and forth in the wires of the load (e.g. the lamp, motor etc.) Again
this discussion doesn't take into consideration the frequency
with
which the electrons are moved back and forth (Hertz). If I
understand it correctly the naming of the wires (Hot, Neutral etc is
somewhat arbitrary) and hence confusing at times.

So there you have it, the distillation of my many sources. I have
an electronics background but there we deal mostly with DC voltage
and theory. I have approached two commercial electricians here in
the USA to verify the differences between USA and European power and
they both stammered and stuttered until I had basically no
confidence in their confused explanations. I haven't tried
wiring
up my Amel to this standard yet so if someone else would try it out
and let me know if anything smokes I can then refine the theory
further. Please, your comments and criticisms are welcome.

Sincerely, Gary Silver s/v Liahona currently in Tortola at
Nanny Cay






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amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

RE the color codes wires posting earlier:
I have been watching these postings and studying the differences
between USA and European power for some time. I had some questions
about this posting and would like to state my understanding and have
those in the know do a reality check for me. ( NOTE that this
discussion doesn't consider the difference in frequency of the
two
types of power, i.e. 60 Hertz in the USA and 50 Hertz for European
power or the differences in European grounding practices as compared
to the USA. )

Lets start with what I have. The 220 Volt AC cord that comes from
my Amel SM 2000 (Hull # 335) has three wires in it. Alivier
Beauteau told me that it was rated at 30 Amperes at 220 Volts AC.
The color coding is based on the latest European color code and is
as follows:

1. Brown = European Hot
2. Blue = European Neutral
3. Green with Yellow Stripe = European Grounding (or
Safety Ground)

USA 220 Volt AC typically has 4 wires with color codes as follows:

1. Red = USA Hot
2. Black = USA Hot
3. White = USA Neutral for 110 volt
circuits only
4. Green = USA Grounding (of Safety
Ground)

NOW, as you measure Voltage AC (RMS = root mean square voltage,
which is what your digital volt meter more or less shows you)
between the following points you will get the following readings:

EUROPEAN: Between the Brown and Blue Reads 220 Volts AC
Between the Blue and the Green with Yellow Stripe
Reads Zero Volts AC
Between the Brown and the Green with Yellow Stripe
Reads 220 Volts AC


USA: Between the Red and Black Reads 220 Volts AC
Between the Red and White Reads 110 Volts AC
Between the Black and White Reads 110 Volts AC
Between the White and Green Reads Zero Volts AC

When wiring the Amel 220 Volt AC cable from the boat to USA
power the following should be done:

a. The Amel Brown Wire (European Hot) should go to either the
USA Red or Black wire
b. The Amel Blue Wire (European Neutral) should go to the USA
Red or Black wire (whichever the Amel Brown wire isn't connected
to. My understanding, and please somebody correct me if I am wrong,
is that the polarity of these two connections (red and/or black to
blue and/or brown makes no difference).
Finally the Amel Green with Yellow Stripe wire should go to the USA
Green wire.
The USA white wire has nothing connected to it from the European
cable.

The given appliance or load doesn't care about polarity since it
is
alternating current (AC). All the load cares about is that there is
an EMF (ElectroMotive Force) of 220 Volts pushing the electrons back
and forth in the wires of the load (e.g. the lamp, motor etc.) Again
this discussion doesn't take into consideration the frequency
with
which the electrons are moved back and forth (Hertz). If I
understand it correctly the naming of the wires (Hot, Neutral etc is
somewhat arbitrary) and hence confusing at times.

So there you have it, the distillation of my many sources. I have
an electronics background but there we deal mostly with DC voltage
and theory. I have approached two commercial electricians here in
the USA to verify the differences between USA and European power and
they both stammered and stuttered until I had basically no
confidence in their confused explanations. I haven't tried
wiring
up my Amel to this standard yet so if someone else would try it out
and let me know if anything smokes I can then refine the theory
further. Please, your comments and criticisms are welcome.

Sincerely, Gary Silver s/v Liahona currently in Tortola at
Nanny Cay


kimberlite <kimberlt@...>
 

Why don't you just disconnect the European connector and install a 50
amp 220 volt connector and return the expensive "y" connector and cord?
Eric

-----Original Message-----
From: rossirossix4 [mailto:equinoxsolstice@hotmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2003 6:24 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: 220Volt Power

I had a few AC related questions and thought I would link them to
this earlier discussion about AC power.

I've purchased a Marinco "reverse Y" for my 1993 Santorin and have a
couple of questions. The boat has a 220 cord in its lazarette with
a French? three pronged male fitting on the end using three
straight,round contacts in a "v" arrangement. The plug is labeled
10 amps. Does any one have any recommendations for how to mate it
with the "reverse Y" female plug?

The 220 volt cord in the lazarette is not very long. I already have
one 50' 110v Marinco cord. It seems to make sense to just buy
another matching cord and connect the "reverse y" closer to the boat
or even in the lazarette with two 110 cords. Does anyone have any
advice on this?

I've been told that ABYC standards require a breaker within just a
few feet of where AC power enters the boat. Mine doesn't go through
a breaker until it gets to the GFI breaker in my galley panel. Any
thoughts on this?

Thanks, Bob "Hanalei"

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite1212
<no_reply@y...> wrote:
the amel plug has 3 wires a green and yellow and two hot 110 volt
wires. The usa side has a green, white, black and red.
when you connect the amel to the 220 volt 50 amp twistlock you do
not use the usa side white. the green and yellow goes to the usa
green
the other 2 amel wires go to the red and the black.
AGAIN do not use the us white (neutral side).
I have had no problem connecting in the virgin islands and in the
USA. I leave the 50 amp twistlock connected to my boat and use a
number of adapter cords that i have made to connect elsewhere.
Fair winds,
eric Freedman
Kimberlite sm 376

when you connect this to a twist --- In
amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "edmund_steele"
<edmundsteele@e...>
wrote:
Walter,
If the marina you are planning on visiting can handle the depth
and
length of an Amel, they will most probably supply 50 Ampere /
220Volt
power. The supply outlet may in the form of a single twist lock
plug.
The plug contains 4 connectors which are both phases of 110
volts,
a
common and a ground wire. Many boaters (the majority are power
boaters) in the USA will then use a "splitter" to separate this
supply into two 110 volt cables which are then plugged into
their
vessels as two separate cables. For the Amel, we simply plug the
single 220V cable directly into the boat.
Some marinas supply two 110 volt twist lock plugs on a post.
These
outlets are of opposite phase so they can be combined to produce
a
220 volt supply. This is the inverse of the "splitter" mentioned
above and can be purchased from WestMarine (www.westmarine.com).
WestMarine call this a "Reverse Y Adapter" Model 491985 and it
sells
for US$409.99

I have only once had to use a transformer to get 220V from 110V
and
that was because I did not have a 220V extension cord at the
time.
This approach is also very limiting as you probably won't be
able
to
take enough power off the 110 volt supply to run air-
conditioners
without throwing it's breaker.

BTW, anything that has 220V on it tends to cost a fortune in the
USA.
For example, a 50 foot 110 volt extension cord may sell for
US$40
but
a 50 foot 220 volt extension cord may cost near US$600. If you
are
not
afraid of using a screwdriver, you can cut the plugs off a 110
volt
extension cord and replace the plugs with 220 volt plugs.
Ed Steele
DoodleBug SM331




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